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General
General Information
Information
Table of Contents
General .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 4
Commitment ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
Definitions ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5
Abbreviations .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6
Chemical Restrictions – Production .................................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
Chemical Restrictions – Products ...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6
H&M Group – Additional Requirements ........................................................................................................................................................................................... 7
Additional Requirements – Cosmetic Accessories .......................................................................................................................................................................... 10
Additional Requirements – Carpets and Mats (all materials) ......................................................................................................................................................... 11
More Information and Guidelines ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 11
Annex 1. ANTIMONY CONTENT (TOTAL) IN POLYESTER TEXTILES .................................................................................................................................................. 12
Annex 2. BIOCIDAL COMPOUNDS AND BIOCIDAL CLAIMS.............................................................................................................................................................. 13
Annex 3. BISPHENOL A (BPA) .......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 14
Annex 4. CHLORINATED BLEACHING AGENTS ................................................................................................................................................................................. 15
Annex 5. CHROMIUM CONTENT (TOTAL) IN TEXTILE MATERIALS .................................................................................................................................................. 16
Annex 6. CHROMIUM-FREE TANNED LEATHER ............................................................................................................................................................................... 17
Annex 7. DIMETHYLFORMAMIDE (DMFa) ....................................................................................................................................................................................... 18
Annex 8. FLAME RETARDANTS ........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 19
Annex 9. NANOMATERIALS ............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 20
Annex 10. REACH SVHC ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 21
Annex 11. PERFLUORINATED COMPOUNDS (PFC/PFAS) ................................................................................................................................................................ 22
General Information
H&M Group Chemical Restrictions – Textile products | Accessories | Footwear, Bags and Belts
Valid for all brands in H&M Group GPCD-000072
General
H&M Group Chemical Restrictions consists of 12 parts:
i. Aerosol Dispensers
ii. Textile products, Accessories, Footwear, Bags and Belts
iii. Candles
iv. Chemical Products
v. Cosmetic Products
vi. Electrical and Electronic Products and Batteries
vii. Food Contact Products
viii. Furniture
ix. Hardline
x. Medical Devices
xi. Non-Commercial Goods (NCG), Construction and Packaging
xii. Toys
For 2020, H&M Group has aligned relevant chemical restrictions with the industry: The Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL) with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous
Chemicals Manufacturing Restricted Substance List 2.0 (ZDHC MRSL 2.0) and the Restricted Substances List (RSL) for Textile products, Accessories, Footwear, Bags and Belts
with Apparel and Footwear RSL Management Group’s Restricted Substances List (AFIRM RSL). Both are linked to in this document and form the basis of H&M Group Chemical
Restrictions for Textile products, Accessories, Footwear, Bags and Belts. The scope of the product requirements remains the same as that of the earlier document H&M Group
Chemical Restrictions for Apparel, Accessories, Footwear and Home Interior Textile Products. The ZDHC MRSL is valid for Textile and Leather supply chains. For other supply
chains the ZDHC MRSL is only a point of reference.
In addition to the restrictions in MRSL and RSL, H&M Group has strategically phased out, and/or will phase out, some specific chemical substances and/or material groups
relevant for these supply chains in the near future. These additional chemical requirements have been included in Table 1 in this document.
Other, product specific, additional requirements can be found in Table 2 and Table 3.
H&M Group will also follow the ZDHC Chemical Management System when released in 2020. The intention with this alignment is to make it easier for our supply chain and
to collaborate with the industry to achieve our goal of toxic free fashion. Please find out more about H&M Group Chemical Management here.
Please note: If other requirements than those listed in H&M Group Chemical Restrictions are specified for the same substances and product groups in ZDHC MRSL or
AFIRM RSL, the requirements specified in H&M Group Chemical Restrictions takes precedence.
Commitment
By accepting H&M Group Standard Purchase Conditions, the Supplier commits to comply with H&M Group Chemical Restrictions. The Supplier is responsible to assure
compliance and to inform all their upstream suppliers and subcontractors about its content.
By accepting H&M Group Standard Purchase Conditions, each Supplier acknowledges that H&M Group reserves the right to:
Inspect and test any product, any part of production and/or packaging, by any listed or appropriate method, at any time or at any stage of production.
Cancel the Order, or, if the products are already delivered, return the products to the Supplier if the product, production and/or packaging do not correspond to the
H&M Group Chemical Restrictions.
Hold the Supplier responsible for any damage caused by the ordered product if the product, production and/or packaging do not correspond to the H&M Group
Chemical Restrictions.
Receive Safety Data Sheets (SDS) for all substances and preparations (dyes, colorants, solvents, chemicals, etc.) used in the production of a specific Order.
Request the Supplier to change substances and preparations (dyes, colorants, solvents, chemicals, etc.) used in the production to comply with H&M Group Chemical
Restrictions.
In the case of contradictory test results, H&M Group’s test results will prevail.
Definitions
Concentration Limit The substance must not be present in the product at concentrations above this limit.
Not Detected The substance must not be present in the finished product at concentrations above the analytical reporting limit.
Usage ban The substance must not be used in production and it must not be added to the product 1.
Homogeneous Uniform composition throughout, i.e. a material that cannot be mechanically disjointed into different materials.
Reporting limit Describes the level of detection times a safety factor selected by the laboratory that ensures repeatability and
reproducibility.
Self-declaration All chemicals used should have Safety Data Sheets (SDS) showing that no restricted substance is included.
1 Impurities at low concentrations of these substances may be accepted only if technically unavoidable due to e.g. raw materials, formation in the manufacturing process, storage or packaging.
Upon request, the supplier must be able to present the SDS for the chemicals used in the production of the requested
product. Other supporting documents, such as certificates from subcontractors, etc., can also be considered as a part
of the SDS.
Substances defined as hazardous due to Persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT), very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB), carcinogenic, mutagenic
intrinsic properties and toxic for reproduction (CMR), endocrine disruptors (ED) or equivalent concern.
Abbreviations
CAS no Chemical Abstracts Service number, an identification number for chemicals in this database.
CI no Color Index number
cl Centilong
cSt Centistokes, which is the same as 1mm2/s. This is the unit used for kinematic viscosity.
MRSL Manufacturing Restricted Substances List
ppm Parts per million, which is the same as mg/kg.
Percentage Percentage is weight by weight, % w/w
REACH Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals
SVHC Substances of Very High Concern
For products: Restriction limit for total content 1 For total content: Test according to method
Bisphenol A restriction for plastic materials 80-05-7 ppm. Extractable limit for polycarbonate (PC) 1 specified in AFIRM RSL. For extractable (PC): 0.1 ppm
ppm. Extraction with artificial sweat solution ISO
105 E04 and LC-MS analysis.
In production process: General usage ban.
Chlorinated bleaching agents - Finishing treatments with chlorinated bleaching Input control -
agents can only be used in denim production.
Chromium (Cr), total amount, in textile materials EN 16711-1, microwave digestion followed
7440-47-3 For products: Restriction limit 100 ppm. 1 ppm
(except polyamide and polyester) by ICP determination.
For products for children aged 0-3 years (i.e. ≤ 98
Chromium-free tanned leather, chromium VI (CrVI) 18540-29-9 According to AFIRM RSL.
cl): 0.5 ppm.
For products and in production process: General
Dimethylformamide (DMFa) in polyurethane 68-12-2 usage ban and by 2020, Phase Out DMFa in According to AFIRM RSL.
polyurethane production.
Flame retardants
All flame retardants Various Usage ban Input control
Flame retardants in AFIRM RSL Product testing according to methods
Various Not detected
specified in AFIRM RSL
Tri-o-cresyl phosphate 78-30-8 5 ppm
Toluene extraction and GC-MS analysis
Triphenyl phosphate (TPhP) 115-86-6 Not detected
Tris(1-chloro-2-propyl)phosphate (TCPP) 13674-84-5 THF/ACN extraction and LC-MS analysis
Nanomaterials Various For products: General usage ban. Input control -
Perfluorinated compounds in AFIRM RSL Not detected Product testing according to methods 1 μg/m2
specified in AFIRM RSL
Perfluorobutane Sulfonate (PFBS) 29420-49-3
Perfluorohexane Sulfonate (PFHxS) 3871-99-6
Perfluoroheptane Sulfonate (PFHpS) 375-92-8
Perfluorodecane Sulfonate (PFDS) 126105-34-8
For FTOHs:
Perfluorobutane Acid (PFBA) 375-22-4 Solvent extraction according to CEN/TS
Perfluoropentane Acid (PFPA) 2706-90-3 15968 and analysis by Gas Chromatograph For FTOHs:
For products and in production process: Not Mass Spectrometer (GC-MS-MS) 10 μg/m2
Perfluorohexane Acid (PFHxA) 307-24-4 For Others:
detected. 3 For Others:
Perfluoroheptane Acid (PFHpA) 375-85-9 CEN/TS 15968 1 μg/m2
Solvent extraction and analysis by Liquid
Perfluorononane Acid (PFNA) 375-95-1 Chromatograph Tandem Mass Spectrometer
Perfluorodecane Acid (PFDA) 335-76-2 (LC-MS-MS)
2 European commission recommendation on the definition of nanomaterial (2011/696/EU), Official Journal of the European Union, 20.10.2011.
3 Approved water repellent treatments can be found in ZDHC Gateway, using H&M brand filter.
4
See listed substances in AFIRM RSL Appendix A. The area-based limit for PFOA will be superseded by Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1000 and removed in 2023.
5 Upper, should follow restrictions per material. For decorations where glue is separate, the glue must comply with H&M group Chemical Restrictions Chemical Products.
Supporting material for H&M Group – Additional Requirements (Table 1) is found in annexes to this document. H&M Group specific test guidelines are found in H&M Group
Chemical Testing Guideline.
Background
Antimony is used in polyester synthesis process as a polymer catalyst. Antimony is a half-heavy metal element, it can be present as a pure metal, as non-metal or as antimony
compounds, e.g., salts. It may also be found in flame retardants, pigments and dyes and metal alloys and coatings. Legislation in major markets around the world restricts the
presence of heavy metals in finished products since these substances are associated with environmental and human toxicity characteristics.
Background
“The Biocidal Products Regulation (BPR, Regulation (EU) 528/2012) concerns the placing on the market and use of biocidal products, which are used to protect humans,
animals, materials or articles against harmful organisms like pests or bacteria, by the action of the active substances contained in the biocidal product.” 6 Excerpt from BPR
(Regulation (EU) 528/2012), article 3, section 1 (a):
“‘biocidal product’ means
— any substance or mixture, in the form in which it is supplied to the user, consisting of, containing or generating one or more active substances, with the intention of
destroying, deterring, rendering harmless, preventing the action of, or otherwise exerting a controlling effect on, any harmful organism by any means other than mere physical
or mechanical action,
— any substance or mixture, generated from substances or mixtures which do not themselves fall under the first indent, to be used with the intention of destroying, deterring,
rendering harmless, preventing the action of, or otherwise exerting a controlling effect on, any harmful organism by any means other than mere physical or mechanical action.
A treated article that has a primary biocidal function shall be considered a biocidal product.”
The inherent effect of biocidal substances is associated with severe environmental and health hazards, but there is also growing evidence that an increased use of certain
biocidal substances may lead to increased resistance to antibiotics among microorganisms. Due to the associated increased risks for our customers and the environmental
impact (since most of the biocidal substance has been shown to be rinsed out into the effluents), H&M Group does not allow biocide-treated articles in its assortment of
textile products, accessories, footwear, bags and belts.
6
https://echa.europa.eu/regulations/biocidal-products-regulation/understanding-bpr
Background
BPA is used as a key building block in the production of epoxy resins, glues and polycarbonate (PC) plastics. It can also be used in production of flame retardants (e.g. TBBPA)
as well as in production and processing of some plastic materials, for example PVC, PP, PE, etc. It can be used as an antioxidant or UV-stabilizer in various plastic materials.
Examples of plastic materials and resins containing BPA:
It may also be found as a contaminant in synthetic textile materials like polyester and polyester blends. It can also be found in recycled materials, for example recycled paper
and plastic materials.
BPA is a substance with well-known hormone disrupting properties. It will be classified as a Substance of Very High Concern (SVHC) and included on the Candidate list as being
toxic for reproduction and having endocrine disrupting properties for humans and for the environment. Unreacted monomers of BPA can migrate out of product. More
information can be found in AFIRM’s Chemical Information Sheet for Bisphenol A 7
7
https://www.afirm-group.com/chemical-information-sheets/
Input control – check SDS on all chemical products used for H&M Group products. This is secured through checking of Chemical Inventory List (CIL) through incoming chemical
tool (BVE3). Use only compliant chemical products. Chlorinated bleaching agents also have a strong smell and therefore they can easily be distinguished in a factory tour. For
denim production: Appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) must be available and used. PPE can include for example gloves, safety eyewear and respirator mask.
More information about PPE can be found in ZDHC Chemical Management System (CMS).
Background
H&M Group has restricted the use of chlorinated bleaching agents mainly from a worker’s health perspective to avoid unnecessary use and exposure.
Input control – check SDS on all chemical products used for H&M Group products. This is secured through checking the Chemical Inventory List (CIL) through incoming chemical
tool (BVE3). Use only compliant chemical products.
Background
Chromium is a metal element that can be present as a pure metal or as chromium compounds, e.g. salts. Chromium may be found in metal-complex and acid dyes, used as
dyeing additives; dye-fixing agents; colour-fastness aftertreatments; dyes for wool, silk, and polyamide (especially dark shades).
H&M Group has restricted the use of mordant and metal-complex dyes out of environmental concern.
H&M Group has decided to use only chromium-free tanned leather 8 originating from more sustainable sources by 2025. In addition to restriction in AFIRM RSL, the following
applies during the phase-out period:
Background
Exposure to hexavalent chromium (Cr VI) has been linked to many health problems in humans. Acute and long-term exposure to Cr VI has been linked to allergic skin reactions,
gastrointestinal and respiratory issues, and damage to the male reproductive system. Cr VI is considered a carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer
(IARC).
Cr VI itself is not used in the leather tanning process but can be formed from the commonly used trivalent chromium (Cr III). Cr III salts are not considered to be harmful when
in leather. However, Cr III can under certain production and storage conditions transform to Cr VI.
Our quality management organization ensures safe levels of Cr VI in our products. However, due to the chemical nature of chromium and the transformation that can occur,
we cannot guarantee compliant levels throughout a product’s life cycle. More information can be found in AFIRM’s Chemical Information Sheet for Chromium VI. 9
8
As defined in EN 15987, a leather containing <1000 ppm is considered as chromium free tanned leather. The standard ISO 17072-2 is applicable to determine chromium in chromium free
tanned leathers.
9
http://www.afirm-group.com/chemical-information-sheets/
In production:
H&M Group has a strategy to phase out DMFa by June 2020 (Season 2). Solvent based polyurethane (PU) shall be exchanged to better or sustainable PU.
For PU product:
Input control – check SDS on all chemical products used for H&M Group products. This is secured through checking the Chemical Inventory List through incoming chemical
tool (BVE3). Use only compliant chemical products. If a material or product is assessed to have an increased risk of DMFa, test according to method specified in the AFIRM
RSL.
Background
DMFa is a Substance of Very High Concern (SVHC) classified as toxic to reproduction (Reproductive toxic Cat 1B per EU 1272 / 2008 EC). It is a solvent used in plastics, glue,
rubber and in the production of polyurethane (PU) coated materials, such as synthetic leathers. Water-based PU does not contain DMFa and is therefore preferable. However,
DMFa could be present as contaminant in water-based PU. DMFa is also included in the MRSL 2:0 candidate list (https://mrsl.roadmaptozero.com/?guidance=1). The
Candidate List is a list of substances that will be included in the coming versions of the ZDHC MRSL. More information can be found in AFIRM’s Chemical Information Sheet
for Solvents/Residuals. 10
10
http://www.afirm-group.com/chemical-information-sheets/
Background
Flame retardants are substances added to materials to decrease their inherent flammability. There is increasing regulatory activity around the world concerning flame
retardants. Many flame retardants are associated with severe environmental and health hazards.
Annex 9. NANOMATERIALS
Input control – check SDS on all chemical products used for H&M Group products. This is secured through checking the Chemical Inventory List (CIL) through incoming chemical
tool (BVE3). Use only compliant chemical products.
Background
“‘Nanomaterial’ means a natural, incidental or manufactured material containing particles, in an unbound state or as an aggregate or as an agglomerate and where, for 50%
or more of the particles in the number size distribution, one or more external dimensions is in the size range 1 nm-100 nm. “ 11
“Due to the increased specific surface area by volume, nanomaterials may have different characteristics compared to the same material without nanoscale features.
Therefore, the physico-chemical properties of nanomaterials may differ from those of the bulk substances or particles of a larger size.
Nanotechnology is rapidly expanding. A large number of products containing nanomaterials are already on the European market (e.g. batteries, coatings, anti-bacterial
clothing, cosmetics and food products). Nanomaterials offer technical and commercial opportunities but may pose risks to the environment and raise health and safety
concerns for humans and animals.” 12
11 European commission recommendation on the definition of nanomaterial (2011/696/EU), Official Journal of the European Union, 20.10.2011
12 https://echa.europa.eu/regulations/nanomaterials
Input control – check SDS on all chemical products used for H&M Group products. This is secured through checking the Chemical Inventory List through incoming chemical
tool (BVE3). Use only compliant chemical products.
Product compliance – Product testing according to assessed risk for specific material and product using applicable test method in H&M Group Chemical Restrictions. Many
third-party labs also offer screening for all SVHC in final products.
Background
SVHC are identified in REACH, which calls for the progressive substitution of the most potentially dangerous chemicals (referred to as “SVHC”) when suitable alternatives have
been identified. REACH is the Regulation for Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals. It entered into force on 01 June 2007 to streamline and
improve the former legislative framework on chemicals of the European Union (EU).
Substances that are included in the Candidate List have been identified as Substances of Very High Concern. Substances on the Candidate List may subsequently become
subject to authorisation by decision of the European Commission.
According to Article 57 of the REACH Regulation, Substances with the following hazard properties may be identified as SVHCs:
• Substances meeting the criteria for classification as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic for reproduction (CMR) category 1A or 1B in accordance with the CLP Regulation.
• Substances which are persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic (PBT) or very persistent and very bioaccumulative (vPvB) according to REACH Annex XIII.
• Substances on a case-by-case basis, that cause an equivalent level of concern as CMR or PBT/vPvB substances, e.g. endocrine disruptive properties.
13 Approved water repellent treatments can be found in ZDHC Gateway, using H&M brand filter.
Input control – check SDS on all chemical products used for H&M Group products. This is secured through checking the Chemical Inventory List through incoming chemical
tool (BVE3). Use only compliant chemical products.
Background
PFC/PFAS are inherently stable compounds and therefore not readily degradable. Many are known to be highly persistent and have high bioaccumulation potential and some
are also known to have detrimental effects on both environment and human health.
Some PFC/PFAS are included in the ZDHC MRSL (only a few in the present version, but more substances are on the MRSL candidate list 14).
14
https://mrsl.roadmaptozero.com/?guidance=1
Input control – check SDS on all chemical products used for H&M Group products. This is secured through checking of Chemical Inventory List (CIL) through incoming chemical
tool (BVE3). Use only compliant chemical products.
Background
Dioxins are unintentionally but unavoidably produced during the manufacture and burning of materials containing chlorine. Dioxins are classified as toxic and have
carcinogenic properties. It is also very toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effect. PVC and similar chlorinated polymers (i.e. polyvinylchloride and polychloroprene) are plastics
that can be soft or hard, transparent or coloured. PVC is often plasticized with substances like phthalates (also restricted substances).
Definitions
Mechanically recycled materials have been torn apart using machines. For synthetic materials the re-manufacturing can involve a heating process. Recycled material is both
pre- and post-consumer waste defined as follows:
• Pre-consumer waste/material: Material diverted from the waste stream during the manufacturing process, e.g. cutting waste, rejected yarn / fabric lots / dye lots,
defect or rejected garments etc. Excluded is the reutilization of materials such as rework, regrind or scrap generated in a process and capable to being reclaimed
within the same process.
15
Find detailed information on: INSIDE/Our company/Sustainability/Guidelines/Sustainable materials and processes/Material and process manuals/ Recycled Materials Verification Manual
16
See listed substances in AFIRM RSL Appendix A. The area-based limit for PFOA will be superseded by Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1000 and removed in 2023.
• Post‐consumer waste/material: Material generated by households or by commercial, industrial, and institutional facilities in their role as end‐users of the product
that can no longer be used for its intended purpose. This includes returns of materials from the distribution chain.
Remade material is textile/waste, old garments and/or other products, both pre- and post-consumer waste. It’s made into new designed products e.g. patchwork blankets.
Background
The fashion industry weighs heavy on natural resources, which is one reason H&M Group has set up clear goals going ahead: our mission is to only use recycled or other
sustainably sourced materials by 2030. The H&M approach for using recycled materials in our garments is based on precaution and aims to avoid recirculation of hazardous
chemicals. To ensure customer safety, workers’ health and environmentally sound materials in all aspects, both short-term and long-term strategies are required for hazardous
substances in recycled fibre materials. The H&M objectives regarding hazardous chemicals in recycled materials are:
• Consumer products should comply with the same chemical requirements regardless of their recycled content. Any exceptions to this will be justified and transparently
communicated.
• We have a monitoring program for hazardous chemicals in secondary raw materials as well as in final products containing recycled materials. Based on test data, we
constantly work on developing and improving our approach on securing chemicals in recycled materials.
• Dilution by mixing materials with a high content of hazardous chemicals with other materials with lower/no hazardous chemicals should be avoided.
• The process of recycling should not contribute to releases of hazardous chemicals. All recycling processes including any chemical decontamination in secondary raw
materials are evaluated in this respect and hazardous releases will be eliminated or safely destroyed.
• We are transparent and share best practice regarding how we work to secure that garments containing recycled materials meets our requirements.
• We support regulation that enables safe recycling.