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Banggood 3018 3 Axis Mini Cnc Router Build,

test & Review


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Banggood 3018 Mini Cnc Router Kit

grblControl

easel

flatcam

Improved collet for the 3018 CNC


ER11A collet holder and 1-7mm collets (Banggood)

ER11A collet set (Ebay US)


ER11A Collet set (Ebay UK)
ER11A collet set (Ebay DE)

The ER11A extension holder fits the 5mm motor shaft. The fit is quite tight see below.

To fit the ER11A, I wrapped the spindle motor in a plastic bag  and put it in a freezer over night. I then heated
up the collet in an oven at about 200 degrees centigrade for approximately 20 minutes. Then using heatproof
gloves and a wooden block I tapped the ER11A extension holder onto the motor shaft.

Bits used
End mills 1- 3mm (Banggood)
PCB mill set  https://ebay.to/2BUIHu8  (Ebay UK)
Bottom cleaning bit 22mm ( use for surface levelling with a 6mm collet )

How to change Axis that are inverted  –  Grbl 0.9

https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.9#grbls-xval-settings-and-what-they-mean

$3 – Direction port invert mask:binary

This setting inverts the direction signal for each axis. By default, Grbl assumes that the axes move in a positive
direction when the direction pin signal is low, and a negative direction when the pin is high. Often, axes don’t
move this way with some machines. This setting will invert the direction pin signal for those axes that move
the opposite way.

This invert mask setting works exactly like the step port invert mask and stores which axes to invert as bit
flags. To configure this setting, you simply need to send the value for the axes you want to invert. Use the table
above. For example, if want to invert the Y axis direction only, you’d send $3=2 to Grbl and the setting should
now read $3=2 (dir port invert mask:00000010)
Example: send $3=5 from the command console to invert the x and z axis.

Wiring limit switches


https://github.com/gnea/grbl/wiki/Wiring-Limit-Switches

On the Developower 2.0 board shown in the video Xend, Yend and Zend are all connected to ground.

Z- and Z+ are connected to D12

Y- and Y+ are connected to D10

X- and X+ are connected to D9

GRBL Arduino pinout


https://github.com/gnea/grbl/wiki/Connecting-Grbl

Power Faults with the Developower 2.0 pcb

The red led shown above indicates that the power supply regulation on the pcb is operating.

Check the output voltage from the external power supply. The power supply that I received had a 24 volt dc
output.

The power supply for the Arduino pro mini that runs GRBL is independent from the main power supply on the
pcb. It is supplied by the usb connection from the computer. This means that if it is plugged into the computer,
it will be able to communicate and appear to be operating normally.

Using the wrong version of grblcontrol for the version of grbl installed
The version of grblcontrol that I have listed above works with grbl version 0.9. Other versions of the
grblcontrol are designed to operate with grbl 1.1 or above and are NOT compatible with earlier versions.

Consumer rights
In the UK, purchasing items with a credit card, gives you legal rights in the event that something goes wrong.
When you purchase items with Paypal you do not have the same legal rights, but Paypal do have their
own buyer protection scheme.
In either case it is important to understand your rights and to report any problems to your credit card company
or Paypal quickly. Please don’t wait weeks or months for the supplier to provide a solution or send a
replacement.
https://www.moneysavingexpert.com/credit-cards/PayPal-Section75/
How to track Banggood European Direct Mail
http://www.flytexpress.com/En/Home/LogisticsTracking
Enter the tracking code from Banggood into the list.
Click on the verification code image to change it, enter the verification code and then submit. The result should
have some detail and a new tracking code starting with A.
Enter this new tracking code again to get further details.

Alternative tracking   https://www.17track.net/en

This entry was posted in Cnc & Laser, Reviews on February 23, 2019.


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Wiring Limit Switches


James Hodgkinson edited this page on May 25 · 17 revisions

The limit switches are used to detect the physical limits of the working area and to
position the head in initial position during the homing process. Properly connected limit
switches can increase significantly the reliability of the GRBL - the microcontroller pins
connected to the switches are very vulnerable to any noise.

Before starting, make sure your coordinate frame is setup properly on your CNC
machine and satisfies the right-hand rule. If you're not sure, its explained in the quick
setup guide here. Otherwise, you will likely encounter problems with the homing cycle,
where it behaves strangely. If you are having issues with the homing cycle, read
this FAQ.

There are two types of end switches wiring:

 Normally Opened end switches (NO) - switches are connected in parallel, if the
head hits one of the switches the resistance becomes low (<10 Ohm). The wiring is
simple but there is no indication if one of the switches is disconnected (broken
wire).

 Normally Closed end switches (NC) - switches are connected in serial, if the head
hits one of the switches the resistance become high (> 1 MOhm). The wiring is
more complicated but if any of the switches is disconnected (broken wire) this will
be immediately detected. This is the way how all professional CNC machines end
switches were wired.

The easiest way to attach limit switches to Arduino UNO is to just connect the switches
to the corresponding pins and to rely on the internal weak pull up resistors (~47K) of
the ATMega328 chip. The Normal connected (NC) switch wiring is shown below:
The Normal Open (NO) switch wiring is shown below:
One improvement is to connect 1K to 4.7K pull up resistors to 5V and 100nF capacitors
to GND. The extra pull ups and capacitors have noticeable noise suppression effect over
the GRBL performance.
Adding shielded cables to the end sensors or at least using twisted pair of two wires
reduces further the noises injected from the next door stepper motor cables.

The ultimate solution for noise filtering on end switches is to add optocouplers - they
have many benefits compared to the listed above solutions:

 There is no direct galvanic connection between the end sensor and the
microcontroller pin - any ESD discharges will not affect the GRBL controller
 Optocouplers are inert elements - short glitches will simply not pass at all
 Optocouplers are current driven elements and they require huge energy from the
noises in order to pass - in normal operating conditions they effectively cut all the
noises

During the discussion on GRBL forum we came to the following design of GRBL limit
switch end sensor break out board - see the images below. The board is single side PCB
(1.0mm to 1.6mm FR4) and uses connector with screws for attaching the end sensor
wires. We recommend to use crimping of the wires before inserting them into the
connectors.

The schematic of the end sensor board which uses optocouplers

The LIMIT SWITCH side and the ARDUINO side should use 2 different isolated power
supply to take real advantage of the opto isolation.
BEST 
OK 
The BOM file of used components and the estimated price of the
board 
The 3D view of the board - this is how it will look like after
assembly. 
The bottom copper layer (viewed from top side of the
board) 
The top silkscreen layer (viewed from top side of the
board) 
The bottom solder resist layer (viewed from top side of the
board) 

The DXF file of the copper layer (view from bottom - ready for milling) GRBL.DXF.V2.zip

The GCode generated in CopperCam for milling the board - by having some CNC and
engraving bit it's possible to mill the board from FR4.

Simple.GRBL.zip
The gerber files and the NC drill files for producing properly the PCB (you can send
these files to any PCB factory to get good quality boards).

Gerbers.zip

The schematic/BOM/PCBs and other layer images as single PDF for convenient
documentation

End.switches.break.out.board.pdf

For Woodpecker PCB the wiring of end switches should be done in the following way:
for Woodpecker PCB v3.4 (the black one) : Silkscreen labels for X and Z limit switches on
newly released (actually january 2020)Woodpecker 3.4 CNC control board appear to be
wrong ( reversed )

You can use some cable housing and crimp the wires to get more professional look
(these housing connectors will fit straight into the board header)

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/2226a-02/crimp-housing-1-row-2-way/dp/1593506

Normally-Closed (NC) vs Normally-Open


(NO) switches
This is the way how all professional CNC machines end switches were wired.

Here's why:

Use NC switches. Because whenever switches fail, the failure mode is ALWAYS "open" or
"fails to make contact". Simple fact of nature, it's just the way things are.

Assuming a NO switch is used..... While homing in on a defective switch, you will not
know that the switch is malfunctioning, not until after you have crashed your machine. If
the switch fails to make contact then the machine crashes.

Assuming a NC switch is used..... If the switch is bad (in this case the contacts will be
open), then no homing occurs, GRBL will return an error and homing does not proceed,
and your machine doesn't crash.

So it does make a BIG difference which switch contact configuration you use for limit
switches, NC or NO. Crash or no crash.

Capacitors for noise filtering


Even if you do use NC contacts, you still need those 104 (0.1uF) capacitors, as close to
the Arduino as you can place them. You can argue all day that those caps won't make a
difference since the caps are shorted out by the switches. The explanation for this
phenomenon is quite long but the first power line glitch will convince you otherwise.
(Plug in your blender next to the CNC's AC plug and turn it on. Your CNC should still
behave normally despite the blender.)

Side benefit: With NC switches, the connection is broken cleanly when you hit home
position, therefore no contact bounce occurs. (Contact bounce occurs only during
switch closure, NOT during switch opening.)

 Pages 14

 Home
 Compiling Grbl
 Connecting Grbl
 Flashing Grbl to an Arduino
 Frequently Asked Questions
 Grbl v1.1 Commands
 Grbl v1.1 Configuration
 Grbl v1.1 Interface
 Grbl v1.1 Jogging
 Grbl v1.1 Laser Mode
 Known Issues
 Set up the Homing Cycle
 Using Grbl
 Wiring Limit Switches

Clone this wiki locally

https://githu

 © 2020 GitHub, Inc.


 Terms
 Privacy
 Security
 Status
 Help

 Contact GitHub
 Pricing
 API
 Training
 Blog
 About

Connecting Grbl
Friedemann Stoffregen edited this page on Mar 7, 2019 · 4 revisions

This wiki is intended to provide various instructions on how to connect to grbl in various
ways. Please feel free to contribute more up-to-date or alternative methods.

Grbl's Pins
For Grbl v0.9 and v1.1+ default builds: (NOTE: Z-limit is on D12 and the spindle
enable pin uses the hardware PWM on D11.)
For Grbl v0.8 and v0.9+ with variable spindle disabled, Z-limit moves to D11 and
spindle enable to D12. This is generally for backward compatibility on older
boards.

For Laser mode, the pin used is the same as Spindle (PIN 11).

First, to connect your stepper motors to Grbl, you'll need some stepper motor drivers to
power the steppers and connect your driver inputs to the Arduino controller pins. There
are a number of drivers that can do this, available as fully pre-built, partially pre-built, or
completely DIY. There are some examples farther down the page. The stepper drivers
will need to share the stepper enable pin (D8) to their respective enable pins, while the
direction and step pulse pins (D2-D7) will need to be connected to their respective pins
on the drivers. Just make sure that all of your drivers and the Arduino share a common
ground (star grounded with your motor driver power). This is about all you'll need to get
started.

Afterwards, once you decide that you're ready or would like to enable homing and/or
hard limits, you'll need to connect a normally-open limit switch to each of the limit pins
(D9, D10, and D12). Homing and hard limits use the same switches. These limit pins are
already held high with an internal pull-up resistor, so all you have to do is wire them to
ground. So when you close a switch, the switch will pull the limit pin to ground. If you'd
like to have hard limit switches on both ends of travel of an axis, just wire two limit
switches in parallel to the axis limit pin and ground. Make sure you have the switches
installed before attempting to perform a homing cycle, and make sure you practice
good wiring methods to minimize external electric noise on the input pins.

In Grbl v0.8 and later, there are pin-outs of the cycle start, feed hold, and reset runtime
commands, so you can have physical control buttons on your machine. Just like the limit
pins, these pins are held high with an internal pull-up resistor, so all you have to do is
connect a normally-open switch to each pin and to ground. Again make sure you
practice good wiring methods to minimize external electric noise on the input pins.

If you have a desire or need for spindle or coolant control, Grbl will toggle these output
pins (D13, A3) high or low, depending on the G-code commands you send to Grbl. With
v0.9+ and variable spindle PWM enabled, the D11 pin will output a range of voltages
from 0V to 5V depending the spindle speed G-code command. 0V indicates spindle off
in this case. Since these pins are all application dependent in how they are used, we'll
leave it to you to determine how to control and use these for your machine. You can
also hack the spindle and coolant control source files to easily alter how they work and
then compile and upload your modified Grbl through the Arduino IDE.
Method One: EasyDriver V4.4
Last Updated: 2012-01-29 by Atrixium.

This is a fairly straightforward interface for a 3 axis machine.

The 'step signal ground' for each EasyDriver is connected together and tied to the GND
pin of the Arduino. Do not confuse this with the motor ground or any other ground
connection on the EasyDriver!
The 'Step' pin for the X,Y and Z axes is attached to digital pins 2, 3 and 4 respectively.
The 'Dir' pin for the X,Y and Z axes is attached to digital pins 5, 6 and 7 respectively.

Resources

Big Version
Fritzing File
EasyDriver Website

Method Two: grblshield


Last Updated: 2012-02-21 by aldenhart.

grblshield - plugs on to Arduino for 3 axes of motor control - up to 2.5 amps per
winding. Drivers are thermally protected against overcurrent and are therefore

extremely resistant to burnout or failure. 

Method Three: stepper shield


Last Updated: 2012-02-03 by edwardrford.

buildlog.net arduino stepper shield - pololu driver carrier arduino shield for 3 axes of
motor control. Replaceable drivers in case of
damage. 

user guide
Method Four : Arduino CNC Shield or
Raspberry Pi CNC Board/Hat
Last Updated: 2016-06-10 by Protoneer.

Arduino CNC Shield - 3 independent axes and one clone axis.Uses Pololu Stepper
Drivers with all GRBL pins exposed. GRBL 0.9 Compatible. RC filters on end stops and
Probe pins. 

Raspberry Pi CNC board/hat - 3 independent axes + 1 clonable drive and with


removable screw terminals.Uses Pololu Stepper Drivers with all GRBL pins exposed.
GRBL 0.9 Compatible. RC filters on end stops and Probe
pins. 
NOT SUPPORTED: H-bridge drivers.
Some early work on supporting this can be found  here. It is out-dated and uses Grbl v0.7.

Other Resources:

 DANK Last updated 2/2011.


 Connecting Grbl to an H-bridge Driver

 Pages 14

 Home
 Compiling Grbl
 Connecting Grbl
 Flashing Grbl to an Arduino
 Frequently Asked Questions
 Grbl v1.1 Commands
 Grbl v1.1 Configuration
 Grbl v1.1 Interface
 Grbl v1.1 Jogging
 Grbl v1.1 Laser Mode
 Known Issues
 Set up the Homing Cycle
 Using Grbl
 Wiring Limit Switches

Clone this wiki locally

https://githu

 © 2020 GitHub, Inc.


 Terms
 Privacy
 Security
 Status
 Help

 Contact GitHub
 Pricing
 API
 Training
 Blog
 About
 Introduction

 A Z-probe can help workflow when using CNC. It can improve accuracy and

repeatability of operation. An arrangement can be conveniently connected to a

V3 Grbl CNC Shield (0r Arduino directly) with a readily accessible component

purchased online or make one from scratch. This guide concentrates on how to

set up a Z-probe using ready made components although a custom design can

be made using the same principles.


  
 1. Set up the component

 Potentially the most straight forward way to set up a Z probe is to buy one ready

made. Unless something more specific is need for an application the buying one

online form a site such as eBay can be quick and cost effective. Essentially there

are four elements to the arrangement:


 – Flat conductive block of a known height

– Crocodile Clip to connect to the tool

– Female Connectors to connect to the CNC shield

– Wire to join the  components together in a circuit.


 Crimping small connectors can be  problematic, soldering the ends of

preassembled connectors can be much more straightforward to do if specialised

crimping tools are not available.


 Consistently matching colours in the wiring can help track connections when

setting up.
  

  

 2. Attach the wiring to the CNC shield and set up for use

 In this case the tool is connected to ground, this configuration appears to be

more reliable. In theory the arrangement could be reversed.


 Attach the “Red” crocodile clip to the tool and to Ground “GND” on the CNC

Shield. Connect the “Black” flat block to the “SEL” pin on the CNC shield (this is

pin A5 on the Arduino).




 3. Measure the height of the block


 With a caliper measure the height of the block and record the figure to add to a

macro. In this case 19.10mm.


  

  
 5. Write the G Code to position the z Axis

 Write the following command or record as a macro to locate the position of the

work surface.
 G38.2 Z-15 F40
 The G38.2 command will move an axis at a specified speed and stop once

contact has been made between Ground and the SEL pin on the CNC Shield

(Arduino pin A5)


 In this case units are set to metric. The command G38.2 Z-15 F40 will move the

Z Axis a distance of -15mm slowly, at a speed of 40mm a minute until contact is

made to ground SEL (Arduino pin A5).


 6. Test continuity before operation



 Testing the macro by positioning the block away from the work surface to check

that the Z Axis movement will stop once contact is made.


 Before doing this ensure safety precautions are followed.

 Ensure the spindle is turned off.

 Ensure the speed of movement for the Z Axis macro is slow and limited

travel.
 Ensure hands are positioned away from the tool.

  

  
 7. Write the G Code Macro for the Z offset

 Once the operation of the Z Probe has been tested the sequence can be run

again with the block in position on the work surface.


 Write the following command or record as a macro to set the offset for the Z Axis
 G92 Z19.10
 The command G92 Z19.10 will set the “0” position for the Z Axis 19.10mm below

it’s current position.



 Once complete the Z Axis is calibrated for operation.

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