Scraps!

By J&H Aerospace
www.jhaerospace.com

Build Manual
Verify from your kit packet that you have all of the parts and parts sheets listed.

Start by building out the jigs which will assist you in completing this model. You can use CA glue for
these as weight isn’t really a concern.

The dihedral gage on the left has increments of ½ inch and 1 inch. The jig on the right is a pitch gage; pay
close attention to its alignment so that you can ensure correct rotation of the propeller. Don’t build it
backwards!

This is your propeller forming block. Attach the flat side of the curved parts to one of the 1/32” sheet
rectangles, then glue the second one over the curved sides. This gives you a part of a cylinder which will
be used to achieve proper camber of your propeller blades.
Start by removing the propeller blades from their sheet. Wet them out with warm water and lay them
exactly atop each other, then lay them on the forming block exactly as shown in the photo below. They
are angled at roughly 15 degrees. Pay very close attention the direction of the 15 degree angle. If you
get it backwards, you model will not fly! Wrap this assembly tightly with a paper towel, fasten the
paper towel with masking tape (make sure the masking tape doesn’t touch the blades! It will bond to
them permanently!), and place this assembly in an oven (NOT A MICROWAVE!) at 200 degrees
Fahrenheit for 20-30 minutes.

Use your wing forming jig as a guide to cut the 1/32 inch square wing spars to length. The form is the
correct length for them. Don’t cut the spars too short!

Use scotch tape to attach the spars to the wing form. Then add white glue or duco cement to the end of
each rib and insert it between the spars. Take your time to get good alignment.
You may wish to angle the tip rib out slightly so that it doesn’t bow in so much and is aligned vertically
once dihedral is added.

Your finished wing should look like this before removal from the form:

Build your horizontal stab the same way. Note that the plans do not call for a center rib. If, like me, you
don’t use one, be sure to use a pen to mark the center line before removing the stab from its form.
Cut the fin leading and trailing edges a little long and tape them to their form.

Use the leading and trailing edges as guides to cut their top and bottom and then glue them in with
white glue or duco.
Trim the top of the fin, but leave the bottom long so that it will correctly clear the stab, which is
airfoiled.

CAREFULLY remove the tape from the forms and free the flying surfaces. Set them aside somewhere
safe.
These are the parts for your propeller hub. The propeller spars are aligned with the laser cut surfaces
facing the ends of the prop shaft

Make a 90 degree bend in the prop shaft and use CA to glue it to the root (the fat end) of a prop spar as
shown. Make sure the shaft forms a 90 degree angle with the spar.
Glue the other spar to the shaft/spar assembly as shown. I recommend using CA for this step, as the
joint needs to be hard and strong.

Cut a small length of the Teflon tubing and slip it onto the prop shaft as shown. This is a tiny part, so
take your time. You make have to cut several lengths and try several times because the little Teflon bits
tend to get lost easily.
Glue the propeller bearing in place on the motorstick as shown and bind in place with thread. Harden
this all up with a thin coating of CA glue.

Locate the wire rear hook and orient it as shown; notice the up and down orientation here; the prop
bearing should be on the bottom of the motorstick, off to the left of the page per this photo:
Punch the top of the rear hook into the back of the motorstick as shown. Coat the surface with glue and
push it in the rest of the way.
Butt join the tailboom onto the back of the motorstick as shown using CA glue:

Tape the prop shaft into the slot in your pitch gage as shown:
Remove your propeller blades from the forming block and carefully separate them. Use white glue or
duco cement to fasten a blade onto the spar as shown (watch the alignment! It is very important!). The
tiny T mark near the tip of the blade is the alignment point for the end of the propeller spar.
Repeat the above steps to attach the second propeller blade as shown:

Now might be a good time to record the weight of all of the subassemblies. Anything below 400 mg is
excellent.
Assemble your covering frame as shown, making sure that the wing, stab, and rudder will fit within its
bounds.

Carefully lay out the supplied covering on a smooth, clean, dry surface. Searching for internet videos on
covering with OS film might be a good idea. The product page for your kit also has a link for this. Smear
the covering frame with Vaseline. Carefully lay the Vaseline coated side of the frame down on the OS
film. You can now straighten the covering as needed on the frame.
Lightly mist the frames with 3M-77 spray adhesive. DO THIS OUTSIDE. Do not lay the surfaces on some
surface or they will stick to it. You want to hold the surfaces while you spray them. You’ll probably need
to clean your hands with acetone afterwards. Carefully line up the flying surfaces in the arrangement
below. Take your time. It may take a while to get it right. It’s worth the frustration.

Carefully lay the covering frame, film side down, over the flying surfaces. Push the film down against the
flying surfaces with a soft brush. Make sure full contact is achieved everywhere.
Use a cautery or old soldering iron to cut the film around your flying surfaces. Do not use a razor blade
as you will tear the covering.

Crack the wing leading edge and trailing edge at the center rib and set the dihedral. Do this one side at a
time as shown.
Glue the horizontal stab to the top on the tailboom as shown. Leave a little of the tailboom sticking out
behind the stab so the fin has a place to glue to.
Glue the fin to the tailboom as shown, fitting it over the stab.

Cut off two short lengths of the supplied polyimide tubing as shown
Glue on to the front of the wing, aligning it vertically as shown. I use CA glue for this step, and it does
require a small fillet on each side to get the tubing to stay put.

Cut your wing posts to size from the short, hard stick of 1/32” balsa (the one with red ends) using the
plans as a guide. Round off the end of one of the posts and insert it into the tube you’ve attached to the
wing (be mindful of front and back). Turn the wing around and attach the other polyimide tube, using
the post on the other side as a guide to get the tubes parallel.
Your wing should now look like this:

Glue the wing posts to the fuselage as shown. My front wing post was a little too long, so I glued it as
shown and then trimmed it off a little. The wing position shown on the plans will usually make the
model a little nose heavy if you’ve done a good job building the tail. I’ve found about 1.25 inches from
the nose is a good ballpark for the proper CG.
Your wing should be glue on so that the leading edge on the left wing (right side as viewed from the
front) is higher at the tip than the trailing edge. Look carefully at the photo below. This gives you right
aileron trim to counteract the propeller torque.

Insert your propeller into its bearing and your Scraps is done! If it is underweight, add clay to ballast up.
The model should be nose heavy without rubber, around 25% chord for the empty CG. Ballast can be
used to achieve this. I’ve found a 10 inch loop of the supplied rubber gives good flights. Use side thrust
as needed to get a good turn going. Diving can be corrected by bending the tail boom for up elevator
trim.

Enjoy your Scraps and let us know how it flies for you!