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world of denim

References Worldwide Issue 7 www.monforts.com

in Denim Finishing

>Proven success.
The Monforts range combinations for denim finishing are now even more cost-efficient and
eco-friendly: The Monforts ECO Applicator is now used for liquor application.
Drying, stretching and skewing functions for the denim fabric are performed by a modified
Thermex-Thermo-Stretch unit. This configuration allows fabric speeds of up to 40 m/min to
be achieved with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim on the ”single rubber” version.
The ”double rubber” version comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt
calenders in line. Together with the innovative Thermex stretching unit, fabric speeds
of up to 80 m/min can thus be achieved with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim.
On both range versions, the denim fabric is stretched and skewed far more gently
than with conventional range combinations. Ask our denim technologists.
We will be happy to advise you.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG

Germany | A Member of CHTC Fong’s Group

Every year, around 15 billion • Sustainable materials
metres of denim fabrics are • Energy efficiency
produced globally, to go into • Water savings
around 10 billion garments, with • Process engineering
the key manufacturing countries • Certification
being China, Bangladesh, India, • Social responsibility
Pakistan, Mexico and Brazil. • Re-use
Some 66,000 tons of indigo • Collaboration
powder have been needed for this • Co-creation
production, but until recently
hazardous chemicals have been Responsible technology
required to make it water soluble, companies can play an active role
and after dyeing, tons of in all of these areas.
wastewater containing these As our Head of Denim Hans
chemicals have been discharged Wroblowski explains in the
into the environment, often interview starting on page 30 of
without treatment. The denim this issue of Monforts World of
dyeing process has been one of Denim, we have recently been
the major pollution problems enjoying success with our Eco
within the textile industry as the Line concept for denim, which is
demand for denim continues to based on two key technology
grow – each of us already owning advances – the Eco Applicator A. Monforts Textilmaschinen
four or more denim fashion items. and the Thermo Stretch. GmbH & Co. KG
Now, however, things are This is allowing significant Postfach 10 17 01
changing, and Monforts is proud savings to be achieved in water D-41017 Mönchengladbach
to be one of the companies use, energy and raw materials. Blumenberger Straße 143-145
pioneering this change. It’s only the start of what D-41061 Mönchengladbach
Telefon: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-0
One of our customers, Bossa we intend to achieve in the next
Telefax: +49 - (0) - 21 61-401-498
Denim in Turkey, for example, few years. Internet: www.monforts.de
lists the procedures it is adapting eMail: info@monforts.de
aimed at reducing environmental Hans Wroblowski
impact as:

Monforts customers featured in this issue: PUBLISHED BY MONFORTS

Advance Denim, Albiate, Artistic Denim Mills, Artistic Fabric Mills & MARKETING GROUP
Garment Industries, Artistic Milliners, Arvind, Azgard 9, Berto, Black
Peony, Bossa, Çalık, Cone Denim, Crescent Bahuman, DNM, Freedom, Front Cover: ‘Midnight’ from Lenzing’s
Iskur, Kassim, Kilimdenim, Kipas, Kurabo, Naveena, Orta, Prosperity, Refribra fashion collection, with denim
Rajby, Raymond Uco, Santanderina, Soorty, Tusa, Vicuhna, W Denim. manufactured by Spain's Santanderina.

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 3


“This is no longer
the 1950s…”
Hans Gerhard Wroblowski, Head of Denim at Monforts,
outlines new possibilities with the company’s latest
integrated technologies for denim production.

World of Denim: Could you tell In many denim mills globally, and the stretching (to ensure they
us a little bit about what sets the cost of energy for running don’t shrink after washing), and
Monforts machinery apart? integrated manufacturing lines – the drying or light heatsetting, in a
Hans Wroblowski: We specialise especially those for denim fabric continuous one-step process.
in advanced technology for fabric finishing that can involve Arvind, for example, has
finishing based on successive numerous sequences of heating recently installed India’s first
industry developments since our and subsequent drying – is now integrated Monforts Eco Line
foundation in Mönchengladbach eclipsing the cost of paying which is operating alongside four
in Germany (where we are still people to operate them and the of our Montex stenters.
headquartered) back in 1884. ability of the Eco Applicator to
Monforts Montex stenters significantly reduce overall WOD: How has automation
(stretching, drying, heatsetting manufacturing costs has seen it impacted what you’re doing?
and coating systems) are the rapidly accepted on the market. HW: Our evolution in textile
industry standard for the denim As an alternative to conven- engineering and machine building
fabric finishing industry, tional padding – where the denim has progressed through
providing a number of fabrics are immersed in a bath of mechanical, steam and water-
advantages in terms of the required finishing chemicals – powered technologies to the first
production throughput and the Eco Applicator can signifi- mass production lines, electronic
especially in energy efficiency cantly reduce the energy and drives and highly modular
and savings. water required for achieving machines. The move towards the
We have recently been perfect finished denim via a current state of the art initially
enjoying success precise direct application system. involved data transfer and storage
with our Eco Line Finishes can be applied on via internet/intranet, along with
concept for just one side of the fabric, or teleservice solutions, and has
denim, which is both, and even separately been followed by full automation
based on two on each side, or to concepts which assure an overall
key technology specific areas of a fabric, quality control.
advances – the and sealed in place via Now we are truly in the digital
Eco Applicator different heating zones in age, and we are committed to
and the the stenter. This allows investing in the digitization of
Thermo endless differentiation our technology.
Stretch. possibilities.
The ThermoStretch unit WOD: What are some
can then handle the skewing innovations you’re working
(the weft-direction on for the denim market in the
straightening necessary coming year?
to ensure jeans HW: We are already embracing
don’t twist out of many Industry 4.0 principles in
shape when you our approach to new machine
put them on), the concepts and our Qualitex 800
bow correction control system, for example, has

4 | World of Denim | Issue 7


all the intuitive features operators say, Industry 4.0 is driving much of • Arvind and Raymond Uco
will be familiar with from our R&D, in addition to mechanical in India.
touchscreen devices, making and engineering refinements. We • Advance Denim, Black Peony,
navigation extremely easy, will have a considerable presence Freedom and Prosperity
cutting down the time required at ITMA 2019, because it’s the n China.
for becoming familiar with a crucial show for us. • Albiate and Berto in Italy.
new system and allowing • Cone Denim (Mexico), DNM
complete control of all machine WOD: Which mills are (Egypt) and Kurabo (Japan)
parameters. This has a significant you working with? and Vicuhna (Brazil).
impact on productivity, availability HW: We work with the majority of
and in general machine and the mills in Bangladesh, India, WOD: When does a jeans
production efficiency. Mexico, Pakistan and Vietnam, as stop being a jeans?
well as with close partners in HW: It doesn’t have to really, does
WOD: What’s next for Monforts? Europe and the Americas. it? If a pair of denim jeans is
HW: A completely automated Among our customers at the engineered for jogging, say, in the
stentering range requiring no recent Denim PV in London, for so-called ‘athleisure’ trend, then
human operation at all – or only example, were: it’s still a pair of jeans at the end
via a remote link – is within our • Artistic Denim Mills, Artistic of the day, if they can meet the
sights, but there will be other Fabric Mills & Garment performance requirement. Denim
announcements in the first half Industries, Artistic Milliners, fabric doesn’t have to stop being
of 2019. Azgard 9, Crescent Bahuman, denim, with all of the variation in
Kassim, Naveena, Rajby texture and drape that’s possible.
WOD: What are your and Soorty, The latest fashion collections are
plans for ITMA? all of Pakistan. as far removed from the concept
HW: It’s too early for us to • Bossa, Çalık, Kilimdenim, Iskur, of ‘classic denim jeans’ as you
announce our plans for ITMA in Kipas, Orta and W Denim of can get. This is no longer the
Barcelona in June, but suffice to Turkey. 1950s. ●

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 5


Less is a lot more in these eye-

catching denims from Pakistan’s
Rajby Industries. Representatives
from the company has been giving
away plants and promotional
materials made from organic cotton
waste and flowering seeds to
emphasise their sustainable
messages at recent denim trade fairs.

6 | World of Denim | Issue 7


risks as
The eagerness of Monforts denim
Soorty and Naveena predict
the return of 1970s tie-dyeing.

customers to highlight their

developments in respect of eco-
responsibility is certainly reflected
in the denim trends for 2020 and
2021, as identified by Première
Vision’s design team.
Brands are now embracing new call the shots, says Première
body shapes, with models proud Vision fashion product manager
to be different, as Millennials Marina Coutelan.
(those reaching young adulthood “For decades there have
in the early 21st Century) begin to been very narrow standards in

PV fashion product manager Marina Coutelan.

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 7


respect of what is conceived to

be beauty, but that’s
changing,” says Coutelan, “and
there is now in general a
determination to view creative
risks as opportunities across
the industry.”
”There is much use of
recycled cotton evident in the
3D effects and over-stitching from latest denim collections, as well
companies including Advance Denim as recycled polyester and
and Naveena are much in evidence in polyamide, enhanced by new
the latest denim collections. finishes for ever-softer handles,
she adds. The technologies for
manufacturing denim with no
or limited water are advanced
and there are a variety of other
eco-finishing techniques
coming to the fore, as well as
the use of vegetable-based
dyes as alternatives to conven-
tional indigo.”

In terms of structures,
diagonal, open weaves are
common, along with the
use of stripes within the
denim structures, as
exemplified by new collections
from Turkish mills such as
There is much use of open
weaves, as in this shirt
Bossa and Kilimdenim.
from India’s Arvind Mills. 3D effects and composite
materials are also prominent.
Many of the latest denims
have a new lightness and
subtlety, as well as suppleness,
as is evident in the latest
collections from companies
such as China’s Advance Denim
and India’s Raymond Uco.
Manufacturers are emphasising
paleness and clean weaves,
with colour stressed through
over-dyeing and fine overlays.
Stretch fabrics remain as
important as ever to the market,
Assertive paleness features with Turkey’s Çalık Denim,
in new designs from
Turkey’s Orta Onadalu.
among others, emphasising
sculpted garments that allow
free movement yet retain their
shape, and special fibres such
as Cordura and Dyneema being
employed to provide solidity
and strength.
“For women in particular,
the emphasis is very much
on the silhouette,”
Ms Coutelan stresses. ●

8 | World of Denim | Issue 7


Denim and digital

– moving beyond
catwalk concepts
Monforts denim customer Soorty commissioned
the Amsterdam-based digital design studio The
Fabricant for the promotional launch of its Cradle-
to-Cradle-certified Gold Standard denim fabric.
World of Denim | Issue 7 | 9

In 2018, The Fabricant’s DEEP Digital

Fashion Collection saw the first collabora-
tively-designed fashion collection between
a human and a non-human, with Amber-Jae
Slooten and artificial intelligence algorithms
dreaming, learning and creating together.

The Fabricant really made the rating system in the world and a dedicated recycling unit. In
fashion and technology industries globally recognised symbol of respect of the latter, the
sit up and take notice in 2018 with sustainable achievement. company now has the capacity
the DEEP Digital Fashion To achieve Platinum status, 80 to recycle some 2.5 tons of
Collection, devised by its co- of a possible 100 points must be spinning, fabric and garment
founder and creative director, achieved across six credit waste material per day and is
Amber-Jae Slooten. categories – Sustainable Sites, also collaborating with I:Collect
Using artificial intelligence Water Efficiency, Energy and to establish post-consumer
algorithms, the creative Atmosphere, Materials and waste processing.
experiment saw the world’s first Resources, Indoor Environmental Following a systematic
collaboratively-designed fashion Quality and Innovation in Design. expansion programme, the
collection between a human and a Soorty had already established company now has three Monforts
non-human, with Amber a LEED Gold garment manufac- Montex stenters as well as three
essentially asking the computer to turing plant in Bangladesh Monforts sanforizing units. This
dream, learn and create alongside and continues to pioneer brings the company’s finished
her. The resulting surreal digital sustainable developments woven denim capacity to a
collection was exhibited at major across all of its operations. monthly 5.5 million metres.
fashion fairs across Europe last Employing some 22,000 Soorty also recently became
summer and gained further people, Soorty began as a the first company in Pakistan to
attention for The Fabricant at garment making operation in install the new Monforts
Dutch Design Week. 1983 and expanded into denim EcoApplicator with which it has
The Fabricant’s sustainability fabric manufacturing a decade been achieving very substantial
credentials then came into play ago. Its denim mill was first finishing cost savings.
with the commission from expanded in 2009 followed by
Pakistan-based Soorty, which the establishment of a spinning Nothing but data
supplies to global retailers such as mill in 2011. As designers using nothing but
Tommy Hilfiger and C&A. The LEED Gold Bangladesh data to create fashion collections
garment manufacturing and imagery, The Fabricant’s
Leadership operation was established in work exists beyond the current
During 2018, Soorty establishied a 2014, when the company also concepts of catwalks, photo -
new denim garment manufac- opened a development centre graphers, studios and sample
turing plant in Karachi, Pakistan, in Amsterdam. sizes. It was a proposition that
which is LEED Platinum certified. During 2016, a second denim naturally co-existed with
LEED – Leadership in Energy manufacturing plant was opened Soorty’s innovative new Cradle-
and Environmental Design – is the in Karachi, along with an open- to-Cradle certified Gold Standard
most widely used green building end spinning mill and a denim fabric.

10 | World of Denim | Issue 7


Digitisation helps clients to

promote and visualise ideas without
wasting unnecessary resources.

Amber Jae Slooten,

The Fabricant

The 60-second film created by brand by using visual cues from “To me, whenever I create
the Fabricant in response to the natural world, creating an any content, it has to tap into a
Soorty’s brief showcased the appropriate environment for the certain feeling – people
look, texture and movement of digital recreation of the denim to vaguely recognising it or
the new denim while only existing exist. The backdrop also experiencing a certain mood.
in the non-physical digital realm. functions as a means to deliver Next to the emotional value, I
The use of 3D rendering powerful facts on the brand’s am trying to visually tell a story
perfectly complimented Soorty’s anti-waste credentials.  with content that works
mission of reducing fashion’s For Slooten, the key to the graphically and colour-wise
environmental impact via the use concept was visually communi- with each other.“
of sustainable practices. cating the constant C2C cycle. “Digitisation helps clients to
“Cradle to Cradle is a method promote and visualise ideas
that we believe is fair and Endless loop without wasting unnecessary
necessary, and using digital “We tried to visualise an endless resources. 3D visualisation
design tools we were able to looping process,” she says. “Like gives a multitude of
promote this method without the C2C process, the video is possibilities on lighting,
wasting any material but data,” constantly repeating itself but materials and backgrounds.
says Amber Jae Slooten. constantly reinventing too. With the virtual world yet
“What we are trying to tell is a Because of the highly hypnotising unexplored, we have the visual
story of fairness in combination content, the viewer keeps on means that will set brands apart
with technology.” seeing new details. The from the overused film and
The Fabricant created an underlying message of the video photo-shooting techniques. It
abstract landscape alluding to the was a constant loop that tied to will truly take fashion into the
sustainability concerns of the the endless circle of life.“  21st century.” ●

The Fabricant’s 60-second film in

response to Soorty’s brief showcased
the look, texture and movement of the
new denim while only existing in the
non-physical digital realm.

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 11

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 11

Portraits in a
universal fabric
Turkish artist Deniz Sağdiç has been demonstrating her
meticulously-assembled portraits based on repurposed denim
scraps at recent exhibitions, in collaboration with Bossa Denim.

“I started my Ready-Remade colours, tones and textures and When she started her work,
project around four years ago, you can use numerous Deniz was acquiring the fabrics
based on transforming used techniques all together – and clothing from different
objects into works of art,” she stitching, cutting, pasting, lacing, companies and second-hand
explains. “One day I was cutting fraying and engraving.“ shops. Her collaboration with
denim trousers and rearranging Bossa, which has its headquarters
them using this approach and Unique in Adana, began after her work
realised its almost limitless “You see denim on people living was spotted by the company’s
possibilities as a material, as well the furthest from civilisation in the head of marketing Özge Özsoy.
as its conceptual significance. world and those in the most “Bossa is also using its own
Denim has a huge number of sophisticated metropolises, as well waste to create recycled fabrics
as on both people with extremely and is a very environmentally-
limited economic capabilities and friendly company,” says Deniz. “I
those who are extremely rich. believe we are on the same path
Denim has been Denim has been accepted by and Bossa interacts with so many
accepted by everyone in everyone in our world where –
unfortunately – even the colour of
people at the exhibitions it takes
part in and carrying my art to an
our world and in that someone’s skin is a matter for international platform is very
discrimination, and in that sense it important for me.”
sense it is unique. is unique. That’s why I produce
mainly portraits of people whose Re-Set
Artist Deniz Sağdiç names and identities are unknown “We introduced our first Re-Set
and each portrait makes eye collection in 2006, employing not
contact with you.” only organic cotton, but also

12 | World of Denim | Issue 7


We use a thousand old pairs of denim jeans

for the production of 2,000 metres of denim
containing 20% recycled cotton.

Özge Özsoy,

ecological dyes, chemicals and The Re-Set collections now offer • Greenhouse gas emissions.
finishes,” says Özge Özsoy. “In a range of options including • Human toxicity.
2010, recycled denim was added power stretch, over-dyed fabrics • Eco-toxicity.
to the Re-Set collection, based on and selvedge denims. • Energy and water input.
the company’s system in which • Land use required in
old jeans are shredded by a Save Blue fibre production.
partner in Gaziantep and then The company’s Future Denim “Conventional textile processing
turned into new yarns for use in concept combines organic has very high water and energy
our ranges. Approximately a cottons, recycled cottons and consumption and a large amount
thousand pairs of denim jeans are polyesters and Lenzing Refibra, of wastewater discharge and the
used to produce 2,000 metres of with yarn dyeing via the Bossa conservation of water resources
blended denim containing 20% Save Blue process. and the environment have
recycled cotton yarn content.” The results from the Save Blue become key issues of concern,”
Bossa is also a member of the process have been analysed at said Özge. “We have designed
Alliance for Responsible Denim Cukorova University and found to our Spring/Summer 2020
(ARD) which is promoting the use achieve 85% savings in water collection to be as sustainable
of post-consumer recycled denim. compared to conventional as possible as a result of the
The recycled cotton actually has dyeing, with comparable careful collection of fibres and
certain advantages, in that being efficiency and no difference in the dyeing techniques.”
first made from indigo dyed yarns fastness values of the denims Founded in 1951 and
and fabric it is already blue and woven from these yarns. headquartered in Adana, Turkey,
after rope dyeing takes on a richer Bossa also uses the Made By Bossa is planning to grow its
indigo hue. It also has a slightly classification system in which turnover by 25% over the next
slubbier character providing extra twenty fibre types are scored few years by selected investments
texture and dimension. based on the following six criteria: in sustainable technologies. ●

World of
of Denim
Denim || Issue 7 || 13
Issue 7 13

A wonder material
across weft and warp
Graphene holds much promise as a route to new functional finishes
for fabrics, believes Monforts key customer in India Arvind.
The isolation of graphene graphene manufacturer Directa talking about all of the wonderful
earned Manchester University Plus early in 2018. things it could do, but when we
scientists Andre Geim and decided to become involved the
Konstantin Novoselov the Vision crucial thing was to get things
Nobel Prize in 2010. “I was very impressed by the out in the market as soon as
Hailed as a wonder material, Directa Plus story of setting up possible, and we opted to go for
graphene is the thinnest the company and building a the low-hanging fruit, which was
compound known to man at one complete manufacturing plant simply wear and comfort in
atom thick, the lightest material without having sold a single gram denim and textiles.”
known, the strongest compound of product,” said Stefano
discovered to date, the best Aldighieri, Arvind’s creative Thermal distribution
conductor of heat at room director. “That showed real vision, The positive effect of printing a
temperature and also the best as well as courage. I read about graphene layer on the inside of
conductor of electricity. the company’s success with denim jeans and jackets is to
In theory, graphene’s potential Colmar in outdoor apparel and increase the thermal distri-
applications are endless and the started to wonder if graphene bution of the fabric, so that the
European Union has made it the was something we could use in denim clothes can be worn
subject of its largest-ever denim. So we got together and comfortably even in very hot
research project – the €1 billion started to experiment.“ climates. At the same time,
Graphene Flagship. “In general, graphene is the while it does not kill bacteria,
Now Arvind has launched the magic product that has been able the graphene prevents its
world’s first graphene-enhanced to do anything so far but get out of formation and provides an anti-
denim jeans and jackets, following the lab,” he added. “For a number odour effect.
an agreement signed with Italian of years, R&D centres have been “We believe this innovation
will help drive the demand for
jeans and other items of denim
attire in India in particular,
where consumers have
expressed a desire for
fashionable denim products
that are more compatible with
hot temperatures,” Aldighieri
noted. “In addition Directa Plus
is the only company doing it
without chemistry, which fits
directly with Arvind’s
sustainable strategy.”
“Not only is our Graphene+
chemical-free and made from an
abundant, safe and non-toxic
raw material – graphite – we are
attaining high purity and
Razvan Popescu, Directa Plus consistent quality,” added
COO and Stefano Aldighieri, Razvan Popescu, Directa Plus
Arvind’s creative director. chief operating officer.

14 | World of Denim | Issue 7


Plasma super expansion

The company’s production
process, he explained, uses a
proprietary technique called
‘plasma super expansion’. Starting
from natural graphite, each step
of the process – expansion,
exfoliation and drying – creates
graphene-based materials ready
for a variety of uses and available
in different forms such as
powders, liquids and pastes. An
important factor for commercial
customers is the highly-consistent
graphene that results from this
process and no chemical or
solvent additives are required.
The company’s production
capacity is currently an annual 30
tons, which may not sound a lot
when compared to commodity
products, but can go a very long
way in apparel applications, since
very minimal quantities can be
applied in order to achieve the
desired effect. So while in terms
of price per kg it is not cheap, the
impact on cost at the production
run level can be negligible.
“In the apparel industry, we are
in any case at the stage where we
need to start talking about value exploit the potential for abrasion collaborate to expand applications
and not price, because this is resistance in apparel, with a in these fields for G+ graphene,
really depressing our industry,” product that is two hundred as well as for Grafysorber, a
Aldighieri said. “Look at the car times stronger than steel.” product developed for the
industry – you can buy a car for “We are only at the beginning of removal of hydrocarbons from
five thousand euros or for five what we see as a sustained contaminated water made from
million and if it was only about evolution and a further idea is the fibrous graphene sheets.
price everyone would drive the creation of electronic circuits on Headquartered in Ahmedabad,
cheap one. It’s down to how value apparel for applications such as India, and employing over 25,000
is perceived.” heating and power charging.” people, Arvind is India’s largest
In October, the two companies manufacturer of denim and a
Abrasion resistance signed a second agreement major player in knitted and woven
The next stage in the partnership covering two additional vertical apparel, as well as having interests
between Arvind and Graphene markets in India – composites and in engineering, retail, telecoms,
Plus, he added, will be to “really water purification. They will now advanced materials, agriculture
and real estate. It achieved sales of
around US$1.5 billion in its
financial year to March 2018.
In India in particular, consumers have Directa Plus was established in
2005 in Lomazzo, in Como, Italy,
expressed a desire for fashionable denim products to manufacture natural, chemical-
free and sustainably produced
that are more compatible with hot temperatures. graphene-based products which
are already to be found in
Stefano Aldighieri, Arvind commercial applications such as
textiles, tyres, composite materials
and environmental solutions. ●

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 15


Double zero for AFGI

Is it possible to produce denim without generating
waste-water? Yes, says Karachi-headquartered
Artistic Fabric and Garment Industries (AFGI).
“Our Double Zero technology end of the process, or recovered, Denimite is then turning this
combines our proprietary True resulting in zero water being material into beautiful hangtags.
Zero Dyeing and True Zero discharged, no effluents and no
Finishing for zero waste-water COD – chemical oxygen demand.” Indigo marble
processes that do not sacrifice The hangtag is made using an
looks or quality,” explains product Spray dyeing innovative seven-step process to
manager Ampelio del Lago. “This The company has introduced a turn old denim into new bio-
breakthrough technology allows us new indigo spray dyeing based resin composites. The two
to save the tremendous amount of technology developed in a companies designed and
water traditionally used in indigo collaboration between the dye developed these hangtags to
dyeing, mercerizing and finishing. manufacturer DyStar and resemble indigo marble, with just
“By using only the minimum technology company RotaSpray. the right amount of luster to
dyes required to penetrate the The patented RotoDyer and evoke a sense of intrigue.
fabric, all of our dyeing and fabric RotoCoater spraying technologies Produced with such precision, its
finishing water is evaporated at the eliminate the need to repeatedly denim origins are only visible at
run yarns through large vats of very close inspection.
dyes, and also to prepare and Artistic Fabric and Garment
discard huge amounts of Industries has two manufacturing
chemicals and dyes. They are plants that produce over 60 million
being employed with DyStar’s metres of denim and 25 million
Indigo Vat 40% solution and Sera garments per year. Its Vision 2020
Con C-RDA organic reducing includes a determination to invest
agent at the Artistic plant – the in renewable energy, explore new
first such system in Pakistan. ways to reuse production waste
AFGI has also collaborated with and bridge differences through
Denimite to produce a fashion global collaborations.
garment hangtag made from With control over raw materials,
recycled denim. yarn manufacturing and
AFGI converts post-consumer subsequent processes, the
recycled denim into fibres by company provides denims that
processing discarded jeans don’t compromise on fabric
AFGI’s hangtags are made from bio-based destined for landfills, using its performance, shade consistency
composite resins made from post-consumer state-of-the-art shredding facility. or finish. ●
recycled denim.

This breakthrough technology allows

us to save the tremendous amount of water
traditionally used in indigo dyeing,
mercerizing and finishing.

Ampelio del Lago, AFGI product manager

16 | World of Denim | Issue 7


Berto’s Urban Arctic Collection draws

Closing the
inspiration from the landscapes
encountered by the pioneering explorer
Ronald Amundsen to the South Pole.

loop in Biella Vittoria Marchi of Marchi and Fildi

and Berto’s Francesca Polato.

Italian denim manufacturer Berto recently We are establishing

launched its new Pianeta denim fabrics, a localised, closed loop
in exclusive tailored designs made by recycling chain in
the London atelier Black Horse Lane. northern Italy.
“Pianeta fabric is made from process, a natural and totally Vittoria Marchi,
Berto’s own unavoidable mill biodegradable sizing is employed,
waste, which we regenerate and along with a specific new finishing Marchi and Fildi
transform into our new Ecotec process saving 85% of the water
yarns,” explained Vittoria Marchi usually needed and significantly
of yarn manufacturer Marchi and reducing CO2 emissions per
Fildi, based in Biella. “The yarns metre of fabric.”
are produced by a transparent, A strategy of continuous
traceable and certified process investment has been a key to the
and can contain up to 80% pre- Berto’s success – it began
consumer cotton waste. With the spinning its own open end yarns
further involvement of the Everest and added ring spinning in 2004.
laundry and dyeing company in As denim output intensified, an
Padova, we are establishing a indigo dyeing plant was installed.
localised, closed loop recycling Later, as part of a major
chain in northern Italy.” modernisation and expansion
“Thanks to Ecotec yarn we save programme, the company took
65% of the water used for delivery of a Monforts eight-
standard fabric production,” chamber Montex stenter and was
added Francesca Polato, an early adopter of the Monforts
The London denim atelier Black Horse Lane
marketing manager for Berto. Eco Applicator for the economic is tailoring jeans made exclusively from
“During the further indigo dyeing addition of finishing chemicals. ● Berto’s Pianeta fabric.

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 17


for Cone
Cone Denim’s latest Cordura S Gene
denims combine an authentic look and feel
with hidden performance and engineered
stretch benefits based on dual-core yarn
technology featuring high strength Invista
nylon 6.6 filament technology.

“At Cone Denim, we continue to 175 years of heritage

expand and elevate our S Gene “Last year we were excited to offer
collection of denims to provide a first-of-its kind Cordura nylon
customers with high performing, selvedge denim with Cone, but the
sustainable denims that people partnership certainly didn’t stop
love to wear,” said the company’s there,” added Cindy McNaull,
vice-president of product design Cordura’s global brand and
and marketing, Kara Nicholas. marketing director. “Building on and natural indigo denims, as well
“These yarns are made with two our 175 years of combined as recreations of Cone’s
core components which optimise heritage, Cone and Cordura have Deeptone denims, which were first
stretch and maximize recovery and continued to push the boundaries manufactured in the early 1900s.
the dual-core is wrapped in a spun to bring enhanced denim solutions The company is part of Interna-
cotton covering to provide a soft to the market and the new Cordura tional Textile Group (ITG), with
cotton hand and natural S Gene Denim collection is manufacturing capabilities in
appearance. Cordura S Gene is the testament to this commitment. Mexico and China and a global
latest development arising from Cone offers unique collections network of sales, product and
our partnership with Cordura.” of performance, stretch, selvedge, merchandising professionals. ●

At Cone Denim we
produce high performing,
sustainable denims that
people love to wear.

Kara Nicholas,
Cone Denim
Cone’s Kara Nicholas with
Cordura’s Cindy McNaull.

18 | World of Denim | Issue 7


A hands-on approach
at Advance Denim
Advance Denim’s new Acore fabrics incorporate SolucellAir
cotton yarns which are engineered with sophisticated hollow
channel structures in a special technique developed in Italy.
“This results in fabrics that are metres, while making impressive
extremely light weight, soft touch, gains in efficiency. Energy
thermo-regulating and possess consumption, for example, has
moisture management properties, been reduced by 31% since 2013
via a manufacturing route that is and water consumption by 34%.
entirely free of chemicals,” says “We have installed our own
Amsterdam-based Enrico Forin, wastewater treatment plants using
who is responsible for the both anaerobic and aerobic
company’s development and systems capable of processing up
marketing in Europe. to 9,000 tons per day,” Enrico
He attributes the company’s says. “Treatments are monitored
forward-looking approach in and tracked in real time to
establishing truly sustainable enhance transparency. We are
operations to managing director also planning to install a reverse-
Amy Wang, who joined the osmosis recycling system
company immediately after enabling a certain amount of
graduation and subsequently wastewater to be reused on the
worked her way up through all of production lines. Our thermal
its departments. power plant uses denitrification,
“She’s very technical and has a desulphurisation and electrostatic When we
hands-on role in all of our new precipitation to reduce air
developments,” says Enrico. pollutants and we track and have requests from
“When we have requests from
customers we can take them
measure emissions from
operations to ensure they are well
customers we can take
straight to the top and she will above the national standards. them straight to the top,
carry things through to their “In another project we will
realisation, which is what makes install a new technology to which is what makes us
us special I think.” recycle the dyed yarn waste into
pigment dye powder. Advance
special I think.
Capacity expansion Denim is truly putting all of its
Headquartered in Foshan City, efforts into demonstrating that a Enrico Forin,
Guangdong, Advance has doubled traditional industry can transform
it weaving capacity over the past and be sustainable, while
Advance Denim
few years, to over 36 million remaining profitable.” ●

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 19


Golden goal for C&A

Monforts customer Arvind Mills has been the trusted denim
supplier to C&A in its ambitious project to mass produce an
extremely affordable pair of ladies’ denim jeans bearing the
coveted Cradle to Cradle (C2C) Gold certification.

At the beginning of 2017, Arvind

became the first manufacturer in
India to install a Monforts Eco Line
denim finishing system for faster
production, greater savings in
energy and better flexibility in
design and innovation. The Eco
Line is based on two key Monforts
technology advances – the Eco
Applicator, for minimum
application of the selected finishing
chemicals, and the ThermoStretch,
which carries out weft
straightening, stretching and drying
in a continuous process.
However, a reliable supply of
perfectly-finished denim fabric
from Arvind was merely the
starting point in the one-year C&A
project to achieve the finished C2C-
certified jeans, involving a wide
range of supply chain partners.

No waste
“Our vision at C&A is to ensure
nothing is wasted,” explained the
brand’s denim fabric manager
Sevgin Sicim during a panel
presentation at Denim Premiere
Vision in London. “A starting point
is to produce with pure materials
and safe chemicals, to reuse as
much as possible and to consider
water and energy usage at every
stage of production.”
With approximately 1,500
branches in 18 European
countries and more than 31,000
employees, C&A, headquartered
Some 100 separate elements had to be
in Vilvoorde, Belgium, is one of
assessed in the Cradle-to-Cradle certification Europe’s leading fashion retailers.
process for the C&A Wear the Change jeans. It is the world’s largest buyer of
organic cotton and currently 67%

20 | World of Denim | Issue 7


Our vision
is to ensure nothing
is wasted.

Sevgin Sicim, C&A

of all of the cotton it uses is

either certified organic cotton or
sourced as Better Cotton, with
the target set for achieving 100%
Pictured from the left are Sevgin Sicim
by 2020. and Jens Hesse of C&A with Stephan
In June 2017, C&A introduced Huette, production and quality assurance
the C2C Gold-certified Bio Cotton manager for Asahi Kasei/s Roica.
t-shirt, and has subsequently sold
some 1.3 C2C certified pieces. Wear the Change Kasei’s Roica V550, which is
“Having successfully launched the already registered C2C Gold.
Continuous cycle Bio Cotton t-shirt – which retails at However, once all the suitable
The C2C Certified Product eight euros – under our ‘Wear the components were identified and
Standard guides designers and Change’ banner, we decided to go prototype pairs of the jeans were
manufacturers through a continual for a bigger challenge,” explained confirmed as C2C Gold, there was
improvement process, aiming to C&A design manager Jens Hesse. a further problem when it came to
achieve a circular economy “The stipulation was that the a full production run.
approach. It examines a product product had to be possible at a “The cotton thread we had
through five quality categories – retail price point of twenty-nine selected for the stitching needed
material health, material reutili- euros per pair. The C2C certifi- to be a lot stronger,” Hesse
sation, renewable energy and cation programme is without explained. “It was breaking far too
carbon management, water doubt the only holistic one on the much and totally slowing down
stewardship and social fairness. market but a huge list of production. Eventually, it had to
A product receives an chemicals involved in the denim be replaced with a polyester
achievement level in each jeans production chain had to go alternative in order for production
category – Basic, Bronze, Silver, through the certification process.” targets to be met and the price
Gold or Platinum – with the lowest Components and raw materials point retained.”
achievement level representing for the jeans came from suppliers Unfortunately, due to the C2C
the product’s overall mark. The around the world, with Arvind, for stipulation that the lowest
criteria at each level builds example, supplying the basic achievement level for a single
towards the expectation of denim, Coats the sewing thread, component should represent a
eliminating all toxic and uniden- Dystar the dyes and finishing product’s overall mark, this meant
tified chemicals, and becoming chemicals, YKK various that a proportion of the
nutrients for a safe, continuous accessories and Freudenberg the production run denims hit the
cycle. cotton interlining for the stores bearing only Bronze labels.
Due to the stringency of the waistband. Pacific Jeans in “This is a situation that we are
system, some of the Bio Cotton t- Bangladesh handled the cutting currently working to remedy,”
shirts in C&A stores are currently and sewing. Hesse concluded. “C2C Bronze
labelled C2C Silver due to the use level would be Platinum in almost
of certain inks which the company Challenges any other certification system, but
is working to optimise. One major challenge was in we have the ninety-nine elements
As far as the denim jeans were finding a suitable elastane to add in place and now we are
concerned, some 100 separate 1-2% stretch in the denims. This confident we will soon reach the
elements had to be assessed. was solved by using partner Asahi one hundred.” ●

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 21


Value and
in black
In the past, black denims often
tended to lose their appeal
after washing, but the jeans in
the new Artistic Milliners
Supercharged Noir collection
are guaranteed not to fade. Consumers are
looking for a product
“Our performance denim portfolio
is based on a powerful dense
excellent shade consistency and
long-lasting vibrancy. Solution
that stays black after
black with excellent colour dyeing also helps to greatly multiple washes.
fastness, based on solution dyed reduce the water used in the
fibres and yarns in which the manufacturing process.
colour is locked in from the start,” “For the Supercharged Noir Ebru Ozaydin,
says Ebru Ozaydin, senior vice- collection, we really Artistic Milliners
president of sales and marketing wanted to fuse value
at Artistic Milliners. “They are and versatility,” says
based on Cordura and Tencel Ebru, “especially
fibres to provide a combination of since these features creation of Dutch brand G-Star’s
softness and strength which we are important for Cradle-to-Cradle Gold certified
believe will be the next both men’s and denims – a first for the sector.
evolution in performance women’s They are based on the cleanest
denim. In addition to excellent offerings. Over indigo technology developed to
colour fastness, they have a the past few date, employing an organic fixing
very eco-efficient footprint.” seasons, we’ve agent to result in 70% fewer
seen a rising chemicals, no salts and
Colour fastness interest in black producing no salt by-products
Combining Cordura denim in a variety during the reduction and dyeing
staple nylon 6.6 Black of segments and process, consequently saving
SDN fibre and spun- consumers are water and leaving clean and
dyed Lenzing Tencel looking for a product recyclable water effluent.
Modal fibres with that stays black after With its state-of-the-art denim
Eco Color multiple washes.” mill in Karachi in Pakistan,
technology, the equipped with the latest
collection is Gold European equipment, including
infused with Artistic Milliners Monforts stentering, Artistic
colour-fastness was also the denim Milliners has an annual production
locked in at the manufacturer capacity of up to 36 million
fibre level for involved in the metres of denim. ●

Ebru Ozaydin, Artistic Milliners.

22 | World of Denim | Issue 7

Farm or
Kilimdenim’s Edirne
factory has recently been
described as “more like an
organic farm than a
factory” and visitors are
surprised to find peacocks
frolicking on beautifully
landscaped lawns.
The Kilimdenim plant extends
across an area of 100,000 square
metres in Edirne, Western Thrace.

The lawns are fed by filtered water has been replanted with 1,500
from the factory and fertilised with Calabrian pine saplings that are We employ a
by-products from the company’s fed from waste water which is also
production process. In addition, purified at the company’s refinery. range of kinder fibres
food for Kilimdenim’s staff canteen
is provided by a small chicken Commitment
in our production.
farm, bee hives and 25 types of This is all in keeping with
fruit trees. Sheep and geese also Kilimdenim’s commitment
wander happily around. to sustainability which is range consists of three grades
The Western Thrace region in reflected in the company’s made entirely from recycled
which Edirne is situated is blessed latest denim ranges. polyester and post-consumer
with some of Turkey’s most “We employ a range of kinder recycled cotton.
agriculturally fertile lands and the fibres in our production, including Having invested some
Kilimdenim plant extends across organic and BCI cotton, Lyocell, €4 million in new technology
an area of 100,000 square metres. recycled polyester and both between 2015 and 2017,
In recent years, a major project pre- and post-consumer recycled Kilimdenim has reduced its
has been undertaken to reclaim an cotton,” explained sales executive consumption of electricity by
area of accumulated slag which Bahadir Çapar. “Our Zero Cotton 40%, its use of steam by 66% and
its water usage by 65%.
Kilimdenim sales executive Bahadir Çapar with Helene Smits
of the Alliance for Responsible Denim (ARD).
The company, which is
headquartered in Istanbul with its
manufacturing plant in Edirne,
has modernised its yarn
manufacturing operations,
significantly increasing capacity
while adding resource efficiency
and also the ability to
manufacture dual-core yarns
which are used especially in
stretch fabrics.
A further investment during
2018 has seen the installation of
48 new weaving machines to
increase the quality and diversity
of the fabric it produces. ●

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 23


The timing is
right for Refibra
Lenzing’s Tencel has been included in many of the collections
introduced by global Monforts denim customers over the past
year, and the fibre manufacturer’s ground breaking Refibra
lyocell has also been rapidly accepted by the industry. World of
Denim talked to Tricia Carey, Lenzing’s director of global
business development for denim, about these developments.
World of Denim: For the benefit of TC: Lenzing launched Tencel
readers who may not be aware of Refibra Lyocell in Feb 2017 and
it, what is the Refibra process? since then we have spinners,
Tricia Carey: Tencel Refibra weavers and knitters around the
lyocell is the first commercially- world using this fibre. We are in
viable manmade cellulosic fibre applications from denim and I
using waste to make new lyocell think in many ways, the timing for
fibre. Refibra technology uses our launch of Refibra was perfect,
post-industrial cotton waste because if we had introduced it
which is made into pulp. This earlier there wouldn’t have been
pulp is combined with wood pulp the terrific interest that it’s
and utilises the closed-loop generating. The denim mills are
manufacturing of lyocell to make certainly now ready for it.
new fibre. Additionally, Refibra
technology incorporates fibre WOD: Who are the brands
identification, so there is now featuring Refibra?
transparency in the supply chain. TC: Those with Refibra
technology are Artistic Denim
Lenzing’s director of WOD: Who are the partners Mills, Artistic Fabric Mills &
involved in its manufacturing
global business
development for denim Garment Industries, Artistic
Tricia Carey. supply chain? Milliners, Azgard 9, Crescent

Pakistan’s Azgard 9 is among

Monforts customers now
incorporating Lenzing’s
Refibra regenerated cellulose
in its denim collections.
24 | World of Denim | Issue 7

Brazil’s Vicuhna is an advocate of Lenzing’s Tencel.

Bahuman, Naveena and Soorty, WOD: Is it possible to production facilities in the USA,
all of Pakistan, Bossa, Kipas and manufacture 100% Refibra UK, and Austria is approximately
Orta of Turkey, as well as products or would the price 220,000 tons per year.
Advance Denim (China) Arvind premium be too prohibitive?
(India), Cone Denim (USA), DNM TC: Yes it is possible to weave WOD: So what benefits is Tencel
(Egypt), Santanderina (Spain) and or knit 100% Tencel Refibra bringing to denim jeans?
Kurabo (Japan). lyocell fabrics and several TC: To put it simply, the benefit of
mills already have it in their Tencel lyocell in denims are
WOD: Presumably it’s only collections for sampling. enhanced comfort, accelerated
possible to recycle 100% cotton Shoppers can now buy 100% performance and a very
products and not blends? Are Tencel Refibra lyocell in tops and convincing message when it
there any other limitations? dresses from Patagonia. comes to sustainability.
TC: At this time it is only possible
to recycle 100% cotton textiles. In WOD: What, if any, are the WOD: Who are the key
theory, we are taking cellulose obstacles to scaling up? brands featuring Tencel?
back to cellulose. There are TC: Lenzing is manufacturing TC: All of the brands I’ve
companies developing Refibra technology in Austria at mentioned in relation to the
technology to separate fibres for our lyocell production facility and adoption of Refibra earlier are
blended fabrics. Currently we are we do not have obstacles to already using Tencel in their
only using post-industrial scraps scaling up. collections. In addition, you can
from garment makers’ cutting find it in collections from Albiate
rooms. But we are currently at the WOD: Moving on to Tencel, and Berto in Italy, Black Peony in
first phase in using this industrial which is your more established Hong Kong, Çalık, Iskur, Kassim,
cotton waste and eventually the sustainable lyocell brand, Kilim, Tusa and W Denim in
goal is to move to post-consumer what is Lenzing’s current Turkey, India’s Raymond Uco,
waste, where naturally there are capacity for this fibre? Freedom and Prosperity from
many more challenges in TC: Our current capacity for China, Rajby of Pakistan and
ensuring uniform quality. Tencel Lyocell at the four Brazil’s Vicuhna. ●

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 25


at Çalık
Through planned and budgeted
investments, Çalık Denim will expand the
current annual production of finished
denim fabric at its plant in Malatya, Turkey,
from 44 million metres to 60 million metres
by 2020, but the company’s parent Çalık
Holding also believes Industry 4.0 will be
critical to its success going forward.

“At Çalık Group, we aim to make partnership with GE. It is focused

further advances in innovation focus on digital transformation
and entrepreneurship, use digital efforts at Çalık Group companies.
tools more effectively, and stay The aim is to develop sustainable
abreast of new developments, in projects in cyber security and
line with our mission to add value artificial intelligence for the
to people’s lives,” Ahmet Çalık, global market.
chairman of the board has said in “We are evaluating our
company’s latest annual report. performances and improving our
“Managing digital transformation processes to adapt to rapid
requires strong leadership and a changes, ensuring that Turkey
visionary approach and digital and the countries where we
transformation is among the top operate play a pivotal role in the
priorities of all our companies new industrial revolution,” Mr We see
around the world.“
“We are investing in digitali-
Çalık added. “We have first
initiated a digital transformation
digitalization as an
zation and taking steps to change at Çalık Denim beginning with important opportunity
our way of doing business with manufacturing, data collection
the use of next generation and analysis, as well as shipping to remain competitive
technologies. We see digitali-
zation as an important
operations. The goal is to
conduct our business activities in
in a constantly
opportunity to remain an uninterrupted, highly efficient evolving world.
competitive in a constantly and flexible manner.”
evolving world and to make our Çalık Denim’s many brand
companies leaders in their customers include Hugo Boss, Çalık Group chairman
respective industries.” Calvin Klein, Diesel, G Star, Guess, Ahmet Çalık
In 2017, the company Pepe Jeans, H&M, Tommy Hilfiger
established Çalık Dijital in and True Religion. ●

26 | World of Denim | Issue 7


Doing good things

As part of its Artistic Cares programme, Artistic Fabric and
Garment Industries (AFGI) has committed to planting 27,000
mangrove saplings in Karachi as part of WWF-Pakistan’s Earth
Hour 2018 Mangrove Plantation Campaign.
The company is committed to
reducing its carbon footprint
through this campaign, with one
tree planted for each employee.
“At AFGI, we believe our respon-
sibility goes beyond just manufac-
turing fabrics and garments,” said
director Ahmed Javed. “We hope
this initiative will go a long way
towards conserving mangrove
forests, but also, benefit the
communities they support and
pave the way for more
partnerships like this in the future.”
Other CSR intitiatives from AFGI
have seen:
• A partnership with SINA and
Child life, two non-profit organi-
sations providing free or
subsidised medical care in remote
areas in Pakistan. The clinic is fully
funded by AFGI and functions
under the expertise of SINA and
Child life. Since its inception, the
clinic has provided medical care
to over 90,000 people.

• The installation of a PET CT

scanner at the Jinnah
Postgraduate Medical Centre. • In 2017, AFGI launched the apparel industry and within its
Used for the diagnosis and PACE programme for its female global supply chain. Through
monitoring of cancer, this is the garment workers. PACE is the this programme women are
first PET scan and cyclotron in a personal advancement and given foundational life skills,
public sector hospital in Pakistan. career enhancement technical training and support
• The sponsorship of several programme developed by Gap that will help them advance in
schools focused on improving and dedicated to supporting the workplace and in their
literacy rates. women who work in the global personal lives. ●

World of Denim | Issue 7 | 27

Proven success.
Functionalized Denim 4.0 by Monforts


The Monforts range combinations for denim finishing are now even more cost-
efficient and eco-friendly: The Monforts ECOApplicator is now used for liquor
Drying, stretching and skewing functions for the denim fabric are performed by a
modified Thermex-Thermo-Stretch unit. This configuration allows fabric speeds of
up to 40 m/min to be achieved with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim on the ”single rubber”
The ”double rubber” version comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two
felt calenders in line. Together with the innovative Thermex stretching unit, fabric
speeds of up to 80 m/min can thus be achieved with 14.5 oz/yd2 denim.
On both range versions, the denim fabric is stretched and skewed far more gently
than with conventional range combinations. Ask our denim technologists.
We will be happy to advise you.

A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG

Germany | A Member of CHTC Fong’s Group