Академический Документы
Профессиональный Документы
Культура Документы
Garden
Canna are bold, tropical-looking, herbaceous perennial plants that bloom over a long
period in summer and are cold hardy in much of the southern United States into USDA
Hardiness Zone 7b. Canna have been in and out of fashion during their long history, and
are currently rebounding in popularity from a post WWII low. Currently, cannas are very
popular everywhere in the United States. In the South, we plant-em and forget-em, but
north of Zone 7b, they are easy to lift and store during the winter. We urge our readers to
visit our garden during the summer and fall open house days to see our collection. You
can also check out our web site to view our offerings.
Canna should be located where they will have a visual impact at the height of summer.
Most cannas are tall and need to be placed at the back of a bed, but there are some dwarf
varieties that will look good at the front of the border. Here at our garden nursery, we
combine cannas with spring bulbs, baptisia, daylilies, coneflowers, cuphea, and
ornamental grasses. Canna are 55mph plants and can be located along highways where
they can be appreciated by drivers. In 1986, in preparation for the US Olympic Festival in
Raleigh, we introduced the NC Department of Transportation Roadside Beautification
Division to Canna Lilies, by sharing several dump truck loads of Canna 'The President'
rhizomes from plantings that we had growing at the NC State Fair grounds. To say they
liked cannas would be the understatement of the decade as visitors can now find Canna
lilies planted along highways from one end of North Carolina to the other.
Canna species are native to semi-tropical and tropical parts of North and South America.
Their native range extends from South Carolina (Canna flaccida) south to Argentina and
includes the Caribbean islands. In their native habitat, Canna live in damp shady
locations along the margins of rivers and lakes.
Canna are valuable as a food source in certain cultures because their rhizomes contain a
high quality starch. The primary species used for food production is Canna indica. The
starch (commonly called achira) is used in Vietnam to make high quality "cellophane"
noodles. In the modern era of agriculture, canna is only rarely used as a primary food
source, as it has been replaced by more nutritious and higher yielding crops such as
potatoes and corn. Canna have been cultivated as a food crop for over 4000 years in their
native range in Central and South America.
In addition to food, Canna have a variety of other uses. Canna seeds are pea-sized, round,
brown or black in color, and exceptionally hard. They have been used as shotgun pellets
in India (hence the common name "Indian Shot"). The seeds are used as beads in jewelry,
rosaries and have been incorporated into baby rattles and musical instruments. A purple
dye can be extracted from the seed, and fibers extracted from the stem of the plant are
used to make jute and paper. Canna have been used for phytoremdiation (the use of plants
to absorb toxins from soils), in order to remove toxic heavy metals such as copper and
zinc from pig waste, and to remove excess fertilizer and insecticides from greenhouse
runoff. In Thailand, Canna are a traditional father's day gift.
Although used for thousands of years as a food crop, Canna were not well-known to
European botanists until the 1500s. They are first mentioned in the book The Vienna
Codex (1536-1566). Canna may have arrived in Europe from the Americas as early as
Columbus's 1492 travels. By 1576, Canna were cultivated in gardens in several European
countries; although, they only became widely popular as ornamental plants in the
Victorian era (mid to late 1800s). Canna had a particularly large following in France,
Hungary, England, Italy, Germany, America and India during the late 1800s. Hundreds of
cultivars with shorter habits and novel flower forms and colors were created between
1860 and 1910. Unfortunately, most of these cultivars were lost because European
gardeners stopped growing Canna during the upheaval from World War I through World
War II. In addition, garden fashions changed. In the first half of the 20th century
prominent garden designers, such as Gertrude Jekyll, replaced formal looking Victorian
gardens with informal, relaxed perennial borders. This led gardeners to largely abandon
the plants used by the previous generation, including the canna. However, starting in the
1950s, Canna have been making a slow comeback in gardens, and today they are
approaching their Victorian era popularity. Modern breeders have been releasing some
wonderful cultivars and currently there are more than 2000 cultivars to choose from ...
surely you can find at least one that you like.
Canna Morphology
Canna are herbaceous perennials with a rhizomatous rootstock that allows them to spread
slowly outward from where they are planted. Each individual stem consists of a central
stalk with 10 to 12 leaves arranged alternately or spirally along it. Each plant may be 2' to
3' wide. In nature, the plants end to be quite tall (7' to 16') but many shorter selections
have been created for gardens. Once the plant has 6 to 9 leaves, it forms an inflorescence
at the tip. After the inflorescence has finished flowering, that stalk begins to die and is
replaced by a new stalk emerging toward the tip of the rhizome.
The rhizome is a thickened underground horizontal stem that sits just below the soil
surface. As it elongates, it produces shoots that grow upward to produce leaves and
flowers and fibrous roots at each node. The thickness of the canna rhizome varies by
species. The cultivars grown for food have very thick rhizomes, but some species
(especially the water-loving species) have thin or wiry rhizomes. In some species, the
rhizome grows up to 24" (60cm) long and has many branches. Eventually the older parts
of the rhizome die off naturally.
Canna leaves are usually large, banana-like, tropical-looking and bold. Most cultivars
have rich emerald-green leaves, but some have purple/red or variegated leaves. The
purple or red leaf color is usually quite dark and may cover the entire leaf, just the outside
margin, or occasionally just the midrib. Variegation in Canna has two forms. It may
consist of white or red splotches/sectors on green leaves (Canna 'Stuttgart'). Or, it may
consist of narrow stripes of color between the minor veins (Canna 'Phasion' or Canna
'Benal Tiger').
When canna leaves first emerge, they are rolled up and unfurl over the course of a day or
two (unfurling occurs only at night). The leaves areagenerally waxy (glaucous) and may
have a dull or shiny finish depending on the type of wax. The Water canna cultivar group
generally has very narrow leaves compared to most others. The leaves have rounded sides
that taper to a point at the tip (acute or short acuminate). The leaf blade tapers gradually
into a sheath that merges with the stem and thus there is no leaf petiole.
The canna flower is very exotic. Technically, the 'flowers' are inflorescences, meaning
that they are clusters of flowers on a single structure. A single terminal inflorescence
forms at the tip of the stalk. The inflorescence may be straight and narrow (a spike) or
quite well branched (a panicle or thyrse). The well-branched trait is strongly selected for
by breeders as it is showier. Some canna florets open in the morning and look best during
the daytime, while others are night bloomers whose beauty is waning by the next
morning. Canna flowers are pollinated by a variety of organisms. Day-flowering Canna
are pollinated by bees or hummingbirds and night-flowering Canna are pollinated by
moths or bats.
Canna florets tend to be short-lived, lasting only a day or two. New florets open
constantly and provide a continual bloom during the season. In temperate gardens, canna
flowering usually begins in midsummer and will last until frost. The start date and
duration of flowering varies by cultivar. Flowering is more prolific if gardeners remove
the old flowers, taking care not to damage the unopened buds still remaining in the flower
spike. In a greenhouse, Canna will generally not flower in the winter due to low light
levels, and flowering may be curtailed during extremely hot temperatures.
Canna flowers range in color from pale-yellow, to orange, to blood-red, and all shades in
between (salmon, apricot, and pink). Many people think that canna flowers only come in
rich, saturated exciting colors like bright-red or yellow. However, there are many pastel
shades of pink, primrose yellow, and pale orange. A few cultivars are marketed as being
white, but that is not strictly true. The "white" Canna usually emerge a very pale yellow
and mature to a cream color. There are no true white Canna in cultivation. Some of the
Victorian era Canna were said to have been pure white, but they have been lost to history
and we have no way of verifying these claims. There are no blue or purple canna flowers.
Canna flowers may be striped, streaked, spotted or splotched with contrasting colors. The
most common form is a yellow or orange flower with darker red to brown splotches on it.
There are a few picotee Canna that are red with a yellow edge. Occasionally the throat of
the flower (where the staminodes overlap) will have a contrasting color. The labellum
may have contrasting spots or stripes on it too.
This thick seed coat allows canna seed to survive for a very long time. In 1969, Canna
indica seed was found in a 550-year-old archaeological dig in Argentina and was
successfully germinated. The reason that the seed coat may be so thick is that fire plays a
part in canna seed germination in its native habitat. In the wild, canna seed germinates
best in places burned by fire, which not only weakens the seed coat, but destroys any
competition for the emerging canna seedling.
Canna Taxonomy
The genus name canna comes from the Greek "kanna" and the Celtic "cana" which refers
to "a reed-like plant" and is also the root of the musical term "canon". The name canna
was applied to this genus as early as 1576 and was formally given to the genus by
Linnaeus in his seminal work Species Plantarum. (Trivia: canna is the first genus
described in Species Plantarum). Canna are the only genus in the family Cannaceae.
Cannaceae is in the order Zingibales and is thus distantly related to Banana (Musa), Bird-
of-Paradise (Strelitzia), Heliconia, Maranta, and Ginger (Zingiber). Like these, canna is a
monocot.
The taxonomy of the genus canna has been tumultuous and confused due to its worldwide
cultivation for food and its extensive hybridization for ornamental use. In the past,
experts have argued that there may be 50 to 100 species in the genus and used floral
morphology to identify different species. However, modern taxonomists have declared
many of these species to be either duplicates or to be cultivated hybrids that do not
deserve a specific epithet. The prominent Japanese botanist Nobuyuki Tanaka wrote a
monograph of the of the family Cannaceae in 2001 and indicated that there were 19
species in the genus. In 2008, H. Maas-van de Kamer and P.J.M. Maas released another
canna monograph declaring that there are only 10 wild species in the genus. Maas
lumped many of Tanaka's Asian canna species together under Canna indica using the
argument that Canna are native to the Americas and any Asian taxa are merely
descendants of Canna indica that spread worldwide as a food crop. Tanaka on the other
hand has done cytological and genetic analysis of all the taxa and makes a case for 19
genetically distinct Canna based on morphology, DNAanalysis, and pollen structure.
Plant taxonomists often have disagreements of this sort. Different breeders and growers
may choose to follow one taxonomist or the other as their preferred source. Kew gardens
in England has sided with Tanaka for the time being, and has assigned all of the historical
species to one of Tanaka's 19 species.
1. Canna bangii
2. Canna flaccida - used as a source of yellow flowers and scent in modern cultivars.
3. Canna glauca - used extensively in modern cultivars for its form and tolerance of wet
feet.
4. Canna indica - parent of agricultural cannas. Used extensively in modern cultivars for
its form, branched inflorescences and early flowering.
5. Canna iridiflora - used extensively in modern cultivars for large flowers, long bloom
period, self-cleaning flowers, and cold tolerance.
6. Canna jaegeriana
7. Canna liliiflora - used extensively in modern cultivars for large flowers, off-white
flower color, and flower scent. It has poor cold tolerance and is difficult to grow.
8. Canna paniculata
9. Canna pedunculata
10. Canna tuerckheimii
Canna hybridization has crossed many of the wild species in a very complex manner.
Many epithets have been used in canna breeding programs leading to names such as
Canna x hortensis, Canna x hybrida, and Canna x orchiodes. These have all been
abandoned and for the sake of simplicity, all ornamental hybrids of canna are now
properly called Canna x generalis. Usually, breeders do not mention the epithet "x
generalis" when they write the name.
Canna first appeared in US gardens in the 1840s but they were not widespread until the
1890s. Much of the early breeding work with Canna occurred in France. The first
prominent breeder was M. Théodore Année, a French diplomat who collected Canna
glauca and Canna indica in Chile and based his garden hybrids on crosses of these two
species. He improved the habit and leaf color but his cultivars sported wild-type flowers.
Année released at least 20 hybrid lines by the 1870s with names such as Canna Annei-
rosea, Canna Annei-rubra, and Canna Annei-marginata. Later catalogs referred to Canna
Anneii and some early taxonomists have used the now invalid term Canna x annaei.
Unfortunately, many of his hybrid lines have died out, but there are some modern hybrids
with similar traits. The Année Canna were bred primarily for foliage attributes and are
usually listed in the Foliage Group of ornamental Canna. Année was also responsible for
another popular breeding line of foliage Canna named for a German named Ehemann.
These were primarily a cross between Canna iridiflora and Canna 'Warscewicsii' (aka
Canna warscewicsii, Canna indica var. warscewicsii) and are also known as Ehemann
Canna, Canna 'Ehemannii', or the invalid name Canna x ehmannii.
From the 1860s to 1903, Pierre Antoine Marie Crozy bred hundreds of cultivars of Canna
from Canna glauca, Canna indica, Canna iridiflora and Canna 'Warscewicsii' with a wide
range of heights and flower colors. Some of these were known as French Dwarf Canna or
gladiolus-flowered Canna due to their resemblance to (what else?) gladiolus flowers.
Some of these were triploids, and only a few of his original cultivars survive today. These
(and their modern offspring) have been assigned to the Crozy group of Canna. Crozy
Canna tend to be the most cold-hardy of the garden Canna.
In the 1890s the German botanist, Carl Ludwig Sprenger, while working in Italy, crossed
existing cultivars with the American native species Canna flaccida to bring bright yellow
flowers into the gene pool. He introduced multicolored flowers that had yellow
staminodes with red or brown splotches. These flowers often tended to resemble Cattleya
orchid flowers because they had wide overlapping staminodes. Sprenger's cultivars were
referred to as Italian Canna or Orchid-flowered Canna. They have also been known as
Canna x orchiodes (or Canna x orchioides) which is no longer considered a valid name.
These Canna have been assigned to the Italian Group of Canna.
America also had its own crop of early canna breeders which include Antoine Wintzer
and Dr. Van Fleet who together created over 100 cultivars from the 1890s to the 1910s.
Their goal was to create pure color forms of rare colors, including yellow and white.
Many of these crosses are still around today including the popular burgundy-leaved
'Wyoming'. At the same time, the West Coast plant guru Luther Burbank had his own
canna breeding program.
The most prominent botanist of the 20th century doing research on canna genetics and
breeding was Triloki Nath Khoshoo of the National Botanic Gardens of Lucknow in
India. He performed in-depth studies of canna history, breeding and genetics during the
1960s and 1970s. The culmination of this research was the well known book, The Origin
and Evolution of Cultivated Canna.
Over the last 150 years, breeders have reduced the height of the plant, increased the
flower size and staminode width, increased the length of the flowering period, improved
the flower placement (higher above the leaves and more erect), improved flower
durability, improved the cold hardiness, and produced self-cleaning plants (the spent
flowers fall off automatically and do not need to be pruned).
Breeders are still looking for very pure bloom colors, especially white. Canna liliiflora
has "white" flowers but is not cold hardy and it has been difficult to produce garden-
worthy cultivars from it. Some are looking for blue or purple pigmentation in the flowers
(as it currently does not exist). In addition, breeders want to increase the length of time
that an individual canna floret lives, and the number of cultivars whose florets open
during the day instead of the night. Improvements in both of these traits would result in
plants that have more florets open at the same time and thus appear to be more
floriferous. There is also the potential to improve the scent of canna flowers but flower
scent is not the focus of many breeders.
Prominent modern canna breeders include; retired nursery owner and hybridizer Kent
Kelly of Jonesboro, Arkansas; Reverend Curt Wallace of Delaware; Dr. Robert
Armstrong of Longwood Gardens who had a large canna breeding program in the 1960s;
Marcelle Sheppard of Texas; Jan Potgeither of South Africa; Bernard Yorke of Australia;
and Dave Karchesky and Alice Harris of Pennsylvania. Plant Delights Nursery is happy
to offer some of their best cultivars for sale.
Canna Culture
In their native habitat, Canna grow in shaded locations. However, in temperate gardens
Canna need full sun. The more sun, the better. In the extreme southern US, the intense
sunlight may bleach the flowers, but partial shade may help in these locations as well as
in the desert Southwest, where the lower humidity and soil moisture may also cause foliar
burning. Canna will survive in a shady site, but they will not grow as profusely and the
leaves (especially red or purple) may lose their color, defeating the purpose of growing
them.
Canna prefer rich, water-retentive, well-drained soils that are high in organic matter but
will do fine in a wide range of soils. They prefer a pH around 6.5. Some cultivars have
been bred to grow partially submerged in shallow water as well as in saturated soils. In
drier planting areas, at least 1-2" of water per week is needed to keep Canna looking their
best.
Like bananas, Canna are heavy feeders. Gardeners need to provide plenty of compost or
organic fertilizer to keep their plants looking their best. Without adequate fertility or
moisture, Canna look quite ugly. If your Canna look ratty during the summer, that's a
sure sign that an extra shovel of manure is required. As long as you are using organics, it
is impossible to over-fertilize a canna. You can cut ragged plants to the round even in
midsummer, add fertilizer, water, and they will quickly recover.
If you're growing your canna in containers, keep in mind that Canna are large plants and
therefore need a large container. Any good potting soil will work fine. The plants will
lose vigor as they become pot-bound. When that happens, lift the root-ball, divide the
rhizomes and replant. Container-grown Canna will need watering once or even twice a
day if grown outside, and it may help to stand the pot in a saucer of water. Provide a
slow-release granular or water soluble fertilizer at full rate according to the instructions
on the label.
Pruning is not necessary with Canna. As mentioned earlier, the old flower stalks will die
and fade away on their own, but if you are a neat freak, feel free to cut them back. Be
sure to remove the old spent inflorescences on Canna that produce viable seed to prevent
unwanted seedlings that will vary from the original clone. In the fall, I like to let Canna
die back on their own since the old foliage helps protect the rhizomes from winter cold.
Canna are root hardy perennials in places where the soil does not freeze, and can survive
air temperatures down to 0°F. They like really hot temperatures in the summer and
perform well into the upper 90s. Canna rhizomes should be planted 2-4" deep after the
last frost date and should not be planted after August, north of Zone 8. Potted Canna
should be planted in the garden at the same level they were in the pot. A well-developed
rhizome will have 3 or more eyes on it. We recommend that in climates where winter
temperatures drop below 5 degrees F they be covered in fall with a 1' deep pile of
shredded leaves. North of Zone 7b, you may be able to squeeze out another half-zone of
hardiness by looking for a microclimate in your garden. Site your Canna along a south
facing wall or other heat-retaining structure. Canna are generally not bothered by high
winds and do not need wind protection. Canna form wide clumps so individual plants
should be spaced 2-3' apart ... more for some of the more stoloniferous canna selections.
In colder climates, lift the tubers and store them indoors above freezing for the winter.
When lifting the rhizomes, take care not to damage them, especially those cultivars that
have long narrow rhizomes (like Canna 'Stuttgart'). Shake off the excess soil and store the
rhizomes in peat moss to avoid dessication. Do not add any water or you will promote
rotting. Dust the rhizomes with sulfur to keep away fungi and bacteria. Keep the
rhizomes cool (below 50°F) but do not let them freeze. A garage, crawl-space, or
basement is ideal. Make sure that the peat does not dry out too much during the winter. If
the peat starts pulling away from the pot edge, add a little water. Prior to planting in the
spring, wet the peat moss so that the rhizomes are turgid when planted.
Canna Propagation
Canna may be propagated by division or by seed. When dividing the rhizome, lift it and
remove any excess soil. Cut the rhizome into sections, each containing at least 3 "eyes"
(prominent red buds). Single-eye divisions may survive but will take longer to produce a
vigorous new plant. The best time to divide is when the rhizome is actively growing so
that the new buds are easily seen.
Due to centuries of breeding, most of the commercial Canna are sterile and don't produce
seed. Only those which are fairly close to the native species will produce viable seed. If
you have several Canna, you can expect a wide range of variability in the seedlings since
Canna are both self-fertile as well as out-crossing to other nearby Canna.
If your plants' seeds set, they will be held in warty quarter-sized capsules. When opened,
the canna seed look like small, dark, ball-bearings. The seed coat is exceedingly thick and
requires scarification for germination to occur. Part of the seed coat contains polyphenols
which act as chemical germination inhibitors. They must break down or be washed away
before germination will occur. Nick the seed coat with sandpaper, or a small saw blade
until the light-colored tissues are exposed. Take care not to cut too deep and damage the
embryo. There is a roughly circular spot on the seed called the "imbibition lid" near the
hilum slit (the scar where the seed was attached to the fruit), which is slightly raised
above the surface of the seed. The imbibition lid is the spot that naturally decomposes,
falls off, and allows water to enter the seed. If you can find it, the imbibition lid is the
best place scarify canna seed.
An alternative to scarifying the seed is the hot water method. Place the seeds in a cup and
pour very hot (nearly boiling) water over them. The temperature shock causes micro-
fissures in the seed coat which allows imbibition. Let the water cool naturally and soak
the seeds in it for 24 hours. Warm water above 122°F (50°C) for 24 hours helps to loosen
the imbibition lid.
Soak the scarified seeds in water for 24 hours and sow in a heated, well lit location. The
soil temperature should be kept at 70°F (21°C) for best results. It is best to put each seed
in its own pot because the new roots are very fragile and prone to tangling. Grow the
seedlings at 60°F (16°C) until they have two or three leaves. Keep young seedlings
indoors until the danger of frost has passed. Harden-off the seedlings by moving them
outside to a protected location and gradually increase the light level and exposure to
cooler temperatures until they are growing in full sun at outside temperatures.
Tissue culture has also been used to propagate Canna but it has been uneconomical
compared to division due to the low perceived value of Canna. Because the level of virus
in most modern Canna is so high, tissue culture has been the savior of many varieties that
would have been otherwise lost.
Because Canna are so tough, you would expect them to be free of pests and diseases in
the garden, but this is not the case.
Slugs, snails, and Japanese beetles would fall into the range of minor pests on Canna.
They damage the plants by chewing holes in the leaves or feasting on the flowers.
Problems with slugs and snails can be virtually eliminated with good organic soil
preparation and by avoiding the use of chemical fertilizers, which kill off many of the
natural snail and slug predators. Similarly, Japanese beetles are seldom a problem when
the plants are growing stress-free in well-prepared soils. If Japanese beetles do appear,
they typically prefer only the canna flowers and can be easily picked up and subjected to
the torture method of your choice.
Without question, the worst pest of Canna is a caterpillar known as the lesser canna leaf-
roller, which is primarily found in the southern US. The canna leaf-roller moth lays eggs
in the bud of the developing stalk. These hatching caterpillars use a sticky webbing to
keep the leaf from unfurling, which protects them from predators and insecticide sprays.
They feed and pupate inside the rolled-up leaf and can cause significant damage to the
developing stalks.
Some Canna are more susceptible to damage by canna leaf-rollers than others. Typically,
the closer to the species the Canna are, the less damage that we see. Canna glauca, for
example, is virtually untouched. The key to controlling canna leaf-rollers is vigilance.
Leaf-rollers can be a problem as early as spring, so keep a close eye for the first sign of
webs holding the newly emerging leaves together. Opening the leaves and removing the
offending caterpillars will work on a small scale, but in larger plantings, you can simply
clip off the top half of the rolled leaf. Insecticides such as Dipel (Bacillus thuringensis)
can be sprayed into the bottom half of the leaf so that it reaches the caterpillars. If the
leaf-roller population is high, you may need to spray throughout the growing season, but
as you reduce the moth population, the need to spray lessens. Again, the key is to monitor
your plants and not allow the larvae to mature, which starts the cycle over again.
Aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies will rarely attack Canna in the garden, but can
sometimes be a problem indoors or in a greenhouse. Again, stress reduction goes a long
way to prevent such attacks, but when appropriate, these pests can be killed with
insecticides (see your county extension office for recommendations). It is better to try to
prevent insect infestation by removing dead foliage and providing a humid environment.
Mice may eat the stored rhizomes and can be treated with baits or traps.
In hot, humid climates Canna can develop a fungal problem called canna rust. It forms
rusty-orange colored pustules spread by splashed water on the back of the leaves which
eventually turn black and die. Canna rust is difficult to control but there are fungicidal
sprays that can prevent it from starting. Here at Plant Delights Nursery and Juniper Level
Botanic Garden, we remove the rust covered leaves and destroy them ... they should
never be added to your mulch pile!
Along with leaf-rollers canna viruses are the most serious cultivation problem. Canna
viruses are easily passed from plant to plant by sucking insects such as aphids and then
spread by unsanitary division techniques. Virus can cause spotted or streaked leaves,
stunted growth, and distorted blooms. Low levels will not kill the plant but they may
reduce its vigor. In most cases, low levels of virus are undetectable and unnoticeable,
except during cool weather. High virus loads, on the other hand, can render Canna so
unattractive, they must be discarded. Because Canna are often carelessly divided, viruses
can easily spread and multiply. Canna are also one of the few plants in which viruses can
also be transmitted by seed. While many of the seed strains are fairly clean of virus, this
is not a guarantee of a virus-free plant. There are several viruses that can infect Canna
including Bean yellow mosaic virus, hippeastrum mosaic virus, tomato aspermy virus,
cucumber mosaic virus, canna yellow streak virus, and most seriously, canna yellow
mottle virus. Most canna cultivars tolerate a certain amount of viral load and will grow
and thrive despite being infected.
As late as 2005, there were virtually no virus-free Canna grown in cultivation, but the
savior came in the form of tissue culture. We had been trying to persuade labs to tackle
the issue of cleaning up the canna virus in the laboratory and finally, Agristarts of Florida
stepped forward. During the tissue culturing process the canna's sterile tissue is subjected
to high heat which causes the developing plant to stretch. The stretched part of the new
tissue is then re-cultured before the virus has a chance to re-infect it. Each new culture is
then checked to make sure the virus isn't still present ... a process called virus-indexing.
This is a time consuming and expensive process ($1000-$5000 per plant) since it often
takes several tries to make sure the tissue is finally clean. Agristarts is continuing their
work and it is our hope that other labs will join them in their goal to bring less virused
stock to the market.
Despite selling clean stock, there is no guarantee that the plants will stay clean once they
are exposed to the environment, but at least we've got a much better quality plant than we
had available in the past. There is no cure for virus infections in Canna other than the
procedure mentioned above or to destroy the infected plant.
Canna Species and Natural hybrids
Canna Cultivars
Plant Delights Nursery is proud to have been the first to name and release several
cultivars of Canna. The following list details our new plant releases: Canna 'Pink
Sunburst', Canna 'Kansas City' (1998), Canna 'Nuance' (2004), Canna 'Thai One On'
(2008), Canna 'Thai Rainbow' (2008).
Below is a short list of some of the interesting cultivars at Plant Delights Nursery and
Juniper Level Botanic Gardens. We strive to grow only the most interesting and
evocative specimens as well as some of the new plants on the market.
Canna 'Benal Tiger' (Bengal Tiger Canna) (syn: Canna 'Aureostriata' or Canna 'Pretoria')
Imported from India in 1963 by the Glasshouse Works guys, this is considered to be the
most beautiful of Canna. The dramatic stalks of green-and yellow-striped leaves with a
brilliant maroon edge grow to 6' and are topped in summer with bright orange flowers ...
scrumptious! Canna 'Benal Tiger' will also grow in water as an aquatic. (Hardiness Zone
7b-10)
Canna 'Reine Charlotte' (Reine Charlotte Canna) (aka: Canna 'Königin Charlotte')
This deliciously tacky canna hybrid from the late 1800s is still one of our favorites. The
small, brilliant red flowers, outlined with a wide band of bright yellow are held atop 4'
tall stalks throughout the summer months ... a real showstopper. (Hardiness Zone 7b-10)
Canna 'Tropicanna Black' PPAF (Tropicanna Black Canna - syn: Canna 'Lon01')
This new canna was introduced without a valid cultivar name ... sorry guys. 'Lon01' isn't
valid, so we have renamed it Canna 'Tropicanna Black'. Understanding that cultivar
names should be real words must be harder than I thought. Canna 'Tropicanna Black' is
the latest addition to the splendid black foliage canna selections. The shiny dark purple
leaves, which are wider but not as dark as Canna 'Australia', make a nice 4' tall clump,
topped with stalks of bright vermillion-red flowers from early summer until fall.
(Hardiness Zone 7b-10)
Conclusion
Canna are worthy garden perennials for any southern garden, and with a little extra care,
a great addition to gardens in northern areas too. This flowering perennial brings an
exotic beauty to sunny garden sites with its showy flowers and tropical (sometimes very
colorful) leaves. Go on-line today and buy one of these incredible, exotic plants for
yourself. Plant it in your garden, sit back, and enjoy the show. Don't let anyone tell you
that Canna are passè or hard to grow. Ignore them and just remember, "You Canna if you
Wanna"!
You may be asking yourself, 'What is the best canna for me?'
If you want an incredible variegated plant, try Canna 'Phasion', Canna 'Stuttgart', Canna
'Benal Tiger', Canna 'Pink Sunburst', or Canna 'Thai Rainbow'.
For dramatic purple foliage choose Canna 'Australia', Canna 'Intrigue', Canna
'Constitution' or Canna 'Tropicanna Black'.
If you want eye-popping saturated flower color, try Canna 'Minerva', Canna 'Pacific
Beauty', or Canna 'Orange Punch'.
For a more demure look choose the pastel colored Canna 'Ermine', Canna 'Thai One On',
or Canna glauca 'Panache'.
If you want to party like it's 1849, select a Victorian era foliage Canna, such as Canna
'Musafolia' or Canna indica 'Red Stripe'.
References
Avent, Tony (1992), Leaves that Light up the Garden -- Variegated Plants, Originally
published in the Fall 1992 issue of Fine Gardening Magazine.
Avent, Tony (1997), Gardening With Hardy Tropicals, Originally published in the News
& Observer, May 24,1997. www.plantdelights.com/Tony/tropicals.html
Canna News, List of Cultivar Groups, www.cannanews.blogspot.com/2007/04/canna-
cultivar-groups.html
Cooke, I (2001), The Gardeners Guide to Growing Canna, Timber Press, Portland OR
Tanaka, N. (2001), Taxonomic revision of the family Cannaceae in the New World and
Asia, Makinoa ser. 2, 1:34.43.
Tanaka, N. et. al. (2009), Karyological analysis of the genus Canna (Cannaceae), Plant
Systematics and Evolution, Vol. 280(1-2), Pp. 45-51