Welcome to EuroCanals Guides 2007

Updated: December 1, 2006

This e-book of waterways guides is intended to offer readers located
in countries around the world a resource for planning cruises on the
canals and rivers of Europe at the helm of their own vessel.

I suggest that you start with an overview of the European waterways

in “ A Grand Tour of Europe by Private Barge”. This is a slide show of
photos and maps showing a suggested route of contiguous waterways
that includes all of the primary countries of Europe which can be
reached by inland waterway (Netherlands, Belgium, France, Luxembourg
& Germany) and also a brief coverage of England (requiring a cross-
channel trip.) It gives an overview of where it is possible to go
on your own vessel, a beginning of the planning process.

If you prefer to go directly to a guide for a specific waterway, use the

Bookmarks panel at the left of this screen; point to your choice and
click on it to go there. To begin the Grand Tour slideshow, use the arrow
below to go to the next page.
.....Tom Sommers
 A Grand Tour of Europe by Private Barge
The Plan: Travel through as
much of the European waterway
system as possible, and as many
England countries as possible, without
NL
Germany leaving protected inland waters.
Belgium
Luxembourg
We visit five countries:
The Netherlands
Belgium
France France
Luxembourg
Germany

..and perhaps a cross-channel

trip to England
Our tour starts in Harlingen, a seaport in Friesland, northern Netherlands;
an excellent place to purchase a vessel for the trip.
DeHaan & Broese is one of the top brokers of barges in NL,
located on the town harbor; window-shoppers welcome.
On the top end of the barge scale, consider a 30 meter Dutch Barge;
suitable for a group of 6 to 8 people.
Or a more manageable 18 meter barge, with plenty of space
for a couple plus occasional guests.
It is even possible to be comfortable on a 9 meter canal cruiser.
It’s common to find quite a few vessels marked with a sign “Te Koop”
meaning For Sale By Owner; the Catharina was one of these.
 The dark line shows a
suggested route through NL
which includes:

• Countryside, narrow canals

& small towns in Friesland,
Overijssel, Flevoland,
Utrecht and Zuid Holland

• Interesting Cities:
Amsterdam, Utrecht,
Gouda, Maastricht

• Peaceful, slow river: Vecht

• Busy thru-route river: Maas

• Broad commercial canal:

Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal
 Many barge
buyers find that they spend an
entire season visiting the small towns
of Friesland, Overijssel & Flevoland
before heading south to
France..

Some towns will have a free quay

available, or there are many marinas
along the canals, with full services.
 Friesland and
Overijssel are the
“Land of Lakes”,
especially in the
popular area
around the town
of Sneek.
A typical scene in The Netherlands: cruising alongside a farm with sheep
and a windmill, with modern office buildings visible behind the fields.
Winter days can be rainy, or clear, cold and breezy as seen here.
Sneek

The route to
Amsterdam can include
a day to either bypass
or traverse a “polder”,
an area reclaimed from
the sea and kept dry by
pumps.
AMSTERDAM

When visiting Amsterdam it’s best to moor at Sixhaven Marina

and use the free ferry for a short ride to Centraal Station.
Water taxis such as the Museumboot are a good way to
tour the canals of the city.
 Sixhaven Marina

Amstel river Another marina is located

south on the Amstel river
 The canals of Amsterdam offer
great walking for viewing barges.

It’s possible to cruise on the canals

of the city on your own boat,
with some restrictions on size
and time of travel.
 East of Amsterdam, the Vecht river route from Muiden
south to Utrecht is one of the most beautiful in Europe.
The hotel barge “Golden Odyssey”
cruising on the Vecht
 An enjoyable side trip from
Utrecht is through the small
canals, lakes and natural
areas of the “Green Heart”
of Holland.

Follow the Oude Rijn river west to

Woerden and Bodegraven;
Return through Gouda and Oudewater
along the Hollandse Ijssel river.
 In Holland the bridges are operated by the
local government; some will charge a small toll.
 Many of the passages on the small canals
are one boat at a time, mind the traffic lights.
 The Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal is a broad straight line southeast from
Amsterdam & Utrecht, connecting to the Rhine river near Nijmegen.
 At Nijmegen a short canal
connects the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal
to the Maas river, which our route
follows upstream through the
Limburg province, with the German
and Belgian borders close alongside.

Just south of Maastricht, at the

border of Belgium, the river is
known by its French name, the
Meuse.

Maastricht
has been called
“The Paris of Holland.”
 Belgium
The river Maas enters the
French-speaking Wallonie
province of Belgium for a trip
to France in two parts:
first busy and modern, then
peaceful and beautiful.

The section from Liège to

Namur is a busy industrial area
with heavy barge traffic.

South of Namur the river twists

and turns through the wooded
cliffs of the Ardennes forest.
The Belgian city of Liège is a commercial and industrial center;
it’s not a favorite stop for barge travelers.
The Meuse at Huy, between Liege & Namur
Namur, located at the junction of the Meuse & Sambre rivers, is the
capital of Wallonie. Its most important feature is the hilltop Citadel.
 Dinant, on the Meuse, has its own citadel atop a 100-meter cliff.
Cathedral Notre Dame is surrounded by waterfront houses and restaurants.
Scenery like this is prevalent south of Dinant and
along the many turns of the river into France
 France ...in four legs:
A. From the Belgian border to
Paris via Champagne country.

B. Through Burgundy to
A
St-Jean-de-Losne, the “center
B
D of the French waterways”.

C. Down the Rhone to

southwestern France; Midi,
Bordeaux & return.
C
D. Across Franche-Comté to
Strasbourg, west to Nancy,
then north on the Moselle
river to Germany.
Waterways of France EuroCanals Guides
for France:
1. Grand Gabarit canals,
rivers Lys, Deule, Scarpe,
& Escaut
2. Rivers Oise & Sambre
3. Meuse river, Canal de l’Est
4. Canal de la Marne au Rhin
5. Alsace & Lorraine-Est
6. Canal du Rhone au Rhin
7. Canal de Bourgogne
8. Canal du Nivernais
9. Canaux du Centre
10. Marne river,
Champagne region
11. River Seine
12. Canal de la Somme
13. Canals of Brittany
14. Rivers Garonne, Baise, Lot,
Canal lateral a la Garonne
15. Canal du Midi
16. River Lot Amont
17. Camargue,
Canal du Rhone a Sete
18. Canals & rivers of Paris
 Leg A: Givet to Paris
This leg includes two very
beautiful rivers, the Meuse and
the Marne, as well as several
opportunities to visit the
towns and vineyards of the
Champagne region.
On the river Meuse

Champagne
region
A favorite stop soon after entering
France on the twisting Meuse is at
the town of Revin.
 The city of Reims is an excellent midway
stop on this leg, for a tour of the cathedral
and visits to the Champagne Caves of
Mumm, Taittinger, Piper Heidsieck,
Veuve Clicquot and others.
The route then joins the Marne river,
which passes through the heart of the
Champagne vineyards and wineries from
Reims cathedral Epernay to Chateau Thierry.
Entering Paris on the Seine, at Ile St Louis
 Private barges are welcome in the center of Paris, where
moorings are available on the Seine or in the Arsenal marina.
Seine
The “Halte Concorde” right in
the center of Paris
The Halte Grenelle is also well-located, a short walk from the Eiffel Tower
The best way to see Paris by boat is to circle the city on the
Seine, Canal St Martin and Canal St Denis.
Arsenal Marina, Bastille Metro Station
Entrance of the 2-kilometer tunnel of the Canal St Martin,
under Place de la Bastille
Northern end of the tunnel, near Place de la Republique
The beautiful arched footbridges over Canal St Martin
are frequently used as a movie set.
Leg B: Loire/Burgundy

The rivers and canals south of

Paris in the Loire valley and
Burgundy are the most
popular in France
(along with the Canal du Midi)
for pleasure cruising, especially
the Canal du Nivernais and the
Canal de Bourgogne.

Our destination is St Jean de

Losne, the base for the next
two legs of the voyage.
 The route shown has been selected to
visit the best of the area, not for the
fastest passage to southern France.
For that purpose, continue south from
Nevers directly to St Jean de Losne
via the Canal du Centre and
the Saone river.

Burgundy

Loire Valley
Hotel Barge on the Canal de Briare
Chanterelle’s cocktail cruise at dusk on the
canal bridge over the Loire at Briare
Crossing the 343-meter canal bridge over the river Allier
A “ville fleurie” on the Loire side of the Canal du Nivernais
The old swing-beam lock gates on the Yonne side of the Canal du Nivernais
A couple of 8 to 12 passenger hire boats on the Nivernais
Early morning at Marcilly-sur-Yonne
Following another boat into a lock
In the lock at Chatel Censoir
Auxerre, northern end of the Canal du Nivernais
St Vinnemer, on the Canal de Bourgogne
The port of Dijon, in walking distance of the city center.
Between Dijon & St Jean de Losne
the canal is straight and flat.
St Jean de Losne is widely known as “the center of the French waterways”:
Saone river, Canal de Bourgogne & Canal du Rhone au Rhin intersect here.
St Jean de Losne is the home of the three major brokers of barges and canal
cruisers in France: H2O, Bourgogne Marine & Luxemotor Club.
There are several harbors available for wintering of foreign-owned vessels.
This one, operated by H2O, is a disused canal and lock.
 Leg C: To southwestern France
& return

Although it requires a trip

down the Saone & Rhone
rivers (and return), the
Canaux des Deux Mers
connecting the Atlantic Ocean
to the Med is an essential part
Saone of our cruise through Europe.
river

Rhone
river
High seasonal flow rates on the
Rhone river require careful planning
and/or waiting in port.
 “Home Sweet Home”
at Verdun-sur-le-Doubs, just off the river Saone
Waterways of Southwestern France
Beaucaire port, Canal du Rhone a Sete
The hotel barge Sherborne moored for the winter
on the Canal de la Robine.
Village of Poilhes, Canal du Midi
Le Somail, a very popular stop
on the Midi
 Capestang port,
a good wintering port but always full
Oval locks are common on
the Midi but rare elsewhere
 Traveling back to the north on the Rhone & Saone
rivers is against the current. Careful planning is required to avoid
high water periods; August-September is often the best time.
 Leg B: Eastern France

Moselle river
Canal de la Marne
au Rhin

Rhine river

Canal du Rhone au Rhin

...the canalized river Doubs
Exiting a lock on the river Doubs
A lock and weir on the river Doubs
The Bargee’s Chapel on the Canal
du Rhone au Rhin, branche nord,
a short distance south of
Strasbourg.

Traveling boats can tie up on

the canal’s east bank for a
visit to a very peaceful and
beautiful place.
La Petite France, Strasbourg
Winter mooring near Lutzelbourg, Canal de la Marne au Rhin
Rental boat entering the Niderviller tunnel,
Canal de la Marne au Rhin
The Crown Blue Line rental boat base at Hesse,
on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin
A large river barge on the river Moselle,
headed south towards Nancy
 Germany ...a quick taste or a longer tour:
A. From the French border to The
Netherlands via the Mosel & Rhine
rivers or other canals.
D

D
C B. Across Germany to Berlin via the
A
Mittelland Kanal.
B
B C. Cruises into Berlin and through
A the lakes of Mecklenburg &
Brandenburg.

A D. A choice on the Elbe river:

northwest to Hamburg and the
North Sea or south to return via the
E
Mittelland Kanal.

E. An alternate entry from France:

down the Rhine from Strasbourg.
 Waterways of
Germany

The inland waterways of

Germany are dominated
by rivers, with a few
canals in the northwest
and a major connecting
canal across the north
of the country to Berlin.
An alternate route continues north on
canals into the northeastern corner
of NL, the Drenthe province.

Leg A: Mosel & Rhine rivers

Our route leaves France on the
Moselle river, which becomes the
Mosel as it forms the border of
Luxembourg and Germany.
This beautiful river twists between
steep hillsides covered with
vineyards through Rheinland to a
junction with the Rhine at Koblenz.
The Rhine flows north into central
Netherlands.
There are no waterways into Luxembourg,
and none directly connecting Belgium and
Germany.
The hilltop castle at Cochem, on the river Mosel.
A large commercial barge entering a lock on the Mosel.
 Leg B: Across northern Germany to Berlin

Mittelland Kanal

East of the Elbe the waterway is

A canal bridge (completed in 2003)
the Elbe-Havel Kanal, passing
carries traffic over the river Elbe near
through the cities of Brandenburg,
Magdeburg.
Potsdam and Berlin.
 Glienicker Bridge, looking north on the Havel, where during
the Cold War the East and the West exchanged agents and spies.
 Leg C: Berlin and
Mecklenburg-
Brandenburg

The northeastern corner

of Germany is a vast
network of canals, rivers and
lakes both large and small.

Framed by two long north-flowing rivers, the Elbe on the western side and the
Oder on the east, the regional rivers that twist through Mecklenburg-
Brandenburg-Berlin often begin at a lake and then widen into many more
interlinked small lakes and river sections along the way. There are a few major
routes with commercial barge traffic, but it is easy to find a waterway for leisure
cruising and quiet, pleasant moorings.
A “real steamer” and a modern tour boat in the center of Berlin.
 Leg D: Return to
The Netherlands

The inland route to

NL from the
Mecklenburg lakes is
to travel south then
west on the Mittelland
Kanal then into the
The Netherlands via
the Rhine or canals.

Vessels that are suitable for coastal travel can stop at Hamburg and then on to
the North Sea. And then what? West along the coast to NL or east through
the Kiel Canal into the Baltic Sea for a cruise to Copenhagen, across the
peninsula of Sweden on the Gota Canal and even into the lakes of Finland!
Leg E: Down the Rhine from Strasbourg

An alternate, more direct route from

eastern France to The Netherlands
would be to enter the Rhine at
Strasbourg and travel north down
the river. The last lock is at
Iffezheim; north from that point
there is only open river.

However, depending on the flow of

the river, it can be a stressful trip. The
section between Mainz and Koblenz
includes the Rhine Gorge, the site of
the Lorelei rock. This route will
usually require the services of an
experienced and properly licensed
skipper.
 In the Rhine Gorge, near the Lorelei rock

The unladen barge (black) is traveling downstream very fast while the
heavily loaded (white) barge is pushing slowly against the current.
 After returning to
The Netherlands, another
pleasant season of cruising
then what?

How about crossing the channel

to England?
From central Holland, the next important visit is the city of Antwerp.
Most travelers stopover a day or more at Willemstad & Tholen.
Several days can be reserved for visits to the old cities of Gent & Brugge.
Brugge is a city of canals, although you cannot cruise them on your own
boat; small guided tour boats are a pleasant alternative.
Some liveaboard barges moor on the Kanal Gent-
Oostende, which loops around the east of Brugge.
Visitors can tie up on the Coupure, a disused canal which ends very near
the center of Brugge, a convenient location and pleasant stopover place.
 Crossing to England
To Thames Estuary Nearly any vessel can cross to England,
& London
if careful planning is done and you are
willing to wait for suitable weather
conditions. Several port pairs are available.

Nieuwpoort or Oostende,
Belgium
 Waterways of England
Visiting boaters can travel most
of the Thames river and across to
Bristol via canal, but the Grand
Union Canal to the Midlands is
restricted at Birmingham &
Northampton by narrow (7 ft
wide) locks
The entrance to London... Tower Bridge
 Thames River

The Thames river from London to Oxford offers an excellent cruising area.
A visiting Dutch Barge moored near Tower Bridge
Narrowboat near Oxford
 The London Ring

It’s possible to cruise a circular ring around and through London,

a very interesting way to visit the city
Narrowboats moored
in central London,
on the London Ring
Ready to go? Details of all of the waterways mentioned in this tour are included in the
EuroCanals Guides which follow. Use the Bookmarks panel at left as an index, just click on
a subject of interest to go to that page.
The first chapters discuss the various ways to travel on the European waterways:
• Self-Skippered Cruising for one week or more at the helm of a rented boat.
• Hotel & Charter Barges, again for one week or more, with a full-service crew.
• River Cruise Ships, again for one week or more, for long-distance travel with full services.
• Your Own Vessel in Europe, for long-term travel or live-aboard on a vessel that you purchase.
The next section, “Waterways of Europe”, includes maps of the waterways in 19 countries,
useful for laying out a multi-country trip, along with details of the types of vessels and how to
use the waterways.
The heart of the e-book is in the guides for individual countries and for the major waterways
within each country. Go first to the overall guide for each country: “Waterways of ...” France,
Belgium, Netherlands, England, Germany, Italy. These guides give sufficient detail to enable
you to put together a cruising plan and estimate the time, distance and fuel requirements.
Then you can read about many of the specific waterways along the route, locating them by
name from the index: “Canal du Nivernais”, “Canal du Midi”, etc.
The balance of the e-book is a series of articles about buying and owning a vessel in Europe,
then Glossaries of related terms, finally Links to other waterway-related websites.
Don’t hesitate to write to me with questions: tomsom@eurocanals.com
CRUISING IN EUROPE
CRUISING IN EUROPE
The waterways of Europe can be enjoyed in many ways. Whether you are planning a holiday, an
extensive cruise or a complete live-aboard lifestyle, traveling on the canals and rivers of Europe
offers a relaxing, comfortable means to enjoy the cities and beautiful rural areas.

EuroCanals Guides can help you plan your adventure in one or more of these ways:

• Self-Skippered Cruising
• Hotel Barges
• Full-Boat Charter Barges
• River Cruise Ships
• Your Own Vessel
• Walking
• Bicycling
• Canoeing or Kayaking

These options are briefly described on the next few pages. Suggestions regarding places to stay
while on an extended walking, biking or canoeing trip will be added to future updates.

To view a map, at any time, of the waterways in a particular country of interest, select it from the
Bookmarks index at left.
Cost Comparison
It is difficult to compare the costs of these various ways to enjoy the waterways because there are so
many variables involved. However, the following comments (based on a one-week cruise) may help:

Self-Skippered: The advantage here is that you pay one price for the boat and can bring as many
guests as will conveniently fit aboard. $500 to $2,500, no meals, activities or transfers included.

Hotel Barge: Rates are per person, double occupancy. Meals, activities and transfers are included.
$1,490 to $4,150.

Full-Boat Charter Barge: Again, one price pays for everybody. Meals, activities and transfers are
included. $10,000 to $50,000.

River Cruise Ship: Rates are per person, double occupancy. Meals are included, activities and
transfers extra. $685 to $4,700.

Your Own Vessel: Initial prices can be as low as $15,000 for a small cruiser suitable for a couple to
over $1 million for a lavish refit of a commercial barge. The cost of maintenance is variable,
depending on whether the owners do most of their work or use boatyards. Actual travel costs are
reasonable, since the slow speeds mean very low fuel usage; license and docking fees will be
charged relative to the size of the vessel.
Self-Skippered Cruising
In the Caribbean, this would be called bareboating; the British call it hire boats. We have decided to
use self -skippered, as used by many companies that rent boats without captain or crew. In France, this
is advertised as sans permis, meaning that the skipper will not need to be licensed (and that the rental
operator has paid the necessary fees for use of the canals.) A brief lesson at the base, perhaps followed
by accompaniment for a short portion of the trip, will acquaint the skipper and crew with the operation
of the boat and the “rules of the road” for the waterway to be traveled.

Once underway, the skipper is in full control of the itinerary. Each day’s travel can be as short or as
long as desired, with stops for sightseeing, dining and overnight stays usually decided as you go. The
only limits are the schedule of locks that must be passed through and the need to return the boat at the
agreed place and time. In some locations, the rental operator will limit the waterways that can be used,
to prevent travel in hazardous areas (this includes the major rivers.)

Going ashore for dining, provisioning or sightseeing is done on foot, on bicycles (which can usually be
rented at the start of the cruise) or by taxi (not generally available in rural areas.) In most areas, the
boat can be moored anywhere along the banks of the waterway. Many towns and cities offer a quai
(stone or concrete bank) or a port, sometimes with water, electricity, showers and laundromat available.
Boats are available for families or groups of 2 to 10 passengers. At least one person will need to be
physically able to go ashore easily for the handling of lines during mooring or locking. Initial or
complete provisioning can usually be ordered in advance from the base, however a major part of the
enjoyment of the trip is shopping at local stores or at the many regional market days. The boats will be
fitted with toilets and showers (some with bathtubs), often one per cabin.

Navigation is not difficult, since the trip is usually in a confined waterway. The base will supply a chart
and guide that will give detailed information for navigation, restaurants, shopping, sightseeing and
mooring. The better rental bases will send you a chart with the contract, for pre-planning your cruise.
What is a Self-Skippered Cruise?
A family or group can rent a boat that they will operate themselves, traveling at their own speed and
agenda. The rental base staff will provide a full checkout of the details of the particular boat, followed
by a brief lesson and, in some cases will accompany you for a short portion of the trip. After that, your
cruise is entirely on your own.
Do I need a license to operate the boat?
No, operator’s license requirements are waived for a certified rental boat. The rental base has paid the
fees charged for use of the waterway.
Do I need previous boating experience?
No. Even first-timers will find that the boats are remarkably easy to handle. Travel will be in canals
and controlled waterways, so navigation skills are unnecessary. The rental base staff will provide a
chart of the area and they should review it with you to explain your cruising and mooring options.
How big are the boats?
Boats are available for 2 to 10 passengers. The length varies from 9 to 15 meters (30 to 50 feet.) The
classic style is long and narrow, a beam of 3 to 4 meters (10 to 13 feet.) Motorcruisers may have a
beam approaching 5 meters (16 feet.)

Where can I dock the boat?

You can usually moor the boat anywhere you like (some short areas are restricted because of the
narrow waterway.) The boat can be tied-up along the banks of the waterway using stakes furnished
on the boat. There are often mooring facilities in towns and villages, usually free. Water and
electricity are sometimes available; there may be a charge for their use. In large cities, marinas offer
docking facilities at reasonable fees.
Is it difficult to get through the locks?
While the skipper needs to be alert and plan the approach into the lock, it is not difficult and becomes
quite enjoyable with a little experience. It is best if at least one member of the crew is physically able
to handle the lines that will hold the boat in place while the lock is filling or draining. Often the lock
keeper or other bystanders will offer to take the line and pass it around a bollard.

How fast does the boat go?

Most canals and waterways have speed limits and most rental boats are designed to operate within the
limit, usually no more than 4 to 8 miles per hour. Walkers on the towpath can keep up with the travel
of the boat.

What happens if I have a problem with the boat?

The rental base staff is always available by telephone and can be contacted for immediate assistance.
A mechanic will be sent if necessary. Because the length of the trip is not far from the base,
assistance can arrive by road very quickly.

Where can we get provisions?

Initial provisioning is available by an advance order to the rental base. Shopping along the way at
local outdoor markets and stores is part of the enjoyment of the trip. Many towns and villages have
shopping available within a short walk of the canal, but in some places a bicycle or taxi may be
necessary.
How can we travel on land?
Bicycles can usually be rented from the base at the beginning of the trip. In larger towns and sometimes
at small villages taxis can be called; often there will be a sign with the telephone number at locks and
ports. Rail and bus transportation may be located near the beginning and end of the route.
What are the cabin facilities like?
Single and double berths are often quite comfortable in the sleeping cabins. To reach the full
advertised passenger capacity of the boat, it will be necessary to convert the dinette or lounges into
temporary berths. Look for the statement in brochures “Sleeps 8, comfort 6”; that will most likely
mean three double-berth cabins and the other two berths will be on the converted dinette. Be aware of
the potential inconvenience of this arrangement.
What about bathrooms?
All boats will have at least one toilet, sink and shower; large boats will have two or more of each.
Check the layout before you rent, by looking carefully at the diagram in the brochure or questioning
the booking agent. Many boats will utilize a hand-held shower in the same compartment as the sink
and toilet. The more comfortable arrangement will have the shower in a separate cabin, so that two
people can be using the facility at the same time. A separate shower stall is the most convenient, so
that the bathroom compartment does not become wet and a sometimes-unwieldy wraparound shower
curtain is not needed.
How much baggage can I bring?
Most boats have substantial storage space; it is not always in rectangular spaces, so soft luggage is
best. There are no laundry facilities onboard except hand-wash and clothesline. Laundromats will be
difficult if not impossible to find, so plan enough clothing for the length of the cruise.
Can we swim or fish?
Generally, the canals and rivers are not recommended for swimming, although it can be enjoyed in
some specific locations. Fishing will usually require a license. Consult the rental base staff for advice.
Is there electricity onboard?
All boats will have adequate lighting from the onboard 12-volt system. Power for computers and
other devices may sometimes be available onboard from the boat’s system, but more commonly it is
only available when moored at a port with shore-based connections; it will be 220 volts.
Links to Self-Skippered (Hire Boat) Companies

http://www.kuhnle-tours.de/
http://www.crownblueline.com/

http://www.locaboat.com/

http://www.franceafloat.com/
http://www.connoisseurafloat.com/

http://www.nicols.com/ http://www.hatenboer.nl/
Hotel Barges
These floating hotels offer private staterooms (singles or doubles), some with ensuite bathrooms;
others may share a bathroom. A very popular way to cruise remote country regions in a relaxed,
leisurely manner while in the company of others, a trip will cover very few actual miles but will give
frequent opportunities for tours of nearby historic sites, vineyards, museums and other interesting
waterside activities, with transportation and guides included.

Activities that are available on either type of barge cruise include golf, tennis, riding, ballooning,
hiking, cultural excursions, wine tasting and special events such as tulip season, gardens, antiques,
opera, etc. Onboard features will vary from barge to barge, but may include air conditioning, central
heat, sauna and hot tub. Bicycles are usually provided for the use of guests.

Gourmet meals, wine and open bar are usually included. Transfer by van or rail from, and return to, a
central meeting point such as a Paris hotel is included in the price.

Full-Boat Charter Barges

For families or groups of 2 to 24 that want to travel the waterways in comfort and leave the operation
of the vessel to others, barges can be chartered for your exclusive use. The captain and crew, often a
family themselves, will steer and handle the boat, furnish all meals and will tailor sightseeing and
activities to your desires.
What is a Hotel Barge?
Hotel barges are much smaller versions of a cruise ship, accommodating from 6 to 50 passengers in
single or double staterooms. Bathrooms may be ensuite or shared. Most hotel barge trips include all
gourmet meals with wine, all shore excursions (land transportation is provided), open bar, bicycles
for guest use and other amenities such as hot tub and exercise equipment.

What is a Full-Boat Charter Cruise?

Hotel Barges may be booked exclusively by a single family or group; some barges accept only full-
boat charters. Activities and excursions will be tailored to the desires of the group.

How long are the trips and how fast does the barge travel?
One-week trips are the most common, traveling 60 to 120 kilometers (37 to 74 miles) at a rate of
speed equivalent to a brisk walking pace. The barges do not travel at night, nor do they usually travel
throughout the day; daytime stops are planned for shore excursions. Frequently passengers will
disembark and walk along the towpath when locks are close together, re-boarding at the next lock.

What activities and excursions are available?

Activities may include golf, tennis, horseback riding, ballooning, bicycling and hiking. Excursions
often are to cultural sites, vineyards, museums and chateaux. Special events are planned for the season,
such as tulip cruises in Holland; garden visits in France and England, antique fairs, opera and others.

How do we travel when on land?

A guide will meet guests at a major city; in France, this is usually a Paris hotel, or at another city such
as Lyon. From there, you will be escorted by private van or motor coach or, in some case travel by rail,
to the location of the barge. Guided shore excursions may be walking tours or by private van or motor
coach.
Is physical agility required?
A significant feature of hotel barge travel is that the level of activity is entirely up to the individual
guest. Those who wish to simply sit back and relax are welcome to stay aboard the barge and enjoy
the passing scene. More active types can take off on village walks, longer hikes, bicycling or any of
the activities listed above. Physically impaired persons should discuss their needs with the booking
agent to be sure that the facilities of a particular barge will be suitable.

Will I get seasick?

No, there is no significant rocking of the barge. Barges cruise on canals or other controlled
waterways where there is little or no movement of the water. The gentle motions of the barge when
anchored at night are pleasant and sleep inducing.

Do the cabins have private bathrooms?

Many barges have ensuite bathrooms directly connected to the cabins, with showers and sometimes a
bathtub. Some cabins may utilize shared bathrooms and require access from a hallway. Ask for detail
when booking.
Are there telephones and TV onboard?
Some barges offer satellite TV, but usually telephones and TV are not available because they defeat
the purpose of a relaxing, tranquil cruise. The crew will have a cellular phone for emergencies and
public phones may be found at almost every stop. Of course you may bring your own cellular phone.

Will all dining be on the barge?

Definitely not, most barge trips plan at least one gourmet meal at a highly rated restaurant (the cost is
included in the booked price), often not located directly adjacent to the canal (land transportation is
provided.) Lunch can be on your own in one of the towns along the way.
What clothes should I bring?
Dress is never formal and ties are rare, although most guests enjoy a little “dress-up” for some
dinners. Comfortable, casual attire with sneakers or docksiders onboard is recommended. You should,
of course, dress for the season; evenings will often be cool.

Are children welcome?

In keeping with the relaxed atmosphere on board, children under 17 are usually accepted only on
full-boat charters.

What is the best season for cruising?

Cruises operate spring, summer & fall; the best rates are available in early spring and late fall.
Some barges follow the European custom of closing in July or August.
Is tipping required?
Tipping is at your own discretion; some booking agencies will provide suggested guidelines.

What about the language?

There will always be at least one member of the crew that speaks English; usually most of the crew
is multi-lingual. Guides on excursions will provide commentary in English. During visits to rural
areas, the local people will probably speak only their own dialect but they are often very willing to
communicate with visitors who make an effort to speak at least some of their language.
Links to Hotel Barges

http://www.lareinepedauque.com/
http://www.bargeluciole.com/

http://www.midicruises.com/

http://www.bargeburgundy.com/
River Cruise Ships
Much larger than the barges used for canal cruising, river cruise ships will accommodate 60 to 250
passengers in single or double staterooms. They cover more distance, more quickly and travel the
major rivers of Europe. The emphasis is on sightseeing tours away from the vessel, with the ship itself
serving as a means of transport and a portable hotel.

The advantages as compared to rail or automobile travel include a relaxed way to view scenery that is
frequently beautiful, while unpacking only once and traveling the entire trip in the equivalent of a
pleasant hotel with full services. These ships travel on rivers such as the Danube, Seine, Rhine, Rhone,
Main, Elbe, Po and Mosel, as well as the larger canals of Holland and Belgium.

Grand Canal d’Alsace

(Rhine river)
 Seine

Links to River Cruises

Rhine

http://www.rivercruisetours.com/

http://www.vrcruises.com/

http://eurorivercruises.com/

http://www.maupintour.com/maupin/maupinwaterways/waterways.html
Walking
There are thousands of great spots to
tie-up and go for a walk along the canal,
or into nearby fields and woods.

Canal du Nivernais
Bicycling
The well-maintained towpaths on many canals are perfect for biking along with a boat,
or for an extended excursion by bicycle from inn-to-inn.

Canal de Nantes
à Brest

http://www.bretonbikes.com/
Your Own Vessel in Europe

Traveling on your own vessel is an ideal way to visit Europe and experience the culture
and customs of life in many countries. Cities, villages and countryside are often
very accessible by natural or man-made waterways. Cruisers can travel at their own
speed and on their own route, stopping almost anywhere to spend a night or a week.
You can bring your own affordable hotel right into the center of many major cities,
or find a secluded anchorage amidst peaceful surroundings. If you will use your vessel
for only part of the year, you will be able to find marinas and boatyards that will
provide safe storage (as well as maintenance or restoration) at a reasonable cost.

• Where do you want to cruise?

Most people will have a special interest in a specific area of Europe. France
has a vast network of canals and is well known as a prime country for
canal cruising. The adjacent countries of Belgium, Netherlands and
Germany are all linked directly with France; the choice of vessel can be
similar for all countries in this region. In England, many attractive canals
are extremely narrow, thus the Narrowboat is prevalent there, while in
Ireland and Scotland a river cruiser will be more appropriate.

Do you want to cruise in a concentrated area or would you like to range

further, say to the Mediterranean in the winter and north to the Baltic in the
summer? In the latter case, a vessel capable of safely sailing in open water
is needed, while still being of suitable draft and height to easily negotiate
the canals and locks. You will need to research the limiting dimensions for
the intended waterways, listed in detail in the EuroCanals Guides.
• Do you intend to live aboard year-round?

If so, consider whether you will be in colder areas and will need heat onboard and ice-
free docking. Many foreign boat-owners will use the vessel for only part of the year,
making their needs different from the full-time liveaboard. What will the weather
extremes be while you are onboard the vessel?

• What accommodations are needed for yourself, your family and guests?

Give careful thought to sleeping and toilet facilities for those that will be aboard all of
the time, as well as for occasional guests. Many boats that are advertised as “sleeps 6”
means two double cabins with a toilet for each, while the fifth and sixth passengers
will have to sleep on a converted dinette and will not have a private toilet.
Plan your normal and maximum expected passenger load and decide what you will need
regarding beds, toilets and shower/bath facilities.

• How physically fit are you?

While just about everyone can be sufficiently fit to cruise in Europe, the choice of
vessel depends on the capability of the crew to handle it in all conditions. Cruising
inland waterways is not arduous as compared to open-water sailing but a day or two of
many close-together hand-operated locks can be exhausting for some. So choose
areas and specific canals that minimize the frequency of locks, or that offer automatic
locks.
Also consider whether you will look for a “fixer-upper” or a vessel ready for use. Will
you be able to handle the physical work involved, or will you pay a boatyard to
complete it for you?
• Are you a sailor or a motorboater?
Sailboats are fine on the open seas and lakes, however an auxiliary motor will be needed
on the canals and in most cases the mast will need to be unstepped or removed from the
boat for shipment by land. Draft is also a consideration if the boat has a keel that may be
too deep for many canals. Extended cruising on inland waterways is best done on a
motorboat.
But that doesn’t mean that sailboats are totally excluded, just that proper planning needs
to be done. In the Netherlands a Staande-Mastroute is available and is clearly marked on
the ANWB planning chart; it allows traveling the entire north-south length of the
country with the mast stepped (there are bridges, but they are all lifting type and
overhead wires are kept high.) There are similar open canals in Norway and Sweden
that can be traveled by sailboat, with idyllic lakes for sailing between the canalised
sections.
• If it’s to be a motorboat, should it be a barge or a conventional motorboat?
An easy answer to this question relates to speed; due to speed limits and traffic, all vessels
will have to travel at essentially the same (slow) speed, so a fast motorboat is of no
advantage, unless the inland travel is only for the purpose of getting to open seas where
higher speeds can be used. The other answers will be based on your need for space to
accommodate guests, handling of the vessel by the crew, the degree of restoration work
involved and the aesthetics of the look of the vessel.
The primary question, of course, is how big the vessel should be, which depends on the
waterways to be traveled. A suitable vessel to travel all of the French canals has a maximum
length = 24 meters, width = 5.0 meters, height = 2.7 meters and draft = 1.2 meters. There
are regulatory and practical advantages for vessels less than 15m overall length. The next
step is at 20m and again at 24m, where the rules require a greater level of onboard
equipment and stricter construction, as well as mandatory operator licensing.
To maximize the availability of convenient moorings, select a vessel less than 15 meters.
• What is your budget?
There are these categories of costs to consider:
1) Purchase of a vessel; the range is US$50,000 to US$450,000.
2) Maintenance and restoration of the vessel; these costs must be researched for each vessel.
3) Waterways fees; these vary widely, in France they range from 80 euros to 458 euros per
year, depending on the size (length X width) of the vessel.
4) Operating costs; they can be surprisingly low, as fuel usage is generally very low and
moorings can often be found at no cost.
5) Liveaboard expenses; these will vary with the season and the location.
These parameters will affect not only your choice of the size and type of vessel, but also the
area that will be selected for cruising.
• Will you search through a broker or for-sale-by-owner advertisements?
Probably a combination of both; a preliminary search can be done on the Internet or in
various magazines published in Europe. This will turn up vessels of interest that are
advertised for sale by both brokers and private owners. During a personal visit to Europe,
even a drive along certain waterways may result in finding something of the desired type.

Brokers often have their own website with photos and detailed information on vessels for
sale. In magazines they will show photos, descriptions and prices. In the section “Buying a
barge in The Netherlands” and “... in France” we report on individual brokers, regarding the
types of vessels that they offer, their office location and vessels on display, as well as some
judgement of their reliability based on the experiences of past buyers. Brokers will often
assist with surveying, registering and insuring a vessel, as well as the very important step of
researching previous ownership to assure that there are no mortgages or liens.

It is possible to deal directly with an owner when buying a vessel, however some of the
obstacles include language difficulties and the problems of dealing with documentation.
TIPS ON TRAVELING
IN EUROPE
LANGUAGE
English is used throughout Europe as a second language, especially in major cities and tourist areas.
Proficiency in French, German or Dutch will be helpful, and in some cases absolutely necessary,
however it is possible to "get by" with just a smattering of basic terms and a pocket language
guidebook. The most important terms that will be needed constantly are the numbers, in order to
communicate time or money information. In addition, the national and regional terms (and style) of
greetings should be mastered as soon as possible; by and large, "the natives are friendly", especially if
you are friendly in the first place. Don't hesitate to greet people, with at least a small amount of their
own language. You will find that they will be courteous and helpful if you chat a few moments before
getting to your real needs.

In France, this means starting with Bonjour M'sieu or Bonjour Madame, or when greeting a couple use
the more difficult Bonjour M'sieu'dame. The response will usually be a return Bonjour, followed
immediately by Ca va? (How's it going?) The normal response is Ca va! This can be followed by Tres
bien!

It is the parting comment that can be confusing, for there are many variations. Au revoir is universal,
but here are a few others that we hear:
A plus tard - See you later
A bientot - See you soon
A toute à l'heure - See you at the agreed time, See you later
A demain - See you tomorrow
A ce soir - See you tonight
A la semaine prochaine - See you next week
A lundi - See you on Monday
Bonne journée - Have a nice day
Bonne nuit - Good night
TIME AND DATE
The 24-hour time system is used in Europe, rather than the 12-hour AM/PM system. Therefore the
hours after 12:00 noon (midi) are 13:00, 14:00, etc. The hour after midnight (minuit) is 0:00. This
works fine on digital clocks, however 12-hour clocks and watches with hour & minute hands are used
everywhere, so it is common to say á deux heures "at 2 o'clock" or “á sept heures "at 7 o'clock" for
afternoon or evening appointments.

Some of my American friends find it difficult to deal with the 24-hour clock, but I think that it makes it
much easier to know the current time in the USA; I simply subtract six hours for the east coast and
nine hours for west coast time. It is a lot faster to subtract eight hours from 15:00 = 07:00 than trying
to subtract eight hours from 3:00PM: "Let's see, that's 3 hours back to noon, then 5 hours more, 12
minus 5 = 7:00".

Dates are written in the format day/month/year. This causes me continual problems because I also use
the American system of month/day/year every day on the Internet. A two-digit date is no problem, in
France it is 21/10/03, but it is very confusing when the date is 9/8/03; is that Sept 8 or Aug 9? In such
situations I generally write out the complete date in words, just to be clear.
CLOSING HOURS
On our first visits to France we were caught off guard by the closing schedule of shops and restaurants,
to the point of not being able to buy food when we had planned. We were surprised to find this to be
true in Paris, not just in the tiny villages; both the supermarkets and small specialty shops often close
Sunday and Monday. Many shops of all types continue to follow the traditional schedule, closing for a
one or two hour midday break and closing all of one weekday, most commonly Mondays, but it can be
any other day as well. Surprisingly, this is even true of some large supermarkets and other chain stores.

Some towns will be almost totally closed on Mondays. Even most of the cafes are closed. However the
boulangeries (bakeries), because a daily bread is absolutely essential to the French, coordinate their
closing schedule so that at least one is open every day. In smaller villages there will be only one such
shop, so sometimes bread is sold at a nearby café or newsstand on that day, designated as a depot de
pain. La Poste in most towns and cities is open all day Monday through Friday and Saturday mornings,
however they are usually closed for an hour or more at midday.

Because small businesses are operated day after day by the same staff, they close down for several
weeks each year for annual vacations (vacances, congés, fermeture annuelle), usually in August but in
tourist areas it will more likely be in May, June, September or October.

The point is, plan ahead, and don't get caught short of provisions. If you are in one place you will soon
get to know the schedule, but if you are cruising it is even more important to be stocked up and
flexible. And don't forget about the schedule for locks, check the guidebook and back that up by asking
a lock-keeper. Be aware of national holidays; I use a calendar downloaded from www.timeanddate.com
That website offers a "Calendar Generator" for any country, showing their holidays.
MONEY
The primary currency that you will encounter is the Euro, written as the symbol € or as euro and most
commonly pronounced as "oo-ro" rather than "you-ro". It is currently being used in 12 countries of the
European Union: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg,
Portugal, Spain, and The Netherlands. EU countries Denmark and Sweden have voted not to enter the
"Euro Zone" and the United Kingdom is still considering a possible referendum. (Switzerland and
Norway are not members of the EU or the Euro Zone.)

The currency is available as printed banknotes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros; a 1-euro note is
proposed and is currently being debated. Coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents as well as 1 and 2 euros
are commonly used. For complete information on the Euro, go to www.euro.ecb.int
The euro is roughly equivalent to one US dollar, however the exchange rate varies significantly. In my
experience since the euro was introduced in 2000, I have been able to obtain 1 euro for as little as 89
cents US and as much as $1.26 US, a variation of almost 42 %! A convenient online currency converter
for determining the current status can be found at www.xe.com/ucc

The best way to obtain the euro currency is to utilize one of the ubiquitous Automatic Teller Machines
(in France, distributeur aux billets.) I have personally obtained all of my daily funds by using the cash-
dispensing machines, even to the point of making several withdrawals to obtain cash that I then
deposited in my French bank account (the fees are substantially less than for an electronic transfer
directly to the account, and the exchange rate is good.)

Note that a decimal comma is used instead of decimal point, while the point (dot) is used to separate
thousands; for example: 1.980,20 € = one thousand nine hundred eighty euros and 20 cents. 4,42€ =
four euros and forty-two cents
CREDIT CARDS
"Foreign" credit cards (that is, from any country other than the one you are in) such as VISA,
MasterCard and American Express are widely (but not universally) accepted at hotels, restaurants and
shops.
Note these cautions:
· Check with your credit card company before traveling to advise them of your itinerary and to be sure
that the issuer will allow charges and cash-machine transactions in those countries.
· Be aware that your card may be "frozen" at any time by suspicions of fraud, triggered by actions that fit
certain security profiles. It will be inconvenient to get this removed while traveling. (One potential
trigger that may freeze your account is to have a charge processed in your own country, say a normal
monthly billing, on the same day that you make a charge in Europe.)
· Shops that will accept a VISA/MC from their own country may not accept foreign cards of the same
brand (for instance, 24-hr self-service fuel stations will accept only local cards.)
BANKING
If you intend to have your own vessel in Europe or will be making frequent trips, financial
transactions will be made much easier by opening a bank account in the country where you expect to
spend most of your time, or even accounts in several countries. Opening an account will be difficult or
impossible unless you have a residence address in each country. If you are buying a vessel through a
broker, perhaps he can help with his banking contacts.

One Dutch bank, ABN-AMRO, offers many services to clients from other countries and comes highly
recommended by those who have purchased vessels in the Netherlands. They have an informative
website at https://www.abnamro.nl/nl/particulier/engels_expats.html

Residents of Ireland or the UK should investigate Britline:

http://www.britline.com/
TAXES
That is, Value-Added Taxes (similar to sales taxes in the USA), not income or property taxes that may be
due in Europe; this report assumes that you are here to spend money, not earn it, and also doesn't cover
residential property that you may purchase.

VAT (in French, TVA) is included in the sales price of all items, so the price shown on a tag is the final
price; it is not added on top of the total at checkout, as is common in the USA. But the tax amount is
shown separately on all receipts, invoices and printed advertisements, by including both the HT and TTC
amounts. HT stands for Hors Taxes meaning "outside of taxes"; TTC stands for Touts Taxes Compris,
meaning "all taxes included".

The tax rate varies by country; in France it is a rather shocking 19.6%, however it applies only at the time
of first sale. All used items (including boats!) are not taxed when resold.
TIPPING
This is a question that arises frequently. The general answer is that most of the time a percentage fee for
service has already been included in the bill. It is common to directly give the server a very small
amount, usually the small change returned by the cashier, if the service warrants it. 5% of the bill is
reasonable, or 10% for good service; 15 or 20% as is common in the USA would be over-tipping.
Sometimes the coins are placed in a jar or box, either by the customer or the clerk, so that the entire
staff shares tips.

When personal services are performed without a specific charge, such as by a lock-keeper or porter, a
small tip is appropriate. "Small" means one or two euros, five euros would be a big tip. Or, of course,
tip with cigarettes, drinks, candies, or other items rather than cash. You will almost never see anyone
waiting for a tip, certainly not with a palm extended. Tips are truly optional and are appreciated but not
expected or demanded.
PASSPORTS, VISAS, BORDER CHECKS
With the exception of a few travelers who choose to cross the English Channel or North Sea between
Britain and the continent, cruising the inland waterways of Europe is most commonly done in, and
among, the countries of France, Belgium, Germany and The Netherlands. Crossing the borders between
these countries became much easier in 1995 when the Schengen treaty was signed, eliminating border
checks at the common borders of 15 countries. Visitors can travel freely across these borders after
clearing through Customs and Immigration procedures at the point of first arrival.

For citizens of the United States intending to stay in these countries three months or less, a valid USA
passport is the only requirement; it is not necessary to obtain a visa in advance. Citizens of some
countries may need to apply for the "Schengen Visa".

Technically, the rules state "The stay in the Schengen area should not exceed 90 days in a 6 month
period." For longer stays, a visa may be required. Regardless of which country you first enter, you
should apply for a long-stay visa valid in the country where you will be spending the most time. You do
this by contacting their embassy in your country of residence, BEFORE traveling to Europe.

The name "Schengen" originates from a small town in Luxembourg where the treaty was signed. The
fifteen Schengen countries are: Austria, Denmark, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Iceland, Italy,
Greece, Luxembourg, Netherlands, Norway, Portugal, Spain and Sweden. All of these countries except
Norway and Iceland are European Union members. Note that the United Kingdom is not included.

Full details, and an application form, are available at www.eurovisa.info/

PASSPORTS, VISAS, BORDER CHECKS
The requirements for a long-stay visa vary slightly by country, however they generally include:

· Passport with a validity date that extends at least 3 months past the end of your intended stay
· Proof of sufficient funds to cover the cost of your intended stay
· Medical Insurance valid in the countries that you will visit
· A return airline ticket
· Police report from your home jurisdiction showing a clean record

It is possible that some of these items may be demanded at the time of entry or in the event of an
incident attracting the attention of an authority, regardless of the length of your intended stay or visa
status. Some visitors, however, enter on their passport and simply "stay over" beyond the 90-day limit.
No authority will be "checking up" on you, your presence will not be officially noted unless there is an
incident that requires interaction with the authorities.

When crossing a border aboard a vessel, it will be necessary in most cases to stop and present the
vessel's documents, including insurance certificate, and pay any waterway-usage fees that may be
appropriate, but your passport/visa (as well as your skipper's license) will not normally be requested.
You should, of course, keep your passport handy, as well as any skipper's license or documents attesting
to your boat-handling skills.
PETS ONBOARD
Or more specifically, DOGS; I have no experience with cats or other types of pets . We have a Tibetan
Terrier, Johnnie, now 13 years old. He has made six transatlantic flights, three entries into France, and
has traveled along with us in countries from The Netherlands through France, Germany, Belgium,
Switzerland and Italy, with absolutely no problems and not a single question, not ever, from any
border authority. We have never been asked for any documentation whatsoever (in Europe), although
we have always been cautious enough to obtain a veterinarian's certificate of good health and he has
always had a current rabies vaccination (which he would have needed in the USA in any case.) On
each of his two return trips to the USA, an inspector has asked to see his rabies certificate; on one trip,
the current certificate was entirely in French but was accepted with only minor delay in locating and
translating the proper words (the inspector accepted my translation.)

The flights have all been on Air France or their partners Delta and Continental; Air France is noted for
being dog friendly, the partners somewhat less so. Continental required that he be shipped as air cargo,
with substantially more paperwork and cost. On other flights, he traveled as "Excess Baggage", an
unpleasant term but one that reduces the hassle and cost. We turn him over to an agent at the ticket
counter at the last possible minute, after paying a fee of about $80, and then collect him at the baggage
pickup area. On arrival in France, an official has never inspected him nor have we had to present our
papers. We simply take over from a baggage handler, with our thanks for their courtesy and assistance.
The airline may refuse to transport a dog, however, if the destination or stopover airport will be too
cold or too hot; inquire with your airline for their rules.

When traveling in Europe, he has been welcome in nearly all hotels, restaurants and shops. When dogs
aren't welcome there is usually a sign posted at the entrance, or a note in the guidebook listing. Many
hotels will charge an extra daily fee of 5 to 10 euros. Most companies that rent self-skippered boats
will allow dogs, again with an extra fee.
PETS ONBOARD
Onboard, the major concerns are the dog's toilet needs and the method of getting the dog on and off
the vessel. Some owners furnish a designated area of Astroturf or carpet onboard, available for the dog
to use at any time, however an advantage of inland waterway cruising is that stops are more frequent
and convenient, allowing the dog to go ashore for relief.

Getting on and off can be a problem, and is dangerous if the dog should fall between the boat and a
wall, or into a lock. You will need to work this out with your dog; perhaps it will have to be restrained
during mooring or locking. Our dog is very well behaved, but is too anxious to leap off when we
approach a dock or wall, so his leash is clipped on at that time. A life jacket made for dogs is a good
item to have, or at least a shoulder harness rather than just a neck collar, so that a boathook can be
used to pluck the dog from the water if it has gone overboard. As much as you may love your pet, it
would be dangerous and unwise to go into the water yourself to rescue it.

If you have a pet that is your constant companion, there is no reason not to let it have the same fun that
you are having while cruising the waterways of Europe.

It is important to note that a quarantine period is ONLY required in the United Kingdom; the countries
on the continent have no such requirement.

For information regarding other animals, consult the websites referenced on the following page.
Check with your airline for details regarding their requirements for documentation and the acceptable
type of crate. Small dogs (less than 5 kg/11 lbs) may be allowed at your seat.
PETS: Entry into Europe
Because the incidence of rabies in Europe has been greatly reduced in recent years, the EU has
issued new regulations regarding the movement of pet dogs and cats into and between member
countries, including the UK. Pet owners should read the documents on the links shown below before
traveling, however a brief summary is as follows:
1. Pets must be identified by a tattoo or implanted microchip, with documents that relate the tatoo or
microchip identification number to the owner's name and address. Beginning in 2012, only
microchips will be accepted.
2. The microchip must meet ISO standard Annex A, 2.1, ISO # 11785 (website: www.iso.ch). The
HomeAgain microchip from AKC Companion Animal Recovery, which is manufactured in
compliance with Annex A, 2.1, ISO # 11785 meets the requirements. (If you are not sure if the chip
complies, then you should purchase and carry with you a scanner that works.)
3. The United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, Norway and Switzerland (along with other
countries) are included in Annex II EC regulation 998/2003, which means that these countries are
considered low risk regions for rabies. Therefore no rabies serological test is required.
4. Rabies shots must now be updated every 1 or 2 years depending on the type of vaccine used
(rather than a blanket 1-year requirement based on previous regulations.)
The above information was taken from the website of the Embassy of The Netherlands in the United
States at www.netherlands-embassy.org/article.asp?articleref=AR00001142EN
Please take note that Pit Bull Terriers (and Pit Bull Terrier cross breeds) are not allowed into NL.

For More Information regarding UK regulations:

http://www.defra.gov.uk/animalh/quarantine/index.htm

For More Information regarding USA regulations:

http://www.cdc.gov/ncidod/dq/animal.htm
CONNECTING TO THE INTERNET
First of all, bring a laptop or handheld computer to Europe with you from your home country, and in
your own language. If you purchase a computer in a European country, it will be difficult to find one
that has its keyboard AND its Operating System in English (it is essential that the Operating System,
such as Windows or Mac OS, not just the screen language, be in English; if you install other software,
it will not run unless the language is compatible.)

Second, check with the ISP that you are currently using to learn if they have local telephone numbers
that will connect with their service in each country that you plan to visit. If so, sign up for their
Roaming Service if necessary and bring all telephone numbers with you. If you can't do that with your
current ISP, wait until you are in Europe and locate a suitable ISP then, there are many choices
available. (CompuServe has historically been popular with canal travelers; however they have not
upgraded their software to be compatible with newer computers, so check carefully. AOL is prevalent
in Europe and may be a good choice.)

If your e-mailbox is website-based (rather than on the server of an Internet Service Provider) consider
the fact that it may take a considerable amount of time to download the web page (or pages) before you
can login to access your mail. An ISP-server mailbox will be very fast.

Wireless Hotspots (WiFi) are becoming very prevalent in Europe and are an ideal way to connect to the
internet. Many marinas now offer this service, they will provide you with a password. There are also
many municipal, commercial and private wireless networks that you can access as you travel along the
waterways. Set up your computer to search for them, or purchase one of the several gadgets that will
search for hotspots without turning on your computer.
MOBILE PHONES
Unless you already have a mobile telephone that includes both the 900 mhz and 1800 mhz bands, don't
buy a phone before you arrive in Europe, do that in the first country in which you will spending time.
Take your laptop with you when you go to buy a phone, which should be done at the most complete
and most professional mobile phone store that you can find, there will be many such choices in a
medium or large city. And in that store try to locate a competent, experienced clerk with good English.
Explain to the clerk that you wish to purchase a telephone and a phone-service contract that will allow
you to use your computer and the new phone to download e-mail. Don't let them sell you a phone-
based service that will not easily and quickly connect to your own e-mailbox; for instance, WAP is an
Internet service for mobile phones but it is very limited and may not allow you to reach your usual e-
mail service, nor is it suitable for broad use of the Internet. Buy a telephone with a built-in modem; the
modem in your computer is intended for a landline connection, not a mobile phone connection.

The easiest way to get telephone service is by buying a Pre-Paid SIM card, which will allow you to
connect immediately and will include a preset amount of usage. You can later add "Recharge" time as
necessary with a credit card or by purchasing the appropriate recharge card from a variety of shops
(newsstands, tobacco shops or supermarkets.) You can then buy a similar SIM card in each new
country, if your current card doesn't work there or is too expensive because of "Roaming" charges.
Instead of a pre-paid SIM card, you can sign up for a monthly-billed account with roaming service
throughout Europe through major companies such as Vodaphone or Orange. However, it will be
difficult to arrange a monthly-service telephone contract without a local residence address (confirmed
with utility-bill receipts in your name) and/or a local bank account. A pre-paid SIM card in each
country is quick and easy, and may be cheaper than roaming service throughout Europe from a single
provider. Some services will give a substantial discount for calls to a single pre-selected number, so it
may be a good idea to use the number of your ISP dial-up. You will need only one dial-up number to
use throughout the coverage area of your SIM card or account; charges are not based on distance.
 AUSTRIA CZECH REPUBLIC

SLOVAKIA
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VIENNA
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HUNGARY
SWIT
ZERL
AND

ITALY
SLOVENIA CROATIA
 NETHERLANDS
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Copyright 2006 EuroCanals

 CZECH REPUBLIC
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Pardubice
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Vtl

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Canal

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 Narrow Canals (Locks are 7 ft wide)
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 AUSTRIA
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mo SLOVENIA

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Milano Padova
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BOSNIA &
HERZEGOVINA

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Adriatico

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(FR)
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 Rivers
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AUSTRIA © Copyright EuroCanals 2006
 roCana Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe
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Waterways of Scandinavia
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SCOTLAND

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© COPYRIGHT 2006 EUROCANALS
 Bay of
Biscay
FRANCE

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 GERMANY
Schaffhausen
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SWITZERLAND Basel
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Zurich
Zur Linth
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ITALY
FRANCE
ITALY © Copyright EuroCanals 2006
 BARGE TYPES

Canal St Martin,
Paris
FRENCH PENICHE
(Commercial Freight-Hauling Barge)
The working peniche Cabourg is traveling upstream on the river Oise. These barges were built to
completely fill a standard French Freycinet-scale lock, at 38.5 meters long by 5.1 meters wide. The bow
and stern are both blunt and broad-shouldered, so as not to waste any of the available lock space.
 Canal de Briare

Some peniche have been converted into spacious hotel barges, such as Joie de Vivre, and many are
permanently moored as live-aboard homes. They are not common as a private cruising barge because
of their large size and not-so-elegant lines.
 Vecht river,
Utrecht, Netherlands

The rental-boat company Locaboat Plaisance manufactures the Penichettes, a design based on the
working peniche in overall appearance but constructed of fiberglass in various sizes and models. They
are based at rental locations throughout Europe and also sold as private cruising boats.
 Canal du Nivernais

DUTCH BARGES: Luxemotor

A sharp bow, an upswept stern and a gently arcing sheer line are the marks of a Luxemotor, a very
popular style for conversion to both hotel barges and private cruising vessels.
 DUTCH BARGES: Tjalks
Meuse river, The tjalk (pronounced “chalk”) is another
Belgium very popular Dutch design. Like the French
peniche, it has broad, blunt bow and stern
shapes, maximizing internal volume for a
given length and beam. They are generally
available as 16 to 24 meter vessels.
 Canal du Nivernais

Along with the hull shape, like a Dutch wooden shoe,

DUTCH BARGES: Tjalks note that the rudder usually rises to the top of the stern
rail, probably a tradition dating from tiller steering.
 Canal de Bourgogne

Aak
A pointed bow and swept-back stem usually mean that the vessel is one of the many regional
designs of Aak built in The Netherlands.
DUTCH BARGES: Platbodem

Sailing barges for the inland waterways and lakes of The Netherlands have flat bottoms and lee boards.
English Narrowboats
Although only 7 feet wide, narrowboats can be as long as 72 feet.
They are steered by a tiller on an open rear deck.
 LOCKS
Canal St Martin, Paris
River navigation for the transport of people or goods is thousands of years old, but until locks came
into use (in the 14th century) it was limited to sections of the rivers with adequate depth and no
impassable barriers such as rocky ledges which formed natural weirs.

Lateral canals are those which follow alongside a river; locks are used to change the elevation of
the waterway in steps and to allow vessels to bypass obstacles.

Locks back up a stretch of water at a certain surface level; when the depth becomes too shallow or
a ledge of rock is encountered, then another lock is installed. The waterway proceeds up the slope
in steps. If the canal crosses over a summit between two watersheds, then it is called a summit
canal, and there will be a series of locks stepping down the other side.

An example of a summit canal is shown below, taken from the EuroCanals guide “Waterways of
Brittany”. The horizontal sections show the distance between locks; the vertical steps are the rise or
fall at each lock. On both sides of the summit the locks are very close together, so the steps are
obscured on this graph.

80
70 Summit Pound

60 6 locks
12 locks
50
40
30
20
10
0
Redon Rennes Hede Dinan
The Invention of Locks
The first “pound lock”, a basin of water impounded between two gates, was invented in China in
984 AD. The practical details that make locks work as they do today was developed by Leonardo
da Vinci, who in 1495 introduced in France the apparatus L’écluse à sas à deux paires de portes
busquées, “A lock chamber with two pairs of gates attached”. Leonardo’s sketch still exists and is
much more artistic than this one (with his notes translated):

Pivoting gates hinged Level, rigid chamber floor Leonardo da Vinci’s

to sidewalls, with sketch is labeled
valves built-in and “Sa”. The French
operated from above word is Sas, for
Sa
Flow “lock chamber”.

Masonry sidewalls
(rather than dirt)

The key to the design is the mitered gates

which close tightly and are held in place by
the pressure of water due to different water
levels. The photo shows the miter angle of the
mating gates.
When you are in a lock that is filling or
emptying, the first sign that the cycle is complete
will be the slight opening between the mitered
ends, indicating that the water levels have
equalized, allowing the gates to open.
 How Locks Work:

Step 1: A vessel bound upstream enters the lock and the crew secures lines to bollards.

Side View Rise, typically 2-4 meters

Upstream valves closed Downstream valves open

Upstream Downstream
gates gates
closed open

Top View

The vessel should be immediately secured to bollards with a line

from the bow and the stern, and held tightly against the lock wall.
 How Locks Work:

Step 2: Downstream gates and valves are closed after all vessels have entered.
The lock fills with water through the open upstream valves, lifting the vessel.

Upstream valves open Downstream valves closed

All gates closed

As the vessel rises the crew must “take up slack “ on the bow
& stern lines to hold the vessel tightly against the lock wall.
How Locks Work:

Step 3: When the level in the lock equals the level upstream,
the upstream gates are opened, allowing the vessel to exit and proceed.

Downstream valves closed

Upstream Downstream
gates gates
open closed
 How Locks Work:
The process is reversed when headed downstream.

As the vessel descends the crew must “let out “ on the bow & stern lines
while holding the vessel tightly against the lock wall.

Upstream valves closed Downstream valves open

A Note of Caution:
Many locks will have a sill that extends 1 to 2 meters inside the lock
from the upstream gate. Be sure that the stern of the vessel does not
settle onto this sill.
 Most locks, like the one at left, will have walls that are
straight, both horizontally and vertically. But on some
canals, notably the Canal du Midi, the sidewalls are
curved, resulting in an oval lock. This was done for
reasons of strength; when the lock is empty there is
substantial inward pressure on the long sidewalls. An arc
is inherently stronger than a straight wall and was suited
to 17th-century construction techniques. The design is
not used on later locks, although some are built with
straight sidewalls that slope inward toward the bottom,
for the same reason of inherent strength.

Abbeville lock, Canal de la Somme

Raonel lock,
Canal de la Robine
(a branch of the Canal
du Midi)
The oval locks are attractive but are inconvenient
for all but the smallest boats. Large boats must
enter in a straight line through a narrow passage,
then "go sideways" to secure to the wall.

The trick is to steer slowly toward the wall while

watching the stern. Then a crewman at the bow
throws a line, one end secured at the bow, around
the bollard.

He then takes that line to the stern and pulls the

stern to the wall, with help from the helmsman
using reverse power, if necessary.

In the photo the line has been secured to a

midships cleat. When the lock begins to fill, crew
needs to be ready to loosen the line and take up
slack while holding the line taut, keeping the stern
tight against the wall.
On the narrow canals of Britain, a single swinging "top gate" is
sometimes used, with a mitered pair at the bottom, or downstream
end, of the lock. A narrow lock is seven feet wide.

Cropredy lock,
Oxford Canal
How Locks Work:
Operating a manual lock

Narrowboat travelers
approaching a lock on the
Oxford Canal. The previous
lock is just around the curve
behind, so it is convenient to
simply walk ahead on the
towpath.

It is not unusual that the lady

of the boat is the steerer,
while men walk ahead to
operate the valves and gates,
both of which sometimes
require good strength.

The lady at the bow and the

gentleman are each holding a
“lock key” used to crank the
valves open. It is carried
along on the boat; forgetting
it may mean a long walk
back to the previous lock,
and for heaven's sake don't
drop it in the canal.
 The lock is full of water, as the previous boat has completed its passage
and has tied up in the distance for lunch.

Craydon lock
The first step is to drain the
lock by cranking open the
valves in each of the
downstream gates.

He has already opened the

valve in the gate at right; note
the shaft extending above the
gearbox.

The water level in the lock has

already dropped about one
foot.
Both valves are now open and the lock is draining.
The beams are swung to open the gates.
The lady is closing the valve on her gate.
Only the locks are 7’ wide; the canal is more than twice that.
Note the bollards for use by waiting boats.
The boat is aligned with the lock wall.
It is only necessary to watch one side,
as the narrowboat will “just fit”.
The nose of the boat begins to
enter the lock.

Note the position of the valve

shaft at right, fully down
(closed) while the gentlemen is
preparing to lower the valve
shaft on his side.

The bow line is left handy on

the deck. The skipper will stop
the forward progress of the
boat by reversing the engine,
however there is a braided
rope fender tied at the bow just
in case contact is made with
the lock gate or another boat.
He’s afraid to watch!
Not really, he was speaking to a British Waterways
maintenance crew which has just arrived.
Ready to close the gates.
 When the gates are closed
the lock is filled by opening the
valves alongside the upstream gate.
 The lock is filling
and the boat is rising.
 Note the towpath which continues along the entire canal,
convenient for the crew but also great for hikers and bikers.
In France the crank handles are most often permanently attached. The one atop the pedestal will swing
the gate closed. The handle at right, on the gate catwalk, is used to raise or lower the valve in the gate,
opening or closing it. Although it is possible to release a cog and allow the mechanism to free-fall, this
may be harmful to the valve (or to your hand!); it should be cranked in both directions.
A crew of six is traveling aboard this
rental boat on the Canal du Nivernais;
everyone has a job to do.
In France and Belgium a lock-keeper is usually present, but the boat crew (in red and white above) often
helps with the cranking as a courtesy and to speed things along. On some canals the lock mechanisms are
now fully automated; the operation of the lock may be initiated by a photocell, a remote control box or a
canal-side pole which activates a switch. (Water is overflowing the top of the gates in this photo; the valves
are just beginning to open, under the lower water level.)
Here the skipper is holding the boat against
the wall with a line from the bow, around a
bollard, to the stern. This is a small boat
(9m) so a single line is sufficient; larger
boats will require a separate bow & stern
line, with a crewperson on each line. The
line should be ready before entering the
lock; be sure that it is outside the bow rail.

Do not secure the line to a stern cleat, it

must be ready to be tightened in a filling
lock or slackened in an emptying lock.
Careful attention should be paid to this task,
as it is much easier to keep the boat under
control while firmly against the wall than to
try and recover after the boat has
drifted away.

When ascending, it is difficult to locate the

bollards from the boat, so the crew has gone
ashore at the grassy bank in the background
and placed the line around the bollard,
before taking this photo.
 The Problem:
How to get a line over the
bollards

A sure solution:
Throw a line to a crewman,
lock-keeper or passerby on
the lock wall, who will
pass the line behind the
bollard and return the loose
end to the boat.

The hard way:

Throw a line from the boat
over the bollard. Easy
enough if the lock is not
deep and you can see the
bollard. Not very easy if
you cannot see the bollard
or if the lock is unusually
deep.
Crossing the line around the bollard is not recommended. If the boat is descending in the lock the line
may not slacken easily, and it will be difficult or impossible to remove it when finished.
This lock was fitted with only a single bollard on this wall, requiring the use of the single bow-to-stern-
line technique. If several bollards are available use two lines, bow and stern. In that case, secure to the
stern bollard first; otherwise the stern will tend to swing out when the bow line is tightened.
An excellent lock layout, plenty of bollards on both sides
and vertical poles inset in the lock walls for smaller boats.

Canal St Martin, Paris

 Canal St Martin, Paris

Here is an example of the reason for securing the boat tightly to the wall
in a turbulent filling lock. Note the stern line around a pole.
 Canal du Nivernais

Approaching an open lock. This lock is operated by a lock-keeper, who has just waved us ahead.
Whenever a lock-keeper is present watch for his instructions or for a green light. The crew of the boat
ahead will help us by taking our line around a bollard, so in this case it isn't necessary to put a
crewperson ashore.
For the skipper, the important thing here is to not hit the stern of the other boat while watching to see if
the stern has cleared the gates behind him. There is more space than it seems; trust the lock-keeper.
 River Doubs, Canal du Rhone au Rhin

Another type of lock approach, a lock as part of a weir across the river. These are often not easy to spot.
When headed upstream the waterfall over the weir is apparent, but headed downstream it will not be
and is obviously dangerous. This points out the need for the use of canal charts, so that the skipper
knows what to anticipate. The red and white column marks the lock location. The locks on this canal are
fully automatic, operated by the skipper using a remote control; no lock-keeper is present.
Most canal cruisers will utilize
a row of fenders to protect the
boat in locks, as seen on this
rental boat. But note also the
rub-rails on the stern corners;
this part of the boat often hits
the lock wall as the skipper
starts to exit a lock.

If space is available, use a boat

pole to push both the bow and
the stern away from the wall
before starting ahead. A
measure of the skipper's skill
is a smooth, uneventful
departure, with very little
steering adjustments. An
unskilled steerer will try to
turn away from the wall but
cannot do so because the stern
is in tight contact, until the end
of the lock; then anything can
happen, such as an unexpected
sharp turn into the canal bank.
Lutzelbourg, Canal de la Marne au Rhin
Gabarit Freycinet

You will see this term frequently in articles, guidebooks and charts describing the French canal
network. It means the Freycinet Gauge, the standard dimensions for most canals in France north and
east of a line from Le Havre to Lyon. (Not all of the northern canals use this standard, and none in the
south or west.)

The dimensions refer to the maximum size of a barge that can utilize the locks:
38.50 meters longeur (length)
5.06 meters largeur (width)
1.80 meters tirant d’eau (depth)
The actual dimensions of the lock are slightly larger, of course, to leave room for anchors and rudders,
as well as a small clearance on the sides. In fact, there are slight differences in the dimensions
published for various Freycinet canals. These dimensions result in a lock basin volume of 450 cubic
meters, suitable for one barge displacing 300 tons of water.

Charles-Louis Freycinet was an engineer and politician who became Minister of Public Works in
1877. He recognized the problems of a waterway network that had been built over the previous three
centuries with a variety of lock dimensions, and immediately set out to begin a rebuilding project that
lasted from 1879 to 1913, resulting in 1,519 kilometers of canals being refitted to this gauge.
M. Freycinet saw this project completed before his death, at 95, in 1923. He selected as a standard
vessel size the péniche flamande, the Flemish barges. Many thousands of these barges have traveled
these waterways, although quite a few are now retired from service due to competition from rail and
highway transportation, as well as the introduction of much larger barges and locks on the major
routes. On the next page is an example; this barge is traveling empty and shows the volume of the
lock space quite well, as very little of the flat-bottomed hull remains underwater.
This French peniche is designed to fully occupy a Freycinet-gauge lock.
The barge is empty and floating very high, with less than one meter draft.
When full and operating on a deep river the barge will be submerged to
the brown waterline. The bottom of the barge is completely flat.
This photo shows a peniche in a Freycinet lock. The lock is automatic, note the lack of crank
handles as seen in earlier slides. (Don’t ask about the dinghy floating in a tank of water
inside the barge, I don’t know! Perhaps an exercise program for the skipper?)
 St Gilles lock, Canal de Rhone a Sete

This large lock is 195 X 12 meters, over four times as long and twice as wide as a Freycinet lock. Give
way to the commercial barges, who have priority, and watch for red/green traffic lights before entering.
The bollards in this lock are embedded in the sidewalls; move the line to the next higher (or lower)
bollard as necessary. There are ladders in the wall here, but it is recommended to avoid the use of
ladders in all locks unless absolutely necessary, as they are usually very slippery.
A "staircase" is a series of
directly-connected locks; the
top gate of one lock is the
bottom gate of the next. The
famous Fonserannes staircase
on the Canal du Midi is
heavily used in season (this
photo was taken in March)
and is a tourist attraction for
non-boaters, so be ready for
plenty of action and also lots
of spectators and potential
helpers who may be unskilled.

Note the single tiny bollard at

the center of the lock
sidewalls. The steps make it
convenient for a crewperson to
follow along with the lines to
the next lock.
Follow the instructions of the lock-keeper, who may open two locks at once for uphill traffic, creating a
strong flow of turbulent water. Keep the lines taut and use engine power as needed to maintain position.
Locks on rivers are usually located at one end of a dam

Moselle river
 There is often a wall or
row of pilings provided
for waiting boats,
however on the major
waterways the pilings
are spaced for large
barges. Small boats
must tie-up with care.

Mosel river, Trier, Germany

L’alimentation en eau
“Feeding the canal with water” was a major problem to be solved by the canal builders and in some
cases continues to be a major headache for the canal operators. It may seem to be a subject of only mild
interest to canal users, but it becomes a problem for them when the canal must be closed due to lack of
water to operate the locks.

In several recent seasons Canal de Bourgogne was forced to close at the summit tunnel early in
the summer. The nearby Canal de Centre has also been closed before its regularly scheduled seasonal
date, or boats have been required to operate in convoys to reduce the frequency of locking cycles.

Planning for such a possibility can be started by researching the canal routes at an early stage in trip
planning. When selecting a route, check to see if any of the canals along the way include a summit
section. If so, make inquiries in advance regarding the outlook for the current season.

When the route for a canal was being laid out, the planners had to consider where they would have a
continuous source of water to operate the locks. If the waterway was to be a canalized river or a lateral
canal (one which closely parallels a river), then the river itself is the obvious source of water. But on a
summit canal, a new waterway is dug across the high ground between two watersheds and there is no
natural river. So water sources had to be located, reservoirs created and aqueducts built.

Why is this such a problem? Because locks use a great deal of water with each cycle. A typical
Freycinet lock will send 400 cubic meters of water downstream, about half a million gallons; in Britain,
narrow locks are used in The Midlands because they save water, using about 50 cubic meters (60, 000
gallons) per cycle.
Where the water comes from
The water to operate locks must come Toulouse
Montagne Noire
from somewhere; the Canal du Midi is a
Rigole
classic example. A canal to connect the de la
Bassin de
Plaine
Atlantic Ocean with the Mediterannean St-FerrÈol
Castelnaudary Argens
Sea was first described by the Romans Naurouze
Trebes
and was wanted by the early kings of
Bief de partage Carcassonne
France; Leonardo da Vinci did some (summit pound)
planning in 1516. But construction Elevation, meters
wasn't possible without a steady year- 200
round supply of water to feed the canal.
150
The canal was begun in the mid-1660s Toulouse
when Pierre Paul Riquet devised a plan All locks between Toulouse
Carcassonne
to bring water from the Black Mountains 100 and Carcasonne are supplied from
Naurouze*
to the summit of the canal at Naurouze,
by means of a 42 kilometer trench, 50
Rigole de la Plaine. From Naurouze the
water could be used to supply the locks
both to the east and to the west. A 70 0
hectare (170 acre) reservoir, the Bassin
de St-Ferréol, was built to store the Where does the water go? It passes downstream into each
mountain water. This was such an successive lock, perhaps after being held in a side pond for
uncertain venture at the time that Riquet a short period in order to smooth out the downstream flow.
was forced to finance this part of the Eventually it flows into the sea, as does the entire water
canal project himself. flow of all canals and rivers.
 Chatel Censoir,
Canal du Nivernais
LOCKING PROCEDURE & TIPS
LOCKING PROCEDURE & TIPS
The next few pages will present a broad range of comments and suggestions for lock users. But
there are far too many variations to discuss every possibility, nor could anyone remember all of
them when traveling the waterways. So here are three primary rules to apply to all cases: Listen,
Observe & Read. But also don’t forget these other rules: Relax, stay calm and have fun!

Listen If you are renting a boat for a holiday trip, the rental base operator will provide a short
course of instruction about the boat and the waterway, especially locking techniques. Since the
operator will be thoroughly familiar with the boat and the locks that you will encounter, listen to
their advice and use their recommended technique. If you are traveling on your own vessel, listen
to the comments of other boaters traveling that waterway, and solicit advice from the lock-keeper
or other authorities that you encounter at the first lock on a new waterway.

Observe As you pass through locks, observe how the lock operates and what other boaters are
doing, both good and bad. Before entering the first lock in a new waterway or a section of locks
that are different, moor the vessel and walk to the lock to observe everything that can be learned
about the operation and techniques. Adjust your standard technique to fit the situation.

Read Charts and guidebooks for European waterways will show the location of all locks, as well
as details such as the rise/fall, VHF channel number or lock-keeper's telephone number. But don’t
ignore the general instructions in the front pages of the book. They will present information
specific to the waterway in that book and offer useful advice regarding how the locks operate.
Operating a Lock
On the European continent a majority of the waterways are served by lock-keepers who will direct
boats into the lock and will operate the lock controls. But some canals use automatic or user-operated
mechanisms. As you enter each new waterway, be sure to find out what to expect and how the locks
are operated.

The skipper should always remain aboard the vessel. You should have a standard technique agreed
with your crew, but also be ready to adjust with the situation. Establish a system of hand signals and
voice communication.

Crewpersons ashore will first assist the skipper with signals (such as which side of the lock tie-up
on), then handle the lines to secure the boat. After the skipper has confirmed that the vessel is secure,
the crew then operates the lock mechanism or assists the lock-keeper.

But first let’s define the word “secure”. That means that one or more lines have been looped behind a
bollard and are under the control of the skipper or a crewperson; it does not mean that the lines have
been tied-off, to be left unattended. In a lock “secure” also means “attended”. When the vessel
descends in a lock, the line must be free to be slackened as necessary. A tied-off or even accidentally
bound line cannot be undone and the results may be damage or injury. And if the vessel is ascending,
the line must be continually tightened to keep the vessel under control.

Protecting your boat (and others)

When the skipper is maneuvering the vessel in a lock and communicating with the crew, lock-keeper,
other boaters and sometimes spectators, it is easy to be distracted and allow the vessel to drift too far
ahead or astern. Before starting a trip, check on whatever may “stick out” at the bow and stern,
potentially causing injury or damage. It may be necessary to install a bumper of rubber, rope or fender.
Approaching the lock
This should be smooth, steady and precise. It can’t be done too slowly, for the vessel can only be
properly controlled with adequate headway. Line up your approach as early as possible so that
maneuvering near the lock won’t be necessary. One method that works well on a long barge with
rear wheelhouse is to sight down the centerline of the boat, lining up the bow of the vessel with the
center of the lock by sighting on the vertical line between the two gates at the far end.

Another technique is to watch along the side toward the wall where you intend to moor; you
already know that the beam of the boat will fit through the gates, so don’t worry about the other
side. Watch the gate on the near side on the way in, and then along that wall to your target bollard,
steering parallel to the wall and gently bringing the vessel into contact with the wall at the target
spot. Combine these sighting methods to get a feel for where you are in the lock, and where you
intend to be when you stop.

Binoculars will be useful, to scan the lock as early as possible in the approach. The first question to
be answered is which side of the lock has bollards or other means of securing the boat. Usually it
will be the towpath side, but not always. Spot the bollards with the binoculars if you can, or if crew
has gone ahead to the lock, they should signal back to the skipper. Two things to watch out for:
there may be a flow of water entering the channel from the side; this will be marked on the charts,
so you should be aware of it in advance. And check for a crosswind that may push the boat
sideways.

Who goes in first? Follow the instructions of the lock-keeper; look for red/green lights as well as
hand signals or voice instructions. Commercial vessels have legal priority, then the general rule is
that larger vessels go first. But in most cases you will be traveling in company with other pleasure
boats of similar size, so it is simply a matter of following the boat ahead.
Types of Lock Mechanisms
Manual: The gates and valves are operated by cranking a gear mechanism. If no lock-keeper is
present, all operations are done by the crew.
Fully Automatic (sensor control): Locks of this type perform all functions automatically, thus
the skipper and crew need only secure the vessel and watch the signal lights. A locking cycle starts
when the vessel passes through a radar or photocell beam across the canal, a short distance before
the lock. After hitting the beam, maintain position in the canal until a green light indicates that it is
safe to enter the lock. Other beams will sense when the vessel has passed the open gates at entry
and exit. The main thing to do in this type of lock is to observe and act only on the red/green
lights. An obvious thing not to do is to moor so as to obstruct the sensor beams. And when you get
the green light to exit, do so promptly or the gates may close.
Fully Automatic (remote control): Similar to above, except that the cycle is initiated from a
hand-held remote control furnished to the skipper at the first lock in the canal.
Fully Automatic (twist-pole): Similar to above, except that the cycle is initiated by twisting a
pole that is suspended from a cable across the canal or from a structure at one bank.
Fully Automatic (remote lock-keeper): Similar to above, except that all lock operations are
controlled by a lock-keeper located elsewhere, in a booth with a video and computer link to each
lock in a series. This type of locking is very fast and efficient because the lock-keeper adjusts the
cycle at each lock to match the traffic; often a open lock will be ready ahead. Unless you can spot
the lock-keeper's booth, you may wonder how this is all happening.
Semi-automatic (blue/red lift bars): In some locks, after the first gate has automatically opened
and the vessel has entered the lock, the cycle is on hold until the crew lifts a blue bar located near
the center of the lock, closing the gates and starting the fill or drain cycle. An adjacent red bar
stops the operation if necessary. A similar style is to use a card, similar to a credit card, which is
inserted into a slot in a control box on the lock wall. Or in a few cases, simply push a “start”
button located inside a booth.
Securing the vessel
Unless you are instructed otherwise by a lock-keeper or are locking with other vessels, choose a
location at the center of the lock wall. There may be turbulence from the inrush of water at the top
end, or a possibly unexpected strong backwash from the bottom end. But your location will be
controlled by the location of bollards or other means of attaching lines to the wall. A good technique is
to use lines from both the stern and the bow, each to a separate bollard. It is common for someone to
be put ashore ahead of the lock so that they can locate the bollards and take a line passed or thrown
from the boat. Attach the stern line first, otherwise the forward motion of the vessel will tend to swing
the stern out and may result in getting the vessel crosswise in the lock.

If a single bollard is to be used, attach a line that is longer than the length of the boat to a cleat near
the bow (preferably a cleat about one-third of the way back from the bow, if available.) Pass that line
behind the bollard and to a person near the stern of the boat. Pulling on the line will draw the stern
against the wall. But with either of these techniques, do not try to stop the vessel by pulling on a line.
It must be stopped by engine power in reverse, then the line can be drawn taut.

On commercial barges and other large vessels, the crew most often work from the barge to the
shore; that is, they throw an eye of line around a bollard rather than get off of the vessel. The line is
pulled back around a pair of bollards at the bow of the barge. Only a bow line is used, and forward
engine power is used against the “spring” of that line to hold the stern against the wall. These
techniques are for professionals and are recommended only for large pleasure vessels with a trained
and experienced crew.

Shut off the engine only after lines are secured. Remember, each line must be tended by a
crewperson or the skipper; do not tie-off the line, as it must be constantly tightened while ascending or
slackened while descending, and must be free to slide off the bollard when finished.
Bollards
There are a variety of bollard types and locations. On previous pages it was suggested that many
cruising boats will put someone ashore to walk ahead to the lock; the primary reason for this is so
that they can locate the bollards and signal to the skipper. Bollards that are atop the lock wall may
exist on both sides of the lock, but on many canals they are on one side only. They are frequently set
back from the edge of the wall, making it difficult to see them from water level or to catch one with a
thrown line.

In large locks used by commercial barges bollards that are set into the lock wall are common, as the
crew of these vessels always works from the deck of the barge rather than going ashore. These
bollards may be a series of vertical poles, or a tier of bollards at several levels embedded in the wall.
The most convenient are floating bollards, which rise or fall along with the water level and stay
adjacent to the deck of the vessel.

Uphill vs. Downhill

It is commonly agreed that descending in a lock is easier than ascending. Going uphill, bollards atop
the wall often can’t be seen from the boat and there will sometimes be severe turbulence from the
inrush of water. Going downhill, the top of the lock wall is right alongside the deck and the draining
of water is more calm.

However, be aware of the underwater sill at the top end of the lock, stay at least two meters away
from the gate to prevent dropping the stern of the boat onto the sill. Also, never tie off the lines, they
must be slackened under control as the vessel descends. It is best to have an axe or knife handy in
case a line should become hung up and need to be cut loose quickly.
Safety in Locks
Just as with driving a car, most locking operations are routine and even become boring after days of
multiple locks, but can suddenly become dangerous and cause injury or death. Multi-ton vessels are
floating inside a closed chamber with masonry walls and thick steel or wooden gates; improper
handling of a vessel can cause personal injury or damage to other vessels or the lock structure. In recent
years there has been one highly-experienced boater who was killed when he fell into a lock and another
who was severely injured when her leg was caught by a coil of rope. Pets can be a problem, keep them
tied up or closed inside a cabin.

Know what to expect: If possible, moor before you get to the first lock on a new waterway and walk
ahead to inspect the lock and perhaps watch a cycle of the lock in operation. Discuss this with your
crew so that everyone aboard will be able to anticipate what must be done.
Don’t Fall In: This is the obvious and most primary rule, don’t fall off the wall or the vessel; you could
easily be crushed as the vessel moves against the wall or other boats. Even though the danger is
obvious, conscious steps should be taken to avoid it:
1. Don’t use lock ladders. They are often slippery, rusty or may have rungs missing.
2. Don’t reach for a line that wasn’t thrown well; wait for the thrower to retrieve the line.
3. Everyone on board should either have an assigned task and position, or else a place to
remain out of danger; it isn’t uncommon to see a large party with people all over the boat.
Don’t get between the vessel and the wall: Again this is an obvious potential danger that can be
avoided by awareness; do not allow hands or feet to get between the side of the boat and the wall, or
other vessels. There is a natural tendency to “push off” from the wall or other boats; this can be helpful
if done with a boathook, but do it with great care, and don’t expect to stop a moving vessel; it weighs
far too much and will have too much inertia.
Don’t get all wrapped up in your work: That is, be aware of the ropes. Don’t stand on or inside a coil
of rope. Keep the rope in your hands and watch where it lays on the deck or lock wall. Very severe
injuries can result, or you could be pulled into a bollard or overboard.
Some General Locking Tips
First, a tip about tips: On most canals, particularly in France & Belgium, tips to lock-keepers are
welcomed but definitely not required. They should be small, one or two Euros, unless a lock-keeper has
performed extra duty or has traveled along with you through several locks. It is even better if you can
offer a small gift rather than cash; chocolates, cookies, cigarettes or beverages. These comments apply
to people with whom you have had direct contact; you don’t need to search out an operator in a booth.

In Holland tips are not common, although the very efficient Dutch will sometimes post a sign
suggesting a tip, including the amount!

You will have to pay a fee in Holland for the opening of bridges or locks that are controlled by the local
municipality; this is often collected in a wooden shoe lowered on a line.

Tell the lock-keeper of your plans; often they will ask, especially if the midday break or the closing
hour is approaching. They want to know when to expect you at the next lock, which may be in their
zone or they will call ahead to the next lock-keeper. And they will commonly ask at what time you
expect to start in the morning.

The midday break is never ignored, or even stretched; you may even be refused entry into a lock if the
break time is approaching, as the lock-keeper may prefer that you not wait out the break inside his lock.
Even automatic locks may not operate during that period, probably because they are being monitored
remotely and that person will leave for the break. The operating schedule for the locks will be shown in
the chartbook; check with a lock-keeper or other authority to be sure that the information is current.

Holidays are especially important, check the calendar for any closed day that is coming up, it may be
one that is not familiar to you. When closed for the holiday, locks will not open and you are stopped!
Some General Locking Tips

VHF radio is not generally required (although a new rule now requires it on all pleasure boats
passing through Paris on the Seine) but can be useful, even if just for monitoring of commercial
barge traffic. On some waterways the VHF channel number for the locks is posted on canal-side
signs, as well as on the charts.

Mobile phones are also useful for calling ahead to a lock-keeper, port or other authority; their
telephone numbers are shown on charts. In a few cases where locking is infrequent, a lock-keeper
may have to be called to come from another location.

On the VHF and telephone, use the local language if possible, if not use English.

Keep an axe or heavy knife handy to cut a rope quickly if necessary.

The best overall advice is simple: be patient, don't rush, enjoy the time spent in company with
lock-keepers and other boaters from many countries.
 BOATLIFTS

Arzviller plan incliné,

Canal de la Marne au Rhin
Boatlifts replace multiple locks

Staircase locks and "ladders" of repetitive locks which are not connected but are in a close series
have in some places been replaced by mechanized boatlifts, which transport a basin of water
along a plan incliné (inclined plane) or straight up and down in an ascenseur (elevator).

Using one of these is not much different from using a lock, except that the water level will not
change. Enter and leave the basin at the direction of the operator and tie up securely to a bollard.
Then just watch the scenery and wonder at this strange way to cruise a canal.

Because the boats will displace their weight in water, the total weight of a basin will remain the
same no matter the number or size of boats in the basin (so said Archimedes.)

The Arzviller inclined plane replaces an older section of the canal with seventeen locks in 4
kilometers, turning several hours of work into just a few minutes of sightseeing. The vertical
height of the lift is 45 meters.

You can visit the Arzviller lift without a boat, seeing the sights from a tourist train or a tour boat
that makes the journey down and up, with a short cruise on the canal included.
A boat has just entered the tank from the upper canal,
passing under the yellow frame; the black gate
will be lowered from the frame, sealing the tank.
The gate is in place and the tank
is ready for the trip down.
 The tank is counterbalanced
by a weight and cable system.
The gate is lifted from the exit end of the tank
and the boat cruises into the lower canal.
 Strepy-Thieu ascenseur
Canal de Centre, Belgium
Bypasses 1 lock & 4 aged boatlifts
 There are two tanks, however
each tank works independently.
These boats are entering the
west tank.
Boats enter and tie up in the tank,
then the overhead gate
is lowered to seal the tank.
 The tank is lifted by multiple cables
attached to counterweights.

Counterweights
 Looking southwest from the top.

Looking back, exiting

northeast bound.
 Ronquières plan incliné
Charleroi-Brussels Canal, Belgium
Replaced 14 locks

The distinctive tower column is for

operators and tourists only, it has
nothing to do with the mechanism.
Recreational boats waiting to enter one of the
two tanks, as a 1350-ton barge exits.
 The tank rides on railroad wheels
down a 1.5 km slope.
It is counterbalanced by sliding weights.
The vertical descent is 70 meters.
The tank begins its trip down the slope.
Text
 For complete details on both the Strepy-Thieu and Ronquiéres boatlifts, go to:

http://services-techniques.met.wallonie.be/en/waterways/the_inclined_plane_of_ron/

http://services-techniques.met.wallonie.be/en/waterways/strepythieu_boat_lift/
Alongside the Fonserannes staircase of locks (on the Canal du Midi) there is probably the
most bizarre boatlift; large barges are floated in a wedge of water that is pushed up a long
inclined plane, without a tank. The water is contained in a concrete trench and pushed
along by a sealing plate.
A tractor draws
the sealing plate
up the sloping
trench, forcing a
wedge of water
ahead of it.
 The Canal du Midi at Fonserannes, near Béziers;
Directly below is the boatlift trench; the fork at left leads to the staircase of locks.
Note also the path of the river Orb (at far left), bypassed by the canal. Just beyond the
rows of cypress trees, the canal crosses the river on a large stone bridge.
Boats enter at the top

The wheel turns

counterclockwise
The Falkirk Wheel replaces eleven locks at the junction of
the Forth & Clyde Canal with the Union Canal, near
Edinburgh, Scotland.

The boats in the photo above are tour boats offering rides on
the wheel.

Boats exit at the

bottom.
 Waterways of France

Yonne river at Auxerre

 Can
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EuroCanals Guide: Waterways of France

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Page 2
The Network of Canals & Rivers

The interconnected waterway network of France covers most of the country, except for those waterways in
Brittany (shown below in green) and the smaller rivers along the Atlantic coast or isolated sections of inland
rivers (shown below in orange).

The majority of waterways are in the northeastern quadrant and form a complete network; vessels can travel to
all parts of the region through the most extensive system of canals and locks in the world. These waterways are
connected to the Mediterranean Sea and the canals of the southwest by the rivers Saone and Rhone.

The Canaux des Deux Mers are a through-route from the Atlantic (at Bordeaux) to the Med.

CALAIS
ENGLISH CHANNEL LILLE

LE HAVRE

NANCY
ST MALO PARIS

STRASBOURG

NANTES
DIJON

ATLANTIC

OCEAN

BORDEAUX LYON

TOULOUSE ARLES

MEDITERRANEAN SEA
 Can
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Waterways of France

There are nearly one hundred navigable waterways, totaling 8,000 kilometers, in the French waterways network.
To put them in context, we offer our descriptions and comments organized by REGION and by ROUTE.

FAVORITE TOURIST REGIONS

There are four regions that see the most cruising activity, particularly in the summer months. Portions of the
waterways in these regions may be overcrowded during the prime vacation weeks from July 14 until the end of
August. The regions are ranked on the basis of the number of hotel barges and rental boat bases that operate
along these canals and rivers.

Burgundy
Burgundy is not only the geographical center of the French waterways, it is the most popular area for holiday
cruises or for extended visits by vessels traveling through from North to South. Notice also that the third and
fourth ranked regions directly adjoin Burgundy. Refer to our reports on the Canal Du Nivernais and the Canal
de Bourgogne. On the southern side of Burgundy the Canal de Roanne à Digoin leads to a dead-end near the
source of the river Loire, a popular short cruise.

Southern France
Rivaling Burgundy as the leading region for inland pleasure boating, the Canal du Midi and the waterways of
the Camargue along the southern coast offer a longer cruising season (some facilities are open year-around.)
The landscape is typically Mediterranean, with abundant vineyards, cypresses, pine trees and glorious flowers.
Here cruisers can combine exhilarating natural areas and beaches with visits to historic towns and cities.

Franche-Comté
The canals and rivers passing through this region east of Burgundy often carry through-travelers; the unending
forests and rocky cliffs draw holiday cruisers as well. Rental-boat bases are plentiful. The official name for the
Canal du Rhône au Rhin is descriptive, it does connect the river Rhône to the river Rhine, but for 145 km
between Dole and Montbeliard it mostly follows the course of the river Doubs past wooded slopes and out-
croppings of rocks. Thus this prime cruising area is commonly called "Doubs".

Similarly, if you are to cruise up the Petite Saône from St-Symphorien, you will come to the bureaucratically
named Canal de l'Est - Branche Sud; users call the stretch from Corre to Epinal Canal des Vosges, as it leads
into the foothills of the Vosges mountain region.

Both of these river valleys are attractive natural areas, with just enough towns and small cities to provide services
and interesting stops.

Loiret
The junction of the Canal de Briare with the river Loire, just outside the northwestern corner of Burgundy, is the
center of this region that ranks fourth in cruising interest. It is a popular hotel barge route and excellent for self-
skippered trips. The spectacular canal bridge at Briare is often pictured in books and brochures. Refer to the
guide Canaux du Centre.
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Waterways of France

THROUGH ROUTES
Many vessels pass through France on their way to a destination, often moving from the English Channel or
Belgium/Holland/Germany to the Mediterranean Sea, or vice-versa. (Refer to the table on page 9 for details.)

Bourbonnais:
From the Seine at St. Mammes, the Canal du Loing and the Canal de Briare lead to the Loire Valley and form the
Bourbonnais Route, along with Canal latéral à la Loire and Canal du Centre, as they curve around the western
and southern edge of Burgundy.
Positives: not too many locks, best facilities & moorings, good height; quickest route.
Negative: scenery not as spectacular.

Burgundy:
The River Yonne connects the Seine with the Canal de Bourgogne, an alternative to the Bourbonnais Route.
Positives: spectacular scenery through Burgundy, most enjoyable cruising.
Negative: high density of locks in central Canal de Bourgogne; recently closed in summer due to lack of water.

Marne:
The River Marne provides a route from Paris to the east, connecting with canals and rivers heading south through
endless forests and isolated territory.
Positives: tranquility, scenery, visits to the Champagne region.
Negatives: prone to water shortage in dry summers.

Calais:
The above routes assume an entry at Le Havre, but many vessels enter instead at Calais or Dunkirk.
Positives: closest to England, shortest route.
Negatives: many locks, northern area has a maze of not very attractive canals.

Meuse/Maas:
The River Meuse begins in east-central France and flows to the North Sea through Belgium and Holland, where
it is called the Maas. It is a favored route for vessels headed to France. If you were to buy a vessel in Holland,
this is a recommended route to bring it south.

Brittany:
The Canal d'Ille et Rance connects with the River Vilaine to provide a route south from St. Malo across
the mainland end of the peninsula of Brtittany. Sailboaters in paricular often use this route to travel from the
English Channel to the Bay of Biscay, thus avoiding the difficult and sometimes hazardous rounding of the tip
of the peninsula at Pointe du Raz.
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Waterways of France

OTHER CRUISING REGIONS

Northern France:
Most waterways travelers are here to get somewhere else. It's a major entry point for all types of vessels from the
UK or sea-going yachts from around the world. But there are no hotel barges with regular itineraries here and,
even though they operate thousands of boats from dozens of bases elsewhere, the major rental-boat companies
skip this region almost entirely.

Quoting author Hugh McKnight "It is important to appreciate that this is not among the most attractive regions
of France. Further, widespread canal improvements have introduced much concrete into a fairly bleak area."
The maze of relatively short interconnecting channels and significant commercial traffic mean more attention
must be paid to navigation and boat handling than in other regions (refer to the EuroCanals Guide ratings for
these waterways; all are rated B or C navigation difficulty.)

But all of this does not mean that there are not historic and beautiful towns to visit, or isolated natural areas to
enjoy. If you have reasons to travel in this region, obtain some of the excellent publications now being produced
that offer detailed advice and suggestions to help enjoy your visit. The tourism agencies of Nord-Pas de Calais,
in cooperation with neighboring Flanders (Belgium) and Kent (England) are actively encouraging more pleasure
travel in this region.

Seine:
Cruising on the River Seine, with the exception of vessels that have entered the waterways at Le Havre, usually
means on the section between Paris and to the southeast at the junction with the River Yonne at Montereau.
Here the waterways of the north and east connect with those of Burgundy and Loiret, leading to some of the
most popular cruising in France or on southward to the Med. Here also are moorings right in one of the most
beautiful and interesting of the large cities of the world. (Refer to The Canals & Rivers of Paris.)

But quiet trips upstream on the Petite Seine above Montereau as far as Marcilly are also possible, for a break
from traffic and populated areas. Stops at towns such as Nogent and Bray will provide any needed services; in
between, a cruiser is often the only vessel on the water for many miles.

The Basse Seine downstream of Paris is another story, however, as both current and commercial traffic are
hazardous for smaller vessels. Past Rouen the Seine Maritime is tidal. One or two hotel barges offer trips as far
downstream as Rouen. The River Oise brings traffic from the north into the Seine just at the western edge of
the Paris suburbs. Downstream from this junction, the city and its industry are mostly left behind after
Mantes-la-Jolie; the river becomes wide and white chalk cliffs protrude from forests that line the banks. A few
rental boats are available in this section, for a holiday cruise that combines scenery and historic towns with
passing commercial barges for interest.

Champagne:
Extending northeast from Paris to the Ardennes and Lorraine/Alsace districts, the scenery of the Champagne
region is unexceptional but pleasant along the looping curves of the Marne River. Several hotel barges offer
cruises that begin or end in Paris and feature visits to some of the many well-known vineyards, especially near
Epernay and Reims. A few rental boats are available at Meaux (near Euro Disney) and at Sillery (near Reims),
but otherwise the region is primarily used by privately owned vessels and commercial barges connecting through
between the Seine at Paris and a variety of routes starting at Nancy.
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Waterways of France

LESS WELL KNOWN SCENIC ROUTES

Ardennes:
Again mostly ignored by hotel barges and the large rental-boat companies, the river Meuse offers
some of the finest boating through dense forests to be found anywhere in Europe. Although labeled Canal de
l'Est-Branche Nord, the waterway generally is the river itself, twisting through immense forests and rocky cliffs
that tower above the river. The towns of France and Belgium along the way are often interesting, particularly in
regard to their major importance in the history of the First and Second World Wars.

Passing southbound through the forests of the Ardennes, travelers can connect through Champagne to Paris and
the Burgundy canals or stay on Canal de l'Est to the city of Nancy for connections with Lorraine/Alsace/Rhine
or with the Rivers Saône & Rhône to go south to the Med. (Note that the Canal des Ardennes is actually in the
Champagne region; it does point toward the Ardennes mountains and forests, but does not enjoy their scenery.)
There are a few rental boat bases for holidays in this region, particularly Ardennes Nautisme with a fleet of
pénichettes. This is an area of changeable weather, so frequent rain must be anticipated. But once anticipated,
don't let it be a deterrent or a beautiful and isolated cruise might be missed.

Alsace:
Although it's a small cruising region, Alsace can be an interesting stop for through-travelers or a pleasant week
for a holiday cruise. At the south is Colmar, a city adjacent to the vineyards and mountains of the Vosges.
The Canal du Rhône au Rhin-Branche Nord leads past German-style villages to Strasbourg, where you can moor
right in the middle of this interesting and important city.

Lorraine:
This is a region of forests and mountain scenery, often mentioned as some of the most beautiful canal areas in
France. The inclined-plane boatlift at Arzviller is an amazing experience, visited by non-boating tourists to watch
canal boats being lifted up a hillside structure that replaces 17 locks. At the heart of the mountain area in
Lutzelbourg and Saverne rental boats are available from the major companies.
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Waterways of France

WATERWAYS NOT CONNECTED TO THE NETWORK

Brittany:
Napoleon initiated the construction of a canal to connect Nantes with Brest on the spine of the Breton peninsula,
so that freight could be moved safe from the threat of British warships in the Atlantic Ocean. Unfortunately a
am built in the 20th Century interrupted the path of the Canal de Nantes à Brest and left two separated sections.
But the canal continues to offer pleasure cruisers a wide variety of pleasant scenery in an area rarely visited by
tourists. It is connected to the sea by the Aulne, Blavet, Vilaine and Loire and the Canal d'Ille et Rance.

Maine/Anjou:
The navigable Rivers Mayenne, Oudon and Sarthe combine to form the River Maine; 11 km further on, the
Maine joins the River Loire at Angers. These rivers, especially the Mayenne, are popular for short cruises on
rental boats. The scenery is unspectacular but the cruising is often remote from towns and main roads. Ancient
rural villages, a working watermill and a river washhouse are found interspersed with castles and manor houses
in this culturally rich region. The city of Le Mans, famous for the 24-hour sports car race every June, is located
at the northern end of navigation on the Sarthe.

Loire Valley:
The River Loire and its tributary the River Cher are often too shallow for navigation and so are mostly ignored
by hotel barges and rental boat companies, with one exception: the hotel barge Nymphea was specially adapted
for shallow waters and carries six passengers on this beautiful waterway that has served cargo and freight barges
since Roman times.

Atlantic Coast - Bay of Biscay:

A significant network in its own right, the river Sèvre-Niortaise and a series of small marshland canals known
as La Venise Verte (Green Venice) is little known but a good destination for trailed boats or inflatables. Even if
you arrive without a boat, local boatmen will take visitors through the maze of channels for a unique experience.

A week aboard a self-skippered boat on the river Charente will confirm the guidebooks' descriptions of
"beautiful, idyllic, luxuriant wildlife, rich diversity of architecture"; at Cognac you will surely want to visit the
cellars and distilleries of the famous liqueur.

Dordogne offers 117 km of tidal waters from the Gironde near the city of Bordeaux. The upper part of the river
is the location of the deep limestone gorges for which the river is best known (canoe and kayak territory only.)

The river Garonne leads from Bordeaux to the Canal latéral à la Garonne, together forming the western half of
the through-route from the Bay of Biscay to the Med, sometimes called the Canal des Deux Mers. Most cruising
activity is centered at the confluence of the Baise, Lot and Garonne rivers near Agen. This is a warm area with
plentiful sunshine and breezes; along the banks are many vineyards and orchards.

The river Baïse has recently been improved for navigation and is an attractive short cruising route into Gascony
and the Armagnac area.

The river Lot is navigable for 50km upstream to Villeneuve, then after a non-navigable section there are rental
boats based on the 64 km section from Luzech to St. Cirq, which includes the city of Cahors and the beautiful
gorges of the Upper Lot.
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Waterways of France

Cruising Guides for French Waterways

These books are written in English, unless noted. Because the authors are British, the style and context is often
intended for UK readers.

Cruising French Waterways, by Hugh McKnight,

3rd Edition. Adlard Coles Nautical, London, 1999. Softbound, 9 ¾" H X 7 ½" W, 303 pages.
Black & white photos. GBP 19.99
This is the classic guide, generally accepted as the standard descriptive work covering all of the waterways in the
extensive French network. The author has personally traveled on every waterway for over thirty years, usually
aboard his canal cruiser Avonbay. Organized by region, each waterway is described in great detail. Included in
the description are comments regarding navigation, history, restaurants, shopping and interesting local features.
Each chapter starts with a paragraph or two that summarize the waterway, followed by a Brief History that can
often cover several centuries of activities in constructing and using the canal or river. Photos and hand-drawn
maps supplement some chapters. Although there is a worthwhile, but brief, discussion of selecting a vessel and
preparing for a cruise, the author notes that "The intention of this book is to describe the waterways themselves."
He then goes on to do just that in a very enjoyable, though somewhat dense style. This is a book that should be
read first at home before beginning the journey, then on board each night before the next day's travel. Even at
the slow speed of canal cruising, it is not suitable for the helmsman to be looking at this book as the boat
approaches a lock or mooring. However, be aware that new editions do not necessarily mean up-to-date
information; many of the sections are dated and inaccurate.

Inland Waterways of France, by David Edwards-May ISBN 085288 472 9

7th Edition, 2001 Imray, Laurie, Norie & Wilson, London. Hardbound, 9 ¾" H X 7 ½" W, 300 pages. GBP30.
The publisher states that this book is "The standard guide to the French canals and navigable rivers, including
maps and distance tables for each waterway, giving the user a general view of the geography of each waterway
as well as a detailed cockpit reference." And I agree, this is an excellent and useful book, much more recently
updated than those above.

These two books can be ordered directly from the publisher at www.imray.com

Through the French Canals, by Philip Bristow

Revised by David Jefferson, 9th Edition. Adlard Coles Nautical, London, 1999.
Softbound, 8 ¼" H X 5 ¾" W, 198 pages. Black & white photos. About $20.
This is a book for through-route travelers, providing useful information on how to get from here to there. It
begins with descriptions of four routes from the English Channel to the Mediterranean Sea. Most of the book is
devoted to 43 suggested routes to get from Point A to Point B along various waterways. For each
section of navigation, the distance and number of locks are shown, along with a very brief (less than one full
sentence) mention of the features of the villages and other sites. At the front of the book is the sole map, locating
most of the routes on a map of France.
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Waterways of France

NL
Dunkerque
87 88
Calais
86
89
90
BELGIUM
84 83
GERMANY
FRANCE
82
85
81
80
78
61 79
Canals 60 77 LX
Rivers Le Havre 55 59
76 65

58 62 63 Reims 66
54 6 64 69
10
5756 70
68
9 11 67 Nancy
Brest PARIS 8 Strasbourg
72
St Malo 7
71
13
46 49 5 12
0
45 52 Colmar 73
47 74
51 53 14 75
48 4 1
44
50 Tours 2
43 75
42 40 3
Nantes 41
St Jean
Nevers
16 de Losne SWITZER
39
38
37
18
LAND
15
36 17

Roanne 21
35
Lyon

34
ITALY
Bordeaux 19
33
28 29
30
Cahors 20
Buzet
31 27
Avignon
Montpelier 24
32 19
23 22
Toulouse 26
25

SPAIN © Copyright 2006 EuroCanals

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NAME OF WATERWAY MAP FROM TO LENGTH LOCKS DRAFT HEIGHT LOCK SIZE NAV
River Yonne + 0 Montereau Auxerre 108 km 26 1.80 m 4.40 m 90 m x 8 m B
Canal de Bourgogne + + + 1 Migennes St-Jean-de-Losne 242 189 1.80 3.40 38 x 5.0 A
Canal du Nivernais + + + 2 Auxerre Decize 174 110 1.20 2.70 30.5 x 5.2 A
Canal lateral a la Loire 3 Briare Digoin 196 37 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.05 B
Canal de Briare + 4 Buges Briare 54 32 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.2 B
Canal du Loing + 5 St Mammes Buges 49 19 1.80 3.50 39.1 x 5.2 B
River Seine (Aval or Basse) + 6 Paris Rouen 242 6 3.50 6.00 180 x 11.4 C
River Seine (Maritime) + 6 Rouen Tancarville 96 0 n/a n.a n/a C
River Seine (Amont or Haute) + 7 Paris Montereau 101 8 2.80 5.50 180 x 11.4 B
River Seine (Petite) + 8 Montereau Marcilly 68 11 1.40 3.40 38.5 x 5.05 B
River Marne + 9 Charenton Epernay 182 18 1.80 4.40 45 x 7.6 B
Canal de l'Ourcq + + 10 Paris Port-aux-Perches 108 10 0.80 2.50 59 x 3.1 B
Canal lateral a la Marne 11 Epernay Vitry-le-Francois 66.5 15 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.2 B
Canal de la Marne a la Saone + + 12 Vitry-le-Francois Heuilley-sur-Saone 224 114 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.0 B
Canal de l'Est-Sud (Vosges) + + 13 Neuves-Maisons Corre 123 93 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.05 B
River Saone (Petite) + + 14 Corre St-Symphorien 158 19 1.80 3.50 40 x 5.2 B
River Saone (Basse) + + 15 St-Symphorien Lyon 213 5 2.00 6.00 185 x 12 B
Canal du Centre + 16 Digoin Chalon-sur-Saone 112 61 1.80 3.50 39.5 x 5.1 B
Canal de Roanne a Digoin + 17 Digoin Roanne 55.6 10 1.80 3.50 39.5 x 5.1 B
River Seille + + 18 Louhans River Saone 39 4 1.30 3.50 30.5 x 5.0 A
River Rhone + + 19 Lyon Port-St-Louis 310 12 3.00 7.00 190 x 11.5 B
Chute de Donzere/Mondragon 20 Donzere Mondragon 28 1 3.00 7.00 195 x 12 B
Haut Rhone & C. de Savieres + + 21 Sault-Brenaz Aix-les-Bains 79 3 2.00 5.50 9.0 x 3.4 B
Canal du Rhone a Bouc 22 River Rhone Port-de-Bouc 27 1 2.50 6.00 90 x 10 C
Petit Rhone + + 23 Fourques St-Gilles 57 1 2.20 5.70 195 x 12 B
Canal du Rhone a Sete + 24 Beaucaire Sete 100 1 1.80 5.00 70 x 8 B
C. de la Robine (or Nouvelle) + + 25 Salleles Port-la-Nouvelle 37 13 1.80 3.00 30 x 5.5 A
Canal du Midi + + + 26 Agde Toulouse 240 64 1.60 3.00 30 x 5.5 A
River Herault + 26 Med @ Agde Bessan 12 1 1.60 3.70 40.5 x 5.6 B
Canal lateral a la Garonne + 27 Toulouse Castets 193 53 1.80 3.50 38 x 5.8 B
River Garonne 28 Castets Bec d'Ambes 79 0 1.80 3.60 n/a C
River Lot + + 29 Luzec St Cirq 64 14 0.80 3.70 30 x 5.0 A
River Lot + + 30 Nicole Villeneuve 50 4 1.50 3.50 30 x 5.2 B
River Baise + + 31 St-Leger Valence 55 19 1.00 3.00 30 x 4.2 B
River Adour 32 Pouy Bayonne 72 0 1.90 4.00 n/a B
River Dordogne 33 St-Pierre-d'Eyraud Bec d'Ambes 117 0 1.40 8.00 n/a C
River Isle 34 Sablons Libourne 31 0 1.00 3.80 n/a C
River Charente + + 35 Angouleme Atlantic Ocean 167 21 0.70 3.0/3.5 34 x 6.0 B
Canal du Mignon 36 Mauze-le-Mignon Bazoin 18 4 0.90 2.80 30 x 4.15 A
R. Sevre Niortaise + + 37 Niort Atlantic Ocean 72 9 1.00 2.20 30 x 4.15 A
Canal de la Vielle Autize + + 38 Coudault Bazoin 10 1 0.90 2.15 26 x 4.15 A
Canal de la Jeune Autize + + 39 Souil Maille 9 1 0.50 1.60 6 x 2.8 A
River Cher + 40 Noyers Vallet 41 12 0.70 4.00 34 x 5.0 A
River Sevre Nantaise + 41 Nantges Monnieres 21 1 1.20 5.50 31.5 x 5.5 A
River Loire 42 Bouchemaine Nantes 85 0 n/a 4.50 n/a C
Loire Maritime 43 Nantes St. Nazaire 53 0 n/a n.a n/a C

Waterway Notes:
1) Waterways can be located on the map by the index number, which generally spiral clockwise from 0 in the center.
2) Plus-marks following the name indicate a scenic and pleasure rating:
+ Pleasant, some picturesque sections
++ Pleasant, picturesque, recommended
+++ Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise
3) NAV column indicates the relative difficulty of navigation:
A Easiest; little or no commercial traffic, slow currents
B Some sections have intense traffic, current and/or shallow places
C Heavy commercial traffic, strong currents; experience required
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NAME OF WATERWAY MAP FROM TO LENGTH LOCKS DRAFT HEIGHT LOCK SIZE NAV
Canal de Nantes a Brest + + 44 Nantes Redon 95 15 0.80 2.40 26 x 4.60 A
Canal de Nantes a Brest + + 45 Redon Pontivy 110 90 0.80 2.40 26 x 4.60 A
Canal de Nantes a Brest + + 46 Chateaulin Carhaix Plouger 76 34 1.10 3.00 25 x 4.30 A
Canal du Blavet + 47 Pontivy Lorient 70 28 1.40 2.60 26 x 4.60 B
River Vilaine + 48 Penestin Rennes 137 13 1.20 2.50 26 x 4.5 A
Canal d'Ille et Rance + + + 49 Le Chatelier Rennes 85 48 1.10 2.50 26.5 x 4.50 A
River Maine 50 Angers Bouchemaine 11 1 1.60 4.00 10 x n/a A
River Oudon 51 Segre Mayenne 18 3 1.40 4.10 30 x 5.0 A
River Mayenne + 52 Mayenne Angers 123 45 1.40 2.80 30 x 5.0 A
River Sarthe 53 Le Mans Angers 134 km 20 1.10 m 3.90 m 30 x 5.0 A
Canal Maritime de l'Orne 54 Ouistreham Caen 14 1 4.20 33.00 225 x 28.5 C
Canal de Tancarville 55 Tancarville Le Havre 25 2 3.50 7.00 185 x 23.0 C
Canal St. Martin + + 56 Paris Paris 5 9 1.90 4.30 40.7 x 7.70 A
Canal St. Denis 57 Paris Paris 7 7 2.60 4.44 61.5 x 8.0 B
River Oise 58 Janville River Seine 104 7 2.20 5.25 180 x 11.4 B
Canal lateral a l'Oise 59 Abbecourt Janville 34 4 2.20 3.50 39 x 6.0 B
Canal du Nord 60 Arleux Pont l'Eveque 95 19 2.20 3.70 91 x 5.7 B
Canal de la Somme + 61 St Simon St Valery 136 23 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.1 B
River Aisne 62 Compiegne Celles 57 7 2.00 4.20 46 x 7.95 B
Canal lateral a la Aisne 63 Celles Vieux-les-Asfeld 51 8 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.0 B
Canal de l'Aisne a la Marne 64 Berry-au-Bac Conde-sur-Marne 58 24 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.0 B
Canal des Ardennes 65 Vieux-les-Asfeld Pont a Bar 88 44 1.80 3.50 38.5 5.0 B
Canal de l'Est branche Nord + + 66 Troussey Givet 272 59 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.05 B
C. de la Marne au Rhin (Ouest) 67 Vitry-le-Francois Toul 132 98 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.05 B
C. de la Marne au Rhin (Est) + + + 68 Frouard Strasbourg 160 56 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.05 B
River Moselle + 69 Neuves-Maisons Apach 150 16 2.50 4.25 176 x 12.0 C
Canal des Houilleres de la Sarre + 70 Gondrexange Sarreguemines 64 27 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.0 B
Canal du Rhone au Rhin (Nord) 71 Rhinau Strasbourg 36 12 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.0 B
River Rhin 72 Basel Lauterbourg 184 10 2.10 6.75 185 x 23.0 C
Canal de Colmar 73 Breisach Colmar 23 3 1.80 3.65 38.7 x 5.10 A
Grand Canal d'Alsace 74 Basel Breisach 52 4 3.10 6.75 180 x 22.8 C
Canal du Rhone au Rhin + + 75 St-Symphorien Niffer 236 114 1.80 3.50 38.7 x 5.10 B
Canal de l'Oise a l'Aisne 76 Abbecourt Bourg-et-Comin 48 13 2.00 3.60 40 x 6.0 B
Canal de la Sambre a l'Oise 77 Fargnieres Landrecies 71 38 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.0 B
River Sambre 78 Landrecies Jeumont 52 9 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.05 B
Canal de St. Quentin 79 Chauny Cambrai 92 35 2.20 3.50 38.5 x 5.60 B
River Escaut 80 Cambrai Montagne-du-Nord 58 11 2.20 3.50 38.5 x 5.60 C
River Scarpe 81 Arras Montagne-du-Nord 60 15 1.80 3.70 38.5 x 5.05 B
Canal de la Deule 82 Bauvin Deulemont 36 4 2.50 3.90 38.5 x 5.0 C
Canal de Roubaix 83 Marquette Roubaix 20 12 2.00 3.60 38.5 x 5.0 B
River Lys 84 Aire-sur-la-Lys Menin 65 8 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.0 B
Liaison Dunkerque Escaut 85 Dunkerque Pont-Mailn 143 8 3.00 4.48 143 x 11.4 C
Canal de Calais 86 Calais River Aa 29 1 2.00 3.47 92 x 8.0 B
River Aa 87 Gravelines Watten 26 1 1.80 4.50 38.5 x 5.05 B
Canal de Bourbourg 88 Dunkerque River Aa 21 3 1.80 3.50 B B
Canal de Bergues 89 Dunkerque Bergues 8 0 1.80 3.50 n/a B
Canal de Furnes 90 Dunkerque Belgium 13 1 1.80 3.50 38.5 x 5.05 B

CHARTS & GUIDES

This table has been compiled from data included in the charts listed below; it should be used for overall planning purposes only, fol-
lowed by a detailed study of specific charts and guidebooks for the intended trip.
Bienvenue sur le réseau de Voies navigables de France (Welcome to the navigable waterways of France) published by VNF, 175
rue Ludovic Boutleux, BP 820, 62408 BETHUNE Cedex, France
Navicarte #21, France Itineraires Fluviaux, published by Éditions Grafocarte, 125 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, BP 40, 92132
ISSY-LES-MOULINEAUX Cedex, France
Les Voies Navigables de France, published by Éditions du Breil, Domaine de Fitou, Le Breil, 11400 CASTELNAUDARY, France
Carte Vagnon #1, Carte de France des Voies Navigables, published by Les Éditions du Plaisancier, BP 27, 69641 CALUIRE, France
Map of the Inland Waterways of France, K. Nussbaum, published by Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd., Wych House, The
Broadway, St Ives Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire PE17 4BT, England
 Waterways of Northern France

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Overview Map, showing the connecting waterways; see page 8 for details.

London
ENGLAND FRANCE
Oostende
Dover Nieuwpoort
Dunkerque Brugge/Bruges
Gravelines Antwerpen/Anvers
Calais Gent/Gand
Leie Brussel/Bruxelles
English Channel Lys
Bovenschelde
BELGIUM
Deule
(la Manche) Lille

Scarpe
Escaut

Le Havre
FRANCE

Canal de la Somme
Seine Canal de St Quentin
Canal du Nord
Oise/C lat a l'Oise/Sambre
Liaisons a Grand Gabarit
Paris

Copyright EuroCanals 2002

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Waterways of Northern France

Canal Network and 4 Rivers: Lys/Leie, Deûle, Scarpe, Escaut/Bovenschelde

by Tom Sommers October 2002

The region of France named Nord-Pas-de-Calais is often not treated well in publications; it is ignored by
most tourist guides and cut off on maps (it is more efficient to print the northern tip of France as an inset.)
But it does rate its own waterway guidebook, as there are many canals and rivers that are important routes
for travelers arriving in or departing from France, either by sea or via the Belgian waterways. Crowded
into an area that is only four percent of the landmass of the country are 27% of the named navigable
waterways.

It is difficult to plan a route through this region when using a waterway chart of all of France, and not
much easier when going page-by-page through the guidebook. The purpose of this report is to help in
planning by depicting these canals and rivers on maps and a datasheet, showing their major characteristics
and how they interconnect with each other.

There are three main features of the region (refer to the map on page 2):

1. The seaports on the English Channel and the canals that connect these ports with each other and with
ports in Belgium. The waterways are mostly straightline manmade canals.

2. The liaisons au grand gabarit, a main route that crosses the region, rises slowly and connects with
waterways further inland.

3. The four major canalized rivers of Northern France. Not all rivers in northern France lead to Gent,
Belgium, but if you follow them downstream these four navigable rivers certainly do. From there you can
continue inland to Antwerp and The Netherlands, or exit to the North Sea at Terneuzen. These rivers all
flow northward and are crossed at their southern portion by the liaisons au grand gabarit.
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Major Waterways

Liaisons au grand gabarit (also called the Dunkerque - Escaut Liaison)

The term “grand gabarit” means large gauge in French; the liaisons au grand gabarit are a series of
individual canals connected end-to-end across northern France, providing heavy-tonnage commercial
barges a route to seaports from the industrial cities of northern France and southern Belgium.

The “grand gabarit” barges are much larger than the “peniche” which are seen throughout France and
Belgium; the latter were built to the “Freycinet” gauge, introduced in the 19th century by M. Freycinet, the
minister of transport. Here is a comparison of the two gauges (all of the waterways in this report are at
least Freycinet gauge; many are of the larger gauge, refer to the detailed descriptions of each):

Dimension grand gabarit Freycinet (peniche)

Length (of locks) 144.6 meters 38.5 meters
Width (of locks) 12.0 5.0
Depth (water draft, minimum) 3.0 1.8
Height (air draft, minimum) 4.5 3.5

Although the liaisons au grand gabarit consists of nine named waterways, including several natural
rivers, for all practical purposes it is a single canal, staightline, manmade and concrete-walled. Heading
inland to the southeast from Dunkerque on the North Sea, the route includes parts of Canal de Bourbourg,
Canal de la Haute Colme and the river Aa. In this section the canal remains very close to sea level; there
is but one lock, at Watten, and that lock rises less than one meter. The land here is generally low, flat and
marshy; it includes the parc naturel regional de l’Audomarois, an extensive area crisscrossed by small
watercourses and fields of vegetables.

Near St Omer the canal rises to another level through two locks (4 m and 13 m), then continues for 78 km
along the Canal de Neuffossé and Canal d’Aire with only one lock (2 m rise.) It is in the middle of this
section, at the town of Aire, that the river Lys heads off to the north, climbing into Belgium.

At the town of Douai the land rises once again (14 m in three locks) as it follows the Canal de la Deûle, a
section of the river Scarpe and Canal de la Sensée. The surrounding land is now the plateau named Plaine
de Scarpe et l’Escaut. The canal connects with the river Escaut at bassin rond near the town of Estrun and
turns north toward Belgium at PK 0, 143 kilometers from Dunkerque.

The final portion of the liaisons au grand gabarit is the river Escaut, which follows its natural bed past
the city of Valenciennes and continues the last 45 kilometers to the border at Mortagne-du-Nord, with
connections into central and eastern Belgium via the Canal du Centre at Condé.
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The Four Major Rivers

la Lys/Leie
The navigable Lys begins at Aire-sur-la-Lys on the liaisons au grand gabarit and flows northeast to a
junction with the Deûle near the Belgian border, then into Belgium where the name becomes the Leie.
From Aire to Armentières the river winds across flat agricultural land, dropping slowly through six locks;
in this section it is a Freycinet-gauge waterway.

At Armentières there is a full-service port in the small city. For the next 24 km to Menen the border
follows along the canal; this section is known as the Lys Mitoyenne (middle Lys); on the Belgian side, it is
the Grensleie. Six kilometers northeast of Armentières, at Deûlemont, the river is joined by the Canal de
la Deûle and becomes a larger-scale waterway, with locks 115 X 12.50 meters, part of a main through-
route from central France to Gent. There are two popular fuel stations with red diesel here within a few
kilometres of each other, at Comines and Menen, both in Belgium; the price of diesel fuel is substantially
less in Belgium than in France.

Southwest of Gent (Gand is the local name), the large-scale canal route bypasses the city as the
Afleidingskanaal, and the river winds on a twisting route into the center of the city. From Gent, the
Kanaal Gent-Terneuzen is a straight line north into the North Sea at Terneuzen.
la Deûle/Canal de le Deûle
The canal begins at Douai as a part of the liaisons au grand gabarit, then at Bauvin it turns north through
the city of Lille and continues 12 kilometers northwest to end at a junction with the Lys at Deûlemont. It
is a large-scale canal route that serves the industrial area around Lille and connects northbound traffic to
the Lys. There is a connection to the dead-end Canal de Roubaix.

Although this canal shouldn’t be considered a scenic pleasure-cruising route, Lille has an old quarter with
several interesting landmarks that can be visited from a mooring near the citadel. Otherwise, it mainly
serves as a useful connector for traffic from Paris to Gent.

la Scarpe
Beginning as la Scarpe supérieure at Arras, the river flows through the center of Douai and continues
northeast as la Scarpe inférieure to a junction with the Escaut at Mortagne-du-Nord near the Belgian
border. Although it is a picturesque waterway with old locks and liftbridges in Douai, it is not navigable
within the city; there is a 9 km bypass along the liaisons au grand gabarit.

Between Douai and the border, the river is a Freycinet-gauge waterway. It follows a winding path through
the parc naturel régional de la plaine de la Scarpe et de l’Escaut, avoiding most of the industry prevalent
in northern France. There are small villages and hiking trails in wooded areas. As opposed to the Deûle,
this is not busy through-route; it can be an enjoyable cruise through pleasant countryside.

l’Escaut/Bovenschelde
The river Escaut begins in France as the northern portion of the Canal de St Quentin; it flows northward
through Cambrai, Valenciennes and Condé and is joined by the Scarpe near Montagne-du-Nord, where it
flows into Belgium. Called the Haut Escaut (Upper Escaut) within the Belgian province of Hainaut, it
flows through Tournai/Doornik and into the province of East Flanders, becoming the Bovenschelde
(Upper Schelde) and continuing north through Gand/Gent inland to Antwerp and The Netherlands.
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Dead-End Waterways

Canal de Bergues
This canal is very short (8 kilometers), there are no locks and it dead-ends at the fortified town of
Bergues. There is a very pleasant mooring with both electricity and water available and the town has two
superb restaurants, au Cornet d'Or and le Berguenard. This is a quieter, more secure mooring than at the
seaports, while only an hour or two away.

Canal de Roubaix
The industrial Roubaix is not navigable beyond the second lock above Lille, at Wasquehal. When the
canal was in service, it was a useful connector from Lille to the Escaut/Bovenschelde in Belgium.

Canal de Lens
Only 8 km long and terminating at the uninteresting town of Lens, this canal serves a few commercial
barges and offers little to attract cruising boaters.

La Scarpe supérieure
A short dead-end cruise upstream from Douai on la Scarpe supérieure to Arras, a town of outstanding
architectural beauty, can be a good place for a rest from travel along the busier waterways.

Through Routes

Entering from the sea, destination coastal/central Belgium or Holland: enter at Dunkerque, follow the
Canal de Furnes then Belgian canals to Brugge and Gent.

Entering from the sea, destination France or Germany: enter at Calais, Gravelines or Dunkerque, follow
the liaisons au grand gabarit into northern France.

The fastest route from Paris to western Belgium follows the Canal du Nord onto the liaisons au grand
gabarit at Arleux then connecting via the Deûle to the Lys, then the Leie into Belgium.

Chartbook/Waterway Guide
Only one of the three publishers of chartbooks for French waterways offers books for this area:
“navicarte”, published by Éditions Grafocarte, 125, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau – BP 40, 92132 ISSY-
LES-MOULINEAUX CEDEX, France http://www.grafocarte.fr
The pertinent guides include: #14 Voies Navigables Nord-Pas-de-Calais; #24 Voies Navigable Picardie;
#23 Itinéraires Fluviaux de Belgique.

A more detailed guide for Belgium is TOERISTISCHE VAARGIDS (Guide Touristique Fluvial) in
Dutch and French. This 272 page book covers West-Flanderen, Oost-Flanderen, Vlaams-Brabant,
Brussel, Brabant Wallon, Hainaut and Nord-Pas de Calais, i.e. west Belgium as far east as Antwerp,
Brussels and Charleroi in the east, and includes the French canals from Calais to Cambrai. It is available
from the West Flandres offices in Bruges. Address: West-Vlaamse Vereniging Vrije Tijd, Provinciehuis
Abdijbeke, Abdijbekestraat 9, 8200 Sint-Andries, Belgium. Email: tim.provoost@west-vlaanderen.be
Tel: +32 (0) 50 40 70 43.
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Oostende Page 7

Nieuwpoort 31
Dunkerque 32
30 Brugge/Bruges
Gravelines 7 Veurne/Furnes
Calais 4
6 30
2
1 Bergues 29
Gent/Gand
5

Watten BELGIUM 16a

3
FR BE Leie
St Omer
16
23
8 Menen/Menin

FRANCE Armentieres Bovenschelde

15 13

Aire Lys 14
Wasquehal
Lille
Code Waterway
1 Canal de Calais
From
Calais
To
river Aa
Deule 12
Bleharies
9 Mortagne-du-Nord
2 river Aa Gravelines Watten Bauvin
27
3 river Aa Watten St Omer
4 C de Bourbourg river Aa Dunkerque
11
Scarpe Conde 26 28
5 C Haute Colme Watten Dunkerque Lens 10 19

6 C de Bergues Dunkerque Bergues Corbehem Douai

18 22 Valenciennes
7 C de Furnes Dunkerque Furnes
Arras 17
8 C de Neuffosse St Omer Aire
Arleux 20
Escaut
9 C d'Aire Aire Bauvin bassin rond
10 C de Lens Lens C de la Deule 21 FR BE
24
11 C de la Deule Douai Bauvin
12 C de la Deule Bauvin Lille Cambrai
13 C de la Deule Lille river Lys
25
14 C de Roubaix Lille Wasquehal
15 river Lys Aire Menin
16 river Leie Menen Gent NOTE: Towns/Cities in Belgium show the Belgian name first,
17 river Scarpe Arras Corbehem then the French usage of the name.
18 river Scarpe Corbehem Douai
19 river Scarpe Douai Mortagne Liaisons au grand gabarit route is shown in wider lines. It follows
20 C de la Sensee Corbehem bassin rond these canals from Dunkerque to Mortagne-du-Nord (Belgian border):
21 river Escaut Cambrai bassin rond Code Waterway
22 river Escaut bassin rond Mortagne 4 Canal de Bourbourg
23 Bovenschelde Mortagne Gent 5 Canal de la Haute Colme
Other Adjoining Waterways: 3 river Aa
24 C du Nord 8 Canal de Neuffosse
25 C St Quentin 9 Canal d'Aire
26 C Pommeroeul 11 Canal de la Deule
27 C Nimy 18 river Scarpe
28 C du Centre 20 Canal de la Sensee
29 Afleidingskanaal 22 river Escaut
30 Kanaal Gent-Oostende
31 Kanaal Plassendale-Nieuwpoort
32 Kanaal Nieuwpoort-Dunkerque Copyright EuroCanals 2002
Waterways of Northern France EuroCanals October 2002 Page 8

Map Waterway From To navicarte Distance Locks Draft Height Length/Beam Speed
Code guide # km meters meters meters km/hr
1 Canal de Calais Calais junction with river Aa 14 30 1 1.80 3.47 38.5 X 5.05 8
2 river Aa Gravelines Watten 14 18 1 1.80 5.0 38.5 X 5.05 8
3 river Aa Watten St. Omer 14 9 0 3.00 4.5 144.6 X 12.0 12
4 C. de Bourbourg junction with river Aa Dunkerque 14 21 3 1.80 3.65 38.5 X 5.05 8
5 C. de la Haute Colme Dunkerque Watten 14 23 2 3.00 4.50 144.6 X 12.0 12
6 C. de Bergues Dunkerque Bergues 14 8 0 1.80 3.50 38.5 X 5.05 8
7 C. de Furnes Dunkerque FR/BE border 14 13 1 1.80 3.81 38.5 X 5.05 8
8 C. de Neuffossé St. Omer Aire-sur-la-Lys 14 19 2 3.00 4.50 144.6 X 12.0 12
9 Canal d’Aire Aire-sur-la-Lys Bauvin 14 39 1 3.00 4.50 144.6 X 12.0 12
10 Canal de Lens Lens C. de la Deûle 14 8 0 1.80 3.50 38.5 X 5.00 8
11 C. de la Deûle Douai Bauvin 14 24 0 3.00 4.50 144.6 X 12.0 12
12 C. de la Deûle Bauvin Lille 14 20 2 3.00 4.50 144.6 X 12.0 12
13 C. de la Deûle Lille jct. river Lys at Deûlemont 14 16 1 2.50 3.74 90.0 X 5.75 12
14 C. de Roubaix C. de la Deûle Wasquehal 14 8 2 1.80 3.60 38.5 X 5.00 8
15 river Lys (France) Aire-sur-la-Lys Menin (FR/BE border) 14 65 7 1.80 3.50 38.5 X 5.05 8
16 river Leie (Belgium) Menen BE/FR border Deinze 23 41 2 2.30 4.42 115.0 X 12.50 9
16a river Leie (Belgium) Deinze Gent 23 22 1 1.90 4.19 115.0 X 5.20 9
17 river Scarpe Arras Corbehem 14 33 9 2.20 3.70 38.8 X 5.05 8
(supérieure)
18 river Scarpe Corbehem Douai 14 8 2 3.00 4.75 143.0 X 11.40 12
(canalized)
19 river Scarpe Douai Mortagne-du-Nord, 14 36 6 2.00 3.70 38.8 X 5.05 8
(inférieur) jct river Escaut
20 C. de la Sensée Corbehem bassin rond 24 & 14
21 river Escaut Cambrai bassin rond 24 & 14 13 5 2.20 3.50 38.5 X 6.0 10
22 river Escaut bassin rond Mortagne-du-Nord 14 45 6 2.50 4.50 144.6 X 12.0 12
(FR/BE border)
23 Bovenschelde Bléharies Gent 23 92 6 2.10 5.88 124.45 X 14 8
(FR/BE border)
24 C. du Nord Arleux jct C. de la Somme 24 66 14 2.20 3.70 91.0 X 5.70 10
25 Canal St Quentin Cambrai Chauny 24 92 35 2.20 3.50 38.5 X 5.60 10
4, 5, 3, 8, liaisons au grand Dunkerque Mortagne-du-Nord 14 189 14 3.00 4.50 144.6 X 12.0 12
9, 11, 18, gabarit (FR/BE border)
20,22
Note: navicarte guide # refers to guidebooks published by Éditions Grafocarte, 125, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau – BP 40, 92132 ISSY-LES-MOULINEAUX CEDEX, France
http://www.grafocarte.fr Guides include: #14 Voies Navigables Nord-Pas-de-Calais; #24 Voies Navigable Picardie; #23 Itinéraires Fluviaux de Belgique
 Waterways of
Southwestern France

Castelnaudary, Canal du Midi

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Entre Deux Mers - "Between Two Seas"

The canal des deux mers is a through-route from the Atlantic to the Med, but that
is not the main attraction of cruising the waterways of the sud ouest. In fact, some PARIS
who use this route find the area too pleasant to leave and never finish the trip. There
are more than 700 kilometers of waterways to explore, along with charming small villages,
historic towns and two of the largest cities in France.
Canal latéral à la Garonne Rhône
Garonne Petit Rhône
Dordogne Canal du Rhône à Sète
Baïse Canal du Midi
Lot (Aval & Amont) Canal de la Robine

Saô
ne
Royan LYON
la

Massif
Gi
ron

e
cean

rr èz
de

Co

re Central
Atlantic O

zè
Isle Vé
Libourne
Lac de Lanau
Dordogne Lac de Sarrans
BORDEAUX

Villeneuve- Luzech Lot

Castets-en- sur-Lot
Dorthe Cregols
Lot Cahors
Buzet
Aveyron
Agen

Nerac
Moissac Tarn
Montauban Le
Ta z Beaucaire
rn
Montech
Albi
rs

Condom
Ge

Montpellier
ult

TOULOUSE
ra

ne Partage de l'eau rb
Hé

o O
im (Divide between
G Etang
ve the seas) Sète
Sa Béziers de Thau
se
Baï

Agde
Ar
ièg

n e
ron Carcassonne
e

Narbonne
Ga
e
Mediterranean
d
Au
Sea
Pyrenees
Elevation, 200
meters Toulouse
150

100

50 Bordeaux Agde
0
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Cruising in the southwest of France

It seems a safe statement to say that, with just a few exceptions, the majority of long-term canal cruiers begin
their travels in the north of the main waterway network, in Holland, Belgium or northern France. After a season
or two, many will then make the relatively long trip down the Saône and Rhône rivers to the Camargue and the
Canal du Midi. But more than a few will stop there, at a semi-permanent mooring (if one can be found) or to
return to the north. There are good reasons to continue on to the western end of the Midi and visit the regions of
Aqutaine and Gascogne in the far southwest of France.

One obvious reason is the longer cruising year, a full three seasons of generally good weather (in winter it does
occasionally snow in the Midi, but snow is very uncommon at the lower elevations to the west.) In cool
weather it is easy to find the warming rays of the sun on the relatively wide waters of the river Lot or along the
serpentine ribbon of the Baïse. If the sun becomes too much on hot summer days, there are always places near
the banks that are well shaded by poplar, cypress and plane trees.

A second reason is the variety of choices of cruising routes; if you were to arrive at Buzet-sur-Baïse by land, you
could choose to travel north,east, south or west, or a combination of all of these directions. In each direction
there are sights and experiences that would not be found on the other choices.

For those readers who enjoy holidays aboard self-skippered rental boats, the southwest offers hundreds of boats
at dozens of bases throughout the area, providing the possibility of one-way or roundtrip cruises on every portion
of the waterway network.

A few travelers will be "just passing through" on their way between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, as an
alternative to the long and possibly dangerous route around the Iberian peninsula.

For everyone, there is the attraction of visiting the vineyards of Bordeaux and the adjacent Sud-Ouest wine
regions. Although the mission of EuroCanals is to describe the waterways (and leave the complex world of
wines to other experts), this report includes a map and listing of the locations of the wine "Apellations" to be
found in the southwest, and in the Midi and Camargue as well. Some of these names are world famous, others
are less well known but perhaps may be a favorite of some readers. The map shows the proximity of most of the
vineyards to the waterways; in previous centuries, barges were the means of transportation for the wine. That
means that there are many good places to tie up for an excursion to explore the vineyards, by rental car or tour
bus, or in some cases even by bicycle.

It is not all vineyards, of course. There are other important agricultural products, particularly the plums of the
Agen area and the vegetables of Aquitaine. The bastides (fortified villages) and larger towns of the southwest
include beautiful and historic chateaux, mills and ancient stone buildings which now house restaurants, shops
and residences.

This report is intended as an overview of the entire region, and also includes information regarding the
connecting waterways at the eastern end. For details of each waterway, refer to existing and future EuroCanals
Guides.
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Rivers of the Sud-Ouest

The Waterways of Southwestern France are based on the river Garonne and its major tributaries, which together
flow to the Atlantic at Bordeaux. Transport of goods on these rivers began in the 13th century, when small boats
brought the agricultural products of the Armagnac region down the river Baïse, wine from Cahors down the river
Lot and later coal and timber down the river Tarn, all to be shipped to Great Britain or the French colonies from
the quais of the city of Bordeaux.

The Garonne flows 575 kilometers from its source high in the Pyrenees (in Spain, at 1,870 meters, 6,171 feet
elevation), first on a northeasterly path to Toulouse and then northwest past Bordeaux to the sea. Along the way
it is enhanced by the flows of over a dozen significant tributaries coming north from the Pyrenees or south from
the Massif Central. This of course makes the Garonne susceptible to large changes in water level and current,
and was one of the reasons for the construction of the Canal latèral à la Garonne. Commercial traffic required
a reliable and easily-navigated route between Toulouse, Bordeaux and the sea. Completed in 1856, this canal
joined the Canal du Midi (which was opened almost two centuries earlier) to form the route canal des deux mers,
linking the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. Now the Garonne river is navigable only in its tidal range, the final
150 kilometers that flow into the Atlantic.

For the record, the navigable waterways of the "Sud-Ouest" should include only those west of the watershed
divide at Col de Naurouze on the Canal du Midi, 54 kilometers east of Toulouse. The lands on the Mediterranean
side are in the region of Languedoc, and so the waterways there are in the South of France. They have been
included on the maps in this report because they directly connect to the southwestern waterways from the main
network of France, and may be part of a cruise in this area. 1

For those arriving in the southwest via the Canal du Midi, the waterways begin at Toulouse, in the Port de
l'Embouchure ("mouth of the river".) Here the flow of water which has come down the Canal du Midi is
enhanced by the waters of the river Garonne. A dam on the Garonne in the center of Toulouse maintains a level
which supplies the Canal de Brienne, a 1.57 km connection from the Garonne to the port. Cruising boats can
enter this canal, but there is no reason to do so as the lock at the Garonne end is restricted to passenger excursion
boats only.

From Toulouse the Canal latèral à la Garonne begins its 193 km route toward Bordeaux. The first 43 km are a
series of straight-line sections, with only a few small angles and curves. Then the waterway itself becomes more
interesting at the town of Montech.

First there is the entrance to the recently restored 11 km embranchment to the Tarn river at Montauban, a
pleasant side excursion. The canal includes 9 locks within a 5 km stretch, but passes alongside several chateaux
as well as a variety of different types of trees in the Agre forest. The Tarn is now only partially navigable,
although in the mid-1800s it could be traveled 147 kilometers from Albi to its junction with the Garonne at
Moissac; in 1840 the lower section of the river was bypassed after the opening of the Montech-Montauban canal.
This canal had been closed in 1990, but was recently restored and provides access to the port of Montauban.

1 Refer to EuroCanals Guides Camargue and Canal du Midi.

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Rivers of the Sud-Ouest

Montech is the site of a waterway curiousity, the water slope which bypasses a short section of five locks,
unfortunately only for the use of commercial barges or very large private vessels. It is of similar design as the
water slope at Fonserannes on the Canal du Midi, however the Montech pente d'eau was built first, and in fact
was the first in the world to use this design. Motorized tractors pull a sliding panel which forces a wedge of
water to travel up the slope, carrying the barge along. It is a very interesting sight if you should happen to be
there when a barge is passing through.

From Montech to Moissac the straight-line cruising is made pleasant by the trees and greenery that line both
banks of the canal, which follows three short straight sections, then crosses over the Tarn on an aqueduct, then
turns sharply left to follow alongside the river past the town of Moissac to the junction of the Tarn with the river
Garonne. There is access to the Tarn here, through a lock that allows a descent from the lateral canal to the final
five kilometers of the Tarn and into a small lake, Lac de St-Nicolas-de-la-Grave. The lake is a unique opportunity
during canal travel, a place for recreation in small sailing boats, canoes and kayaks and a mooring off the canal,
if only for a view of a somewhat larger expanse of water, or to do some birdwatching at Ile aux Oiseaux.

It may be difficult to find such a peaceful mooring again for the next 40 kilometers, as the main rail line often
runs directly alongside the canal. It is probably best to simply plan on stopping overnight in the next two towns,
Valence d'Agen and Agen, both of which should not be missed in any case. The small town of Valence d'Agen is
a good example of the bastide towns of southwestern France, with a regular grid of streets and spacious squares.
It is a center for markets and fairs throughout the summer. Agen is a medium-size city, famous for its very
successful Rugby team as well the production of Pruneau d'Agen (plums and prunes in varied forms); as is often
the case in France, there is a museum telling all about the production and enjoyment of the fruit.

Agen is approximately midway between Toulouse and Bordeaux, and is the only point where the canal crosses
over the river Garonne. The crossing is notable because it is done on a magnificent stone arch aqueduct, which
rivals the very beautiful canal bridge over the Loire at Briare. While the latter bridge is of delicate and detailed
cast-iron construction, the Agen bridge is a 580-meter series of 23 identical stone arches, each 20 meters wide.
Being aboard a boat during such a crossing is a rare and exciting experience.

Immediately west of the canal bridge are four locks, which descend to a long (22 km) pound with only one lock
of one meter fall, a restful section on the approach to the major waterways junction at Buzet. Shortly before
arriving at that town, the canal crosses another canal bridge, over the river Baïse. This one is not as grand and
interesting as the bridge at Agen, but it is worth taking the time for a view down to the river, especially should
you later cruise on the Baïse and pass under this same bridge. This is one of the few places in Europe where you
can pass over and under the same bridge by boat, perhaps within just an hour or two.

Buzet-sur-Baïse is the center of cruising activity on these waterways, a base from which it is possible to cruise
north, east, south or west (see page for a map and details.) For some travelers it may be simply a pleasant little
town for a stop on the way to Bordeaux. For others it offers the adventure and pleasure of cruising on natural
rivers, the Baïse south toward the Pyrenees or north on the Lot. Either of these routes will take you to historic,
pretty towns by way of scenic surroundings.

The narrow Baïse river winds through the unspoiled landscape of Gascony. The small stone locks (operated
automatically by a smart-card) are often near an old mill. The picturesque beige stone buildings of the mills,
towns and country chateaux display the long history of this area of vineyards, foie gras and Armagnac brandy.
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Rivers of the Sud-Ouest

The trip north from Buzet to the Lot is somewhat more adventurous, as it requires a crossing of the Garonne.
For most canal cruisers, this will require the (paid) services of an onboard pilot, or even being towed by a tug
along a 5 km section of the Garonne. Then, after a short run through a very narrow tree-covered channel, the
cruise on the Lot is on a relatively broad river but one with numerous rocky places and disused weirs. The
skipper must navigate carefully in a marked channel. But don't be deterred, as this river passes through a
magnificent valley of lofty cliffs, cultivated terraces and centuries-old mills, castles and toll towers.

The old locks on the Lot were closed to navigation for many years, but they are now being restored to service
because of the interest from recreational cruisers. Currently a canal boat can travel up the Lot Aval (downstream
Lot) for 67 km to Lustrac, where further travel is blocked by a weir. The Lot Amont (upstream Lot) begins 40 km
further on at Luzech; this is one of the best cruising rivers in all of France. Unfortunately it is inaccessible from
the waterway network, however there are several bases for rental of boats.2

Returning from these excursions, travelers along the Canal latèral à la Garonne will continue west along the route
toward Bordeaux. The final 60 km of the canal pass along a broad, flat valley that is one of the primary areas of
France for the growing of fruits and vegetables. The plums of Agen have already been mentioned, ahead are the
tomatoes of Marmande, strawberries, melons and, incongruously, the Gauloises tobacco factories of Tonneins.

The western stopping point for rented boats is at Castets-en-Dorthe, the end of the Canal latèral à la Garonne.
The Garonne maritime is a tidal river from that point to the sea, requiring a river license for the skipper and a
boat with sufficient power to maintain speed against strong currents.

Although there are several possible stopping places on both sides of the Garonne maritime, navigational
difficulties include strong currents, shoals, a channel that may be close to one bank and then the other and few
places for a deepwater mooring. It is recommended that the entire section to Bordeaux be completed in a single
day's run, timed to coincide with the outgoing tide when headed west. When headed upriver, depart Bordeaux 4
to 5 hours before high tide; the trip to Castets can be completed in about six hours. During the equinox periods,
a strong tidal bore may occur; obtain local information for dealing with this phenomenon.

At Bordeaux there are floating pontoons at three ports in the river and an off-river port is available, separated
from the tide by a lock. Bordeaux is a major city, with many historical and cultural sights. For many visitors it
will be used as a base for touring the extensive surrounding vineyards by rental car or on a bus tour.

The final tributary of the Garonne is the river Dordogne. At the point of land named Bec d'Ambès these two
rivers join together and enter a 70 km estuary, the Gironde. The Dordogne and its tributary the Isle cross the
northern portion of the Bordelais wine region. Commercial shipping has long been used to transport wine from
the area; barges regularly operate to Libourne and another 36 km to Chatillon-la-Bataille; small boats can travel
as far upstream as Bergerac. However not many cruising canal travelers visit the Dordogne. The usual stopping
point for a cruise through the Sud Ouest on a private canal cruiser or barge is at Bordeaux.

Properly equipped boats with experienced skippers can venture toward the sea on the Gironde to visit the famous
vineyard ports of Bourg, Blaye and Pauillac or the fishing and recreational ports at Mortagne and Royan. Before
setting out, obtain local information and arrange a suitable mooring by telephone; it is not permitted to anchor in
the estuary and many of the ports are dry at low tide.

2 See the EuroCanals Guide Lot Amont.

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Waterway Dimensions and Details Page 7

Dordogne river Between the Seas; Canal des Deux Mers:

Bec d'Ambès to Libourne, 42 km Garonne, Canal latéral à la Garonne, Canal du Midi
No locks, Draft 4.50m, Height 24.8m Bordeaux (Bec d'Ambes) to Med via C. de la Robine = 451 km, 146 locks
Libourne to Castillon, 36 km Bordeaux (Bec d'Ambes) to Med at Agde = 492 km, 158 locks
No locks, Draft 1.0m, Height 5.0m Bordeaux (Bec d'Ambes) to Rhône at Arles = 626 km, 159 locks
(For experienced boaters only)

Garonne river
Bec d'Ambès to Bordeaux, 25 km
Tidal, No locks, Height 51m
Royan Bordeaux to Castets-en-Dorthe, 54 km
Tidal, No locks, Draft 1.8m, Height 6.5m
(Draft & Height vary with tide)
la
Gi
ron
de

Lot Aval Canal du Rhône à Sète

Bec d'Ambès
Libourne
BORDEAUX
Castets-en-Dorthe
Garo onne river,
conn nection
n e Lot-Baïse
Nico oole to St-Lé Buzet
No llocks, Draft 1.20m,
Heiigght 3.50m
(see
eee details, page 8) Nerac
Condom
Baïse river
St-L ger to Lavardac, 17 km
4 locks, 30m X 5.20m
Draft 1.50m, Height 3.00m
Lavardac to Valence, 46 km
17 locks, 30m X 4.20m
Draft 1.00m, Height 3.00m
Note: In an exception to the
usual rule throughout France,
the banks of this river from
Lavardac to Valence are
privately owned and are not
available for mooring; stop
only at public ports, shown
on charts and marked by signs..
Nicole to St Sylvestre-sur-Lot, 59 km Sète to Beaucaire, 98 km
5 locks, 27.5m X 5.2m 1 lock, 80m X 12.0m
Castillon- Draft 1.20m, Height 3.50m Draft 1.80m, Height 3.50m
la-Bataille Lot Amont
Luzech to Cregols, 64 km le Petit Rhône
St-Gilles lock to Arles, 21 km
14 locks, 30m X 5.0m
Draft 1.0m, Height 3.70m 1 lock, 195m X 12.0m
St Sylvestre- Draft 1 to 3m, Height 2.50m
Nicole sur-Lot Luzech
Cregols
St-Léger Canal latéral à la Garonne
Agen
53 locks 40.5m X 6.0m
Lavardac
Moissac Draft 1.40m, Height 3.50m
Montauban (Locks to the Tarn at Moissac and
Baise at Buzet are 30.5m X 6.0m.) Beaucaire
Arles
Montech Embranchement Montech-Montauban:
11 km, 11 locks 30.5m X 6.0m St-Gilles
Valence- Draft 1.80m, Height 3.50m
sur-Baïse TOULOUSE Etang
Etang
Sète
Canal du Midi Port-la-Robine A
Agde
Toulouse to Agde, 240 km
92 locks, 30m X 5.5m Carcassonne Narbonne
Draft 1.50m, Height 3.30m Port-la-Nouvellee Mediterranean
(Height at 5.5m width = 2.40m)
Sea
Canal de Jonction/de la Robine
Port Robine to Port-la-Nouvelle, 36 km
13 locks, 40.5m X 5.85m
Draft 1.40m, Height 3.30m
 Can
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Page 8
Junction of the Garonne, Lot & Baïse

Midway along the Canal latéral à la Villeneuve-sur-Lot

Garonne between Toulouse and Castets-en- Nicole St Sylvestre-sur-Lot
Bordeaux, the junction of three water- Dorthe The Lot is navigable
Le
ways at Buzet offers a variety of er to Lustrac (67 km).

à la latéral
Canalet

nne
iv
cruising opportunities.Travelers on the
otr

Garo
L

ver
canal can take a side-excursion on the

l
Cana

e ri
Lot or the Baïse. Self-skippered rental Aiguillon
5 km

onn
boats from bases at Agen, Buzet,

Gar
St Sylvestre or Mas d'Agenais can use The Garonne river is navigable only between
this junction to expand the range of St-Léger and Nicole; see note at left.
their cruise.
St-Léger
Double lock, 40.50m X 5.20m
Limitations & Cautions

1. Crossing the Garonne, St-Léger to

5 km r
Nicole: rive
ïse
The river may be closed to navigation Ba
at times or high water or low water.
Buzet-sur-Baïse
Rental boats must cross under the
control of a professional pilot, at a fee
of 18 euros each way. A side-canal (see photo below)
connects through a double lock
Privately-owned vessels may be to the Baïse river.
allowed to cross unsupervised if the Locks are 30.65m X 6.00m, Agen
engine has sufficient power and the Draft 1.50m, Height 3.75m. pont canal
operator is licensed for river travel.
Agen
For information, call VNF - Agen at Canal latéral
The Baïse is navigable to
+33 (0)5 53 47 31 15 à la Garonne
Valence-sur-Baïse (58 km).

2. On the Baïse: Lavardac

Normal draft is 1.50m from St-Léger

to Lavardac, then 1.0m above Lavardac.In summer months
the draft may be as low as 1.0m on the entire river.

Note the lock size, reduced from those on the canal:

32.00m X 5.20m from Buzet to Lavardac,
then 30.80m X 4.15m above Lavardac.

The river is subject to rapid rises in water level, usually with

adequate prior warning to boaters.
 Can
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Page 9
Self-Skippered Cruises
Opportunities for self-skippered cruising aboard a rented canal boat are widespread in
southwestern France. Shown on the map below are 31 towns and cities with bases for rental
boats; some of them include the bases of several operators. Cruising possibilities shown are
suggestions from the rental companies. Contact information is listed on the following page.

Rental boats are prohibited from cruising

the tidal Dordogne and Garonne rivers.
Limit of navigation
Douelle
Mas d'Agenais Castelmoron
Damazan Cahors Bouzies
Buzet St Sylvestre-
sur-Lot
Agen

Beaucaire
Montech Bellegarde
Condom St-Gilles
Lattes
TOULOUSE Aigues-
Carnon Mortes
Negra Beziers
Homps Le Somail
Le Segala Agde
Argens Port
Castelnaudary
Bram Trebes Cassafieres
Colombiers
Carcassonne Narbonne

Cruising Possibilities (1 week)

Towns (west to east) Companies (see next page) Round trip turnaround point One-way destination
Mas d'Agenais Crown Blue Line Moissac, Nerac or St Sylvestre Condom
Damazan France Passion Plaisance Moissac or Valence-sur-Baise Not available
Buzet Aquitaine Navigation, Nicols Valence-sur-Baise or Montech Condom
Castelmoron Connoisseur Nerac or Agen Not available
Condom Aquitaine Navigation, CBL Buzet Mas d'Agenais
St Sylvestre-sur-Lot Locaboat Plaisance Buzet Agen
Agen Locaboat Plaisance Valence-sur-Baise St Sylvestre-sur-Lot
Douelle Crown Blue Line Luzech & Cregols Not available
Cahors Babou Marine Luzech & Cregols Not available
Bouzies Nicols Luzech & Cregols Not available
Montech Nicols Buzet or Le Segala Bram
Toulouse France Passion Plaisance Carcassonne Homps
Negra Locaboat Plaisance Castelnaudary Argens
Le Segala Rive de France Le Somail Colombiers
Castelnaudary Crown Blue Line Toulouse or Argens or Narbonne Port Cassafieres
Bram Nicols Homps or Toulouse Le Somail
Carcassonne Rive de France, FPP Homps or Toulouse Agde
Trebes Connoisseur Castelnaudary Homps
Argens Locaboat Plaisance Carcassonne or Narbonne Lattes or Negra
Homps Connoisseur, Rive de France, FPP Port Nouvelle (10 nights) Beaucaire
Le Somail Nicols, Minervois Cruisers Bram or Port Nouvelle Bram or Marseillan
Narbonne Connoisseur Carcassonne Trebes
Colombiers Rive de France Carcassonne Le Segala
Port Cassafieres Crown Blue Line Aigues-Mortes or Argens Castelnaudary or St Gilles
Agde Rive de France, FPP Homps Not available
Carnon France Passion Plaisance Capestang Homps
Lattes Locaboat Plaisance Beaucaire or Agde Argens
St Gilles Crown Blue Line Etang de Thau Port Cassafieres
Bellegarde Nicols Etang de Thau Le Somail
Beaucaire Connoisseur Etang de Thau Homps
Aigues-Mortes Rive de France, FPP Beaucaire or Agde Homps
 Can
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Page 10
Day Cruises on the Garonne canal & Baïse

While I was researching the variety of self-skippered boats

available in southwestern France, I came across something
that immediately caught my attention: the "gabares" offered
by Aquitaine Navigation from their base at Buzet.

My first canal trips were in an open 17 ft (5 meter) wooden

boat, traveling hundreds of miles and camping in a tent at
locks or town parks, or sometimes an overnight at a hotel.
It is not as convenient as cruising aboard a fully-equipped
vessel, but it is a great way to get close to the surroundings
and enjoy the sounds, smells and feel of nature. It is not as
pleasant during a heavy rain, but with proper foul-weather
gear it can be reasonably comfortable. And it can provide a
feeling of smug satisfaction, as I had when a New York City police patrol boat hailed me in New York harbor
as we circled the Statue of Liberty and a crewmember said to me "You came down from Syracuse in THAT?"
...Tom Sommers

"Gabares" are 5 meter boats powered by a 6 horsepower outboard motor (mounted inside a sound-deadening
enclosure, as can be seen in the photo.) Three models are available, with places for 2/4, 5/7 or 8/12 persons.
(Personally, I would leave the extra persons behind.) A roof covers the seating area, with a "grand plage" at the
bow for sunbathing.

Rental periods can be 1 hour, 2 hours, one-half day or full day (10:00 to 18:00). A rental of more than one day
is possible, opening up the possibility of a cruise along all or a major part of the river Baïse. For instance, the
travel time from the base at Buzet to Nerac is about 4.5 hours. Departing at 10:00 and enjoying sights along the
way, you would arrive at Nerac in mid-afternoon. After touring the town and enjoying the delicious food and
wine of the area, the night could be spent at a hotel or chambres d'hotes, then return to base the next day.

These boats offer a means for traveling the river to those who have come to the region without a boat, such as
visitors whose primary purpose is to visit the vineyards, or for those aboard a barge or other large vessel with
too much beam or draft to navigate the Baïse; moor at Buzet and go sightseeing aboard one of the gabares.

For full information on rates and reservations, go to www.aquitaine-navigation.com/bateau/gabare.asp?num=9

or contact:
AQUITAINE NAVIGATION
Port de Buzet-Val d’Albret
F- 47160 BUZET SUR BAÏSE (France)
Tél : (33) 05 53 84 72 50
Fax : (33) 05 53 84 03 33
Email : aquinav@aquitaine-navigation.com
 Can
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Page 11
Self-Skippered Cruising - Contact Information

Aquitaine Navigation Locaboat Plaisance

Port de Buzet, 47610 Buzet-sur-Baïse BP 150, 89303 Joigny
Tel:+33 (0)4 53 84 72 50 Fax:+33 (0)5 53 84 Tel:+33 (0)3 86 91 72 72 Fax:+33 (0)3 86 62
03 33 42 41
www.aquitaine-navigation.com www.locaboat.com
E-mail: aquinav@aquitaine-navigation.com E-mail: info@locaboat.com

Babou Marine Minervois Cruisers

Port de St Mary, 46000 Cahors
Tel:+33 (0)5 65 30 08 99 Fax:+33 (0)3 65 23
92 59
www.baboulene-jean.fr
E-mail: babou.marine@wanadoo.fr
Connoisseur
Le Grand Bassin, BP 1201, 11492
Castelnaudary
Tel:+33 (0)4 68 94 09 75 Fax:+33 (0)4 68 94
52 73
www.connoisseurafloat.com
E-mail: info@connoisseur.fr
base at Le Somail, reservations at UK office
Tel: +44 (0) 1926 811842
www.minervoiscruisers.com
E-mail: enquiries@minervoiscruisers.com
This website has an excellent series of route
suggestions
Nicols
Route du Puy St Bonnet, 49300 Cholet
Tel:+33 (0)2 41 56 46 56 Fax:+33 (0)2 41 56
46 47
www.nicols.com
E-mail: nicols@nicols.com

Crown Blue Line Rive de France

Le Grand Bassin, BP 1201, 11492 55, rue d'Aguesseau
Castelnaudary 92774 Boulogne-Billancourt Cedex
Tel:+33 (0)4 68 94 52 72 Fax:+33 (0)4 68 94 Tel:+33 (0)1 41 86 01 01 Fax:+33 (0)1 41 86
52 73 01 02
www.crownblueline.com www.rive-de-france.tm.fr
E-mail: info@crownblueline.com E-mail : rdf@i2m.fr

France Passion Plaisance

La Maison du Bateau, Port de Plaisance, 71160
Digoin
Tel:+33 (0)3 85 53 76 70 Fax:+33 (0)3 85 53
76 71
www.france-passion-plaisance.fr
E-mail: fpp@france-passion-plaisance.fr
 Can
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Page 12
Regions & Appellations A.O.C.

Bordeaux Sud-Ouest
1 Médoc 12 Barsac 21 Côtes de Bourg 30 Montravel 41 Vins de Lavilledieu
2 St-Estèphe 13 Sauternes 22 Côtes de Blaye 31 Rosette 42 Côtes du Frontonnais
3 Pauillac 14 Bordeaux 23 Fronsac & 32 Pécharmant 43 Gaillac
4 St-Julien 15 Côtes de Bordeaux Canon Fronsac 33 Bergerac
5 Moulis St-Macaire 24 Pomerol & 34 Monbazillac
6 Listrac 16 Ste-Croix du Mont Lalande de Pomerol 35 Saussignac
7 Margaux 17 Loupiac 25 St-Émilion 36 Côtes de Duras
8 Haut-Médoc 18 Premières 26 Côtes de Castillon 37 Côtes du Marmandais
9 Pessac-Léognan Côtes de Bordeaux 27 Côtes de Francs 38 Buzet
10 Graves 19 Graves de Vayres 28 Entre-Deux-Mers 39 Côtes du Brulhois
11 Cérons 20 Bordeaux 29 Ste-Foy Bordeaux 40 Cahors

Saô
n e
Royan LYON

Massif
cean

1
2 22 ze
rrè
3
e Co Central
Atlantic O

4 zèr
5 20 Isle Vé
6 7 2 24
23
8 19 31 32 33 Lac de Lanau
25 Lac de Sarrans
BORDE
EAUX 18
28 29
29 35
35 Dordogne
9 17 3
36
16
10 11 15 37
12 Villeneuve- Luzech Lot
13 sur-Lot
14 40 Cregols
Cah
Cahors
Buzeet
38
38 A
Aveyron
Agen
ge
399
41
Armagnac Nerac
eau-de-vie Montauban
auban Tarn Le
42 z Beaucaire
43 Albi
rs

Condom
Ge

Montpellier
p
ult

TOULOUSE
ra

ne rb
Hé

o O
im
G 500
ve 49 ète
51
Sa Béziers
zier
se
Baï

46
44 Agde Noilly-Prat
Ar
ièg

45 48
nne Carcassonne
rcassonne
n Vermouth
aro
e

Narbonne
G
47
de
Au
Mediterranean
Sea
Pyrenees
y
Note: The boundaries of the regions and the locations of the Languedoc
various A.O.C. shown on this map are not intended to be ès 48 Corbières
specific nor all-inclusive (only those near waterways are shown.) 45 Cô ère 49 St-Chinian
This is a general guide that should be followed-up with a 46 Minervois 50 Faugères
specialized wine map or guidebook. A great deal of vineyard 47 Limoux 51 Coteaux du Languedoc
information is available at the local Offices de Tourisme.
 Waterways of Brittany

Rance river at Dinan

 uroCana EuroCanals Guide: Waterways of Brittany

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Page 2

The inland waterways of Brittany include 542 kilometers of rivers & canals BR PARIS
ET
AG
not directly connected to the inland waterway network of France. They NE

must be entered from the sea, or by cruising on a boat that is already there.
Several sections of these waterways are among the finest in France.

Aulne/Hyère Canal d'Ille et Rance

Blavet Vilaine
Canal de Nantes à Brest Erdre

La Manche (English Channel)

Brest St Malo
Dinan
St Brieuc
Landevennec
Port-Launay Port-de-Carhaix
Chateaulin Lac de Guerledan Hédé
Chateauneuf-
du-Faou
Rohan
Pontivy Rennes
Josselin

Lorient
la Gacilly Messac
Malestroit

Atlantic Redon
Ocean
La Roche-
Bernard Nort-sur-Erdre

Sucé-sur-Erdre Quiheix

Nantes
re
Loi

Bay of Biscay

Copyright EuroCanals 2003

Waterways of Brittany By Tom Sommers Page 3

Degemer mat e Breizh! Bienvenue en Bretagne! Welcome to Brittany!

Whether it is in Breton, French or English, your welcome to the region of Brittany will be friendly and
real.1 There are two reasons to cruise in Brittany:
1. To pass through from the English Channel south to the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Biscay without
making the arduous and somewhat dangerous trip around the points of the peninsula.
2. To make cruises within Brittany, discovering the interesting culture and the peaceful, beautiful natural
areas. For many, this will be aboard a rental boat, but Brittany offers access to the sea at several points, an
unusual opportunity when cruising the inland waterways, and can be accessed by coastal cruisers.

The waterways of Brittany are isolated from the French canal and river network, and the primary canal
across the length of the peninsula is even isolated from itself; a dam near Pontivy separates the two
sections of the Canal de Nantes à Brest. These waterways are not controlled by the VNF2 so the national
usage fees do not apply, although in some places the service charges at ports can be a nuisance.

There is no commercial traffic and only a relatively small number of rental boats, so even in high season it
is unusual to wait to pass through locks. Brittany offers a gentle climate and quiet natural countryside, as
well as a gastronomy that is somewhat different from “inland” France, based on crêpes, galettes and
seafood. *Crêperies are ubiquitous in Brittany and offer the best dining value; a galette (buckwheat
pancake) with various combinations of sausages, ham, mushrooms or cheeses, followed by a crêpe
(dessert pancake) with a sweet topping, along with a pitcher of Breton cider, will cost about 10 Euros per
person.* The locks and canal improvements are intended for leisure boating, so they blend rather than
intrude on the surroundings. Lockkeepers are usually friendly and welcoming, and many of them maintain
beautiful flower and vegetable gardens at the locks. Most of the villages and towns are charming, with
simple but beautiful stone houses in the traditional Breton style. Even the smallest cottages have granite
door and window surrounds in walls that are nearly a meter thick, and inside there will usually be a
fireplace two meters wide, often extending from the floor almost to the ceiling.

The river sections of the waterways of Brittany have been used by vessels since the 15th century; some of
the first pound locks in Europe were installed on the river Vilaine in the 16th century. Linking of these
rivers by man-made canals was considered for many years and planning began as early as 1736. Little
progress was made and the revolution delayed actual construction, which began under Napoleon but the
canals did not come into service until the late 1830s. They never enjoyed a great deal of commercial
success and barge traffic dwindled in the face of railroad and highway competition; by the 1960s, the
waterways were largely abandoned and might have disappeared, except for the intervention of regional
committees who promoted leisure use of the canals and worked for the improvement of facilities suitable
for pleasure craft.

1
The English-language term “Brittany” will be used throughout this report.
2
Voies Navigable de France, the national authority for the inland waterways.
Getting your vessel to Brittany: Page 4

It’s not easy, because there is no inland connection to the primary network of French waterways, and
although the northern coast is on the English Channel, it is at the wide end of the channel, a far different
crossing from Great Britain than at Calais. Of course, plenty of vessels do it, just as there are plenty of
vessels now circumnavigating the globe. But not many are flat-bottomed barges; sailboats and
motorcruisers suitable for coastal travel are more common.

From the north, the closest inland waterway is the Seine at Le Havre; Calais and other Channel/North Sea
ports require at least another 200 kilometers of travel down the Channel. (From England, Southampton,
Poole and Plymouth are the closest major ports.) The peninsula of Normandy must be rounded at
Cherbourg, but then on the western side of Normandy are the Channel Islands, with excellent ports. The
arrival port in brittany is St. Malo, at the mouth of the river Rance.

From the south, the inland waterway connection is via the Canal des Deux Mers (Canal du Midi, Canal
latéral à la Garonne, river Garonne) from Bordeaux. Again there is at least 200 kilometers of open sea to
the first port on the waterways of Brittany (St. Nazaire), but there are other ports along the way for coast-
hopping.

As I was traveling by car to research part of this report, I noticed quite a few motorcruisers and sailboats
being transported along the highway, so that is an obvious method but relatively expensive.

Limiting Dimensions:

Before you do make plans to bring a vessel to Brittany, be sure to check the minimum draft, height and
lock dimensions of the potential route (details are shown on the canal maps in this report.) For a trip
cutting across the Breton peninsula on the Rance/Ille/Vilaine route, the limiting dimensions for the vessel
are 25 meters length, 4.50 m beam, 1.20 m draft and 2.50 m height.

The water level on many of these waterways can vary substantially, due to either flooding or drought, so it
is important to check ahead for the conditions. For instance, on the Vilaine the clearance above water
(Height) is 3.20 m at normal conditions but is 2.60 m at times of maximum navigable high water. The
canals of Brittany are subject to closure in some sections due to flooding and high currents, or the other
extreme, lack of water to supply the locks and maintain the required depth.

Suggested Self-Skippered Cruises (one week roundtrip, based on 30 hours travel time):
Redon to Josselin (including La Gacilly) 160 km, 34 locks (recommended trip)
Redon to Rennes 180 km, 24 locks; Redon to Nantes 180 km, 34 locks
Messac or Redon to Malestroit, La Gacilly, La Roche-Bernard & Messac 232 km, 16 locks
Messac to Rennes & La Roche-Bernard 246 km, 24 locks
Dinan (Port Lyvet) to Montreuil-sur-Ille 104 km, 60 locks
Check with rental base operators for many more options and their suggestions, including one-way trips.
 uroCana EuroCanals Guide: Canal de Nantes à Brest/Blavet/Erdre

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Page 5
Descriptions of these waterways are shown on the next page

PARIS
Canal de Nantes à Brest
Blavet
Vilaine
Erdre lac de Guerlédan
Loire summit

Blavet Pontivy Rohan

St-Nicolas- Josselin
des-Eaux Ploërmel
Oust
St-Adrien Montertelot
Lochrist Malestroit
St-Congard Le Guelin
Hennebont La Gacilly
Lorient
Painfaut Vilaine
Redon

Guenrouet
Blain Nort-sur-
Erdre
Quiheix (Lock#2)
Erdre
Sucé-sur-Erdre

ATLANTIC OCEAN Nantes

Loire

Elevation, meters
150

120

90
Lorient Pontivy
St Nicolas Rohan
60 St Adrien Josselin
Hennebont Malestroit
30 Painfaut Blain Quiheix Nantes
Redon Guenrouet Sucé
0
PK 67 59 31 18 0/206 194 182 158 132 105 95 73 50 22 15 1
Lock# 28 16 9 1/107 78 52 36 25 19 18 11 2 1
PK marker zero for the Blavet is at Pontivy; PK markers and lock numbers count southward to Lorient.
PK marker zero for Canal de Nantes à Brest is at Nantes; PK markers and lock numbers count westward to Pontivy.

Copyright EuroCanals 2003

 uroCana EuroCanals Guide: Canal de Nantes à Brest/Blavet/Erdre

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Page 6

Canal de Nantes à Brest

Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended;
the section from Redon to Rohan is a must-do cruise.
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, no commercial traffic, slow currents.
Overall: 184.2 km, 106 locks 25X4.3 m
Quiheix to Redon: 73 km, 18 locks 25X4.3 m, Draft 1.10 m, Height 2.40 m, Speed 8 km/hr
Contact: Service Navigation, 2 rue Marcel Sembat, 44100 Nantes Tel: 02 40 71 02 00
Redon to Rohan: 87 km, 34 locks 25X4.3 m, Draft 1.30 m, Height 2.40 m, Speed 8 km/hr
Rohan to Pontivy: 24 km, 54 locks 25X4.3 m, Draft 0.80 m, Height 2.40 m, Speed 8 km/hr
Contact: Service Navigation, 116 route de Vannes, 35601 Redon Cedex Tel: +33(0)2 99 71 03 78

Blavet
Tour Rating: Pleasant, some picturesque sections.
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, no commercial traffic, slow currents.
Overall: 70 km, 28 locks 26X4.6 m, Draft 1.40 m, Height 2.60 m, Speed 6 km/hr
Pontivy to Hennebont: 59.8 km, 28 locks 26X4.6 m, Draft 1.20 m, Height 2.60 m, Speed 6 km/hr
Hennebont to Lorient: 10.2 km, tidal (obtain local information)
Contact: Service Navigation, 1 rue Henri Dunant, 56306 Pontivy Tel: +33(0)2 97 25 55 21

Erdre
Tour Rating: Pleasant, some picturesque sections.
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, no commercial traffic, slow currents.
Overall, Loire to Nort-sur-Erdre: 28 km, 1 lock 40X6.2 m, Draft 1.45 m, Height 3.80 m, Speed 10 km/hr
Nantes to Quiheix lock: 22 km, no locks, Draft 1.45 m, Height 2.40 m, Speed 10 km/hr
Contact: Service Navigation, 2 rue Marcel Sembat, 44100 Nantes Tel: +33(0)2 40 71 02 00

Loire Maritime
The Loire is not included in this report; information on the maritime section follows:
Nantes to St Nazaire (Atlantic Ocean): 52.5 km, tidal
Contact: Port Autonome de Nantes, 18 quai Ernest Renaud-BP 18609, 44186 Nantes Cedex4
Tel: +33(0)2 40 44 20 20
Affaires Maritimes, 9 bd de Verdun, St Nazaire Tel: +33(0)2 40 22 46 32

Charts:
Navicarte #12
Guide Vagnon #10
Guide Fluviaux EDB #1
Maps:
Michelin # 230
Season: Open March through October.
Lock schedules vary, check with boat rental operator or contact:above offices.
Canal de Nantes à Brest – Blavet – Erdre Page 7

Napoleon decided in about 1804-1806 that this route would be necessary to avoid the blockade of the sea
routes by the English; he wanted to have an inland route to connect Nantes (on the river Loire) with the
seaports of Lorient and Brest. The English threat was gone well before construction began, but the plan
was continued as a commercial venture and eventually opened in the mid-19th century. At 365 kilometers
original length and 238 locks, it was the longest canal in France.

It begins in Nantes, where the river Erdre empties into the Loire.3 The first 22 km are to the north in the
lakes of the Erdre, heavily used in season by sailboats, motorboats, windsurfers and tourist cruises. At the
Quiheix lock the man-made canal begins, heading west over a low summit to join with the river Isac and
then the Vilaine into the city of Redon. The intersection at Redon is an important crossroads, allowing
travel north to Rennes, Dinan, St Malo and the English Channel, or south to the Atlantic. The Nantes-
Brest route leaves Redon alongside the river Oust and mostly follows the natural bed of the river, with
occasional straightened canal sections. At the headwaters of the Oust above Rohan, the canal climbs as
steep a staircase of locks as can be found anywhere in Europe then descends steeply again to the city of
Pontivy and a junction with the canalized Blavet river.

The current canal route ends at Pontivy, after traversing 206 kilometers and 106 locks from Nantes. But
prior to 1923, this was only about half of the way to Brest. The original canal followed the Blavet
upstream, due north into the center of the Breton peninsula, then a canal was dug in a westerly direction
that eventually joined the rivers Hyère and Aulne to reach the sea near Brest. The construction of the
Guerlédan hydroelectric dam interrupted the canal, and although a large lock or boatlift was promised by
the dam(n) builders, nothing has happened in the 73 years since the dam officially opened. Thus there is a
gap of 80 kilometers that has been cut from the canal. This portion remains marked on Michelin and other
maps as “Canal de Nantes à Brest” but it is not navigable, although well-used by canoeists, hikers and
bicyclists.

The western end of the canal is usually navigable from the junction of the old canal with the Hyère at
Port-de-Carhaix, although in the 2002 season this portion was not available due to work on the canal
infrastructure. Following in the natural bed of first the Hyère and then the Aulne, the route passes the
current limit of navigation at Penn-ar-Pont and stays in the riverbed until reaching the tidal waters and
access to the sea or the port of Brest.

Loire Maritime, Nantes and Erdre:

Nantes is one of the largest cities in Brittany, with over a half-million inhabitants, and in the 18th century
was the primary port in France. It is located sixty kilometers from the ocean on the maritime section of the
river Loire. The river Erdre flows into the Loire directly through the center of Nantes, separated from the
tidal Loire by the Saint-Félix lock; shortly above the lock, an 800-meter tunnel passes under the plazas of
3
Because the administrative borders have been changed, this portion of the canal is no longer in Bretagne; Nantes is now the
capital of the Pays de la Loire region. The eastern border of Bretagne is now at Redon.
 Page 8
the Château des ducs de Bretagne and the Cathedrale St-Pierre. The pleasure-boat port is located just
north of the tunnel exit. From there it is a short walk or tram ride to the narrow streets of the medieval
quarter and the interesting historical sites of both the 18th and the 19th-century quarters.

The Erdre, officially acclaimed as one of the most beautiful rivers in France, is navigable for 27.5 km to
Nort-sur-Erdre, not a long distance but the feature that makes the river interesting is its extraordinary
width. This is thanks the the bishop St Félix, who ordered a dam to be constructed in the 6th century,
flooding the marshes in the interest of public health. This has formed a succession of basins and
waterways and a lake, lac de Mazerolles, favored by participants in all sorts of watersports activities.
Charming small villages along the river, especially la Chapelle-sur-Erdre, Sucé-sur-Erdre and Nort-sur-
Erdre, are part of the greenbelt that stretches north along the river from Nantes. Numerous châteaux and
manor houses can be seen along both banks of the river from Nantes to just north of Sucé.

Quiheix to Redon:

This portion of the canal passes quietly and easily through pleasant countryside. There are several
mooring places along the 73 km route and ports at the towns of Blain and Guenrouët, each with
restaurants and shops, suitable for an overnight stop. But in truth there is not much in the way of
interesting sites. (Don’t tell the Tourist Office that I said this; they will point out the swimming pool with
waterslide and the mini-golf at Guenrouët!) The summit pound of the canal at Bout-de-Bois is fed with
water from a lake 22 km away by means of four aqueducts, each with eight to ten stone arches, and a 600
meter tunnel. This may be an interesting excursion by bicycle, although I have not investigated it. Another
potential visit is the canal museum in Fégréac.

Seven kilometers south of Redon, the original canal paralled the river Vilaine and then crossed that river
by means of locks on each side to enter Redon from the east. That section is now closed and replaced by
navigation in the Vilaine itself for a similar distance. Approaching the city from the south, a fork in the
river separates the route north to Rennes from the large pleasure-boat port on the western arm of the fork.
There are restaurants near the port, although it is not far to the centre ville (and the rail station), dominated
by the handsome roman/gothic Saint-Saveur abbey. The eastside quay of the port is lined with 19th-
century houses and it is also the location of the Western Inland Water Transport Museum, with interesting
presentations of the life of bargemen.

Redon to Rohan:

This section of the canal is highly recommended by experienced cruisers as the most enjoyable trip in
Brittany, if not in all of France. It passes through the heart of the Breton countryside and includes various
types of natural areas, quaint villages and historic towns, and even a majestic castle right on the
waterfront at Josselin.
 Page 9
Although the canal leaves Redon in an artificial waterway, after only seven kilometers it joins the natural
bed of the Oust in the finest part of that river. The river is several hundred meters wide, with pine-covered
slopes and cliffs on both sides. You should begin to see herons standing at the banks and magpies flying
in the trees, and will very quickly forget that you had only recently left a city. At the northern end of the
broad waters, try to stop at Ile aux Pies (Island of Magpies), a simple but wonderful natural site. Here the
canal turns west in an artificial channel and follows alongside the Oust, but straight ahead lies the
delightful stream named the Aff, a not-to-be-missed excursion off the canal route.

Follow the marked channel into a deserted marsh; here you might consider renaming your boat the
African Queen, for that is the feeling you will get from the quiet green surroundings, with only the
fishermen’s piers to show that other people come here occasionally. The channel turns sharply right into a
twisting 9-km stretch toward the village of La Gacilly, but first you may want to continue straight ahead
to a dead-end with a mooring pontoon for a visit to the tiny village of Glénac.

La Gacilly certainly fits the description “quaint” and, although it is a tourist-oriented destination,
shouldn’t be missed (you can feel smug about arriving by boat rather than tour bus.) It is a village of craft
shops (glass, pottery, leather, stone & metalworking) with a basket-making museum, and is also the home
of Yves Rocher beauty products; the laboratory and production facilities include a museum for visitors.
The town has been classified as an eco-district and features a botanical garden named Végétarium.

Returning to the main route, you must use the artificial canal rather than the river for six kilometers but
then the waterway lies in the meandering Oust, another beautiful section, until the next must-do stop at
Malestroit. But if there is no need to hurry, stops first at Le Guelin and St-Congard can provide
restaurants and shops in typical waterside villages. In an example of the French style in naming places,
the settlement across the bridge from St-Congard is called le Bout-de-Pont, the “end of the bridge”.

Malestroit calls itself Perle de l’Oust and has been designated as one of the Petite Cité de Caractère,
official “small cities of character” scattered throughout Brittany. It is located in the middle of green
pastures and nearby forests. Half-timbered houses with upper stories that overhang the street are a part of
the mix of Gothic and Renaissance architecture; some of the houses are decorated with sculptures of
animals in wood or granite, in designs evoking the fables of the Middle Ages. On Thursday mornings
there is a market of natural products grown and produced in the area. It is a lively town, with frequent
festivals, cultural activities, guided tours and recreational options (hiking, canoeing, kayaking, bicycling.)
A very complete museum of the Breton resistance in World War II and a Water & Fishing museum are
both well-done facilities. This town is worth a prolonged visit.
 Page 10
Arrival at the next town, Le Roc-St-André, is announced by the magnificent eleven-arch stone bridge,
built in 1760. If you left Malestroit early in the morning, this village has a boulanger near the pontoon
mooring for the day’s bread.4 A short distance beyond are the twin towers of Château Crevy. The next
town, Montertelot, doesn’t have much to offer, especially since it is located between the rail line and the
autoroute, but it can be used as a mooring for some pleasant bicycling along the small roads in the valley
ahead, or for a trip into the historical (and full services) city of Ploërmel, 7 km north.

Various tourist guides have referred to this area as the land of Merlin, and after some research I found that
they mean the Forêt de Paimpont northeast of Ploërmel, which in ancient times was the forest of
Brocéliande and the legendary place where Merlin the Wizard was beguiled by Lady Vyvyan. A visit to
the forest is well within the range of accomplished cyclists, and hikers can arrange for a taxi. There are
numerous panoramic viewpoints throughout the forest; I didn’t try it, but I would like to go back for a
visit to the Val sans retour to see if this is in fact a Valley of No Return!

Josselin is another Petite Cité de Caractère and rightly so. On arrival in the Josselin lock, with a very
beautiful lockkeeper’s house, the view ahead will be dominated by the Château de Josselin, a medieval
fortress with three of its nine towers rising almost from the waters of the river. It was built by the Rohan
family in the 14th century and has suffered through several demolition and rebuilding cycles, such that the
medieval exterior now encloses a granite interior in the Ren-aissance style. The château is still owned by
the same family and is open to the public. The steep narrow streets of the old city are lined with stone and
half-timbered houses, and lead to the basilica of Notre Dame, which draws thousands of pilgrims for the
annual Pardon on September 8. As expected in a tourist town, restaurants and services for visitors are
plentiful. The street market is on Saturday mornings.

For some travelers, those on a fixed round-trip schedule, Josselin is the turnaround point; now the locks
begin to come more frequently as the waterway follows the river back toward its source in the hills. But if
you have the time, continue another 24 km and 16 locks to Rohan. This is another beautiful section of the
river and there are still sights to be seen, such as the Cistercian abbey at Timadeuc. Rohan takes its name
from one of the most famous families in France. The family name itself comes from the castle that was
built here in 1479 by Alain de Rohan on the Roc’Han (“little rock” in the Breton language.) The family’s
castle in Josselin was mentioned above and yet another Château de Rohan is located ahead at the end of
the canal in Pontivy.5

4
A reminder about the schedules of such shops: almost all will close for a lunch break of several hours, sometime between
12:00 to 16:00, and will usually close all day on one weekday. In towns with more than one bakery, butcher or pharmacy, they
will coordinate their closed-day schedule so that a source remains available. It is best to shop in the morning, some shops may
not reopen in the afternoon.
5
The current president of the Bretagne region is M. Josselin de Rohan. Another Château des Rohans in Saverne is mentioned
in the EuroCanals Report Alsace & Lorraine-Est.
 Page 11
Okay, the fun is now over (at least for the next 24 km) for all except those crews that enjoy repetitive
locking. Beyond Rohan, the first stretch of four locks in five kilometers would seem like frequent locking,
except for what lies ahead around the 90-degree left turn: 21 locks in 4.5 km lead up to the summit pound.
Refer to the Elevation graph on Page 6; this is the steepest climb and descent of any waterway yet
researched by EuroCanals, and probably the steepest in Europe. The river Oust has now become just a
stream and its source is away to the northeast of the path to Pontivy, so the canal builders set off cross-
country and straight uphill. Except for the final three locks approaching the summit, each lock has a small
side-pound associated with it to store the water needed for locking.

The Hilvern bief de partage at the summit is a pleasant and isolated 5 km rest area, but with no towns or
services, just a major regional highway passing overhead. The descent into Pontivy comes in four stages:
first, another staircase of 9 locks in just over 1 km, followed by a 2 km pound, then ten locks in 1.5 km,
then an “easy” final section of ten locks in 5 km. Obviously, the boat should be provisioned at Rohan to
see the crew through to Pontivy. It is possible to do the entire section in one long and exhausting day with
adequate crew, especially if some of the crew proceed ahead to help prepare the next locks.

Pontivy is the end of the Canal de Nantes à Brest, which merges with the river Blavet at the northern end
of town. The nearby Château de Rohan attracted the attention of Napoléon, no doubt because of its
military style of architecture but also because of its strategic location here at the junction of his then-
proposed canal with the Blavet. He laid out a grid of new streets alongside the river and ordered the
construction of buildings as a military base. His interest in the town resulted in it being named
Napoléonville for two short periods, first during Napoléon’s reign and then again during the Second
Empire, reverting to Pontivy when there weren’t any “Napoléons” around.

Although the Blavet above Pontivy is closed to navigation, an excursion to the very beautiful Lac de
Guerlédan 20 km north may be of interest to bicyclists or those who may wish to rent a car.

Blavet:

Although in some guidebooks and official charts this waterway is identified as the “Canal du Blavet”, it is
in fact simply a navigable river. There have been improvements made along the banks in some areas and
locks have been installed, but there are no sections that depart from the natural bed of the river. This
makes cruising here all the more enjoyable, meandering between the wooded hillsides and pastures of the
unchanged Breton countryside. Nearly all of the locks are part of a weir, often with water tumbling over
the barricade in intriguing and beautiful patterns. A rail line follows the river valley, but traffic is very
light.

The inland section of the river consists of 28 locks in 58 km from Pontivy to the last lock, located
between Lochrist and Hennebont. From there the final 13 km to Lorient is tidal. Proceed on to Lorient
with great care, as the large tide will dry the riverbed to a surprising degree. Obtain local information on
the conditions.
Pontivy to Lochrist: Page 12

The first stop below Pontivy, and the most beautiful on this waterway, is at St. Nicolas-des-Eaux. Here
the river makes two almost-complete loops in a deep valley, each nearly cutting off the land to form an
island, but leaving just a few meters for the small roads. You can walk or bike to panoramic viewpoints
above the valley.

Another village of great charm that shouldn’t be missed is St Adrien. Along the entire valley there are
almost no mooring pontoons or quays provided, but that shouldn’t stop you from mooring near a lock or
tied to the bank for an overnight stay or a walk uphill to the tiny settlements of stone houses. You won’t
find much in the way of restaurants or shops, but you will have an opportunity to see old Brittany and its
rural lifestyle, although it is common for the houses to be tightly shuttered and appear deserted, even
during the day.

One of these excursions off the canal might be to the restored 1,000 year-old village of Melrand (4.5 km
west from Lock #13, Boterneau, on road D142.) Another restoration of a typical Breton village is Poul-
Fétan, dating from the 16th century (a short walk from the mooring pontoon on the west bank at PK 41,
one kilometer south of Lock #19, Ménazen.)

Lochrist to the sea:

Industry and modern life intrude at Lochrist, and soon you reach the end of the inland waterway.
The Blavet waterway has a history associated with iron and steel, which can be traced in the forges and
canal museums in Lochrist. The nearby city of Hennebont has considerably more historical and cultural
sights; built at the point where the river narrows from the estuary, it was a stronghold surrounded by
ramparts, which now offer a good view up the river valley.

Lorient was the base of the East Indies Company and thus became the “Gateway to the Indies”. It was
first named Lieu d’Orient, later shortened to Lorient. In WWII it was the site of a very large naval base
for submarines and was almost totally destroyed by bombing. The city was rebuilt in modern style and
has become an important fishing harbor and shipping port, with a pleasure-boat port as well.

Coastal-cruising travelers will find an trip up the Blavet to Pontivy to be an pleasant and restful change
from the rugged coast of Brittany.
 uroCana EuroCanals Guide:Canal d'Ille-et-Rance/Vilaine

ls
Page 13

Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended

Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, no commercial traffic, slow currents; PARIS
except in tidal sections, where careful planning and caution
is required; experience in extremely large tides is helpful.

Rance Maritime
la Manche
St Malo to Le Chatelier
(English Channel)
22.6 km
1 lock 65X13 m St Malo
Draft varies; Tidal Le Chatelier St Suliac
Height 19 m Lock #48
La Vicomté-sur-Rance
Speed 10 km/hr St Samson Lyvet
Dinan Rance
Canal d'Ille et Rance
Evran
Le Chatelier to Rennes Tinténiac Montreuil Charts:
84.8 km Hédé St Germain Navicarte #12
48 locks 26.5X4.5 m Chevaigné
l'Ille Guide Vagnon #10
Draft 1.20 m Betton
Guide Fluviaux EDB #1
Height 2.50 m St Grégoire Maps:
Speed 6 km/hr Rennes Michelin # 230
Vilaine Season:
Pont Réan
Rennes to Arzal Open March through
131.0 km Vilaine October.
12 locks 25.87X4.5 m Guipry
Lock schedules vary,
Draft 1.20 m Messac check with boat rental
At times of maximum St Just
Height 3.20 m (2.60 m) high navigable water level Langon operator or contact:
Speed 10 km/hr Painfaut Service Navigation
Beslé
1, avenue du Mail
Vilaine Maritime Redon 35000 RENNES
Arzal to Atlantic Ocean Foleux Tel:+33(0)2 99 59 20 60
13 km Barrage d'Arzal Canal de Nantes à Brest
La Roche-Bernard
1 lock 85X13 m
Atlantic Arzal-Camoël
Draft varies; Tidal
Height 25 m Ocean
Speed 10 km/hr
Elevation, meters
70
60 Montreuil
50 Hédé
40 Chevaigne
30 Rennes
20 Pont Rean Evran
10 Arzal-Camoël Redon Messac Dinan
0
PK131 Kilometers 89 52 48 34 27 18 11 0 8 18 36 42 52 66 78 85
Lock Number 13 12 10 8 6 4 2 -1 4 8 20 21 36 42 47 48
PK marker zero is at Rennes; Canal d'Ille et Rance is labeled north to PK 86 at Le Chatelier lock, Vilaine is labeled south to PK 130
at barrage d'Arzal. Lock numbers follow the same sytem (there is no Lock #1 on the Vilaine at Rennes; first lock is #2.)

Copyright EuroCanals 2003

Canal d’Ille-et-Rance – Rance – Vilaine Page 14

In French, these rivers and the connecting canal are la liaison fluviale Manche-Océan, the through-route
between the English Channel and the Atlantic Ocean. It is commonly used by sailboats and motorcruisers
from Great Britain and the Channel Islands to cut across the peninsula of Brittany on their way south to
seacoast ports in France and Spain, or to the Mediterranean Sea on the Midi path.

It wasn’t created all at once. In the north, traffic from St. Malo could reach Dinan, thirty kilometers up the
Rance estuary, only when tides were favorable. In the south, improvements on the Vilaine that would
allow inland waterway transport began in the 16th century, with the construction of ten locks between
Messac and Rennes. “Modern” work on this section was begun in 1784 and completed by the time of the
revolution. The final section, a canal between Dinan and Rennes to link the Rance with the Vilaine, was
not opened until the late 1830’s.

For trip-planning purposes, there are five parts to this 252 km route: 23 km & 1 lock in the Rance estuary,
85 km & 48 locks in the canal to Rennes, 89 km & 12 locks in the Vilaine to the canal intersection at
Redon, then 42 km in the maritime Vilaine with no locks to the dam at Arzal, finally a lock at the dam
then 13 km to the ocean.

Rance Estuary; St Malo to Dinan:

Saint-Malo advertises itself as the home of Les plus grandes marées d’Europe, “The biggest tides in
Europe”. The tidal range can be as much as 12 meters (39.6 feet) in less than seven hours. The old city is
completely surrounded by imposing ramparts; it was originally a fortress city-state independent of
Brittany. In 1944 it was 80% destroyed by Allied bombing; faithfully rebuilt after the war, the narrow
streets and the original architectural style of massive stone buildings, all nearly identical in appearance,
were retained. Surrounded by the sea and five harbor basins, it appears as an island, although it is actually
the point on the eastern mouth of the Rance. It is a major sailing center and starting point for open-ocean
racing; two pleasure-boat harbors accomodate 1,500 yachts (120 spaces are reserved for visitors.)
Unfortunately, it is also a major destination for tourist buses, so the streets may be engulfed with visitors
at times. And for my taste the reconstructed buildings need a few hundred more years to “weather” before
they will look like an ancient city again.

A hydroelectric dam 3 km above St. Malo includes a lock for access to the Rance estuary. Because of the
large tides and the possibility of rapid changes in water level caused by the operations of the dam, it is
essential to obtain local information from the harbormaster before departing St. Malo. It is almost
mandatory to plan on traveling past the Le Chatélier lock (#48) in order to get past the tidal area in one
tide period; as the Navicarte Guide notes “The only possible stopping point without grounding is at
Mordreuc; only the southern side of the jetty can be used (draft 1.50 m.)” But Mordreuc is only 3 km
from the lock, with little to recommend a stop there. Occasional extremely high tides may pass beyond Le
Chatélier and even affect the water level to well beyond Dinan at Pont Perrin, Lock #46.
But when you do pass the tidal lock, everything changes; you are now in the inland waterway, in a
peaceful basin of two ports (St. Samson and Lyvet), surrounded by wooded hillsides and rocky cliffs. You
may find an available slip here, or proceed on another five kilometers to a port in a deep gorge below the
city of Dinan. There the long jetty on the western bank offers moorings at a must-do stop. Charming old
buildings with restaurants, services and even a modern Best Western hotel line both sides of the canalised
river. A beautiful low stone bridge marks the intersection of the port with the narrow street leading up into
the city. Soaring above is a very impressive viaduct of seven tall, narrow and graceful stone arches,
crossing the gorge for the highway into Dinan. The bridge is 75 meters above the water, higher even than
the summit that the canal will later cross on its path southward.

Dinan is one of the best preserved medieval towns in France; half-timbered houses line the cobbled streets
of the old city, often with the second story extending over the sidewalk on wooden columns. Although
there are numerous historical and cultural sights, including Saint-Saveur Basilica and Dutchess Anne’s
Castle, this seems more like a city that people actually live and work in, rather than a tourist center like St.
Malo. A stroll to the English Gardens and the ramparts at the top of the gorge will provide an excellent
view of the port far below and the Rance valley back to the estuary. This is a highly recommended visit.

Dinan to Rennes:

When you leave the port to travel upstream, as you pass under the viaduct the river enters a narrow and
winding ravine with steep cliffs, then soon the path is through dense woodlands and past small villages.
The small town of Evran marks the departure of the waterway from the Rance, which has its source to the
west while the canal turns east and then south toward Rennes. Near the lock at Evran, a small sign on the
wall of a house notes that the canal was closed for eight months in 1921-22 because of a drought.

Tinténiac is a good town to consider for the next overnight. It has full services, a pleasant public quay and
an interesting museum of trades and their tools. There are several châteaux that can be reached by bicycle,
including Combourg, home of the Châteaubriand family, and Montmuran, dating from the 12th century.
Get full information and directions from the tourist office in Tinténiac.

The eleven locks of Hédé are next; they aren’t really the Echelle de Hédés (Hell’s Ladder) as they are
sometimes called. It is a pleasant tree-lined section and should go quickly and easily. After the first three
locks there are quays where you can stop for a visit to the town, 2 km west up a hill, or an overnight stay
(be sure to let the lockkeepers advised of your plans.) Eight more locks and you arrive at the 7 km summit
pound, where the canal curves next to the ponds which store water for the locks.

The descent to Rennes now follows the path of the river Ille, marked by a succession of “-sur-Ille”
villages: Montreuil, Saint-Médard, Saint-Germain. There are moorings at each, as well as the next villages
of Chevaigé and Betton.The riverbed twists about through the unremarkable but very pleasant
countryside, a 34 km stretch with 20 locks.
 Page 16
Arrival at Rennes is announced by the suburb of St. Gregoire and the industrial zone on the north of the
city. Through two more locks, a long underpass below the streets, then suddenly the inersection with the
Vilaine, right in the center of Brittany’s capital and largest city. The non-navigable upper Vilaine flows
into Rennes from the east, under a large plaza. Turn right on the Vilaine and there is a mooring quay;
space should be available, although a number of liveaboard barges are docked here. The interesting part of
the city is on the old streets to the northeast, with shops that range from basic up to luxury and elegant,
numerous restaurants and many historic and modern public buildings.

Rennes to Redon:

Heading out of the city to the south, the first lock is #2 rather than #1, I suppose because they didn’t want
it confused with Lock #1 on the Canal d’Ille-et-Rance just around the corner. The first few kilometers
pass through urban surroundings and then gravel works, but downstream the cruising is back into wooded
riverbanks and green fields, often spotted with dairy cattle. “Vilaine” translates as nasty, bad, unpleasant,
but the name was given to the river long ago and it has now been tamed by the locks and canalisation of
shallow or rocky stretches.

The town of Pont-Rean offers a port and a visit to the gardens at Hospice de la Massaye. The most
spectacular section of the Vilaine is the next S-curve, after passing under the graceful stone arches of the
rail bridge and approaching the lock and mill at Le Böel, Lock #7. Slate cliffs line the curve of the eastern
riverbank. At the end of the curve, in a picture-perfect setting, the river flows over a weir with a stone
millhouse at its center; the lock is at the western bank, connected to a long narrow island that is thick with
woods. There are hiking trails to the top of the cliff, a popular destination on weekends for visitors from
nearby Rennes. Most of the crowds will appear in mid-afternoon on Sundays, after church and the
traditional large dinner meal. If you want solitude, hike between 9:00 and 15:00.

Two kilometers further on there is a group of small rocky islands that must be avoided, but they are well
marked by buoys. Bouëxière is the next lock, again with a weir, mill and lock grouped together; the
millhouse is interesting, being unusually tall and with the upstream wall angled on each corner in the
manner of buttresses protecting the upstream side of bridge columns. After exiting this lock, watch
carefully for rocks under the Glanret bridge and follow the markings for the proper channel (close to the
west bank.) The river then makes a full-circle loop, interrupted by the Gailieu lock. A château is adjacent
to the lock, the first of several to be seen along the riverbanks toward Redon.

Attesting to the popularity of holiday cruising on the Vilaine is the Crown Blue Line rental-boat base at
Messac, established here many years ago. Moorings are available at the CBL base on the north of town, or
at the public quay in the sister town of Guipry. Yet another beautiful millhouse of unusual design is
located on the island between the two towns, between the weir and the lock. Both of these towns have full
services and some excellent restaurants.
 Page 17
Lock #13, the last lock before the tidal section of the river is at Mâlon, with 92 km yet to travel to the
ocean. The lock is 3 km below Guipry, which was the upper limit of navigation before locks were
installed on the river. Obviously this means that the land is quite flat, but that doesn’t mean that the
waterway is not enjoyable. Just ahead is les Corbinières, a section with forests on both sides of the
winding river, Bois de Boeuvre on the east and Bois de Baron on the west. Wildlife is abundant in these
woodlands, a small area but as close to wilderness as can still be found in Brittany. A rail bridge crosses
high above the river on a row of tall stone arches. Rail traffic is light and the old bridge enhances rather
than intrudes on the scene.

Port-de-Roche is the place to spend a full day if you are interested in the ancient stone megaliths scattered
by the thousands across Brittany6. There is an opportunity here to view two sites of menhirs that were
erected 4,500 years BC (the French term for BC is avant J.C.) A striking small alignment consisting of
two lines of stone can be visited at Moulin-de-Cajoux near the village of St. Just, 10 km west of the canal
on road D54. Upon excavation and restoration of these megaliths it was discovered that they had been set
in a base of small stones above very ancient fire pits. Also, 3 km south from Port-de-Roche at Langon,
there is a group of 28 menhirs named Cromlech des Demoiselles. The legend of these standing stones is
that they were young girls, turned to stone for dancing rather than attending church! Langon has a
beautiful Romanesque church built in the 10th century, Église Saint-Pierre, and also Chapelle Sainte-
Agathe, which has a marvelous fresco of Venus coming out of the water. The mooring at Port-de-Roche is
near a handsome cast-iron bridge; if water and other services are needed, proceed on to Beslé.

The scenery is less attractive below Beslé, but in just a couple of hours you will be in Redon, the
crossroad of the Breton waterways. (Redon was described in the section covering the Canal de Nantes à
Brest; that paragraph is repeated below for the reader’s convenience.) The port at Redon is entered by
passing under the open guillotine of the Grand Vannage, a three-gate structure that closes only in times of
flooding. Pass through the sluice (probably holding your breath under the guillotine blade) then turn
sharply back to the right to enter the port as described below:

Approaching the city from the south, a fork in the river separates the route north to Rennes from the large
pleasure-boat port on the western arm of the fork. There are restaurants near the port, although it is not far
to the centre ville (and the rail station), dominated by the handsome Roman/Gothic Saint-Saveur abbey.
The eastside quay of the port is lined with 19th-century houses and it is also the location of the Western
Inland Water Transport Museum, with interesting presentations of the life of bargemen.

6
Menhirs, dolmen, stone circles, passage graves and alignments are one of the defining and mysterious elements of
Brittany. Although the sites mentioned above are in Ille-et-Vilaine, Morbihan is especially thickly studded with these
megalithic monuments, some of which predate Stonehenge by 1,000 years. The best known of these sites is at Carnac where
the aligned stones number in the thousands. Except for the passage graves, the meaning of the other megalithich arrangements
and the people who built them are shrouded in a mystery that may never be solved.
Redon to the ocean: Page 18

Downstream from Redon, the river widens as it flows through a broad valley. Across from the entrance to
the eastern section of the Canal de Nantes à Brest (Redon to Nantes) are the ruins of the Rieux castle, an
ancient base of Breton noblemen. After the next bridge at Cran, villages are now some distance back from
the river and there isn’t much to see, so the next stop to consider is at the port in Foleux. This village is in
a pretty setting; walk or bike to the Château de Lèhélec. But the more interesting destination is one of the
most popular boating centers in France, La Roche Bernard, 7 km ahead.

It is more of a seaport than an inland-waterway town. The pleasure boat harbors on the eastern shore are a
forest of masts, of sailboats that moor in these protected waters but cruise at the coast 20 km away. A
large modern suspension bridge crosses high above the waterway. The town was founded by the Vikings
and is today classified as another Petite Cité de Caractère, official “small cities of character” scattered
throughout Brittany. There is plenty to see in the old quarter, and a museum of the maritime history of the
Vilaine estuary. View the sights from one of the panoramic rocky outcroppings.

The last stopping-place before the sea is the large dam midway between the towns of Arzal and Camoël.
The dam, named barrage d’Arzal, includes a ladder for migratory fish and a lock on the western bank for
boating access to the final 13 km of the estuary at sea level. It is here that the level of the waterway is
controlled back to Redon and sometimes beyond, allowing the pleasant inland-waterway cruising
described above.
 uroCana EuroCanals Guide: Aulne/Hyère

ls
Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended Page 19
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, no commercial traffic,
slow currents.
PARIS
The western end of the Canal de Nantes à Brest (closed to navigation
since 1923) descends from the Montagnes Noires in Finistere to join the
canalized Hyère and then the canalized Aulne, which flows into the Rade de Brest
and the Atlantic Ocean. In 2002, the upper limit of navigation was at Penn-ar-Pont,
however work is in progress to reopen the waterway to Port de Carhaix.
Port de Carhaix to Port Launay: 78 km, 33 locks 25.7X4.7 m, Draft 1.10 m,
Height 2.50 m, Speed 6 km/hr
Penn-ar-Pont to Port Launay: 49 km, 18 locks 25.7X4.7 m, Draft 1.10 m,
Height 2.50 m, Speed 6 km/hr

To Brest

14 nautical miles

Landévennec
Auln
eM Hyère
ariti
me
Aulne Carhaix-Plouguer
Landévennec to
Port Launay Port Launay Port de Carhaix Goariva
29.6 km Chateauneuf-du-Faou
Chateaulin Canal de Nantes à Brest
Pont Coblant Pont Triffen (section closed)
Penn-ar-Pont
Elevation, meters
Limit of Navigation
80 (2002 Season)
70 Port de Carhaix

60 Pont Triffen
50
Chateauneuf-du-Faou
40 Penn-ar-Pont
30
Pont Coblant
20 Port Launay
Chateaulin
10
0
PK 365 Kilometers 337 316 297 287
Lock# 236 226 218 210 203
PK markers and Lock number follow the historic system of the Canal de Nantes à Brest, starting at Nantes.
Charts: Season: Open March through October.
Navicarte #12 Lock schedules vary,
Guide Vagnon #10 check with boat rental operator or contact:
Guide Fluviaux EDB #1 Service Navigation
Maps: 1, rue du Stade, 29520 Chateauneuf-du-Faou
Michelin # 230 Tel: +33 (0)2 98 81 76 45

Copyright EuroCanals 2003

Aulne – Hyère – Canal de Nantes à Brest (Western Section) Page 20

The peninsula of Brittany is the thumb of France, jutting into the Atlantic Ocean 250 kilometers beyond
the western shore of Normandy. The westernmost département7 is Finistère, “Land’s End”. At the risk of
being a little fanciful, picture the end of the peninsula as the profile of a dragon’s head, with a jagged
tongue showing. Atop his tongue is the bay named Rade de Brest, which narrows down into his throat as
the river Aulne. This is the western end of the Canal de Nantes à Brest, now generally referred to as the
Aulne & Hyère, since the through-route on the canal no longer exists.

Cruising on this waterway must be a round-trip, as there is no connection to other waterways. Coastal
cruisers can travel upstream from the sea (mindful of the relatively restrictive limitations of 1.10 meters
draft and 2.50 m height.) Or you can rent a boat at Penn-ar-Pont for a trip downstream as far as the tidal
lock at Port Launay. The currently-available length of the river is 49 km and 18 locks, so a 3-day round
trip is possible and a weeklong trip is leisurely. The PK distances and lock numbers shown on charts
retain the system used when the entire canal from Nantes was laid out, so they seem strange now (PK 360,
Lock #236 at Chateaulin, for example.) Although the Aulne and Hyère rivers have been canalised to some
extent, they have not been straightened and thus meander through the low rolling hills of the wooded and
agricultural countryside.

In the 2002 season, the upstream limit of navigation was at Penn-ar-Pont, due to work underway on the
Hyère section to Port de Carhaix. Assuming that this section will be reopened soon, this report includes
information on the Hyère, and begins there.

Port de Carhaix to Penn-ar-Pont:

The ancien Canal de Nantes à Brest joins with the river Hyère fifty kilometers west of the Lac de
Guerlédan at PK 287, near the city of Carhaix-Plouguer, an important agricultural center on the high
plains of western Brittany. It is not a city that is featured, or in fact even mentioned, in the tourist
brochures, but there are historical churches and houses from the 12th century and a Roman aqueduct.

There are not many villages located directly on the waterway, but be on the watch for stone chapels and
calvaires (calvary crosses, some very detailed and with a Jesus figure, other simple but beautiful plain
crosses.) Both can be found almost anywhere, not necessarily in a village or near any kind of settlement.
And you will notice here the many small road signs pointing to Ker... In the Breton language Ker means
village, but the signs may mean anything as small as a single farm. There are literally thousands of Ker...s
in Brittany. If you want to remember the name of a particular one, be sure to write it down, they can be
very confusing (Kergadalen, Kergousven, Kerrouzarc’h, Kergaëric and the descriptive Kerbastard are just
a few examples.)

7
The administrative subdivisions of France include 22 régions, including Bretagne, which is itself divided into 4 départements:
Ille-et-Vilaine, Morbihan, Côtes d’Armor and Finistère.
 Page 21
The Aulne merges from the north side at Pont Triffen and the Hyère name is no longer used. Twenty
kilometers downstream is Châteauneuf-du-Faou, a large town perched on a rocky promontory directly
across the river from the port at Penn-ar-Pont. There are full services here, and historical sites including
Notre-Dame des Portes church. In the Saint-Julien church are murals painted by Paul Sérusier, a
contemporary of Gaugin and a painter of the Pont-Aven school. Up the hillside behind Penn-ar-Pont is
the Domaine Trévarez, a pink Edwardian castle with extensive gardens of rhododendrons, camellias and
azaleas.

Fifteen kilometers downstream there is a mooring at PK 332, just below Lock #224, Roz Véguen. One of
the well-marked and well-used hiking trails of the region, Grand Randonée 38, crosses the bridge here.
On the north side of the canal, the trail follows the towpath (chemin de halage) downstream for five
kilometers to Pont-Coblant, then heads southward, uphill to the village of Gouézec. From there you can
leave the trail and follow small back roads to Tréguron and pick up the trail again to return to the
mooring, a pleasant and interesting hike of about 15 km. It is also a short walk from the mooring north on
the road to Saint-Nicolas chapel and another chapel at Néréhguen.8

After a section whose twists will bring the sun from all points of the compass, the waterway arrives at
Châteaulin, a pleasant, flower-filled city with a large street market on Thursdays. The stone walls along
the banks of the river are often lined with fishermen. Port Launay is 2 km beyond, near the end of the
inland waterway. The curving quay here is lined with very beautiful houses of shipowners from the period
when Châteaulin was an important port.

At the tidal lock, the estuary continues another 30 km to the final loop before entering the bay, at
Landévennec. Brest, a large city with a major French naval base, is 14 nautical miles across the bay.

8
For serious hikers, GR and lesser trails follow almost the entire length of the river valley; maps can purchased at bookstores,
tourist offices and most supermarkets.
Self-Skippered Boat Rental Bases Tourist Offices
Aulne Loisirs Plaisance Comité de Promotion Touristique des Canaux bretons
Penn-ar-Pont B.P. 76 Place du Parlement, 35600 REDON
29520 CHATEAUNEUF-DU-FAOU Tel: +33 (0)2 99 71 06 04
Tel: +33 (0)2 98 73 28 63 www.tourismebretagne.com

Redon to Nantes:
Bretagne Croisières Comité Départemental de Tourisme (Loire-Atlantique)
71, rue de Vannes 2 Allée Baco, 44000 NANTES
35600 REDON Tel: +33 (0)2 51 72 95 30 Fax: +33 (0)2 40 20 44 54
Tel: +33 (0)2 99 71 08 05 Fax: +33 (0)2 99 72 42 45
www.bretagnecroisieres.com/ Vilaine:
crouil@aol.com Pays d’Acqueil Touristique de Vilaine
Place de la République, 35600 REDON
Bretagne Fluvial/ Nicols Tel: +33 (0)2 99 72 72 11
Quai Cricklade
44240 SUCÉ-SUR-ERDRE Redon to Pontivy & Blavet:
Tel: +33 (0)2 40 77 79 51 Comité Départemental de Tourisme (Morbihan)
www.bretagne-fluviale.com/ Hôtel du Département
BP 400, 56009 VANNES Cedex
Bretagne Plaisance (Locaboat affiliate) Tel: +33 (0)2 97 54 06 56 Fax: +33 (0)2 97 42 71 02
12, quai Jean Bart
35600 REDON Blavet:
Tel: +33 (0)2 99 72 15 80 Fax: +33 (0)2 99 72 29 56 Pays d’Acqueil Touristique de la Vallée du Blavet
binfo@bretagne-plaisance.fr BP 43, 56150 BAUD
also: Locaboat Holidays Tel: +33 (0)2 07 51 09 37 Fax: +33 (0)2 97 39 07 23
Tel: +33 (0)3 86 91 72 72 Fax: +33 (0)3 86 62 42 41 www.paysdebaud.com/
e-mail: info@locaboat.com
www.locaboat.com/ Hotel Barges
No hotel barges travel on these waterways.
Brittany Cruisers
Les Bateaux Tranq’Ille’O Rail Stations
Ville Neuve TGV from Paris/Montparnasse to Brest, Lorient,
35760 ST GREGOIRE (Rennes) Redon, Rennes & Nantes.
Tel: +33 (0)2 99 68 79 64 Connections to Dinan, St Malo & Carhaix.
Schedules available at www.sncf.fr/

Crown Blue Line, France Hotels

Tel: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 72 Fax: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 73
e-mail: boathols@crown-blueline.com
www.crownblueline.com/
Dinan: Best Western Hotel Jerzual
26 quai des Talards, Dinan Port
22100 LANVALLAY
Tel: +33 (0)2 96 87 02 02 Fax: +33 (0)2 96 87 02 03
hotel-jerzual.dinan@wanadoo.fr
www.bestwestern.com/fr/jerzual

CBL port at Messac: Tel: +33 (0)2 99 34 60 11 Redon: Chandouineau

10 ave. de la Gare
A.N.C. Ledoux Evasion 35600 REDON
Port Neuf B.P. 49 Tel: +33 (0)2 99 71 02 04 Fax: +33 (0)2 99 71 08 81
56130 LA ROCHE–BERNARD www.logis-de-france.fr/
Tel: +33 (0)2 99 90 66 77
ateliersnavalsdelacouronne.fr Rennes: Ar Milin (“The Mill”)
30 rue de Paris BP 25
Nicols 35220 CHATEAUBOURG
Route de Saint-Gouvry (20 km east of Rennes on non-navigable Vilaine)
56580 ROHAN Tel: +33 (0)2 99 00 30 91 Fax: +33 (0)2 99 00 37 56
Tel: +33 (0)2 97 38 90 17 armilin@wanadoo.fr
www.nicols.com/
Breton – French – English Glossary

Breton, Brehoneg Français English (language)

Breizh La Bretagne Brittany (region)
aber estuaire estuary
amann beurre butter
aod grève, côte beach, strand, coast
Argoad, argoat region boisée, intérieur des terres forest, interior region
Ar mor La mer the sea
Ar vor littoral littoral, seacoast
aval pomme apple
bara pain bread
beg pointe point (of land)
bigorned bigorneaux a type of clam
bihan petit small
bugale enfant child
caer beau beautiful, handsome
c’hastell, kastell chateau castle
c’hoad, coat, koad bois wood, woods
Demat Bonjour Hello, Good Morning, Good Day
dour eau water
du noir black
enez île island
Fest-Deiz Fête du jour festival day
Fest-Noz Fête du nuit festival night
feunteun fontaine fountain
glaz bleu blue
gored barrage dam, weir
groaz croix crossroads
gwazh ruisseau stream, brook, creek
gwenn blanc white
Gwen Ha Du drapeau breton breton flag “Black and White”
gwez arbre tree
gwin vin wine
hent route, chemin road, highway
iliz église church
kafe café cafe, luncheonette
Kenavo Au Revoir Goodbye
Ker ville, village town, village, settlement
kig viande meat
koant joli pretty, pleasing
kouign gâteau cake
kozh vieux old
krampouezh crêpes crepes, pancakes
kreiz ker centre ville town center
kroaz-hent carrefour intersection
lann monastère monastery
mad bon good
maen-hir, peulvan menhir megalithic stone monument
maez grand champ large field
mam mère mother
marc’h cheval horse
Mar plij S’il vous plait Please
Mat eo! C’est bon! That’s good!
menez montagne mountain
meur grand, majestueux large, majestic
milin moulin mill
mor mer sea
Nann Non No
nevez neuf new
Nozvezh vat Bonsoir Good Evening
palud marais marsh
penn tête top, summit
pesked poisson fish
pesketaerezh pêche fishing
plou paroisse parish
porz, porzh port port, harbor
pred repas meal
sistr, jistr cidre cider
stêr rivière river
tad père father
ti, ty maison house
ti-krampouezh crêperie crepes restaurant
traezhen plage beach
traou vallée valley
trez sable sand
Trugarez Merci Thank You
unan, daou, tri, pevar, pemp, un, deux, trois, quatre, cinq, six, one, two, three, four, five, six,
c’hwec’h, seizh, eizh, nav, dek sept, huit, neuf, dix seven, eight, nine, ten
Vacansoù mat! Bonnes vacances! Have a good vacation!
vag, bag bateau boat
Ya Oui Yes
Yec’had mat! A la vôtre! Bonne Santé! Cheers! Good Health! (a toast)

Copyright EuroCanals 2003

 Alsace & Lorraine-Est;
Canal de la Marne au Rhin

Zorn river above Lutzelbourg

 Can Alsace -Lorraine Est
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Gondrexange to Niderviller Page 2

NOTE: The following pages, describing a cruise from Xouaxange to Strasbourg, are also published in the
EuroCanals Guide: Canal du Marne au Rhin. They are included here because the the route is the primary
cruising area in Alsace and the neighboring eastern portion of Lorraine.

The western end of the prime cruising territory

of eastern France is at the halte fluviale at
Xouaxange, a charming village with a rather
strange name.

The port at Hesse (below) is a base for Crown

Blue Line rental boats, and offers full services.
Another 4 km leads to a mooring at Niderviller.
The latter is a good stop for a cycling trip to
investigate the faïence and crystal produced here
and in other nearby villages. Another point of
interest in this area is at Sarrebourg, home of the
large and very beautiful stained glass window by
Marc Chagall in the Cordeliers Chapel.

There are two very good restaurants nearby, each awarded one Michelin star:

Ernest Mathis: Michelin describes the cuisine as "inventive".

7 rue Gambetta, Sarrebourg Tel 03 87 03 21 67

Au Soldat de l'An II: cuisine is modern, based on the regional traditions.

1 route Saverne, Phalsbourg Tel 03 87 24 16 16

The restaurants can be reached by bicycle, or call and ask to be picked up.
 Can Alsace -Lorraine Est
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Page 3
Niderviller to Arzviller
After passing through gently rolling countryside,
the canal enters first the relatively short Niderviller
tunnel, and then the 2,306-meter (1.44 miles)
Arzviller tunnel. East of the tunnel, the surroundings
now become steep, densely forested hills. The path
of the canal continues through the forest at the same
level to the top of the famous Arzviller boatlift. The
land falls away on the left side down a narrow gorge
which contains a small, twisting road, a rail line and
the old canal route. The latter is the Ancienne Echelle
de 17 écluses, an abandoned ladder of 17 locks,
each with its own lock keeper's cottage. The basins
of these locks and the pounds between are now filled
with logs that have been cut from the surrounding
A rental cruiser enters the Arzviller tunnel, eastern end forest and are awaiting transport to a mill.
The view from the "new" canal, which curves along
the shoulder at the top of a ridge, is unusual. The
waterway looks out on treetops, the roofs of houses
and the tiny logs far below.
The French are justifiably proud of the spectacular
Arzviller-St Louis inclined-plane boatlift. On this
day it lowers a single cruiser, but it is capable of
transporting a péniche or several cruisers (a total of
900 tons of boats and water, in practice limited
only by the number of boats that will fit in.) Boats
float into a water-filled caisson, and then this
traveling bathtub is sealed by a vertical gate and
lowered transversely down a 41% slope to the canal
45 meters below. The whole process takes less than thirty minutes, eliminating a full day of negotiating the
seventeen locks of the previous route. On busier days, the lift returns uphill with boats traveling westbound.
The lift uses electric motors and cables, but a counter-
weight makes the work fairly easy. It is the principle of
displacement; each boat displaces its own weight of
water, thus a caisson filled only with water weighs the
same as when boats enter and some of the water flows
out of the tank. The mechanism is always moving the
same weight, regardless of the number or size of the
boats in the tank. The ride itself is very smooth, and it's
a perfect time to enjoy the views of the forests and the
valley below. Tourists arriving by car can visit the site
on foot, by tour boat or on a small roadgoing train. There
are fees for all of this, but canal cruisers pay nothing but
their basic canal-usage fee.
A wide pound is provided at the bottom of the lift for the
180-degree turn required and for boats waiting their turn.
 Can
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Arzviller to Lutzelbourg Page 4

Just a short distance further on, we saw this very

beautiful black, green, magenta and white barge;
it had spent a peaceful winter at this secluded spot,
adjacent to the lock keeper's house at Écluse #18.
It's worth getting off at this lock for a look at the
vegetable garden and poultry pen behind the house,
and beyond those to a rushing frothy stream. (It all
makes one think that being a lock keeper must be
one of the world's dream jobs!)
The canal descends alongside the river Zorn to the
charming village of Lutzelbourg. The canal is now
deep in a narrow S-shaped gorge, with the ruins of
the 10th-century Lutzelbourg Château on the cliff
high above. This is the view from the chateau:

There are three ports serving this popular stop. The upstream port is operated by Locaboat Plaisance; at this time
of year (late March) there are over twenty of their rental plénichettes moored along the right bank, being serviced
for the coming season. The other two ports are around the curve and beyond the lock that is the center point of
the village. These are all delightful places for a stop overnight or longer, to enjoy the village and get some
exercise with a pleasant walk. A paved road or a hiking path switchback up the southern ridge, making for an
easy climb to the chateau. The ruins are open to the public (with only the obligatory warning signs about the
dangers ahead) and are especially interesting because they are unrestored and do not include any modern food or
souvenir shops. There are several spots that allow unrestricted views of the canal upstream and downstream, and
of the entire village.
 Can Alsace -Lorraine Est
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Lutzelbourg to Saverne Page 5

Lutzelbourg is a quaint mountain town right on the

border between the Lorraine and Alsace regions, an
area that was traded back and forth between France
and Germany several times in the 19th and 20th
centuries. Most signs show French and German
versions.

The best one-day canal cruise in France is right

here, from Arzviller to Saverne. That's not just
my opinion; listen to these quotes:

"This stage is without doubt one of the most

beautiful stretches that you could sail along
anywhere on the French network."
Jean Morlot, Guide Vagnon de Tourisme Fluvial

"Given just one day to convert a person to the

delights of French canal cruising, I would choose
to take them along the 20km of Canal de la
Marne au Rhin from Saverne to Niderviller in
northwestern Alsace."
Hugh McKnight, Cruising French Waterways

The highway along this part of the canal is labeled "Route des Chateaux". Several of these pink sandstone
castles are perched on crags atop the hills, above dark pines and green deciduous forests. These are the foothills
at the north end of the Vosges mountain range that extends north to south above the plain of Alsace and the
Rhine valley, a neighbor matching the Black Forest range on the German side.

Château Haut-Barr is a famous viewpoint that overlooks the canal on one side and most of Alsace on the other.
It is 5 km by road from Saverne and can be reached by bus. However, compared to the very serene and spiritual
feeling at Lutzelbourg, Haut-Barr was a little too "touristy" for us. But the view is worth the trip, from up here
you can see across the Alsatian plain to the Rhine.
 Can Alsace -Lorraine Est
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Page 6
Saverne to Strasbourg
Saverne is the site of an excellent port, with a base
for Nicols rental boats. Across the canal from the
docks is the massive Château des Rohans, the
former summer palace of the powerful Rohan
family and now operated by the city as a museum
and government offices. Along the canal to the
west of the old quarter is a public garden with
over 1,000 varieties of roses. In this city of half-
timbered houses, the Taverne Katz stands out
quite literally, its finely carved timbers (dating
from 1605) project over the pedestrian street
below. The picture-postcard style and traditional
Alsatian cuisine and wines make this a very popular and famous restaurant.

Between Saverne and Strasbourg the canal descends through twenty locks and 41 km across the Alsatian Plain.
Some of the history of this area can be understood from French-German variations of the town names; the first
potential stop below Saverne is at Dettwiller, spelled with a "w" as compared to the "v" in Niderviller. Many of
the names end in "-heim"; Waltenheim-sur-Zorn is one such village, a German name with the French suffix "sur
Zorn". The quay here has been used by hotel barges as a base for their tours on the "wine road" south to Colmar.
The canal does not pass directly through vineyard areas, in fact the canal area is more noted for the brewing of
beer, most famouly at Hochfelden, which has been the home of Météor Alsatian beers since 1640!

The steep-sided valley of the Zorn River as it parallels the canal from Saverne down to Waltenheim adds to the
attraction of this agricultural area. But then the last 20 km of the route strikes out straight across the fields for
Strasbourg. While there are moorings to be found closer to the city, many canal travelers prefer to moor four km
northwest at the port of Souffelweyersheim, where bus service into the city is available. There is some risk of
vandalism or theft at the city moorings.
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Strasbourg
Strasbourg is a cosmopolitan city and home of the
European Parliament. The usual destination for
visitors is in the old city; it is very French in the
the cathedral area and at La Petite France, shown
at right. For canal travelers, the first approach to
the city on the canal is directly in front of the
ultra-modern Palais de l'Europe buildings.While
it is possible to turn there onto the river Ill to go
into the center of Strasbourg, rental boats are
prohibited and all private vessels encounter a
one-way prohibition at the Quai des Pêcheurs,
where short-term mooring may be possible.

Sidewalk cafes, restaurants and shops line the narrow,

twisting streets of Petite France and the old quarter
around the Strasbourg Cathedral. The west facade of
the cathedral, with its stunning stained-glass Rose
Window (fifty feet in diameter) dominates the square
below, even though street level is filled with portrait
artists, souvenir vendors and food stands. Inside the
cathedral, watch for the Astronomical Clock to come
to life, with its apostles, angels and astrological
symbols.

The river Ill passes through the sector; it is

difficult to enjoy the sights on your own vessel,
but there are many excursion boats offering tours
and sidewalks are at river level on some channels,
making a walk along the banks very pleasant.

This somewhat confusing intersection of several

waterways is detailed on the next page.
The Canal de la Marne au Rhin ends at a junction
with the river Rhine, on the northeastern corner of
the city of Strasbourg.
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Waterways of Strasbourg

To Saverne Canal de la Marne au Rhin

41 km from Rhin Rhin river
Lock 50 Ill river
P1
Aar river (non-motorized boats only)
Souffelweyersheim
Canal du Rhone au Rhin, br nord
Fossé du Faux
Canal de Jonction
Fossé des Remparts/Canal de Derivation
P2 Bisheim
Lock 51
Schiltigheim

la Robertsau
Lock
Strasbourg
Palais de l'Europe
P3 Nord
(European Parliament)

Gare
Kehl
Cathedral
P5
Petite
France
STRASBOURG
igation
ay Nav
One-W

P4
P6 Lock 86 Bassin
P7 d'Austerlitz
Lock 85

Lock
PORTS: Strasbourg
Sud
P1 Souffelweyersheim
P2 Chemins Nautique d'Alsace Tel 03 88 81 39 39
P3 Quai Jacoutot (no services)
Lock 84
P4 Quai des Belges; Koejac Marine Tel 03 88 61 26 78
P5 Quai des Pecheurs
P6 Bassin de l'Hopital
P7 Marinest Tel 03 88 29 74 93

To Boofzheim & Rhinau,

junction with Rhin river
30 km
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The Rhine Valley Page 9

The Rhine Valley along the portion of the Rhine river that forms the border between France and Germany for
184 kilometers north from Basel, Switzerland, can be compared in terms of size, traffic and economic
significance to both the Panama and the Suez canals. The difference is that, rather than connecting two seas, it
provides connections between three countries.

Because the valley is broad and flat (rather than the narrow Rhine Gorge further north), the original course of the
river was dotted by hundreds of islands and shallow channels. Massive construction projects throughout the 20th
century have installed a series of dams, hydroelectric generating stations and locks along the river. For much of
the distance, the Grand Canal d'Alsace has been created as a lateral canal, offering a controlled and reliable route
for the heavy traffic of commercial barges but resulting in uninteresting and somewhat hazardous travel for
rivate vessels (rental boats may use the Rhine/Grand Canal d'Alsace route only with special permission.)

A better alternative for pleasure cruising is to leave Strasbourg at its southwestern corner via the Canal du Rhône
au Rhin, branche nord. This is a 35 km portion of the canal that originally continued north from Mulhouse
(after bringing canal traffic from Burgundy and the Rhône valley) but became disused with the construction of
the Grand Canal. This waterway is dead straight, with only an occasional slight angle to adjust its direction, but
it is narrow, tree-lined and only occasionally used by small commercial barges. It offers peaceful travel and
everal small ports for visits to the classic Alsatian villages to enjoy the cuisine, wine and strolls among half-
timbered homes laden with bright flowered window boxes.

A favorite stop for many is the beautiful chapel and grounds at Notre Dame du Chêne at Thumenau,
approximately halfway along the route. When commercial traffic was more prevalent this was a regular stop for
the passing bargees; now many more visitors arrive by car, but it is still a peaceful and shady spot to relax.

At Rhinau, the active waterway leaves the original canal and crosses to a junction with the Grand Canal;
the Canal du Rhône au Rhin is closed to traffic south of here, except for a small stretch that is part of the Colmar
embranchment. Rental boats will turn around; private vessels can continue on the busy canal/river to
Volgelsheim, where they can cruise through the fields to Colmar, most likely encountering little or no traffic.

The embranchment ends at the modern Colmar marina; unfortunately the river Lauch, which winds through the
lovely Petite Venise quarter, is too small for navigation, but the area is easily reachable by bus or bike. Scenes of
waterfront cafes with abundant flowers and half-timbered homes, shops and hotels in this sector are often seen
on postcards and in travel guidebooks. The nearby city center is home to enough interesting and historic
buildings for several days' visits, especially the Unterlinden museum and the highly popular medieval art of
Matthias Grünewald.

Mulhouse (pronounced Moolooze) is the southernmost city in Alsace, and the least interesting for tourists. For
canal travelers, it represents the eastern end of the Canal du Rhône au Rhin, connecting to the Rhine 17 km away
at Niffer. Being an industrial city, there are several technological museums and the world-famous collection of
automobiles of the Schlumpf brothers, which was taken over by the government after the family textile mills
were bankrupted due to the excesses of the collection.
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest

"The best one-day canal cruise in France" is the way many experienced canal
PARIS
travelers rate the 20 kilometers between Niderviller and Saverne. At Strasbourg,
waterways pass by the European Parliament buildings, the Cathedral
and La Petite France. South of Strasbourg, the canal is an alternative to the Rhine
and a pleasant short trip through typical Alsatian villages.
Canal de la Marne au Rhin, Gondrexange to Strasbourg:
Length: 85 km; Number of Locks: 35; Lock Size: 38.5 X 5.1 m
Minimum Depth: 2.10 m Minimum Height: 3.50 m

Lutzelbourg Dettwiller Hochfelden

Sarrebourg Waltenheim
Hesse
Arzviller Saverne
Gondrexange Xouaxange Season: Open all year
ALSACE Schiltigheim
LORRAINE Strasbourg Locks operate:
Dec 1 to Jan 31: 0730 to 1730 hours
Canal du Rhone au Rhin Nord Feb 1 to Feb 28: 0700 to 1800
Length: 35 km Krafft GERMANY Mar 1 to Mar 31: 0700 to 1900
Number of Locks: 12 April 1 to Sept 30: 0630 to 1930
Minimum Depth: 2.20 m Oct 1 to Nov 30: 0700 to 1800
Rhinau
Minimum Height: 3.70 m Closed Jan 1, Easter Sunday, May 1, Mon
Lock Size: 38.5 X 5.1 m after Whitsun, July 14, Nov 11 & Dec 25
RHINE
Charts:
Colmar Navicarte #17
Colmar embranchment: Guide Vagnon #12
Length: 23 km Guide Fluviaux EDB #4
Number of Locks: 3 Map:
Minimum Depth: 1.80 m Michelin #242
Minimum Height: 3.65 m Mulhouse
Lock Size: 38.5 X 5.1 m

e
u R hon
al d u Rhin
Can a Basel, Switzerland
Elevation,
meters
Niderviller tunnel
150 475 m Arzviller tunnel
Gondexrange 2306 m
120 Xouaxange Inclined Plane
Boat Lift
Hesse
Niderviller
90 Arzviller
St Louis
Lutzelbourg
60 Saverne
Dettwiller
30 Hochfelden
Krafft
Rhinau
Schiltigheim Strasbourg
0 02 8 13 17 23 27 31 39 50 58 81 85-0 20 35
Lock Number 18 22 31 37 42 50 52 -- 86 80 75
 a
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Useful Addresses ls
VNF – Service Navigation,
4 parc de l’Orangerie,
03 88 45 56 65
ther off the canal than are shown on the
strip chartbooks of the canal, necessarily
46 quai Jacoutot, 67000 STRASBOURG Strasbourg, L’Alsace à Table, limited to just a few kilometers off the canal.
Tel 03 88 61 66 01 8 rue de Franc-Bourgeois,
VNF – Service Navigation, 03 88 32 50 62 Telephones
12 rue de l’Orangerie, 67703 SAVERNE Krafft, L’Auberge à la Station, Public telephones are readily available in
Tel 03 88 91 80 83 9 rue St Quentin, 03 88 98 98 30 towns and at many locks, but they will
Tourist Office, Lutzelbourg Colmar, Le Marechal, not accept coins, and only rarely accept
Tel 03 87 25 30 19 4 Place des Six Montagnes Noires, credit cards. Purchase a prepaid telephone
Office du Tourisme, 03 89 41 60 32 card at La Poste (post office) or at some
17 Place de la Cathédrale, tabacs (bar/tobacco shop.) International
67000 STRASBOURG, Tel 03 88 52 28 28 Hotel Barges calls are surprisingly inexpensive. Mobile
Office du Tourisme, Lorraine & Le Papillon offer weeklong phones are widely used, but make sure
4 rue des Unterlinden, 68000 cruises between Strasbourg and yours is compatible (most US phones are
COLMAR 03 89 20 68 92 Lagarde/Nancy. not) and purchase a prepaid SIM card at a
cell-phone shop in France. This card will
Rail Stations Self-Skippered Boat Rentals come with its own telephone number.
Sarrebourg These companies (telephone) operate
Saverne rental bases at these towns: Sites
Strasbourg Gondexrange Chagall stained glass window, the largest
Colmar Aquavac Plaisance 03 87 25 94 22 in Europe, at the Cordeliers’ Chapel,
Mulhouse Hesse Sarrebourg.
Crown Blue Line 03 87 03 61 74
Hotels Lutzelbourg Météor brewery, Hochfelden.
Heming, Auberge Alsacienne, locaboat plaisance 03 87 25 37 07 Tours: Wednesdays at 1430h.
17 rue de Strasbourg, Saverne Tel 03 88 02 22 22
03 87 25 00 10 Nicols 03 88 91 34 80
Saverne, Boeuf Noir, Schiltigheim Pottery: Faïencerie de Niderviller,
22 Grand Rue, 03 88 91 10 53 Chemins Nautique 03 88 81 39 39 2 rue de la Faïencerie, Niderviller
Strasbourg, Le Gutenberg, Krafft Tel 03 87 23 80 04
31 rue de Serruriers, 03 88 32 17 15 Rive de France 03 87 86 65 01
Colmar, Le Marechal, Boofzheim Crystal: Cristallerie de Vallerysthal,
4 Place des Six Montagnes Noires, Crown Blue Line 03 88 74 89 97 3 rue des Cristalleries, Vallerysthal
03 89 41 60 32 Tel 03 87 25 62 04
Ports (paying ports with services)
Restaurants Hesse Route des Vins d'Alsace:
Xouaxange, L’Auberge du Mesnil, Crown Blue Line 03 87 03 61 74 Visit the vineyards producing Sylvaner,
14 rue de l’École, 03 87 25 03 44 Niderviller Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat, Tokay Pinot
Niderviller, Auberge Altenburger, Mairie 03 87 23 80 02 Gris, Pinot Noir & Gewurztraminer wines
Tel 03 87 07 91 24 Lutzelbourg on a 170 km route along the Vosges.
Lutzelbourg, Hôtel des Vosges, locaboat plaisance 03 87 25 37 07 Brochure; Conseil Interprofossionel des
Tel 03 87 25 30 09 Saverne Vins d’Alsace, 12 ave. de la Foire-aux-Vins,
Saverne, Taverne Katz, 80 Grand Rue, Tel Mairie 03 88 71 52 71 B.P. 1217, 68012 COLMAR CEDEX, France
03 88 71 16 56 Souffelweyersheim
Saverne, Zum Staeffele, Mairie Shopping, Markets
1 rue Poincaré, 03 88 91 63 94 Schiltigheim Shops are generally closed Mondays and
Phalsbourg, Au Soldat de l’An 2, Chemins Nautique 03 88 81 39 39 every day from noon till mid-afternoon
1 route de Saverne, 03 87 24 16 16 Strasbourg (shop early.)
Dettwiller, À la Charrue, Marinest 03 88 29 74 93
Tel 03 88 91 40 65 l’Hôpital 03 88 84 50 54 Street Market Days:
Waltenheim, L’Ancre, Koejac 03 88 61 26 78 TOWN MARKET DAY
Tel 03 88 51 62 37 Sarrebourg Tues & Fri morning
Vendenheim, Maison Rouge, Maps Saverne Thursday
RN63, 03 88 69 51 79 Take along a highway map such as the Hochfelden Tues morning
Strasbourg, Buerehiesel (****), Michelin #242 to check towns and sites fur- Strasbourg Wed & Friday
 Canal de Bourgogne

Canal de Bourgogne, Ouche valley

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Canal de Bourgogne

The Burgundy Canal is widely accepted as one of the most beautiful of the French waterways, as proven by the
number of hotel barges that offer cruises here; of roughly thirty hotel barges that travel the canals of France,
two-thirds of them travel portions of the Canal de Bourgogne during all or part of the cruising season. This
popular route is also ideal for self-skippered cruising in your own vessel or in a boat rented from one of a dozen
locations on the canal. Canal cruisers can enjoy the earthly delights of gourmet food and wine along with
treasures of history and architecture, as well as magnificent natural valleys and plains.

Located in the French départements of YONNE & CÔTE D'OR, the 242 km (150 miles) canal was built to link
the North Sea to the Mediterranean, passing over and through the barrier of the mountains of Burgundy. The
through-route from the north is up the Seine to Montereau, then along the Yonne River to Laroche-Migennes,
the northern entrance to the Canal de Bourgogne. The canal rises a total of 300 meters to the summit tunnel at
Pouilly-en-Auxois, then descends 200 meters to the southern end (St-Jean-de-Losne, 30km below Dijon) where
it intersects with the Saône river, which flows south to the Rhône and thus to the Med.

The Burgundy Route is frequently considered by through-travelers as an alternative to the Bourbonnais Route
along the Canaux du Centre (see Canaux du Centre.) It is usually thought that those canals, along the
western edge of Burgundy, make for more leisurely travel as compared to the many and frequent locks of the
Canal de Bourgogne.

Here are the figures, for a comparison of the two routes between St. Mammès on the Seine to St Jean-de-Losne:

Burgundy Route Bourbonnais Route

Waterways Seine, Yonne, C. du Loing, C. de Briare,

C. de Bourgogne C. lat. à la Loire, C. du Centre, Saône

Distance 342 km 485 km

Number of locks 205 153

Travel time* 101 hours 116.5 hours

The Burgundy route has 52 more locks but 143 less kilometers distance and perhaps two days less travel time.
Another consideration for some vessels is the limited headroom in the tunnel at Pouilly, 3.10 meters. And a
major factor in recent years has been a shortage of water to serve the locks of both routes; the Canal de
Bourgogne has frequently been closed at the summit tunnel for most of the season, while traffic on the Canal du
Centre has been delayed by grouped locking practices and shallow water. Check both routes carefully before
and during the trip, by contacting the waterway authorities and talking with those boaters passing in the opposite
direction.

*Travel time is taken from the estimates shown on Navicarte #41, based on the speed limit and locking time. But
travel time is a highly variable subject and depends on many factors; these times are for full-time travel, with no
allowance for sightseeing or rest stops.
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Canal de Bourgogne

Even though the crew is kept busy at the many locks, they should also take the time to enjoy the beautiful
scenery and visit the charming villages. Most of the way the canal follows the usual practice of following along
near a river on the valley floor and the views are of wooded hills above, but in one section the canal climbs the
flank of the hillside and boaters can look down on green fields dotted with white Charolais cattle.

There are three quite distinct sections of the canal: the Northern, Central and Plain. In the Northern section,
starting from the Yonne river junction at Migennes, the canal follows close to the river Armançon in a broad
agricultural valley, pretty but not spectacular. The stretches of canal between the towns of Migennes, Brienon,
St. Florentin and Tonnerre are straight and flat, so the main attractions are in the towns themselves; each has
churches and historic buildings worthy of a visit. Occasional commercial barge traffic is seen.

A flash of life in the fast lane occurs when the TGV fast train crosses the canal at kilometer post #14 just south
of Brienon. Not far away are the vineyards of the Chablis region and just across the canal from Tonnerre the
Epineul vineyard is being revived. Nearby at lock #96 is the office of the VNF Navigation Service, where
current information regarding lock operating hours and the status of the canal can be obtained.

The canal begins to wind and become more

beautiful beyond Tonnerre. There is a
fascinating stop at Tanlay, a charming
village of stone houses and a very pleasant
port adjacent to the village.

The slightly shabby but still impressive

Château de Tanlay should be visited for its
trompe l'oeil paintings and frescoes as well
as for its remarkable grounds, with wide
moats and a canal (and now even a golf
course!) The chateau is privately owned
and has been in the same family since 1704.
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Canal de Bourgogne

Another pleasant port arrives only 2 km

further on, at St. Vinnemer, a perfect
Burgundian village with houses built of
dry-stacked stones.

More of these villages come with each twist

of the canal: Argentenay, Ancy-le-Libre,
Lézinnes, Pacy, Argenteuil all have no
special claim, just quiet places with their
own charm.

At Ancy-le-Franc visit the chateau in the village,

one of the most beautiful Renaissance houses in
Burgundy. It is only a short walk from another
nice port, about 1 km from town; on the opposite
bank is a large home now used as a chambres
d'hôtes, a rural bed & breakfast.

Another 1½ km south at Chassignelles is a plain but modern hotel and restaurant, the Hotel de l'Ecluse 79, part
of the Logis de France network of lodgings. We had a very good lunch here, served by a family that included a
four-year-old waiter (a garçon in both meanings of the word!)

Around a bend after lock #79, limestone quarries can be seen on the left and also further on at Ravières; in the
villages, cut blocks of limestone wait for transport by barge and truck

Near Montbard, at the end of the Northern section of the canal, the 12th century Cistercian Abbaye de Fontenay
is located in a narrow wooded valley, a 3km bike or walk from lock #62 at Moulin de Nogent. Built in 1118, the
abbey is open for tours of the magnificent cloisters, the water-powered forge and the beautiful gardens.
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Canal de Bourgogne

The Central, hilly section from Venarey-les-Laumes to Dijon is ideal for pleasure cruising, winding through
spectacular scenery. Along the canal there is a wealth of history and art to be discovered. This section passes
through three regions: Tonnerrois, Auxois and Arrière-Côte, among the most attractive in Burgundy. Here is the
end of the relatively flat valley, for at Pouillenoy the canal begins the climb up the hills, twisting and turning
through an isolated valley on its way to the summit.

It is this part of the canal that gives the C. de Bourgogne its reputation as being heavily locked. It's true; there are
56 locks up from Venarey-les-Laumes to Pouilly, then a 3.3km tunnel, then 54 locks down to Dijon, all of this in
a distance of only 98km. But this is also the section with the most spectacular scenery, so plan on several rest
stops to enjoy the sights, or even to leave the canal for a day-trip. Such as at Pouillenay, where a taxi can be hired
for the 10km road to Semur-en-Auxois (or strong-legged bikers can pedal it). The village is tightly packed with
stone houses and narrow streets upon red granite cliffs above a curve in the Armançon river.

Pouillenay is only 4 km since the start of the climb, but

already twenty percent of the locks are behind us. After the
ladder of 18 locks in 6km lies Marigny-le-Cahouët, a good
village for another rest stop far from any highways or
commercial activity.

Now there is a 10km leg of 14 locks to a highway crossing

at Pont Royal. From here there are 13 locks in the 20km
section to the summit at Pouilly, a town that offers full
services before travelers enter the tunnel for a memorable
3,333 meter trip (slightly more than 2 miles) through a dark
low-ceilinged hole in the ground.

The other side of the summit offers more of

the same, lots of locks, but at Vandenesse,
lock #8, look up for a view of Chateauneuf,
a very imposing stone fortress on the hilltop.

Most guidebooks or photo books of the

French canals will include a picture taken
from the canal looking up, or from the
chateau looking back down.

Then climb to visit this village of well-

preserved old houses, tour the castle and
enjoy the wonderful views of the plain and
the valleys of Burgundy.
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Canal de Bourgogne

At le Pont d'Ouche, the canal turns left 90 degrees to join the verdant valley of the Ouche River as it flows down
into Dijon. The river and the canal are secluded in a narrow, twisting valley with densely wooded slopes.
Cruising slowly through here on a boat is a pleasurable visual experience, at least until Pont de Pany, where the
autoroute from Paris is right alongside the canal on its approach into Dijon. But some cruisers complain that the
noise of heavy traffic fills the valley and spoils what could be a wonderful experience.

There are charming villages and good

moorings at la Bussiere, Gissey and
Fleurey, all named in the French style:
...-sur-Ouche to identify their location
as being on the Ouche River.

A full-service port is available at Plombieres-les-Dijon, good for regrouping before arrival at Dijon. Just south of
Plombieres the Ouche flows into lac Kir, named for Canon Kir of Dijon, who also gave his name to the famous
aperitif made from the currants that grow in the area.

The hilly Central section ends abruptly at Dijon, center of the riches of French history. The seat of the Dukes of
Burgundy, mansions and monuments bear witness to its important past. In the present, it is a world-renowned
gastronomic center and the commercial capital of Burgundy. The port is not far from the major historical squares
and buildings of this large city.

The Port du Canal at Dijon is reserved for

pleasure boats; all types are seen here, but it
is especially popular with large barges
because of the space available.

The port is starting point or destination for

several hotel barges. Moored at the quai on
a this cold and rainy Saturday were the
barges Esprit, Caprice, Who Knows?,
Doriance, Niagara, La Reine Pedaque and
Escargot. Motorcoaches bring guests here
after their arrival from Paris on the TGV
(a trip of 1 hour 42 min.)

Dijon is at the northeastern end of the Côte d'Or (the Golden Hillside.) A visit to this area in autumn shows the
reason for the name; terraced vineyards that are many shades of gold cover a long hillside stretching south from
Dijon to Beaune and Chagny. Excursions are available on bus tours, or rental cars can be the best way to visit
the vineyards and sights of this well-known tourist area.
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Canal de Bourgogne

Immediately below Dijon there is a startling

change of scenery, first because of the
commercial and industrial activity near the
port and on to the south in the suburbs.
Then because the canal is a straight line
through the almost perfectly flat Plain
section (there is some slope here, the canal
descends fifty meters between Dijon and
the river Saône.)

At the end of the canal is the area called

"The Center of the French Waterways".

Canal de la Marne
a la Saone to Reims Saone R/Canal de l'Est
or Paris to Nancy, then
Moselle R to Rhine River
Canal de Bourgogne
at Koblenz
to Paris

Canal du Rhone au Rhin The town of St Jean-de-Losne is home of several

Saone River to Rhine River at boatyards and boat brokers, an important place to
Basel or Strasbourg
St-Jean-de-Losne,
search for a barge to buy, to have it renovated and
"Center of the French Waterways" maintained, or to store it for the winter.
Canaux du Centre
to Paris Saone/Rhone
to Lyon & Med

The photo at left shows the halte nautique on the

river Saône at the town waterfront, a good place to
moor for a visit; long-term mooring is available at
sheltered ports.

Here the Canal de Bourgogne connects with

other canals and rivers that lead into the network
of the rest of the waterways of Europe, to the
south, to the north and to the northeast.
 Can
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest

WARNING: In 2002 & 2003 the summit tunnel was closed most of the PARIS
season due to lack of water. Check ahead before traveling.

The Canal de Bourgogne was conceived during the reigns of Louis XII and
Francois 1st as a route to connect the watersheds of the Seine and the Rhone
by crossing the hills of Burgundy. The first steps were taken in 1606 under Henry IV
but it was not until 1833 that the canal was completed and the first barge arrived
from the north into Dijon. The summit is the highest in France (378 meters) and
marks the divide between the Atlantic and Mediterranean river systems.

To River Seine Length: 242 km Season: March 28-Nov 10

& PARIS St Florentin Number of locks: 189 Locks Open: 0800-1200 &
Yonne/Seine side 113 1300-1900 (except close at
Migennes 1800 after Sept 19 & Sundays
Saone/Rhone side 76
Most locks manual, most & holidays)
Yo iver

Locks #55Y-16Y do not open

nn

with lockkeeper present

R

Tanlay
e

AUXERRE Tonnerre until May 2

Ancy-le-Franc except 55Y-1Y automatic
& 2S-12S operated by the Locks Closed: Easter, May 1,
Cana
l July 14, Aug 15, Nov 1 (fee for
Niver du boat crew themselves.
nais opening on holidays, call
Cry 03.80.53.16.38 - Dijon VNF)
Montbard Minimum Depth: 1.80 meters
CHARTS: Minimum Height: 3.40 m,
Navicarte #18 & #31 Abbaye de Fontenay
3.10 m in Pouilly tunnel
Guide Vagnon #3 Min Lock Size: 38.5 m X 5.0 m
Semur-en- Venarey-les-Laumes
Guide Fluvial EDB #3
Auxois Pouillenay
MAP:
Michelin #238 & #243 Marigny-le-Cahouet

Pont Royal Plombieres

Pont-de-Pany
DIJON
Summit Tunnel
3,333 meters long Pouilly-
en-Auxois Gissey
378 m above sea level
1 hour transit time Longecourt
Vandenesse La Bussiere
Pont-d'Ouche St-Jean-de-Losne er
e Riv
n
BEAUNE Sao
Elevation, meters
300 Pouilly- To Rhone River
Pont Royal & LYON
250
200
Venarey
150 Montbard

100 Ancy-le-Franc
Tonnerre
50
St Florentin
0 0 KM 19 45 74 102 115 137 156 173 192 207 213 242 KM
LOCK NUMBERS start at the summit (Pouilly); count north to the Yonne and south toward the Saone.
#115 108 96 80 64 56 13 1Y-1S 20 38 50 55 76
Useful Addresses
Service Navigation VNF-DDE 21
57 rue de Mulhouse, 21000 DIJON
Tel +33(0)3.80.29.44.44
Comité Régional du Tourisme de
Bourgogne, BP 1602,
21035 DIJON Cedex
Tel +33(0)3.80.50.90.00
Fax +33(0)3.80.30.59.45
www.bourgogne-tourisme.com/
Office du Tourisme St-Jean-de-Losne,
Tel/fax +33(0)3.80.29.05.48
Sites On or Near the Waterways
Château de Tanlay; magnificent
chateau and golf course
89430 TANLAY
Tel/fax +33(0)3.86.75.70.61
Château d’Ancy-le-Franc; from the
Burgundian Renaissance ANCY
Grande Forge de Buffon; a beautiful
architectural complex and industrial
theatre. BUFFON
Abbaye de Fontenay; UNESCO
World Heritage Site. MONTBARD
Tel +33(0)3.80.92.15.00
Semur-en-Auxois; a compact village
of small light-colored red-roofed
houses atop a granite cliff, above the
ravine of the Armancon. 10km west
from the canal at Pouillenay.
Château de Commarin; inhabited by
25 generations of the same family, of
special interest are the interior
decorations, tapestries, paintings and
furniture. POUILLY-EN-AUXOIS
Tel +33(0)3.80.49.23.67
Château de Châteauneuf-en-Auxois;
fine example of medieval architecture
surrounded by a hilltop village
POUILLY-EN-AUXOIS
Tel +33(0)3 80 49 21 89
Clos de Vougeot; chateau amidst
vineyards of La Côte d’Or;
headquarters of Confrérie des
Chevaliers du Tastevin. VOUGEOT
Tel +33(0)3.80.62.86.09
Hospices de Beaune, a Self-Skippered Boat Rentals
Medieval hospital with multi- Self-skippered boats are available from
colored tile roofs, in BEAUNE. the bases listed below:
Town Base
Hotels Joigny locaboat plaisance
Abbaye Saint-Michel, Montée de Saint Migennes Connoisseur
Michel, 89700 Tonnerre tel St. Florentin Rive de France
03.86.55.05.99 fax 03.86. 55.00.10 Tonnerre Canal Concept
Hôtel-RestaurantChâteau de Montbard Rive de France
Malaisy,21500 Montbard Nicols
tel 03.80.89.46.54 fax 03.80.92.30.16 Venarey-les- Connoisseur
Château la Chassagne, 21410 Pont-de- Laumes
Pany tel 03.80.49.76.00 fax Pont Royal locaboat plaisance
03.80.49.76.19 www.chateau-la-
Pont Nicols
chassagne.com
d’Ouche
Hôtel Libertel Philippe le Bon, 18, rue
Plombières- locaboat plaisance
Sainte-Anne, 21000 Dijon
les-Dijon
tel 03.80.30.73.52 fax 03.80.30.95.51
St-Jean-de- Crown Blue Line
Losne H2O
Restaurants
Tonnerre, Le Saint-Père,
2, rue Georges Pompidou, Booking Agencies
Tel/fax +33(0)3.86.55.12.84 Bateaux de Bourgogne
1-2 Quai de la Republique,
Ancy-le-franc, l’Hostellerie du Centre, 89000 AUXERRE
34, Grande Rue, Tel +33(0)3 86 72 92 10
Tel +33(0)3.86.75.15.11 Fax +33(0)3 86 72 92 14
Chassignelles, Hotel de l’Ecluse 79, France Afloat
Tel +33(0)3.86.75.18.51 1 Quai du Port, 89270 VERMENTON
Tel/fax +33(0)3 86 81 67 87
Dijon, Thibert, 10, pl. Wilson, www.franceafloat.com/
Tel +33(0)3.80.67.74.64
H2O
St-Jean-de-Losne, Auberge de la Port de Plaisance,
Marine, Losne, 21170 ST-JEAN-DE-LOSNE
Tel +33(0)3.80.29.05.11 Tel +33(0)3.80.39.23.00
Fax +33(0)3.80.29.04.67
Events www.h2ofrance.com/
Salon Fluvial Pâques Boat,
Boat Show, late April of odd years
ST-JEAN-DE-LOSNE
Grand Pardon des Mariniers,
Blessing of the barges and the bargees,
June, ST-JEAN-DE-LOSNE
Rail Stations
SNCF trains stop at these stations:
Laroche-Migennes
St. Florentin
Tonnerre
Nuits-sous-Ravières
Montbard (TGV limited schedule)
Les Laumes-Alésia
Dijon (TGV full schedule)
 Camargue
Canal du Rhône à Sète

Canal Maritime at Aigues-Mortes

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Tour Rating: Pleasant, some picturesque sections.
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest,
little commercial traffic, slow currents. PARIS

The Canal du Rhône à Sète and le Petit Rhône are the connecting link between
the southwest of France (via the Canal du Midi) and the waterway network of
central and northern France (via the Rhône river.) This area is also a destination, LYON
offering several popular wintering ports as well as access to the natural areas of the
Camargue and to the Mediterranean Sea.

Canal du Rhône à Sète le Petit Rhône

Beaucaire to Sète, 98 km Arles to St-Gilles lock, 21 km
1 Lock (PK7, 4.0 m drop) 80X12.0m Draft 1.80 m, Height 5.00 m
St-Gilles lock (to Petit Rhône) 195X12.0m St-Gilles lock to sea, 38 km
Draft 1.80 m, Height 3.50 m Draft 1 to 3 m, Height 2.50 m Lyon-Arles 270 km
Rhône River (Grand Rhône)
Petit Rhône Avignon
Canal du Rhône à Sète Rhône
Canal d'Arles à Fos
Canal du Rhône à Fos (commercial traffic only) Tarascon
Beaucaire X
Connection to sea (obtain local information)
Nourriguier lock
Le Vidourle les Baux-
Bellegarde de-Provence
Canal Maritime
Lez River St-Gilles Arles
Canal du Midi Gallician St-Gilles
la Grande-Motte lock

Montpellier Lattes Aigues-

Mortes Camargue
margue
Lez Étang
Carnon Grau- Regiona
Regional
Palavas-
Pa de
du-Roi X
Fos
les-Flots Natu
Natural Berre
Frontignan Bouc
Pa
Park Golfe
f
Bouzigues les Saintes-Maries
les Saint
Saintes-Maries dee F
Fos
Mèze de-la-M
-la-Mer
Étang
tangg
Golfe du Lion Port-St.
rt-St. L
Louis-
Lou
Marseillan dee Sète du-Rhône
Tha
hau
au

H raultt
Hé
Agde

Mediterranean Sea
Canal du Rhône à Sète has only one lock, 4.0 meters drop, at PK7. The lock at Beaucaire is out of service, no entry from the Rhône.
The St-Gilles lock separates the canal from the varying levels of the Petit Rhône.
Agde Sète Frontignan Palavas Carnon Aigues-Mortes Gallician St-Gilles Bellegarde Beaucaire
Étang de Thau lock lock
PK 116 98 92 75 71 51 39 29 24 13 7 1

Charts: Maps: Contact:

Navicarte #11 Michelin # 240 Rhône à Sète: VNF, Service de la Navigation
Guide Vagnon #7 Season: pointe Caramus, 34110 FRONTIGNAN
Guide Fluviaux EDB #7 Open all year. Tel:+33 (0)5 57 46 35 90
le Petit Rhône: VNF, Service de la Navigation
quai rive droite du Rhône, 13200 ARLES
Tel: +33 (0)4 90 96 00 85
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Camargue by Tom Sommers

This guide is primarily about the Canal du Rhône à Sète, which to many waterway travelers is simply a
connection to get from the Rhône river to the Canal du Midi. It is that and, because there is only one lock,
a quick trip across the canal can be completed with only one overnight stop. But there is so much more to
see and do in this unique region that the more encompasing title seemed appropriate.

If you have one handy, take a look at a map of the Mediterranean coast of France: on the east, the ports
and beaches from Marseille to Monaco are known throughout the world; on the west, the coastline that
curves northeast for 200 kilometers from the Spanish border is less well known, but it is also lined with
beach resorts. In between is a vast undeveloped triangular area, the delta of the Rhône, known as the
Camargue. The waterways described in this report pass by the Camargue, and also offer access into its
wild and isolated natural areas.

Bouches de Rhône

The Rhône river is one of the major rivers of Europe, the only inland link between the Mediterranean Sea
and the English Channel/North Sea. If you look at map of the waterways of France, you will see a “tree”
of rivers and canals that make up the bulk of the inland waterway network. The dozens of waterways in
the north, from the mouth of the Seine at the left to the Rhine at the right, are the branches; the Rhône is
the straight, solitary trunk that brings boat traffic to the Med. Along the way it collects the flow of rivers
in the long north-south valley between the Massif Central and the Alps, beginning in the north near Dijon,
Burgundy. Twenty kilometers south of Avignon the final tributary, the river Gard, joins the mighty flow.
Just below that junction, at the twin towns of Beaucaire and Tarascon, the plain of the Camargue begins.

This is the top of the delta where the river splits to flow into the Mediterranean Sea. The administrative
département is named Bouches de Rhône, for there is more than one mouth of the river. Over the
centuries the river has changed its route many times, now splitting into two channels, le Grand Rhône and
le Petit Rhône. In the triangle between them is the 750 sq. km. “island” of the Grande Camargue. A
similar landscape west of the Petite Rhône is called la Petite Camargue. In 1970 this area became
protected as the Parc naturel régional de Camargue.

The fringes of the Camargue, along the two river paths, are bordered by rich farmland where corn, grapes
and rice are grown. If you travel into the interior by car, bicycle or horse, you will see the landscape
change dramatically as you move towards the sea. The sandy plain becomes a profusion of reedbeds and
lakes, changing from fresh to salt water as you get closer to the sea. It is a natural fusion of land, river and
sea.
Although you cannot take your boat into the center of the Camargue, and you will not see the landscape well
from the rivers, which are lined by high banks and dense woodlands, there are ports and moorings available
to leave your boat while you explore.
You are likely to see flamingoes by the tens of thousands, as well as hundreds of other species, common
and rare, from all of Europe and North Africa. In the summer you will also encounter plenty of
mosquitoes, be sure to bring a good repellent. Wind is often a significant part of life in the Camargue. The
Mistral wind blows down the Rhône valley to the sea, and at times the hot Scirocco wind blows north
from Africa, upsetting people’s tempers and sometimes bringing with it sand from the Sahara which
comes down as muddy rain.
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The Camargue is a land of colors; the blue waters, green vegetation and white sands are the home for
herds of white horses, black bulls and flocks of pink flamingoes. With the exception of a restricted natural
reserve in the lower center of the triangle, the park is not protected as a wilderness, so tourist
developments and farms have drained some of the land and caused the horses and bulls to be fenced in
behind barbed wire. In earlier times the bulls were managed by les gardians, the cowboys on sturdy white
horses, rather than fences. Now only the birds, foxes and wild boars can roam freely, but you will still see
the bulls and horses on some salt flats, as well as in the farmyards.

The Camargue breed is gentle, even-tempered

and agile, a small horse intended to be ridden.
But above all it is hardy, able to endure bad
weather and go without food, as for centuries
it has thrived largely on its own in a climate
that can be extremely hot, dry and windy. Its
broad hooves are suited for this soft, watery
land. There are many equestrian centers in the
park which offer trail rides on these horses as
the best way for visitors to see the back country.

The "wild" black bulls of the Camargue aren't so

wild anymore, but they remain a significant part
of the culture. The image of their head is often
seen on tourist guides and highway signs, and
bull-chasing events are common in the villages.
Meat from these fine animals is sold as AOC
Taureau de Camargue, a controlled appellation
similar to those used with wines. A popular local
dish is boeuf à la gardiane, a casserole of beef
cooked in red wine.

There is a wide selection of “local” wines, as the Camargue is located between the Languedoc, Provence
and Rhône Valley vineyards. Vineyards along the canal between Aigues-Mortes and Beaucaire are in the
Costières de Nîmes AOC, producing white, rosé and red wines; a small area at Bellgarde produces
Clairettes de Bellgarde white wine.
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Grand Rhône

Although some EuroCanals members have purchased or rented a boat already located in the south, or
have traveled inland from the Med, it is more common to start traveling the waterways of Europe from the
north. So most new visitors to the Camargue will be arriving south along the Rhône. Your first sights in
this region will be the chateaux at Beaucaire on the right bank and at Tarascon on the left bank. But it is
not possible to stop here for a visit, or to turn directly onto the Canal du Rhône à Sète as might look
feasible from a quick glance at the map. The lock that previously brought traffic from the Rhône onto the
canal has been out of service for many years, so it is necessary to travel via the Petit Rhône and through
the St-Gilles lock to return to the port of Beaucaire, which can be done in as little as four hours.

The Petit Rhône forks westward from the main river just above Arles. Unless you are in a hurry to get to
Beaucaire or ports further west, there is much of interest at Arles, one of the main towns of Provence,
with a rich history that extends from the 6th century BC when the Greeks established a port here. Roman
relics include a theatre that seated 7,500 and a huge open amphitheatre. Van Gogh created some of his
most famous works in 1888-89 while living in Arles.

Pleasure-boat ports at Arles are located across the Rhône at Trinquetaillle or beyond the first lock on the
Canal d’Arles à Fos. For a view over the entire Camargue, southwest to Aigues-Mortes and south to Les
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, take an excursion by car or bike 20 km northeast from Arles to Les Baux-de-
Provence, situated at the end of a ridge of hills extending west from the Luberon.

Canal d’ Arles à Fos is a route first cut by the Romans to link Arles with the sea at Fos, bypassing the
often-silted channel complex of the Rhône delta. Today it is only used for excursions, a 31 km dead-end
trip to a dam and sluiceway which prevents the entry of seawater.

The canal is accessed via a lock at Arles;

three kilometers ahead is the Montcalde lock,
which is left open, crossed by the well-known
Van Gogh bridge. The bridge is not used but is
kept in repair for the pleasure of visitors tracing
the footsteps of Van Gogh.

Beyond the bridge lie the bird sanctuary and marshes of Ligagneau. There is a turning basin at the end of
the canal if necessary. However, if you are visiting in the summer, take note of this warning from the
navigational charts: “No Shade between Mas -Thibert and Fos”. This is a wide-open landscape.
Canal de Rhône à Fos is restricted to commercial traffic only. A short connector canal between the
Grand Rhône and the ports of Fos and Bouc, it is a straight line east from the river, then a straight line
southeast from the closed end of the Canal d’Arles à Fos. Pleasure boaters headed for the Med should
continue downriver to Port-St-Louis-du-Rhône, to one of the five ports available there or on into the
Golfe de Fos.
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le Petit Rhône

Depending on your personal point of view, the scenery along the Petit Rhône can be described as stark,
desolate, monotonous or beautiful; probably a combination of all of these best describes it. Thick belts of
trees and reeds line the banks and for most of the distance there are high levees, so little can be seen of the
surrounding landscape. In the upper portion, from the Grand Rhône to the St-Gilles lock, there are no
villages and very few places to stop, in fact not a house can be seen from the water. Overhanging trees
prevent mooring to the bank, and although some mooring pontoons are available, the strong current and
varying water level makes it unwise to moor overnight. There are three highway bridges and one major
autoroute overpass, otherwise the feeling is of total isolation. The channel is clearly marked by red/white
and black/white posts set well out from the banks, avoiding shallows and slanting groins. The kilometer
distance is marked at the top of these poles, measured from Lyon. There is little reason to stop on the
river, as most travelers will be proceeding directly to the Canal du Rhône à Sète. The current in the river
can be significant, getting westbound boats to the lock in less than two hours.

Écluse St-Gilles is large, 195 X 12 meters,

but the change in level can be as little as
50 centimeters or as much as 2.50 meters,
depending on the varying depth of the
Petit Rhône. (Note the water mark on the
canal wall in this photo.) Exiting the lock
will bring you to the Canal du Rhône à Sète
in 300 meters, at a point approximately one-
third of the way along that canal. Turn
sharply back to the east for St-Gilles, Bellgarde
and the dead-end of the canal at Beaucaire.
Heading straight on to the west will lead to
Gallician, Aigues-Mortes and on to the coastal
cities and the Canal du Midi.

Vessels with shallow draft can consider following the Petit Rhône downstream to the sea or to Port
Dromar, 3 km upstream from the sea, for a visit to the town of Les Saintes Maries-de-la-Mer. A cable-
operated ferry crosses the river 8 km upstream from the sea; this is the limit of navigation for rented boats
(some companies may restrict their vessels from using the Petit Rhône altogether; check with the base
before you depart.) The seafront town is both drab and touristy, but is worth visiting to see the bull-
chasing events, the gypsy museum and annual gypsy pilgrimage (for the festival of the black madonna, on
May 23), or as a base for excursions into the Camargue park.

Another potential stop on le Petit Rhône is the dock at Mas des Baumelles, 26 km south of the St-Gilles
lock. From there it is 6 km, an easy flat bike ride to the ornithological park at at Pont de Gau, an excellent
spot to observe some of the birds of found in the Camargue.
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Canal du Rhône à Sète

The very popular port at Beaucaire is the eastern end of the canal, splitting the center of the town; a
footbridge spans the middle of the port above a long row of moored vessels of all types. The narrow
streets, lined with hidden courtyards behind arched gates and doorways, are filled with flowerpots on
nearly every window and terrace. It is a lovely place to spend some time, as well as a convenient base for
travels by car or bus to Arles, Avignon, or the Pont du Gard, an astonishing three-level stone aqueduct
built by the Romans over the ravine of the river Gard. And now you can walk to the two chateaux that
guard the Rhône; the castle ruins at Beaucaire provide a spectacular view over the river to the mighty
fortress at Tarascon. A bridge across the Rhône links the two towns.

Leaving Beaucaire, where there is a great deal to see and do, the traveling now becomes restful as the
canal heads westward in a series of straight-line sections that are featureless but pleasant, passing by
vineyards and agricultural fields. The only lock on the entire canal is 7 km west of the town. It is operated
by the boat crew but is automatic once the instructions are read and the button is pushed. It is a relatively
deep lock, 4 meters drop. The flat coastal plain through which the canal passes is sometimes surprisingly
interrupted by a rocky hill. One of these is at Bellegarde, an attractive small town worth the 1 km walk
uphill from the port.

The next town, St-Gilles, was a pilgrimage stop on the road to Compostela; there is a fine abbey church
with carvings dating from the 12th century and a unique spiral staircase. Crown Blue Line operates a port
and rental boat base here. It is another good location for day trips into Arles by car or bus.
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Gallician is located near several large lakes and marshes of the Camargue; guided trips can be arranged.
The cooperative wine cellar of the Costière de Nîmes vineyards offer tastings and sales of some of the
strong red wines of the region. If you haven’t yet stocked up the wine supply for the next part of the trip,
here is a good chance to do so while learning about the local wine -making process.

From Gallician you will be able to see the Tower of

Constance at Aigues-Mortes. This stretch is probably
the most pleasant of the entire canal; both sides of
the waterway are lined with beautiful marshlands.
The canal builders must have used the tall cylindrical
tower as an aiming point, for it is directly ahead and
seems to rise from the waters of the canal, becoming
more massive as you cruise toward it.
The tower is 33 meters/107 feet high; its walls are
7 meters /23 feet thick.

Aigues-Mortes means “dead waters”, named for the marshpools and lagoons near the medieval fortified
city. It was built in the 13thcentury to provide a Mediterranean port for the Kingdom of France, although
now it sits five kilometers inland due to silting of the coastline. There is a great deal of history to be seen
inside the walls, as well as a great deal of shopping. Unfortunately, far more visitors arrive by tourist bus
than by boat; and there are a lot of visitors that arrive by boat! A rectangle of thick ramparts with a
perimeter of 1.75 km surround the square grid of streets, an unusual plan for a medieval town, where you
would normally expect twisting, rambling streets.

If you can find mooring space at the port,

Aigues-Mortes is a good spot for a visit of
several days (or an entire winter season)
for there is much to be seen in the city
and it is easy to make excursions into the
natural areas of the Camargue.
One long wall of the tall stone ramparts
lines the pleasure boat harbor.
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The port is at the northern end of the Canal Maritime, a 6 km link to the sea at le Grau-du-Roi. The
eastern side of this canal is a large area of salt ponds and factories packaging sea salt. The “grau” is an
opening in the offshore bar that was ordered by King Henry IV, hence the “Roi”. This access to the sea
created a fishing port that thrives as the second largest trawler port in France. The town still has the
charm of a fishing village. You can walk to the old Espiguette lighthouse, and on past to one of the
famous nude beaches of the Med, Les Baronnets (there is plenty of beach available to avoid such sights.)
If you visit by boat, you can dock at one of the many restaurants on the canal, but overnight mooring will
probably not be possible, as the fishing boats dominate the port and pleasure-boat moorings are for year-
around tenants. It is an easy bicycle ride from the port at Aigues-Mortes.

Adjacent to le Grau-du-Roi is Port Camargue, a circular port for pleasure boats on the Med, surrounded
by some of the most fascinating hotel and apartment architecture in Europe. “Fascinating” as in the
fascination of a carnival freak show; built in strange shapes and at odd angles, these buildings sometimes
cause one’s jaw to drop in awe at the audacity of the designer. This port marks the western limit of the
undeveloped Camargue coastline, 75 kilometers from the mouth of the Grand Rhône (with only one point
of vehicle access, at Les Saintes Maries-de-la-Mer.) The coast and beaches of the Golfe d’Aigues-Mortes,
west of le Grau-du-Roi, are the “other Riviera”, a resort playground for the less wealthy.

Westbound small boats (draft 1.10 m, height 2.80 m) can avo id returning to Aigues-Mortes with a left
turn through the guillotine gates at the trawler port in le Grau-du-Roi for the 5 km shortcut up the river
Vidoule to the Canal du Rhône à Sète. This is another pleasant stretch of marshlands, however after
another 5 km on the main canal the scenery becomes that of modern coastal-resort development, in
various stages of completion. This section, with substantial highway traffic alongside, is a major change
from the marshes of the Camargue, but a good place to tie-up for some time spent on a sandy beach (or in
a casino.) Your first mooring might be at the transformer station near PK62 for a 3 km walk or bike ride
to la Grande-Motte. Or proceed further west to one of the several ports at Carnon or Palavas-les-Flots.

The river Lez crosses the canal at Palavas-les-Flots; watch for a strong cross-current here. In times of
high water, stop gates are closed on the canal. On the sea side of this intersection is Port Paul Riquet,
serving canal boaters; you cannot pass through to the sea, however, due to low bridges.

It is possible to travel 6 km upriver on the Lez

to Port Ariane, a new marina and residential
development which is the base for Locaboat
Plaisance rental cruisers. The marina is close by
the busy town of Lattes, which offers shops and
restaurants of all types.
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Port Ariane is 6 km away from the city of Montpellier, a major commercial and university center. There is
much to do and see in this modern, lively city, which can provide any type of service that may be needed,
as well as convenient transportation for crew or guests. The marina lies between the airport and the center
city, where TGV rail service is available to Paris. You can call a taxi to the marina or you can bike into
the city along the banks of the river Lez, arriving at the Esplanade de l’Europe. Walk west from there to
see the fantastic modern architecture of the Antigone residential and shopping complex and then through
the Arc de Triomphe to the Promenade du Peyrou. To paraphrase an old saying, this will be a walk from
the ridiculous to the sublime. The terraced walk at Peyrou is lined with 17th and 18th century mansions
and offers views of the Mediterranean. Montpellier offers many festivals throughout the year, including
music, dance, and ethnic film festivals.

Returning to the westbound route of the canal, the waterway is now a 15 km ribbon from Palavas-les-Flots
to Frontignan across salt marshes and open-water lagoons, however the canal is diked to separate its path
and water level from the surroundings. An unusual sight, at la Maguelonne, is the floating footbridge that
will swing open to allow canal traffic to pass; sound your horn if necessary. There is a mooring just west
of the bridge, near yet another Arc de Triomphe, this one in miniature. There is an abbey that can be
visited, and the beach nearby is more likely to be deserted than those of the towns just passed. Other good
stops for a quiet beach visit are at Mas d’Angouleme and at les Aresquiers; you will find mooring bollards
at both locations.

Just before Frontignan there is a passage to the sea (only for boats equipped and authorized for sea travel);
this is the first link to the sea since that at le Grau-du-Roi. And now you can easily see Sète, the city at the
end of the canal, which sits in front of a pine-covered hill that rises 182 meters (600 feet) above the sand
dunes and lagoons. The approach is past oil refineries, tank farms and other drab industry, but it is only 6
km further into the city.
Entry into Sète is via a well-marked channel that cuts across the corner of the Étang de Thau and makes a
sharp left turn into a passage blocked (for vessels taller than 2.50 meters) by two mobile bridges, the first
for the rail line and the second for a highway. Opening times depend on the current train schedule; check
on this in advance via telephone or VHF radio (the current numbers will be shown on an up-to-date
navigation chart.) Be aware of current or wind from the north that may push the vessel toward the bridge.
Once past these bridges, turn left immediately into Port St. Clair, across from the rail station.

Sète is a true Mediterranean fishing port, the style and even the southern
accent that you will hear is more of a Latin style than French. The spicy charm
of the Old Port, with its honey-colored houses and seafood restaurants serving
the enthusiastic and sometimes noisy locals, will make for an exciting visit. The
main summertime sport here is jousting from large wooden rowing boats. The
boats are elaborately painted and decorated; a crew of ten or twelve rowers propel
the boats toward each other as fast as possible, then the oars on the passing side of
each boat are quickly pulled in as the boats almost sideswipe. The jousters stand
atop a platform that extends high above the stern and use a long pole to knock their
opponent into the water. This is all accompanied by loud cheering from spectators
in grandstands along the quais. The losers look wet & chagrined, the winner gets
the acclamation of the crowd and lots of free drinks afterward.
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Étang de Thau (also called Bassin de Thau)

The Étang de Thau is separated from the sea by a low sandbar connecting Sète and Agde and is
classified as maritime waters, although it it regularly crossed by inland waterways craft. It is 33
km long by 9 km wide; the southeastern side is shallow and the constantly shifting sands must be
avoided, and the north-western side is filled with the steel racks of oyster farms, except for
passages into the three towns. Navigation is possible only in an unmarked channel down the
center of the lagoon, along the oyster beds.

The étang is peaceful most of the time, but strong winds can blow across from either side,
quickly whipping up the shallow waters. Be sure to check the forecasted conditions at a
harbormaster’s office before venturing out onto the open waters. There are no markers other than
a light at each end; do not attempt a crossing at night, however, as the oyster beds are an unlit
hazard. But don’t be frightened off by these warnings, just be cautious. Most of the time you will
wonder why such warnings are even mentioned, as the waters of the lagoon are still and
beautiful. If you are bound for the Canal du Midi, you must cross the lagoon to get there. Or you
may wish to visit the towns on the mainland shore.

Bouzigues is the center of the oyster and mussel breeding industry here with a museum
describing the growing techniques. It is a old and sleepy fishing village of whitewashed stone
houses and several restaurants. If you enjoy oysters, this is the source for this part of the coast.

Mèze is a pretty fishing village with a good port. The style and spirit here is similar to Sète, it is
a lively town of festivals and jousting. Along with the usual French street market, there is a crafts
market on Thursdays and an antiques market on Saturdays.

Marseillan is the largest of these towns, and is noted for its production of Noilly-Prat vermouth,
whose cellars are located right at the end of the port.

The western end of the lagoon, and the entrance to the Canal du Midi, is marked by a white &
red lighthouse at Pointe des Onglous. There is no access to the sea, you must proceed on the
canal to Agde, arriving in 8 kilometers at the unusual round lock with the port at its western side.
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Self-Skippered Boat Rental Bases Market Days
Arolles Marine (Nicols) Beaucaire: Thursday & Sunday
Port de Plaisance, 30127 BELLEGARDE Bellegarde: Friday morning
Tel: +33 (0)4 66 01 75 15 Fax: +33 (0)4 66 01 75 16 St-Gilles: Thursday & Sunday mornings
www.arolles.com/ Aigues-Mortes: Wednesday & Sunday mornings
One-way possible to Bram or Le Somail, Canal du Midi Carnon: Wednesday & Thursday
Palavas: Monday, Wednesday & Friday mornings
Camargue Plaisance Lattes: Sunday morning (near the port)
B.P. 8, 34280 CARNON Frontignan: Thursday & Saturday mornings
Tel: +33 (0)3 85 53 76 77 Fax: +33 (0)3 85 53 76 69 Sète: Wednesday & Friday
camargue.plaisance@wanadoo.fr Marseillan: Tuesday morning
www.camargueplaisance.com/ Agde: Thursday morning
One-way possible to Homps, Canal du Midi
Hotels
Connoisseur Agde: La Tamarissière
Tel: +33 (0)3 84 64 95 20 Fax: +33 (0)3 84 65 26 54 34300 AGDE
e-mail: Connoisseur@wanadoo.fr Tel: +33 (0)4 67 94 20 87 Fax: +33(0)4 67 21 38 40
www.connoisseurafloat.com/ tamarissiere@chateauxhotels.com
Base at Beaucaire Lattes: Mas de Couran
Route de Frejorgues, 34970 LATTES
Crown Blue Line, France Tel: +33 (0)4 67 65 57 57 Fax: +33(0)4 67 65 37 56
Tel: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 72 Fax: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 73 couran@chateauxhotels.com
e-mail: boathols@crown-blueline.com Arles: Hotel d’Arlatan
www.crownblueline.com/ 26, rue de Sauvage, 13631 ARLES
Tel: +33 (0)4 90 93 56 66 Fax: +33(0)4 90 49 68 45
tamarissiere@chateauxhotels.com
These hotels are shown at www.chateauxhotels.com/

Bases at St-Gilles and at Port Cassafières (10 km west Tourist Offices

of Agde, Canal du Midi) Arles: Office de Tourisme d’Arles
B.P. 21, 13633 ARLES CEDEX
Locaboat Plaisance Tel: +33 (0)4 90 18 41 20 Fax: +33 (0)4 90 18 41 29
B.P. 150, 89303 JOIGNY CEDEX www.tourisme.ville-arles.fr/
Tel: +33 (0)3 86 91 72 72 Fax: +33 (0)3 86 62 42 41
e-mail: info@locaboat.com Aigues-Mortes: Office de Tourisme d’Aigues-Mortes
www.locaboat.com/ B.P. 32, 30220 AIGUES-MORTES
Base at Port Ariane, Lattes Tel: +33 (0)4 67 20 24 12 Tel: +33 (0)4 66 53 73 00 Fax: +33 (0)4 66 53 65 94
www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr/
Nautic
Bassin de l’Écluse Ronde, 34300 AGDE Beaucaire: Office de Tourisme de Beaucaire
Tel: +33 (0)4 67 94 78 93 Fax: +33 (0)4 67 04 05 41 24, cours Gambetta, B.P. 61, 30301 BEAUCAIRE
www.nautic.fr/ Tel: +33 (0)4 66 59 26 57 Fax: +33 (0)4 66 59 68 51
One-way possible to Aigues-Mortes. www.ot-beaucaire.fr/

Rive de France Sète: Office de Tourisme de Sète

55 rue d’Aguesseau, 92774 BOULOGNE- 60, Grand’rue Mario Roustan, 34200 SÈTE
BILLANCOURT CEDEX Tel: +33 (0)4 67 74 71 71 Fax: +33 (0)4 67 46 17 54
rdf@l2m.fr www.ville-sete.fr/
Base at Aigues-Mortes Tel: +33 (0)4 66 53 81 21
Agde: Office de Tourisme d’Agde
Hotel Barges 1 Place Molière, 34302 AGDE
Saroche & Avenir Tel: +33 (0)4 67 94 29 68 Fax: +33 (0)4 67 94 03 50
Information at www.bargecompany.com/ www.capdagde.com/

Rail Stations Websites with general information about Camargue:

Frequent TGV trains from Paris/Gare de Lyon or
CDG airport to Avignon & Montpellier (limited TGV
service to Arles.) Connections to Arles, Sète & Agde.
Schedules available at www.sncf.fr/
www.camargue.com.fr/ & www.camargue.org/
Website of the Camargue Regional Natural Park
www.parcs-naturels-
regionaux.tm.fr/lesparcs/camaa_en.html
Canaux du Centre

Canal de Briare, the port at Coligny

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Canaux du Centre

Whether it's "thru to the Med" from the canals north of Paris or a leisurely holiday cruise, the five canals that are
jointly called the Canaux du Centre make up a well-used network of waterways that can efficiently speed your
north-south travel or offer experiences in history, nature and an open-air art gallery.

Refer to the map and elevation chart on page 8 to see how these canals connect to each other and to the adjoining
rivers. The end-to-end combination of the four major canals begin at a junction with the Seine just 60 km south-
east of Paris. The first leg south is made up of the Canal du Loing (49 km in length) and the Canal de Briare
(54 km) which take travelers from the valley of the Seine over the rolling hills of the Gâtinais region to the Loire
Valley.

The Canal latéral à la Loire (196 km), as its name implies, parallels the wide, sandy River Loire up the gentle
slope of the valley to headwaters south of Digoin. At Digoin the Canal du Centre (112 km), although reaching
to the northeast, continues the southbound route to a junction with the Sâone and then the Rhone rivers.

Also at Digoin, the dead-end Canal de Roanne à Digoin (56 km) branches south for an excursion to Roanne, a
pleasant town with port facilities that are popular for wintering of private vessels.

The reason for the existence of the Canal latéral à la Loire is obvious even from a photo of the Loire River; it is
wide, shallow and has many sandbars, making navigation difficult. The canal offers the controlled water depths
needed for reliable commercial barge transportation. But this route, when combined with the other canals in this
chain, is also a summit level canal, meaning that it allows travel from one watershed to another.

The Canal de Briare and the Canal du Loing were dug in the 17th and 18th centuries to provide a trade link
between the Loire valley and the Seine, connecting directly to Paris. Similarly, the Canal du Centre links the
upper Loire to the Sâone and Rhone valleys.

South From the Seine

The route starts at St. Mammès, where the smaller river Loing flows into the mighty Seine at its widest point.
Because of the mooring space available on the Seine and the central location, this town has long been home to
a fleet of commercial barges (a twin of Conflans-Sainte-Honorine, a similar place on the northwest of Paris.)
Now, with a reduction in business available to the family-operated barges, many of them are moored here semi-
permanently. A glimpse of life aboard can be seen while walking along the waterfront; across the street there are
several small shops and restaurants, a well stocked fishing store and Bateaux du confluent, a rental-boat base
with a good supply of canal charts, books, posters and assorted nautical "junque".

For a self-skippered cruise, a recommended starting point would be at Valvins, on the Seine about 10 km closer
to Paris, near Fountainebleau and Avon, where Seine et Loing Rivières offers a large fleet of "pénichettes" from
their base at Port Stephane Mallarmé. This location is a short rail trip from Paris.
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Moret-sur-Loing, just south of St. Mammès, has

numerous points of interest to attract visitors; the
town also offers several special events, including
heritage and music festivals, wine, cheese, crafts
and antiques fairs, as well as a sound-and-light
show. Its most famous attraction is its association
with the impressionist Alfred Sisley. Many of the
picturesque sights of the town, including the mill
and the splendid multiple-arched bridge, were the subjects of Sisley's paintings; several of these have been
reproduced in almost billboard size for display on the stone walls of buildings in the town center.
The pretty town of Nemours is next, 18 km south of Moret. Here it is possible to find an excellent mooring in
the center of town, near the historic bridge "pont de Nemours". As in the next city, Montargis, there are numerous
watercourses among the old stone buildings, most of them decorated with bright-colored geraniums.
Montargis is the largest city of the Loing-Briare
route; the canal passes directly through the
middle of the city, making for interesting sights
at locks and pedestrian bridges over the canal.
The photo at left was taken from La Passerelle
Victor Hugo, a steel arch footbridge constructed
by Eiffel in 1891; its elegant design is beautiful
to look at from below and the view from the top
of the arch is a delight; looking south, a lock
and another steel footbridge; looking north, as in
the photo, a lock and a side-canal flowing over a
dam near an ancient stone tower. Many small
non-navigable canals cross the city, thus it has
been called the "Venice of the Gâtinais".

A recommended port is in the small town of

Chatillon-Coligny, 23 km south of Montargis.
The modern docks and a new capitainerie with
full facilities make this a comfortable mooring.
The town is a medieval location surrounded by
ramparts, with a history of activities in the
religious wars of the 16th century. You can see
the beautiful house Le Paradis (Heaven) of the
Catholics and their nemesis across the street,
L'Enfer (Hell), the meeting place of the
Protestants.
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Canal history is prominently featured at Rogny-les-Sept-Ecluses, the seven locks of Rogny. This ladder of locks
was a remarkable feat of engineering when built during the reign of Henry IV and has now been replaced by a
more efficient but much less interesting chain of six non-contiguous locks. The village attracts visitors by canal
and automobile to see the stone construction and walk up the staircase of locks; a major fireworks show at the
end of July celebrates the extraordinary achievement begun by the engineer Hugues Cosnier in 1604. The
completion of this section of the canal in 1642 made the Canal de Briare the first summit-level canal. An
interesting sidelight to a visit to Rogny is to locate the small stone booth among the buildings along the eastern
side of Lock 18 right in the middle of town; inside you will find a gentleman sitting at a bank of modern
computers and communications systems that allow him to monitor the passage of boats through the locks of the
area. He remotely manipulates the valves and gates of the various locks so that each lock is ready for the arrival
of the next boat, greatly speeding the travel and convenience of this section.
The elegant Briare pont canal (canal bridge),
a 662-meter span over the Loire, is a sight
not to be missed, especially on the days
(usually Wednesday & Sunday) that hotel
barges cross just as the sun sets. It's a special
moment as they move very slowly across the
bridge, crossing high above the Loire in the
early evening light. Whether you are aboard
enjoying wine and sharing the moment with
your traveling companions or just watching
from the shore, it is a unique experience as
the big barges glide slowly and silently,
seemingly through the air, as they cross the
aqueduct.

The bridge was completed in 1896 and is a

work of art in its own right. Gustave Eiffel
ad a hand in the bridge's design, but only for
the stonework, including the four prominent
columns that mark the corners. The very
beautiful metal framework, best viewed from
a walk along the levee of the original canal
below, was the work of the waterways engineer Mazoyer; brass plaques at each end of the bridge attest to the
construction of the bridge by the company Daydé et Pillé. The architectural design is similar to the very beautiful
Alexander III bridge across the Seine in Paris

Briare was an important and prosperous town well before the construction of the bridge, as small boats would
make their way along the Loire to begin the transport of food to Paris. Here they would transfer their loads to the
much larger barges used on the canal system. The original system used locks at Briare and Chatillon-sur-Loire to
allow boats to cross at river level, but they were at the mercy of large variations in water levels and long delays
in making the crossing. The opening of the bridge high above eliminated these problems. The commercial port
that was used prior to the time of the bridge is now at very pleasant port de plaisance for private boats located at
the dead-end of the old canal, now a 2.6 km, 3-lock extension from the Canal de Briare.
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Up the Loire Valley

The character of the canal now changes considerably as the route turns south along the broad, flat Loire valley
on the Canal lateral à la Loire. The Loing/Briare section had a definite over-the-summit feel of work to be done
(an elevation change of 148 meters in 51 locks) but now the boat seems to be drifting along through the wide
open spaces of wheat fields and vineyards. The entire 196 km length of the canal rises only 104 meters in 37
evenly spaced locks. There is plenty of time to spot the dozens of species of local and migratory birds that
populate the canal banks. Keep an eye out also for terrapin, deer, rabbits, fox, badger or beaver in the woodlands
between the canal and the river. But don't hesitate to make a landfall and search out the local wines and cheeses.

The series of small towns along the side-by-side path of the canal and the river provide frequent stopping places.
A number of barge owners find this waterway a good place for a permanent mooring, connected to shoreside
water and power at a small piece of property that they have purchased or lease. A typical welcome here is told in
this comment by a member of EuroCanals:
I want to share with the group my recent experience in Beaulieu, an
exceptionally attractive stop. We arrived at the halte nautique designated
on the charts and were pleased to find water and electricity, not noted in
the guide. When we tied up, the young woman responsible for the site was
there to receive us and aid in the hook-up. Judi went up to the tourist
office in town and learned the whereabouts of all the important places and
was accompanied back to the barge by another young woman who was running that
office She offerred her assistance in any way and ended up driving me to a
nearby Walmart-type store. When Judi asked about restaurants, she went back
to her office, made calls, secured a reservation and then drove us to the
restaurant at 8 PM and arranged transportation for our return. She is
coming back to the boat this morning to take me to her office to access the
internet for whatever reason I might have. This is a charming and very
attractive little community that would like very much to attract more barge
traffic and which is doing all the right things to accomplish that. I give
it 5 stars and your readers might like to know that!! Incidentally, the
restaurant, Les Voyagers, was also way above average and properly and very
fairly priced. Jim Gieske "Joli Coeur"
There is an off-canal harbor at St Thibault across the canal from st Satur and the well-known wine and cheese
area at Sancerre. Coteaux du Giennois, Sancerre, and Pouilly wines are the perfect companions for the famous
goat cheese of the area, Crottin de Chavignol. Visitors can contact Aronde Sancerroise (tel 02.48.78.05.72), a
group of wine growers who offer a wine tasting trip to the cellars of members.

The town of Sancerre is prominently located atop a rocky hill; its narrow medieval streets with pottery shops
and art galleries lead to the Tour des Fiefs, where a climb up the 200 steps will open up a breathtaking view
across the vineyards and the valley of the Loire.
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Further south toward the larger city of Nevers, the canal crosses the Allier River on the second of the impressive
canal bridges along the Loire, the 343-meter Guétin bridge. While just slightly more than half as long as the
Briare bridge, the stone arches are an impressive sight as the Allier flows over a weir and rocky outfall below
the bridge. As boats approach the bridge southbound, the double lock at the north end looks somewhat daunting
because of the 9.23-meter (30.5 ft) rise.
The two locks and the one-way traffic
on the bridge can create long delays
during busy seasons.

From the port at Plagny a 5 km trip by foot, bike or taxi across the Loire leads to Nevers, known as the capital of
faïence. A "blue line" leads from the center of Nevers to the quarter where faïence artists create their brightly
colored glazed earthenware. The line then leads to the merchants' quarter, the Renaissance-style Palais Ducal
and on to the cathedral and the Eglise St. Étienne. In a factory beside la Porte du Croux, the Montagnon family
has carried on the tradition of ceramics for the last 350 years, the oldest pottery in France.

Salmon and shad swim up the river Loire as far as Decize to spawn; this is a favorite area for people to enjoy
river bathing as well. Here the Canal lateral à la Loire connects along a short stretch of the river Loire to the
Canal du Nivernais. Self-skippered boats are based here for obvious reasons; cruisers can travel in any of three
directions from Decize or, if time is available, make a complete circle around the western side of Burgundy. A
possible route would be south along the canals described above in this article, then north up the Nivernais, the
river Yonne and a short section of the Seine to return to St. Mammès.

A stop at the village of Garnat-sur-Engievre (27 km beyond Decize) will allow a visit to the spa village of
Bourbon-Lancy, 9 km to the east of the canal. This town of half-timbered and Renaissance wood houses within
a 15th century circular wall is situated atop a hill and overlooks the Loire Valley and the plains of the region. The
spa offers an opportunity for a relaxing diversion from canal travel. The Bourbon name is part of the history of
the nearby Abbaye des Sept-Fons, as the brothers Willem and Wicard de Bourbon, noblemen of Dompierre,
founded the abbey in 1132. It is built on the banks of the Loire and the Besbre, at the source of seven fountains.
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As the canal enters Digoin it crosses the third and shortest (200 meters) but still imposing canal bridge over the
Loire, a stone structure of eleven arches. The Canal lateral à la Loire ends at Digoin but the southbound route
continues on the Canal du Centre.

From a junction at Digoin, branching south and following the river Loire upstream to its headwaters, is the fifth
of the canals that make up the Canaux du Centre, the Canal de Roanne à Digoin (56 km.) This is not part of the
north-south through-route, as it dead-ends at Roanne. It is open now strictly for pleasure cruising and is unique
among the canals of France in that it is open continuously from April 1st through October 31; the lock keepers
at the 10 manual locks are present even on public holidays, which usually shut down travel on the other canals.

Here the Loire is a much smaller river and it is never far from the canal. It is more intimate and accessible while
just as beautiful as the more well known Loire downstream. A side-trip to Roanne from the main route, or a brief
self-skippered cruise on a boat rented at Digoin, is a pleasurable experience, especially if it is climaxed by
dinner at one of France's greatest restaurants, the Troisgros (3 Michelin stars, tel 04.77.71.66.97.)

The Canal du Centre winds through the beautiful hills of the Charolais region, following the contours of the
countryside. rising up over the summit at Montchanin (263 meters, 868 feet higher than our starting point at
St. Mammès) before a steep, winding staircase of locks down the other side to the junction with the river Saône
at Chalon-sur-Saône. The route was laid out by the engineer and architect Emiland Gauthey, who was quoted as
saying "long straight lines are particularly boring." Thus the helmsman is kept busy but travel is more enjoyable.
The area was a scene of great activity during the late 19th and early 20th centuries; coal mines, forges and
potteries were established along the canal. Barges loaded with coal, stone, tiles and other industrial products
crowded the canal. This commercial traffic is almost non-existent today, so even with the winding course and
many locks, cruisers can enjoy the lovely natural sights along the way.

Paray-le-Monial, the first town beyond Digoin, is an important pilgrimage destination for Christians. It was
here in the 17th century that the sacred heart of Jesus was revealed to the young Marguerite Alacoque. The
Romanesque basilica, begun in the 11th century, as well as the chapels of Romay and of the Colombière, draws
pilgrims from all over the world.

After dropping down the steepest part of the entire Canaux du Centre, the trip ends at Chalon-sur-Saône in the
deepest lock, 10.76 meters (35.5 ft.) For some travelers, it is not the end but just a part of a journey that continues
along the Saône, either south down the Rhone to the Mediterranean or north to the other canals of France and on
to Belgium, Holland or Germany. For others, holiday cruises on portions of the Canaux du Centre on a hotel
barge or on a self-skippered rental boat will be of interest.
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, some picturesque sections
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest
PARIS
Four canals skirt the western edge of Burgundy linking three major river
systems, the Seine, the Loire and the Saone-Rhone. Jointly named the
Canaux du Centre, it is the most efficient route between northern France
and the Med. A branch to Roanne is excellent for pleasure cruising.

To PARIS 60 km
river
Seine
Moret-
s-Loing St Mammes
Nemours
Overall Length, St Mammes to Chalon-s-Saone:
Souppes CANAL du LOING (not including Roanne a Digoin) 411.8 km
Montargis Canal open all year, lock schedule (varies) 0700-1900
Closed Dec 25, Jan 1, Easter Monday, Whit Monday,
Loi Chatillon-
May 1, July 14, November 1, November 11
re r
ive Coligny CANAL de BRIARE (Roanne a Digoin open every day April - October)
r
Rogny
Canal Length Locks Draft Height Lock Size
Briare
Loing 49.4 km 19 1.80 m 3.50 m 39.1 X 5.2
Chatillon-
sur-Loire Briare 54.1 32 1.80 3.50 38.5 X 5.2
(ext.) 2.6 3 1.20 3.50 30.0 X 5.2
Loire 196.1 37 1.80 3.50 38.5 X 5.1
Sancerre
Centre 112.1 61 1.80 3.50 39.5 X 5.1
St Satur
CANAL lateral a la LOIRE Roanne 55.6 10 1.80 3.50 39.5 X 5.1

er CHARTS:
Nevers Canal du Saone riv
Nivernais Chagny Navicarte #6
Guetin Chalon- Guide Vagnon #3
Decize Montchanin sur-Saone
r Guide Fluvial #2
rive Gannay MAP:
r Montceau-les-Mines
lie Michelin #237 Ile de France
Al
Digoin Genelard Michelin #238 Centre, Berry-Nivernais
Dompierre CANAL du CENTRE
Paray-le-Monial
Loir

CANAL de ROANNE a DIGOIN

e

Elevation
meters Roanne

250 Montchanin

Genelard
200 Paray-le-Monial
Digoin
Chagny Gannay
150 Nevers
Chalon-s-Saone
100 St Satur Rogny
Briare
St Mammes
50
Montargis

0
0 19 51 81 102 116 165 215 269 310 330 365 412
Kilometers
 roCana
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Useful Addresses
Voies Navigable de France
(Nevers), 2 rue Louise Michel, 58640
VARENNES-VAUZELLES – Tel
03.86.59.77.77, fax 03.86.61.28.96,
www.vnf.fr
Comite Departemental de Tourisme
du Loiret, 8 rue d’Escures, 45000
ORLEANS – Tel 02.38.78.04.04,
fax 02.38.77.04.12, www.tourismeloiret.com
Comite Departemental de Tourisme
de la Nievre, 3 rue du Sort, 58000 NEV-
ERS – Tel 03.86.36.39.80,
fax 03.86.36.36.63
Office de Tourisme de Moret-sur-
Loing, B.P. 15, 77816 MORET-sur-LOING
Cedex, Tel 01.60.70.41.66, fax 01.60.70.82.52
Shopping, Markets
Shops are generally closed Mondays
and every day from noon till mid-after-
noon (shop early.)
Towns with tous commerces (all
shops), listed by canal:
Loing Market Day
Moret-sur-Loing . . . . . . . Tues & Fri
Nemours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wed & Sat
Bagneaux
Souppes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun morning
Briare
Montargis . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wed morning & Sat
Montcresson
Chatillon-Coligny . . . . . . Fri morning
Rogny
Ouzouer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun morning
Briare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fri morning
lateral a la Loire
Chatillon-s-Loire. . . . . . . Thurs
Beaulieu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wed morning Cosne-
Cours-sur-Loire. . . . . . . . Sun morning
St. Satur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Thurs morning
La Charite-s-Loire . . . . . Sat morning
Nevers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sat
Decize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fri
Beaulon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4th Thurs
Dompierre . . . . . . . . . . . . Sat morning
Digoin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fri & Sun mornings
Roanne a Digoin
Digoin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fri & Sun mornings
Roanne
Centre
Paray-le-Monial
Genelard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sun morning
Ciry Le Noble
Montceau-les-Mines . . . . Tues & Sat mornings
Montchanin . . . . . . . . . . . Wed
EuroCanals Guide: Canaux du Centre
Sites off the canal
Gien - This beautiful town, whose
chateau overlooks the Loire, is home
to the Porcelain Museum.
Sancerre - A hill town famous for
dry wines and the nearby Chavignol
goat cheeses.
Magny-Cours - Racetrack for
Formula 1 and sports car racing.
Nevers - Fortifications and architec-
ture from the 10th to the 16th century.
Beaune - A medieval town and the
wine capital of Burgundy.
Hotels
Aigle Noir, 27 pl. Napoleon, 77300
FONTAINEBLEAU Tel 01.64.22.32.65, fax
01.64.22.17.33
Auberge du Pont-Canal, 19 rue du
Pont-Canal, 45250 BRIARE Tel
02.38.31.24.24, fax 02.38.31.92.12
Loire, quai Medine, 58000 NEVERS
Tel 03.86.61.50.92, fax 03.86.59.43.29
Le Cap, 27 rue Maufoux, 21200 BEAUNE
Tel 03.80.22.35.48, fax 03.80.22.76.80
Restaurants
Moret-sur-Loing, Auberge de la
Palette, ave. J. Jaures,
Tel 01.60.70.50.72
Montargis, Gloire, 74 ave. Gen. de
Gaulle, Tel 01.38.85.04.69
Nevers, Les Jardins de la Porte du
Croux, 17 rue Porte du Croux, Tel
03.86.57.12.71
Beaune, Michelin recommends
Bernard Morillon, 31 rue Maufoux, Tel
03.80.24.12.06
Digoin, Gare, Tel 03.85.53.03.04
Paray-le-Monial, Poste, N79 4 km,
Tel 03.85.81.10.72
Montceau-les-Mines, France, 7 pl.
Beaubernard Tel 03.85.57.26.64
Chagny, Rated as one of the best
restaurants in Burgundy, Lameloise, pl.
d’Armes, Tel 03.85.87.08.85
Roanne, Michelin 3-star Troisgros,
Tel 04.77.71.66.97
Notes: Take along highway maps such as
the Michelin #237 (Ile de France) and #238
(Centre, Berry-Nivernais) to check towns
and sites further off the canal than are
shown on the strip chartbooks of the canal,
necessarily limited to just a few kilometers
off the canal.
Self-Skippered Boat Rentals
Self-skippered boats are available from the
bases listed below; to contact the operators
or their agents, consult the listings in the
EuroCanals Guide or go to our website for
updates: www.eurocanals.com.
Town Base
Briare . . . . . . . . . . . . . Charmes Nautique
Les Canalous
Crown Blue Line
France Passion Plaisance
Briennon . . . . . . . . . . France Passion Plaisance
Chatillon-Coligny. . . Briare Nautique
Chatillon-sur-Loire . Locaboat Plaisance
Decize . . . . . . . . . . . . . Crown Blue Line
Digoin . . . . . . . . . . . . Les Canalous
France Passion Plaisance
Dompierre . . . . . . . . . Locaboat Plaisance
Fontainebleau . . . . . . Seine et Loing Rivieres
Gannay . . . . . . . . . . . Connoisseur
Montargis . . . . . . . . . France Passion Plaisance
Montbouy . . . . . . . . . . Nicols
Plagny (Nevers) . . . . Nicols
St. Mammes. . . . . . . . Bateaux du confluent
Hotel Barges
Hotel barges with itineraries on the Canaux
du Centre are listed below. They travel sec-
tions of the Canaux du Centre shown
below. To book travel on one of these
barges, contact their agents as listed in the
EuroCanals Guide or go to our website for
updates: www.eurocanals.com.
Barge Name Guests Canals
Bonne Humeur . . . . . . . . 8 . . . . . . . . Briare
Chanterelle . . . . . . . . . . . 24. . . . . . . . Briare/Loire
Joie de Vivre. . . . . . . . . . 10. . . . . . . . Briare
Le Bon Vivant . . . . . . . . . 8 . . . . . . . . Briare
Mirabelle. . . . . . . . . . . . . 24. . . . . . . . Centre
Nenuphar . . . . . . . . . . . . 12. . . . . . . . Briare/Loing
L’Etoile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 . . . . . . . . Centre
Booking Agencies (France)
Bateaux de Bourgogne
1-2 Quai de la Republique,
89000 AUXERRE
Tel 03 86 72 92 10, fax 03 86 72 92 14
France Afloat
1 Quai du Port, 89270 VERMENTON
Tel/fax 03 86 81 67 87
Loisirs Accueil Loiret
8 rue d’Escures, 45000 ORLEANS
Tel 02.38.62.04.88, fax 02.38.62.98.37
 Lot Amont
The river Lot, upstream section

Lot river at Cahors

(Pont Valentre)
The French are enthusiastic in their praise of “this little corner of paradise”:

“The Lot is probably the most fascinating navigable waterway (in France.) It is true that its flow may
sometimes frighten first-time boaters, but this river offers so much exceptional beauty, along with
internationally-known gastronomie... it is not to be missed.”*
“The Attractions: Very few locks; A beautiful setting; A wealth of picturesque villages; Regional food
and wines; Temperate climate.”**

What they are describing is the Lot Amont, the upper reaches of the river Lot in the Midi-Pyrenees
Region of southwest France. This is an isolated waterway, without a navigable connection to the
French network of canals and rivers (in fact this portion of the river is managed by the Département
Lot rather than the national authority VNF.) Cruising on the 64 kilometer portion opened for travel in
1990 is available in rented boats from three companies or on trailered boats. (The Lot Aval, the final
68 kilometer portion at the lower end of the river, connects directly with the river Baise and the Canal
lateral à la Garonne, and from there with the rest of the French waterways.

The Lot Amont may sometimes pose problems for safe navigation because of rapid changes in the
current and water level. Two tributaries, the Célé and the Dourou, can quickly bring a large volume
of water into the Lot during heavy rains. In addition, hydroelectric dams on the Truyère may release
water as part of their normal operations. Because the numerous dams help in managing the
waterflow, there is little danger to boaters, however travel may be blocked between closed locks for
12 to 48 hours. This shortens the available rental season and causes difficulties for both the renters
and the hire-boat base. For this reason, the major French rental-boat company Locaboat Plaisance no
longer offers boats from its Lot base at Luzech.

*“ Le Lot, entre beauté et gastronomie”, by E. Chimot, Fluvial magazine, June 2002

**River and Canal Boat Hire, Nicols 2001
 a
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended for experienced boaters
Navigation Difficulty: Requires a high level of care and attention

The river Lot passes through a spectacularly beautiful area of France

as it flows southwest from the Massif Central to a junction with the river Garonne PARIS
midway between Toulouse and Bordeaux. Dams and locks were built in the 17th
and the 19th centuries, but the waterway later became disused for freight transport
and the locks were not maintained. In 1990 the section shown here was restored
for use by leisure craft, although the connection with other waterways has not yet
Bordeaux
been completed; navigation on the Lot Aval is possible upstream from the LOT
Garonne junction only to Trentels, over 50 km downstream from Luzech. Toulouse

The river is subject to rapid flooding as rainwater rushes downstream from the mountains;
water level markers at the locks indicate the PHEN (Plus Hautes Eaux Navigable), the highest
navigable water level.
Grotte du
Pech-Merle
Mercues
Laroque- Vers St-Gery
Luzech des-Arcs Bouzies
Douelle
St-Cirq-Lapopie
Cahors Cregols

Non-navigable river Lot

Navigable river Lot Amont

Elevation, meters
30 Cregols
25 St-Gery
20 Bouzies
Vers
15
10 Luzech Cahors
Mercues
5 Douelle
0
PK 133 120 113 107 99 88 83 76 68
KM 0 13 20 26 34 45 50 57 65

River Lot Amont (navigable section)

Length: 64.3 km Season: April 1 to November 15
Number of Locks: 14 Locks Operate: 0800 to 2000
Minimum Depth: 1.00 meter Chart: Vagnon #7
Mimimum Height: 3.70 meters EDB #5
Lock Size: 30 X 5.0 meters navicarte #27
Speed Limit: 11.1 km/hr; Map: Michelin #235
5.5 km/hr near banks and
in diversion canals.
This is an ideal waterway for a week-long cruise; because of the limited access, cruising on a rental
boat is essential.. The locks are unmanned but easy to operate by the boat crew; there aren’t many of
them and they are well-spaced, so there won’t be any days of full-time locking. And stops can be
varied from city to village to natural sites. At the beginning of the cruise a hydroelectric dam backs up
a wide, smooth section of the Lot at Luzech, the downstream end of the navigable section..
In mid-July of 2002 (just before the heavy crowds of the “vacances” period hit the highways for the
south of France), we drove to Luzech to begin our trip upstream from the lower end of the Lot Amont.
The town of Luzech is small but busy, a good place for provisioning the boat. Below the dam, the river
loops tightly around the town, an almost complete circle. Driving through the middle of the centre ville
didn’t take long, it is just one long block. Unusual for French towns of this size, the main street was
very broad and included a pedestrian strip in the middle; I later found that this was a filled-in canal that
had joined the two ends of the river loop and bypassed the rocky falls. Too bad that this canal doesn’t
still exist, so that boaters could pass directly through this pleasant town.

One kilometer above the dam, we came to the rental boat base. The river here is especially wide and
tranquil; watch for the vineyards and chateaux that come into view beyond the green natural areas along
the banks. The first chateau to be seen is at Caix, the summer home of the queen mother of Denmark.

Across the river from the chateau is a peninsula enclosed by one of the many “U’ s in the river’s path,
filled with vineyards and the village of Parnac, local center of the Cahors wine trade. Moorings are
available on both legs of the U, at PK 129 and at PK 126, convenient while visiting the “caves” for wine
shopping. Another mooring is also available at PK 126, at a former lock in front of the interesting
Chateau de l’Angle . Just after passing by the 13th century Chateau Laroque, perched on a cliff above
the river, the skipper needs to pay close attention to navigation. The weir and lock at Cessac are ahead,
but approached via a curving channel between rocky shallows; pass through the center arch of the
former railway bridge, then follow the buoys which mark the channel. The lock is operated by the boat
crew, but it is easy enough to do and there is usually no time pressure from other waiting boats; anyway,
this is a leisure-travel waterway exclusively, so take as much time as required. The public mooring
pontoon for Douelle can be seen just ahead; don’t miss a stay at this beautiful and very pleasant village.
There are no facilities at this mooring, but on the opposite bank is the base of Crown Blue Line cruisers,
with full services (fee charged for non-CBL boats.)
Vineyards and chateaux can often be seen on the banks of the river
in the section downstream of Cahors.
In Douelle, visit the church (15th century), walk past the charming
houses, and enjoy the views of and from the narrow bridge over the
river. There are restaurants featuring the regional cuisine, especially
Le Vieux Douelle and La Marine, and several caves of Cahors wine.
 Directly across the river from Douelle is the Crown Blue Line
base; another possible mooring dock, this one with full facilities.
After Douelle, the river turns sharply left into a stretch of wooded areas and sheer limestone cliffs;
watch for glimpses of the ruins of several chateaux. Also watch for the marked locations of rocks and a
wrecked boat, and follow the channel slowly in to the next lock at Mercués. The chateau on the ridge is
now a luxury hotel and restaurant.
The approach channel coming into the Mercues lock is narrow
but well-marked by red and green floats.
 The lock must first be cleared of
swimmers!

This photo proves that there are no

lock-keepers, they would never
allow jumping into the lock. But it
also shows that these locks are not
as busy as those on other canals.
The public dock at Cahors, one of several possible moorings.
This one is near the center of tourist activities but doesn’t offer
any services nor very much privacy. For a full-service marina,
stop just beyond the lock at Port St Mary.
The ancient city of Cahors is surrounded on three sides by the river, a boucle of the Lot forms a
perfect U open only at the north; in medieval times there were three fortified stone bridges that
provided both access and protection. One bridge remains, the magnificent Pont Valentre, a UNESCO
World Heritage site. Boaters pass through a lock under the westernmost of six stone arches. Three
massive square towers, 40 meters tall, soar above the pedestrian and highway crossings still in daily
use after more than six centuries. Beautiful by day and illuminated at night, it is a spectacular and
memorable sight.

There are public moorings on both sides of the river upstream of the Pont Valentre; both offer great
views of this impressive structure; the right-bank mooring is convenient for visiting the southern end
of the old city and the Office de Tourisme. If you are here on a land-based visit and want to get out on
the river, tour boats depart from this location. There is another mooring further around the U at
Cabessut, across a bridge from the secteur sauvegardé (sector protected from modernization), where
narrow streets are filled with shops, restaurants and cafes as well as the Cathedral St Etienne and
several museums, including Maison Henri IV.

Quercy is the name of the area surrounding Cahors, a mixture of the arid Causses (limestone
plateaux) and the rich alluvial soils of the river valleys. The farms and vineyards produce regional
foods with the Quercy trademark such as farm lamb, melons, saffron and Coteaux de Quercy wines
along with the Cahors AOC wines known around the world. These products are offered by the
growers at at stands in the street markets of Cahors on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.

The bold red wines of Cahors were first exported in 1225, with a shipment down the Lot to Bordeaux
and on to London. 200 growers produce the ruby-red wines under the well-regarded Cahors quality
label. They are a good match for the truffles, foie gras and red meats commonly served in the region.
All can be enjoyed in the many restaurants, of all categories, that can be found in the city and in each
of the villages, or purchased in the markets for dining aboard or shipping home.
There are two different waterways along the Lot Amont: tranquil
stretches of wide pounds between the dams, or spectacular narrow
gorges with tall cliffs and rushing waterfalls. The city of Cahors is
the mid-point; to the west, the downstream section is a series of
still waters, in a wide, sloping valley of thickly wooded hills and
vineyards. To the east, the upstream section twists and turns
through a narrow valley with limestone cliffs that rise straight up
from the surface of the river, becoming more and more
tortuous as you approach St-Cirq-Lapopie.
Leaving Cahors, it is only two kilometers and one lock passage to the village of Laroque-des-Arcs. A
walking tour here will lead to many picturesque sights, including the panoramic view from the tiny
chapel of St Roch and a chateau des Anglais built of rocks set into a cleft in the tall cliff as a refuge for
English invaders during the Middle Ages. The next village, Lamagdelaine, has a well-regarded
restaurant, Chez Marco.

The river continues as a tight S-curve in a rugged gorge, passing by Vers and St Gery. Navigation here
requires close attention, particularly if meeting oncoming boats when exiting the lock at St Gery, there is
a small island in the already narrow lock cut. This is soon followed by the narrow passage through a
former weir at the disused Masseries lock, and then watch for the markings which indicate the proper
stone arch to select when traveling under the Pont SNCF (railway bridge.) All of this is part of the fun,
and the scenery makes the effort highly worthwhile.

And soon you arrive at Bouziés, a highly recommended stop for an extended visit. It is another beautiful
and charming village, again with several restaurants and a very impressive chateau des Anglais at the
other end of the narrow road bridge from the village. From this mooring it is possible to walk ahead to
the next lock on the towpath, which above Bouziés is no longer a simple gravel path alongside the river.
It has been cut from the limestone wall under the cliffs of Ganil, an open-sided square tunnel unique on
the waterways of Europe. It is, of course, no longer needed for use by horses towing the barges, but is
now an interesting hiking path from Bouziés to Ganil lock. And a protected walk if it happens to be a
rainy day.

Bouziés is also a good place for an excursion to the Grotte du Pech-Merle, by taxi or a strenuous bicycle
ride. The entrance to these ancient caves is atop the plateau, about five kilometers from the river. This is
an important prehistoric site, with over 600 ancient wall paintings. The number of daily visitors is
limited, so call or reserve online in advance.
The road bridge from the village of Bouzies
is one car wide.
One of several Chateaux des Anglais that can
be seen along the river. They were built as
refuge houses for English invaders.
One of the beautiful flowered houses
common in these villages.
The final leg of the cruise is alongside steep vertical cliffs to a
pleasant mooring at a wooded park beyond St-Cirq-Lapopie.
Before that medieval village is the Ganil lock, shown here.
The towpath from Bouzies to
the Ganil lock has been cut
from the base of the cliffs,
creating an open-sided tunnel.
St-Cirq-Lapopie, one of several designated the “Prettiest Village in France”,
is high above the river, built in irregular tiers of red-roofed houses topped by
a 16th century church and a chateau that was begun in 960.
The view from the terrace of one of the houses in the village.
A boat is entering the St-Cirq-Lapopie lock.
The port near St-Cirq-Lapopie; this is the upper end of the
Lot Amont. A fitting place to end a memorable cruise.
Navigation is halted at Cregols, 1 km ahead, by a weir with
no means of passage.
Useful Addresses Restaurants
Canal Authority: Cahors:
(This waterway is not managed by VNF, Le Balandre, 5 ave. C de Freycinet
the French national waterway authority.) Tel: 05 65 53 32 00
Direction Départementale de l’Équipement Lamagdelaine:
Quai Cavaignac Chez Marco, Le Bourg
46000 Cahors Tel: 05 65 35 30 64
Tel: +33 (0)5 65 23 60 60
Markets
Tourist Information: Luzech – Wednesday morning
Cahors Office de Tourisme Mercuès – Thursday morning
Place Francois Mitterand Cahors – Wednesday & Saturday morning
46000 Cahors (large evening markets July&August)
Tel: +33 (0)5 65 53 20 65 St-Cirq-Lapopie – Wednesday morning
e-Mail: cahors@wanadoo.fr
www.mairie-cahors.fr/anglais/ Self-Skippered Boat Rentals
Other websites about the Quercy region: Douelle:
www.quercy.net/ Crown Blue Line, France
www.quercyenfrance.com/ Tel: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 72
Fax: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 73
Rail Stations e-mail: boathols@crown-blueline.com
Cahors; trains from Paris or elsewhere in France connect www.crownblueline.com/
from Toulouse via Montauban USA office: Annapolis, MD
www.sncf.fr/ Tel: 1-888-355-9491
Fax: 1-410-280-2406
Hotels e-mail: crownbluelineus@att.net
Mercués: www.crownblueline.com/usa_web/en-us.html
Chateau de Mercués**** Cahors:
46090 Mercués Babou Marine
Tel: +33 (0)5 65 20 00 01 Port St Mary
Fax: +33 (0)5 65 20 05 72 46000 Cahors
Cahors: Tel: +33 (0)5 65 30 08 99
La Chartreuse*** Fax: +33 (0)5 65 23 92 59
Quartier St George e-mail: babou.marine@wanadoo.fr
46000 Cahors www.baboulene-jean.fr/
Tel: +33 (0)5 65 35 17 37 Bouziès:
Fax: +33 (0)5 65 22 30 03 Lot Navigation (Affiliate Nicols)
Bouziès: 46330 Bouzies
Les Falaises** Tel: +33 (0)5 65 24 32 20
46330 Bouziès Fax: +33 (0)5 65 31 72 25
Tel: +33 (0)5 65 31 26 83
Fax: +33 (0)5 65 30 23 87 Hotel Barges
e-mail: falaises@crdi.fr No hotel barges travel on the Lot.
www.crdi.fr/falaises/
Sights
Bed & Breakfast Cahors:
A list of Bed & Breakfasts (Chambres d’Hôtes) is Cathedral/Museums/Fortified Bridge
available on the Cahors website listed above. St-Cirq-Lapopie:
For more listings, and more information about each 13th-century village atop cliffs
establishment, go to: Bouziès:
www.gites-de-france.fr/eng/index.htm Grotte du Pech-Merle
Search for Keyword “Cahors” Reserve in advance at Tel: +33 (0)5 65 31 27 05 or online:
www.quercy.net/pechmerle/index.html
 Champagne;
Marne River
Canal lateral à la Marne

Marne river near Épernay

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Le Grand Axe is a French term used to describe the "axis" running east-west across France.
The route of the river Marne, Canal latéral à la Marne and the Canal de la Marne au Rhin
forms almost a straight line from Paris to Strasbourg. Along the way it connects with PARIS
nine waterways, offering several opportunities for north-south trips or circular cruises. Strasbourg
Str bo
b rg
It crosses through regional areas known worldwide: Brie, Champagne, Lorraine, Alsace St Jean-de-Losne
and the battlefields of World War I.

Waterways on the northern side of the axis are, except for the river Oise on the west of Paris,
the primary connections to all of northern Europe, from the English Channel ports east to
Belgium, The Netherlands and Germany.

Seine river
Moselle river:
Marne river
103 km to Germany border
Canal latéral à la Marne 345 km to Rhin river
Canal de la Marne au Rhin Canal de l'Aisne à la Marne:
35 km to city of Reims Rhin river:
Moselle river 636 km to The Netherlands border
259 km to Belgium border
Rhin river
Canal Houillères de la Sarre:
Canal de l'Est, br nord:
Epernay 77 km to Germany border
272 km to Belgium border
PARIS CHAMPAGNE
BR
BRIE Nancy
Vitry-le-Francois
STRASBOURG GERMANY
LORRAINE
ALSACE
Seine river jct with Marne river:
553 km to St Jean-de-Losne via Canal de la Marne à la Saône:
Canaux du Centre (Canal du Loing, Canal de 224 km to Saône river
262 km to St Jean-de-Losne Canal du Rhône au Rhin:
Briare, Canal latéral à la Loire, Canal de Centre)
274 km to St Jean-de-Losne
424 km to St Jean-de-Losne via Yonne river /
Canal de Bourgogne
218 km to Canal du Nivernais Moselle river / Canal de l'Est, br sud:
123 km to Saône river
(All distances are from the junction with the Grand Axe waterways.) 288 km to St Jean-de-Losne

On the southern side there are five possible waterway routes to the "Center of the French Waterways" at St Jean-de-Losne,
located at the junction of the Saône river with the Canal de Bourgogne and the Canal du Rhône au Rhin. These can be part
of a season-long circular cruise, covering some of the most beautiful and interesting sections of France.

Not all cruising need be months-long, however. Shorter trips from Paris to Champagne or from Strasbourg into Lorraine
are popular self-skippered rental boat possibilities. Even day trips from Paris, on your own vessel or aboard one of several
tour boats, should be considered. Our report begins on the next page with a "Tour of the Marne", short cruises from Paris.
 Can Tour of the Marne: Day trips from Paris
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Five kilometers south on the Seine from Port de Paris Arsenal, the river Marne arrives from eastern France;
the junction is just outside the perimeter of the city, at the suburb of Charenton. Here the Seine and the Marne
form a Y, with the landmark Chinagora restaurant
at the point. If you travel south from Paris by train,
this large pagoda-style building flashes by quickly
as the rail line crosses over the Marne; there is only
enough time for a quick glance at the river. It is the
same when leaving the city by car; barriers along
the autoroute and on the bridges hide the rivers and
the feeling is that of a not very pleasant section of
the commercial and industrial suburbs. It is entirely
different when viewed from a boat. You can discover
wooded riverbanks, quiet islands and beautiful homes
with gardens at the water's edge.

Much of the Marne is a twisting path, accentuated just before it merges with the Seine by a large boucle, almost a
full-circle loop of fifteen kilometers along the natural riverbed that is short-cut for through traffic by a manmade
basin and tunnel of less than one kilometer. There is a proposal to install a small lock at the Joinville dam, which
would allow pleasure-boat traffic to complete the boucle of the Marne and rejoin the river above the tunnel. The
project is opposed by the mayor of the city of St Maur-des-Fossés, a suburban city completely surrounded by the
15-km loop of the river.

Port de Paris
Nogent-
Arsenal
sur-Marne Le Perreux-
5 sur-Marne
PARIS Charenton
Joinville-le-Pont
Chinagora 2
1 3 Champigny-sur-Marne
Maisons-
Alfort

1 St Maurice lock 4 (The section of river between

2 St Maur lock & basin Creteil the Bonneuil bridge and the
St Maur-des-Fossés dam at Joinville is dotted with
3 St Maur tunnel (600 meters)
4 Creteil lock many small islands, rocks and
5 Port de Nogent fallen trees; depth may be less
than 1 meter. Use caution.
The dam is impassible.)
La Varenne

Port de
Bonneuil Chennevières
(freight vessels only)
 Can Tour of the Marne: Day trips from Paris
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Approaching the St Maurice lock, the first lock above the

Seine. The William, a peniche chargée (loaded barge) is now
leaving the lock. The waterline on the wall shows the rise,
1.54 meters. As is often the case with locks located on a
natural riverbed, the lock is adjacent to a weir. Overhead is
the arc of a new footbridge.
The St Maur lock (at left), leading to the tunnel, is 2 km
above the St Maurice lock. The rise here is 4.0 m. These are
both large locks, 11.40 m wide, which allows two barges
to fit side by side.
The sign shows the directions to Meaux and Epernay, to
the left through the lock and tunnel, or right to Port de
Bonneuil.

For a day cruise on the Marne loop, continue

past Port de Bonneuil; although caution is
necessary, most vessels can safely cruise as
far as Chennevières.
Several waterside restaurants are available,
such as Domaine Sainte Catherine adjacent
to the Creteil lock and the very colorful
L'Ecu France at Chennevières, shown here.
 a
uroC na EuroCanals Guide: Marne, Canal latéral à la Marne

ls
Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise Page 5
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest

The plan and the elevation chart show clearly the type of travel; the river PARIS
Marne is flat and twists through the countryside, while the lateral
Strasbourg
canal is straight but relatively steep, with frequent locks.
On the river, cruise and enjoy the scenery, but on the lateral canal plan to
spend more time locking than sightseeing.

Marne river Canal latéral à la Marne

Seine to Epernay, 183 km Dizy to Vitry-le-Francois, 67 km
18 locks 45X7.6m or more 15 locks 38.5X5.2m Marne river
Draft 1.80 m, Height 3.50 m Draft 1.80 m, Height 3.50 m Canal latéral à la Marne
Speed 12/15 km/hr Speed 6/8 km/hr Canal de la Marne au Rhin
Seine river
Canal de l'Aisne
Non-navigable Marne
à la Marne

Damery Hautvillers
Chatillon
Cumières Condé-sur-Marne
Chateau-Thierry Dormans Dizy
Epernay Châlons-en-
Nanteuil Crouttes Champagne
Nogent-l'Artaud
Meaux
PARIS La Ferté-sous-Jouarre
Condé-Ste-Libiaire
Nogent
Tunnel 290m
Tunnel 600m Lagny
Joinville Vitry-le-Francois
St Maur Charts: Maps:
Port-de-Bonneuil Navicarte #3 Michelin # 237 & 241 Canal
Guide Vagnon (none) Season: de la Marne
Guide Fluviaux EDB #8 Open all year, except Jan 1, Easter, à la Saône
Pentecost, May 1, Jul 14, Nov 11, Dec 25.
Elevation, meters
80
Vitry-le-Francois
70

60 Chalons

50 Condé-sur-Marne
Dizy
40 Epernay
Chateau-Thierry
30 La Ferté-s-Jouarre
Chalifert Meaux
20
St Maur
10

0
KM 0 34 46 87 128 178 196 212 244
PK 178 146 134 90 50 0/66 48 32 0
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Nogent to Meaux
A typical scene on the Marne, less
than ten kilometers from the Paris
city limit. River traffic is one-way
around three long, narrow islands:
Ile Fanac (?), Ile aux Loups
(island of wolves) and Ile d'Amour
(no translation needed!)
There are two pleasure-boat
ports in this section, at Joinville and
at Nogent. Although primarily for
the use of residents, if space can be
found these would be a convenient
base for visits to Paris. Nogent is a
pretty town with interesting sights.

However, the scene changes after rounding an S-curve beyond the last island. At Neuilly the route shifts from the
river to a straight-line bypass channel for the next nine kilometers, the Canal de Chelles. There is a pleasure-boat
port near the Neuilly lock, but it is isolated; Nogent is a better choice. It will take about two hours to traverse the
canal and the locks at each end, with little of interest in this section of gravel and cement operations and a major
freight railyard. The locks are now smaller, at 45 meters long X 7.60 m wide, just a bit larger than Freycinet
gauge (38.5 X 5.06 m.)

Back in the natural riverbed, another four kilometers brings us to Lagny-sur-Marne, a worthwhile stop for a visit
or an overnight at the Base Nautique. The center of town, surrounding Place de la Fontaine, retains its medieval
character, with gabled houses and arcades. Its most famous feature is its proximity to Disneyland Paris, 6 km
from the river. Of practical interest for arriving or departing guests, it is a short and easy trip by taxi to Charles
De Gaulle airport. Near Lagny the river has passed under the autoroute A104, which for me marks the end of the
Paris metropolitan area; the A104 route circles the city to form what might be called the "Outer Loop".
Unfortunately, just as the river is surrounded by open countryside the navigable route enters another bypass, the
Canal de Meaux à Chalifert. This canal allows a quick passage into the city of Meaux, but it skips past a very
scenic series of turns in the river as well as some attractive villages. The natural river can be followed upstream
for a few kilometers, to Annet-sur-Marne, however it then becomes non-navigable just as its path nestles at the
base of a wooded hillside. It is interesting that the Canal de l'Ourcq can be seen on a map as it follows closely
alongside the river Marne but actually it is a few hundred meters above it at the top of the ridge. At the village of
Trilbardou a pumping station lifts water from the Marne to augment the flow of the Ourcq, which primarily feeds
the Canal St. Martin and Canal St. Denis but also supplies water to wash the streets of Paris from the pound at
Bassin de la Villette, in the northeastern corner of the city.

The Canal de Meaux à Chalifert is entered from the Marne via two locks and a 290 meter tunnel, then there is a
12 km level reach to the exit lock at Meaux. Although straight-line bypass canals are never as pleasant as natural
river courses, there is a worthwhile stop midway at Condé-Sainte-Libiaire. This village is located at the junction
of the river Grand Morin with the Marne; a disused canal that previously brought barges filled with grains and
vegetables from the agricultural watershed south of the Marne can be seen just west of town. Nearby, the village
of Coupvray, perched on a hilltop with a view of the Marne valley, was the birthplace of Louis Braille. His home
is now a museum of 19th century furniture and memorabilia of his invention of the alphabet for the blind.
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Meaux
La Ferté-Milon

Lizy-sur-Ourcq
Canal de l'Ourcq is the canalized Ourcq river, which flows
108 km from the forests near La Ferté-Milon to Paris. Mary-sur-Marne
It can be a pleasant cruise through natural surroundings that,
above Lizy, can almost be classifed as wilderness. However,
locks are as narrow as 3.20m and depth is as little as 0.80m.

To Paris
(Bassin de la Villette)
24 km Meaux
La Ferté-
Claye-Souilly Poincy sous-Jouarre

Trilbardou

Pe
tit
Mo
Annet-

rin
sur-Marne
Tunnel
290m Marne river
Condé-Sainte-Libiaire Non-navigable Marne
Chalifert Coupvray Gr Canal de Meaux à Chalifert
and
Mo
rin Canal de l'Ourcq
Lagny-sur-Marne

Disneyland
Paris

Cruising east from Condé-Sainte-Libiaire, we cross over the Grand Morin on a pont canal (canal bridge) just as
the Marne returns from its meanders to the north. The canal and the river now run side-by-side along a 7 km path
into the city of Meaux. Here the river makes a tight 180 degree turn around a narrow point of high ground, with
the center of the city wrapped along the outside edge of the loop. Most of that loop is non-navigable, but the end
of the canal cuts through the high ground and we can turn left on the river for a few hundred meters downstream
to the docks that are conveniently located across an old stone bridge that leads to the center of the city.

From the docks and bridge, the view is dominated by the Gothic cathedral of St Etienne. That is the place to visit
first, along with the Palais Episcopal (Musée Bossuet); the bishop's palace and garden are surrounded by the old
ramparts. But then leave time to visit a fromagerie among the varied shops in the city center, for Meaux is the
capital of the Brie region. Brie de Meaux is the most popular version of this well-known cheese. Since we will
soon be in Champagne, that will be a fine companion to the wines that we will find there.

Perhaps surprisingly, the Paris area does not have a base for rental of self-skippered boats (except for some that
are poorly maintained, and thus not recommended.) Marne Loisirs at Meaux offers a small fleet of modern boats
from a base directly in front of the exit of the Canal de Meaux à Chalifert. A weeklong rental makes possible a
cruise back along the route described in this article to Paris and the Arsenal marina. It is now necessary to return
on the same route, although a proposed boatlift between the Canal de l'Ourcq and the Marne may someday allow
a circular, very scenic trip. Of course, a cruise in the direction we are headed is an equally popular choice. Marne
Loisirs operates a second base at Sillery (near Reims) for possible one-way trips through Champagne.
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Meaux to Crouttes
The next 44 kilometers, from Meaux upstream to La Ferté-sous-Jouarre, are along a twisting riverbed between
fields and patches of woods. The scenery is pleasant but unspectacular. It is an area of sand and gravel quarries,
a common source of freight for commercial barges, along with the grains produced in the region. The skipper
must pay close attention to navigation, as the pleasure of cruising a natural river comes with some hazards;
rocks and sandbars are prevalent on the non-navigable side of small islands and occasionally must be avoided in
the main channel; these are marked on navigation charts, which should always be monitored carefully. There are
few mooring quais and only one port, 9 km upstream from Meaux at Poincy. Most cruisers will simply spend a
full day cruising slowly through this section, enjoying the peaceful countryside.

At the end of that day, a good choice for an overnight is the small town of La Ferté-sous-Jouarre. A full-service
port is located behind a narrow island, or moorings along the bank are available, close to shops and restaurants.
Three kilometers south of the river at the town of Jouarre is a Benedictine Abbey that dates from the 7th century,
with additional buildings that were added to the complex in the 17th century. It is one of the oldest religious sites
in France.

For a mooring not far away but very isolated, proceed upstream another 5 km to a quai on the left bank, a few
hundred meters above the railroad bridge that crosses the river just above the Courtaron lock. No services, just
a very quiet overnight stop. This one of the most pleasant stretches of the entire river, as the path makes an S in
two long loops. The rail line passes overhead twice more, and then the vineyards of Champagne can be seen on
both sides of the river. This is a good place to begin a visit to the Champagne region; moor at the quais in
Nanteuil-sur-Marne or Crouttes and start to search out the small producers. That won't be hard, there are plenty
to be found between here and Epernay; the hard part will be in deciding which ones to visit, and then which to
choose for a purchase of a few bottles of "bubbly".
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The Champagne Region

For ninety kilometers from Nanteuil to the junction with Canal de

l'Aisne à la Marne, the river Marne curves through the Vallée de la
Marne between slopes covered with row upon row of vines. The
valley is one of the four regions of the Champagne AOC 1 where,
in carefully defined small areas, 15,000 growers operate vineyards
totaling 34,000 hectares2 in 260,000 specific parcels.
The four regions of Champagne are:
Vallée de la Marne, alongside the river Marne from Nanteuil past
Château-Thierry and Epernay to Tours-sur-Marne. Pinot Meunier, a
black grape with white juice, dominates the vineyards here, followed
by Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
Montagne de Reims, a plateau of rolling hills with vineyards stretching
north of the Marne from Epernay to beyond the city of Reims. The main
grape is Pinot Noir, followed by Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay.
Côte des Blancs, a line of hillside vineyards extending south from
Epernay, produces wine almost exclusively from Chardonnay white
grapes, the champagne known as "Blanc des Blancs".
Côtes des Bar is a separate region fifty kilometers further south (southeast of the city of Troyes), across the hills
from Bar-sur-Seine to Bar-sur-Aube. The primary grape is Pinot Noir. This region can best be visited by car if
you are following the course of the Seine upstream (see the EuroCanals report "Seine; The River Seine from
Sea to Source".)

Within these regions there are several dozen large, well-known Champagne houses; close to the Marne are
Moët et Chandon, Perrier Jouet, De Castellane, Pol Roger, Demoiselle, and Mercier, all open for visitors and
each just a short walk from the Port de Plaisance at Epernay. Further east, at the edge of the AOC on the lateral
canal, Laurent-Perrier is located at Tours-sur-Marne (mooring here is not as convenient as at Epernay.)

In the small towns along the river and canal, signs point in almost every direction to Champagne producers.
Most are tiny; 5,000 or so of the 20,000 grape growers in Champagne also sell their own wine (the majority of
growers sell their grapes to the large houses.) Around 60% of these wineries take their grapes to a cooperative,
where it is made into basic Champagne for them, bottled and returned to the grower with the grower's label.
The remaining 2,000 make their own Champagne, and sell it direct from the cellar to the consumer. These can
be wines that are blended from several nearby vineyard parcels or even a single grape variety from a single
parcel. In either case, the wine will express the style of the village. Searching out some of these cellars can make
a cruise along the Marne something special and memorable. 3

1) Appelation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) is the term for the French national administration program that defines and controls the
production of certain beverage and food products that are marketed under an Appelation, a specific name. As related to wine, it
specifies the land areas and grape varieties allowed as well as rules regarding pressing and aging.

2) A hectare is a measurement of land area; 100 hectares = 1 square kilometer 1 hectare = 2.47 US acres
Thus 34,000 hectares = 84,000 US acres

3) An interesting and informative website is at www.champagnesdevignerons.com. It includes a detailed map showing the four regions.
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Nanteuil to Châtillon-sur-Marne Page 10

This is a very scenic and pleasant stretch of the river,4,5 as it winds among thick woodlands, vineyards and small
villages. The GR14 hiking trail roughly parallels the southern side of the river, some distance back, from
Nanteuil until it turns uphill and away from the river at Nogent-l'Artaud. Some excellent views of the river
valley and the surrounding vineyards can be found on this trail.

Charly-sur-Marne offers an excellent stopping-place (albeit without electricity) in the center of this scenic
section, at a very pleasant stone quai in the countryside between the lock and a backroad bridge, just a short
walk from shops in the village or for access to the GR14 trail, at the village of Pavant. For a halte with more
services, continue on 3 kilometers to Nogent-l'Artaud; this charming village and Chézy-sur-Marne, each with
centuries-old churches, are both worth an excursion on foot or bicycle.

East of the next lock, at Azy-sur-Marne, the river is relatively straight for several kilometers on the approach
to the small city of Château-Thierry. The narrow streets and old mansions invite a walking tour up to the ruins
of the château. The St Jean gate bears an inscription honoring the liberation of the town by Joan of Arc in 1429.
This is also an area of more modern history, the site of the first American offensive of World War I in 1918;
a memorial to the American soldiers can be seen for a great distance, perched on a hilltop west of the city.

Upstream of Château-Thierry the river continues to be very scenic as it curves past a series of pleasant small
villages. Most are set back a short distance from the river, and good moorings are infrequent. One good halte
can be found at Jaulgonne, a suitable base for further excursions into the vineyards and wineries of the
surrounding villages.

The same can be said of Dormans, a larger town with a swimming pool and riverside bathing beach near the
mooring quai. The town is dominated by a castle from the era of
Louis XIII: it is also worthwhile to visit the Chapelle de la
Reconaissance, built in 1920 to commemorate the two
victories of the Marne.

Above Dormans the loops of the river straighten somewhat and the river valley is broader. Small boats may
be able to find dockage at the nautical club in Port-à-Binson; if so, you will find a pretty town, although water-
skiers will be plentiful in the summer months. Directly across the river and up the hillside is Châtillon-sur-
Marne, a medieval fortress town which boasts a large statue of Pope Urbain II. The base of the statue holds an
interior staircase, allowing visitors to ascend for a breathtaking view of the vineyards.

4) This portion of the route is one of the few areas in France where a road closely follows the path of the waterway for a significant
distance. If you are using this report for a trip to Champagne by automobile or bicycle, refer to Michelin map #237 (or similar higway
map.) Take A4 east from Paris, exit onto N3 to la Ferté-sous-Jouarre, then follow the north side of the river on D969 to Château-Thierry,
then D3, D320 and finally D1 to Epernay.
5) Additional information regarding this section of the river can be found at www.escalechampagne.com/anglfluv.html
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Damery, Cumières & Hautvillers
A visit to each of these three villages
is a must for those who wish to see
the vineyards and visit the cellars of
a few of the small growers.6
At Cumières, 1 km west of the junc-
tion of the river Marne with Canal
latéral à la Marne, you will find
R Geoffroy, a small but venerable
récoltant-manipulant (grower-
producer.) 7
The vineyards of René and Jean-
Baptiste Geoffroy are biologique,
no pesticides or herbicides are used.
The wine is produced by the fifth
generation of the family on this land.

It may be possible to visit

Cumières from a mooring
directly in front of the town,
as the barge Domingot has
done. If not, it is only about
6 km by road from the port
at Epernay, or 3 km from
the halte at Damery.

Three kilometers northeast of Cumières, beyond the trees in this photo, is Hautvillers, the site of the Benedictine
abbey at which Dom Pérignon developed the "Champagne" method in about 1700. It is worth a visit here to see
the monk's funeral stone at the church, and to tour the streets of this village of wineries, artisans and shops, many
of which are marked by beautiful wrought-iron signs.
6) From The New York Times, Nov 12, 2003: "Incidentally, if you wonder how to differentiate a bottle of grower-producer Champagne
from the others, it's easy. Each bottle of Champagne has a two-letter code, usually at the bottom of the label, that describes the house.
The grower-producers are indicated by RM, for récoltant-manipulant. They must grow at least 95 percent of the grapes that go into the
bottle. All the big houses have the initials NM, for négociant-manipulant. The négociants, who dominate Champagne sales, purchase a
large portion of their wine and grapes, as well as growing their own. Two other codes you might see are RC, for récoltant-coopérateur,
and CM, for coopérative de manipulation. These account for lesser Champagnes made by cooperatives."
7) For details regarding R Geoffroy Vineyards, , go to:
www.linux2.mailclub.fr/sites/vigneron-independant.com/annuaire/desc_adherent.php?numadh=608
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Epernay, Canal latéral à la Marne
Epernay is five kilometers off the direct through-route, but well worth a stop for provisions and visits to the
"avenue de Champagne". This is an actual avenue in the center of the city, just one block away from the Marne.
Side-by-side are the champagne houses of Moët et Chandon, Perrier Jouet, Pol Roger and Demoiselle. Another
two blocks south is Mercier, and one block off the avenue is De Castellane.

Under the city are 110 kilometers of wine cellars dug into the chalky soil; Moët et Chandon alone has 27 km of
cellars with millions of carefully-stacked bottles of champagne. Extensive tours of these cellars, as well as those
of Mercier and De Castellane, are available; check at the Office of Tourism for details and schedules. Nearby on
avenue de Champagne is the Museum of Champagne and Archeologie. The port de plaisance is an easy walk
from these sites, as well as all services.

Canal latéral à la Marne

The river Marne is not navigable upstream of the southern edge of Epernay. This portion of the Upper Marne,
from Epernay southeast to Vitry-le-François, was replaced in 1845 by a straightline lateral canal. Except for
several pleasant villages, this canal is featureless and the scenery is much less interesting than that of the
Champagne country. The crew is kept busy with frequent locks as the topography rises to the Langres plateau.
Just past a quarter of the distance along the lateral canal, as the last sights of vineyards drop behind, there is a
tee-junction with the Canal de l'Aisne à la Marne, which leads north to another city of Champagne, Reims.

It is this first section of the canal, from

Dizy to Condé-sur-Marne, that is the most
pleasant; short visits are recommended to
the villages of Ay, Mareuil-sur-Ay and
Tours-sur-Marne.
A very nice port can be found at Mareuil-
sur-Ay, shown at right.

Inspector Maigret
The ambience of a trip along the Canal latéral à la Marne from Dizy to Vitry-le-François can be enhanced by
first reading one of Georges Simenon's stories of the cases of Inspector Maigret. Published in French as
Le Charretier de la 'Providence' (1931) and later translated under the English title Maigret Meets a Milord,
it is not only a clever murder mystery but also gives a fascinating picture of the time when some commercial
barges were still pulled by teams of horses and the chemin de halage (towpath) meant exactly that, rather than a
roadway for the use of lockkeepers. A stable is provided for the horses onboard the barge; the charretier
(carter or horse-driver) often beds down there as well.

The plot takes place at the lock that connects the lateral canal to the river near Dizy, with excursions into nearby
Epernay and an interesting "chase" along the canal as Maigret rides a borrowed bicycle on the towpath to catch
up with a barge crew that includes his prime suspect. He finds the barge after riding 67 km (42 miles), all the
way from Dizy to the canal junction
1 at Vitry-le-François, where some important action takes place. The descrip-
tions of lockkeepers and bars at places on the canal can give a modern traveler some sights to look for while
cruising, while imaging the pipe-smoking Inspector struggling to pedal along the towpath with some difficulty
in his trademark woolen suit.
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Canal latéral à la Marne
Looking southeast up the Canal latéral à la Marne from its junction with the Canal de l'Aisne à la Marne at
Condé , it is an absolutely straight line, 12 kilometers long, to Châlons-en-Champagne.8 There are a couple of
little jinks as the waterway passes through Châlons, then another 12 kilometer straightaway to the Saint-Germain
lock.9 The last 20 kilometers are a series of slight curves, then the eastern end of the canal is reached at Vitry-le-
François.

The locks on this canal are automatic, under surveillance from a control station at Lock #9 in Châlons. The staff
at this station will expect continuous progress through the locks, so if you wish to tie up for a meal or an excur-
sion into a village be sure to notify them.

The villages along the canal each have their own church with its special history, but are otherwise unremarkable
and are bypassed by most canal travelers. The canal is easily completed in two days, or one long day for fast
travelers. An overnight stop at Châlons will be most memorable if dinner is at the restaurant Pré St-Alpin in one
of its two glass-roofed dining rooms serving traditional French dinners or, at the same location, Cuisine d'à Côté,
where regional food (Cuisine Champenoise) is served in an attractive old kitchen.

Châlons offers tourists a Gothic cathedral as well as several churches and museums, along with public buildings
built in classical architecture. If you haven't yet had enough of the champagne cellars, visit the caves of Joseph
Perrier, Albert Le Brun, Duval-Leroy, Rappeneau or Laurent-Perrier.

Vitry-le-François is a busy commercial town, the center for the surrounding agricultural region and for canal
traffic; a new port de plaisance welcomes travelers. It is a good stop for maintenance and supplies before depart-
ing east to Strasbourg or south to St Jean-de-Losne.

8) On some maps, Châlons-en-Champagne is shown as the name Châlons-sur-Marne; it is the same place.
9) Longtime readers of my articles may think that I have a bias against straight waterways; it is true! Straight waterways, especially
those that are absolutely straight, are very boring, even though they do get you to your destination sooner, I suppose. But canal trips
are more about pleasurable cruising than destinations. And with most vessels it seems that just as much steering , if not more, is
needed to travel in a straight line than to follow the curves of a natural path.
USEFUL ADDRESSES

Waterway Authorities Barge Training Course – Champagne Cruise

Seine junction to Canal de Chelles:
Subdivision de Joinville
Ave Pierre Mendès France
94344 JOINVILLE LE PONT CEDEX
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 11 71 80 Fax: +33 (0)1 45 11 71 99
Canal de Chelles to Nanteuil-sur-Marne:
Subdivision de Meaux
BP 176 – 77108 MEAUX CEDEX
Tel: +33 (0)1 60 24 76 76 Fax: +33 (0)1 64 33 57 16
Nanteuil-sur-Marne to Epernay:
Subdivision de Château-Thierry
17 route de Château-Thierry
02400 MONT SAINT-PERE
Tel: +33 (0)3 23 70 28 33 Fax: +33 (0)3 23 70 36 38
Tam & Di Murrell’s “Boating for Enthusiasts” offers
several days cruising in Champagne aboard their Dutch
barge “Friesland” for up to four persons (two double guest
cabins.) This is a great introduction to cruising the
continental waterways for anyone from the new and
inexperienced to the highly competent boater or sailor.
They concentrate on the practical hands-on operation of
the barge, while also introducing the CEVNI rules of the
road, proper VHF radio techniques and the syllabus for the
French PP certificate. At the same time, you will enjoy a
barge cruise that will give you a true taste of France and
the barge-cruising lifestyle.
Long Weekend Courses in September; 4 nights aboard,
Thursday-Sunday, in Champagne, based at Épernay.
Contact tamanddi@compuserve.com
Tel/Fax +44 (0)208 569 0500 mobile +33 (0)6 03 84 50 33

Canal latéral à la Marne: Day Trips from Paris on a tour cruise

Subdivision de Châlons-en-Champagne Two companies offer full-day round trips (usually
BP 256 - Chemin de Barrage weekends only) from Paris up the Seine and onto the
51011 CHÂLONS-EN-CHAMPAGNE Marne River.
Tel: +33 (0)3 26 65 17 41 Fax: +33 (0)3 26 65 57 57 Paris Canal calls theirs Croisiere de la boucle de la
Marne, a cruise around the loop of the Marne to the end of
Canal de l’Ourcq: navigation at Chennevieres, passing through the large
Section des Canaux de la Ville de Paris locks of St. Maurice and Creteil.
6 quai de la Seine Paris Canal, 19-21, quai de la Loire, 75019 PARIS.
75019 PARIS Tel +33 (0)1 42 40 96 97
Tel: +33 (0)1 44 89 14 14 Canauxrama’s excursion is similar except that, after
passing through the St. Maurice lock, the route cuts across
Tourist Offices the narrowest point of the loop and rejoins the Marne for a
City of Meaux trip further upstream to Perreux.
BP 227 – Hôtel de Ville Canauxrama, 13, quai de la Loire, 75019 PARIS.
77107 MEAUX CEDEX Tel: +33 (0)1 42 39 15 00
Tel: +33 (0)1 60 09 97 00 Both of these trips are along the wooded banks of the
Marne as it winds through several pleasant suburbs
www.ville-meaux.fr/ southeast of Paris. Each Marne cruise includes a two-hour
stop for lunch ashore; the boat will dock adjacent to a
Office de Tourisme d'Epernay et sa Région restaurant, or passengers can bring their own “pique-
7, avenue de Champagne nique”. (On all of the cruises described in this article,
BP 28 - 51201 EPERNAY CEDEX coffee, soft drinks and water are available for purchase on
Tel: +33 (0)3 26 53 33 00 Fax : +33 (0)3 26 51 95 22 the boat.)
www.ot-epernay.fr/
E-mail: tourisme@ot-epernay.fr
Websites
Comite Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne
Comité Régional du Tourisme de Champagne-Ardenne
www.tourisme-champagne-ardenne.com/
www.champagne.fr/
Vignerons Independant de France
www.vigneron-independant.com/
Rail Stations Les Champagnes des Vignerons
Main rail lines connect from Paris to Epernay and
Châlons-en-Champagne, enroute to Nancy & Strasbourg.
www.champagnesdevignerons.com
Möet & Chandon
www.moet.com/
 Canal de la Marne au Rhin

Canal de la Marne au Rhin at Xouaxange

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Le Grand Axe is a French term used to describe the "axis" running east-west across France.
The route of the river Marne, Canal latéral à la Marne and the Canal de la Marne au Rhin
forms almost a straight line from Paris to Strasbourg. Along the way it connects with PARIS
nine waterways, offering several opportunities for north-south trips or circular cruises. Strasbourg
Str bo
b rg
It crosses through regional areas known worldwide: Brie, Champagne, Lorraine, Alsace St Jean-de-Losne
and the battlefields of World War I.

Waterways on the northern side of the axis are, except for the river Oise on the west of Paris,
the primary connections to all of northern Europe, from the English Channel ports east to
Belgium, The Netherlands and Germany.

Seine river
Moselle river:
Marne river
103 km to Germany border
Canal latéral à la Marne 345 km to Rhin river
Canal de la Marne au Rhin Canal de l'Aisne à la Marne:
35 km to city of Reims Rhin river:
Moselle river 636 km to The Netherlands border
259 km to Belgium border
Rhin river
Canal Houillères de la Sarre:
Canal de l'Est, br nord:
Epernay 77 km to Germany border
272 km to Belgium border
PARIS CHAMPAGNE
BR
BRIE Nancy
Vitry-le-Francois
STRASBOURG GERMANY
LORRAINE
ALSACE
Seine river jct with Marne river:
553 km to St Jean-de-Losne via Canal de la Marne à la Saône:
Canaux du Centre (Canal du Loing, Canal de 224 km to Saône river
262 km to St Jean-de-Losne Canal du Rhône au Rhin:
Briare, Canal latéral à la Loire, Canal de Centre)
274 km to St Jean-de-Losne
424 km to St Jean-de-Losne via Yonne river /
Canal de Bourgogne
218 km to Canal du Nivernais Moselle river / Canal de l'Est, br sud:
123 km to Saône river
(All distances are from the junction with the Grand Axe waterways.) 288 km to St Jean-de-Losne

On the southern side there are five possible waterway routes to the "Center of the French Waterways" at St Jean-de-Losne,
located at the junction of the Saône river with the Canal de Bourgogne and the Canal du Rhône au Rhin. These can be part
of a season-long circular cruise, covering some of the most beautiful and interesting sections of France.

Not all cruising need be months-long, however. Shorter trips from Paris to Champagne or from Strasbourg into Lorraine
are popular self-skippered rental boat possibilities.

The section from Paris to Vitry-le-François was described in Part I of this guide. The following pages continue from Vitry
east to the cities of Nancy and Strasbourg, and a connection the the Rhine river.
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A Two-Summit Canal Route
Built between 1838 and 1853, the Canal de la Marne au Rhin was planned for a specific purpose, to connect the
waterways of Paris and northern France to Alsace, the Rhine river and Germany. While a majority of waterways
follow river valleys, this route required carving a new east-west canal across the hills and the valleys of the
north-flowing Meuse, Moselle and Rhine rivers. Several means were used to complete the 311 km canal path,
including 152 locks, four tunnels (one of them almost five kilometers long), a 22 kilometer section in the river
Moselle and an inclined-plane boatlift that raises or lowers vessels 45 meters (150 feet). Although the entire path
is known under a single name, there are two distinct halves, west and east of Nancy, each with its own summit.

Most canal cruisers consider this route to be a means of getting from here to there, rather than a sightseeing
destination in itself. This is particularly true of the western half, between Vitry and Nancy. The scenery along
the canal is not unpleasant, but neither is it of special interest. Between Vitry and Bar-le-Duc the canal has been
laid out in a series of straight-line reaches through broad open fields of grains, following generally alongside the
river Ornain, although often the river is a few kilometers away. After Bar-le-Duc the canal stays closer by the
the river, crossing over it several times in a valley between rising hills; the last twenty kilometers before the
summit are quite twisty and make for pleasant cruising.

But "cruising" is not what this canal is all about, it is not the Canal du Nivernais or the Canal du Midi. There are
only a few stops to be noted and recommended. The preoccupation for travelers is to operate the locks and stay
with the work at hand. This focus on proceeding through the locks is made necessary in some sections by their
automation and in others by central control of the manually-operated locks; in both cases vessels are expected to
continue directly on to the next lock, and not stop unexpectedly for sightseeing or meals.

Traffic between Vitry and the tunnel at the summit is controlled from a station at Bar-le-Duc. Operators there
will group vessels according to demand and the current state of water supplies available to operate the locks, the
latter having become a critical problem in recent years. It is essential to call the station (03 29 79 13 03) before
16:00 on the day before entering this part of the canal to discuss your plans and select potential stopover points.
Then, of course, any change in plans while enroute must be made known to the officials.

The 9 km summit pound provides an opportunity to sit back and relax (although the skipper still needs to tend to
steering needs) and marvel while being towed through the Mauvages tunnel by an electric tug which hauls itself
along a chain lying on the bed of the canal. The passage through the tunnel lasts 90 minutes (at a slow speed,
3.25 km/hr); a fee is charged. There are two trips per day in each direction; confirm the current operating
schedule at the VNF offices or with lockkeepers.

On the eastern side of the summit the canal descends rapidly down a scenic valley to enter the relatively broad
valley of the river Meuse. The Canal de l'Est branch nord merges from the north at Troussey and the combined
canals are one for the next 20 km, until they both meet the river Moselle at Toul; there the Canal de l'Est turns
upstream (south) and the Canal de la Marne au Rhin turns downstream (to the east at this point) for 23 km before
leaving the Moselle at Nancy, to begin the second half of the route, crossing the Lorraine plateau and the Vosges
mountains to Strasbourg.

The eastern half of the canal mimics the western half; the first part of the route is uninspiring and climbs through
a constant series of locks, then there is a period of quiet, level cruising, in this case for 33 km, before dropping
down into Alsace along one of the most beautiful and enjoyable sections of waterway in all of France.
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, some picturesque sections
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest

The Canal de la Marne au Rhin is a purpose-built waterway, rather than a canalization PARIS
of a river already used for transport. The purpose was to provide a connection from
Paris to Strasbourg; to do so meant carving a canal route cross-country. Traffic eastbound STRASBOURG
BOURG
G
from the Marne river valley at Vitry climbs steeply through 70 locks in only 86 kilometers
to the summit tunnel, itself almost five kilometers long. From there it descends quickly
to cross the valleys of the Meuse and Moselle rivers, then another climb to a second summit
on the Lorraine plateau, ending in a 33 km level stretch through an area of shallow lakes.
The Arzviller boatlift near the border of the Alsace region replaces 17 disused locks; it is
followed by Locks #18 to 31 through the northern Vosges mountains and across the
Alsatian plain to the city of Strasburg and the Rhine river.

Canal de la Marne au Rhin

Canal de la Marne au Rhin
Vitry-le-Francois to Strasbourg, 311 km
Canal latéral à la Marne
137 locks 38.5X5.05m Moselle river
Draft 1.80 m, Height 3.50 m Rhin river
Speed 8 km/hr
LORRAINE
Canal Houillères ALSACE
Canal de l'Est, de la Sarre
Lutzelbourg
br nord Frouard
Lagarde Saverne
Bar-le-Duc
Vitry-le- Gondrexange
Troussey NANCY STRASBOURG
François Toul
Canal de la Marne
Maps: Canal du Rhône
à la Saône
Charts: Michelin # 241 & 242 au Rhin, br nord
Navicarte #17 Season:
Elevation, meters Guide Vagnon #12&13 Open all year, except Jan 1, Easter,
200 Guide Fluviaux EDB #4 Pentecost, May 1, Jul 14, Nov 11, Dec 25.
Mauvages tunnel
4875m long Gondrexange
Arzviller
Rechicourt

150 Troussey
Saverne
Lagarde

100 Toul
NANCY
Bar-le-Duc Frouard
STRASBOURG

50
Vitry-le-
François

0
KM 0 46 86 92 110 130 166 209 222 229 255 269 311
PK (Kilometer Post) markers follow the same sequence as the actual kilometer distance shown above, except in the Moselle river section
between Toul and Frouard, where PK 132 to 154 on the canal are replaced by PK 369 to 347 on the Moselle.
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Marne Valley to Mauvages Tunnel
After reading the previous two pages, you might think that a trip east from the Marne valley at Vitry-le-François
would entail a steady uphill climb to "get it over with". But that is not possible, for there must be one or two
overnight stops. As a reminder in planning a trip, consider these approximations: from Vitry to the summit the
distance is 86 km and there are 70 locks. At the slightly-illegal speed of 8.6 km/hr, it will require ten hours of
traveling; to this must be added the time spent entering a lock, waiting for it to fill and then exiting the lock. In
the best case this time will be at least 10 minutes, so the 70 locks will consume over 700 minutes, about twelve
hours. The best that can be expected is two long days, or three days of 8 to 10 hours each.

So there will be opportunities to stop overnight. One of the pleasures of cruising in France is the ability to tie-up
overnight almost anywhere at a lock or along the banks of the canal, and the vessel should be provisioned to
allow this. But there are several worthwhile stops in this section of the waterway, at simple and typical French
country towns.

There is a pleasant halte nautique at each of the villages of Bignicourt and Pargny, both within the first 19 km
and 7 locks from Vitry. After that there are no formal mooring quays until a halte at Fains-les-Source and a full-
service port three kilometers further on at the city of Bar-le-Duc. The latter is an important regional trading city
with a great deal of history, dating from a chateau in the upper town (Ville Haute) built in 954, to World War I,
when the canal brought men and equipment to the siege at Verdun, reached overland on a highway beyond the
range of German artillery.

From the unattractive port area in Bar-le-Duc walk uphill on the steep streets and many steps, through the 12th
century gate, to the Renaissance quarter. Parts of the original chateau remain, among many 16th and 17th century
houses. The wide-ranging subjects of the Barrois Museum include history and artifacts from Gallo-Roman times
to the current popular arts and traditions. There is a wide panorama of the valley from Belvedere des Grangettes.
And, of course, full commerce services and restaurants are available.

The next potential mooring is at the village of Tronville, 10 km and 10 locks beyond Bar-le-Duc. But another
4 km and 5 locks on, at about the two-thirds point of the uphill section, there is a full-service port in the larger
and more historic town of Ligny-en-Barrois, capital of the Counts of Luxembourg. The beauty of the area was
praised by Victor Hugo and, although it has become more industrialized in the 150 years since his visit, it is a
town of beautiful stone towers, cobbled streets and museums of history.

Above Ligny, at PK 68.5, watch for the canal crossing over the river Ornain, on an old stone aqueduct with five
arches; if you have a chance, disembark for a short walk to view the bridge from the river level. This is the at the
first curve in a long series which follow closely along the river, with a set of 15 locks in 15 km, mostly in wood-
lands. Every two or three kilometers there is a beautiful small village closeby the canal, at each turn of the valley.

Then, if you are not on schedule to proceed directly through the tunnel, there is a quiet halte and a chance
to stretch your legs at Demange-aux-Eaux. Alternately, there is a 3 km dead-end arm of the canal to the silos at
Houdelaincourt, however this mooring is intended for commercial barges and there is little reason for pleasure
craft to go there.

The Mauvages tunnel is next, 281 meters (927 feet above sea level), 4,875 meters long. Boats pass through in a
convoy assembled by the lockkeeper at Demange. The schedule varies, in summer months eastbound passage is
at 6:30 and 13:30, westbound at 9:30 and 16:30.
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Mauvages Tunnel to Nancy
On the eastern side of the summit tunnel the canal drops down through a straight but natural valley for 19 km to
an aqueduct over the river Meuse and a junction with the Canal de l'Est branche nord. Other than a waiting quay
near the tunnel, the next stop with services is at Void, 12 km and 12 automatic locks below the tunnel. The town
is unremarkable other than being the home of a regional office of VNF, the waterway authority. And after Void,
a pun: for the next nineteen kilometers, the canal is "Void" of locks.

So sit back and relax for a short while as the canal crosses the level plain of the Meuse valley. The schedule is
no longer controlled by the canal operators, nor is it necessary to travel in a convoy. You are free to stop as you
please, other than minding the open hours of the less-frequent locks.

One stop here might be at the port at Pagny-sur-Meuse, as a base for a bike or taxi ride to Vaucouleurs, twelve
kilometers south on the (non-navigable) Meuse river. It was here on May 13, 1428, that Joan of Arc came to see
Governor Robert de Baudricourt after hearing voices from heaven, to convince him that only she could save the
kingdom, despite her two handicaps of being only 16 years old and a girl. Some of the walls and towers of the
medieval castle remain, including the Porte de France, the gate through which Joan left to fulfill her mission.

Although the paths of the rivers Meuse and Moselle are close at this point (both flow north, into the North Sea),
their watersheds are separated here by a low ridge, pierced by the canal through an 866 meter tunnel. Traffic in
the tunnel is alternating, controlled by lights, for vessels under their own power. Immediately after the tunnel is
a side-by-side pair of locks, a unusual sight on this canal. This is immediately followed by a set of ten locks that
lead to a very nice port (Port de France) at Toul, a highly-recommended stopover point.

Toul is an ancient fortified city, surrounded by massive stone ramparts. There are two historic churches,
St Genoult (built 10th-15th centuries) and St Etienne cathedral (built 13th-16th centuries). The cathedral is large
and an impressive sight when seen above the ancient ramparts. This area is a little-known wine region midway
between the world famous Champagne and Alsace regions; Côtes de Toul is an AOC appellation for this small
area of vineyards between the Meuse and Moselle valleys.

At Toul the canal turns away from its original path and enters the Moselle river. The route is now quite different,
for this is a major river, with very large barges and relatively huge locks (185X12m, five times as long and more
than twice as wide as the 97 locks that are behind on this canal.) But there are only three locks on the Moselle in
this section, the river is wide and the banks are heavily wooded; cruising here is relaxed and very pleasant. Near
the midway point, a 4 km straight reach is broad enough that ski boats, jet skis and sailboats are authorized; the
well-marked central channel is for through-traffic.

Although the Moselle is almost straight between Toul and Frouard, there is one full S-curve at Liverdun. The old
village is perched on a hillside surrounded by the loop of the river. There is a pleasure-boat basin tucked into a
verdant setting off the river, well protected from the wash of passing barges. This is a good alternative to the
urban location of the ports at Toul and Nancy, and not far from a golf course, an unusual opportunity on a canal.
My personal recommendation is an overnight stop at Toul, another at Nancy, with a rest at Liverdun between.

It is a 5 km straight run east to the last large lock, at Pompey, after which the waterway arrives at a tee; the river
turns north and the canal turns south to the Frouard-Clevant locks, a large and a small lock side-by-side. Straight
on from the exit of the lock is a dead-end commercial port area, canal traffic turns quickly to the right into the
Jonction lock, returning to a canalized path south to the city of Nancy.
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* Carrefour = Intersection Page 7

The Canal de la Marne au Rhin uses the Moselle river between Toul and Frouard.
PK (Kilometer Post) markers follow the same sequence as the actual kilometer distance except in this section,
where PK 132 to 154 on the canal are replaced by PK 369 to 347 on the Moselle.
Canal de l'Est, branche Nord
Canal de la Marne au Rhin
Moselle river
To Liege 386.4 km Canal de l'Est, branche Sud
from Troussey P = ports
To the Rhine at Koblenz: 346 km
Liverdun from Frouard
P P
Frouard P Malzeville
P Port St Georges
Tunnel NANCY P
Troussey 866 m To the Rhine at Strasbourg:158 km from Frouard
Foug P

P Toul
P
To Paris via the Marne: 380 km Richardmenil
Neuves-
from Toul Maisons
Port de France

To Corre (Saone river) 121.5 km

from Neuves-Maisons

This major intersection of the waterways boasts at least nine ports (shown above as P) for cruising pleasure boats.
The most convenient and popular, each offering full services, are:
Port de France at Toul, bordered by gardens and adjacent to the ramparts of this medieval fortified city.
Up to three Freycinet barges can be accomodated among 50 smaller barges and boats.
Port St Georges at Nancy, a short walk from Place Stanislaus and all center-city commerce and museums.
Barges up to 25m accomodated, Freycinet barges use the adjacent Bassin St Catherine.

Although Nancy is the center of an important manufacturing region and is surrounded by rather dismal suburbs
and urban neighborhoods, the city center is of interest and has some elegant Art Nouveau architecture around the
Place Stanislas, which may be the finest square in
France. Classical 18th century buildings with
elaborate gilded cast-iron gateways and lanterns
surround a broad plaza. Nearby are stylish shops
and elegant restaurants, and many museums, in
particular Le Musée de l'École de Nancy, and the
Ducal Palace, all within a short walk from the
downtown ports.
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Nancy to Gondrexange

Setting out eastbound from Nancy, you soon pass through several side-by-side locks in a thoroughly industrial
area, capped by the massive Solvay factory at Dombasle-sur-Meurthe (the river Meurthe flows north alongside
and under the canal, later joining with the Moselle near Frouard.) The canal turns to a generally northeast path
and twists across the open plain of Lorraine. There are few landmarks except the frequent sight of one-street
villages marked in advance by their sharp-pointed church steeples.

The first village with a port is Einville, 27 km from Nancy. There are few shops
and restaurants here; the best dining and sightseeing experience is to call
Michel Million and ask to be picked up for the 12 km ride to his luxury restaurant
Chateau d'Adomenil at Rehainviller, a little past the town of Lunéville.
(Telephone 03 83 74 04 81)

Lunéville itself is worth visiting, for the beautiful gardens at the Parc des Bosquets Chateau d'Adomenil
behind a historic chateau, built in 1703 by Duke Leopold in the fashion of Versailles. Much of the chateau was
destroyed by fire in 2003, however a rebuilding and restoration project is in progress. The town is also famous
for the manufacture of faience, a museum and factory store are open to the public at Faiencerie de Lunéville-
St Clement.

For travelers who may wish to set up a camp, there is a very nice mooring in the countryside at Parroy, adjacent
to a campground on a small lake, Etang de Parroy. If you have brought along a canoe, kayak, windsurfer or
small sailboat, this is a good place for some recreation.

A few kilometers further east is the town of Lagarde, where there is a full-service port and a rental-boat base of
Rive de France. This port has also been used by hotel barges that travel between here and Strasbourg, a clue to
the scenery and interesting sights to be found ahead. Lagarde is typical of the small towns of rural Lorraine. If
the port is too crowded in season, press on another six kilometers to a charming open-country mooring at Port-
Ste-Marie. Not far from there is Bataville, an unusual sight: a factory town built in the midst of a forest, for the
workers of the Bata shoe factory.

Just east of Bataville lies a large area of lakes on the summit plateau of the northern Vosges mountains. The
canal originally used a chain of six closely spaced locks to make the final climb to the summit, but in the 1960's
these were replaced by a single lock with 15.70 meters rise. The lock is approached across a wide but shallow
pond, where you must be sure to stay in the channel. The pond is used to allow the large volume of water in the
lock to be drained quickly, without flooding the locks downstream. Entering the lock in the eastbound direction
is somewhat daunting, boats come in under a raised guillotine gate and the sidewalls are more than three times
as high as the lock is wide; the upstream gate is normal size, but sits high atop a third wall of concrete. In spite
of this relatively huge size, the lock fills (and drains) just as quickly as the typical lock of only one-sixth of the
rise, due to special engineering design. Floating bollards mean it is not difficult to hold the vessel in place, just
get a loop around the bollard and hang on for the ride up.

At the exit of this lock you must pass carefully through one of the two narrow slots of the previous Lock #1. And
then relax, you are on the 33 km level summit pound, ready for a pleasant, scenic cruise into the mountains. The
first 10 km are across the open waters of Etang de Gondrexange, where there may be some crosswind but other-
wise it is simply a matter of steering between low banks that separate the canal from the lake. At the eastern end,
Canal des Houillieres de la Sarre heads off to the north; there is a well-equipped port 2 km away on that route.
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Gondrexange to Niderviller Page 9

NOTE: The following pages, describing a cruise from Xouaxange to Strasbourg, are also published as part of
the EuroCanals Guide: Alsace - Lorraine Est.

On arriving in this area from the west, a good

place to stop first would be the halte fluviale at
Xouaxange, a charming village with a rather
strange name.

The port at Hesse (below) is a base for Crown

Blue Line rental boats, and offers full services.
Another 4 km leads to a mooring at Niderviller.
The latter is a good stop for a cycling trip to
investigate the faïence and crystal produced here
and in other nearby villages. Another point of
interest in this area is at Sarrebourg, home of the
large and very beautiful stained glass window by
Marc Chagall in the Cordeliers Chapel.

There are two very good restaurants nearby, each awarded one Michelin star:

Ernest Mathis: Michelin describes the cuisine as "inventive".

7 rue Gambetta, Sarrebourg Tel 03 87 03 21 67

Au Soldat de l'An II: cuisine is modern, based on the regional traditions.

1 route Saverne, Phalsbourg Tel 03 87 24 16 16

The restaurants can be reached by bicycle, or call and ask to be picked up.
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Niderviller to Arzviller
After passing through gently rolling countryside,
the canal enters first the relatively short Niderviller
tunnel, and then the 2,306-meter (1.44 miles)
Arzviller tunnel. East of the tunnel, the surroundings
now become steep, densely forested hills. The path
of the canal continues through the forest at the same
level to the top of the famous Arzviller boatlift. The
land falls away on the left side down a narrow gorge
which contains a small, twisting road, a rail line and
the old canal route. The latter is the Ancienne Echelle
de 17 écluses, an abandoned ladder of 17 locks,
each with its own lock keeper's cottage. The basins
of these locks and the pounds between are now filled
with logs that have been cut from the surrounding
A rental cruiser enters the Arzviller tunnel, eastern end forest and are awaiting transport to a mill.
The view from the "new" canal, which curves along
the shoulder at the top of a ridge, is unusual. The
waterway looks out on treetops, the roofs of houses
and the tiny logs far below.
The French are justifiably proud of the spectacular
Arzviller-St Louis inclined-plane boatlift. On this
day it lowers a single cruiser, but it is capable of
transporting a péniche or several cruisers (a total of
900 tons of boats and water, in practice limited
only by the number of boats that will fit in.) Boats
float into a water-filled caisson, and then this
traveling bathtub is sealed by a vertical gate and
lowered transversely down a 41% slope to the canal
45 meters below. The whole process takes less than thirty minutes, eliminating a full day of negotiating the
seventeen locks of the previous route. On busier days, the lift returns uphill with boats traveling westbound.
The lift uses electric motors and cables, but a counter-
weight makes the work fairly easy. It is the principle of
displacement; each boat displaces its own weight of
water, thus a caisson filled only with water weighs the
same as when boats enter and some of the water flows
out of the tank. The mechanism is always moving the
same weight, regardless of the number or size of the
boats in the tank. The ride itself is very smooth, and it's
a perfect time to enjoy the views of the forests and the
valley below. Tourists arriving by car can visit the site
on foot, by tour boat or on a small roadgoing train. There
are fees for all of this, but canal cruisers pay nothing but
their basic canal-usage fee.
A wide pound is provided at the bottom of the lift for the
180-degree turn required and for boats waiting their turn.
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Arzviller to Lutzelbourg Page 11

Just a short distance further on, we saw this very

beautiful black, green, magenta and white barge;
it had spent a peaceful winter at this secluded spot,
adjacent to the lock keeper's house at Écluse #18.
It's worth getting off at this lock for a look at the
vegetable garden and poultry pen behind the house,
and beyond those to a rushing frothy stream. (It all
makes one think that being a lock keeper must be
one of the world's dream jobs!)
The canal descends alongside the river Zorn to the
charming village of Lutzelbourg. The canal is now
deep in a narrow S-shaped gorge, with the ruins of
the 10th-century Lutzelbourg Château on the cliff
high above. This is the view from the chateau:

There are three ports serving this popular stop. The upstream port is operated by Locaboat Plaisance; at this time
of year (late March) there are over twenty of their rental plénichettes moored along the right bank, being serviced
for the coming season. The other two ports are around the curve and beyond the lock that is the center point of
the village. These are all delightful places for a stop overnight or longer, to enjoy the village and get some
exercise with a pleasant walk. A paved road or a hiking path switchback up the southern ridge, making for an
easy climb to the chateau. The ruins are open to the public (with only the obligatory warning signs about the
dangers ahead) and are especially interesting because they are unrestored and do not include any modern food or
souvenir shops. There are several spots that allow unrestricted views of the canal upstream and downstream, and
of the entire village.
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Lutzelbourg to Saverne Page 12

Lutzelbourg is a quaint mountain town right on the

border between the Lorraine and Alsace regions, an
area that was traded back and forth between France
and Germany several times in the 19th and 20th
centuries. Most signs show French and German
versions.

The best one-day canal cruise in France is right

here, from Arzviller to Saverne. That's not just
my opinion; listen to these quotes:

"This stage is without doubt one of the most

beautiful stretches that you could sail along
anywhere on the French network."
Jean Morlot, Guide Vagnon de Tourisme Fluvial

"Given just one day to convert a person to the

delights of French canal cruising, I would choose
to take them along the 20km of Canal de la
Marne au Rhin from Saverne to Niderviller in
northwestern Alsace."
Hugh McKnight, Cruising French Waterways

The highway along this part of the canal is labeled "Route des Chateaux". Several of these pink sandstone
castles are perched on crags atop the hills, above dark pines and green deciduous forests. These are the foothills
at the north end of the Vosges mountain range that extends north to south above the plain of Alsace and the
Rhine valley, a neighbor matching the Black Forest range on the German side.

Château Haut-Barr is a famous viewpoint that overlooks the canal on one side and most of Alsace on the other.
It is 5 km by road from Saverne and can be reached by bus. However, compared to the very serene and spiritual
feeling at Lutzelbourg, Haut-Barr was a little too "touristy" for us. But the view is worth the trip, from up here
you can see across the Alsatian plain to the Rhine.
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Saverne to Strasbourg
Saverne is the site of an excellent port, with a base
for Nicols rental boats. Across the canal from the
docks is the massive Château des Rohans, the
former summer palace of the powerful Rohan
family and now operated by the city as a museum
and government offices. Along the canal to the
west of the old quarter is a public garden with
over 1,000 varieties of roses. In this city of half-
timbered houses, the Taverne Katz stands out
quite literally, its finely carved timbers (dating
from 1605) project over the pedestrian street
below. The picture-postcard style and traditional
Alsatian cuisine and wines make this a very popular and famous restaurant.

Between Saverne and Strasbourg the canal descends through twenty locks and 41 km across the Alsatian Plain.
Some of the history of this area can be understood from French-German variations of the town names; the first
potential stop below Saverne is at Dettwiller, spelled with a "w" as compared to the "v" in Niderviller. Many of
the names end in "-heim"; Waltenheim-sur-Zorn is one such village, a German name with the French suffix "sur
Zorn". The quay here has been used by hotel barges as a base for their tours on the "wine road" south to Colmar.
The canal does not pass directly through vineyard areas, in fact the canal area is more noted for the brewing of
beer, most famouly at Hochfelden, which has been the home of Météor Alsatian beers since 1640!

The steep-sided valley of the Zorn River as it parallels the canal from Saverne down to Waltenheim adds to the
attraction of this agricultural area. But then the last 20 km of the route strikes out straight across the fields for
Strasbourg. While there are moorings to be found closer to the city, many canal travelers prefer to moor four km
northwest at the port of Souffelweyersheim, where bus service into the city is available. There is some risk of
vandalism or theft at the city moorings.
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Strasbourg
Strasbourg is a cosmopolitan city and home of the
European Parliament. The usual destination for
visitors is in the old city; it is very French in the
the cathedral area and at La Petite France, shown
at right. For canal travelers, the first approach to
the city on the canal is directly in front of the
ultra-modern Palais de l'Europe buildings.While
it is possible to turn there onto the river Ill to go
into the center of Strasbourg, rental boats are
prohibited and all private vessels encounter a
one-way prohibition at the Quai des Pêcheurs,
where short-term mooring may be possible.

Sidewalk cafes, restaurants and shops line the narrow,

twisting streets of Petite France and the old quarter
around the Strasbourg Cathedral. The west facade of
the cathedral, with its stunning stained-glass Rose
Window (fifty feet in diameter) dominates the square
below, even though street level is filled with portrait
artists, souvenir vendors and food stands. Inside the
cathedral, watch for the Astronomical Clock to come
to life, with its apostles, angels and astrological
symbols.

The river Ill passes through the sector; it is

difficult to enjoy the sights on your own vessel,
but there are many excursion boats offering tours
and sidewalks are at river level on some channels,
making a walk along the banks very pleasant.

This somewhat confusing intersection of several

waterways is detailed on the next page.
The Canal de la Marne au Rhin ends at a junction
with the river Rhine, on the northeastern corner of
the city of Strasbourg.
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Waterways of Strasbourg

To Saverne Canal de la Marne au Rhin

41 km from Rhin Rhin river
Lock 50 Ill river
P1
Aar river (non-motorized boats only)
Souffelweyersheim
Canal du Rhone au Rhin, br nord
Fossé du Faux
Canal de Jonction
Fossé des Remparts/Canal de Derivation
P2 Bisheim
Lock 51
Schiltigheim

la Robertsau
Lock
Strasbourg
Palais de l'Europe
P3 Nord
(European Parliament)

Gare
Kehl
Cathedral
P5
Petite
France
STRASBOURG
igation
ay Nav
One-W

P4
P6 Lock 86 Bassin
P7 d'Austerlitz
Lock 85

Lock
PORTS: Strasbourg
Sud
P1 Souffelweyersheim
P2 Chemins Nautique d'Alsace Tel 03 88 81 39 39
P3 Quai Jacoutot (no services)
Lock 84
P4 Quai des Belges; Koejac Marine Tel 03 88 61 26 78
P5 Quai des Pecheurs
P6 Bassin de l'Hopital
P7 Marinest Tel 03 88 29 74 93

To Boofzheim & Rhinau,

junction with Rhin river
30 km
USEFUL ADDRESSES

Waterway Authorities Self-Skippered Boat Rentals

VNF Nancy: Toul:
Service de la Navigation du Nord Est Connoisseur
28, boulevard Albert 1er, case officielle 62 Le Grand Basin – B.P.1201
54036 NANCY 11492 CASTELNAUDARY
Tel: +33 (0)3 83 95 30 01 Fax: +33 (0)3 83 98 56 61 Tel: +33 (0)4 68 94 09 75 Fax : +33 (0)4 68 94 52 73
www.connoisseurafloat.com
VNF Strasbourg: E-mail: info@connoisseur.fr
Service de la Navigation de Strasbourg
25, rue de la Nuée-Bleue Lagarde:
67081 STRASBOURG Rive de France
Tel: +33 (0)3 88 21 74 74 Fax: +33 (0)3 88 75 65 06 Port de Plaisance
57810 LAGARDE
Tourist Offices Tel: +33 (0)3 87 86 65 01 Fax : +33 (0)3 87 86 64 13
Office de Tourisme de Nancy www.rive-de-france.fr
Place Stanislas B.P. 810 E-mail: lag@i2m.fr
54000 NANCY
Tel: +33 (0)3 83 35 22 41 Fax: +33 (0)3 83 35 90 10 Hesse:
www.ot-nancy.fr Crown Blue Line
E-mail: tourisme@ot-nancy.fr Tel: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 72
www.crownblueline.com
Office de Tourisme de Strasbourg E-mail: info@crownblueline.com
17, place de la Cathédrale B.P. 70020
67000 STRASBOURG Port du Houllion, Canal des Houillieres:
Tel: +33 (0)3 88 52 28 28 Fax : +33 (0)3 88 52 28 29 Kuhnle Tours – Aquavac Plaisance
www.ot-strasbourg.fr Port du Houillon – B.P. 14
E-mail: info@ot-strasbourg.fr 57830 LANGUIMBERG
For more info on Strasbourg & Alsace region: Tel: Stuttgart +49 (0) 711 164 820
www.strasbourg.com www.kuhnle-tours.com
E-mail: info@kuhnle-tours.de
Boat Trips from Strasbourg
Tour boats circle through the middle of Strasbourg from a Lutzelbourg:
quay on the river Ill near the cathedral, in front of the Locaboat Plaisance
Rohan palace. B.P. 150
In summer months, a 2 ho ur cruise on the Rhine: 89303 JOIGNY CEDEX
Service touristique du Port Autonome de Strasbourg Tel: +33 (0)3 86 91 72 72
15, rue de Nantes 67100 Strasbourg www.locaboat.com
Tel: +33 (0)3 88 84 13 13 – Fax: +33 (0)3 88 84 33 13 E-mail: info@locaboat.com

Road tours by van: Saverne:

Day trips along the Alsace Wine Road Nicols
Or through the Black Forest of Germany: Route du Puy St. Bonnet
Tourisme Fleury 42300 CHOLET
15, rue du Kirchberg Tel: +33 (0)2 41 56 46 56 Fax : +33 (0)2 41 56 46 47
67370 STRASBOURG www.nicols.com
Tel: +33 (0)6 07 26 28 15 E-mail: nicols@nicols.com
www.tourisme-fleury.fr
E-mail: info@tourisme-fleury.fr
Schiltigheim (Strasbourg):
Rail Stations Chemins Nautiques d’Alsace
Main rail lines connect from Paris to Nancy & Strasbourg. Port du Canal – B.P. 11
67311 SCHILTIGHEIM CEDEX
Tel: +33 (0)3 88 81 39 39 Fax : +33 (0)3 88 81 35 12
 Meuse river
Canal de l’Est

Meuse river near the France-Belgium border

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NOTE: After this report was first published it was announced by VNF, the French national canal authority,
that the names of the two sections of this canal would be changed. The text and maps in this report have not
been changed, in order that they may be conveniently used in conjunction with other charts and guidebooks;
it will take some time for the use of the new names to become widespread.
Canal de l'Est , branche Nord becomes Canal de la Meuse
Canal de l'Est , branche Sud becomes Canal des Vosges

CONTENTS:

Page 3. Overview Map: Meuse/Canal de l'Est

4. Meuse/Canal de l'Est

5. Meuse (Belgium)

6. Route Map & Elevations: Meuse (Belgium)

7. Canal de l'Est, branche Nord

10. Route Map & Elevations: Canal de l'Est, branche Nord

11. Canal de l'Est, Nancy Carrefour

12. Note Regarding Canal Distance Numbering

13. Route Map & Elevations: Canal de l'Est, Nancy Carrefour

14. Canal de l'Est, branche Sud

16. Route Map & Elevations: Canal de l'Est, branche Sud

17. Rental Boat Bases & Suggested Cruises

18. Guide: Useful Addresses

Hotels, Restaurants, B&B
Rental Boat Bases
Tourist Information
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended
Navigation Difficulty: Some sections have intense traffic, current and/or shallow places

The Canal de l'Est is an important through-route in eastern France. It is part of the shortest,
most direct route from the North Sea to the Mediterannean Sea (1,478 km total distance.)
It is the north-south route of the three waterways that intersect at Nancy, with options PARIS
for travel east to the Rhine or west to Paris.
Meuse/Canal de l'Est
To the North Sea: 246 km
Liege to Corre: Liege from Liege via Meuse/Maas river
Total Length 550.9 kilometers
Total Locks 184
Minimum Draft 1.80 meters Meuse river
Minimum Height 3.50 meters Liege to BE/FR border
114.0 km
13 locks 100X12 m
Draft 2.40 m
Givet Height 5.2 m
Charts:
Speed 15 km/h
Navicarte #9
Guide Vagnon #8 & 13
Guide Fluviaux EDB #4
BELGIUM
Maps:
Michelin # 241 & 242
FRANCE Season: Open all year,
Canal de l'Est (Nord) except Jan 1, Easter, Whitsun, May 1,
Pont-a-Bar Givet to Troussey July 14, Nov 1 & 11, Christmas
272.4 km Locks operate:
Canal des Ardennes Dec 1 to Jan 31: 0730 to 1730 hours
59 locks 38.5X5.05 m
Draft 1.80 m Feb 1 to Feb 28: 0700 to 1800
To Paris via the Oise: 368 km
Height 3.50 m Mar 1 to Mar 31: 0700 to 1900
Speed 6/10 km/h April 1 to Sept 30: 0630 to 1930
Oct 1 to Nov 30: 0700 to 1800
Verdun

To the Rhine at Koblenz: 346 km

via Moselle river

Nancy To the Rhine at Strasbourg: 158 km

Troussey Toul via Canal de la Marne au Rhin
To Paris via the Marne: 380 km Neuves- Canal de l'Est (Sud)
Maisons
Neuves-Maisons to Corre
121.5 km
Canal de la Marne au Rhin Moselle river 93 locks 38.5X5.05 m
Troussey to Toul Toul to Neuves-Maisons Draft 1.80 m
20 km 23 km Height 3.50 m
16 locks 38.5X5.05 m 3 locks 180X11.4 m Speed 6 km/h
Draft 1.80 m Draft 2.50 m Epinal
Height 3.50 m Height 5.40 m
Speed 6/8 km/h Speed 12/15 km/h

Corre
To the Med via Saone & Rhone: 681 km

NOTE: Distances & dimensions for Moselle & Canal de la Marne au Rhin are shown for the portion along the Canal de l'Est route only.
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Meuse/Canal de l’Est

The Meuse river-Canal de l’Est waterway is an important through-route for inland waterway travel in
France; it is part of the shortest, most direct route between the North Sea and the Mediterranean Sea (and
bypasses Paris.) It is the longest canal in the French network, in fact just the northern branch is longer
than any other individual canal. But is is also an excellent cruising waterway, whether for a trip along its
entire length or shorter excursions in the most scenic sections.

The canal can be thought of as a large green dumbbell, thick with forests on each end and in the center a
narrow strip of woodlands that line the waterway as it crosses the farmlands of the Lorraine region. It
passes through the area known as the principal oxygen-producing center of Europe, a heavily-wooded
region with restful landscapes and pleasant towns. In the north, the route twists through the forests of the
Ardennes which cover the hills of eastern Belgium and northeastern France, and at the southern end the
foothills of the Vosges mountains again bring endless forest scenery. The bucolic countryside is
interrupted only briefly by the industrial region around the city of Nancy.

The northern section, Canal de l’Est branche Nord, follows the Meuse river valley; this long scenic river
flows north into Belgium and The Netherlands from its source near the far southern border of the
Champagne region in east-central France. The southern section, Canal de l’Est branche Sud, follows
another north-flowing river, the Moselle, a river valley that somewhat parallels the Meuse. The Moselle
has its source in the Franche-Comté region at the southern end of the Vosges mountains and flows north
to Nancy, then northeast to join the Rhine at Koblenz, Germany. A third river, the Saône, begins between
these two river valleys, but on the Mediterranean side of the continental divide. It flows south and
southwest until it meets the Rhône at the city of Lyon, forming a direct route south to the sea.

These rivers were canalized and connected by summit canals constructed in the later years of the canal-
building era, between 1874 and 1882. At Nancy, a short stretch of the east-west Canal de la Marne au
Rhin connects the Meuse valley with the Moselle valley, joining the branche Nord with the branche Sud.
And at Epinal the branche Sud extends southwest over the watershed divide to a junction with the Saône
at Corre; this section is also called Canal des Vosges.

The Canal de l’Est thus offers a variety of possibilities for waterway travel:
• north or southbound between Holland/Belgium and the Mediterranean Sea
• connecting east to the Rhine at Strasbourg
• connecting northeast to the Rhine at Koblenz
• connecting west on the Marne into Paris
• connecting to the waterways of Burgundy at St-Jean-de-Losne
• scenic cruises, especially at the northern and southern ends of the canal

The locks are the standard Freycinet gauge except for the 23-kilometer stretch which is part of the
Moselle river navigation, with large locks suitable for 1500ton barges. Although at first glance it may
appear that there are many locks along the route, actually it includes smallest total number of locks
required to travel between northern and southern France. It is only in a short stretch near Epinal that many
locks are closely grouped, otherwise they are spread quite evenly along the length of the canal.
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Meuse (Belgium section, Liège to French border)

In Belgium the river is bounded on both sides by steep cliffs; between Liège and Namur the cliffs are set
back enough to allow commerce and industry to be located on the banks, but south of Namur the Meuse
passes through tight loops in the Ardennes forests and the wooded cliffs often close in right to the
riverbank.

The river passes through the center of Liège and its large commercial port area. The pleasure-vessel port
of Evêché is located on the southern side of the city. At Huy the full-service port of Corphalie is located
across the river and 2 km north of the city center, but there is also a mooring quai near the main bridge
into the city center. The next recommended stop is at the larger city of Namur, mooring just after turning
off the Meuse and entering the Sambre (most traffic will continue south on the Meuse.) This is a major
regional tourist center, with lots of sightseeing and restaurants, although rated by gastronomic experts as
“disappointing”.

The most enjoyable cruising will be found after the river has turned south from Namur, where there is less
modern civilization, more natural wooded riverbanks with rock outcroppings. Small towns dot the turns
of the river, offering a welcome and fine foods to travelers. A typical Meuse village is Dave, located on
the right bank behind the amusingly-named Ile de Dave (will there also be an Ile de Bob, or Ile de Tom?)
Nearly every village includes a chateau, some of which can be visited. Near Profondeville are the Chateau
de la Hulle and its associated village of Petite Hulle, and the Chateau de Rougement just a little further
north. Godinne is one of several towns where some of the chateaux are Spanish; Iberian troops were one
of the many invaders of the area along the Meuse valley. At Annevoie-Rouillon there is a fine example of
a stately 18th century mansion with rare stuccos and elegant gardens.

Along with the many excellent museums of art and history, there seems to be a museum somewhere in
Europe devoted to any conceivable subject or object; the first one of note on this route is in Wépion, the
first village below Namur at PK 41: the musée de la fraise, or Strawberry Museum. Many of these are of
course intended to draw shoppers, such as the ubiquitous “musée du vin”, but each of them can offer
knowledge and enjoyment of the culture of the area.

Dinant is a larger town and a tourist center, so here you can choose a stop where there is more happening,
if that is your bent. The imposing citadel looks down from atop a steep cliff onto the bulbous tower of the
collegiale church and the slate-roofed houses set on a narrow shelf along both sides of the river. Mooring
quais are available on the right bank adjacent to the center of town, but the recommended overnight stop
is at Anseremme, two kilometers upstream. The port is right at the mouth of the river Lesse, a popular
canoeing-kayaking stream in a valley of good hiking trails and rock climbing venues.

Rock climbers are often seen on the cliffs that go straight up from the water’s edge on the curves below
Dinant. They are a part of modern life, while earlier days are displayed across the river at the gardens and
historical collections of the Freyr chateau (mooring quai from PK 12 to 13.) There is another good
mooring at the Port de Plaisance of Waulsort and again at Heer, which is the last village in Belgium.

Information regarding waterway travel in the Wallonie region of Belgium can be found online at:
voies-hydrauliques.wallonie.be/xsl/nav/plaisance.html
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended
Navigation Difficulty: Some sections have intense traffic,
current and/or shallow places

Liege
P junction Maas river
Netherlands Border

Huy Meuse river

Namur
junction Sambre river Liege to BE/FR border
P Jambes 114.0 km
Wepoin Dave 13 locks 100X12 m
Draft 2.40 m
Profondeville Height 5.2 m
Godinne Speed 15 km/h
Annevoie- P = ports
Rouillon
Dinant
P
Anseremme
Freyr P

Waulsort
P

Heer (Belgium)
Givet (France) P
junction Canal de l'Est, branche Nord
France/Belgium Border

Elevation, meters
40 Heer
Waulsort
35 Anseremme
Dinant
30
25 Copyright 2002 EuroCanals

20 Namur/Jambes

15
Huy
10
5 Liege
0
PK 0 Km 9 15 20 46 78 109
Lock#1 2 3 4 10 11 12 13
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Canal de l’Est, branche Nord (renamed Canal de la Meuse, January 2003)

Southbound, the first lock in France comes up immediately at les 4 cheminées, where the French
waterway toll must be paid (rental boats will already have the required sticker.) The cost varies with the
time that you plan to cruise and the surface area (length X beam) of your vessel. An annual sticker for
2002 in the largest size category (more than 60 sq. meters) cost 413.59 Euros (10% discount if purchased
before March 20, 2002.) For shorter periods, other options are 30 days cruising (not necessarily
consecutive days) at 251.39E or 16 days (consecutive days required) at 79.43E. For more details and 2004
rates, go to www.vnf.fr

From the France/Belgium border at Givet it is eighty kilometers on the Meuse river to the industrial area
at Charleville-Mezières; nearly all of this distance is in the thick forests of the Ardennes, and the river
continues to twist between the wooded ridges, in even more tight curls than in Belgium. A half-dozen of
the loops in the river’s path are almost 360 degrees, just a narrow strip of land remains. Four of these
loops have been shortcut, by a tunnel at Ham and canal cuts at Revin, Charleville and Mezières, but still
the 80 km waterway from Givet to Charleville is a 40 km straight-line distance on the map.

Here in France the waterway has been designated with a rather ungainly name, but in fact it is almost
entirely in the Meuse riverbed, with only occasional canalized deviations. The French Ardennes area
offers some of the finest boating through dense forests to be found anywhere in Europe. There are many
stretches with no towns or even small villages, just kilometers of unbroken forest. Roads and a rail line
often follow alongside, so there is some distraction from the natural surroundings, but the area is
generally much more peaceful than the Meuse/Belgium section, which itself is hardly overrun with
tourists and civilization.

Usually border towns are not of interest for a prolonged visit, but this is not true of Givet. The massive
fortress Charlemont, built in 1555, dominates the town from the ridge along the left bank of the river.
Four kilometers to the east are the Nichet caverns at Fromelennes; twelve chambers are open for visits in
the summer months. The medieval village and chateau of Hierges is closeby (although perhaps more
easily reached from Aubrives, 6 km upstream.) For more contemporary exploration, the Center for Arts &
Crafts is located here.

Several kilometers of the river (and a nuclear powerplant) are avoided by the 565 meter tunnel at Ham-
sur-Meuse. South of the tunnel are the cross-river industrial towns of Vireux Molhain and Vireux
Wallerand, then the forests begin again in earnest at Montigny. The craggy outcroppings on the ridges are
inviting; this is excellent hiking country and there are trails to many viewponts, especially from the locks
at Fépin and at Haybes, or from a mooring at Fumay, where there is a good port at the left bank quai.
Fumay is an old town of slate quarries and narrow, steep alleys, with (of course) a Slate Museum.

Revin comes highly rated by barge cruisers. Loops in the river’s path have created two peninsulas,
separating the old town from the industrial sector. The neck of the town loop is crossed by a canal cut,
with a lock and 224-meter tunnel. At the upstream (south) end of the tunnel, a section of the river remains
navigable as far as a pleasant mooring alongside a park, convenient to services in the town. Sights include
half-timbered Spanish houses, and it is a good base for bicycling excursions.
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The next lock after Revin is écluse des Dames de Meuse, the beginning of an impressive three-kilometer
series of forested cliffs above the left bank, one of the most beautiful sites in the Ardennes. The rocks are
named Hodieme, Berthe and Iges, three unfaithful wives who were turned to stone by divine wrath. (I
know what you are thinking, what about unfaithful men? But this is just an old wives tale.)

Postcard-style beauty is also featured at Monthermé, where wooded, rocky ridges surround a small
almost-circular peninsula covered by dark green forest and a few terraces of the village streets. The long
curving quai at the top of the peninsula is a favorite mooring, as well as another good base for rambles
into the forests, along the many blazed trails which radiate from here to the “7 Villages Rock”, “7 o’clock
Rock” and “Long Rock”.

Twenty kilometers remain of the forest waterway, with several more legendary rocks accessible by hiking
trails, then the route passes between the twin cities of Charleville-Mezières, again short-cutting through
the neck of the last of the tight loops in the riverbed. This is the largest urban area in the region, with full
services and, in the center of Charleville not far from the port, the very beautiful Place Ducale surrounded
by pedestrian-only shopping streets and covered arcades. Several museums can be visited, including one
devoted to the poet Rimbaud; this is also a city known as the “Marionettes capital of the world”.

After a stretch noted mainly for several large railyards, there is a junction with the Canal des Ardennes,
where travel can connect to the southwest toward Reims, the Champagne region and on to Paris. On the
Meuse, the next town and port are at Sedan, the location of the largest fortified castle in Northern Europe
(over 35,000 square meters.) Until now there have been few canalized sections, but upstream of Sedan the
river valley is wide and open and the flow is no longer forced to turn by steep cliffs but rather it drifts it
around in small meanders, so straight-line canal sections have been constructed. The first of these begins
at Bazeilles, but before entering the cut, you can take the old Meuse to a mooring at Auberge du Port, a
restaurant dock. Not far away is the Musée de la Dernière Cartouche (museum of the last cartridge), with
objects from the nearby battlefields of the war of 1870, where soldiers fought “to the last cartridge”.

Mouzon is a small but interesting ancient town, with fortifications dating from the 11th century. The
Benedictine Abbey and adjoining hospice are not to be missed, especially for a visit to the interior of the
Gothic church and the gardens. The tall Burgundy Gate attests to the fine architecture of the medieval
town. For a continuation of the museum tour, visit the Felt Museum.

At Mouzon the canal returns to the natural riverbed and takes a few large sweeps to the west through
farming country before being “straightened” again. The town of Stenay is halfway down the next twenty-
kilometer stretch, a place famous for having the only Beer Museum in France, a comprehensive display of
every aspect of beer-making and culture. The town also has a long and important history in the many
sieges and wars that have passed through this part of France. At the next stopping place, the old quarter of
Dun-sur-Meuse is located on a cliff above three islands in the river, offering a panoramic view over the
Meuse valley. A row of shops at canal level are convenient to moorings at the halte nautique or along the
canal banks near the lock.
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The canal passes through the middle of the well-known city of Verdun, in fact it passes right through a
tunnel cut into ramparts 45 meters (149 feet) thick. There are mooring quais on both sides of the canal in
the center of the city. The strategic importance of the location of Verdun began in Roman times, when it
was the crossroads of the Meuse and the road from Metz to Reims, and continued through the centuries; it
was a major defensive center in the Prussian war of 1870, and was the site of 800,000 deaths in 1916.
There are many military cemeteries and monuments surrounding Verdun which tell of the horrors of the
battles here. The city itself has been carefully restored and is worthy of an extended visit to view its
historical and architectural riches, including the Notre Dame cathedral, citadel, World Peace Center and
Thilombois castle

St Mihiel (St Michael) is another city with a long war history culminating in the occupation of the city for
four years (1914-1918) by the Germans, blocking the resupply of Verdun and other towns along the
Meuse valley. The library at St Mihiel is one of the finest in France, featuring almost 8,000 works
collected over the centuries by Benedictine monks. The Center for Sacred Art is unique in France; works
of sculptor Ligier Richier, leader of a 16th century school of religious art, are displayed in local churches.
For gastronomic enjoyment, don’t miss the special St Mihiel chocolates. The last of the tree-covered cliffs
of this route are along here, especially the “Ladies of the Meuse”, seven blocks of stone more than 20
meters high.

An appropriate ending to the story of a trip down this canal can be a visit to Commercy for some of the
“Madeleines”, small golden sponge cakes that originated here in 1755. South of this town the Meuse takes
off on a long meander to the west, so the canal has been cut in straight lines and a ninety-degree corner to
a junction with the Canal de la Marne au Rhin. At Troussey the Canal de l’Est leaves the valley of the
Meuse and crosses into the valley of the Moselle river.
 EuroCanals Guide: Canal de l'Est, branche nord
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended
Navigation Difficulty: Some sections have intense traffic, current
and/or shallow places

Givet junction Meuse river

Tunnel 565 m P Canal de l'Est (Nord)
Givet to Troussey
P BELGIUM 272.4 km
FRANCE 59 locks 38.5X5.05 m
Fumay
Revin Draft 1.80 m
P
Tunnel 224 m Height 3.50 m
P
Laifour Montherme Speed 6/10 km/h
P Chateau Regnault P = ports
Charleville-Mezieres
P P Sedan
P
junction Canal des Ardennes Pont- P Mouzon
a-Bar
P Stenay

P
Dun-sur-Meuse
Consenvoye
P

P Tunnel 45 m
Verdun

Dieue P

Lacroix-sur-Meuse
Copyright 2002 EuroCanals
P
St Mihiel
Tunnel 50 m

Commercy junction Canal de la Marne au Rhin

Troussey
Elevation, meters
Troussey
150 Commercy
St Mihiel
Lacroix
120 Dieue
Verdun
Consenvoye
90 Dun-sur-Meuse
Stenay
Mouzon
60 Sedan
Pont-a-Bar
Charleville-Mezieres
Montherme
Revin
30 Fumay
Givet

0
PK 0 Kilometers 29 40 54 80 97 108 123 149 162 179 203 216 231 241 262 272
Lock#59 52 50 46 42 40 37 35 31 28 24 19 15 12 10 6 1
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Canal de l’Est, Nancy Carrefour (Intersection of the waterways at Nancy)

The extension of the Canal de l’Est to the south and on to a connection with the Saône river is made
possible by the intersection of canals and rivers around the major city of Nancy. The Meuse river, which
has formed the path of the waterway for 386 kilometers through Belgium and northeastern France, is now
but a small willow-lined stream that winds across the meadows of Lorraine. The Canal de la Marne au
Rhin takes the route from the Meuse valley through a tunnel almost one kilometer long and down into the
valley of the Moselle river at Toul. Travelers bound for Strasbourg or the Rhine at Koblenz can then
follow the Moselle downstream to the north side of Nancy, while upstream traffic on the Moselle will join
the southern branch of the Canal de l’Est at Neuves-Maisons, at the south of Nancy. The two branches of
the Canal de l’Est are separated by 43 kilometers, but joined together by the two other navigations.

From its junction with the Canal de l’Est branche Nord, the Canal de la Marne au Rhin takes an easy nine-
kilometer path past Troussey, Pagny-sur-Meuse and Lay-St-Remy before entering the tunnel (alternating
one-way traffic) and then descending through a string of fifteen locks to Toul and the Moselle, where the
route turns back almost 180 degrees to go upstream, thus passing by Toul on its north and again on its
south side. The pleasure boat port “Port de France” is on the north side near the city’s moat, which cuts
across the neck of the peninsula formed by the waterways.

Toul is an ancient fortified city, surrounded by massive stone ramparts. There are two historic churches,
St Genoult (built 10th –15th centuries) and St Etienne cathedral (built 13 th-16th centuries). The cathedral is
large and an impressive sight from the water when passing by on the Moselle. This area is the only wine
region along the Canal de l’Est route; Côtes de Toul is an AOC appellation for this small area of
vineyards between the Meuse and Moselle valleys.

The size of the locks and the barges on the Moselle may come as a shock, this is now a waterway
designed for much larger barges. The first lock system near Toul is a combination, there is a Freycinet-
gauge lock in a separate channel alongside the larger lock, but at Villey-le-Sec and Neuves-Maisons the
locks are over twice as wide and 4 times as long as the Freycinet locks. Use the VHF radio to contact
the lockmaster for instructions. The large barges are there because of the steelworks at Neuves-Maisons;
beyond that port the canal reverts to the smaller scale. The port here can be used for mooring while on a
visit to Nancy (perhaps by bus or taxi), but for a prolonged visit it is better to circle around the carrefour
and moor directly in Nancy.

Although Nancy is the center of an important manufacturing region and is surrounded by rather dismal
suburbs and urban neighborhoods, the city center is of interest and has some elegant Art Nouveau
architecture around the Place Stanislas, which may be the finest square in France. Classical 18th century
buildings with elaborate gilded cast-iron gateways and lanterns surround a broad plaza. Nearby are stylish
shops and elegant restaurants, and of course more museums, in particular Le Musée de l’École de Nancy,
and the Ducal Palace, all within a short distance from the downtown ports.

The map shows a connecting canal on the east side of Nancy, embranchement de Nancy, however this
waterway is reserved for use by commercial barges, except in July and August. It is recommended that
cruising vessels arriving from the south and wanting to visit Nancy and/or proceed east to Strasbourg
should cruise clockwise around the Moselle river loop and east on the Canal de la Marne au Rhin. This is
a pleasant trip in any case, with good scenery and interesting sights (to be covered in a future report on the
entire Canal de la Marne au Rhin.)
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Note Regarding Canal Distance Numbering:

The PK (Kilometer Post) numbers shown on the maps in this report are those assigned by the French
authority and are shown as marked in the published canal charts. They are quite confusing until studied
carefully. Here is a summary (refer to the PK scale at the bottom of each Elevation chart):
• Canal de l’Est, branche Nord starts at the France/Belgium border and counts southward to PK 272
at the intersection with Canal de la Marne au Rhin at Troussey, then the PK numbers of the latter
waterway are used.
• Canal de la Marne au Rhin starts at its western end; at the intersection with Canal de l’Est, branche
Nord, the distance is PK 111; at the intersection with the Moselle river at Toul, the distance is PK
131, then the PK numbers of the latter waterway are used.
• Numbering on the Moselle river starts at its intersection with the Rhine near Koblenz, Germany
and counts southward to PK 393 at Neuves-Maison; the Canal de la Marne au Rhin intersection is
at PK 371.
• Canal de l’Est, branche Sud starts at Neuves-Maisons and counts southward, however
immediately after PK 393 on the Moselle, the branche Sud starts with PK 26 rather than PK 0.
This is because the canal was originally laid out to include 25.3 kilometers in the Moselle riverbed
to Toul; this section was replaced in 1978 by the upgraded and enlarged Moselle river navigation.
Rather than reset the numbering, the first section is simply ignored. That explains why a canal that
ends at PK 147 is only 121.5 kilometers long.
• Got all that?
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* carrefour = intersection

Canal de l'Est, branche Nord

Canal de la Marne au Rhin
Moselle river
Canal de l'Est, branche Sud
P = ports

To Liege 386.4 km
from Troussey

Liverdun To the Rhine at Koblenz: 346 km

P P from Frouard
Frouard P Malzeville
P
Nancy
Troussey P
To the Rhine at Strasbourg:158 km from Frouard
Foug Villey P
le Sec
P
P
To Paris via the Marne: 380 km Toul
Tunnel 866 m Neuves- Richardmenil
from Toul Maisons Embranchement de Nancy
can be used by private vessels
To Corre (Saone river) 121.5 km only in July & August
from Neuves-Maisons

Elevation in meters along Canal de l'Est route,

35 from Troussey to Neuves-Maisons:
30
25 Foug Neuves-Maisons
20 Troussey Villey le Sec
15
10 Toul
5
0
PK 111 122 131 371 379
KM 0 11 20 22 30
Lock# 14 27b

Canal de la Marne au Rhin Moselle river

Copyright 2002 EuroCanals
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Canal de l’Est, branche Sud (renamed Canal des Vosges, January 2003)

Although it starts with its northern end in the barge basin of an industrial area, this canal soon passes into
pleasant wooded countryside as it climbs up the valley of the Moselle toward the foothills of the Vosges
mountains. Progress has helped in this case, with the replacement of a busy National-grade highway
(N57) alongside the canal by an Autoroute located several miles to the west. The nearby road has been
downgraded to Departmental status (D570) and is marked with a green stripe on the Michelin map, a
scenic route, for much of the distance from Richardmenil to Charmes. And, unusually, the rail line does
not follow the river valley except in the section between Charmes and Epinal. So travel can be peaceful,
although with the road right nearby it is best to give some thought to selecting overnight mooring spots;
there are no ports until Charmes, so watch for a suitable spot, perhaps near a lock. One possibility is at
lock 39, where the village of Bayon (2 km east) offers a full range of shops, which is not always true of
the tiny villages along this part of the canal.

The canal leaves the Neuves-Maisons basin through a Freycinet-gauge lock, as they will be from here on,
so travel seems more familiar right away. The embranchement to Nancy connects to the north at the next
lock, however as previously noted this route cannot normally be used by pleasure boats. The canal passes
under the autoroute and soon after crosses two channels of the Moselle on a 125-meter aqueduct at
Flavigny-sur-Moselle. Although such “PontCanal” are used at various locations on the French canals, it
is unusual and always interesting to encounter a bridge full of water crossing over another stream. The
scenery in this northern portion of the branche Sud is not spectacular and the canal follows a mostly
straight-line path, but there are views of old stone farm buildings, chateaux, an occasional stone ruin and
high wooded hillsides.

Charmes is the first stop with a full-service port, a town with a long history of destruction by war. It was
most recently burned by the retreating Germans in September 1944, but rebuilt after the war. A 15th
century church and Renaissance buildings remain, making a walking visit worthwhile.

The canal leaves the Moselle valley at PK 83, but a 3.3 km embranchement continues on the river into the
city of Epinal, the largest city since Nancy. A convenient port is located near the city center. This is the
heart of the Vosges region and the city claims the title Capital of Forestry, justly so because of the
International Wood Fair and the fact that the city itself is extensively wooded. The major museum is the
Musée de l’Image, a broad term that covers the long history of imagery which is displayed here (and
much of which was created in Epinal, long a center of French imagery.) A new museum building will
open in 2003, housing the collection of 30,000 prints and woodcuts, Guthenberg printing presses and
lithographic plates.

Canal des Vosges is the name originally given to the section of the Canal de l’Est that was constructed to
carry traffic from the valley of the Moselle over the watershed divide to connect with the river Saône. A
staircase of fifteen locks within three kilometers climbs from Golbey to Bois l’Abbé, then a winding
summit pound 11 km long provides a period of rest from these locking efforts; the tiny village of
Chamousey might be a good spot to tie up overnight, for there will be continuous locking again the next
day on the downhill chain of locks. On the Saône side, 46 locks within 49 kilometers will again keep the
crew busy.
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Page 15

Lock #20 (of these 46) is named Coney, for the river Coney, a tributary of the Saône, now forms the path
of the waterway and supplies water for the canal. Occasionally dammed by weirs and mills as it follows
alongside the canal, the Coney is a sparkling mountain stream that winds through the pine forests. At Port
de Bains, Lock #29, an excursion can be made to the spa village of Bains-les-Bains for a therapeutic soak
in one of the eleven baths that range from 33 to 51 degrees (centigrade; 91 to 124 degrees farenheit.)

The best overnight stopping point along the Canal des Vosges is at Fontenoy-le-Château, both for the
excellent port facilities and for a visit to the town. The chateau is now in ruins, but the present church is
built on a site of churches that date back to 1050. And don’t miss the Museum of Embroidery.

An interesting sidetrip (by bicycle or on foot) starts at the small quai at PK 142, near Basse Vaivre, to the
glassworks at Passavant-la-Rochère; established in 1475, it is the oldest in France. The canal ends at
Corre, where the southbound Saône joins with the Coney. Cruising on the Petite Saône is pleasant and
popular; it will be covered in a future report.
 EuroCanals Guide: Canal de l'Est, branche sud
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended
Navigation Difficulty: Some sections have intense traffic, current
and/or shallow places

Nancy junction Canal de la Marne au Rhin

Neuves-Maisons P Richardmenil
junction Moselle river Embranchement de Nancy
Flavigny can be used by private vessels
only in July & August.
Canal de l'Est (Sud)
Bayon
Neuves-Maisons to Corre
121.5 km
Moselle river section
93 locks 38.5X5.05 m
Neuves-Maisons to Epinal
Draft 1.80 m
Height 3.50 m P
Speed 6 km/h Charmes
P = ports

Thaon-les-Vosges

Bois l'Abbe
Golbey
P
Epinal
Girancourt
Canal des Vosges section
Golbey to Corre

Fontenoy- Bains-les-Bains
le Chateau
P

Corre P junction Saone river

Elevation, meters
150
Bois l'Abbe Girancourt

120
Golbey/Epinal
90 Copyright 2002 EuroCanals

Thaon-les-Vosges

60 Charmes Bains-les-Bains

Neuves- Fontenoy-le-Chateau
30 Maisons Filature
Corre

0
PK 26 Kilometers 47 60 78 82 87 98 118 126 147
Lock#47 39 31 20 14 1 1 29 35 46
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Rental Boat Bases and Suggested Cruises Page 17
Routes shown below are those recommended by the rental operators for a one-week trip
based on 6 days travel at 7 hours/day or less. All trips are return (round-trip) except
Pont-a-Bar to Dinant/Anseremme can be one-way (aller simple) in either direction.

Dinant/Anseremme

Givet Ardennes Nautisme/Locaboat Plaisance

Pont-a-Bar to Givet & return; 190 km, 40 locks
Pont-a-Bar to Verdun & return; 212 km, 48 locks
Pont-a-Bar to Dinant/Anseremme, one-way; 115 km, 22 locks
Revin

Pont-a-Bar
France Passion Plaisance
Stenay Stenay to St Mihiel & return
184 km, 42 locks
Stenay to Revin & return
Nicols 220 km, 36 locks
Stenay to St Mihiel & return;
184 km, 42 locks Verdun
Stenay to Revin & return;
220 km, 36 locks

St Mihiel

Connoisseur
Toul to Verdun & return Toul
176 km, 62 locks
Toul to Epinal & return
172 km, 78 locks Charmes

Crown Blue Line

Fontenoy to Charmes & return Epinal
130 km, 130 locks
Fontenoy to Gray & return
Fontenoy-le-Chateau
200 km, 30 locks
Corre
Fouchecourt
Nicols
Fouchecourt to Epinal & return;
Saone river
134 km, 120 locks

Gray
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Useful Addresses Self-Skippered Boat Rental Bases

Canal Authority, France: Pont-a-Bar & Dinant/Anseremme
Navigation du Nord-Est, direction régionale Ardennes Nautisme (affiliate of locaboat plaisance)
28, bd Albert 1er, 54000 Nancy Tel: +33 (0)3 24 27 05 15
Tel: +33 (0)3 83 95 30 01 Fax: +33 (0)3 24 29 15 22
e-mail: info@ardennes-nautisme.com
Tourist Information: www.ardennes-nautisme.com/
Comité Départemental du Tourisme des Ardennes also: Locaboat Holidays
22/24 Place Ducale, 08000 Charleville-Mézières Tel: +33 (0)3 86 91 72 72 Fax: +33 (0)3 86 62 42 41
Tel: +33 (0)3 24 56 06 08 Fax: +33 (0)3 24 59 20 10 e-mail: info@locaboat.com
www.locaboat.com/
Comité Départemental du Tourisme de Meurthe et Moselle Stenay:
BP 65 CEDEX - 54062 Nancy Nicols
Tel: +33 (0)3 83 94 51 90 Fax: +33 (0)3 83 94 51 99 Tel: +33 (0)2 41 56 46 56 Fax: +33 (0)2 41 56 46 47
e-mail: info@nicols.com
Office de Promotion du Tourisme Wallonie www.nicols.com/
rue du Marché aux Herbes 61, 1000 Brussels Stenay:
Tel: +32 (0)2 504 0390 France Passion Plaisance
www.belgium-tourism.net/Langue/en/ardenne/index.htm Tel: +33 (0)3 85 53 76 70 Fax: +33 (0)3 85 53 76 71
e-mail: info@france-passion-plaisance.fr
www.france-passion-laisance.fr/
Hotels Toul:
Verdun: Connoisseur
Hostellerie du coq Hardi Tel: +33 (0)3 84 64 95 20 Fax: +33 (0)3 84 65 26 54
Avenue de la Victoire, 55100 Verdun e-mail: Connoisseur@wanadoo.fr
Tel: +33 (0)3 29 86 36 36 Fax: +33 (0)3 29 86 09 21 www.connoisseurafloat.com/
Fontenoy-le-Château:
Bed & Breakfast Crown Blue Line, France
Listings of Bed & Breakfasts (Chambres d’Hôtes) are Tel: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 72 Fax: +33 (0)4 68 94 52 73
available on the website of Gîtes de France. e-mail: boathols@crown-blueline.com
Search by Keyword = town name within 30 km www.crownblueline.co
www.gites-de-france.fr/eng/index.htm

Restaurants
Givet:
Le Mehul Gourmand
Tel: 03 24 42 78 37 Hotel Barges
Charleville-Mezières: No hotel barges travel on these waterways.
La Clef des Champs
Tel: 03 24 56 17 50 Rail Stations
Mouzon: Canal de l’Est, branche Nord:
Les Echevins Trains serve nearly every town from Liege south to Nancy.
Tel: 03 24 26 10 90 Nancy: trains from Paris & Strasbourg
Sedan: Canal de l’Est, branche Sud:
Au Bon Vieux Temps South from Nancy to Charmes & Epinal.
1-3 place de la Halle, 08200 Sedan Schedules available at www.sncf.fr/
Tel: 03 24 29 03 70
Verdun:
Hostellerie du coq Hardi
Avenue de la Victoire, 55100 Verdun
Tel: 03 29 86 36 36 Fax: 03 29 86 09 21
Nancy:
Le Cap Marine
60, rue Stanislas, 54000 Nancy
Tel: 03 83 37 05 03 Fax: 03 83 37 01 32
Canal du Midi

Canal du Midi At Poilhes

The Canal du Midi is one of the oldest, and probably the most famous, canals in the world. It was begun
in 1663 by the imagination and engineering of Pierre-Paul Riquet, to link the Atlantic and the
Mediterranean. Connecting to the Atlantic from the west of Toulouse by means of the Garonne river and
Canal latéral à la Garonne, the Canal du Midi descends to the coastal plain of the Med through the
beautiful hills of the Languedoc region between the Pyrenees & the Black Mountains. The history and
cultural importance of the canal was recognized when it was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The creation of the Midi opened a route that is sometimes called the Canaux des Deux Mers, used by
boaters to travel from the Atlantic to the Med without the long open-sea route around Portugal and
Spain. For a holiday or for extended cruising it offers plenty of sunshine, close access to the beaches and
lagoons of the Med, many Roman historical sites and pleasant stops at charming villages or interesting
cities. The signature humpback stone bridges and unique oval locks are frequent photo subjects. The
greatest density of vineyards in the world lies along the route, Minervois on the north of the canal and
Corbières on the south, with many less well-known appellations for sale in the small villages.

Geographically, there are three sections:

• the coastal plain of the Mediterranean from Agde to Béziers
• the valley of the river Aude from Béziers to Carcassonne,
• the western section from Carcassonne to Toulouse.
The latter includes the broad, shallow valleys of the river Fresquel and then the river Hers, separated
almost unnoticeably by the summit of the canal at Naurouze. It was at Naurouze that Riquet
demonstrated his ingenuity and determination by creating, for the first time in canal-building history, a
system of feeder canals to bring water from the Black Mountains to supply the canal at the summit.
 roCan EuroCanals Guide: Canal du Midi
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest

Considered by many cruisers as the most pleasant canal in all of Europe,

PARIS
the Canal du Midi offers a long cruising season amid typical Meditterreanean
landscape of vineyards, cypresses, pine trees and glorious flowers. Historic
towns and cities are separated by areas of exhilarating natural beauty.
The oval locks, stone arch bridges and aqueducts are all part of the charm
of this important and popular route.
Toulouse
Ramonville-St Agne

Montgiscard
Canal du Rhône
Seuil (sill) de Naurouze: à Séte
Negra Watershed between Atlantic & Mediterranean Étang de Thau
Altitude = 189.43 meters Sète
Port Lauragais le Segala Le Grand Bief Béziers Marseillan
Castelnaudary (see next page) Capestang

Villepinte Port-la-Robine
Agde
Homps Canal de Port
La Redorte jonction Cassafieres
Bram
Trebes Argens- Sallèles d’Aude
Carcassonne Minervois
Marseillette
La Cité
Canal de
Length: 240 km Season: Open all year la Robine
Number of Locks: 92 Locks operate:
Minimum Depth: 1.50 m 8:00 AM to 12:30 PM and 1:30 PM to: Narbonne
Port-la-Nouvelle
Minimum Height: 5:30 PM Jan, Feb, Mar, Nov, Dec
center: 3.30 m 6:00 PM Oct, 6:30 PM Apr, Sep
at 5.5 m: 2.40 m 7:00 PM May, 7:30 PM Jun, Jul, Aug Charts: Mediterranean
Lock Size: 30 X 5.5 m Closed Easter Sunday, May 1, July 14, Navicarte #11
November 11 & Christmas day. Guide Vagnon #7 Sea
Branch to Port-la-Nouvelle: Most locks manual, Lock keeper present Guide Fluviaux EDB #7
Canal de jonction, 5 km, 7 locks (Check on the alternating up/down locking Map:
Canal de la Robine, 31 km, 6 locks schedule at Fonserannes, near Beziers) Michelin #235 & #240
 Le Grand Bief
This section is the "shoulder" of the canal, for at Béziers the canal ascends 24 meters (80 feet)
onto the shoulder of the foothills that look out onto first the coastal plain and then the valley
of the Aude. And it stays there, at exactly the same level, for 54 kilometers, from the top of the
Fonserannes locks to the next lock at Argens-Minervois.

This long pound with no locks is called Le grand bief (a bief is the reach of water between locks.)
To maintain this level requires that the canal twist and turn to follow the contour of the land.
For most of the distance the southern bank of the canal falls away to the valley below, offering
pleasant views from the boat out to the broad valley.
Béziers

Capestang Fonserannes
Argeliers locks
Colombiers
Poilhes Oppidum d’Enserune-
Tunnel de Malpas
Port la Robine

Le Somail
Ventenac en
Argens- Minervois
Minervois

Aude river (non-navigable)

 Elevations, Locks & Distances
Seuil (sill) de Naurouze:
Watershed between Atlantic & Mediterranean
Altitude = 189.43 meters

Elevation, meters
200 le Segala
Toulouse Castelnaudary
Negra
150 Montgiscard Canal du Midi
Castanet Bram
Carcassonne
100
Trebes

Homps Port-
50 la-Robine Capestang
Argens Beziers
Agde
0
0 km 16 25 33 54 65 81 105 118 145 152 168 188 208 km 240
Number of Locks:
0 5 9 13 21 29 47 53 60 74 79 79 79 86 92

Elevation, meters
35

30 Port-la-Robine
25

20

15
Canal de jonction
10 0 Narbonne
5 Canal de la Robine
0
PPort-la-Nouvelle (Med)
Coastal Plain: from the Med to the foothills
Our trip begins near the eastern end of the Canal du Midi, at Agde, a seaport city where the Herault
river and the Canal du Midi meet in an unusual round lock, with three gates. The canal crosses the
river here and continues northeast another 8 km to Marseillan and the broad salt-water lagoon bassin
de Thau (also called Étang du Thau.) Although rented boats are prohibited, privately owned vessels
with experienced skippers can travel down the Herault to enter the Med at the Grau d'Agde.

Heading westward, the canal follows the edge of the sea, just one kilometer inland. A popular base
for self-skippered rental boats (Crown Blue Line) is located a short distance west of Agde at Port
Cassafières. Leaving the Mediterranean coastline behind, the route then turns north to cross the plain
between parallel rows of large, old plane (sycamore) trees. There is an interesting stop here for the
purchase of wine, a vintners' cooperative that operates on the steel barge (péniche) Douce France.
The wines are local and, as with other cave cooperative locations along the canal, you will not find
them sold elsewhere. It's a great place to buy enjoyable wines inexpensively.

Ahead are the foothills of the Black Mountains; the canal skirts around the base of the city of
Béziers, whose streets rise steeply to the Saint-Nazaire Cathedral and the Jardin du plateau des
poètes (Garden of the Poets Plateau), a shady place for a pleasant walk. Although the port is lively
and offers several restaurants, don't let the climb dissuade you from a visit to an interesting city.
Arriving or departing guests will find the rail station just a short walk from the port.

Leaving the port at Béziers, the canal ascends 6.19 meters (20 feet) in a single lock at the western end
of the port, and then turns sharply left to cross high above the river Orb on a superb six-arch stone
aqueduct, with great views of both the city above and the river valley below.
Béziers is a major city near the eastern end of the Midi, with a
modern full-service port, and TGV train service from Paris.
Béziers is a popular spot for wintering, many of the boats shown below are
moored here for the entire winter. This photo shows the range of vessels which
travel on the canals: small sailboats, cruisers, small barges, large barges.
It is possible to live aboard with kids, even in an 8-meter boat!
On the western edge of Béziers is the staircase
of Fonserannes, six connected locks that raise
the canal 13.60 meters (45 feet.) Novice
boaters should be both careful and calm here,
for the process can get a little hectic and the
site is a tourist attraction, so there will often be
spectators and willing (but perhaps not
competent) helpers at the locks. Locking-
through the entire ladder requires only about an
hour, as the full sequence continues once begun
and the lockkeeper will often open two locks
together when boats are locking-up. Check on
the up-and-down schedule (one time period
each way in both morning and afternoon)
before arriving here.

In this photo, two of the intermediate gates are

open. To raise boats, each set is closed and the
lock basins are filled, although sometimes
when boats are ascending the lock-keeper will
fill two basins at once, saving time.

If you are waiting for your turn at the locks,

take a look at the amazing inclined-plane
boatlift (for barges too large for the locks) that
parallels the Echelle; a large motorized gate
pushes a wedge of water up the slope, lifting
the huge barge with it.
 Central Section:
above the valley of the Aude

The Canal du Midi is known as the route of

the stone arch bridges. Here is an especially
beautiful example, the Pont de Pigasse.
A section of Le Grand Bief, looking west.
The valley of the Aude river is on the left.
Colombiers is the first of a series of pleasant towns along Le grand
bief. A popular village and port for both short and long-term stays;
adjoining the old village is a modern harbor and shopping center.
The shady south-side bank of the canal offers excellent mooring at
the foot of the village.
Colombiers: The port is a
modern full-service marina and
rental boat base. Mooring
without services is possible
along the canal to the east
(beyond the blue barge.)
 A distinctive feature of the Midi is the oval shape of some lock walls; the arced shape is
stronger than a straight wall would be. This is the Raonel lock on the Canal de la Robine.
Here the canal crosses one of the many pont canal (canal bridge) on the Canal du Midi.
The narrow portion of the canal is an aqueduct, seen in the next photo from the side.
Pierre Paul Riquet, the creator of this
canal in the late 17th century, solved
many important canal design problems,
such as the crossing of streams by the
canal route. Silting often resulted when
he simply dammed the stream to make a
level crossing, so he created aqueducts
such as this to isolate the canal from the
streams.
 The only tunnel on the canal, Tunnel de Malpas, lies
at Pk (kilometer post) 199. Sometimes described as
the oldest canal tunnel in the world, it was dug by
Riquet's workmen in 1679-80 to allow the canal to
pass by the hill of Ensérune. The tunnel is 161 meters
long, 6 m wide X 5 m high; traffic in the tunnel is
one-way. On the west of the tunnel there is space to
tie up for a walk up the hill to visit the Oppidum
d'Ensérune, an archeological site and museum with
artifacts dating to 800 BC.
The village of Poilhes is a small, quiet place for a peaceful
stop. The port here is short but well located. Shops are nearby,
and the fine restaurant La Tour Sarasine is adjacent.
Capestang: The moorings are often full along both sides of the halte nautique
on the curve of the canal at the uphill side of this busy market town, but there is
always more space under the trees before and after the port, within easy
walking distance of the center of town. The view from the canal looks out
above the tile rooftops to the valley beyond, accentuated by the flags flying
from the tall stone towers of the church.
 Capestang has become a popular wintering port,
moorings are just a short walk from the town center. We
chatted with a couple from Amsterdam aboard their
Dutch barge permanently moored at the port, who told us
"We tied up here four years ago for a short stay, and here
we are, still here with no plans to leave."
The Canal de la Robine branches south from the
Midi in this section near Le Somail. Umbrella
pines are the prevalent trees of this area.
Port la Robine is a short dead-end marina, obviously very popular for wintering.
The hotel barge Sherborne winters nearby.
Le Somail - Every guidebook recommends a stop at this village, which is marked by its
beautiful stone arch bridge and ivy-covered walls. The Librairie Ancienne is famous for
the thousands of rare books, magazines, posters and prints offered for browsing (and for
sale) by Madame Gourgues. Mooring here requires some research into the local plan,
which sets aside space for the many hotel and dinner barges, rental boat fleets and
permanent live-aboard residents.
The port at Le Somail is used by hotel barges and a
small fleet of English narrowboats, along with the
more common canal cruisers and barges.
 Homps is another good town for a stay, either along the
quais in the center of this small town, or just beyond at a
newly-created marina with full services. The passerelle
(footbridge) offers easy access to the restaurants & shops.
Argens-Minervois: This typical town of the Minervois region,
surrounding a 14th century château, marks the western end of the long
pound (lock-free section) and the beginning of 58 locks in 98 kilometers
ascending to the summit of the watershed.
La Cité/Carcassonne

Carcassonne is exactly halfway between Béziers

and Toulouse; it is the destination for most hotel
barges that cruise the Midi, the end of a one-week
trip from Béziers. It is also the most popular stop
on the canal for holiday cruisers on rental boats
or private vessels. The busy port is immediately
adjacent to the railway station. Or moor at Trèbes
and visit by taxi.

Along with the full services available in this

commercial city (in the Ville Basse between the
canal and the river Aude), the attraction is La Cité, a fantastic fortified city atop a strategic hill
overlooking the newer town below as well as the valleys in all directions. This is the largest preserved
fortified city in Europe and, although the excellent preservation makes you wonder how it can be that
old, the ramparts date from the 3rd century A.D. Behind a dry moat and drawbridge, two stone walls
dotted with cylindrical guard posts and conical towers circle the city; the open areas between and just
outside these walls make an enjoyable walking or picnic area. Inside, narrow, winding cobbled streets
evoke the feeling of medieval times. There are restaurants and hotels within the walls and, if it is
souvenirs that you are looking for, you will find plenty available, for this is a major attraction visited
by busloads of European and international tourists.

There is a series of very beautiful photographs of Carcassonne (and Toulouse) at:

http://users.uj.edu.pl/~uogierli/france/10.html
Western Section: over the summit
At Carcassonne the character of the canal and its surroundings change markedly. The canal route
leaves the valley of the Aude and now travels through broad, shallow agricultural valleys to Toulouse.
The vineyards of Languedoc are left behind and the views across the gently sloping fields include the
tall, often snow-capped Pyrenees to the south and the Montagne Noire, the Black Mountains, to the
north.

There are several pleasant overnight stops

after leaving Carcassonne, but the first
significant village of interest is Bram, a
medieval village built in a circular plan
around the church. Shops are located on
the main circular street, a little more than
1 km south of the canal.

For a recommended restaurant that

features the regional cassoulet, travel 5
kilometers further west along the canal to
Villepinte and walk or call for a shuttle to
Aux Deux Acacias.
Castelnaudary is the largest city between Carcassonne and Toulouse and is the
headquarters of Crown Blue Line, one of the largest rental-boat systems in Europe.
Their base on the south side of the Grand Bassin (a large oval lake with an
attractive small island) looks across to a Mediterranean-style panorama of red-
roofed houses on a steep hillside. The bassin itself is unique, it is a reservoir built to
supply the four-lock ladder just downstream.
Crown Blue Line’s headquarters and Midi rental
base is at the port on the southern shore.
At Le Segala we met yet another live-aboard who came to visit and stayed,
moored along the canal bank, Judith Wilson, a British sailor who stopped
off here while bringing her 8-meter sailboat from England to the Med via
the Canaux des Deux Mers. She saw no need to move on and, needing
more space, eventually sold her sailboat and replaced it with a retired rental
boat from Crown Blue Line. There is not much to do in Le Segala, and
shopping is done from the vans which travel a route of villages, but there is
peace and quiet and, for Judith, no reason to leave.
 Where the water comes from (and goes)
West of Le Segala and its neighboring village La Bastide d'Anjou, the canal passes over the summit and
The water to operate locks must come from somewhere; the Canal du Midi is a classic example. A canal to
begins its descent to the Atlantic. Feeder
connect canals
the Atlantic from
Ocean with the Black Mountains
the Mediterannean supply
Sea was first water
described by theto the summit
Romans and was wanted
pound at Naurouze. The watershed point
by the early is not
kings obvious,
of France; Leonardoasdathe terrain
Vinci did somehere appears
planning nearly
in 1516. flat, butwasn't
But construction the possible
without a steady year-round supply of water to feed the canal. The canal was begun in the mid-1660s when
names of the locks give it away: Mediterranée on the east and Océan on the west. (Locks on the Canal
Pierre Paul Riquet devised a plan to bring water from the Black Mountains to the summit of the canal at
du Midi are identified by nameNaurouze,
only, not by number.)
by means There
of a 42 kilometer is aRigole
trench, pleasant park,From
de la Plaine. ColNaurouze
de Naurouze, withbe used to
the water could
large trees and grassy areas and, atop
supply thealocks
smallbothhill,
to thean
eastobelisk
and to the erected
west. A 70 in the (170
hectare mid-19th century
acre) reservoir, to honor
the Bassin de St-Ferréol,
was built to store the mountain water. This was such an uncertain venture at the time that Riquet was
Pierre-Paul Riquet, the creator forced
of the Canalthis
to finance dupart
Midi.
of the canal project himself.

Toulouse
The summit is also the border Montagne Noire
between the two Regions of Rigole
de la
France that the Canal du Midi Plaine Bassin de
St-Ferréol
traverses: Naurouze Castelnaudary Argens
Languedoc-Roussillon on the Trebes
east and Midi-Pyrénées on the Bief de partage Carcassonne
west. (summit pound)
Elevation, meters
200

150
Toulouse

All locks between Toulouse

100 and Carcasonne are supplied from Carcassonne
Naurouze*

50

0
Port Lauragais is unusual, it is a port for the
canal and a rest area for the A61 autoroute
combined. Other than the noise and bustle of
the highway traffic, it can be a pleasant stop.
The port of Ramonville-St Agne,
on the outskirts of Toulouse.
The major city of Toulouse hosts the last series of ports on the Canal du Midi. It is nicknamed La
Ville Rose for the prevalent pink/orangestonework. The bustle of a large city can be quite a shock
after the peaceful, beautiful travel along the canal, but it offers culture, history and a cosmopolitan
atmosphere, along with a wide range of restaurants, shops and nightlife. Air, rail and highway
connections are convenient. There are mooring quais in the center of the city at Port Saint-Saveur
or near the intersection of the Canal du Midi with the Canal latéral à la Garonne.
 Canal latéral
à la Garonne

Canal du Midi

Garonne river

Port Saint-Saveur
Port St Saveur is located near the center
of Toulouse, two blocks from Le Grand
Rond, a large park and traffic roundabout
for the major avenues of the city.
Canal de la Robine
A very beautiful and interesting route turns south to the Med from near the center of le grand bief at Pk
168. A side trip on the Canal de la Robine (the common name for the entire 31 km waterway, although
the first 5 km is officially the Canal de jonction) can mean cruising all the way to the sea at Port-la-
Nouvelle, a visit to the historic city of Narbonne, or simply a brief excursion and turn-around at
Sallèles-d'Aude.

Mediterranean
Sea
On a chart the Canal de jonction looks pretty dull;
it's a straight line, with only a slight kink and wider
area at Sallèles-d'Aude. But in fact it is a very
pleasant and enjoyable cruise. Both sides of the
canal are lined with umbrella pines, with plenty of
open space below to view the open fields. The locks
are automated, but that's only the mechanism; the
locks and the bridges continue the beautiful stone
construction found on the Midi.
 It can get a bit lively as boats go from the
Canal de jonction for a quick crossing of
the river Aude to enter the Canal de la
Robine. Skippers should check the chart
and plan the crossing, as the river flow will
Canal de jonction push the vessel toward shallow water and a
spillway on the downstream side.

Flow

River
Aude

Canal de la Robine
Canal travelers get the best view of Narbonne. First you arrive through a stone lock surrounded by
bright flowers, then pass under the Merchant's Bridge, one of the few bridges in France still lined with
shops and apartments (later while walking, check the view southward from the shop window in the
center of the bridge.) Finally, you can moor below street level at stone quays, with a grassy, well-
landscaped wide park above. The stalls and cafes in Les Halles, a beautiful Victorian building in the
classic French city market style, can fill provisioning needs quite well. It's a place to snack as you
shop, and then enjoy a good dinner aboard.

Visit the tourist office for guides to the historical sites of the city. Although few canal travelers
continue past Narbonne to the sea, it's an opportunity to enjoy vistas of salt-water lagoons, low seaside
vegetation and the blue water of the Med. In addition to plentiful natural sights to be seen from the
boat, a nature reserve with seven kilometers of walking trails has been created on Ile St-Lucie.

Finally, the scene changes to the bustling shipping and fishing harbor at Port-la-Nouvelle. Here,
visiting boats can moor for visits to the beach or dinner at seafood restaurants.

For boats crossing the entire length of the Canaux des Deux Mers, this is an alternate, shorter route
than staying on the Midi to Agde. For other canal visitors, it can be a very pleasant extension of the
cruise.
Narbonne is the main city
on the Canal de la Robine.
Boats enter under a bridge
of shops and apartments,
into the port and market
area beyond.
Narbonne is also an excellent wintering port, located right in the
center of the city. Moorings are available adjacent to shops and
restaurants, or only a short distance away in this residential area.
 a
uroC na EuroCanals Guide: Canal du Midi
E

ls
Useful Addresses Restaurants Others cruise between:
VNF – Service Navigation: Ave. du Prado (Restaurants with no address shown are Homps & Marseillan (near Agde) Athos
Pont Rouge, 34500 BEZIERS located adjacent to the canal.) Homps & Castelnaudary Fandango
Tel 04 67 11 81 30 Castelnaudary & Carcassonne Isatis
Béziers, La Storia, 8 rue de l’Argenterie.
VNF – Service Navigation: 9, quai Tel 04.67.28.18.11
d’Alsace, 11100 NARBONNE
Tel 04 68 32 02 35
Colombiers, Château de Colombiers, Self-Skippered Boat Rentals
Tel 04.67.37.06.93 These companies (telephone) operate over
VNF – Service Navigation: Ecluse 300 rental boats from bases at these towns:
Poilhes, La Tour Sarrasine,
Fresquel, Pont Rouge, 11000 CARCAS-
Tel 04.67.93.41.31 Agde
SONNE, Tel 04 68 25 01 50
FPP 03.85.53.76.70
La Croisade, Auberge de la Croisade,
VNF – Service Navigation: 115, rue Nautic 04.67.94.78.93
Tel 04.67.89.36.36
Amidonniers, 31000 TOULOUSE
Tel 05 62 15 11 91 Port Cassafières
Argeliers, Au Chat qui Pêche,
Crown Blue Line 04.68.94.52.72
Tel 04.68.46.28.74
Comité Départemental de Tourisme
de la Haute-Garonne, BP 845, 14 rue Béziers
Homps, Auberge de l’Arbousier,
Bayard, 31015 TOULOUSE Cédex 6., Amicatours 04.67.62.18.18
Tel 04.68.91.11.24
Tel 05.61.99.44.00, Fax 05.61.99.44.19 Colombiers
www.cdt-haute-garonne.fr Carcassonne, (port) Le Badiane,
Rive de France 01.41.86.01.01
Tel 04.68.25.07.24
Le Somail
(La Cité) Brasserie du Donjon,
Rail Stations Minervois Cruisers 04.68.96.28.52
4 rue Porte d’Aude. Tel 04.68.25.95.72
Agde Nicols 02.41.56.46.56
Béziers Villepinte, Aux Deux Acacias, RN113,
Argens
Narbonne Tel 04.68.94.24.67 (shuttle)
locaboat plaisance 03.86.91.72.72
Trèbes Castelnaudary, Hôtel du Centre et du
Carcassonne Homps
Lauragais, 31Cours de la République.
Castelnaudary CamarguePlaisance 04.67.50.77.00
Tel 04.68.23.25.95
Toulouse Connoisseur 03.84.64.95.20
Le Segala (La Bastide d’Anjou), FPP 03.85.53.76.70
Hostellerie Etienne, Tel 04.68.60.10.08 Luc Lines 03.86.81.67.87
Hotels (shuttle)
Trèbes
Béziers, Château de Lignan, Place de Villefranche-de-Lauragais, Hôtel de Connoisseur 03.84.64.95.20
l’Eglise, 34490 LIGNAN-sur-Orb, France, 106 rue de la République.
Tel 04.67.37.91.47, Fax 04.67.37.99.25 Carcassonne
Tel 05.61.81.62.17
FPP 03.85.53.76.70
Ornaisons (in Corbières, midway Toulouse – For a guide to many restau- Nautic 04.67.94.78.93
between Béziers & Carcassonne), Le rants, contact CDT at the address under
Relais du Val d’Orbieu, D24, 2 km S. of Bram
Useful Addresses.
hwy RN113, 11200 ORNAISONS, Castel Nautique 06.81.95.07.37
Tel 04.68.27.10.27, Fax 04.68.27.52.44 Nicols 02.41.56.46.56

Carcassonne, Hôtel de la Cité, Place de Castelnaudary

Hotel Barges
l’Eglise, 11000 Carcassonne, Crown Blue Line 04.68.94.52.72
Eight hotel barges cruise between
Tel 04.68.71.98.71, Fax 04.68.71.50.15 Béziers & Carcassonne: Le Segala
Toulouse – For a guide to many hotels, Anjodi Roi Soleil Rive de France 01.41.86.01.01
contact CDT at the address under Useful Avenir Sherborne
Negra
Addresses. Caroline Tango
locaboat plaisance 03.86.91.72.72
Clair de Lune LaTortue
Toulouse
FPP 03.85.53.76.70
Navicanal 05.61.55.10.91
Sunshine Cruise Line 06.10.28.88.08
Narbonne
Connoisseur 03.84.64.95.20

Booking Agencies
France Afloat
1 Quai du Port, 89270 VERMENTON
tel/fax 03 86 81 67 87
 Canal du Nivernais

Canal du Nivernais (top)

Yonne river (bottom)
at Mailly-le-Château
 roCan EuroCanals Guide: Canal du Nivernais
u

als
E
Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest
The Canal du Nivernais was constructed in the early 19th century
to connect Paris, via the Seine and the Yonne, with the River Loire. PARIS
It winds southward from Auxerre to Decize through the vineyards
and farmlands of Burgundy, often framed by spectacular limestone cliffs. AUXERRE

DECIZE
St. Florentin
To River Seine Migennes
& PARIS (157 km) River Canal de Bourgogne
Yonn
e

Chablis
AUXERRE
Irancy Length: 174 km
Vincelles Cravant Number of locks: 110
Vermenton Seine side 78
Mailly-le-Chateau Loire Side 32
Accolay
Merry-sur-Yonne All locks manual,
Coulanges-sur-Yonne lockkeeper present
Chatel-Censoir
Lucy-sur-Yonne Season: April 1 - October 31
Locks Open: 0800-1200 &
CLAMECY
Vezelay 1300-1900
HOTEL BARGES generally travel a route Locks Closed: Easter
between Auxerre & Clamecy, Tannay May 1
one week cruise in either direction. July 14
Chitry-les-Mines
CORBIGNY Minimum Depth:
Sardy-les-Epiry Auxerre-Clamecy 1.4 meters
Baye Clamecy-Decize 1.2 meters
Copyright 2000 EuroCanals 3 tunnels Minimum Height: 2.7 meters
(summit of canal) Minimum Lock Size:
Chatillon-en-Bazois Generally 38.5 m X 5.2 m
except Sardy to Cercy-la-Tour
Riv 30.5 m X 5.2 m
er
Loi CHARTS:
re
Navicarte #7
To NEVERS DECIZE Cercy-la-Tour
(30 km)
Guide Vagnon #3
Cana Guide Fluvial #2
l late MAP:
ral a
la Lo Michelin #238
ire
Centre Berry-Nivernais

Elevation, meters Baye

160
Chatillon-en-Bazois
120
Sardy-les-Epiry
80 Cercy-la-Tour Tannay
Decize
Clamecy
40 Chatel Censoir
Vermenton
Auxerre
0
0 16 Kilometers 52 70 74 98 114 133 153 174

#35 #30 #14 #1 #17 #38 #47 #57 #70 #81

LOCK NUMBERS start at the summit (Baye); count south to the Loire and north toward the Seine. Some #s are skipped.
A Spring Cruise on the Nivernais
We sat at a table outside Auberge du Canal, the only café in Sardy-les-Epiry, thoroughly enjoying
our deux pressions, cold, wet, and golden draft pilsners. My wife Carol and I had just completed the
last day of our cruise on a self-skippered rental boat. During the day we had been through 15 locks
and one manual lift-bridge (of 56 locks and 6 lift-bridges on the trip) taking us up the mountain to
deliver Lucy to the Burgundy Cruisers' base at Sardy-les-Epiry, ending our week on the Canal du
Nivernais. It had been a long day, we felt almost as if we had pulled the boat up at the end of a rope.

The beginning of the chain of

16 locks above Sardy
We had previously lost a day of travel to the May Day holiday and were left with over 25% of the locks
yet to pass through on the final day. The day had started smoothly but progress came quickly to a halt
when I put the boat in gear to exit the second lock of the day; the boat wouldn't move forward or back.
The lock-keeper and several lock maintenance men who happened to be there helped us pull the barge
out of the lock with lines and stake it to the canal bank. One of the lock crew used his cell phone to call
the main base of Burgundy Cruisers at Vermenton. They promised that a mechanic would arrive by car
to help us within 45 minutes. Our boat is temporarily stranded; fellow travelers wish us Good Luck!
As promised, the mechanic arrived quickly and we were soon underway again.
A cruise like ours on the scenic, peaceful Canal du Nivernais as it winds gently through Burgundy is a
good choice for an initial experience on the French canals. The beautiful city of Auxerre, at the
northern end of the canal, is only 157 km (97 miles) southeast of Paris and can easily be reached by
autoroute or rail. Several rental boat operators based here or at nearby villages can furnish a barge or
powerboat to suit almost any taste and size of party.
The Nivernais stretches 174 km (108 miles) through the farms, vineyards, orchards and forests of the
Yonne, Cure and Aron valleys before joining the river Loire. There is almost no commercial traffic, or
boats passing through to other canals (shallow water depths limit the craft that can use the canal.) A
week of slowly drifting through the heart of the French countryside, visiting the villages and vineyards,
dining in the fine local restaurants or onboard after shopping at an open-air market, then relaxing while
in command of your own craft is a perfect introduction to this intriguing lifestyle.
Before setting out on the cruise, a walking tour of the cobbled streets of Auxerre sets the stage for the
French culture and lifestyle to be experienced in the coming week. The spires of the Cathedral of St.
Etienne and the Abbey of St. Germain dominate the city, which sits upon both sides of the river Yonne.
The abbey is well known for its frescoes dating from the 9th century. Located along the waterfront are
shops and open-air cafes; wine tasting of the local Chardonnay and Cremant is a good way to start an
onboard supply of wine for the trip.
We took the local train for the 22 km trip to Vermenton to pick up our rental boat at Burgundy
Cruisers (other boat-rental companies operate at Auxerre, so the same cruise can be based from
there.) Leslie of Burgundy Cruisers met us at the rail station, although with less luggage we could
easily have walked the short distance to the port. Two British couples own Burgundy Cruisers; we
completed the details of our rental with Mike Gardner-Roberts, husband of Leslie, then we were
shown the details of the barge Lucy by Mike's sister (and business partner) Zoe Adams. We were
fitted for rental bikes that we loaded aboard. Because Zoe considered us experienced canal-boaters,
she sent us off alone toward the first lock at Accolay. If we had felt uncertain, she would have
accompanied us on this first leg of the trip.

Leaving the port at Vermenton for the short run to the main canal.
Lucy is a Burgundy 900 steel barge (9 meters X 3.25 m; 30 ft X 11 ft.) Two of us were very
comfortable on a one-week cruise (the dinette can be converted into another berth for two.) The
forward cabin provides a large single berth and a small single berth. Large enclosed shelves above the
berths and lockers underneath offer more than enough storage.
Lucy is part of a small fleet of steel boats built in England to Burgundy Cruisers' specifications. The
hull is fitted with heavy-duty rubber strips all-around, eliminating the need for loose fenders. While
any good captain and crew will try to operate the boat smoothly, even a hard knock against a lock
wall will result in no damage. The exterior design of the cabin is squared-off and blocky, but the look
is functional and drew several favorable comments during our trip. The comfortable spaces in the
lower cabins and a large flat sunspace on the front deck are the result of this design.

A roomy head to starboard includes the sink and toilet; a comfortable dressing cabin with stall
shower and hanging locker is located across the passageway. The layout of the lower deck means
plenty of room for two. The salon includes the helm station, dinette and galley, with double doors
opening onto the cockpit. The galley extends the full length of the starboard side of the salon and is
equipped with refrigerator, full-size sink, 4-burner range and oven and lots of counter and cabinet
space. Large windows and a sunroof mean excellent light and ventilation; full curtains are available
for privacy. The cockpit is adequate for two folding chairs at cocktail or coffee time.

Burgundy Cruisers' fleet consists of three types of boats:

Burgundy 900 (Lucy) & the 1200, similar to the Lucy but 12 meters long and featuring the addition
of an aft cabin with its own shower and toilet; this boat would be ideal for two couples.
Viking 800 & 1000; fiberglass motor cruisers suitable for groups of 2 to 6.
Euro Classic 128 & 149; for groups of 6 or 8, these boats offer more space, more cabins and added
features such as air conditioning, bow thruster and external steering.
Prices will vary with the boat selected, the season (BC offers five price periods between April &
October) and the rate of exchange. The cost of the cruise described in this issue was:
Boat Rental, $805; One-way supplement, $80; Rent 2 bikes, $50; Fuel, $63.
For exact prices and availability, contact: Burgundy Cruisers, 1 Quai du Port, 89270 Vermenton,
France. Tel 1-33-3-86-81-67-87, Fax 1-33-3-86-81-52-81, www.franceafloat.com
e-mail boats@franceafloat.com
The canal follows the river Yonne upstream from Auxerre to Sardy-les-Epiry; sometimes the waterway
is the natural river, but more often a canal has been created alongside. With the heavy spring flow in
early May, progress upstream in the river was slow. Even in the canal, we traveled at six km per hour.
Hikers on the towpath could often walk on ahead. Barge passengers and crew do this for exercise or to
arrive at the next lock early, ready to take a line from the boat.
The frequent locks and manual lift-
bridges on the Nivernais make
travel slow. In six days we cruised
84 km (52 miles), passed through
56 locks and operated 6 lift-
bridges. Each lock or lift-bridge
requires 15 to 20 minutes; we spent
nearly 18 hours of our trip in locks
and lift-bridges.

We ended our week-long cruise

just short of the flight of 16 locks
that lead from Sardy up to the three
tunnels at the summit of the canal
near Baye. That would have been
another very busy day, although
there are several very pleasant
spots to moor between locks, so a
two-day passage from Sardy to
Baye is possible.
We operated six do-it-yourself bridges. The boat must stop before the bridge
and a crewmember disembarks to open the bridge with a crank handle, a slow
and very physical process. After passing through, the bridge must be lowered
again so that local users (primarily farmers and fishermen) can cross the canal.
Text
Ten kilometers upriver from Vermenton rocky limestone cliffs occasionally begin to
appear along the canal. Mailly-le-Chateau is located at the highest of these cliffs; stone
steps lead from the lower part of the village to bourg du haut at the top of the cliff,
where the view is worth every step of the climb. Two locks and six kilometers further
on, Merry-sur-Yonne is a good place to spend some time. Scenic rocky cliffs called
Les Saussois form vertical limestone sausages very popular with rock climbers.
A long bank of the river is suitable for tying-up. Several restaurants serve boaters and climbers.
Late July on the Nivernais; two boats exit the lock at Chatel Censoir while three more wait to enter.
There is a port with water & electricity just to the right of the lock.
The three northbound boats are now on their way. The town of Chatel Censoir offers shops and
restaurants on the lower level and a classic Burgundian village on the hilltop.
We lost one day of travel tied to the bank in front of a lock
with no lock-keeper. Being Americans, we never thought
about the May 1 holiday; in France everything is closed,
including the locks. The heron standing at the lock
was of no help!
On the Nivernais, as on most canals in France, it is permitted to tie up anywhere along the bank
(except on tight curves and other places that might impede the safe passage of other boats.)
We were lucky to spend two nights and a day with this view from the port side of our boat. The
Château de Faulin is a working farm. The vast yellow fields are prevalent in this section of
Burgundy. They are growing not mustard, as we had assumed, but rape seed, grown for the
production of colza cooking oil.
We found the lock-keeper hard at work in his garden,
and the wash on the line. No matter, we were stopped in
a beautiful, peaceful place and went for a long walk.
The hotel barge Liberté passes by our mooring; passengers are walking the towpath.
Rental boats are equipped with metal stakes
and a large hammer. It is illegal to tie to trees.
Most boats also have a metal or wooden
gangplank available.
Clamecy is a popular stop, the southern end of the route for hotel barges. It’s a small city with full
services and shops; we used the port to stock up on provisions and water but moved on to moor in a
remote wooded spot a few kilometers on.
A typical canalized section, showing the walls installed along the banks.
Early mornings were usually misty in the river
valley. This was an excellent mooring quai at
Marcilly-sur-Yonne, our last night before
arrival at Sardy to turn in the boat.
The French word for lock is Écluse. There are two sections of the Canal du Nivernais; the locks are
numbered each way from the summit: versant de la Seine or versant de la Loire.
We could have planned another week and climbed the series of
“old locks” to the summit.
The approach to the summit tunnel; note the red light,
it’s a one-boat-at-a-time passage.
The entrance of the tunnel, the end of the Yonne/Seine side of the Nivernais.
 E uroCana
ls
Useful Addresses
Service Navigation du Canal du
Nivernais, 2 rue au Loup, 58800
CORBIGNY – Tel 03.86.20.13.23
Office de Tourisme de
L’Auxerrois, 1-2 quai de la Republique,
89000 AUXERRE– Tel 03.86.52.06.19, fax
03.86.51.23.27, www.ipoint.fr/auxerre
Hotels
Le Parc des Marechaux, 6 ave. Foch,
89000 AUXERRE Tel 03.86.51.43.77, fax
03.86.51.31.72
Chateau de Lantilly,
58800 CORBIGNY Tel 03.86.20.01.22,
fax 03.86.20.24.29
Hotel du Morvan, Tannay Port, 58190
TANNAY – Tel 03.86.29.82.20
Shopping, Markets
Shops are generally closed Mondays
and every day from noon till mid-after-
noon (shop early.)
Towns with tous commerces (all
shops), also regional market days:
Auxerre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Tues/Fri
Champs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None
Vincelles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Wed
Cravant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sat
Vermenton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fri
Chatel Censoir . . . . . . . . . . . Thurs
Coulanges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . None
Clamecy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sat
Corbigny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fri
Chatillon en Bazois . . . . . . . Thurs
Cercy la Tour. . . . . . . . . . . . . 2nd/4th Th
Decize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Fri
Sites off the canal
Chablis – The renowned wine region
is only 18 km east of Auxerre.
Vineyards at Irancy – A pictur-
esque wine village of Burgundy; 3 km
east from Vincelottes (walk or bike.)
Basilica of St. Madeleine, near
Vezelay – A superb example of
Romanesque architecture, designated a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Taxi from
Chatel Censoir or Coulanges-sur-Yonne.
Bazoches du Morvan – A medieval
EuroCanals Guide: Canal du Nivernais
chateau built in the 12th century; Taxi
from Corbigny.
Ferme de Misery – 18th century
farm estate offering Foie Gras tasting,
at Lucy-sur-Yonne.
Restaurants
At Auxerre, Michelin recommends
Barnabet, 14 Quai de la Republique.
Tel 03 86 51 68 88
Vezelay; just down the eastern side
of the village at St Pere-sous-Vezelay is
one of the great restaurants of France,
Marc Meneau’s L’Esperance.
Tel 03 86 33 39 10
Vincelottes; visit Alain Renaudin’s
Auberge les Tilleuls. Tel 03 86 42 22 13
Vermenton; Auberge de l’Esperance
Tel 03 86 81 50 42
Mailly-le-Chateau; Le Castel in
bourg du haut. Tel 03 86 81 43 06
Coulanges; Hotel du Lion d’Or
Tel 03 86 81 71 72
Clamecy; Hotel de la Poste
Tel 03 86 27 01 55
Corbigny; Le Marode
Tel 03 86 20 13 55
Chatillon-en-Bazois; Aub. de la
Hotel de France Tel 03 86 84 13 10
Cercy-la-Tour, Val d’Aron
Tel 03 86 50 59 66
Notes: Take along a highway map
such as the Michelin #238 (France:
Centre, Berry-Nivernais) to check
towns and sites further off the canal
than are shown on the strip chartbooks
of the canal, necessarily limited to just
a few kilometers off the canal.
Recycling bins are available at
many locations, especially useful for
wine bottles.
A cooperative group markets the
restaurants and regional products of
Burgundy in a brochure titled
L’Assiette de Pays. Seven areas of
Burgundy are featured, each with sev-
eral member restaurants; they offer
several specialty assiettes (plates) uti-
lizing local products. A copy of the
brochure is available by mail from
Pays d’Accueil Touristique du Canal du
Nivernais, Maison du Bazois, 58110
ALLUY, France. Tel 03 86 84 05 66,
fax 03 86 84 13 30.
Self-Skippered Boat Rentals
Self-skippered boats are available from
the bases listed below; to contact the
operators or their agents, consult the
listings in the EuroCanals Guide or go
to our website for updates:
www.eurocanals.com.
Town Base
Migennes . . . . . . . Connoisseur
St. Florentin . . . . Rive de France
Auxerre . . . . . . . . Aquarelle
Vincelles . . . . . . . . Vincelles Nautique
Vermenton . . . . . . Burgundy Cruisers
Chatel Censoir . . Connoisseur
Tannay . . . . . . . . . Crown Blue Line
Corbigny . . . . . . . Locaboat Plaisance
Baye . . . . . . . . . . . Aqua Fluvial
Chatillon-Bazois. France Passion
Plaisance
Decize . . . . . . . . . . Crown Blue Line
Hotel Barges
Hotel barges with itineraries on the
Canal du Nivernais are listed below.
They generally travel between Auxerre
and Clamecy (size limitations prevent
further travel to the south.) To book
travel on one of these barges, contact
their agents as listed in the
EuroCanals Guide or go to our web-
site for updates: www.eurocanals.com.
Barge Name Passengers
Elisabeth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
La Belle Epoque . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
L’Art de Vivre. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Liberte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Luciole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Penelope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Booking Agencies (France)
Bateaux de Bourgogne
1-2 Quai de la Republique,
89000 AUXERRE
Tel 03 86 72 92 10, fax 03 86 72 92 14
France Afloat
1 Quai du Port, 89270 VERMENTON
Tel/fax 03 86 81 67 87
 roCan
als
Eu
The Canals & Rivers of Paris
Visitors to Paris have certainly seen, and probably been aboard, the many tourist
boats that cruise continuously along the Seine in the area between the Eiffel
Tower and Ile St. Louis. For a more relaxing, intimate view of Paris, consider a
half-day or full-day trip on the little-known canals created at the order of
Napoleon I in 1802 or on the Seine and Marne Rivers through the nearby suburbs.
The Paris office of this newsletter is
located just about halfway along the
4.5 km (2.8 miles) Canal Saint-
Martin. Tour boats, commercial
barges and pleasure boats enter the
canal from the Seine just upstream
(southeast) of Ile St. Louis, passing
through a lock into Arsenal Marina. At
the northern end of the marina, the
canal goes directly under Place de la
Bastille as it begins a 2 km tunnel sec-
tion. The boulevards pass overhead
unseen and unheard, as the only
breaks in the stone and concrete arch
of the tunnel roof are skylights locat-
ed every 60 meters, opening into
flower beds of the parks above, that
allow light and air into the tunnel.
Leaving the tunnel, boats are lifted by
the first set of double locks into a
small but very pleasant park used by
the neighborhood of the 10th
arrondissement. Several cast-iron or
steel footbridges arch over the canal
as it continues north; two swing-
bridges for cross-street traffic open to
allow the boats through. After two
more sets of double locks, the canal
opens into the wide Bassin de la
Villette, a port for visiting boats and
the northern base for canal tours.
To return to the Seine downstream
of the city of Paris, boats turn north-
west on the Canal Saint-Denis, a 6.6
km (4 miles) stretch of industrial ware-
houses and unloading wharves for bulk
materials. If you have traveled into
Paris from Charles de Gaulle airport
you may have noticed this canal as the
highway and rail line pass over it just
north of the Stade de France (the mod-
ern-style stadium that is a landmark on
October 2000
Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe
the way into the city.) Tour boats do
not travel the Canal St. Denis, as it is
far from scenic; it is used primarily by
commercial barges with destinations
there or by commercial and private
boats wishing to shorten their trip
through Paris.
A much more beautiful cruise can be
found on the Canal de l’Ourcq, which
connects with the intersection of the
other two canals near Bassin de la
Villette and continues for 108 km (67
miles) into the woodlands northeast of
Paris. The basin was built as the desti-
nation of water brought into Paris by
the river l’Ourcq, which was canalized
for efficient transport of water. The
commentators on tour boats tell the
story that the residents of Paris had
access to only 100 liters of water per
person per day; the construction of the
canal, financed by a tax on wine,
increased the supply to 400 liters per
day. So the residents of Paris can thank
wine for their water. Nowadays the
water is used only for non-potable pur-
poses, such as the daily washdown of
streets. The supply of water from
l’Ourcq can be supplemented when
needed by operating the historic pump-
ing station at Trilbardou, which raises
water 12 meters from the Marne River
near the village of Meaux (although the
Canal de l’Ourcq and the Marne are
very close at this point, there is no nav-
igable connection due to the elevation
difference and the fact that the canal
was built for the transport of water and
firewood into the city; boats traveling
through to other destinations navigate
on the Marne.)
Two companies, Canauxrama and
www.eurocanals.com
Paris Canal, operate tours on the
Canal St. Martin and the Seine & Marne
rivers; Canauxrama also offers a cruise
on the Canal de l’Ourcq. We have trav-
eled with both companies and
recommend either one, as both provide
comfortable and exceptionally clean
facilities with competent multi-lingual
guides. Their itineraries are slightly dif-
ferent, so choose the one that best fits
your interest and sightseeing plans.
(Departure points and times vary with
the season and the number of reserva-
tions, so call the numbers shown at the
end of this article to check before you
make your plans; don’t hesitate to ask
about a departure that is not listed in
this article or in their brochures, as
extra trips are sometimes added if a
group reserves a large number of pas-
sengers and you may be able to join
the trip.)
Canauxrama offers several 2 1⁄2-hour
tours of the Canal St. Martin, traveling
one-way between the Port de
Plaisance Paris-Arsenal (Arsenal
Marina) and the Bassin de la Villette,
departing at 9:45 AM or 2:30/2:45 PM.
The return trip is on your own, howev-
er metro and bus stops are close-by
either end of the route. The marina
itself is an interesting place for a walk
or a rest in the well-landscaped park
located along the eastern side. Boats
from many European countries can
usually be seen docked here; they
often range from million-dollar yachts
to the smallest runabout or live-aboard
houseboat. This marina is popular with
visiting boaters because there is a
metro stop at each end or it is only a
short walk to either the Bastille or
Marais districts.
Paris Canal also operates Canal St.
Martin cruises (3 hours) from the
Bassin de la Villette but their southern
base is at a dock in front of the Musee
d’Orsay on the Left Bank of the Seine
across from Place de la Concorde (clos-
est metro is Solferino.) This means that
you will also see many of the major
sights along the Seine, including the
Louvre, Pont Neuf, Notre Dame and Ile
St. Louis before entering the Arsenal
Page 5
 Can Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe
E uro a
ls
Marina for the trip along the Canal St. Marne for a trip further upstream to
Martin. The cost is only slightly higher Perreux (this is the route used by boats
(100 francs vs. 80 francs, about $3 traveling through to Nancy and from
more) than the Canauxrama excursion; there to the Mosel and Rhine rivers.)
again the return trip is on your own. If Both of these trips are along the wood-
you are lucky, your commentator will ed banks of the Marne as it winds
be Steve Zade, a British ex-pat with a through several pleasant suburbs
very entertaining style delivered in both southeast of Paris.
French and English. Sometimes Steve Each Marne cruise includes a two-
will play his clarinet while the boat hour stop for lunch ashore; the boat
passes through the tunnel, an experi- will dock adjacent to a restaurant, or
ence described memorably several passengers can bring their own “pique-
years ago by Frank Prial, wine critic for nique”. (On all of the cruises described
the New York Times. (On any of these in this article, coffee, soft drinks and
cruises, be sure to request English com- water are available for purchase on the
boat.) When on the
Paris Canal cruise,
CDG energetic passengers
Airport
can walk uphill about
one kilometer into
the village of Creteil
Canal St Denis and find a charming
Seine
village center (very
Canal de l’Ourcq surprising to anyone
Bassin de la Villette who has driven
through Creteil on
Canal their way into Paris)
PARIS St Martin with both an excel-
Musee lent boulanger-
d'Orsay
Arsenal patisserie and char-
Marina cuterie and make
Marne
their own lunch to
Perreux eat in the pleasant
park across the
street.
Seine A day-long excur-
Chennevieres sion with
Canauxrama for 40
mentary if the guide has not recognized km (25 miles) on the Canal de l’Ourcq
the need for it; one of the advantages of is quite a different experience because,
these trips is that the commentary is after the first hour, the canal becomes
always live, not on tape.) very narrow and shallow; only small
Both companies offer full-day round boats can travel here, where the city is
trips (usually weekends only) from left behind and the canal is surrounded
their southern base (Musee d’Orsay or by trees, ferns and vines. The Pierre-
Arsenal Marina) up the Seine and onto Simon Girard is a boat built especially
the Marne River. Paris Canal calls for this route: it is narrow, only four
theirs Croisiere de la boucle de la seats and an aisle wide, and uses water-
Marne, a cruise around the loop (buck- jet propulsion rather than a propeller
le) of the Marne to the end of because the water depth is only 0.8
navigation at Chennevieres, passing meter (about 2 1⁄2 ft.) A few miles to the
through the large locks of St. Maurice north of the canal is Charles de Gaulle
and Creteil. Canauxrama’s excursion is airport and not far away to the south is
similar except that, after passing Paris Disney, but on the canal you
through the St. Maurice lock, the route would never know that you are near
cuts across the narrowest point of the anything but farms, woodlands and two
loop along a short canal and rejoins the small villages, Claye-Souilly and
October 2000 www.eurocanals.com
Fresne. There is a brief incongruous
sight just beyond Claye-Souilly when
the TGV train wooshes overhead as the
boat passes under the rail bridge.
As with the Marne trips, a two-hour
stop at Claye-Souilly allows a leisurely
lunch at a restaurant or a picnic in a
quiet and shady park. Some passengers
elect to start out on foot to the next
lock 15 minutes ahead of the boat and
re-board 5 km later at Fresne, walking
along the towpath adjacent to the
canal; in season, wild blackberries are
available for the picking. The trip ends
at the lock at Vignely, where a waiting
chartered bus returns the passengers
to the Jean Jaures metro stop, near the
day’s starting point.
The Canal St. Martin and the Marne
can also be enjoyed as the first day of
a weeklong cruise on the hotel barge
Libellule, which departs early Sunday
morning from Bassin de la Villette
and travels down the canal to the
Arsenal Marina, where passengers can
disembark to visit the large outdoor
market at Bastille or visit Place des
Vosges in the Marais district. Later
Libellule follows the Seine and the
Marne to an overnight stop at Lagny
before continuing on to Epernay in
the Champagne region.
For those who might want to travel
these waterways in a self-skippered
boat, rentals are available from Ourcq
Loisirs at Bassin de la Villette or from
Sinope Evasion at Claye-Souilly. Even
a 3-day weekend on these waterways
would be an excellent diversion from
sometimes-hectic sightseeing.
Canauxrama: 13, quai de la Loire,
75019 PARIS. Tel 01.42.39.15.00 fax
01.42.39.11.24
Canal St. Martin tour, 80 FF; Marne
or Canal de l’Ourcq excursion, 200FF
Paris Canal: 19-21, quai de la Loire,
75019 PARIS. Tel 01.42.40.96.97 fax
01.42.40.77.30
Canal St. Martin tour, 100FF, Marne,
200FF
Libellule: book through agencies list-
ed in the EuroCanals Guide.
Ourcq Loisirs: 9, quai de la Loire,
75019 PARIS Tel /fax 01.42.40.82.10
Sinope Evasion: Claye-Souilly Tel
01.60.27.05.51
Page 6
 Le Rhône

The Rhône at Arles/Trinquetaille

 Dunkerque
The Rhône river is one of the major rivers of Europe, Calais

the only inland link between the English Channel/North Sea

and the Mediterranean Sea.
Le Havre

Reims

Epernay Nancy
Brest PARIS Strasbourg
St Malo

Montargis Colmar

Auxerre
Briare
Tours Dijon
Nantes
Nevers St Jean
de Losne

Rhône

If you look at the map of the waterways of France,

Alps
Roanne

you will see a “tree” of rivers and canals that make Lyon

up the bulk of the inland waterway network. The Massif

dozens of waterways in the north, from the mouth Central
Bordeaux
of the Seine at the left to the Rhine at the right, are
the branches; the Rhône is the straight, solitary Buzet
Cahors

trunk that brings boat traffic to the Med. Avignon

Montpelier
Toulouse
 roCana EuroCanals Guide: Rhône river
u
E

ls
Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended PARIS
Navigation Difficulty: Intense traffic & current Saône

Lyon Geneva
Le Rhône comes to Lyon from the Swiss Alps, via
Givors ^
Lac Léman and Geneva. The navigable portion begins
Vienne
in an industrial area at the northeast of Lyon and flows Condrieu

^
due south to the Mediterranean Sea. It is the only Serrières
waterway connecting the canal system of northern ^
Andance
and central France to those of the southwest.
Tournon ^ Isère

Along the way it collects the flow of rivers in the long ^Valence
north-south valley between the Massif Central and the ^
Alps, beginning with the junction of the Saône at Lyon, Drôme

then the Isére at Valence, Drôme, Ardèche, Aigues and ^Montélimar

Ouvéze. South of Avignon the final tributaries, the ^ Donzère Gorge
Viviers
river Durance from the east and the Gard from the Donzère
west join the mighty flow. At Arles the alluvial Ardèche ^ Mondragon
St Étienne des Sorts
plain of the Camargue begins and Aigues
the river splits into two outlets. ^ Ouvèze
^ Avignon
Gard
Knowledge of the state of flow on the Rhône is Tarascon Durance
essential. A basic description can be found at:
Arles
www.canaux.info Le Petit Rhône
Up-to-date conditions are posted at:
http://www.inforhone.fr Port St Louis
Mediterranean
Marseille
Sea
 Rhône Locks
Lyon
All of the locks on the Rhône are massive and quite PK0
impresive in their operation. They are primarily ^PK3.9 Pierre-Bénite Head: 11.8 m
designed for large commercial barges, but floating Condrieu Vienne
bollards make it easy for smaller craft as well. PK33.9 Vaugris Head: 6.7 m

^
Some locks include a dividing gate in the middle ^PK60.5 Sablons Head: 15.3 m
so that only half of the lock need be used when
possible, speeding the process and reducing the Tournon ^ PK86.1 Gervans Head: 11.8 m
volume of water consumed. ^PK105.7 Bourg les Valence Head: 12.5 m
Valence
There are several long bypasses of the river; ^ PK123.5 Beauchastel Head: 13.65 m
Chute de Donzère-Mondragon is the longest at 28 km
including a straight section 11 km long, ending at the ^ PK142.0 Logis Neuf Head: 13.75 m
Bollène lock with a fall/rise of 23 meters. ^
Viviers PK163.5 Châteauneuf Head: 18.5 m
Donzère
Number of Locks: 12 ^ PK189.8 Bollène Head: 23 m
Lock Size: 190 X 12 meters Mondragon
Draft: 3 meters ^
PK216.0 Caderousse Head: 9.5 m
Height (clearance): 7 meters Roquemaure PK239.0 Avignon Head: 10.0 m
^ Avignon
Locks open 05:00 to 21:00 throughout
the year except 11 Nov, 25 Dec and 1 January. ^PK265.0
Tarascon
Beaucaire Head: 15.5 m l’écluse de Gervans

PK (kilometer post) locations are measured from Arles

the confluence with the Saône river at Lyon.
PK323.0 Port St Louis Entrance to the marina and access to the Med.
Lock is 135 X 19 m, Draft: 4.25 m, Head: 0 to 1 m.
^

Mediterranean X
The river mouth is non-navigable; use Port St Louis lock.
Sea
 Rhône Marinas & Moorings
Because of commercial barge traffic, strong current, occasional winds
and unwelcoming river banks, it is not possible to stop just anywhere
along the river as you might on the canals of France. It is essential Lyon
to know the location of marinas and moorings, and plan ahead for
the next stopping point (with alternates for unexpectedly faster
or slower travel.) PK 40.5
les Roches-de-Condrieu

The locations shown on this map (and listed on the next page)
are those recognized by CNR, the waterway authority for Tournon
the Rhône. There is a very useful website with details Roche de Glun les Roches-de-Condrieu
regarding locks and moorings at: PK112
http://www.inforhone.fr Port de l’Epervière
Towns with moorings
Marinas
Viviers
A great deal more information is available on the
“Marinas” are defined as year-around
personal website of Nigel Orr, an experienced canal
full-service facilities with a substantial
traveler. He offers his comments on these PK213.6 number of docks. Only the marinas have
moorings, and on 16 more locations. Port 2 / l’Ardoise
Roquemaure
been shown with their exact PK location.
Go to: http://www.canaux.info St Etienne des Sorts
Avignon “Moorings” are smaller quais or
Canal Guides/Choose a waterway/River Rhone. pontoons with fewer services; they may
Vallabrègues
Trinquetaille not be available in winter months.
Arles
See next page for detailed listing.

PK 323
Mediterranean
Port St Louis
Sea
Marinas & Moorings on the Rhône
Location Name Moorings Facilities Telephone
toilets, water and electricity on the quay, slipway, 33(0)
PK40.5 left les Roches de Condrieu 220
shops, fuel, handling equipment, careening place 4 74 56 30 53
toilets, water and electricity on the quay, 33(0)
PK91.5 right Tournon 10
slipway, shops, camping place 4 75 08 96 51
toilets, electricity on the quay, 33(0)
PK98 right Roche de Glun 10
slipway, shops 4 75 84 60 52
33(0)
PK112 left Port d’Epervière 400 toilets, water and electricity on the quay, cranage, fuel
4 75 81 18 93
33(0)
PK166 right Viviers 70 water and electricity on the quay, slipway, shops
6 73 07 55 33
water, slipway, shops, rubbish bin 33(0)
PK204 right St Étienne des Sorts 3
April through September 4 66 79 26 06
PK213.6 right toilets, water and electricity on the quay, slipway, 33(0)
Port 2, l’Ardoise 50
(old river) shops, cranage, locked wintering with caretaker 4 66 50 48 48
33(0)
PK225.2 right Roquemaure du Pape 3 slipway, shops, rubbish bin
4 66 90 54 34
toilets, water and electricity on the quay, slipway, 33(0)
PK242 left Avignon 90
shops, rubbish bins 4 90 85 65 54
33(0)
PK261 left Vallabrègues 24 toilets, water and electricity on the quay, slipway, shops
4 66 59 02 17
4-8 33(0)
PK282 right Arles/Trinquetaille water and electricity on the quay, slipway, shops
on quay 4 90 49 36 63
toilets, water and electricity on the quay, slipway, 33(0)
PK323 left Port St Louis 246
shops, fuel, handling equipment, careening place 4 42 86 39 11
 Bouches du Rhône
The delta where the river splits to flow into the Mediterranean Sea is named Bouches du Rhône,
for there is more than one mouth of the river. Over the centuries the river has changed its route
many times, now splitting into two channels, le Grand Rhône and le Petit Rhône.

Rhône River (le Grand Rhône)

Petit Rhône (le Petit Rhône)
Canal du Rhône à Sète
Canal d'Arles à Fos
Canal du Rhône à Fos (commercial traffic only)
Lyon-Arles 270 km
Canal Maritime
Canal du Midi
Avignon
le Petit Rhône Rhône
Arles to St-Gilles lock, 21 km
Draft 1.80 m, Height 5.00 m Beaucaire Tarascon
X
St-Gilles lock to sea, 38 km The lock at Beaucaire is out of service,
Canal du Rhône à Sète Draft 1 to 3 m, Height 2.50 m Bellegarde no entry from the Rhône.
Fourques
Beaucaire to Sète, 98 km
St-Gilles Arles The St-Gilles lock separates the canal
St-Gilles lock (to Petit Rhône) 195X12.0m
Draft 1.80 m, Height 3.50 m Gallician St-Gilles
from the varying levels of the Petit Rhône.
la Grande-Motte lock
Mas Thibert
Montpellier Aigues-
Lattes Mortes Camargue Étang
Carnon Grau- Regional
Palavas- de
du-Roi X
Fos-sur-mer Berre
les-Flots Natural
Frontignan Golfe Bouc
les Saintes-Maries Park
de Fos
de-la-Mer Port-St. Louis-
Étang

X
Sète Golfe du Lion du-Rhône
de
Thau
Agde Mediterranean Sea
Cities & Towns worth visiting:
Lyon is the second-largest city in France and, like Paris, is an ideal place to visit by water. Most
canal travelers will be arriving from the north, on the river Saône; mooring quais are on the left bank,
along la Presqu’Île, the city center, with Vieux Lyon (Old Quarter) just across the six bridges to the
west and the East Bank (of the Rhône), the modern commercial district, a short distance to the east.

The narrow peninsula of la Presqu’Île is a tangle of tiny old streets and even tinier squares. It is the
location of the city hall, the main post office, the main rail station and several museums, along with
chic boutiques and cafes.

An important trading center for centuries, Lyon has been famous for silk manufacturing since the
18th century; La Croix-Rousse, the neighborhood of the silk workers north of la Presqu’Île, is gritty
but it’s well worth exploring the alleys and hillsides on foot.

Vieux Lyon sits on the steep right bank of the Saône. Picturesque old streets and lanes run parallel to
the river, connected by stairways called montées. At the top of the Fourvière hill is the Basilique
Nôtre-Dame, the best spot to go for a panoramic view of the city.

During all of this sightseeing be sure to save time for the high-quality, modestly priced restaurants
which can be found in all of these districts. Lyon is rightly known as the gastronomic center of
France.

For onboard provisioning, a street market is open every morning (except Monday) on Quai St-
Antoine, adjacent to the moorings and all day daily at Halle de Lyon on Cours Lafayette (East Bank.)

http://www.en.lyon-france.com/
 LYON
Saône river

La Croix-
Rousse

Upper end of the

Vieux navigable Rhône
Lyon

la Presqu’Île
 Pont Lafayette
La Presqu’Île in the background
Vienne is a don’t-miss for history buffs. It may take a little perseverance to get past the industrial
roads lining the river, but it will be well worth a visit of several hours. The town was founded in 1 AD
as Vienna Senatoria, the capital of Roman Gaul. It was an important capital for subsequent territories
and kingdoms until its decline in the 16th and 17th centuries. Mooring quai available near the city
center. www.culture.gouv.fr/culture/arcnat/vienne/en/
Condrieu was a thriving river port before the industrial revolution. It remains an appealing hillside
port area, surrounded by its well known vineyards, famous for an unusual, fragrant white wine of the
Viognier grape. www.terroir-france.com/region/rhone_condrieu.htm
Les Roches de Condrieu marina is a short walk across the river.

Serrières is the home of the Musée des Mariniers du Rhône, a fascinating collection of the artifacts of
the river barge trade. The town is located on the old river, bypassed by a navigable channel; if
possible, tie up at the Sablons lock and bicycle or taxi into Sablons & Serrières.

Andance/Andancette: These pleasant waterside villages face each other across the Rhône, connected
by an impressive suspension bridge built in 1827 (and rebuilt in 1946, following the war), the oldest
such bridge still in use in france. See photos: www.bridgemeister.com/pic.php?pid=1276
This is a popular stop for river travelers.

Tournon offers a nice port and a footbridge over the river to Tain-l’Hermitage, nearest town to the
great vineyards of Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage. www.bridgemeister.com/pic.php?pid=1291
An interesting side trip here is the steam train to Lamastre. The train passes through the aptly-named
Doux (sweet) valley, with its pastoral countryside, chestnut forests and steep gorges.
Valence is now an important regional commercial city, however its history dates back to 123 BC.
There are reminders of the medieval and Renaissance periods on the côtes, the narrow lanes and
steps of the terraces which rise from the east bank of the Rhône. There is access directly from the
river through a passage under both the N7 (old north-south highway) and the A7 (superhighway)
which lie side-by-side with the river; the motorways make the mooring here very noisy, it may be
desirable to use Port l’Epervière just south of the city.
Montélimar is widely touted as the capital of nougat, the honey-and-nuts sweet. If that doesn’t
excite you, it’s probably just as well to pass on by this city. It is located along a 13-kilometer bypass
of the river; hard banks make this section somewhat unpleasant and the sole stopping point is a
commercial quai in the Zone Portuaire located well below the street level.
Viviers is a pleasant stop, as evidenced by the hotel barges that use the harbor. It is located on the
natural river, at the southern end of the Montélimar bypass (which includes the Châteauneuf lock)
and just north of the 28-km Chute de Donzere/Mondragon, another hard-banks section which
includes the very deep Bollène lock. There is much to see in this small town and from the viewpoint
at the north end of the ramparts. An overnight here is highly recommended. South of Viviers is the
Défilé de Donzère, a 3-km gorge where cliffs 100 meters high tower over the river.

St Étienne des Sorts is another popular stop, it is a village right on the west bank of the natural
river 3 km south of the Chute de Donzere/Mondragon. The surroundings are now truly in the south
of France; the village is in the Gard département of the Langudoc région.There is a very complete
website (in English) at www.gard-provencal.com/an/vv/stetienne.htm
Roquemaure is small but well furnished with provisioning shops. It is across the river from the
well-known wine area of Châteauneuf du Pape and the ruins of the Château de Hers, an ancient
castle set atop a rocky point overlooking the river. There is a very complete website (in English) at
www.gard-provencal.com/an/vv/roquemaure.htm
Avignon was founded on a rocky outcrop above the old river. Seven popes have resided here,
beginning with Pope Clement V in 1309. Its most prominent and most famous feature is the
remains of the Pont d’Avignon, more properly known as the Pont St Bénézet, named for a local
shepherd boy who inspired its construction in the 12th century; he felt commanded by the angels to
buid the first bridge across the Rhône (the bridge is a must-see sight on a walking tour, but don’t
attempt to pass under its stone arches.) If you are arriving from the north you must turn back up the
eastern channel after passing the city; the port is beyond the four stone arches of the bridge, a
convenient location near most of the sights and services of the city.

www.ot-avignon.fr/pages-en/home.htm
Beaucaire/Tarascon face each other across the Rhône, however there is access to neither. There
previously was a connection to the Canal du Rhône à Sète directly into the port at Beaucaire but
this has been abandoned since improvements in the Rhône channel downstream have lowered the
water level. Access to Beaucaire now is via the Petit Rhône which branches to the west at Fourques,
just above Arles, a detour of about 70 km. Tarascon is on a bypass channel along the eastern side of
the river but offers no moorings; the closest is at the Vallabrègues lock 2.4 km upstream.
Arles is on the must-see list of all who have visited this ancient city. Sights include the Roman
amphitheater, the bullring (the cities of southern France are under the Spanish influence when it
comes to bullfighting) and the Van Gogh bridge, seen in the photo. The port for Arles is across the
river at Trinquetaille, near a bridge (see the cover age of this guide, the public quai is on the right.)
www.provenceweb.fr/e/bouches/arles/arles.htm

The bridge made famous by Van Gogh

(now a reconstruction) is on the southern
fringe of Arles, on the Canal d’Arles à Fos.
This canal makes an interesting day trip into
the salt marshes on the edge of the Med,
however it is a dead-end and offers no
connection to Port St Louis or the Med.

Port St Louis is the last settlement at the

mouth of the Rhône; it is primarily a marina
used by canal travelers to access the Med.
Sailboaters often have their mast shipped
ahead to this port.
 The Mistral Wind
The Mistral is a strong wind from the NW affecting the eastern Mediterranean coast of France, from
Marseille to St. Tropez. The Mistral is one of the key weather-makers of the southern Rhône valley.
The Mistral is responsible for the exceptionally sunny conditions, the desert-like vegetation, and
perhaps even the local temper. Calm periods are punctuated by short violent bouts of Mistral, which
clear the air and prepare for the next mild spell, ensuring that this area maintains its sunny conditions.

The risk of a Mistral of force 6 or greater is about 30% in the peak period from November to April. In
the summertime that risk drops to 18%, but the warm sea temperature increases its speed significantly.
Force 7-8 is not uncommon, and at least once a year it reaches force 10 (that's 89 to 102 km/h
average.). It does occasionally reach 70 knots, it does appear suddenly, it does drive you to making
rash decisions.

The Mistral's effects develop along the Rhône valley, as a consequence of the cold front that sweeps
France once a low pressure area has formed around the English Channel. The cold front advances in a
SSE direction, passing under high altitude warm air layers, hits the Alps and spills out by funneling
down the Rhône valley at high speed, often helped by low pressure in the Tyrrhenian Sea.

You will begin to feel it around Montélimar, the city which marks the dividing line between cloudy
and clear conditions. As you continue southward, the cypresses that protect gardens and orchards from
the wind are bent over, leaning permanently towards the Mediterranean.

While it is blowing, the Mistral creates short deep waves, making navigation unpleasant and definitely
very wet.
 The Côtes du Rhône Vineyards
The vineyards of the Rhône are belived to be the oldest in France. Lyon
Some were introduced by Greek settles in the 4th century BC.
The Côtes du Rhône AOC forms a very long, naarow wine region, Vienne
Condrieu
extending from Vienne to Avignon, with a small gap below Valence.

The Côtes du Rhône Septentrionales, or Northern Côtes du Rhône,

run from Vienne to Valence. The vineyards along these steep slopes
Tournon Tain-l’Hermitage
include Condrieu, Côte Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage,
Salat-Joseph, Château-Grillet, Salat-Péray and Cornas. Valence

Clairette de Die lies in its own area well to the east of the river.
Montélimar
The Côtes du Rhône Méridionales are in the Provençal climate, Viviers
from Montélimar to the southeast and southwest of Avignon. Donzère
Some are quite a distance from the river. The local appelations Mondragon
include Beaumes de Venise, Châteauneuf du pape, Côtes de Ventoux,
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Côtes de Lubéron, Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Côtes du Vivarais,
Gigondas, Lirac, Tavel, Vacqueyras and Vinsobres. Avignon
Tarascon
Arles

Port St Louis
Mediterranean
Marseille
Sea
Cruising Comments from Bob Williamson, aboard Aquanaut Drifter 1250 Legrace, 2005:
“The cruising on the Saone is much faster than the canals further north and the Rhone is faster still -
now we are able to do much longer distances each day. The locks were larger on the Saone and huge on
the Rhone but I find them easier, especially the Rhone locks with floating bollards. The Rhone has
fewer stopping places and it is not practical or possible to tie up to the banks. The commercial barges
and hotel cruise ships are much larger but generally not a problem. Also I was expecting a lot of
commercial traffic but it is not that heavy - only one lock did we share with a hotel cruise ship and the
rest we were by ourselves. Above and below the Rhone locks are pilings for barges to tie-up. They now
have installed floating pontoons between the one pair of the pilings for small pleasure craft. We talked
to several other boaters who have spent the night moored to these pontoons - they just asked the lock
keepers. But they only were allowed to moor overnight on the down stream pontoons. Commercial
traffic runs all night but pleasure craft only operate during the day. Do call or radio the Rhone locks 15
to 20 minutes before arriving.
In Lyon proper there are very few places for pleasure boats. The primary one is on the Saone about 3 km
north of the junction with the Rhone River. This is a long public quay on the east bank just above the
Kitchener-Marchand & Autoroute A-6 bridges. A VNF office located at the south end of quay and
another VNF office is on the opposite bank. Look for the willow trees on the east bank as you come
downstream from the north. The mooring is not the best but it is free in the heart of the city. There is
wash from passing barges and lot of pedestrian traffic along the quay. Friends of ours had a bicycle
stolen at night from their barge (it was unlocked) and we had been warned about securing everything on
the boat, especially at night. But we stayed there four days and did not encounter any problems. The
quay is within walking distance of the train station, a major pedestrian shopping district, subway stations
and the old town section on the west bank. We (Lynn & I and our guests) all enjoyed Lyon - lots to see
and do - and we want to spend more time there next year on our way north. continued next page
Les Roches de Condrieu; Port de plaisance, € 17.50 per night with water & electricity
A 4.2 hr run with 2 locks (about 43 km for the day). The port de plaisance was ok at les Roches de
Condrieu and a few shops and grocery were a short walk away but I didn't find anything special in the
village.

Valence; Port de l'Eperviere, full services € 18.10 per night

A 6.4 hr run with 3 locks (a 30 minute delay at the last lock waiting for commercial traffic) and
covered 60+ km. Between les Roches de Condrieu and Valence we did not see any mooring that
were usable for us. Our one chart noted a quay and services at Laveyron (pk 73) but that is no
longer there. The port de plaisance at Tournon was too small and shallow.

We had American friends who wintered on their boat in Valence last year so we were very
interested in “checking it out”. We love it so we are spending the winter here. The Valence
chamber of commerce spent nearly € 1,000,000 this past year lengthening the breakwater,
enlarging the harbor, adding new pontoons, etc. - a very nice marina and lovely city. We are
paying € 874 for a six month mooring, water included but electricity is extra. Electricity is
charged based on usage with 16 amp or 32 amp service available - this is first time we have seen
16 amp service since leaving Sneek! (Netherlands)”

Comments courtesy of Bob & Lynn Williamson. They purchased a newly-built Aquanaut Drifter 1250
in Sneek, NL amd cruised south on the river Meuse, Canal de l’Est, Saône river and Rhône river to
Valence, later shipping their boat to the USA where they are now cruising the east coast.
 Canal du Rhône
au Rhin

Doubs river
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Canal du Rhône au Rhin

The official name for the Canal du Rhône au Rhin is descriptive, it is a vital link in the European waterway
network that connects the Rhône valley, and thus the Mediterranean, with the Rhine valley, leading north to
Germany, Holland and the North Sea. But for more than half of its 238 kilometer length it follows the course of
the river Doubs past wooded slopes and outcroppings of rocks. Therefore this prime cruising area is commonly
called "Doubs".

The Doubs valley winds beneath the impressive cliffs of the Jura mountains in the Franche-Comté region,
twisting with the meanders of the river. Sometimes, as at Thoraise and again at Besançon, a boucle (buckle, or
loop) in the river is bypassed by tunnels. Along the way, the canal passes directly through the historical and
architecturally-rich cities of Dole and Besançon, each locating in a dramatic setting and deserving an extended
visit. The Doubs is little-used by commercial barges; about twenty-five years ago plans were begun to straighten
and enlarge the canal to suit the large international barges, however the high cost and detrimental environmental
effects have caused the project to be dropped. Self-skippered rental boats are available only from bases at
t-Jean-de-Losne and Dole; the Doubs is not as popular with holiday cruisers as canals like the Nivernais,
Bourgogne or Midi. For those who prefer a less crowded waterway or are cruising on their own vessel and at
their own schedule, this is a highly-recommended area to spend a few weeks or even a season.

Historical Background:
Freight was transported along this route in Roman times, traveling from the Mediterranean Sea up the Rhône
and Saône rivers to the Doubs, finally being portaged over the summit to the Rhine valley. In 1774 an engineer
of the French army, Le Chiche, proposed a plan for a waterway, but it did not materialize until the first section
at the western end opened in 1802. Various delays resulted from the political upheaval of the times, with the full
length of the canal opening for traffic in 1831. Upgrading to the Freycinet standard for commercial peniches
38.5 meter locks) was completed in 1921, following the return of Alsace to France after World War I.

A Cruise East from the Saône:

St-Symphorien-sur-Saône, just four kilometers from "the center of the French waterways" at St-Jean-de-Losne
(near Dijon), is the beginning point at the western end of the canal. The entrance itself from the river Saône is
unremarkable and could easily be missed; look for an isolated three-story house just downstream of the entrance
lock (#75). In the pound between the first two locks and at the basin just east of Lock #74 there are usually quite
a few large private barges moored at the facilities of Bourgogne Marine. Roger Walster, a British ex-pat, offers
year-around moorings, services and repairs, along with brokerage of barges (www.bourgogne-marine.com).

Until the junction with the Doubs at Dole the canal is an artificial waterway of straight stretches through mostly
pleasant but not very scenic woodlands and flat fields, although wildflowers in the spring carpet the canal banks.
The route quickly leaves behind the Cote d'Or and enters the département of Jura. Industry intrudes from PK 8
(Kilometer Post 8) to PK 11, in the form of pipelines over the canal and large embankments for settling ponds
of the Solvay chemical works at Tavaux-Cité. It's best to plan to complete this section (17 km, 9 locks) in a day
and moor at the city of Dole.
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Dole is notable as the birthplace of Louis Pasteur (his home is now a museum, just follow the signs from the
harbor) and as the former capital of the Franche-Comté region. This interesting and enjoyable town spreads
across the hill on the north side of the Doubs valley, above the well-equipped and very attractive port; the brown
roofs of the old houses are dominated by the spire of the church tower, Basilique Notre-Dame. The narrow, steep
streets are not one of the usual tourist destinations of France; this is a bustling regional center, offering a special
atmosphere with excellent shopping and restaurants. Nicols operates a rental-boat base at this port; they
recommend a one-week roundtrip cruise to Montbeliard. (Crown Blue Line operates a base at St-Jean-de-Losne,
suggesting a roundtrip to Besançon.)

From Dole to Montbeliard navigation alternates between the

active waters of the Doubs and the tranquil waters of the
canalized sections, all the while passing through beautiful
landscape and charming small villages. Immediately upon
leaving Dole, the canal is enclosed by the foliage of very old
plane trees. The Doubs meanders away to the south but rejoins
the waterway at Rochefort-sur-Nenon, where eastbound
vessels follow a narrow passage (shown at right) between
stone walls leading to an écluse de garde (a guard lock that
controls the flow of water from the river into the canal, but
is not intended to change the elevation.)

Past this lock are the first of the many stone-faced cliffs of the
Jura, and one of the few mooring places in the river itself.
Food, water and a restaurant are available here, a good spot to
study the charts for the rather challenging navigation just ahead.
There is an excellent view over the valley from the top of the
cliff, a short walk up from the lock. The fortified mill and
several picturesque houses make Rochefort an interesting stop.

The Doubs flows over a weir at the right side

of the lock exit; the skipper must pay attention
to potential strong currents at locations such as
this.
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The sinuous river valley and long lines of hills lie ahead; the next 120 kilometers are the most beautiful part of
the waterway, indeed some of the most beautiful in Europe. The alternating passages of canal and river are in
turn restful and demanding, making the cruise interesting and satisfying. When entering or leaving a canalized
section, check the chart and pay careful attention to locating the channel and to plan ahead for the cross-current
as the river enters or leaves from the side. Also follow the suggestions in the chartbooks regarding mooring
places, for many stopping points near the villages are narrow and should not be used.

But don't let these cautions deter you from visiting the villages. The shopping at Orchamps, for instance,
includes very tempting choices from the boulangerie (bakery) and boucherie (butcher), as well as a mini-market
for more mundane supplies (tie up opposite the campground.) Approaching Ranchot the canal is at the highest
level of a triple tier of waters; the river flows alongside, separated from the canal by a narrow stone wall, and
also goes over a weir into a third stream. The unusual perspective adds to the interest of cruising the Doubs.

From the village of Osselle it is 4 km by road to the Grottes d'Osselle, a system of caves discovered in the 13th
century and visited by scientists and tourists for nearly five hundred years. Great names such as Voltaire, Cuvier,
the inventor of paleontology and Martel, the father of speleology, have investigated the eight kilometers of
limestone passages. A level path leads visitors through fifteen rooms of astonishing colors and formations (a fee
is charged; check open hours tel: 03 81 63 62 09.)

The village and chateau of Thoraise sit atop a

rocky outcrop ahead, surrounded by a long loop
of the river. The difficulties of navigation on this
loop convinced the canal builders to cut a tunnel
(185 meters long) through the narrow isthmus.
The canal approaches easily from the west, but
the eastern exit is a blind 90-degree right turn
(sound your horn) into a pleasant stone-lined
basin shaded by large trees.

Steps lead above the mouth of the tunnel to a statue

of the Virgin Mary and a grotto of candles. This can be
an enjoyable stop for a walk, or for a longer hike up the
ridge to Chapelle Notre Dame du Mont.
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Steep rocky cliffs continue along the north side, topped by the ruins of the tower of Montferrand-le-Château.
Enjoy the view, then pay careful attention while diverting from the river into the double lock at Rancenay, then
through a narrow one-way section of canal. Full shopping services can be found just ahead at the twin towns of
Avanne on the north and Aveney on the south, or if chandlery or mechanical service is needed, stop at the
pontoon of Besançon Nautic at PK 71, east of Beure.

Besançon (the ancient Roman town of Vesontio)

is marked by the citadelle and fortifications
rising above La Boucle du Doubs, the 3 km loop
of the Doubs that encircles the old city.

To visit the city in the summer months, vessels

with draft of 1.4 meters or less can navigate the
river loop and moor along the quays of Port
Battant and Port République or in Port St. Paul,
adjacent to the VNF waterway authority office.
Stops can also be made at Port Tarragnoz,
located at the downstream end of the tunnel,
above Lock 51.

The citadelle, built by the ubiquitous French military architect Vauban in the 17th century, dominates the ridge
above the isthmus of the loop. As at Thoraise, a tunnel (400 meters long) was dug through the rock of the
isthmus right under the citadelle to provide a direct route for the canal.

The citadelle is reached on foot up many steps, or by taxi. The site includes a zoo and several museums,
including one devoted to the WWII Resistance and Nazi atrocities. The view up and down the valley of the
Doubs is spectacular. In the lower city, look for the museum of horology and clock shops; Besançon is the center
of French clock-making. Near St. Jean's Cathedral is a remarkable astronomical clock, made in the 19th century
with over 30,000 parts. Victor Hugo, France's most-loved author, was born here, as were the Lumière brothers,
pioneers of cinematography. For those who just like to walk around an old city, the rows of stone townhouses
along the river are magnificent.

From Besançon to Baume-les-Dames the steep wooded ridges above the twisting course of the river make this
35 km section the most beautiful of the entire length of the canal. A veteran traveler of the European canals
described a day's run downstream here as "one of those really magical trips", listing it above such renowned
cruises as the Midi, the valley of the Ouche (Canal de Bourgogne) and the valley of the Zorn from Saverne to
Lutzelbourg.

Travel is mostly in the river itself and alert navigation is required. Suitable moorings may be difficult to find,
but plan a halt at the charming little town of Deluz, typical of the Franche-Comté region. Call ahead and book a
meal at Chez Soi, a delightful small auberge tucked behind an island at Ougney-la-Roche (tel 03 81 55 57 05).
The candlelit gardens on the riverbank and the delicious food will make an evening here most memorable.
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Baume-les-Dames is situated amidst the beautiful scenery of the steep wooded hills and is proud of its most
famous resident, Marquis Claude-Francois-Dorothée de Jouffroy d'Abbans, who is famous not just for his most
impressive name but for the fact that he constructed and tested here the world's first steamboat in 1776, making
numerous trips between Besançon and Montbeliard. A monument containing parts of the original engine stands
near the Doubs, in his memory. The moorings here are not as pleasant as the rest of the surroundings, but are
adequate and a stop is recommended.

This narrative is proceeding upstream on the Doubs (northeast), however the most scenic approach to Baume-
les-Dames is downstream; the Vagnon guide notes here Très joli bief and Section très pittoresque (and offers the
same translation with each note "Very picturesque section".) It's a great section for sightseeing, but the skipper
will be busy navigating the narrow channel and moorings are not available until Clerval, seven locks and 16 km
further northeast. The pleasing little towns of Clerval and La Vesselotte across the river offer full shopping and
restaurant services.

This is the heart of the Franche-Comté region, a good place to stock the boat with regional specialties such as
sausages, Comté and Morbier cheeses and the white wines of the Jura, especially Arbois. The restaurants will
serve fish dishes fresh from the upper Doubs and its tributary the Loue.

L'Isle-sur-le-Doubs is obviously right on the Doubs; a canal cut and two channels of the river pass through the
middle of the town, separating the various quarters. The mill stream, le canal du Moulin, is preserved as a
heritage site; brown-roofed stone houses back up to the stream. The canal is near the shops, the least attractive
quarter but convenient for replenishing supplies; visit the other areas on foot. This is the turnaround point for a
two-week cruise from St-Jean-de-Losne or Dole; on the return trip you can enjoy the scenery from another point
of view, and make the stops that you missed on the way up.

Montbeliard is located at the point where the river Doubs comes down from the mountains and makes its turn
southwest toward the Saône. The waterway now is entirely in a canal cut, with more frequent locks and
relatively less beautiful but still attractive scenery. The surroundings become more built-up and industrial but the
welcoming Port de Plaisance at Montbeliard is expansive and well-equipped and is located near the center of the
city, built around a hill that was originally the site of a Roman fort and is now the Château de Montbeliard. The
market section is nearby, with a range of tempting restaurants.

The canal route leaves the Doubs valley at Montbeliard and continues northeast over the summit and into Alsace
along the valley of the river Ill, with the high ballons of the Vosges mountains visible on the north. The
Embranchement de Belfort (also named the Canal de la Haute Saône, a planned alternative connection to the
river Saône that was never completed) can provide an interesting side trip of less than 10 km, to the head of
navigation at Belfort..

Belfort sits at the gap in the divide between the watersheds of the North Sea and the Med, with the Alps on the
south and the Vosges on the North. Fans of modern architecture can make an excursion to Ronchamps (20 km by
road northwest of Belfort) to visit the remarkable chapel designed by Le Courboisier atop a commanding hilltop
site.
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Canal du Rhône au Rhin

Bief de partage, the summit pound at an altitude of 341.5 meters above sea level, begins five locks east of the
Belfort embranchement. Not only the watersheds change at the summit, it's also marked by changes in
architecture, place names and language as the German influence shows up in Alsace. Town names and
navigational instructions are often shown in both French and German. Sometimes the two languages are used
together, as in the town name of Spechbach-le-Bas.

The canal descends past these towns through numerous and frequent locks; the Valdieu staircase above
Dannemarie drops more than 32 meters through twelve locks in 2.7 km, a spectacular sight that is rapid and
efficient. There are another twenty-five locks in 25 km on the way into the city of Mulhouse.

Mulhouse is effectively the end of the canal. east of here is a 13 km junction canal to the Grand Canal d'Alsace,
which parallels the river Rhine. And the disused northern branch of the Canal du Rhône au Rhin leads northward
from the eastern edge of the city (this route may one day be reopened, a boon for the pleasure cruiser.) The city
is generally unattractive, however there are excellent moorings in the center of the city at the Old Basin,
convenient to full services and the amenities of a large university and industrial city. There are several
technological museums and the world-famous collection of automobiles of the Schlumpf brothers, which was
taken over by the government after the family textile mills were bankrupted due to the excesses of the collection.

Here on the eastern side of the summit, those who have made the trip can feel the satisfaction of completing the
crossing of a major continental divide and can relate to the historical importance of the gap since Roman times
and through the wars fought here in the past few centuries.

Navigating the Doubs:

This wild and picturesque route requires attentive navigation and is best for experienced boaters, although the
major rental-boat companies offer self-skippered trips. The navigation guides should be used with care, as the
fast-flowing river Doubs causes the channel to change somewhat each year. Also, the facilities may not be
accurately listed; all three guides have not been updated for several years. In fact, the EDB Guide #9 is the last
of the CBL (Crown Blue Line) Guides, a series that has now been taken over and improved by Éditions du Breil;
this 1995 edition has not yet been updated by EDB. Navicarte does not produce a detailed guide for this canal,
instead its guide (#32) is an overall map of the entire route on one page (39" X 23"), useful for planning but not
showing adequate detail for navigation. The most detailed guide available is published by Vagnon, Guide #2,
with notes referring to the status in 1992 and 1996.

The charts show the distance from either the right or left bank (in meters) of the center of the channel. Follow
these marks and any canalside signs that may be present to locate the deep water. In general, it will be closest to
the towpath side of the canal. The hazards include shallows, rocks and weirs. Also, follow the chart carefully to
anticipate the entrances to lock cuts, which sometimes can pass by unnoticed, resulting in unexpected arrival at
unmarked weirs.

If you plan to enter the Embranchement de Belfort, check first with the Navigation Service at Montbeliard
(tel 03 81 91 17 32) for information and assistance.
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, scenic,
recommended for experienced boaters
Navigation Difficulty: Some sections have
intense current and rocky or shallow places PARIS

As its name describes, this route connects the Rhone river with the Rhine river.
The western end is near the "center of the French waterways" at St Jean-de-Losne
and the eastern end connects with the Grand Canal d'Alsace.
But the route is also known as the Doubs; it follows the scenic valley of the
fast-flowing river Doubs from its junction with the Saone to Montbeliard.

Mulhouse
tunnel 140 m
Canal du Rhone au Rhin Niffer
Length: 238 km
Number of Locks: 111 Montreux Chateau
Belfort Dannemarie Basel
Minimum Depth: 1.80 m
Minimum Height: 3.40 m Grand Canal d'Alsace
Montbeliard Rhine River
Lock Size: 38.7 X 5.1 m Embranchement
l'Isle-s-le-Doubs
de Belfort
Clerval
Baume-les-Dames
Deluz
Canal de Bourgogne
prime scenic section
Besancon
R. Saone tunnel 400 m
Thoraise
Dijon Orchamps
tunnel 185 m
Dole Osselle Season: Open all year
Charts: Locks operate:
St Symphorien
St Jean-de-Losne Navicarte #32 Dec 1 to Jan 31: 0730 to 1730 hours
Guide Vagnon #2 Feb 1 to Feb 28: 0700 to 1800
Guide Fluviaux EDB #9 Mar 1 to Mar 31: 0700 to 1900
Elevation,
Map: April 1 to Sept 30: 0630 to 1930
meters Michelin #243 Oct 1 to Nov 30: 0700 to 1800
200

Montreux Chateau
150 Montbeliard

l'Isle-s-le-Doubs Dannemarie
100 Baume-les-Dames

Besancon Mulhouse
Thoraise Niffer
50
Orchamps
Dole

0
0 19 34 60 74 110 141 165 186 196 221 238 Kilometers
75 66 63 56 50 39 26 14 3 / 2 17 41 Lock Number
(Lock numbers on Saone side end at #3, with #13 omitted) (Lock numbers on Rhine side start at #2, with #40 omitted)
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Useful Addresses Self-Skippered Boat Rentals Sites
Direction Régionale de VNF These companies (telephone) operate Royal Saltworks, Arc-et-Senans, 15 km
Service Navigation rental bases at these towns: south of Ranchot on hwy D31.
25, rue de la Nuée Bleue, BP367 R/10 St-Jean-de-Losne Grottes d’Osselle, follow signs from
67010 CEDEX Strasbourg Crown Blue Line 03 80 27 03 50 hwy D13 at Osselle, open every day April-
Tel 03 88 21 74 74 H2O 03 80 39 23 00 Nov, tel 03 81 63 62 09.
Fax 03 88 32 33 09 Dole Notre-Dame de Ronchamps, chapel
Nicols 03 84 82 65 57 designed by Le Courboisier, Ronchamps,
VNF – Service Navigation, 20 km from Belfort on hwy N19.
Mulhouse, Tel 03 89 45 29 14
Ports (paying ports with services)
Direction Régionale de VNF St Symphorien Shopping, Markets
Service Navigation Bourgogne Marine 03 80 39 25 63 Shops are generally closed Mondays and
2, rue de la Quarantaine Dole every day from noon till mid-afternoon
69321 CEDEX 05 Lyon Capitainerie 03 84 82 65 57 (shop early).
Tel 04 72 56 59 00 Besançon Street Market Days:
Fax 04 72 56 59 01 Capitainerie 03 81 82 60 89 TOWN MARKET DAY
Montbeliard Dole Tuesday, Thursday,
VNF – Service Navigation, Capitainerie 03 81 94 92 69 & Saturday morning
Besançon, Tel 03 81 25 00 30 Dannemarie Baume-les-Dames 1st Thursday
Capitainerie 06 80 73 67 10 Clerval 2nd Tuesday
Guide Tourisme Fluvial en Mulhouse l’Isle-s-le-Doubs Friday morning
Franche-Comté, Besançon Capitainerie 06 17 03 31 50
Tel 03 81 88 71 38 Kembs (Niffer)
Capitainerie 03 89 74 50 74 Navigation Guides
Navicarte #32 is a poster-sized (39" X 23")
Rail Stations overall map of the entire waterway, useful
Dole Maps for planning purposes.
Besançon Take along a highway map such as the Navigation guides are available from
Baume-les-Dames Michelin #243 to check towns and sites Vagnon (#2) and EDB (#9), although both
Clerval further off the canal than are shown on are due for updating. These guides show
l’Isle-sur-le-Doubs the strip chartbooks of the canal, neces- the details of the waterway, with particu-
Montbeliard sarily limited to just a few kilometers off lar attention to the location of the chan-
Belfort the canal. nel between the banks, of more impor-
Montreux-Vieux tance here than in most canals or rivers.
Mulhouse The location of buoys are marked, along
Telephones with boxes showing the distance (in
Public telephones are readily available in meters) of the navigable channel from
Hotels towns and at many locks, but they will one bank or the other; pay careful atten-
Besançon, Hôtel des 3 Iles, not accept coins, and only rarely accept tion to these indications, and also watch
1 rue de Vergers, 25220 Chalezeule credit cards. for signs on the bank with similar infor-
Tel 03 81 61 00 66 Purchase a prepaid telephone card at mation.
Fax 03 81 61 73 09 La Poste (post office) or at some tabacs
Belfort, Château Servin, (bar/tobacco shop.) International calls
9, rue Général-Négrier, 90000 Belfort are surprisingly inexpensive.
Tel 03 84 21 41 85 Mobile phones are widely used, but
Fax 03 84 57 05 57 make sure yours is compatible (most US
phones are not) and purchase a prepaid
SIM card at a cell-phone shop in France.
Hotel Barges This card will come with its own tele-
Alouette, Caprice & Hirondelle offer phone number.
cruises on the western end of the canal,
from/to Besançon.
 Seine river

Seine river at La Frette

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CONTENTS:

Page 3. The River Seine: Introduction

4. The River Seine: Map & Elevation Graph

5. Waterway Details

6. Seine Maritime: Le Havre to Rouen (Amfreville-Poses lock)

9. Map: Seine downstream from Paris

Seine Aval (Basse Seine): Amfreville-Poses lock to Paris (Suresnes lock)

16. Map: Seine through Paris

17. Seine through Paris

21. Map: Seine upstream from Paris

22. Seine Amont (Haute Seine): Paris (Marne River Junction) to Montereau

24. Petite Seine: Montereau to Marcilly

25. To the Source: the Non-navigable Seine

26. Personal Memoir: Six Months at Val d’Herblay

28. River Ships

29. Paris Ports

30. Useful Addresses

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Seine: The River Seine, From Sea To Source By Tom Sommers July 2003
The river Seine is apropriately named; the name is derived from the Latin sequana, for “snake”. It is
unusual among the major rivers of Europe in its many boucles, smooth curving loops that cut across the
straight-line path to the sea. Each loop is framed by sweeping curves of ridges, first on the north side of
the river’s path, then on the south. The ridges are wooded, even near Paris where suburbs line the banks.
Further downstream, white chalk cliffs emerge from the greenery. The land inside each of these loops is
generally flat and low, thus the valley of the Seine is broad and open, rather than enclosed on both sides.

The several sections of the river each have their own name. The primary divisions are Seine Aval
downstream of Paris and Seine Amont upstream of Paris. Alternate terms are sometimes used: Basse
(lower) Seine and Haute (upper) Seine. The center point is at Ile St Louis, where the pont Marie and the
pont de la Tournelle connect the island to the right and left banks of the river, respectively.*

Seine Aval has Paris as its upstream point and ends at the sea, emptying into the English Channel near the
port of Le Havre. In the middle is the city of Rouen, a major seaport itself near the limit of tidal waters on
the Seine Maritime, a section with no locks and very high clearance under bridges to allow the passage of
seagoing ships. Between Rouen and Paris the river is an inland waterway of great beauty and interesting
towns, a somewhat neglected area for pleasure cruising.

Upstream from Paris, the Seine Amont is more commonly used by boaters, largely for access to very
popular waterways in Champagne and Burgundy. The final section, called the Petite Seine, is an
unspectacular but very pleasant round-trip cruise to the limit of navigation. Beyond that point, curious
travelers can continue along the highways to find more beautiful scenery and interesting towns, following
the river back to its source in the Côte d’Or near Dijon.

All but the Petite Seine is served by large European-gauge locks (180.0 meters X 11.40 meters) and the
river is busy with commercial traffic. Small boats are common, however, and have little problem fitting in
with the large barges. The main rules are to give priority to commercial barges by moving closer to the
banks when necessary and by entering the locks last.

The river is subject to substantial changes in water level due to seasonal flooding. This may mean reduced
clearance under bridges and difficulty in mooring at flooded quais. High-water points of past years are
marked on walls and buildings in many places along the river (look for these marks at the upstream end of
Port Grenelle.) The flood of 1910 was the highest in modern times and caused a great deal of devastation
in Paris and nearby suburbs. If you should visit the Musée d’Orsay , turn away from the river at the main
entrance of the museum and walk two blocks inland; on the right-hand side of rue de Bellechasse, at the
door of a small hotel, there is a plaque at eye level marking the flood level in January 1910. Most of the
Left Bank was underwater.

Although a single cruise from the sea to the upper limit of navigation is certainly possible and would be
very rewarding, most cruisers will use just a part of the river, therefore this report is organized into the
various sections. Interesting sites are described for most of the possible stops along the way. However,
especially in Paris these sightseeing suggestions are limited to those directly accessible from the river, and
should be expanded by reference to the many tourist guidebooks and websites with more information.

* Throughout this guide the banks of the river will be referred to as "left bank" and "right bank" according to the common convention
of a boat traveling downstream toward the sea, even though the narration is based on the opposite, upstream route.
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The Seine river flows 782 kilometers from its source in the Cote-d'Or
(at St-Germain-Source-Seine, northeast of Dijon) to the sea at Le Havre.
PARIS
It is navigable from the confluence with the Aube at Marcilly for 524 km,
making it the longest navigable waterway in France. From Paris to Le Havre
it is also France's busiest waterway. Four other navigable rivers flow into
the Seine: Yonne, Loing, Marne and Oise; these rivers connect into all of the
inland waterway network of France (except the isolated waterways of Brittany
and the Atlantic coast.)
l
Channe

Seine Maritime
Rouen
English

Le Havre Seine Aval (Basse)

Paris
Seine Amont (Haute)
Elbeuf Les Andelys
Petite Seine
Seine (non-navigable)
OiseConflans- Tancarville Canal
St Honorine
Mantes- PARIS
la-Jolie
ne
M ar
Aube
Marcilly

Melun Se
ine
Nogent
Fontainebleau
Bray
St Mammes Montereau
Loin Yon
g ne
Elevation, meters
70 Marcilly
60
Montereau
50 St Mammes
40
Conflans Paris
30 St Honorine
20
Rouen
10
0
Km 0 105 145 275 347 431 456 524
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Seine, overall navigable: 524 km, 27 locks

Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, recommended.

Seine Maritime: Honfleur to Amfreville-Poses lock, 153 km, tidal, no locks

Navigation Difficulty: Heavy commercial traffic, strong currents; experience required.
Draft: maximum permitted 3.50 m, 2.0 m or less avoids traffic
Height: at highest navigable water level 5.69 m
Contact: Port Autonome du Havre, BP 1413, 76067 Le Havre Cedex Tel: +33(0)2 32 74 74 00
Port Autonome de Rouen, 34 bd de Boiguilbert BP 4075, 76022 Rouen Cedex Tel: +33(0)2 35 52 54 56
Service Navigation de la Seine 4e, 34 bd de Boiguilbert, 76022 Rouen Cedex Tel: +33(0)2 35 52 54 00

Seine Aval: Amfreville-Poses lock to Paris-Suresnes lock, 185 km, 7 locks 180.0 m X 11.4 m
Navigation Difficulty: Heavy commercial traffic, strong currents; experience required.
Draft: 3.50 m
Height: 6.90 m
Contact: Service Navigation de la Seine, 2 quai de Grenelle, 75732 Paris Cedex Tel: +33(0)1 40 58 29 99

Paris: Suresnes lock to Marne confluence, 23 km, no locks.

Navigation Difficulty: Heavy commercial traffic, strong currents; experience required. VHF required.
Draft: 3.00 m
Height: 6.00 m
Contact: Service Navigation de la Seine, 2 quai de Grenelle, 75732 Paris Cedex Tel: +33(0)1 40 58 29 99

Seine Amont: Marne confluence to Yonne confluence, 95 km, 8 locks 180.0 m X 11.4 m
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, little commercial traffic, slow currents.
Draft: 3.00 m
Height: 6.00 m
Contact: Service Navigation de la Seine, 22bis quai d’Austerlitz, 75013 Paris Tel: +33(0)1 44 06 19 00

Petite Seine: Yonne confluence to Marcilly, 68 km, 12 locks 38.5 m X 5.05 m

Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, no commercial traffic, slow currents.
Draft: 1.80 m to Nogent, 1.20 m to Marcilly
Height: 4.25 m to Nogent, 3.15 m to Marcilly
Contact: Service Navigation de la Seine, Ecluse du Pont Vert, 10400 Nogent Tel: +33(0)3 25 39 86 48

Tancarville Canal: Le Havre to Seine junction, 25 km, 3 locks.

Navigation Difficulty: Easiest, except heavy commercial traffic, slow currents. Open to pleasure boats but
recommended for non-seagoing vessels only; the latter can travel easily from Le Havre directly to the Seine.
Draft: 7.15 m
Height: Unlimited
Contact: Port Autonome du Havre, BP 1413, 76067 Le Havre Cedex Tel: +33(0)2 32 74 74 00
Charts: Maps:
Navicarte #1 & #2 Michelin # 237
Guide Vagnon (none) Season:
Guide Fluviaux EDB (none) Open all year. Lock schedules vary, use Contact information.
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Seine Maritime (Le Havre/Honfleur to Rouen)

The Seine is tidal for 153 kilometers, from the sea to the first lock at Amfreville-Poses, as it traverses the
region of Haute-Normandie. The distance traveled on the river is almost double the straight-line path as
the Seine curves through eight loops. The section between Honfleur and Rouen, 113 km, should be
completed in one day, scheduled to suit the tide, which can be as much as 9 km/hr. Ocean-going ships are
guided to the port at Rouen by pilots around the clock, however pleasure boats are prohibited from
traveling at night. Private boats must give way to the commercial vessels at all times; there is adequate
room on the river to allow this, as the river is wide and a minimum draft of 2.0 meters extends almost to
the banks along most of the route. There are interesting sights in some of the towns, mentioned below,
however it is difficult or impossible to moor; a day-trip by car from Honfleur or Rouen is recommended.
While this section is not difficult for experienced boaters, it does require careful planning. Consult
the detailed information available in Navicarte Guide #1, La Seine Aval, and check with port authorities at
either end of the route regarding the tides and conditions to be expected on the proposed day of travel.

Caudebec-en-Caux
Pont de
l

Villequier
nch nne

Tancarville Brotonne
Ma Cha

Pont de
e)

Canal
Tancarville
(La glish

Le Havre Quillebeuf Abbaye de Rouen

En

Honfleur Pont de Jumieges

Normandie

Amfreville-
Elbeuf Poses lock
Eur
e

Le Havre Although the days of tourists arriving in France by ocean liner on the New York – Le Havre
route are long past, this is still one of the major ports in Europe, and a point of entry for foreign cruisers
headed into the Seine. The city was almost totally destroyed in World War II but has been rebuilt as a
modern city in close relationship with the sea. The pleasure-boat harbor is directly on the English Channel
(La Manche to the French); large commercial harbors stretch inland on the south side of the city and along
the Tancarville Canal.
Honfleur An attractive town, with more of the charm that visitors to France want to visit and enjoy, surrounds
the old harbor. It is a quick sail across the mouth of the Seine from Le Havre and a good base to begin the inland
cruise. The Vieux Bassin is filled with brightly painted fishing boats, seagoing yachts and the plastic motorboats
of sportfishermen. Steep curving streets and alleys
with period houses have been favored by artists and
tourists since the 19th century; now it is a destination
for buses,cruise ships and pleasure boaters, featuring
many seafood restaurants and boutiques.
The channel into Honfleur dries out at low tide, so
access to and from the harbors there must be
coordinated with the tides.
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The first sight when leaving Honfleur to cruise inland is a very

impressive one, the ultra-modern pont de Normandie which
connects Honfleur to Le Havre. It is a graceful design of two
slim A-shaped towers supporting an arched roadway by means
of a single row of shiny cables.

Fourteen kilometers further on is the Tancarville bridge, also

impressive but built in the sturdy and massive design style of
the mid-20th century. These bridges stand high above and across
the marshlands of the Seine estuary.

Quillebeuf is an ancient Viking stronghold, no doubt because it is the first high ground on the south side
of the river, with a view over the estuary and the marshes as far as the sea. Nowadays that view includes
the Tancarville bridge stretching across the scene and petrochemical plants on the other shore of the river.
But the village itself retains the charm of a small maritime town and has many interesting houses,
including that of Henry the 4th. Many of the houses in the surrounding countryside are chaumières,
thatched roofs on half-timbered cottages.

Villequier, a tiny village on the north side of the river, is located at the base of the first of the beautiful
wooded ridges which form the valley of the Seine all the way into Paris. It is famous in France because
the daughter and son-in-law of Victor Hugo were both drowned here in 1843 when their sailboat was
overturned by the tidal bore of the Seine, known as Le Mascaret. A museum in the village is dedicated to
the life of Victor Hugo. (The tidal bore still occurs at times, but its effects have now been managed by
modern works in the channel.)

Caudebec-en-Caux is the only suitable stopping point for restaurants and shops between Honfleur and
Rouen, at a pontoon used by tourist boats. The town is located beneath the third high bridge over the
Seine, the pont de Brotonne, which seems to burst from the ridge on the north and extends far onto the
lowlands of the southern bank. (Each of the three bridges mentioned have a clearance of at least 50
meters/165 feet above the surface of the river.) A museum of the maritime history of the Seine is located
here.
Abbaye de Jumièges is one of the most beautiful abbeys in France even
though (or perhaps because) it is now a roofless ruin. It was founded in the
7th century, destroyed and rebuilt in the 10th century, and consecrated in 1067
in the presence of William the Conqueror. The porch is flanked by two towers
45 meters (150') tall, and the nave behind them (30 meters, 100') is complete.
It is a short walk from the ferry crossing (PK 295), where it may be possible
to tie up while visiting the abbey.
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Rouen A major university and commercial city with a busy port, Rouen is worth a visit of several days.
Seagoing ships stop at Rouen, where the waterway changes from maritime to inland; bridges are now
eight meters or lower, rather than the previous 50-meter bridge clearance. Sailboats needing to be
demasted are serviced at Chantier Lozai in the Docks harbor located in the commercial port, then they can
proceed to the pleasure boat port on the Ile Lacroix. This is a very convenient location for walking visits
to the narrow streets of the old quarter on the right bank, which are lined with crooked medieval half-
timbered buildings (colombages) housing restaurants and shops of antiques and collectibles, along with
modern boutiques. On the fringes of the old quarter are museums of art and history as well as the
cathedral and other significant churches.

The city's main historical fame is the spot where Joan of Arc
was burned at the stake, now marked by a modern and very
beautiful church, as well as a museum and research library
devoted to the politics of her era.

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen was one of Claude Monet's recurring subjects.
Some of these paintings, along with other impressionists, are included in the broad-ranging
collections of the Musée des Beaux Arts. Nearby are the ceramics museum, displaying
17th century faïence de Rouen, and a museum of wrought ironworks.
Culture and shopping can be balanced by the lively nightlife of the city, with many music venues.

Rouen to Amfreville-Poses lock The final forty kilometers of the tidal Seine present no navigational
difficulties, but neither is there much of interest. Don’t be surprised when you see the town of Amfreville-
la-Mi-Voie (Amfreville-midway?) right after departing Rouen, for the actual destination of this leg is
Amfreville-sous-les-Monts (Amfreville-under-the-hills), another 35 kilometers further on. At the bottom
of the river loop which doubles the length of this trip is Elbeuf, a city whose time as an important textile
manufacturing center has passed. There are two beautiful churches that can be visited from a quai-side
mooring on the left bank, however the port is on the other side of the river and can only be accessed at
high tide.
The non-navigable river Eure joins the Seine from the south near here, at Pont de l’Arche. This
junction signals the change from a free-flowing river to a canalized waterway (although still with a slight
tidal range until the lock) as the Seine becomes more narrow. In early times this was the location of the
last bridge on the Seine, and there was a lock here in the 19th century.
The modern lock between the villages of Amfreville and Poses is the tidal barrier; depending on
the state of the tide, the rise in the lock ranges between 4.40 and 7.90 meters. Boaters arriving from the
inland waterways should check with the office of the Service de la Navigation, located near the lock, for
tide (marées) schedules and travel advice. Because the lock is very busy with commercial traffic it may be
best to tie up at the Gribouillard restaurant pontoon in Poses, reached by turning to the south behind the
island upstream from the lock, then walk or bike across the barrage to visit the lock offices.
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The Seine downstream from Paris

The Lower Seine (Seine Aval, Basse Seine) includes the most beautiful scenery and pleasant cruising of
anywhere on the river. Traffic lanes occasionally split around narrow islands, offering respite from the
usual string of commercial barges. Fishing cabins alternate with year-around half-timbered houses and
flowering gardens along the wooded banks. White chalk cliffs rise behind the greenery along the river.
Although there are several locks, this section is a river rather than a canal, so it is important to plan
overnight moorings in advance. It won’t be possible to just tie-up along the banks of the river as can often
be done on other waterways in France, and commercial traffic will pass by throughout the night. Using
the suggestions below and the waterway charts, select a destination and call ahead if possible.

Rouen Amfreville-Poses lock

Connelles Les Andelys

Notre-Dame de la Garenne lock

Notre-Dame de l'Isle

La Roche-Guyon

Vernon
Mericourt lock Oi Conflans-
Port d'Ilon se Ste-Honorine
Rolleboise Meulan
Limay Andresy Ports:
Les lock Genneviliers
Mantes Mureaux
la Jolie Sisley Canal
Port St Louis Van
Chatou Gogh St Denis
Poissy
Port Marly Suresnes
Bougival Rueil- lock
PARIS
Malmaison

Seine Aval (Basse Seine): Amfreville-Poses lock to Paris (Suresnes lock)

Connelles There is an opportunity to stop for an overnight stay (whether traveling by boat or by car) at a
very nice riverside hotel and restaurant, Le Moulin de Connelles, off the main river channel on the five
kilometer bras (arm) de Connelles, between PK 194-199. (See Useful Addresses for contact information.)

Les Andelys, located at the tip of a river loop, offers a small but very pleasant port at the base of the
cliffs, in the Petit Andely section. Directly above is the Château Gaillard, a medieval fortress built by
Richard the Lion-Heart at the end of the 12th century to prevent the king of France from passing down the
Seine to Rouen. The ruins of the fortress are an impressive sight from below and a climb to the top of the
cliff offers a vast panoramic view over the river and its islands.

Notre-Dame-de-la-Garenne lock and dam may appear quite daunting; the barrage stretches across the
river and on the south side are four parallel lock chambers. The lockkeeper can be reached by VHF radio
or telephone, but mostly watch for the green light which will indicate the lock that you should enter. Four
kilometers upstream, the docks at Port St Gabriel are located off the main channel at Notre-Dame-de-
l’Isle.
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Vernon/Giverny boasts the most famous tourist destination along this part of the river, the home and gardens
of Monet. Vernon is the larger town, on the left bank; its convenient mooring quai is frequently occupied by
large river cruise ships and hotel barges. Across the river, in a park
at the picturesque ruins of a stone bridge, are the docks of the
sailing club, available to transient boats. (The entrance to the
docks is directly from the river, not through the bridge
as it may appear.)

Monet's home at Giverny is an easy bike ride on a

3-km path. He lived from here from1883 until his
death in 1926. The waterlily ponds and Japanese
bridge of Monet's garden are familiar to lovers of
Impressionist art, and remain almost as they were
a century ago.
Port d'Ilon (écluse de Méricourt) Located in the lagoons created by a nearby sand & gravel plant, the port is
only a few years old but is popular and well-established as the primary fuel stop and chandlery between Paris
and Rouen. It is a peaceful overnight stop, a good place to relax and dine aboard, although just a few kilometers
away on a level road is the charming tiny village of Sandrancourt and its equally charming restaurant/bar. We
missed dining there because of schedule pressures, but often think of returning, the place looks so inviting that
we are sure that the food must be delicious as well. Or travel across the river to Rolleboise for a panoramic view
of the Seine valley at the splendid restaurant (and hotel) Château de la Corniche.

Industrial sand operations (sablières) can be seen along here on both sides of the river, accounting for the
many barges filled with sand traveling in both directions (I can understand the sight of sand-filled barges
headed towards Paris, but have always wondered why they are also seen going downstream, back toward
the source but still loaded. Guess I should ask a bargee!)

Mantes-la-Jolie/Limay: Midway between Rouen and Paris, “Mantes-the-Pretty” is in fact an attractive

small city, along with its suburb Limay across the river. Two long narrow islands separate river traffic
from a tree-lined bras (arm of the river) where there are pleasure-boat ports on the Limay side (right
bank.) The arches of an old stone bridge from Limay to the upstream island are a very beautiful sight
when viewed from the river or while crossing the new bridge between the towns. The massive Notre
Dame cathedral alongside the river in Mantes rivals the more famous one in Paris.
Meulan/Les Mureaux are another pair of cross-river towns with pleasure-boat docks, although not as pretty
and interesting as Mantes/Limay.
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There is a great deal of industry along the river here,

including a large Renault automobile plant; while cruising
on the Seine you will undoubtedly pass one of their daily
barge transports filled with as many as 400 new cars and
small trucks, either bound for the Paris docks or to Rouen
for export. Occasionally an Ariane rocket is loaded on a
barge from the workshops of Aérospatiale, bound for the
launchpad at Guyana. The barge shown at left is loaded
with the more common cargo of sand or stones.
These barges travel on the river throughout the night, even
though there are very few lighted navigation marks. The
captains steer by radar, lighting from the nearby towns
and an intimate knowledge of the river. Extra fees are
charged for the after-hours use of locks. Pleasure craft are
prohibted from traveling at night.

Port St Louis, like Port d’Ilon, is located in a lagoon left behind by sand operations. It is possible to taxi from
the port into Poissy, but then where are you? In a quite drab industrial city, with a major Peugeot/Citroen factory.
The river itself is attractive at Poissy, especially at a curve with ruins of a stone bridge. There are some historical
sites, including the Notre Dame church and an abbey with two museums. However after living nearby on the
Seine for six months I agree with the comment in the Navicarte Guide: "Poissy is also a major industrial centre
thanks to the motor car industry, which has left its mark on the town".

Conflans Ste Honorine/ Andresy/ river Oise

This major waterway intersection has historically
been the busy center of transport barging in France.
Probably because of this working-barge history, the
city does not offer any accomodations or services
for pleasure boats. Even French boaters are surprised
when they plan to stop here overnight and find it
impossible. An alternative nearby mooring is the
pontoon at Andresy, located behind the island at the
lock, adjacent to a few small restaurants. Visitors
complain that this mooring is dirty, as debris flowing
down the river tends to be trapped here. But it can
be a base for an excursion by taxi or bus to Conflans
to view the rows of permanently-moored peniches, a
retirement village for bargees. Also recommended is a
visit to the Musée de la Batellerie, the national museum
of the history of barge transport in France, a very complete and interesting display.
Connecting Waterways, via river Oise: The river Oise is a principal route into Paris and central France
for vessels arriving from all of northern Europe, from Calais/Dunkerque through Belgium and The
Netherlands. For details, refer to these EuroCanals Guides:
“South from The Netherlands”
“The Waterways of Northern France" -
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From the Oise into Paris there is a continuous series of suburban towns, but the river itself and its wooded
banks remain surprisingly pleasant. The curving ridgeline starts at Conflans and includes the towns of
Herblay, La Frette and Sartrouville, with rows of
attractive homes scattered up the hillside. It was
from a terrace on this ridge that we watched the
fireworks celebrations on Bastille Day 2002;
because of the curves of the Seine, we could see
eleven displays at once in towns from Poissy to
St-Germain-en-Laye.

The flatland across the river is the site of a campus

of modern industrial buildings that look like an
aerospace factory but are actually the sewage
treatment plant for Paris, the source of the stream
entering from the left bank which seems to be a
strong attraction for gulls! But it is not unpleasant
on the river, a row of liveaboard barges moor here
along the La Frette shoreline. One year-around
resident family has summer visitors tied alongside,
who have brought along their car for excursions
ashore.

At St Germain-en-Laye/Le Pecq the ridge curves the river back in another loop. The famous château of
St Germain is now the national museum of antiquities. The terraced grounds of the château step down to
the Seine. Nearby, Port Marly is an interesting village with a row of liveaboard barges (no transient
docking, tie-up at the quai near the Le Pecq bridge.) Walk upstream on the left bank along the bras de
Marly (a dead-end channel, the upstream end of the bras de Marly is blocked by a dam) to see dozens of
converted barges and smaller boats moored under the trees; some residents of these floating homes
commute daily into Paris.
The Trail of the Impressionists begins here at a riverside park near the center of the village of Port
Marly. This is a walking and driving route marked by panels showing fullsize reproductions of well-
known Impressionist paintings, located in front of the very scene that is depicted. It is interesting to
compare the scene of today with the way it looked a century ago; often there is very little change. (A
leaflet with map is available from the local tourist office.) Port-Marly experienced tremendous floods in
1876, and the artist Alfred Sisley was there to record the Seine’s flood water surrounding the old inn on
the street corner and creeping up through an avenue of trees towards the villagers standing in front of their
houses. The trees have grown and the old inn has changed its name to Le Brazza, but otherwise the scene
remains the same.
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Bougival locks (four parallel locks of varying size,

ranging from Freycinet gauge to huge) mark the
beginning of a 9 km island in the Seine; pleasure
boats usually pass through this lock to cruise the
channel closest to the left bank, which is narrower
and more scenic. Large commercial barges continue
on the broader right-bank channel to the alternate
Chatou lock. Pleasant moorings can be found both
before and after the Bougival locks, a short walk to
a choice of restaurants. Or if you are touring the
Seine by car, there is a very nice hotel here on the
flowered banks of the river, Hôtel Villa des
Impressionnistes
Chatou barrage-lock, a peniche and car-transport exiting (see Useful Addresses for contact information.)

Chatou & Rueil-Malmaison These towns, located

at opposite ends of a common bridge, couldn't be
more different. Chatou, on the right bank, is a classic
French town with 19th century architecture, open-air
cafes, several quality restaurants and a popular street
market (Saturdays.)

On the island between is Maison Fournaise, a

restaurant, still open,which was the meeting place
for artists inckuding Renoir, Degas, Monet and
Manet. The balcony of the restaurant, directly
over the river bank, was the setting for Renoir's
Luncheon of the Boating Party.
The dock here is often occupied by hotel barges or
tour boats, however the halte at Chatou is just a short
walk downstream, near the bridge to the center of Maison Fournaise
Chatou (the photo at top was taken from that bridge.)

At the other end of the bridge is the section named

Rueil-Malmaison 2000 a new development of modern offices,
apartments and commercial buildings. The city-operated dock
provides a good mooring with shops and restaurants and a quick
rail connection into Paris via the RER, a version of the Metro that
reaches into the suburbs.
Uphill and behind the modern part of the city is Château Malmaison,
an 18th century castle bought by Napoleon's wife Josephine in 1799
which became her favorite residence; Napoleon purportedly stayed
there with her briefly on his way to exile after the defeat at Waterloo. "Trail of the Impressionists" poster
It is now a museum of Napoleonic artifacts.
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(Refer to the Paris map on page 16 for details of this section)

Port de Genneviliers A great deal of the commercial barge traffic will exit or enter the river here, for this
is the bulk-cargo port area of Paris. There are no pleasure-boat ports or services here (and no other reason
to enter the area.)
Ile St Denis/Port Sisley Just beyond Port de Genneviliers
the long narrow strip of Ile St Denis splits the river into
two parallel channels which curve for 7 km through a turn
of 180 degrees, from a northeast to a southwest heading.
The narrower inside (left bank) channel is for upstream
traffic only. Beginning at Port Sisley, where space may be
available for long-term docking of pleasure boats, the left
bank is continuously lined with liveaboard barges at
permanent moorings. These vessels range from beautiful
and grand to abandoned hulks.

The outside channel at Ile St Denis, with two-way traffic, is more commonly used by vessels bound
into Paris. Here there is a choice of routes, for you can either continue on the Seine or turn east onto the
Canal St Denis, one of three canals owned and operated by the city of Paris. Canal St Denis is a 6.6 km
stretch of industrial warehouses and unloading wharves for bulk materials. If you have traveled into Paris
from Charles de Gaulle airport you may have noticed this canal as the highway and rail line pass over it
just north of the Stade de France (the modern-style stadium that is a landmark on the way into the city.)
The canal is far from scenic; it is used primarily by commercial barges with destinations there or by
commercial and private boats wishing to shorten their trip through Paris, especially if the destination is
the Arsenal Marina. The latter traffic connects into the very beautiful and interesting Canal St Martin, a 5
km-9 lock & tunnel passage through Paris neighborhoods directly into the marina.
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Port Van Gogh at Asnieres:

The marina is an interesting sight, as its docks open
directly onto the river and there are many
attractive barges and yachts to be seen when passing by.
Some space is available for transients and there is a
restaurant at the docks, as well as shopping nearby.
Asnieres is on the left bank; the city of Clichy, which
extends into Paris, is at the opposite end of a bridge near
the marina. A Metro line crosses the bridge. However,
access into central Paris is not as convenient as at other
ports further upstream.

Dog and cat lovers should make an effort to stop here for a
visit to the adjacent cimètiere des chiens, a wonderful
cemetery for (a few of) the dogs of Paris. It is also a haven
for dozens of live cats, fed daily by several ladies from the
neighborhood. A monument erected in 1900 near the
entrance memorializes Barry, a St. Bernard that rescued
forty-one people in the Alps. A phrase on the scroll reads
"Il sauva la vie à 40 personnes, il fut tué par la 41eme!"
Thinking that the brave dog was a wolf, the 41st person
struck him with an ice-axe; even so, Barry was able to
return to the monastery for help before expiring, thus
saving his killer as well!

La Defense The city of Paris retains a unique and special place among the world's cities because it has been
successful in preventing the construction of large glass-faced office towers in the center of the city. Most of
the major modern office buildings have been located at La Defense, on the west side of the Seine. The sleek
square-cornered arch in the Esplanade de La Defense faces directly down a long boulevard to the Arc de
Triomphe in central Paris. Some of the modern architecture is interesting and can be seen from the river.

Suresnes lock Selecting the point on the river at which Paris begins can be debated, but for me it is the lock at
Suresnes, which sets the water level for the bief through Paris all the way to beyond the junction with the Marne.
Downstream of this lock the Seine has been separated from the city by the suburbs of St Denis, Clichy, Levallois
and Neuilly; above the lock, the Bois de Boulogne leads directly into Paris. The waterfront strip along the park is
home to liveaboard barges, waterside restaurants and various boating clubs. A three kilometer section of river
above the lock is designated a bassin de vitesse, voile, aviron et canotage, allowing waterskiing, sailing, rowing
and canoeing, which is otherwise banned on most of the river in the Paris area. There are numerous boat sales,
service and chandler businesses located here.

Boulogne-Billancourt One more loop of the river, where river traffic splits around the scythe-shaped Ile Seguin,
and then you will be in Paris, with a superb view of the majestic Eiffel Tower dominating the scene.
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CDG
Airport
Ile St Denis

Port de
Genneviliers Port
Sisley

Seine
Aval
Port
Van Gogh Canal
St Denis
La Defense Canal
de l'Ourcq
Suresnes Bassin
lock de la Villette
Marina
Passerelle Bois Arc de Triomphe Canal
de l'Avre Champs
de Halte Concorde
Elysee St Martin
Boulogne
PK 0
Eiffel Tower
Halte Grenelle Ile Arsenal
Notre St Louis Marina
Dame

PARIS Marne

Port à
l'Anglais
lock

Seine
Amont
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Seine through Paris

The Seine flows directly through the center of Paris, essentially cutting the city in half and creating the famous
rive gauche "left bank" and rive droite "right bank" sections. But the city isn't really divided, for there are 30
bridges (and several rail tunnels) providing crossings for pedestrian, bicycle, automobile and rail traffic. Some
of these bridges are mundane modern structures, others are of very elegant and beautiful stone design, hundreds
of years old. There are many sights to be seen while
cruising through Paris on the Seine, but the bridges
are the ones that are best seen from a boat. Books
have been written about the bridges, so just a few
of them will be mentioned here.
The Pont de Grenelle crosses at the downstream
end of the Allée des Cygnes, a long narrow island
in the middle of the river. At the tip of the island is
a mini-version of the Statue of Liberty in New York
harbor. The island splits the river into two channels;
upstream traffic has the option of using the one-way
Bras de Grenelle, shown below, or the two-way
main channel.

The quai at the right side of this photo (left bank) is a

base for river cruise ships and dinner-excursion boats,
and beyond the rail bridge is the relatively new Halte
de Grenelle. This port is quickly becoming popular as
a base for vessels visiting Paris, for it is a pleasant tree-
shaded mooring in a very convenient location. It is a
short walk to Metro and RER stations, and only two
blocks from the Eiffel Tower.

The Bir Hakeim bridge crosses at the upstream end of

the port, for an easy and pleasant stroll over the river to
the very agreeable Passy district, which offers museums,
restaurants, cinema and shops of all types.
A recommended excursion from this mooring is a walk
or taxi to the Musée Marmottan, a small museum on the
edge of the Bois de Boulogne that features many paintings
by Monet including the waterlily ponds at Giverny.
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The spectacular views from the

Bir Hakeim bridge include the
one at left. Liveaboard barges
are prevalent in this section, on
both banks of the river as far as
the pont de l'Alma. At that point
the river is taken over by dozens
of Bateaux Mouches, sight-
seeing boats for those who did
not arrive in Paris aboard their
own vessel. The name comes
from a quarter of the city of
Lyon, La Mouche, where the
shipyards that first built these
boats are located. But I prefer
the other connotation of the word
mouches, "flies", for these boats
dart around the surface of the
water just like a swarm of busy
flies. The captains act as if it is
"their" river and are not courteous
to visiting private boats.

The continuous passing of tour boats, even late into

the night, combines with the traffic of freight barges
to make a mooring at the Port des Champs Elysées
uncomfortable. The port stretches along the right
bank near the lower end of the Champs Elysées from
pont des Invalides to Place de la Concorde, This is a
perfect location in the center of Paris, but it is often
difficult to find space here.

The port is behind the tour boats in the photo at left.

The bridge shown is the pont Alexandre III, the most
elegantly decorated of the bridges over the Seine with
four columns topped by sculptures of golden horses.
As with other monumental bridges in Paris, it
connects between major sites, in this case the Hôtel des
Invalides and the Grand Palais - Petit Palais.
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The National Assembly building is at the left-bank

end of the pont de la Concorde, directly across
from Port des Champs Elysées. The cruiser shown
here is headed upstream and is properly using an
arch that is marked by two yellow diamonds, for
one-way passage. The single yellow marker on the
center arch indicates two-way traffic. Private boats
should always use an arch closest to the bank, if not
marked as prohibited. Skippers should always know
the rules of navigation, and in the center of Paris it
is essential to follow them rigorously. The use of
VHF radio has recently become mandatory on the
Seine through Paris.

The river splits around the islands ile de la Cité and ile St
Louis; two-way traffic continues on the right-bank channel
past ile de la Cité and then switches to the left-bank side of
ile St Louis. In the latter section, traffic direction alternates
twice every hour; it is necessary to monitor the lights.

The narrow channel alongside the first island, shown at left,

is one-way upstream, offering some relief for skippers.
Now the only concern is for anxious tour-boat captains who
may want to overtake. Passage is through the center arch
when there are no marks indicating otherwise.

The stone walls along the river look even higher

here in a narrow section. There are usually people
on the lower quais enjoying a break from city life;
in good weather there will be many sunbathers,
some in the French style of little or no clothing.
Above the walls it is possible to get glimpses of
sights such as Notre Dame Cathedral.
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This barge is waiting for the green light, to proceed

downstream past ile St Louis. It is not a bad place
to wait, for this scene is one of the best views in all
of Paris.
Be careful not to be lured into following a tour boat
downstream on the right-bank channel; they have
special permission to do this. Freight barges and
private vessels must adhere to the alternating
schedule and use the channel at far left.

The best port in Paris, especially for long stays, is the Port de Plaisance de Paris Arsenal. It is protected from
the traffic and rough waters of the Seine by a lock and is closed from the surrounding streets at night, offering
some security. It is adjacent to Place de la Bastille, a major Paris district. There are metro stations at each end
of the port.

Boaters who have bypassed central Paris by using

the Canal St Denis - Canal St Martin route will
arrive at the Arsenal port from the tunnel shown at
right, a 2 kilometer passage under the boulevards
and directly beneath the monument in the center of
Bastille. The row of windows above the tunnel are
the Bastille metro stop.
At the Seine end of the port, entrance through the
lock is initiated by stopping at a pontoon on the
right bank of the river, where there is an electrical
box to signal the lockkeeper.
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The Seine upstream from Paris

Above Paris the Seine collects the flows of four rivers (Marne, Loing, Yonne and Aube), draining a large
area of central France. The river is referred to as the Haute Seine (Upper Seine) all the way to the source
near Dijon and as the Seine Amont as far as the upper limit of navigation at Marcilly. The section from the
Yonne junction to Marcilly is often called Petite Seine.

The upper Seine, while a pleasant cruising area in its own right, is useful for connecting to multiple
waterways:
• The Marne river joins the Seine just at the southern edge of Paris, offering a route through
Champagne that can be used to travel east to Strasbourg and the Rhine, north to Belgium and The
Netherlands via the Meuse, or south to the rivers Saône and Rhône.
• The Loing river is the link to the Loire valley and the beginning of Canaux du Centre, four canals
that skirt the western edge of Burgundy enroute to a junction with the Saône and Rhône.
• The Yonne leads through central Burgundy to that same junction via the Canal de Bourgogne or
the Canal du Nivernais.

PARIS
rne
Charenton Ma
Champagne
Draveil Brie
Aube
Marcilly
Corbeil
Morsang-sur-Seine Pont-sur-Seine
Marnay-sur-Seine
Se
Melun ine
Chartrettes Nogent-sur-Seine
Bois-le-Roi
Samois-sur-Seine Hericy Troyes
Valvins Champagne- Bray
sur-Seine Marolles-sur-Seine
Fontainebleau Montereau
Moret-sur-Loing St Mammès Yo
nne
Lo
in

Châtillon-sur-Seine
g

Seine Amont
Petite Seine
Burgundy source
Seine (non-navigable) St Seine-l'Abbaye
Dijon
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Seine Amont (Haute Seine): Marne river junction to Yonne river junction
The last of the beautiful stone-arch bridges of Paris is the
Pont Bercy; the multiple arches of the top level carry a
Metro line. Behind the elegant white tjalk bound upstream
is a moored peniche used as a chandlery and fuel station.
The tall slender building is one of four matching towers
of the national library, Bibliothèque Francois Mitterand.
Directly across the river under a squared-off mound of
grass is the Bercy Palais Omnisports, the major sports and
popular music concert venue of Paris.

At the end of a 5 km straight section, between the

suburbs of Charenton and Alfortville, the river rounds
a slight curve and confronts a large pagoda-roofed
building (a Chinese restaurant and cultural center) in
a sharp fork. The river Marne is at left and the Haute
Seine is at right.
The next 15 kilometers on the Seine are an industrial
port area, busy with barge traffic. But then the right
bank becomes wooded and soon there is the first
marina south of Paris, Le port aux Cerises at Draveil. The marina is part of a large regional park, a good place
for walking and jogging. Shopping, restaurants and a rail station for SNCF & RER lines is across a bridge at
Juvisny, offering easy access into Paris. Orly airport is just west of the river; the latter is good for access, not so
good for noise. This marina can be a convenient place to moor for an extended period.

The Seine leaves the metro area here, it is still not rural
but the banks of the river are wooded and the towns
are separated by fields & woods. There are occasional
moorings to be found, but most cruisers will probably
choose to simply pass by these towns, enjoying the
view of homes scattered along the low ridges that line
the curves of the river. Above the Coudray lock at
Morsang-sur-Seine there are beautiful country
homes on the banks of the river as well as occasional
live-aboard barges permanently tied up at small lots
with road access.
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Melun is a small city that marks the end of the metropolitan area and offers frequent rail access to Paris or
southbound. The nearby Château Vaux-le-Vicomte is the first of the great châteaux built in the 17th
century, an impressive sight with elegant gardens. This city is in the Brie cheese district; the Brie de
Melun is favored by some as superior to those of other towns in the district. A quiet mooring is available
behind an island, separated from the passing commercial traffic, but right in the center of the city.

Fontainebleau, with its famous château and large forest which stretches from Melun to the Loing
junction, is a much-visited historic and recreational center for visitors from Paris and the surrounding
area. There are several pleasant stops here on the S-curves of the Seine. The first is at the cross-river
villages of Chartrettes and Bois-le-Roi (The King’s Woods), which bracket the La Cave lock. Then
Samois-sur-Seine, where quite a number of liveaboards moor behind the island on Dutch barges. The
village is very agreeable and, if you are into jazz or even just a fun evening, there is a Django Reinhardt
festival each summer in June; the guitarist is buried in the village. It is also a good place to walk uphill to
the west for a panoramic view of the Forest of Fontainebleau and the twisting, wooded Seine valley. But
those on boats get a special treat, for here the forest extends right to the river’s edge and there are islands
with dense woods. Look for the church and the terraced riverside park at Héricy.

The closest mooring for a visit to the château are the docks of Port Stéphane Mellarmé at Valvins. This
marina, named for a poet who lived in Valvins, is the home of the only significant rental-boat base along
the entire Seine, Seine et Loing Rivières, a Locaboat Plaisance affiliate.

Junction of Seine & Loing rivers: The river Loing (Canal du Loing) joins the Seine from the south at
the town of St Mammès; this intersection rivals Conflans-Sainte-Honorine as the center of barge traffic
and retired peniches. There are dozens of commercial barges tied up here in rows, out of service or
waiting for contracts. The northern bank of the Seine, at Champagne-sur-Seine, is similarly lined with
barges, most with families living aboard. Both towns are suitable for provisioning, especially the row of
barge-oriented chandleries and curiosity shops along the waterfront at St Mammès.
Moret-sur-Loing is, as its name states, not on the Seine, however a two-kilometer side trip to visit this
interesting and beautiful town is highly recommended. The town offers several special events, including
heritage and music festivals, wine, cheese, crafts and antiques fairs as well as a sound-and-light show. Its
most famous attraction is its association with the impressionist Alfred Sisley. Many of the picturesque
sights of the town, including the mill and the splendid multiple-arched bridge, were the subjects of
Sisley’s paintings; several of these have been reproduced in almost billboard size for display on the stone
walls of buildings in the town center.

Back on the Seine, continuing upstream, the confluence with the much larger river Yonne is just a few
kilometers ahead at Montereau. This is a small city, and another commercial barge center, with full
services available. The pleasure-boat port is around the corner on the Yonne. Visit the museum of
earthenware; otherwise it is a rather drab industrial city. Across the Seine at Surville, the 25-story hilltop
apartment blocks can be seen for many kilometers from the rivers or from the autoroutes; they usually
elicit a “What’s that?” comment from first-time viewers when seen from a distance.

Yonne river is the connecting link to the Canal de Bourgogne and the Canal du Nivernais, both of which
allow passage to destinations further south in France. Or visit the interesting towns of Sens, Joigny and
Auxerre on the Yonne itself.
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Petite Seine: Yonne river junction to Marcilly

After the Yonne, there are no more connections to other waterways. A cruise up the Petite Seine must be a
round-trip, but it is a quiet, pleasant area through a wooded riparian strip between agricultural and sand
quarry areas. Although the twisting river is sometimes bypassed by straight canalized sections with
concrete banks, that doesn’t deter from the enjoyment of the natural tree-lined surroundings. The portion
below Nogent continues to utilize the very large locks (180X11.4 meters) seen so far on the Seine and is
used by commercial barges transporting sand and cereals, but traffic is not heavy. Above Nogent, the
locks are Freycinet-gauge and traffic is so infrequent that passage must be explicitly requested from a
lockkeeper.

Bray-sur-Seine is an easy one-day cruise from Montereau and a good place for an overnight stay and an
evening stroll along the riverside, as well as a visit to Notre-Dame et-Sainte-Croix Collegiate Church.
Nogent-sur-Seine, the largest town on the Petite Seine, is marked by a huge flat-fronted six-story mill building
that spans most of the river. There is a mooring quai below the mill, but the best location for an overnight (or
longer) stay is at the port above the mill. Follow the
channel along the right bank and pass through the
first of the smaller locks, then turn downstream;
the port is in the section of river dead-ended above
the mill. It is a short walk from shops, restaurants
and the rail station, and a base for strolls past many
beautiful historic dwellings, home of Henri IV,
Louis XIV, Napoleon, Flaubert and Camille Claudel.
A stop at this town is strongly recommended.

For those who may wish to visit by car or rail, from

October through June this port is the base of the hotel
barge Quietude, offering chambres d'hôtes (bed &
breakfast) accomodations, with dinner aboard as well.
The barge is shown above at Nogent and at left moored
at another quai on the Petite Seine.
(See Useful Addresses for contact information.)

Nearby on a terrace overlooking the natural Seine is the

Chateau de La Motte-Tilly, open for public visits. Inside
is a fine collection of 18th century furniture. The French
gardens are open for strolls down to the river.
Although the chateau is just short distance from the Melz
lock, the waterway here is a canalized section. Access is
difficult, so it is best to plan an excursion from Nogent.
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The final navigable part of the Petite Seine is the most natural, in spite of (and also because of) the presence of
a nearby nuclear generating station. The government has established a nature reserve as part of the station in an
effort to promote and enhance the "Green" values of the area.
And it works, there is an abundance of wildlife to be seen and
enjoyed. Birdwatchers can expect to see many herons, osprey,
storks and dozens of varieties of waterbirds.

The center of this environment is at Pont-sur-Seine,

a village with character and a long history, a good
place to spend some time walking the narrow streets
and viewing the tall mansions. The elegant liftbridge
over the canal is not the one in the name of the town;
the bridge over the natural river is at the other end of
the village. Across that bridge are several viewpoints
and trails for birding walks.

The limit of navigation is reached at Marcilly, a charming small village. Just above is the junction
of the Aube, the Seine and the disused Canal de Haute Seine.

To the source; the non-navigable Seine

Above its junction with the Aube, a tributary larger than itself, the Seine becomes very shallow
and twisty. Barge traffic could previously travel to the northern edge of the city of Troyes on the
Canal de Haute Seine, but that canal is now closed.

For a very pleasant excursion, follow the river to its source by car or bicycle (150 kilometers
from Marcilly.) Take highway RN71 south out of Troyes, through the southern section of the
Champagne wine region and the adjacent northern section of the Burgundy wine region, to the
town of Châtillon-sur-Seine (a rail line follows the same route.) The highway continues on
through the rising green hillsides of Burgundy toward Dijon. A suitable destination is the
charming village of St Seine-l’Abbaye, just a few kilometers from the source at St Germain-
Source-Seine.

The source is owned by the city of Paris. In 1865 a statue of the goddess Sequana was installed
here in a grotto; numerous Gallo-Roman artifacts have been discovered in the nearby area.
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Personal Memoir: Six Months at Val d’Herblay

We have spent many pleasant days here on the banks of the Seine, a six-hour cruise downstream from
Paris, where the metropolis starts to change to countryside. There is a strip of trees and a walking path on
each bank. We are on the right bank; for almost ten kilometers the path is part of a narrow grassy park
maintained by the towns of La Frette, Herblay and Conflans-Sainte-Honorine. Alongside is a boulevard,
Quai de la Seine, then rows of fine homes terraced up the ridge, each surrounded by lush greenery and
flower gardens. In the French manner, the yards are completely enclosed within walls or fences, or dense
hedges. Across the river, poplar trees line the bank in a straight line, with green and yellow open fields
behind. The walking path there is a simple trail maintained by the feet of weekend hikers.

A row of liveaboard converted 38-meter peniches lines our side of the river. They are all well-kept and
attractive vessels, we never tire of admiring them and watching for the latest paint touchup or new
plantings of flowerboxes. A 12-meter barge, the Neptune, is inhabited by a dog named Juliette and her
master, a man who perhaps has named the vessel for his imagined self. The deck is permanently decorated
with strings of faded flags, old engine parts and a standing female mannequin, kept dressed appropriately
for each change of season. We occasionally speak with the captain, a retired bargee and a colorful
character.

In the late afternoon and early evening, the light that so inspired the Impressionists appears. Underneath
the broad blue sky float low, dark clouds fringed with white and pink edges. Looking across the river and
the fields toward the sun, a pale glow bounces off the water through a haze of thin mist which filters the
light. Turning toward the ridge, with the sun behind us, the trees and houses there are in stark, bright
contrast, the white stucco houses standing out, the stone or brick houses clearly outlined by the light but
blending with the green and purple leaves of the trees, their windows glowing gold with reflected
sunlight.

Mornings are not the same, not as thrilling as the evenings. The sun comes up behind the high ridge and
thus can’t hit the water, which is usually in fog. The best part of the morning is the stillness, and then the
sight of a fully-loaded barge, with its decks almost awash, appearing suddenly and quietly through the
fog.

We visit Paris frequently, a 22 minute train ride from Herblay to Gare St Lazare. In Paris, the Seine is a
much different river, contained by concrete walls and roiled by seemingly dozens of Bateaux Mouches,
rushing to get their load of tourists past all the sights as quickly as possible, get them disembarked and get
on with the next boatload. (“See Paris with us, Commentary in five languages!” Spanish-speaking tourists
ride in the back of the boat, so that they can still see the landmark by the time the commentary sequence
gets to Spanish.) The water flows rapidly under the many bridges and splashes back from the concrete
abutments. Waves which have no direction, just constant action, rock the barges moored along the quais
and tied to posts in the river. Visiting boaters at the Port de Concorde rock continuously, glad to be in
such a fabulous location in the center of the City of Light but unhappy and uncomfortable with the
constant motion, the noise and the bright lights of the tour boats’ spotlights at night.

After Paris, the river flows smoothly around long constant-radius curves, first turning from south to north,
then north to south, two great loops before reaching the open countryside on the edge of the city and its
suburbs. When it passes La Frette and Herblay, the river is broad, uncontained, free to split softly around
Ile d’Herblay, a narrow islet densely wooded and used mostly by youth groups on overnight outings. The
banks are grassy, a curve of green hanging out over the water. There is no current, no visible wavelets to
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show which way the river is flowing; it doesn’t appear to be flowing at all, it is a still lake curving
alongside the high ridge of trees and stone houses. When the wind blows from the south or west, light
ripples move upstream, defying the current.

And through city and country, the man-and-wife (and sometimes kids, dogs and chickens) peniches glide
slowly and implacably through the water, the blunt bow pushing a small white wave and the rounded
stern leaving a slight dark vee that follows with the boat and disappears before it reaches the shore; only
the occasional ungainly white plastic motorcruiser, bow in the air, makes a wake that can be seen and
heard as it crashes off the banks. On the barges, just a few inches of freeboard protect the usual load of
sand from the water. A low bass rumble is all that announces the passing of these workhorses.

October 15, 2002 was the busiest day we have seen; well over 100 barges passed by, often three or four in
sight at the same time. On an average day, perhaps thirty to fifty barges pass. We often wonder why there
are loaded barges coming down from Paris and what they might contain, most likely trash or recycled
materials.

Occasionally the “Big Boys” pass, huge river transport barges as big as ten or even twenty peniches,
headed to Paris carrying sea-going containers from Le Havre, or large tanks of petroleum, or hundreds of
new cars from the Renault factory not far downstream. We can hear them coming from far away, a harsh
roar from their multiple big engines that hangs over the river for a long time after they have gone.
Across the river and beyond the poplars and the fields, there is a sparkling modern factory, with shiny
metal domes and pipes among smooth white concrete walls. It could be the place where AirBus planes or
French spacecraft to explore Mars are built. But it’s really the most mundane works of all, the largest
wastewater purification plant in Europe, the Station de Epuration de Achères, the sewage treatment plant
for all of Paris. It must do its job well, its effluent flows into the Seine like a small tributary river but it is
noticed mostly by flocks of gulls. Waterskiers are frequently in the water below the plant, but they don’t
seem to mind.

The fields between the plant and the river contain cornstalk stubble from last year, still not plowed under.
These fields are part of the tree and shrub nursery for the city of Paris, but perhaps they are now being
cycled through another crop for the good of the soil. North of the fields is a small park, with a dock for the
tiny bac (passenger ferry) which travels back & forth, connecting this rather isolated area with Herblay.
During the week the ferry provides transportation to the sewer plant for workers and their motorscooters.
On weekends, the City of Paris allows the general public to ride across the river at no charge, although
there is a bucket for tips to the crew. It is a quick trip from the suburbs directly into the countryside.

The Herblay ferry dock is down a steep hill from a very beautiful Romanesque church. Either place is
well-located for our frequent 5:00 PM sentinels to watch for the arrival of the Concorde, returning to
Charles de Gaulle Airport from New York. Its unique shape and flight style can immediately be picked
out from the string of normal passenger and freight jet airplanes as they follow the valley of the Seine into
Paris. We can probably first see them when they are still over Rouen. The sound and sight of the
Concorde on a low approach to CDG is always an unmatched thrill, and of course leads to thoughts about
the vast difference between that style of travel as compared to the slow, quiet barges traveling the same
general route.
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River Cruise Ships & Hotel Barges Page 28

If you are interested in seeing the Seine from Paris to the sea but don't have a vessel of your own in Europe,
one of the several river cruise ships or a hotel barge that travel this route may be a good option. (There are no
rental boats available on this part of the river.) See Useful Addresses for contact information.

The Viking Normandie and its identical

twin Viking Arlène travel between Paris
and Honfleur on an 8-day cruise (or as
far as Vernon or Les Andelys on 4 or 5
day schedules.) These long, narrow
vessels (91 X 10.5 meters) carry up to
106 passengers in double cabins. They
offer excursions to almost all of the
sights described in Seine Aval. Fares
start at $1,359, airfare not included.

Or consider a more intimate and personalized cruise as guests of Bob & Bobbie Marsland aboard their 30-meter
Dutch barge La Chouette - the Snowy Owl. They found the 1934 barge in Friesland in the early 1990's and did
a very professional and luxurious conversion, including 3 spacious double staterooms, each with en-suite bath.
Possible cruises from Paris include "Mostly Monet" to Les Andelys with stops enroute at Chatou, Conflans,
Auvers-sur-Oise, Limay, Rolleboise and Rouen. Or cruise south on the Seine Amont and Yonne to Auxerre for a
"Taste of Burgundy"; stops on the Seine include Melun, Bois le Roi, Fontainebleau and St Mammès.
Full-Boat Charter for 4 guests is $15,000 and for 6 guests is $17,400.
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PARIS PORTS

In the listings below, Metro means the Paris city subway system; RER is similar to the Metro but extends above
ground into the suburbs; SNCF is the French national rail system, with frequent schedules to towns surrounding
Paris.

Arsenal: Bassin de l’Arsenal is an enclosed marina located at Place de la Bastille on the southeastern side of the
city, entered from the Seine just above Ile St. Louis via a lock. The Canal St. Martin begins its 2-km tunnel at the
northern end of the basin; the marina can also be accessed via that canal, as well as the Seine access. The basin is
one story (about 20 feet) below the surrounding city streets and buildings, but the “sunken feeling” is alleviated by
a very pleasant park at dock level along the entire east side. Most of the slips are rented on a year-around basis, but
there is almost always space for vessels of all sizes (up to 24 m.) There are Metro stations at either end of the basin
and it is only two blocks to Gare de Lyon, the RER and SNCF station with trains to all of central and southern
France. Full services including washer and shower facilities. An excellent website is at
www.portparisarsenal.asso.fr/
Also, it is interesting to see it live on a Webcam: www.parispourvous.net/index.php?wpe=a31
Association pour le Port de Plaisance de Paris Arsenal
11 boulevard de la Bastille 75012 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 41 39 32 - English is spoken
Email: portarsenal@dial.oleane.com.

Grenelle: Halte de Plaisance de Paris-Grenelle is at the other end of the center of Paris, adjacent to the Eiffel
Tower and the mini-version of the Statue of Liberty. It is a quai along the Seine, separated by a narrow island from
the main channel. However, some river traffic does pass directly alongside the moored boats. It is a newly-
designated port for pleasure vessels and is not marked as such on the navicarte #1 published in 2000. If you have
that chartbook, the port is at PK 175.6, at the marking “Bras de Grenelle” (Grenelle “arm” or branch of the Seine.)
Metro and RER stations are nearby on both banks of the Seine.
Halte de Plaisance de Paris-Grenelle
2, quai de Grenelle – 75016 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 41 39 32 (same as Arsenal tel #)

Concorde: Right in the center of Paris (and in the center of activity of seemingly hundreds of Bateaux Mouches
tourist boats) is the port at Champs Elysee. It may be difficult (not to say unwise) to find space available here.
Halte de Plaisance de Paris-Concorde (Port des Champs Elysées)
2, quai de Grenelle – 75016 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 70

Other choices within a short train/subway trip of the center of Paris:

Seine Aval, PK 14.7 (tram connection to RER & Metro access)
Marina Passerelle de l'Avre 1363, quai Marcel Dassault - 92210 St Cloud Tel: +33 (0)1 46 02 87 52

Seine Aval, PK 24.0 (convenient RER & Metro access)

Port Van Gogh 2, quai Aulanier - 92699 Asnieres Tel: +33 (0)1 40 86 29 13

Seine Aval, PK 29.0 (inconvenient RER & Metro access)

Port Sisley - Face au 45, quai Alfred Sisley - 92390 Villeneuve la Garenne Tel: +33 (0)1 40 86 29 13

Seine Amont, PK 146 (convenient RER access)

Port aux Cerises Draveil Tel: +33 (0)1 69 83 46 00
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USEFUL ADDRESSES
Tourist Offices
Honfleur Tourist Office
BP 20070 14602 HONFLEUR Cedex
Tel: +33 (0)2 31 89 23 30 Fax: +33 (0)2 31 89 31 82
contact@ ot-honfleur.fr
www.ot-honfleur.fr/office.php
Maison de Rouen et de la Normandie
25, Place de la Cathédrale BP 666
76008 ROUEN Cedex 1
Tel: +33 (0)2 32 08 32 40 Fax: +33 (0)2 32 08 32 44
tourisme@rouen,fr
www.mairie-rouen.fr/tourisme/
Paris Ile-de-France Tourist Office
99, rue de Rivoli 75001 PARIS
www.paris-ile-de-france.com/
Webcam: www.parispourvous.net/
Seine-et-Marne Tourist Office
11, rue Royale 77300 FONTAINEBLEAU
Tel: +33 (0)1 60 39 60 39 Fax: +33 (0)1 60 39 60 40
mdt@tourisme77.net
www.tourisme77.net/
Nogent-sur-Seine Tourist Office
27, grande rue Saint-Laurent – BP 40
10401 NOGENT-SUR-SEINE
Tel: +33 (0)3 25 39 42 00 Fax: +33 (0)3 25 39 98 74
www.ville-nogent-sur-seine.fr/
Hotels
Connelles: Le Moulin de Connelles
40, route de Amfreville, 27430 CONNELLES
Tel: +33 (0)2 32 59 53 33 Fax: +33(0)2 32 59 21 83
connelles@ chateauxhotels.com
www.chateauxhotels.com/connelles
Rolleboise: Château de la Corniche
5, route de la Corniche
78270 ROLLEBOISE
Tel: +33 (0)1 30 93 20 00 Fax: +33 (0)1 30 42 27 44
corniche@chateauxhotels.com
www.chateauxhotels.com/corniche
Bougival: Hotel Villa des Impressionnistes
15, Quai Rennequin-Sualem
78380 BOUGIVAL
Metro: Rueil 2000 (RER A)
Tel: +33 (0)1 55 33 16 55 Fax: +33 (0)1 55 33 16 56
contact@hotels-exclusive.com
www.hotels-exclusive.com/france.htm
Nogent-sur-Seine: Le Beau Rivage
20, rue Villers aux Choux
10400 NOGENT SUR SEINE
Tel: +33 (0)3 25 39 84 22 Fax: +33 (0)3 25 39 18 32
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Hotel Barges
La Chouette, Bob & Bobbie Marsland
BobandBobbie@compuserve.com
Quietude, Anita & Jean-Pierre Fargues
2, rue d’Ile Olive 10400 NOGENT-SUR-SEINE
Tel: +33 (0)3 25 39 80 14
quietudebarge@hotmail.com
www.perso.wanadoo.fr/quietude
River Cruise Ships
Aquaviva/Viking River Cruises
Port de Grenelle, 75015 PARIS
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 75 52 60 Fax: +33 (0)1 45 75 52 31
aquaviva@aqua-viva.fr
www.vikingrivercruises.com/
Rail Stations
Frequent trains from Paris/Gare St Lazare to
Conflans-Ste-Honorine, Mantes-la-Jolie, Vernon,
Rouen & Le Havre
and from Paris/Gare de Lyon to Melun,
Fontainebleau, St Mammès, Montereau and Nogent-
sur-Seine
Schedules available at www.sncf.fr/
Marinas (dockage, fuel, service, winter storage)
Port d’Ilon (Seine Aval, PK 120)
Chemin du Barrage, 78520 SANDRANCOURT
Tel: +33 (0)1 30 92 23 23 Fax: +33 (0)1 30 92 32 30
Port St Louis (Seine Aval, PK 81)
Ave. Vanderbilt, 78955 CARRIÈRE sous POISSY
Tel: +33 (0)1 30 74 38 46 Fax: +33 (0)1 30 79 27 34
nouvellemarina@wanadoo.fr
www.nouvellemarinaportsaintlouis.fr/
Port aux Cerises
91210 DRAVEIL
Tel: +33 (0)1 69 40 33 10 Fax: +33 (0)1 69 03 62 74
port@portauxcerises.asso.fr
www.portauxcerises.asso.fr/
Self-Skippered Boat Rental Bases
Seine Maritime, Seine Aval, Paris: No rental bases
Seine Amont: Seine et Loing Rivières (Locaboat)
1, rue du Port de Valvins
77215 AVON-FONTAINEBLEAU Cedex
Tel: +33 (0)1 60 71 10 68 Fax: +33 (0)1 64 22 51 34
www.locaboat.com
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Canal de la Somme at Amiens

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Visitors to France tend to overlook touring in the northern regions of Picardie and Nord-Pas-de-Calais; I
know that I did, even though I crossed it many times by car or on the EuroStar fast train to London. Each
time, I looked across wide-open plowed fields and thought that it was pretty but not very interesting. But I
was wrong, as I found on a recent trip down the Canal de la Somme to the English Channel.

This is a very scenic and enjoyable area; no vineyards, no spectacular rocky cliffs, but several chateaux,
major cathedrals and many charming towns and villages. And, except for several military cemeteries for the
soldiers of France, Germany, Great Britain, Australia and America, very little to show that it was the
location of the Battle of the Somme that left one million casualties in 1916.

One reason that this canal is not used by more cruisers is that it is essentially a dead-end at the
Baie de Somme on the English Channel, so it can’t be used to continue on through the waterway network.
But it does connect on its eastern end with two of the major north-south routes (see map, page 10.)

The river Somme rises in the middle of the flat agricultural plain of northern France, just northeast
of the town of St Quentin, and flows south for 20 kilometers as the Canal de St Quentin. At the village of
St Simon, the river turns west and the Canal de la Somme begins. (The Canal de St Quentin then follows
a man-made connection southeast to a junction with the Oise.) After a short, straight section centered on
the town of Ham, the route turns north and forms a 20-kilometer portion of the Canal du Nord. Then at
Peronne it again turns westward and leaves the busier canals behind.

For the first one-third of the distance toward the sea it is a “lateral” canal alongside the river, which is too
narrow and shallow for navigation; this portion was opened to traffic in 1772. At Bray,other streams add their
flow to the river and the remainder of the trip is in the natural bed of the river.

For most of the canal distance, after leaving the Canal du Nord and as far as Abbeville, the
waterway passes through Vallée de la Somme, a wide natural area of lakes & ponds formed from
centuries-old peat diggings.

This is one of the main recreational

fishing destinations in France; the
ponds are connected by narrow
earthen causeways and small-boat
channels and are occasionally
populated by fishing camps and
cottages.

The final fourteen kilometers is officially named the Canal maritime d’Abbeville à St-Valery, a straight,
relatively broad path across the flat fields that lead to the tidal bay. The seaport of St Valery is
not a port of entry, it’s too far south from the short channel crossings at Calais and Dunkerque; the port
offers a pleasure-boat harbor and is home to a few fishing vessels, but is not used by coastal freighters.
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Eastern Section, Canal de la Somme

Our trip in late Sepember began at the eastern end of the waterway, near the
village of St Simon. It is agricultural countryside here; except for a narrow
strip of woodlands along the canal the surroundings are wide-open fields, at
this time of year busy with harvesting equipment. The main crop appears to
be sugar beets (betteraves in French); the first sugar processing mill that we
will pass by is only eight kilometers into the trip, at Eppeville, and the last is
near the end of the trip, at Abbeville.

The first stop, only an hour later, is at the town of Ham, between the two
locks. From that mooring it is just a short walk to the centre ville for a
mid-morning coffee and a visit to the ruins of a massive fortress, a prison
for political prisoners since the 13th century but destroyed by the Germans
in 1917. A famous prisoner here was Napoleon III, who escaped under
disguise as a workman.

Approaching the first lock at Ham, headed downstream:

The lockkeeper has arrived in the small white
truck; he will follow on to the next lock after the
vessel has completed this cycle, as there is no
other traffic to pass through at this time.

The lockkeeper wants to know if they will

be continuing on through the next lock
immediately, or stopping at the mooring
quai between locks.

There was a crosswind and the deck hand was distracted by

the lockkeeper. The stern will be pulled back with a line on
one of the bollards spaced along the lock wall.

With the cycle completed, the vessel can exit

the downstream gates of the lock underneath
a busy city street.
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The first lakes can be seen near a campground and fishing base at Offoy. An interesting sight is the Art Deco
church in Brie, so very different from the stone steeples seen in hundreds of villages throughout France. |This is
still open country with few services for boaters; the best cruising doesn’t begin until the Canal du Nord section,
with its stone or concrete-paved banks, is behind us after Peronne.

Peronne is similar to Ham, and later Abbeville, a typical small industrial city of France without much charm.
The old city of Peronne was almost totally destroyed in World War I and little of the original fortifications remain.
The four round towers of the castle have been rebuilt and now serve as the entrance to a museum of the Grand
Guerre 1914-1918.

For us, it’ s the natural areas that are of interest, so we pass by Peronne quickly, then cross under the heavy truck
traffic on the A1 autoroute and the overpass for the sleek TGV fast trains which sound and look like aircraft at
ground level. We soon arrive in the true valley of the Somme, where the cruising is best done slowly so that we
can watch for wildlife and sights of fishermen in small rowboats and at aging, decrepit wooden piers.

The first village in this section is Frise, a good place for a

walk through town to see the brick houses and barns that
are common in Picardie. The lockhouse itself is a not very
pretty but solidly-built brick cube. One might say that it is
built like a brick lockhouse!

West of Frise we are truly in a different world, where the

loudest sounds in spring and summer are the frogs at night.
Although there are a few new houses along the way and
the nearby roadway is traveled by modern cars, the feeling
is what it must have been like fifty years ago.

No jet-skis or even outboard motorboats,

just squared-off wooden punts pulled up
on the banks. We can’t tell if they are
painted green or just look that way from
moss and the green weeds that surround
them.

For a good walk or bicycle excursion from the liftbridge at

Éclusier Vaux, go two kilometers up the road toward Maricourt to
get a wonderful view of the pond area from the scenic viewpoint
called Belvédère de Vaux. Then, two kilometers along another road
is the tiny village of Suzanne, with a an interesting chateau and a
direct-from-the-orchard apple sales barn.
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The old-time feeling is interrupted, but in a pleasant

way, by the new and very complete port at Cappy,
home of a rental boat base of the major French boat
rental company locaboat plaisance. Cappy is a little
larger than a village but has the same charm, along
with a good restaurant and full services.

In the summer a tourist steam train travels from Cappy

to Froissy alongside the canal, terminating at a museum
of train, military and industrial artifacts. Froissy is about
one kilometer by road from Bray-sur-Somme, which bills
itself as “ The Fishing Capital of Picardie” . Vessels that
draw less than one meter can cruise to Bray on the river
Somme, from a junction just west of the lock at Froissy.

The waterway continues on westward through the natural

surroundings, passing dozens of waterside cottages and
camping trailers before arriving at Corbie. The waterfront
here has been recently improved, with moorings for small
boats along the south side just before the lock, adjacent to
a well-kept silo station for the loading of local agricultural
products into barges.

(The moorings may all be taken by local vessels; if so there

is mooring space on ahead below the lock.)

On the north side are several very beautiful large homes

and a walking path to a village park and individual garden
plots.

From there, a walk into the centre ville past the elegant
city hall leads to restaurants and shopping, then on to a
view of the imposing facade of St Peter’s church, with
two tall towers framing three entry doorways and a large
rose-pattern window.
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City at the center - Amiens

A couple more hours of cruising through the wooded
ponds area, then the city of Amiens, a major but not
unwelcome change of scene and pace. There is much
to see and do here, while docked at a very pleasant
and convenient location at the port amont, the
upstream port on the eastern edge of the center of
the city

The Picardie Region is the home of six significant Gothic

cathedrals (Amiens, Noyon and Soissons can be visited from
canals; Beauvais, Senlis and Laon are not far away by road.)
Cathedrale Notre-Dame d’Amiens, the largest church in France
(469 ft long, 231 ft wide, the highest nave in Europe at 139 ft.)

The impressive size of the interior of the cathedral is matched

by the remarkable statuary to be seen. During the summer
months, there is a free Son et Lumiére show every evening in
the plaza at the western front of the cathedral. In daylight, the
three porches with hundreds of small stone figures are very
impressive, but when they are precision-lighted in multiple colors
the effect is dazzling.

Adjacent to the port, the private individual garden plots in Les Hortillonages are in an area of about 750 acres
right in the city, so close that we later walked directly to the cathedral and the center of the city in ten minutes.
The marshes of Amiens began to be divided and gardened in Roman times. Individual plots, called aires,
were separated by fosses (private waterways) and connected by a network of rieux (canals). The gardeners travel
on bateaux à cornet, a black wooden flat-bottomed boat about 20 feet long with a raised bow on which they can
walk to the land without damaging the fragile banks of the canals.

One of the best vegetable and flower market in France,

Marché St Leu (or Marché sur l’Eau) is presented by local
farmers on the quai (Thursday and Saturday mornings)
in the St Leu quarter, north of the cathedral. In previous
times the fresh flowers and produce were brought from the
gardens of Les Hortillonages by boats that tied-up at the
quai. Today it’s been modernized to use trucks and
tractor-drawn wagons, but the products are still grown
locally and most are biologique (organically-grown.)
On the third Sunday in June, the marketers
are in costume and sell from boats, as in the past.
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Directly across the river from the market quai is what I

call “ Bistro Row”, a solid strip of outdoor/indoor cafes
with a few pontoons available for visiting boaters. Here
you can take your choice of brasseries and wine bars.
Nearby is one of the “ fancy” restaurants, Les Marissons.

On both sides of the river are the narrow

streets and colorful buildings of the St Leu
quarter, great for walking and visting the
boutiques, art galleries and antique shops.

Open country is quickly found again west of Amiens.

At Picquigny there is a good port east of the lock,
south side, just a short walk into town for shopping
and local-style restaurants. The Petite Casino mini-market
is handy and served by a friendly clerk.

Mooring along the grassy bank is also possible almost

anywhere along this section of the canal.

From Piquigny, a three-mile walk or bicycle ride west on highway D3 through

St Pierre à Gouy leads to Abbaye du Gard and the very beautiful, mysterious
ruins of this chapel.
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Long is an especially pleasant village for an overnight

stay. There is a good mooring in front of the brasserie
Au fil de l’eau (at the waterway) between the bridge and
the lock. Unfortunately, the brasserie is closed and For
Sale; a good business opportunity for canal afficionados?
There is also a mooring upstream of the century-old
hydrolelectric station upriver from the village. A large
chateau (open for visits) sits on a bluff above the canal,
with flower gardens planted along the bank of the canal.

The ruins of a 14th century fortified castle are on an

island in the river at Pont Remy. Although it is only 6 km
from Long, it’ s another highly recommended stop, with
an excellent mooring quai just as you enter the village.

A good reason to stop overnight at Pont Remy is as an

early-morning jumping-off spot to travel right straight
through the charmless city of Abbeville and on to the seaport of Saint-Valéry-sur-Somme.

There are two places in Abbeville that look good: the canal itself, lined on both sides by tall, leafy trees and the
Gare, much more elegant and extravagant in its design than the usual drab rail station. The station is convenient to
the canal, just one block from a mooring near the lock. (Forget about the other mooring, described in the navicarte
guide as “ quai bon amarrage” . The amarrage itself is certainly good,with steel rings laid out along a concrete quai,
but the surroundings are very unpleasant, since the adjacent parking area is a favorite of diesel trucks and the
neighborhood is very shoddy.)

The Chateau de Bagatelle is located on the eastern edge

of the city, described in guidebooks as “ an elegant 17th
century folly with large botanical gardens” . It is open in
July and August, we were too late during our September
trip.

Abbeville was almost totally destroyed by bombing in

1940, so most of the buildings are modern construction.
There are probably some districts which retain the old
narrow streets and stone buildings,but the general
depressing surroundings in Abbeville aren’t much of
an incentive for exploration.
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Seacoast – Baie de Somme

St Valery, at the Channel end of the canal, is a
tourist-oriented coastal village, but the shops
and restaurants in the lower village are simple
and low-key and the medieval section on a hill
overlooking thebay and seacoast is good for a
walking tour.

Canal travelers can moor at this inland port, a

one-kilometer walk from the town.

The sea lock separates the tidal waters from the canal.
On the seaward side of the lock is the port de
plaisance, used by private sailboats and small fishing
motorboats. A dozen or so commercial fishing boats
use the small port at le Hourdel, seven kilometers
further on at the southwest corner of the estuary,
where it widens along the coastline.

The estuary of the river Somme extends over 70 square kilometers, the largest in northern France.
It’ s somewhat surprising to think of a seacoast in Picardy, but there is one, even if it is only the three-kilometer
width of the Baie de Somme plus another 20 km to the south and 12 km to the north.

The marshes of the bay are covered by the sea during spring tides and later used as pasture by “ Estran” sheep,
served in restaurants as agneau pré-salé (salt-marsh lamb.) To qualify for this designation, the lambs must
have spent 75 days grazing on the mollières; the meat is marketed from July to February.

For those who are traveling the waterways of France in their own vessel, the Canal de la Somme
offers a pleasant and relaxing side-trip of a week or more. Especially if some time at the beach seems like
a good idea; the port at St Valery is one of the few places on the inland waterway network of France
where it’s possible to moor on a canal and have easy access to a beach on the seacoast directly from the
mooring. If you don’t have a car onboard, the best way to the beach is a very pleasant bicycle ride through
the village and then across a few kilometers of grasslands on a paved bicycle path to le Hourdel and
Cayeux-sur-Mer.

A cruise on the Somme can also be esaily accomplished by rental boat. If you arrive in France at
Charles DeGaulle airport, take the TGV north to Haute-Picardie station in 28 minutes, then 15 kilometers
by taxi to the locaboat plaisance base at Cappy. A suggested one-week cruise would be to first travel east
from Cappy, stopping when you see the TGV and autoroute overpasses, that’s far enough. Then start
toward the coast, enjoying the sights described above. Be sure to plan your schedule so that you can go all
the way to the coast at St Valery, it’s worth the trip.
 Canal de la Somme
Canal de la Somme & connecting waterways Canal de St Quentin
Canal du Nord
Oise/Canal lateral a l'Oise
Liaisons a Grand Gabarit

London
ENGLAND
Dover
Oostende
Dunkerque
Calais BELGIUM
English Channel
(la Manche)
Lille

St Valery
Abbeville

Amiens Peronne
St Quentin
Le Havre St Simon

Compiegne

Seine
FRANCE

Paris

Copyright EuroCanals 2002

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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise Page 11
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest

The Canal de la Somme is a quiet, charming waterway from the

PARIS
busier waterway network of northern France to the Engish Channel.
It passes through an area of small towns and one historical and exciting
city, Amiens. The history of World War I is displayed in a museum at Peronne
and at many military cemeteries and monuments along the valley.

le Crotoy
Baie de Somme
Canal de la Somme
Length: 157 km Chart: navicarte #24
St Valery Number of Locks: 25 Map: Michelin #236
Minimum Depth: 1.80 m Season: Open All Year
Abbeville Minimum Height: 3.50 m Locks closed on Sundays Nov 1 - Mar 31
Pont Remy Lock Size: 38.5 X 5.1 m and holidays: Easter, May 1, July 14,
Long Speed Limit: 6 km/hr Nov 11 and Christmas Day.
L'Etoile

Canal du Nord
Abbaye du Gard
Frise
Picquigny Corbie Bray
Amiens Cappy Peronne
Froissy
Brie
Canal de
St Quentin

Elevation Ham
meters St Simon
60
50 Peronne
40 Cappy

30
St Valery
20 Amiens
Abbeville
10 St Simon
0
PK 156 142 94 51 31 0
Lock 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Useful Addresses Restaurants
Canal Authority: Amiens:
(This waterway is not managed by VNF, the French Les Marissons, 68 rue des Marissons
national waterway authority.) Tel: 03 22 92 96 66
Subdivision Navigation du canal de la Somme Assorted bistros along quai Bélu
2, rue Baillon Cappy:
80000 AMIENS L’Escale de Cappy
Tel: +33 (0)3 22 71 60 80 Adjacent to the port
St Valery:
Tourist Information: Le Nicol’s (seafood and local salt-marsh lamb)
Loisirs Accueil SOMME 15, rue de la Ferté
21, rue Ernest Cauvin Tel: 03 22 26 82 96
80000 AMIENS
Tel: +33 (0)3 22 71 22 74 Wine Bar
Fax: +33 (0)3 22 71 22 69 Amiens:
E-mail: tourisme.somme@wanadoo.fr la Queue de Vache (The cow’s tail)
51, quai Bélu
Office de Tourisme d’Amiens Métropole Tel: 03 22 91 91 15
6, bis rue Dusevel
80010 AMIENS Cedex1 Markets
Tel: +33 (0)3 22 71 60 50 Amiens:
Fax: +33 (0)3 22 71 60 51 Marche St-Leu, along the quai
E-mail: ot@amiens.com Thursdays & Saturdays, 8-11 AM
www.amiens.com/tourisme (On the 3rd Sunday in June, marketers are in costume and
sell from boats, as in the past.)
Baie de Somme
www.baie-de-somme.org/ Self-Skippered Boat Rentals
Cappy:
Rail Stations locaboat plaisance
Abbeville B.P.150
Amiens 89303 JOIGNY Cedex, France
TGV Haute-Picardie Tel: +33 (0)3 86 91 72 72
Fax: +33 (0)3 86 62 42 41
Hotels E-mail: info@locaboat.com
Amiens: www.locaboat.com
Hôtel le Carlton, 42, rue de Noyon Suggested Cruise: 1 week
80000 Amiens Cappy, Bray, Amiens, Abbeville, St Valery, return
Tel: +33 (0)3 22 97 72 22 214 km, 32 locks, 5 hr/day
Fax: +33 (0)3 22 97 72 00
Hotel Barges
Bed & Breakfast No hotel barges travel on the Somme.
This B&B is in a convenient and pleasant location on the
Canal de la Somme. 5 km west off the A1 autoroute Sights
interchange at Peronne: Amiens:
FOURNIER Therese et Jean-Paul Cathedrale Notre-Dame d’Amiens,
17, rue de l'Eglise, Ferme de l'eona the largest church in France (469 ft long, 139 ft high.)
80340 FRISE Light show every night 21 June-30 Sept.
Tel/Fax: +33 (0)3 22 84 02 90 Tel: 03 22 71 60 50
39 Euros/2 persons La Maison de Jules Verne, 2 rue Charles-Dubois
Tel: 03 22 45 37 84
Les Hortillonages, 300 hectares of individual private
gardenplots separated and accessible by small canals. Tour
boats leave from 54 Blvd Beauville. Tel: 03 22 80 92 12
South From The Netherlands
Routes from Maastricht to Paris

Canal du Nord entrance from the Oise river

at Pont l’Eveque
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CONTENTS:

Page 3. South from The Netherlands – The Routes

4. Map of the Direct Route

5. Elevations along the Direct Route

6-8. The Canals & Rivers – Direct Route

9. Paris Ports

10. Map of the West Route

11. The Canals & Rivers – West Route

12. Map of the East Route

13. The Canals & Rivers – East Route

14. Using the Maps, Chart & Logs

Appendix: Log – Maastricht to Paris (NL_south_log.pdf)

Log – Paris to Maastricht (NL_north_log.pdf)

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South from The Netherlands by Tom Sommers

There are many good reasons to purchase a vessel or have refitting work done in The Netherlands then
travel south to France, nearly everyone’s idea of a great cruising country. But there are several possible
routes; which combination of canals and rivers is the “best” way?

Obviously the “best” route will be different for the needs of each type of traveler. It depends on
the required travel time; fast or tourist? And on the river conditions; much of the distance is upstream if
you are traveling south and the river currents may be strong in the spring and early summer. (And as I
write this in August 2002, the rivers of eastern Germany are flooding and impassable by cruising vessels;
the same situation is possible on the NL-south routes.)

This route description starts at the border of Belgium and The Netherlands, just south of the Dutch
city of Maastricht at the junction of the Maas/Meuse river with the Albertkanaal/canal Albert (Dutch
usage / Belgian & French usage.) This point was selected because vessels which have departed from
western NL may arrive here via the Albertkanaal from Antwerp, or those departing central and northern
NL may arrive via the Maas river from Nijmegen or the Zuid-Willemsvaart from ‘S Hertogenbosch. (The
routes in NL will be covered in a separate report to be published later.)

The destination has been selected as Paris, specifically the Arsenal/Port de Paris marina located at
the junction of the Seine and the canal St. Martin, on the southeastern side of the city. This is a good
destination port and the route description passes by several other possible moorings in Paris.

This report will suggest a Direct Route, an alternate East route and an alternate West route with
two variations. EuroCanals members Jim & Judi G. recently completed the Direct Route in their 24-meter
tjalk and recommend it. They made good time, but also passed by some very enjoyable scenery and small
villages on the narrow, twisting River Sambre. The other routes are busy with commercial traffic, and
travel is generally faster. (I hesitate about suggesting the days of travel time, but you will see on the maps
that I have done so; the time required for the trip will vary with river conditions, the vessel and the
inclinations of the skipper and crew, so the days stated should be taken as relative to one another, not
absolute figures. They are based on eight hours travel per day.)

There are other variations of possible routes, to be covered in other reports. Paris can also be
approached on the river Marne, arriving from the southern edge of the city. If the destination is south of
Paris, say at St-Jean-de-Losne or the waterways of Southern France, then the East Route is recommended,
staying on canal de l’Est from the Ardennes all the way south to the river Saône.
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Direct Route: THE N
Maastricht, The Netherlands to Paris, France ETHER
LANDS
509 km, 86 locks, 13 days travel (approx) BELGI
UM
Julianakanaal
and Maas river
(from Nijmegen)

Sambre (Belgium) Albertkanaal

86.9 km (from Antwerp)
17 locks 40X5.05 m Maastricht NL
Draft 2.20 m BE
Height 4.50 m Liege
Sambre (France) Speed 7.5 km/h Namur
54.5 km
9 locks 38.5X5.0 m Canal Albert
Draft 1.80 m BE 17.2 km
Height 3.50 m 0 locks
FR
Speed 10 km/h Meuse Draft 3.40 m
67.7 km Height 7.2 m
4 locks 134X12.5 m Speed 15 km/h
Draft 2.80 m
Height 6.7 m
FRANCE
Speed 15 km/h
C. d. Sambre a l'Oise
65.8 km
38 locks 38.5X5.0 m
Draft 1.80 m
Height 3.50 m
Speed 6 km/h
Canal St Quentin CHARTS/GUIDEBOOKS:
7.3 km navicarte #23 Belgique
Oise 4 locks 38.5X5.60 m navicarte #9 La Meuse ...& La Sambre Belge
103.6 km Canal du Nord Draft 2.20 m navicarte #24 Picardie
7 locks 180X11.4 m Height 3.50 m navicarte #1 La Seine Aval
Draft 2.50 m Speed 10 km/h
Height 5.25 m OPENING HOURS:
Speed 15 km/h Compiegne Canal lateral a l'Oise These waterways are open year around.
33.8 km Hours vary, check with the guidebooks and
4 locks 38.5X5.60 m confirm at the locks as you travel.
Draft 2.20 m Holiday closings may include:
Height 3.50 m Jan 1, Easter, May 1, Ascension day, Whitsun,
Speed 6 & 10 km/h July 14, July 21, August 15, November 1 & 11,
December 25.
Saturday & Sunday hours are usually different
than on weekdays.
Seine
Conflans
72.2 km
2 locks 180X11.4 m
Draft 3.0 m
Height 6.0 m
Speed 12/18 km/h
Paris
EuroCanals, August 2002
 Paris to Maastricht

140
Canal de
La Sambre a
l'Oise
120 38 locks Sambre
66 km 18 locks
93 km
100
Canal de
St Quentin
Elevation, meters

4 locks
80
Canal lateral 7 km Meuse/C. Albert
a l'Oise 4 locks
4 locks 89 km
60 34 km

40
Seine Oise
2 locks 7 locks
72 km 104 km
20

0
103
120
137
154
171
188
205
222
239
256
273
290
307
324
341
358
375
392
409
426
443
460
477
494
511
1
18
35
52
69
86

Distance, km
Paris Conflans Ste Honorine Compiegne Namur Maastricht
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The Canals & Rivers – Direct Route

More than three-fourths (400 km) of the Direct Route is in rivers, rather than canals, and when traveling south
three-fourths of that river distance is upstream. On the positive side, this means that the surroundings will be more
natural as the rivers twist along their non-manmade path. On the negative side, it means that low-powered vessels
will need to check ahead on current conditions and allow extra time during high-flow seasons.

South from the Netherlands:

Maas/Julianakanaal
In The Netherlands the river Meuse is named the Maas; it flows generally due north from Maastricht, turns west at
Nijmegen and drains into the North Sea as part of the Rhine delta near Rotterdam. Vessels departing from
Amsterdam / Loosdrecht / Utrecht or from anywhere east and north of that area (including all of Friesland) can
connect with the Maas at Nijmegen.
While the northern section of the Maas is a natural river, the southern part is canalized as the Julianakanaal,
which passes directly through the city of Maastricht and connects just south of there with the Albertkanaal via the
short (1.9 km) Canal de Lanaye and the Lanaye locks.
Maastricht has been mentioned by several visitors as a very enjoyable city, sometimes compared favorably
to Paris. If you have traveled down from further north in NL, this city would be a good stop to provision and
regroup for a few days of steady cruising.

Canal Albert/Albertkanaal
The Albertkanaal (Belgium) can be utilized to travel from the western part of NL to the Meuse; it links the major
shipping ports of Antwerp and Liege for heavy commercial traffic.

Meuse
The river Meuse stretches 950 km from its source in eastern France. Although it is a relatively short portion of the
Direct Route, it is the major part of the Eastern Route and also for travelers bypassing Paris to head directly to the
center or south of France. In Belgium the river is bounded on both sides by steep cliffs; between Liege and Namur
the cliffs are set back enough to allow commerce and industry to be located on the banks, but south of Namur the
Meuse passes through tight loops in the Ardennes forests and the wooded cliffs often close in right to the riverbank.
The river passes through the center of Liege, Belgium, and its large commercial port area. The pleasure-
vessel port of Evêché is located on the southern side of the city. However, if you have departed from Maastricht
this would be an early stop and the city may prove disappointing. Here is Jim G’s comment: “ From Maastricht
(which we really enjoyed!), we crossed quickly into Belgium and got through Liege as fast as possible. We spent
the night in the totally charming small city of Huy. I remember good moorings (no electricity) and convenient
location with a very scenic vista of an old cathedral on the hill overlooking the town. Narrow streets and busy
commerce.”
At Huy the full-service port of Corphalie is located across the river and 2 km north of the city center, but
there is also a mooring quai near the main bridge into the city center.
The next recommended stop is at the larger city of Namur, mooring just after turning off the Meuse and
entering the Sambre (most traffic will continue south on the Meuse.) This is a major regional tourist center, with
lots of sightseeing and restaurants. And an overnight here will allow the next day’s travel to continue on past the
Charleroi area, which is suggested.

Sambre
The lower portion of the Sambre (Basse Sambre), from its junction with the Meuse at Namur up to Monceau, is
highly industrialized (especially in the Charleroi area) and not very pleasant countryside to pass through, although
navigation is relatively fast and easy. The upper Sambre (Haute Sambre) is in rural farming country with small
towns located a few kilometers apart. A visit to the Abbaye d’Aulne at a good mooring point will help in leaving
behind the industrial world and settling into the quiet country life to be found from here into northern France.
Suggested overnight stops are at Thuin, Lobbes (new moorings both sides of river), Labuissière, Merbes le Château
and Erquelinnes.
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As an aside, if you utilize the Navicarte chartbooks for this area, you will see that a number of mooring quais are
labeled “ reservé à la battelerie” (there is also a “musée de la batellerie” in a couple of towns, notably Janville and
Conflans-Sainte-Honorine.) Batellerie is the term for the commercial barge trade, so you should avoid those
moorings.
The Belgium-France border crosses between Erquelinnes BE and Jeumont FR. At the first lock on the
French side (Marpent), you will need to purchase the VNF vignette sticker to show that you have paid the fees for
use of the waterways, if your vessel doesn’t already have a current sticker. The cost varies with the time that you
plan to cruise and the surface area (length X beam) of your vessel. An annual sticker for 2002 in the largest size
category (more than 60 sq. meters) would cost 413.59 Euros (10% discount if purchased before March 20, 2002.)
For shorter periods, other options are 30 days cruising (not necessarily consecutive days) at 251.39E or 16 days
(consecutive days required) at 79.43E. For more details and future rates, go to www.vnf.fr/tourisme/t-choix2.htm
A suggested provisioning stop is at Maubeuge, a busy city that was totally destroyed by bombing in World
War II but has since been rebuilt into an industrial and commercial city with good shops. The river narrows and
becomes even more pleasant upstream from the charming town of Pont-sur-Sambre, an excellent overnight spot
with a quiet mooring at PK 26.5, before the lock, and another just after the lock. Other potential mooring points are
at Berlaimont and Landrecies.

Canal de la Sambre à l’Oise

This is the summit canal, connecting the basins of the Meuse and the Seine. The Sambre flows north into the North
Sea near Rotterdam, and on the southern side the Oise joins with the Seine to flow into the Atlantic at Le Havre.
South of the summit the canal runs in straight lines alongside of, and crosses over several times, the tight
little loops of the upper Oise. The closest concentration of locks along the entire route is at Etreux; partway through
the lock series there are shops available in the village (but mind the tranquille (closed) hours, generally in the
period from 12:00 to 16:00.) Two interesting points along here are the ponts-canaux at Vadencourt (PK32) and
Macquigny (PK37) which carry the canal over the river.
There are only two moorings marked on the chart through this entire canal, however there are numerous
spots at locks and along the banks where it is possible to tie-up with stakes. The locks close at 19:30, so there will
be little possibility of passing traffic during the night, although you could find a vessel underway for the 06:30
opening of the locks.

Canal de St Quentin
There is a very brief leg of this canal that, in name, replaces what would otherwise seem to be a continuation of the
canals described above and below. For a more complete description, refer to West Route.
The southern end of the St Quentin is at Chauny, the first full-service stop in quite a while. Along with
electricity, water, showers and shopping, there is a chandlery and fuel service on the east bank. The Canal de l’Oise
à l’Aisne branches to the east 3 km south of Chauny; it is not included in this report, but could be considered for
those wishing to visit the city of Reims or for an approach into Paris from the south side on the Marne river.

Canal latéral à l’ Oise

Above its junction with the river Aisne, the river Oise is much too narrow and twisting to allow navigation; the
lateral canal was built in a sequence of straight-line segments to bypass the river entirely. At Pont l’Eveque, the
mid-point along the canal, a junction with the Canal du Nord brings heavy commercial traffic into the route. Above
Pont l’Eveque the locks are Freycinet gauge (38.5m X 5.60m), while south of the junction they are 91m X 11.4 m.
Recommended stops are the port at Pont l’Eveque and at Bethancourt (PK29) for a great restaurant,
David’s Auberge. The final two kilometers of the canal, from Thourotte through Janville, are the location of several
shipyards, chandleries and boating services.
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Oise
The river Aisne joins with the Oise just north of the city of Compiegne, forming an important medium-width river
with smooth curves and a few islands. Travel along here is easy and fast, with several interesting towns to visit.
The first is at Compiegne, a significant historical city with several museums, churches and chateaux worth
visiting, along with a famous forest suitable for hikes or biking. Robert Louis Stevenson, in his first published book
An Inland Voyage (1878), was both relieved and excited to finally arrive in Compiegne after a canoe voyage with
Lord Simpson through Belgium and along the Sambre and Oise. A full-service port is located at the northern edge
of the city.
Mooring is possible at Verberie, a very pretty town of old houses. But ignore the chartbook’s suggestion of
a “tricky” mooring at Pont-Sainte-Maxence, it’s shallow and not recommended. There are several moorings
available at the across-river towns of Nogent-sur-Oise and Creil, although neither town has much in the way of
interesting sights. A better choice might be the hotel-restaurant Pavillon Saint-Hubert at Toutevoie (PK49.3); from
here it is possible to bike into Chantilly. Further south is Beaumont-sur-Oise, with an impressive church and ruins
of a feudal castle, along with adequate shopping and restaurants.
A better choice of restaurants is available at L’Isle Adam, with a good mooring pontoon and pleasant
surroundings. Highly-recommended spots are the San Bao traiteur asiatique (Asian Delicatessen) for an
inexpensive and delicious range of oriental dishes, located in the first block of the Grande rue, as well as La
Rotisserie for roasted meats, located on the first right turn off the Grande rue. While these are excellent fast-food or
take-out places, there are also several full-service restaurants in the same area. This town attracts day-tourists from
Paris to its swimming beach and rowboat-rental area and boasts some very fine homes for commuters.
Auvers-sur-Oise is the next interesting stop; it was the last home of Vincent van Gogh, who is buried here
along with his brother Theo. It’s possible to dine in the same restaurant that was his favorite, Auberge Ravoux.
Other artists preceded van Gogh here; the home and studio of Daubigny are open for visits.
A convenient but not very pleasant mooring is available at Pontoise, it’s located right under a rail bridge
with frequent traffic in and out of the rail hub nearby. No restaurants can be recommended. Just past the lock and
around the bend is Port Cergy, a shock because it is a newly-built city and enclosed harbor that could just as well be
in California, Texas or Florida. Slips are available for boats up to 22 meters only.
A much more pleasant (and somewhat secret) stop, although with no services or restaurants, is at Jouy-le-
Moutier (PK3.6, right bank.) This is a very quiet mooring suitable for all sizes of vessels. It is separated from the
charming village by a wooded park, an excellent place for short walks. And this location is a good choice before the
final day of travel into Paris, about a six to seven hour trip.
Just past Jouy is the junction of the Oise with the Seine at Conflans-Sante-Honorine. It is possible to find mooring
space here, but this is a very busy center for the commercial barge trade and is best simply viewed as you pass by, it
is not particularly welcoming to pleasure boaters. There is a small-boat harbor across the Seine at Ambiance
Yachting.

Seine
The portion of the Seine traveled on this route is one of boucles; there are two ten-kilometer loops to the south and
another to the north, tripling the as-the-crow-flies 24 km distance from Conflans to Paris into a 72 km cruise. Much
of the distance is surprisingly scenic, it is the countryside and riverbanks painted by the Impressionists and remains
today with tree-lined banks and wooded ridges, until the shipping ports and apartment buildings of the Paris
suburbs take over.
Pleasant moorings can be found both before and after the Bougival locks. The city-run halte at Rueil-
Malmaison provides a good mooring quai (no water or electric), with shops and restaurants a short walk away.
Otherwise, continue directly into Paris; refer to the descriptions of Paris ports on page 9.
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Paris Ports
This report suggests Port de Paris Arsenal as the southern destination, but there are others that can be considered,
including some outside of Paris but with access by rail. (In the listings below, Metro means the Paris city subway
system; RER is similar to the Metro but extends above ground into the suburbs; SNCF is the French national rail
system, with frequent schedules to towns surrounding Paris.)

Arsenal: Bassin de l’Arsenal is an enclosed marina located at Place de la Bastille on the southeastern side of the
city, entered from the Seine just above Ile St. Louis via a lock. The Canal St. Martin begins its 2-km tunnel at the
northern end of the basin; the marina can also be accessed via that canal, as well as the Seine access. The basin is
one story (about 20 feet) below the surrounding city streets and buildings, but the “sunken feeling” is alleviated by
a very pleasant park at dock level along the entire east side. Most of the slips are rented on a year-around basis, but
there is almost always space for vessels of all sizes. There are Metro stations at either end of the basin and it is only
two blocks to Gare de Lyon, the RER and SNCF station with trains to all of central and southern France. Full
services including washer and shower facilities. An excellent website is at www.portparisarsenal.asso.fr/
Association pour le Port de Plaisance de Paris Arsenal
11 boulevard de la Bastille - 75012 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 41 39 32
Email: portarsenal@dial.oleane.com. English is spoken.

Grenelle: Halte de Plaisance de Paris-Grenelle is at the other end of the center of Paris, adjacent to the Eiffel
Tower and the mini-version of the Statue of Liberty. It is a quai along the Seine, separated by a narrow island from
the main channel. However, some river traffic does pass directly alongside the moored boats. It is a newly-
designated port for pleasure vessels and is not marked as such on the navicarte #1 published in 2000. If you have
that chartbook, the port is at PK 175.6, at the marking “Bras de Grenelle” (Grenelle “arm” or branch of the Seine.)
Metro and RER stations are nearby on both banks of the Seine.
Halte de Plaisance de Paris-Grenelle
2, quai de Grenelle – 75016 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 41 39 32 (same as Arsenal tel #)
Concorde: Right in the center of Paris (and in the center of activity of seemingly hundreds of Bateaux Mouches
tourist boats) is the port at Champs Elysee. It may be difficult (not to say unwise) to find space available here.
Halte de Plaisance de Paris-Concorde
2, quai de Grenelle – 75016 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 90 70

Here are some others choices within a short train/subway trip of the center of Paris:

Seine Downstream, PK 14.7 (tram connection to RER & Metro access)

Marina Passerelle de l'Avre 1363, quai Marcel Dassault - 92210 St Cloud Tel: +33 (0)1 46 02 87 52

Seine Downstream, PK 24.0 (inconvenient RER & Metro access)

Port Van Gogh 2, quai Aulanier - 92699 Asnieres Tel: +33 (0)1 40 86 29 13

Seine Downstream, PK 29.0 (inconvenient RER & Metro access)

Port Sisley - Face au 45, quai Alfred Sisley - 92390 Villeneuve la Garenne Tel: +33 (0)1 40 86 29 13
(same number as the previous Port)

Oise River, PK 9 (RER access)

Port Cergy 95000 Cergy-Pontoise Tel: +33(0)1 34 24 11 77
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West Route: Maastricht, The Netherlands to Paris, France ETHER
LANDS
Via Canal du Nord: 544km, 57 locks, 11 days travel (approx) BELGI
Via Canal de St Quentin: 557km, 80 locks, 13 days travel (approx) UM
Julianakanaal
and Maas river
Sambre (Belgium) (from Nijmegen)
C. de Charleroi- 48.3 km
Bruxelles 26 km 8 locks 90X12 m
3 locks 85X11.5 m Draft 2.60 m
Draft 2.50 m Height 5.70 m Albertkanaal
Height 4.50 m Speed 9 km/h (from Antwerp)
Speed 8 km/h Maastricht NL
Liege BE
Escaut/C Sensee
49.8 km Namur
6 locks 143X11.4 m
Draft 2.50 BE
Canal Albert
Height 4.50 m FR 17.2 km
Speed 12 km/h 0 locks
Canal du Centre Draft 3.40 m
Meuse
to Conde 52 km Height 7.2 m
67.7 km
5 locks 96X12m Speed 15 km/h
4 locks 134X12.5 m
Draft 2.50 m
Draft 2.80 m
Height 4.95 m
Height 6.7 m
Speed 8 km/h
Canal du Nord Speed 15 km/h
95 km FRANCE
19 locks 91X5.7 m
Draft 2.40 m Canal St Quentin
Height 3.70 m 105 km
Speed 10 km/h 40 locks 38.5X5.60 m
Draft 2.20 m
CHARTS/GUIDEBOOKS:
Height 3.50 m
navicarte #23 Belgique
Speed 8/10 km/h
Oise navicarte #9 La Meuse ...& La Sambre Belge
103.6 km navicarte #14 Nord-Pas-de-Calais
7 locks 180X11.4 m navicarte #24 Picardie
Draft 2.50 m navicarte #1 La Seine Aval
Height 5.25 m
Speed 15 km/h Compiegne Canal lateral a l'Oise OPENING HOURS:
33.8 km These waterways are open year around.
4 locks 38.5X5.60 m Hours vary, check with the guidebooks and
Draft 2.20 m confirm at the locks as you travel.
Height 3.50 m Holiday closings may include:
Speed 6 & 10 km/h Jan 1, Easter, May 1, Ascension day, Whitsun,
July 14, July 21, August 15, November 1 & 11,
December 25.
Saturday & Sunday hours are usually different
Seine than on weekdays.
Conflans
72.2 km
2 locks 180X11.4 m
Draft 3.0 m
Height 6.0 m
Speed 12/18 km/h
Paris
EuroCanals, August 2002
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The Canals & Rivers – West Route (refer to map page 10)
The alternate route for the fastest travel begins at Charleroi, Belgium, turning to the north for about 13 km, then
west and finally south along the following series of canals:
Canal de Charleroi à Bruxelles (BE)
Canal du Centre (BE)
Canal Nimy-Blaton-Péronnes (BE)
Canal de Pommerouel à Condé (BE)
Escaut and Canal de la Sensée (liaison au grand gabarit) (FR)
These canals eliminate 29 locks and about two days travel from the Direct Route. They are a major
highway for commercial barges. Note that at 85 to 143 meters long and 11.4 meters wide the locks are at least twice
as long, sometimes four times as long, and twice as wide as the Freycinet-gauge locks on canals favored by
pleasure cruisers. A prominent feature is the boat lift at Strepy-Thieu, due to be opened now as I write this report in
late August 2002. This magnificent structure (see photo) has a vertical lift of 73 meters and can handle 1350-ton
barges. It replaces four interesting but outdated lifts and one lock, greatly speeding travel.
The liaisons au grand gabarit are a series of heavy-barge canals in the French region Nord-Pas-de-Calais
that link the industrial cities of southern Belgium and northern France to the world’s seas at Dunkerque. The
Belgian canals listed above connect to this route at Condé at a junction with the Escaut.

The Canal du Nord and the Canal de St Quentin are parallel canals; choose between them:

Canal du Nord
th
This is a 20 -century canal (most of the more pleasurable canals date from the Napoleonic era), begun before
World War I but then completely destroyed during the war, and finally opened for traffic at the end of 1965. It does
not use the very large locks of the liaison au grand gabarit; although the locks are 91 meters long they retain the
relatively narrow width of the Freycinet locks at 5.70 meters. A unique feature is that there are two summit levels,
each with a tunnel (4354 m & 1058 m.) The canal is lined by concrete banks and there are few places to moor. If
you are traveling south, plan to complete this canal in two days and stop at Peronne overnight.

Canal de St Quentin
The St Quentin is a favorite of quite a few experienced barge travelers, mainly because it is not the Canal du Nord
but also because of its own delightful scenery and its paired automatic locks for less waiting. Following along our
route from north to south, the St Quentin is the canalized river Escaut, passing through the city of Cambrai (a
favorite wintering port for liveaboard barges, especially those of UK owners because of the proximity to channel
ferry crossings.) The summit canal (with two tunnels, commonly called the Riqueval Tunnel) connecting the source
of the Escaut with the source of the Somme was inaugurated by Napoleon in 1810. Up to 30 vessels in convoy are
towed by a tug through the Grand Souterrain (5670 meters; 3.5 miles) at departure times of 1200 and 1930
southbound. The southern tunnel (Lesdins, 1098 meters long) is also traveled in convoy but without the tug,
departing northbound at 0630 and 1500. From the tunnels, the canal follows the Somme through the interesting city
of St Quentin and south for another 18 km before striking cross-country to link with the Canal de la Sambre à
l’Oise and the canal latéral à l’Oise.
Suggested overnight stops are at Cambrai and the city of St Quentin; a possible stop at the north end of the tunnels
is at le Champ Luseaux.

(The West Route now rejoins the Direct Route description at the Canal latèral a l’Oise.)
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ETHER
East Route: LANDS
BELGI
Maastricht, The Netherlands to Paris, France UM
599 km, 100 locks, 15 days travel (approx) Julianakanaal
and Maas river
(from Nijmegen)

CHARTS/GUIDEBOOKS:
navicarte #23 Belgique Albertkanaal
navicarte #9 La Meuse ...& La Sambre Belge Meuse (from Antwerp)
navicarte #8 Champagne-Ardenne 114.0 km Maastricht NL
navicarte #24 Picardie 13 locks 100X12 m BE
Liege
navicarte #1 La Seine Aval Draft 2.40 m
Height 5.2 m Namur
OPENING HOURS: Speed 15 km/h
These waterways are open year around. Canal Albert
Hours vary, check with the guidebooks and 17.2 km
confirm at the locks as you travel. 0 locks
Holiday closings may include: Draft 3.40 m
Jan 1, Easter, May 1, Ascension day, Whitsun, BE Height 7.2 m
July 14, July 21, August 15, November 1 & 11, FR Speed 15 km/h
December 25.
Saturday & Sunday hours are usually different
than on weekdays.
Canal de l'Est (Nord)
96.5 km
19 locks 38.5X5.5 m FRANCE
Draft 1.80 m
Aisne
Height 3.50 m
57 km
Speed 6/10 km/h
7 locks 45.3X7.8 m
Draft 2.0 m
Height 3.70 m
Oise Speed 15 km/h
103.6 km Canal des Ardennes
7 locks 180X11.4 m 87.7 km
Draft 2.50 m 44 locks 38.5X5.0 m
Height 5.25 m Draft 1.80 m
Speed 15 km/h Compiegne Height 3.50 m
Speed 10 km/h
C. lateral a l'Aisne
51 km
8 locks 38.5X5.2 m
Draft 2.0 m
Height 3.70 m
Speed 8 km/h

Seine
Conflans
72.2 km
2 locks 180X11.4 m
Draft 3.0 m
Height 6.0 m
Speed 12/18 km/h
Paris
EuroCanals, August 2002
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The Canals & Rivers – East Route (refer to map page 12)
At Namur on the Meuse river, there is a choice to be made: continue on the most direct route by following the
Sambre river upstream, or turn south on the Meuse through the beautiful Ardenne region into France, where the
waterway is now named Canal de l’Est (branche nord).

Haute Meuse
Between Namur and the French border 46 km south, the river passes through a narrow gorge lined by wooded cliffs
with frequent large outbreaks of rocks (climbers are often seen here.) Navigation is not difficult but does require
careful attention to stay in the channel, avoiding submerged sills and selecting the correct passage at the occasional
islands.
Moorings with services are available at the major tourist center of Dinant; quieter ports can be found
further on at Anseremme and Waulsort.

Canal de l’Est (branche nord)

Although there is little noticeable change in the river at the border, France has named the waterway a canal rather
than continue to use the name Meuse. For another 78 km (until the industrial cities of Charleville-Mezieres) the
canalized river continues its twisting path through the Ardenne forest. This is some of the finest inland waterway
travel in Europe.
There are many small towns that rate a visit, notably at Fumay and Revin. This entire section is a good
place to take your time and enjoy the wonderful surroundings.

Canal des Ardennes

Before I had ever traveled in this region I had always read and seen movies about the Forest of the Ardenne. So I
was surprised to find that this canal isn’t in the forest at all, most of it crosses wide open fields, with just a fringe of
brush and trees along the banks of the waterway. Then I realized that my geography was faulty, the forest is further
north in France and in Belgium and is traversed by the Meuse. (The canal is located in the French département of
Ardennes.)
The canal connects the Meuse and the Aisne river valleys. It has a high concentration of locks (44 locks in
88 km.) Traveling southbound, seven locks lead up through very pretty countryside to the summit village of Le
Chesne, a suitable overnight stop. A chain of 27 locks then drop the waterway down to the Aisne, where it becomes
a lateral canal alongside the non-navigable upper portion of the river.
A welcome break after a busy day of locking can be found with a stop at Attigny; full services are available
in the town of Rethel.

Canal lateral à l” Aisne

The Canal des Ardennes rather suddenly and inexplicably becomes the Canal lateral à l’Aisne at Vieux-lès-Asfeld.
It continues to follow alongside the river Aisne with no changes in its size or type of waterway for another 18 km,
then at a junction with the Canal de l’Aisne à la Marne the draft increases from 1.8 m to 2.0 m, moving it into the
next higher category of waterways (that point seems to me to be the logical place for the name change, but they
didn’t ask me, did they?)
Suggested stopping points on this canal are at the Berry-au-Bac junction and at Bourg-et-Comin, the
junction point with the Canal de l’Oise à l’Aisne.

Aisne
At Celles-sur-Aisne the lateral canal joins the river Aisne and from there west to the Oise travel is relatively
leisurely, with less frequent locks. Soissons is the major city in this area and thus offers full services, but a more
pleasant overnight might be found at Vic-sur-Aisne or Attichy.

(The East Route now rejoins the Direct Route description at Compiegne on the river Oise.)
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Using the Maps & Logs

The maps and logs included with this report are intended for planning purposes as well as for recording the progress
of a trip along the route. You will need to purchase detailed navigational charts and guide books. Adequate guides
for these routes are published by Navicarte; the titles and guide #s for each route are shown on the maps. They can
be purchased along the way or in advance by mail-order (try www.guide-fluvial.com/ or www.grafocarte.fr/; if you
have any difficulty, contact tomsom@eurocanals.org ) (Although guides for other areas of France are published by
two other companies, they do not cover these routes completely.)

How to use the Maps:

There are three maps included with this report which show the connecting canals and rivers of each route. The
waterways are each shown in a different color; general information is shown in a box for that waterway.

Distance: The kilometer length of the waterway along this route (the total length of the waterway may be much
greater.)

Locks: The number of locks along this route and the limiting dimensions of the smallest lock.

Draft: The minimum depth of water along the waterway (in the channel, not across the entire width.)

Height: The lowest overhead clearance under bridges along the waterway.

Speed: The official speed limit for the waterway; when two speeds are shown, watch for details on the chart.

How to use the Elevation Chart:

The Elevation Chart has been plotted from the rise/fall at each lock along the Direct Route. Charts for the East and
West routes have not yet been developed, but will be added soon.

This chart is useful for predicting daily progress; it shows where the concentration of locks are located. On the
Direct Route, the most locks per kilometer of distance are obviously on the Canal de la Sambre à l’Oise. Each
horizontal bar on the chart represents a bief , the stretch of level water between locks. On both ends of this route the
biefs are long, so good time can be made. In the summit section the biefs are very short, so days of almost constant
locking can be expected and should be allowed for in your planning.

The actual length of each bief can be calculated from the Km column on the Log. Subtract the cumulative distance
at one lock from the distance at the next. Knowing your speed, you can then estimate arrival time at the next lock
(i.e., can we make the lock before closing hour?)

By keeping accurate records in the log, each day’s travel will help to build information that will be useful in
predicting travel time on further sections of the trip. You will get to know how many locks-per-day and kilometers-
per-day are comfortable for your vessel and crew. For pre-planning purposes, travel time can be estimated at one-
quarter hour per lock and the speed of your vessel or the speed limit of the waterway, whichever is lower.

Here are two recent examples of the best travel time that can be expected. Both of these crews were traveling to
gain the most distance in a day, not sightseeing or visiting the villages. And both were on open, relatively fast
waterways:

Barge #1, a 24-meter Luxemotor southbound on the Canal du Nord: two days travel to complete the entire canal,
averaging 10 locks, 45 kilometers and one tunnel (reduced speed) per day.
Barge #2, a 24-meter tjalk southbound (downstream in spring conditions) on the Oise: one day to travel 5 locks and
100 kilometers, almost the entire length of the river.
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In the steep sections, such as on the Canal de la Sambre à l’Oise, most travelers will not be willing to commit full
time to locking; it is both physically tiring and monotonous. So although it might be possible to complete the 38
locks and 66 kilometers in two days, this section should be allocated several days with stops at interesting villages.
For Barge #2 above, a typical day in this sections was La Buissière, Belgium to Pont-sur-Sambre, France: 35
kilometers and 4 locks, with a stop at Maubeuge for provisioning and sightseeing.

How to use the Logs:

The first log is set up to follow the Direct Route from Maastricht, NL southbound to Paris. The filename is
NL_south_log.pdf. The northbound route from Paris to Maastricht is available as filename NL_north_log.pdf.
Logs for the East and West routes have not yet been developed, but will be added soon.

PK: Kilometer Point, as taken from the chart for each canal. The sequence of numbering varies with each canal;
sometimes these markers run south-to-north, sometimes north-to-south. They are occasionally seen as actual
signposts along the waterway, or posted on the sign identifying a lock. (Navicarte #9, page 89, shows two PK70 on
the Sambre; I haven’t determined if this is a chart error or an error of the canal authority, but I have adjusted for the
error in the Distance calculation.)

Km: Total Cumulative Distance along the route, from south-to-north continuous through the various waterways.
The zero km point is at Port de Paris Arsenal, end point is 518 km at Maastricht.

Stop: Type of feature point on the waterway. L= lock S= shipyard H=halte, a mooring with no services P= port
with electric & water

Lock#: Identifying number for each lock, used on some canals. Canals without lock numbers use the name "Ecluse"
(French for lock.)

Height: The rise or fall (in meters) at the lock. This will help in anticipating the need for lines and also for the time
in the lock.

Name: The name of the lock, town or waterway.

Depart/Date & Arrive/Date: Here you can log the time & date of departing or arriving at this point.

Comments: Add your own comments regarding this point; restaurants, shopping, mooring availability and details,
etc.
 SOUTH FROM MAASTRICHT
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
518.0 Maastricht
513.0 Canal de Lanaye
17.2 512.2 L Ecluse 13.96 Lanaye
17.0 512.0 Canal Albert Junction
2.2 497.2 L Ecluse 5.50 Monsin
114.0 495.0 River Meuse junction
109.8 490.8 P Liege
97.0 478.0 L Ecluse 4.45 Ivoz-Ramet
82.6 463.6 L Ecluse 4.80 Ampsin Neuville
80.0 461.0 P Huy port de plaisance de Corphalie
77.8 458.8 H Wanze
65.0 446.0 H Andenne
63.1 444.1 L Ecluse 5.25 Andenne-Seilles
49.8 430.8 S Beez Meuse et Sambre Shipyard
48.3 429.3 L Ecluse 3.90 grands malades
46.3 427.3 H Namur Preferred mooring is on Sambre, not Meuse
48.0 425.6 River Sambre junction

HOW TO USE THIS LOG:

This log is set up to follow the route from Maastricht,The Netherlands southbound to Paris. The filename is NL_south_log.pdf.
The northbound route from Paris to Maastricht is available as filename NL_north_log.pdf.
PK = Kilometer Post, as taken from the chart for each canal. Sometimes these markers run south-to-north, sometimes north-to-south.
Km = Distance along the route, from south-to-north continuous through the various waterways. The zero km point is at Port de Paris Arsenal,
end point is 518 km at Maastricht.
Stop = Type of feature point on the waterway. L= lock S= shipyard H=halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric & water
Lock# = Identifying number for each lock, used on some canals. Canals without lock numbers use the name "Ecluse" (French for lock.)
Height = The rise or fall (in meters) at the lock.
Name =The name of the lock, town or waterway.
Depart/Date & Arrive/Date = Here you can log the time & date of departing or arriving at this point.
Comments = Add your comments regarding this point; restaurants, shopping, mooring availablity and details, etc.

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H= halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric water
River Sambre
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
88.5 425.6 Meuse Junction
88.3 423.6 H Namur Preferred mooring is on Sambre, not Meuse
85.5 422.6 L Ecluse 1.70 Namur (Salzinnes)
77.7 414.8 L Ecluse 3.90 Floriffoux
70.1 407.2 L Ecluse 4.60 Mornimont
61.8 398.9 L Ecluse 2.80 Auvelais
50.8 387.9 L Ecluse 3.60 Roselies
49.3 386.4 S Pont de Loup Vankerkoven's Shipyard
44.2 381.3 L Ecluse 2.20 Montignies sur Sambre
39.3 376.4 L Ecluse 3.00 Marcinelle
38.6 375.7 C. de Charleroi à Bruxelles junction
34.3 371.4 H Jambes de Bois
34.2 371.3 L Ecluse 4.89 Monceau sur Sambre
30.5 367.6 L Ecluse 2.11 Landelies
30.2 367.3 H Landelies
28.1 365.2 H Abbaye d'Aulne
28.0 365.1 L Ecluse 1.94 Abbaye d'Aulne
27.5 364.6 H Abbaye d'Aulne
26.0 363.1 L Ecluse 2.73 Trou d'Aulne
22.4 359.5 L Ecluse 2.15 Garnd Courant
20.1 357.2 L Ecluse 1.32 Thuin
19.0 356.1 H Thuin
17.4 354.5 L Ecluse 1.50 Lobbes
12.0 349.1 L Ecluse 2.19 Fontaine-Valmont
11.0 348.1 H Fontaine-Valmont
7.7 344.8 L Ecluse 2.23 La Buisiere
2.9 340.0 L Ecluse 1.23 Solre sur Sambre
1.0 338.1 H Erquelinnes
54.5 337.1 France/Belgium border
53.0 335.6 H Erquelinnes/Jeumont
51.8 334.4 L Ecluse 1.10 de Marpent
49.9 332.5 H Marpent
41.6 324.2 H Maubeuge
41.4 324.0 L Ecluse 1.26 de Maubeuge
35.4 318.0 L Ecluse 1.43 Hautmont
32.3 314.9 H Boussieres-sur-Sambre
26.2 308.8 L Ecluse 1.12 Quartes
21.7 304.3 L Ecluse 1.32 Pont-sur-Sambre

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H= halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric water
 21.5 304.1 P Pont-sur-Sambre
17.8 300.4 L Ecluse 1.40 Berlaimont
11.1 293.7 L Ecluse 1.65 Sassegnies
7.7 290.4 L Ecluse 0.92 Hachette
3.0 285.7 L 1 1.14 les Etoquies
0.0 282.7 Canal de la Sambre a l'Oise jct
Canal de la Sambre a l'Oise
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
0.0 282.7 Sambre junction
0.3 282.4 P, S Landrecies
0.3 282.4 L 3 1.69 Landrecies
5.8 282.1 L 2 2.00 Ors
12.0 275.9 L 1 2.00 Bois l'Abbaye
13.0 274.9 Summit
18.9 269.0 L 1 2.76 Gard
19.3 268.6 L 2 2.85 Etreux
20.1 267.8 L 3 2.84 Etreux
20.8 267.1 L 4 2.93 Etreux
21.1 266.8 L 5 2.77 Etreux
21.5 266.4 L 6 2.81 Etreux
22.1 265.8 L 7 2.11 Etreux
22.4 265.5 L 8 2.43 Etreux
23.0 264.9 L 9 1.98 Venerolles
23.8 264.1 L 10 2.75 Venerolles
24.5 263.4 L 11 3.22 Venerolles
25.1 262.8 L 12 1.94 Hannapes
26.5 261.4 L 13 Hannapes
27.0 260.9 L 14 2.47 Tupigny
27.2 260.7 L 15 2.40 Tupigny
28.4 259.5 L 16 2.81 Tupigny
29.2 258.7 L 17 Grand Verly
30.0 257.9 L 18 2.73 Grand Verly
31.6 256.3 L 19 3.13 Vadencourt
33.2 254.7 L 20 1.92 Longchamps
35.2 252.7 L 21 2.50 Noyales
37.5 250.4 L 22 2.92 Macquigny
38.6 249.3 L 23 1.97 Hauteville
40.9 247.0 L 24 3.53 Bernot

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H= halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric water
 43.6 244.3 L 25 2.54 Origny Ste Benoite
45.9 242.0 L 26 2.67 Thenelles
48.1 239.8 L 27 2.45 Ribemont
49.7 238.2 L 28 1.99 Sissy
51.6 236.3 L 29 1.70 Chatillon
52.9 235.0 L 30 1.99 Mezieres-sur-Oise
54.5 233.4 L 31 2.00 Berthenicourt
56.8 231.1 L 32 2.17 Hamegicourt
58.4 229.5 L 33 1.96 Brissy
62.6 225.3 L 34 2.65 Travecy-Montigny
65.1 222.8 L 35 3.34 Travecy
85.0 216.9 Canal de St. Quentin junction
Canal de St. Quentin
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
85.0 216.9 Canal de la Sambre a l'Oise jct
85.8 216.1 L 32 1.43 Tergnier
88.4 213.5 L 33 2.21 Viry
90.8 211.1 L 34 2.04 Senicourt
92.3 209.6 L 35 2.20 Chauny
0.0 209.6 Canal lateral a l'Oise junction
Canal lateral a l'Oise
0.5 209.1 P Chauny Speed limit 6 km/h Chauny to Canal du Nord junction
8.9 200.7 L 1 2.49 St Hubert
18.1 191.5 L 2 1.52 Sempigny
18.2 191.4 P Pont l'Eveque
18.5 191.1 Canal du Nord junction Speed limit 6 km/h Chauny to Canal du Nord junction
28.3 181.3 L 3 2.98 Bellerive
31.5 178.1 H Thourotte
33.0 175.0 H Longuiel-Annel
33.8 175.8 L 4 3.33 Janville
33.8 175.8 River Oise junction
River Oise
99.5 171.7 River Aisne junction
97.8 170.0 P Compiegne
95.8 168.0 L 1 1.40 Venette
91.5 163.7 P Marine Oise Plaisance
82.8 155.0 L 2 Verberie
71.8 144.0 L 3 1.40 Sarron
62.0 134.2 P Verneuil-en-Halatte
58.7 130.9 P Creil
STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H= halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric water
 56.0 128.2 L 4 1.45 Creil
41.2 113.4 L 5 1.50 Boran
34.0 106.2 H Persan/Beaumont-sur-Oise
28.2 100.4 L 6 1.50 L'Isle Adam
27.0 99.2 H L'Isle Adam
21.7 93.9 H Auvers-sur-Oise
14.7 86.9 H Pontoise
13.3 85.5 L 7 1.50 Pontoise
11.5 83.7 H Eragny
9.0 81.2 P Port Cergy
4.0 76.2 H Jouy-le-Moutier
1.0 73.2 P Conflans-Ste-Honorine
0.0 72.2 River Seine junction
River Seine
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
71.2 72.2 River Oise junction
70.1 71.1 H Conflans-Ste-Honorine
69.0 70.0 P Ambiance Yachting
62.4 63.4 H La Frette
52.0 53.0 H Le Pecq (St Germain en Laye)
50.9 51.9 bras de Marly junction downstream Marly branch splits from main channel
48.7 49.7 L Ecluse 3.25 Bougival Commercial barges generally use the main channel, Chatou lock.
45.3 46.3 H Rueil-Malmaison & Chatou
44.6 45.6 L Ecluse 3.25 Chatou Cruising boats generally use the Marly branch, Bougival lock.
40.2 41.2 bras de Marly junction upstream
28.8 29.8 Canal St Denis junction
24.0 25.0 P Port Van Gogh
16.8 17.8 L Ecluse 3.17 Suresnes
6.5 7.5 P Port de Paris Grenelle
3.2 4.2 P Port de Paris Concorde
0.0 1.0 Ile St Louis, Paris
0.0 P Port de Paris Arsenal
0.0 Canal St Martin junction

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H= halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric water
 NORTH FROM PARIS
River Seine
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
0.0 Canal St Martin junction
0.0 P Port de Paris Arsenal
0.0 1.0 Ile St Louis, Paris
3.2 4.2 P Port de Paris Concorde
6.5 7.5 P Port de Paris Grenelle
16.8 17.8 L Ecluse 3.17 Suresnes
24.0 25.0 P Port Van Gogh
28.8 29.8 Canal St Denis junction
40.2 41.2 bras de Marly junction upstream Marly branch splits from main channel
44.6 45.6 L Ecluse 3.25 Chatou Commercial barges generally use the main channel, Chatou lock.
45.3 46.3 H Rueil-Malmaison & Chatou
48.7 49.7 L Ecluse 3.25 Bougival Cruising boats generally use the Marly branch, Bougival lock.
50.9 51.9 bras de Marly junction downstream
52.0 53.0 H Le Pecq (St Germain en Laye)
62.4 63.4 H La Frette
69.0 70.0 P Ambiance Yachting
70.1 71.1 H Conflans-Ste-Honorine
71.2 72.2 River Oise junction

HOW TO USE THIS LOG:

This log is set up to follow the route from Paris northbound to Maastricht, The Netherlands. The filename is NL_north_log.pdf.
The southbound route from Maastricht to Paris is available as filename NL_south_log.pdf.
PK = Kilometer Post, as taken from the chart for each canal. Sometimes these markers run south-to-north, sometimes north-to-south.
Km = Distance along the route, from south-to-north continuous through the various waterways. The zero km point is at Port de Paris Arsenal,
end point is 518 km at Maastricht.
Stop = Type of feature point on the waterway. L= lock S= shipyard H=halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric & water
Lock# = Identifying number for each lock, used on some canals. Canals without lock numbers use the name "Ecluse" (French for lock.)
Height = The rise or fall (in meters) at the lock.
Name =The name of the lock, town or waterway.
Depart/Date & Arrive/Date = Here you can log the time & date of departing or arriving at this point.
Comments = Add your comments regarding this point; restaurants, shopping, mooring availablity and details, etc.

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H = halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric and water
River Oise
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
0.0 72.2 River Seine junction
1.0 73.2 P Conflans-Ste-Honorine
4.0 76.2 H Jouy-le-Moutier
9.0 81.2 P Port Cergy
11.5 83.7 H Eragny
13.3 85.5 L 7 1.50 Pontoise
14.7 86.9 H Pontoise
21.7 93.9 H Auvers-sur-Oise
27.0 99.2 H L'Isle Adam
28.2 100.4 L 6 1.50 L'Isle Adam
34.0 106.2 H Persan/Beaumont-sur-Oise
41.2 113.4 L 5 1.50 Boran
56.0 128.2 L 4 1.45 Creil
58.7 130.9 P Creil
62.0 134.2 P Verneuil-en-Halatte
71.8 144.0 L 3 1.40 Sarron
82.8 155.0 L 2 Verberie
91.5 163.7 P Marine Oise Plaisance
95.8 168.0 L 1 1.40 Venette
97.8 170.0 P Compiegne
99.5 171.7 River Aisne junction
Canal lateral a l'Oise
33.8 175.8 Canal lateral a l'Oise junction
33.8 175.8 L 4 3.33 Janville
33.0 175.0 H Longuiel-Annel
31.5 178.1 H Thourotte
28.3 181.3 L 3 2.98 Bellerive
18.5 191.1 Canal du Nord junction Speed limit 6 km/h Chauny to Canal du Nord junction
18.2 191.4 P Pont l'Eveque
18.1 191.5 L 2 1.52 Sempigny
8.9 200.7 L 1 2.49 St Hubert
0.5 209.1 P Chauny Speed limit 6 km/h Chauny to Canal du Nord junction
Canal de St. Quentin
0.0 209.6 Canal de St. Quentin junction
92.3 209.6 L 35 2.20 Chauny
90.8 211.1 L 34 2.04 Senicourt
88.4 213.5 L 33 2.21 Viry
85.8 216.1 L 32 1.43 Tergnier

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H = halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric and water
Canal de la Sambre a l'Oise
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
85.0 216.9 Canal de la Sambre a l'Oise jct
65.1 222.8 L 35 3.34 Travecy
62.6 225.3 L 34 2.65 Travecy-Montigny
58.4 229.5 L 33 1.96 Brissy
56.8 231.1 L 32 2.17 Hamegicourt
54.5 233.4 L 31 2.00 Berthenicourt
52.9 235.0 L 30 1.99 Mezieres-sur-Oise
51.6 236.3 L 29 1.70 Chatillon
49.7 238.2 L 28 1.99 Sissy
48.1 239.8 L 27 2.45 Ribemont
45.9 242.0 L 26 2.67 Thenelles
43.6 244.3 L 25 2.54 Origny Ste Benoite
40.9 247.0 L 24 3.53 Bernot
38.6 249.3 L 23 1.97 Hauteville
37.5 250.4 L 22 2.92 Macquigny
35.2 252.7 L 21 2.50 Noyales
33.2 254.7 L 20 1.92 Longchamps
31.6 256.3 L 19 3.13 Vadencourt
30.0 257.9 L 18 2.73 Grand Verly
29.2 258.7 L 17 Grand Verly
28.4 259.5 L 16 2.81 Tupigny
27.2 260.7 L 15 2.40 Tupigny
27.0 260.9 L 14 2.47 Tupigny
26.5 261.4 L 13 Hannapes
25.1 262.8 L 12 1.94 Hannapes
24.5 263.4 L 11 3.22 Venerolles
23.8 264.1 L 10 2.75 Venerolles
23.0 264.9 L 9 1.98 Venerolles
22.4 265.5 L 8 2.43 Etreux
22.1 265.8 L 7 2.11 Etreux
21.5 266.4 L 6 2.81 Etreux
21.1 266.8 L 5 2.77 Etreux
20.8 267.1 L 4 2.93 Etreux
20.1 267.8 L 3 2.84 Etreux
19.3 268.6 L 2 2.85 Etreux
18.9 269.0 L 1 2.76 Gard

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H = halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric and water
13.0 274.9 Summit
12.0 275.9 L 1 2.00 Bois l'Abbaye
5.8 282.1 L 2 2.00 Ors
0.3 282.4 L 3 1.69 Landrecies
0.3 282.4 P, S Landrecies
River Sambre
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
0.0 282.7 River Sambre junction
3.0 285.7 L 1 1.14 les Etoquies
7.7 290.4 L Ecluse 0.92 Hachette
11.1 293.7 L Ecluse 1.65 Sassegnies
17.8 300.4 L Ecluse 1.40 Berlaimont
21.5 304.1 P Pont-sur-Sambre
21.7 304.3 L Ecluse 1.32 Pont-sur-Sambre
26.2 308.8 L Ecluse 1.12 Quartes
32.3 314.9 H Boussieres-sur-Sambre
35.4 318.0 L Ecluse 1.43 Hautmont
41.4 324.0 L Ecluse 1.26 de Maubeuge
41.6 324.2 H Maubeuge
49.9 332.5 H Marpent
51.8 334.4 L Ecluse 1.10 de Marpent
53.0 335.6 H Erquelinnes/Jeumont
54.5 337.1 France/Belgium border
1.0 338.1 H Erquelinnes
2.9 340.0 L Ecluse 1.23 Solre sur Sambre
7.7 344.8 L Ecluse 2.23 La Buisiere
11.0 348.1 H Fontaine-Valmont
12.0 349.1 L Ecluse 2.19 Fontaine-Valmont
17.4 354.5 L Ecluse 1.50 Lobbes
19.0 356.1 H Thuin
20.1 357.2 L Ecluse 1.32 Thuin
22.4 359.5 L Ecluse 2.15 Garnd Courant
26.0 363.1 L Ecluse 2.73 Trou d'Aulne
27.5 364.6 H Abbaye d'Aulne
28.0 365.1 L Ecluse 1.94 Abbaye d'Aulne
28.1 365.2 H Abbaye d'Aulne
30.2 367.3 H Landelies
30.5 367.6 L Ecluse 2.11 Landelies
34.2 371.3 L Ecluse 4.89 Monceau sur Sambre
34.3 371.4 H Jambes de Bois

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H = halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric and water
38.6 375.7 C. de Charleroi à Bruxelles junction
39.3 376.4 L Ecluse 3.00 Marcinelle
44.2 381.3 L Ecluse 2.20 Montignies sur Sambre
49.3 386.4 S Pont de Loup Vankerkoven's Shipyard
50.8 387.9 L Ecluse 3.60 Roselies
61.8 398.9 L Ecluse 2.80 Auvelais
70.1 407.2 L Ecluse 4.60 Mornimont
77.7 414.8 L Ecluse 3.90 Floriffoux
85.5 422.6 L Ecluse 1.70 Namur (Salzinnes)
88.3 423.6 H Namur Preferred mooring is on Sambre, not Meuse
88.5 425.6 Meuse Junction
River Meuse
PK Km Stop Lock# Height Name Depart Date Arrive Date Comments
48.0 425.6 River Meuse
46.3 427.3 H Namur Preferred mooring is on Sambre, not Meuse
48.3 429.3 L Ecluse 3.90 grands malades
49.8 430.8 S Beez Meuse et Sambre Shipyard
63.1 444.1 L Ecluse 5.25 Andenne-Seilles
65.0 446.0 H Andenne
77.8 458.8 H Wanze
80.0 461.0 P Huy port de plaisance de Corphalie
82.6 463.6 L Ecluse 4.80 Ampsin Neuville
97.0 478.0 L Ecluse 4.45 Ivoz-Ramet
109.8 490.8 P Liege
114.0 495.0 Canal Albert Junction
2.2 497.2 L Ecluse 5.50 Monsin
17.0 512.0 Canal de Lanaye
17.2 512.2 L Ecluse 13.96 Lanaye
513.0 Belgium/Netherlands border
518.0 Maastricht

STOPS: L= lock S= shipyard H = halte, mooring with no services P= port with electric and water
 St-Jean-de-Losne
“The Center of the French Waterways”

Saône river
If you are considering buying a canal boat or barge, don’t buy without first checking with the brokers
at St-Jean-de-Losne, the “Center of the French Waterways”. Along with the crossroads geographical
location, in the last ten years the town has become France’s biggest center for canal boat & barge
sales, conversions & shipyard work and moorings for all sizes of vessels. Everyone mentioned in this
article speaks English; in fact many in the marine trade at St-Jean-de-Losne are English.

The area is not just the crossing of the waterways; it is also located on major highway and rail routes:
Paris is 300km via A6 Autoroute du Soleil, connect at Beaune for the last 30km on A36;
Dijon is 33km via D968;
Geneva is 159km via N5 or 253km via A39/A40;
Lyon is 184km via A39/A6.

By TGV high-speed train, it is only 100 minutes from Paris to Dijon, easily the fastest and most
comfortable way of traveling. At Dijon, local trains connect to St-Jean-de-Losne. By air, regional
airlines connect to Dijon from international airports at Paris, Geneva and Basel.

A word about the name: there are actually two towns; St-Jean-de-Losne is on the west bank of the
river Saône at the southern end of the Canal de Bourgogne, while the town of Losne is directly across
the river. Just at the end of the bridge in Losne is Auberge de la Marine, the best hotel and restaurant
for those not staying at Dijon or Beaune (both of which are reasonable options if you are driving.)

A Reader Comments: “Auberge de la Marine… affords a very pleasant view back across the Saône,
a view that is enhanced many mornings by superb misty sunrises up the river. It is a six or seven
minute walk to the H2O and Blanquart marinas and a minute or two more to the Crown Blue Line
offices. The hotel is a simple, clean 2-star… the restaurant is very busy and seems to have a good
reputation.” Michael Walsh,Vancouver, BC www.coinoisseur.com
 To Nancy &
Moselle

Canal de l’Est
Three routes
to Paris
Canal de la Marne
à la Saône

Dijon To Strasbourg
Dole
& Rhine
Canal
de Bourgogne Canal du Rhône
au Rhin
St Jean St Symphorien
Beaune de Losne

Seurre
The Center of the
Saône river
French Waterways
Canal de Centre

Chalon
sur Saône

To Rhône
& Lyon
St Jean de Losne is the home of the three major brokers of barges and canal
cruisers in France: H2O, Bourgogne Marine & Luxemotor Club.
The largest broker in the area is H2O; their published statement is that they are “the leading broker in
continental Europe for canal boats and barges”, which is probably accurate, in terms of volume. Full-
time managers Charles Gerard and Robert Bond founded the company in 1987 after many years of
canal boat experience. The substantial operations of H2O are described in a very interesting manner on
their website, which includes useful descriptions of barge and boat types, facts and figures on owning a
barge and general information about the canals. H2O are also agents for Self-Skippered rental boats
and Hotel Barge cruises at locations throughout Europe, with special emphasis and experience in their
home area of Burgundy.

Their current brokerage list shows 44 vessels for sale, about 30 of them on site. Some listed vessels are
available with a mooring, either in this area or at other locations in France. The list includes 21
converted barges from $39,000 to $560,000, two unconverted barges $33,000-$47,000 and 21 canal
cruisers (several Dutch steel cruisers) from $2,000 to $113,000.

H2O also provides mooring at three locations. The Port de Plaisance at St-Jean-de-Losne, home base
for H2O’s workshops, chandlery and brokerage offices, has docking for 170 cruisers and small barges.
For bigger barges, three kilometers down the Saône on the right bank in an abandoned section of canal,
moorings with electricity, water and telephone are available for boats up to 80 meters long.

At the village of Seurre 20 kilometers downstream on the left bank of the Saône, modern docks were
installed in 1996 for boats up to 25 meters. The harbor at Seurre is especially pleasant, as it is located
in a landscaped park at the edge of a village of red brick houses dating from the 16th to 19th century.
Highway access is easy; Seurre is 26km east of Beaune via a major road.
H2O’s harbor south of St-Jean-de-Losne
A full range of conversion and shipyard work is available in St-Jean-de-Losne; the strip of land on the
east side of the Canal de Bourgogne between the harbor and the basin at the end of the canal is the
village of St Usage, filled with workshops and a drydock. Here, conversions and upgrades for barges
and cruisers are done in all trades: electrical, carpentry, water systems, steelwork and mechanical
systems.

Along with H2O, others located in La gare d’eau (boat basin) at St-Jean-de-Losne/St Usage are Ets
Joel Blanquart, a marina with fuel and full services for boaters and their vessels, and the large fleet of
rental cruisers (some are for sale) at Crown Blue Line. At Jean-Luc Broudic’s Luxemotor Club,
located on the west side of the canal basin, the emphasis is on the conversion of large barges for
liveaboards, restaurants, excursions and other commercial purposes. His current list of 20 vessels
includes 8 French péniches, 6 Luxemotor barges, 4 Dutch barges (tjalk, klipper, klipperaak) and 2 tugs.
Prices range from $8,000 to $133,000. Most are already converted; some are to-be-converted.

Four kilometers east at St-Symphorien-sur-Saône, where the Canal du Rhône au Rhin meets the
Saône, more than a dozen barges are currently moored for the winter at Bourgogne Marine; some of
them are lived-aboard year round. They are protected from the floods of the Saône by locks. During our
recent visit, repairs at Lock #74 required the draining of the canal between Locks 74 & 75; the barges
moored in that basin were on their bottoms on the mud flats. (This points to a criterion when selecting a
vessel: can it “take the ground” on a flat bottom?) One of these moored barges is familiar to readers of
the book Barging in Europe, Roger van Dyken’s Vertrouwen, with Mini (British automobile) aboard.

Bourgogne Marine’s owner, Roger Walster, specializes in barges and large cruisers. Along with
brokerage of such vessels, he offers mooring, winterizing, repairs & installations and full conversions
& fit-outs of barges. Dry-docking and surveying are organized on short notice. His advertisements and
website lists 9 vessels; 3 Luxemotor, 3 Tjalk, 2 barges and 1 sea-going cruiser, at prices from $26,000 to
$160,000.
 Barges wintering at Bourgogne Marine
St-Symphorien-sur-Saône

Canal du Rhône au Rhin

Barges wintering at Bourgogne Marine
St-Symphorien-sur-Saône
The port at Seurre
BOAT BROKERS in France (Specialists in inland waterway vessels)

At St-Jean-de-Losne: Elsewhere in France:

H2O Fluvial-Migennes
Charles Gerard, Robert Bond Jo Parfitt
or Catherine Rault; Port de Plaisance, rte Charmoy
21170 St-Jean-de-Losne. 89400 Migennes
Tel 03.80.39.23.00, fax 03.80.29.04.67 Tél : 03 86 92 93 13
e-mail: h2o@h2ofrance.com Fax : 03 86 92 93 27
www.h2ofrance.com e-mail: fluvialmig@aol.com
www.fluvial-migennes.com/
Bourgogne Marine
Roger Walster Koejac Yachting
21170 St-Symphorien-sur-Saône. Quai des Belges
Tel 03.80.39.25.63 fax 03.80.29.11.49 B.P. 16 – 67064 Strasbourg CEDEX
e-mail: bourgogne-marine @wanadoo.fr Tel: 03 88 61 26 78
www.bourgogne-marine.com Fax: 03 88 60 46 73
www.koejac.fr/
Luxemotor Club
Jean-Luc Broudic Midi Broker
6, quai du canal, 21170 St-Usage. Peniche “LANGUEDOC”
Tel 03.80.39.28.55 fax 03.80.39.25.04 Port Guery
e-mail: luxmotc@club-internet.fr 34350 Capestang
Tel: 06 77 22 20 07
Ets Joel Blanquart e-mail: contact@midi-broker.com
Tel 03.80.29.11.06 fax 03.80.29.17.18 www.midi-broker.com
Vessel Dimensions: Clearing Restrictive Bridges and Tunnels on the French Canals

"gabarit admis" - allowable maximum dimensions on Freycinet-gauge waterways

5.00 m Maximum Length = 38.50 meters

Maximum Height at centerline = 3.50 meters

3.00 m Note: A wheelhouse is shown in this sketch,

2.00 m however accurate information regarding the
maximum width of these "shoulders" is not
1.80 m available. The estimated safe width is 3.00 m
for shoulders at 3.00 m height.

Canal du Midi; Capestang Bridge -

Note: This bridge is known to be one of the

tightest on the French waterway network.

3.30 m

1.50 m
2.40 m at 5.00 m width

Canal du Nivernais: Dimensions vary significantly along the canal; for obvious reasons,
the large hotel barges travel between Auxerre & Clamecy.
From To Height Draft Length
Auxerre Clamecy 3.25 m 1.40 m 38.5 m
Clamecy Sardy 2.97 1.20 38.5
Sardy Decize 2.70 1.20 30.5

Canal de Bourgogne: The summit tunnel is restrictive.

Bridges Tunnel at Pouilly

3.40 m 3.10 m

1.80 m 1.80 m

Copyright 2002 EuroCanals

 Waterways of Belgium

Ghent-Ostend Canal at Bruges

 a
uroC na EuroCanals Guide: Belgium - Principal Waterways
E

ls
Also Showing Connecting Waterways in Adjoining Countries
Page 2

Amsterdam
ENGLAND North Sea
Rotterdam

London
THE NETHERLANDS
Thames
Maas
Zeebrugge
Rhine
Oostende Antwerp
Brugge
Nieuwpoort
Dunkirk Gent
Calais
Kortrijk

Tournai Brussels
Lys
English Channel Liege GERMANY
Charleroi
Mons/
Escaut Bergen Namur

For more information on this area Sambre

refer to EuroCanals Guides:
Waterways of Northern France
South From The Netherlands

FRANCE Meuse LUXEM

BOURG
For more information on this area
refer to EuroCanals Guides:
Meuse/Canal de l'Est
South From The Netherlands

Paris

Copyright 2003 EuroCanals

The Waterways of Belgium By Tom Sommers January 2003 Page 3

We started to hear it almost two decades ago, before we had traveled very much in Europe; our
Austrian/Swiss son-in-law told us that Belgium is generally looked-down-upon by other Europeans.
And now we have found the same attitude among many canal cruisers, that (with a few notable
exceptions) Belgium is that not very pleasant place in between the more desirable cruising areas in France
and the source of many vessels and conversion work, The Netherlands.

The waterways most often serve industrial areas, thus they are busy with commercial barges and
sometimes pass through unpleasant and polluted environments. Pleasure cruising has been largely
neglected by the waterway authorities, although this has been changing over the past few years and
facilities are improving in some areas. (One major improvement was finally completed in 2002, the
Strepy-Thieu boatlift; see pages 12-13.)

This guide has been written to help those boaters that are “just passing through” but also to encourage
pleasure cruising in Belgium, to find and enjoy a country that is rich in history, art, excellent museums,
fine restaurants and friendly people in cosy, welcoming local bars. Some live-aboard bargees have found
that this is a great country in which to moor for extended periods; don’t worry about the commercial
traffic and less-pleasant areas, just find the spots that you enjoy!

Belgium is divided into two regions of language: French is used in Wallonie (Wallonia), on the southern
side, and Dutch is used in Vlaanderen (Flanders), in the north. This separation also applies to culture,
government and the administration of the waterways. (See Useful Addresses on page 18 for this
information.)

A network of canals spreads throughout the country, with the only exception being the area in the
mountains of the southeast bordering Germany and Luxembourg. Some of the original canals have not
been maintained and are no longer in service, but 1,523 kilometers of waterways are currently active.
Although a few canals are dead-end, they are all connected in a single network that can be accessed by
any cruising vessel. Lock dimensions vary substantially, but the minimum size is no smaller than the
Freycinet standard common in France; the minimum dimensions found anywhere in Belgium are Draft
1.80 meters, Height 3.60 m, Beam 5.08 m.

Flanders is “Low Country”, so there is an abundance of waterways and a relatively small number of locks.
But even in the relatively hilly country of Wallonie there are fewer locks than on many of the popular
canals in France. Look at some statistics:
Flanders Wallonie Belgium total
Number of waterways 33 9 42
Waterways with no locks 8 0 8
Total number of locks 102 50 152

Compare these numbers with the Canal de l’Est in France (refer to EuroCanals Report: Meuse/Canal de
l’Est), where there are 184 locks, more on this one canal route than the total in all of Belgium. It is
essential to include the effect of locks in planning a trip, but in most of Belgium it is not a major factor.
 Cana
E uro Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe

ls Waterways of Belgium

NETHERLANDS
B
BELGIUM

GERMANY
Zeebrugge 21
Terneuzen 3 7 Turnhout
Oostende A Schoten Dessel 8 C
22
Brugge Antwerpen 4 Bocholt 10a
5 8 9 11
Nieuwpoort 23 20b 1 6b
21 4
24
25
Gent 6a 10b

J 26
20a 2 13
14
Roeselare 18 Deinze 12 4
27 19
Vlaanderen 10c

Ieper Kortrijk
17
16 15
Brussel Leuven
(Flanders) D
4
I
Tournai Ath 29
Wallonie
(Wallonia) 34a Liege
31 28
30
31 29 Namur Huy
H Mons
G 32
33a
Charleroi
34b
33b Dinant
Canals F
Rivers

FRANCE
LUXEM-
BOURG

© Copyright 2006 EuroCanals

Waterways of Belgium Page 5

Map Waterway From To Distance Locks Draft Height Length/Beam Speed

Code km meters meters meters km/hr
1 Kanaal Gent-Terheuzen Gent Zelzate 17.1 0 12.5 51.0 16
(Belgium portion) (NL border)
2 Boven-Zeeschelde Gent Antwerp 77.0 1 2.50 4.35 96.0 X 11.4 12
3 Beneden-Zeeschelde Antwerp Zandvliet (NL border) 30.8 0 5.0 45.0
Westerschelde
4 Albertkanaal Antwerp Liege 129.6 6 3.00 6.35 200.0 X 24.0 12
5 Rupel Rupelmonde Rumst 12.0 0 2.70 35 60 (!)
6a Beneden-Nete Rumst Duffel 10.2 0 2.50 4.50 12
6b Netekanaal Duffel Albertkanaal 15.4 2 2.50 6.95 81.6 X 10.5 12
7 Kanaal van Dessel Schoten Dessel 63.3 10 1.90 5.30 51.8 X 7.0 7.2
over Turnhout
naar Schoten
8 Kanaal Bocholt-Herentals Herentals Bocholt 57.4 10 2.10 4.93 51.8 X 7.0 7.2
9 Kanaal Dessel- Dessel Kwaadmechelen 15.8 0 2.80 5.20 7.2
Kwaadmechelen
10a Zuidwillemsvaart Lozen (NL border) Bocholt 4.9 2 1.90 5.15 52.3 X 7.0 7.2
10b Zuidwillemsvaart Bocholt Smeermaas 38.6 0 2.50 5.15 7.2
10c Kanaal Briegden- Neerharen Briegden 4.9 2 2.50 6.05 55.0 X 7.5 7.2
Neerharen
11 Kanaal naar Beverlo Lommel Leopoldsburg 14.8 0 1.90 4.40 7.2
12 Kanaal Leuven-Dijle Rumst Leuven 30.0 5 2.30 6.0 52.0 X 7.8 6
(jct Dijle)
13 Dijle Rumst Mechelen 6.5 1 2.5 5.45 109.5 X 10.5 6
(jct Boven-
Zeeschelde)
14 Zeekanaal Brussel- Brussels Hingene 34.4 3 2.50 4.45 106.0 X 14.75 12
Schelde (jct Boven-Zeeschelde)
15 Dender Dendermonde Ath 65.3 13 1.90 3.70 41.85 X 5.20 6
16 Boven-Schelde (Flanders) Bléharies Gent 92.0 6 2.10 3.90 41.5 X 6.50 8/12
Haut Escaut (Wallonie) (FR/BE border)
17 Kanaal Bossuit-Kortrijk Bossuit Kortrijk 15.2 8 1.80 3.93 38.7 X 5.16 8/15
(jct Boven-Schelde) (jct Leie)
18 Leie Menen Gent 63.2 2 1.90 4.19 115 X 5.20 9
19 Kanaal Roeselare-Leie Ooigem (jct Leie) Roeselare 16.5 1 2.50 5.01 115 X 12.5 15
20a Afleidingskanaal van de Deinze Balgerhoeke 27.5 1 2.30 4.50 44.05 X 6.07 8
Leie
20b Kanaal van Eeklo Afleidingskanaal van Eeklo 1.7 0 2.30 4.85 6
de Leie
21 Boudewijnkanaal Brugge Zeebrugge 12.0 1 4.75 open 125.0 X 12.0 7.2
22 Kanaal Gent-Oostende Gent Oostende 66.3 1 2.30 4.20 70.0 X 11.9 12
Waterways of Belgium Page 6

Map Waterway From To Distance Locks Draft Height Length/Beam Speed

Code km meters meters meters km/hr
23 Kanaal Plassendaele- Plassendaele Nieuwpoort 21.0 2 2.0 5.20 90 X 6.35 5
Nieuwpoort (jct Kanaal Gent-
Oostende)
24 Kanaal Nieuwpoort- Nieuwpoort French border 18.7 2 1.80 4.50 43 X 5.40 5
Duinkerke
25 Ijzer Nieuwpoort Fintele 31.0 1 1.80 4.80 45.1 X 8.50 7
26 Lokanaal Veurne Fintele 14.3 1 1.80 3.90 47.4 X 5.20 5

27 Kanaal Ieper - Ijzer jct Ijzer Ieper 15.2 2 1.80 4.05 40.85 X 5.15 5

28 Kanaal Blaton-Ath Blaton Ath 22.6 21 1.90 3.60 41.05 X 5.08 3.6

29 Kanaal Charleroi - Charleroi Brussel 68.2 11 2.50 4.50 81.6 X 11.5 8

Brussel
30 Centrumkanaal Seneffe Nimy 24.3 3 2.50 4.95 96 X 12 8
Canal du Centre (jct Kanaal Charleroi (jct Kanaal Nimy - Blaton –
– Brussel) Peronnes)
31 Kanaal Nimy-Blaton- Nimy Peronnes 38.9 2 2.50 4.95 86 X 12 8
Péronnes (jct Centrumkanaal) (jct Boven – Schelde)
32 Kanaal Pommeroeul - Pommeroeul Hensies 6.1 2 3.0 6.8 149 X 12.5 8
Condé (FR border)
33a BenedenSamber Namur Monceau 53.3 8 2.60 4.20 111.9 X 12.5 9
(Charleroi)
33b BovenSamber Monceau Erquelinnes 34.2 9 2.20 3.75 40.47 X 5.15 7.2
(Charleroi) (FR border)
34a MiddenMaas Monsin Namur 68.8 4 2.80 6.30 136 X 14 15
(Liege)
34b BovenMaas Namur Hastiere 45.8 9 2.40 5.22 100 X 12 15
(FR border)
Connecting Waterways (in The Netherlands and France) Page 7
Map Waterway From To
Code
A Kanaal Gent-Terneuzen BE/NL border Terneuzen, NL
(NL portion)
B Schelde – Zandvliet, BE Bergen-op-Zoom, NL
Rijnverbinding BE/NL border
C Zuidwillemsvaart BE/NL border s’Hertgenbosch, NL
D Maas Maastricht, NL Nijmegen, NL
BE/NL border
E Meuse/Canal de l’Est Givet, FR Charleville-Mezieres, FR
BE/FR border
F Sambre Jeumont, FR Oise river, FR
BE/FR border
G Escaut BE/FR border Conde & Valenciennes,
FR
H Scarpe BE/FR border Douai, FR
H Escaut BE/FR border Conde & Valenciennes,
FR
I Lys BE/FR border Armentieres, FR
J Canal de Furnes BE/FR border Dunkerque
Through Routes: North/South between France & The Netherlands Page 8
Somewhat surprisingly, there are only four inland-waterway connections along the entire
Belgium/Netherlands border; Kanaal Gent-Terneuzen & Schelde–Rijnverbinding in central Belgium and
Zuidwillemsvaart & Maas river on the eastern side.

Near the North Sea, in the province of Zeeland NL, vessels suitable for the open waters of the Ooster- and
Wester-Schelde can arrive at the port of Terneuzen and travel south, along with large commercial ships,
on the industrial Kanaal Gent-Terneuzen to the port of Gent. From there, the binnenvaart (inland
waterways) network of Belgium can be used to travel west to English Channel ports or coastal France,
south to French canals leading to Paris and the rest of France, or east to Antwerpen and Brussel.

A more protected route through Zeeland is the Schelde–Rijnverbinding, “binding” the mouth of the Rhine
and the area around Dordrecht and Rotterdam to the Schelde river at Antwerpen. The Schelde route
continues west to Gent. But southbound traffic can pass due south through Brussel and on into France, or
choose the smaller scale (but many more locks) of the Dender river and Kanaal Blaton-Ath.

Probably the most popular route for waterway travel between these two countries is at the eastern side of
the Belgian network, along the Maas/Meuse river. From Nijmegen, in southeastern NL, southbound
cruisers most commonly travel up the Maas and the Julianakanaal to the city of Maastricht and enter
Belgium near Liége. From central NL, the Zuid-Willemsvaart can be used from s’Hertgenbosch to
Maastricht (or as an optional bypass of the Maas/Julianakanaal, especially if the river flow is strong.)
Following the Meuse upstream will bring you directly into France in the Champagne-Ardenne region, or
you can stay in Belgium and cross to the west from Namur past Charleroi and enter France on either the
Sambre or Escaut rivers. (For full details, see the EuroCanals Report South from The Netherlands.)

Through Routes: East into Germany

There are no connecting routes directly into Germany or Luxembourg. Access to Germany is available
from Nijmegen, NL on the Waal (Rhine) river or other canals further north. From France, access is
available from Nancy on the Moselle/Mosel river or from Strasbourg & Mulhouse on the Rhine.

Through Routes: East/West

Traveling across Belgium is via the Albertkanaal (with two options) in the north and the Canal du
Centre/Meuse in the south. It is not often done, except to connect into The Netherlands on the Maas or to
do a circular cruise of Belgium. In the latter case, the northern options may be attractive, leaving the
commercial traffic on the purpose-built Albertkanaal while visiting a few small towns along the more
rural, slower Zuidwillemsvaart/Kanaal Bocholt-Herentals/Kanaal Dessel-Turnhout-Schoten.

Through Routes: Channel Ports

There are three ports equally spaced along the English Channel coastline of Belgium: Zeebrugge,
Oostende and Nieuwpoort. But all of these are a longer sea-crossing from England than to Calais or
Dunkerque, so most vessels crossing the channel on their own bottom will arrive at one of the French
ports and then travel north on the series of canals which parallel the coast, connecting the Belgian ports to
each other and to Brugge. Vessels which are transported by truck can utilize a commercial ferry to
Oostende.
Favorite Tourist Regions Page 9
Gent, the capital of Flanders, is a true center of the compass; waterways radiate north, east, south and
west, with access from the center of the city or from the Ringvaart which circles the perimeter and
connects all of the waterways. The Ringvaart makes it easy to bypass Gent and continue directly on a
route from Brugge to Antwerpen or Brussel, for instance. It is not a full circle, rather a large C with the
top end at the seaport north of the city and the bottom end at the Boven-Zeeschelde on the southeast of the
city, where the tidal Schelde turns toward Antwerpen. But the C crosses Kanaal Gent-Oostende, river Leie
(and Arm van Drongen of the Leie), Bovenschelde as it enters the city from the south and the Boven-
Zeeschelde as it leaves the city on the southeast.

It is easy to guess the reason that Gent became an important city many centuries ago, as it is located at the
junction of two major rivers, the Leie and the Schelde. The Leie loops through the center of the city and
several canal cuts have been added, so there is a great deal of waterfront. However, some channels are
forbidden and cannot be accessed by visiting boaters. Moorings are available in marinas and along the
banks of the Leie in certain locations. It is essential to plan your route into Gent in advance, using one of
the detailed (and current) navigation charts listed under Cruising Guides (see page 16.) Once you are
moored in Gent, the historical and cultural sights can be visited on foot, by bike or by dinghy (guided tour
boats and small rental boats are available.)

Brugge, the “Venice of the North”, is, like Gent, crisscrossed by many small canals, although nearly all of
them are forbidden to visiting vessels. Kanaal Gent-Oostende curves around the city from the northwest to
the south, forming a backward C. The name comes from the Norse “Bruggia”, meaning mooring place,
and moorings are available for extended visits to this very pleasant and interesting small city. Modern
docks are located at the southern end of the C, or for a walking-distance mooring use the Coupure, a dead-
end canal cut into the center of the city from the southeast curve of the C. As with the “other” Venice,
Brugge has always been a major trading center, although nowadays the trade is mostly with the large
volume of tourists. The village-like city is one of the most charming and easily-toured destinations in
Europe. There are scores of shops and restaurants to satisfy any tastes. Almost everyone rides the canal
sightseeing boats, which are most enjoyable when the stone buildings are floodlit in the evening.

From Brugge, one of the abandoned canals of Belgium can be the location of a pleasant day’s excursion.
A bicycle path alongside the Damse Vaart leads from the northeast corner of the ring canal to the classic
Flemish village of Damme and beyond into the perfectly flat but very beautiful countryside, well
populated by dairy cows. Don’t pack a lunch, you will find enjoyable small cafes in the village.

Local Beverages: While coffee and tea (the latter thanks to the many British visitors) are staple drinks in
this part of Belgium, non-teetotalers shouldn’t miss the many opportunities to visit some of the cosy (but
smoky) bars and sample a few of the nearly 400 Belgian beers or enjoy Genever, the Flemish ancestor of
gin. The beers are made in a wide range of flavors and strengths, so the only way to find the ones that you
like best is to keep trying! Order bottled beer in the bars rather than draft, and start with the lighter grades.
Genever should be considered in a category with cognac or single-malt whiskies. Artisan distilleries
produce the high-quality spirit in Flanders and in Holland; pertinent to the subject of this report, some of
these are located in Deinze and on farms along the river Leie south of Gent. In fact, the custom of serving
genever is to give it Leea zecht “a view over the river Leie” by pouring beyond the rim of the glass, where
it is held by surface tension. Bend down and take a sip before picking-up the glass.
Haut Escaut to Canal du Centre: Page 10
The waterways in western Wallonie along the French border can offer some interesting cruising despite
the presence of commercial traffic (#16, 31, 30 on the map, page 5.) Tournai, on the Haut Escaut at the
western end of this area, is one of Belgium’s oldest cities, founded and fortified by the Romans; sights
include the cathedral. medieval houses and an ancient bridge. At the border with France, travelers can
continue into France on the Escaut or turn east just on the Belgian side at Péronnes to join the Canal
Nimy-Blaton-Péronnes, which after Nimy becomes the Canal du Centre (Centrumkanaal.) Stops can be
made along here at several yacht clubs, marinas and municipal facilities.

At Blaton, the Canal Blaton-Ath (#28 on the map, page 5.) branches north over a summit (with 21 locks
in only 22 kilometers) to meet the Dender river, which flows north to the Boven-Zeeschelde between
Gent and Antwerpen. Continuing east, the most interesting city on this section is Mons (Mons is the
French name, it is Bergen in Flemish; both refer to the many hills or mounds around and in the city.)

But the real fun begins on the Canal du Centre, which rises 95 meters in the twenty kilometers from Mons
to Houdeng, most of it in the spectacular boatlift at Strep-Thieu (see “The Boatlifts”, page 12-13.) This is
where the low, farming country of coastal Belgium is left behind for the forested hills of the Ardennes and
the Meuse valley.

Namur, Dinant and the Meuse valley: From the city of Namur south to the French border the Meuse
valley passes through tight loops in the Ardennes forests and the wooded cliffs often close in right to the
riverbank. Here you will forget that some other parts of Belgium are industrial or unpleasant, for this is
idyllic cruising at its best. (Refer to the EuroCanals Report “Meuse/Canal de l’Est”.)

Turnhout: This is a town in the middle of the Kanaal van Dessel over Turnhout naar Schoten (#7 on
the map, page 5.) Its name is commonly used to replace the cumbersome but very descriptive “canal from
Dessel to Schoten via Turnhout”. This is the scenic route and slow lane to bypass part of the Albertkanaal
across the very northern part of Belgium, an area with many Dutch influences and history.

Veurne: Located just above the French-Belgian border and only a few kilometers from the coast of the
English Channel, this small town is favored by some UK cruisers as a pleasant port to moor for short-term
or long-term.
The Boatlifts
Boatlifts of various designs are used on some European waterways, to replace a series of closely-spaced
locks. Belgium boasts two very impressive lifts, at Ronquières and at Strepy-Thieu. As noted in a
previous EuroCanals report describing the French inclined-plane boatlift at Arzviller, these significant
engineering achievements are even a tourist attraction for non-boaters.

The inclined plane of Ronquières, on the Canal de Charleroi à Bruxelles (in the “Petites Ardennes” of the
Wallonie region, just north of the eastern end of the Canal du Centre), was built in the 1960s. Its two
tanks can each hold a 1350-ton barge, or several smaller vessels; the tanks are not counterweights for each
other, concrete and cast iron counterweights allow each tank to operate independently. The inclined-plane
ramp, replacing 19 conventional locks, is 1432 meters long and rises 68 meters (I am an engineer, so I
have to report that is a 4.7% grade.) The trip is accomplished in forty minutes. At the top, vessels enter a
canal bridge 300 meters long to reach the higher land at the summit of the canal. The lifting work is done
by electric motors, however some of the energy is recovered by passing the flow of water from the
upsteam canal through hydroelectric turbines, since it is not needed to operate a normal lock system.

Included in the facilities at Ronquières is a tower 150 meters tall, open for tourist viewing of the
surrounding countryside. From this tower it is possible to see the vertical boatlift at Strepy-Thieu, only
thirteen kilometers away (straightline) on the Canal du Centre. The two boatlifts are the connections
between the low country of Flanders and the higher, hilly Wallonie region, the watershed of the Meuse.

After twenty years of construction, the futuristic-looking structure at Strepy-Thieu opened for traffic in
September 2002, replacing four aged (late 19th century) hydraulic boatlifts and two locks. Each 8000-ton
tub is lifted by cables 73 meters straight up in eight minutes. If this were accomplished by a series of
normal locks, say at 3 meters each, it would require about 24 locks!

Canal travelers have been waiting for Strepy-Thieu for some time. My own story about it is that I first
visited it by car, detouring just a few kilometers off the autoroute while returning to Paris from Holland in
October 2000. I approached from the lower side and took the photo shown on the next page; it appeared to
be totally completed, even the red traffic lights were operating. Then I drove to the upstream side, and
couldn’t find the canal. Red lights were visible across a barren field, but there weren’t any vessels to be
stopped by the lights, because the canal hadn’t been dug yet! Now it has, but even when the link was
finally opened, early travelers reported some dredging and digging still going on.

Even if you are not cruising on these canals, a visit to both is recommended if you are in the area. Each is
an impressive and interesting sight.
Ronquières Inclined Plane

Strepy-Thieu Boatlift The roof is the size of a football field, and note the window-cleaners apparatus on each side.
Other Cities on the prinicipal waterways Page 13
Much of the Belgian canal network is heavily used by commercial barges to serve the industrial sections
of the country. Because of this, there are several cities which cannot be recommended in the same way as
those above:

Antwerpen: A major seaport and petrochemical processing center, the commercial harbor at this city can
be daunting to pleasure cruisers. It’s best to tie up across the river Schelde at the Imalso Jachthaven,
which is separated from the tidal river by a lock. A pedestrian tunnel under the river will bring you to the
downtown restaurants, shops and diamond merchants. The National Maritime Museum is located here,
home to an extensive collection of ships, maps and nautical instruments.

The canal route between Antwerpen and Brussel is not an enjoyable cruise. The banks are mostly lined by
industrial plants. The tidal canal is wide, fast and uncomfortable to stop, except at very large, widely
spaced piles intended for commercial barges.

Brussel: The capital city (and now the center of European Union bureaucracy) might be listed as a
“Favorite Tourist Region” along with Brugge and Gent, if it made itself a more pleasant stop for canal
travelers. Although the city has a lot of things to offer for visitors, a welcoming, pleasant waterfront along
the canal is not one of them.The canal which passes through the city is busy with commercial traffic and
is fronted by some rather dismal neighborhoods and industrial buildings. Regarding ports, one boater
reported “...the Royal Yacht Club seemed to be the only place, but was not one I would really recommend
- noisy roads, and just off the main canal with fast moving barges and plenty of surge.”

Charleroi: Sometimes called the “Capital of the Black Country” for the coal, glass and iron industries of
the area. One EuroCanals member wrote “...through the unfortunate Charleroi, one of the worst industrial
wastelands I have recently seen (I have seen a few, Almaty Kazakhstan, Murmansk, etc...)” The center of
the city may be of some interest, but there are no ports to recommend.

Liége/Luik: This is another very industrial city. The Albertkanaal was built for the purpose of bringing
large ships from the sea at Antwerpen directly to the industries of Liége, and apparently it has worked out
well, for there is a large volume of heavy barges and ships using the route and it is now Europe’s third
largest river port. But the port authority has also provided a pleasure-boat harbor in the heart of the city,
convenient to pedestrian streets and market squares; fine pastries are a specialty here.
Less Traveled Routes Page 14
There are several dead-end canals in Belgium that lead from the primary network to a city at the end of
the canal. Cruises on these canals have not been reported by EuroCanals members, and there are no
specific comments to be offered. Contributions from readers who may have traveled on any of these
routes is invited.

Afleidingskanaal van de Leie (#20a on the map, page 5) is useful as a bypass of Gent from the
northbound river Leie west to the Kanaal Gent-Oostende. But it also continues north for another 13.4 km
toward Zeebrugge before it stops at a section no longer in service. Near this point is the side canal Kanaal
van Eeklo, a short connector into the city of Eeklo.

Kanaal Roeselare-Leie (#19 on the map, page 5) heads west from the river Leie for 15.4 km into the city
of Roeselare.

Kanaal Leuven-Dijle (#12 on the map, page 5) reaches southeast from Rumst, past the city of Mechelen
for 31.4 km to the city of Leuven. The adjacent river Dijle (#13 on the map, page 5) is navigable for 6.5
km through Mechelen; it was previously navigable for another 50 km on the Demer river to Diest, but that
section has been abandoned.

Kanaal naar Beverlo (#11 on the map, page 5) doesn’t quite get to Beverlo; it turns south near Dessel
and ends at Leopoldsburg, 14.8 km later (But if it doesn’t go all the way to Beverlo, does anyone care? I
don’t know.)

Lokanaal and Ijzer (#25-26 on the map, page 5) offer a loop cruise of 45.3 km and 2 locks, with a side
canal Kanaal Ieper-Ijzer (#27 on the map, page 5) leading another 15.2 km to a dead-end at the city of
Ieper (Ypres).

Kanaal Bossuit-Kortrijk (#17 on the map, page 5) is a 15.2 km connector between the Boven-Schelde
and the Leie; the junction with the Leie is at the city of Kortrijk.
Cruising Guides & Charts
The website of Promotie Binnevaart Vlaanderen (the authority to promote the waterways of Flanders)
has available on their website charts and information pages on the navigable waterways in all of Belgium
(including Wallonie) as well as the adjoining waterways in Holland (and even the major waterways in
Germany.) Unfortunately, it is only available in Dutch, but most information can be deduced.
Go to: www.binnenvaart.be/htm/02ws/02ws.htm then click on “Waterwegenkaarten” (waterway maps)
To view a chart, click on “Bekijk kaarten”; for detailed information on each waterway, with dimensions
and telephone numbers for each lock, click on “Technische gegevens”.

TOERISTISCHE VAARGIDS (Guide Touristique Fluvial) in Dutch and French. This 272 page book
covers West-Flanderen, Oost-Flanderen, Vlaams-Brabant, Brussel, Brabant Wallon, Hainaut and Nord-
Pas de Calais, i.e. western Belgium as far east as Antwerp, Brussels and Charleroi and includes the
northern French waterways from Calais to Cambrai. 30 Euros plus p&p; available at chandleries and at
some locks, or from the West Flandres offices in Brugge. Address: West-Vlaamse Vereniging Vrije Tijd,
Provinciehuis Abdijbeke, Abdijbekestraat 9, 8200 Sint-Andries, Belgium. Email: tim.provoost@west-
vlaanderen.be. Tel: +32 (0) 50 40 70 43.

TOERVAREN TUSSEN MAAS EN SCHELDE (Croisieres Entre Meuse Et Escaut) in Dutch,

French and German. It covers Noord-Brabant, Limburg (NL), Limburg (B), Antwerpen and Vlaams-
Brabant, i.e.the north west from Antwerp and Brussels in the west and Liege in the south, and includes
some of the Nederlands. This 208 page book costs 24 Euros plus p&p and is available from: Brabants
Bureau voor Toerisme, Stadhuisplein 128, NL-5038 TC Tilburg, Nederland.
Tel: +31 (0) 13 544 32 09. Fax: +31 (0) 13 535 37 95. Website: www.bbt.nl Email: info@bbt.nl
It can be ordered at www.toervaren.nl/bestel.htm but that only works with a Belgium bank account.

VAARGIDS VOOR BELGIE (Guide to the Belgian rivers) by Ludo de Clercq. It covers the whole of
Belgium and has 420 pages in Dutch, French, English and German. ISBN 90-837 14-1-6. 48.50 Euros
To quote one reader “...it's as expensive as it is heavy. But worth it.” It is available through nautical book
shops and chandleries in Belgium.

Navicarte #23: SCHEEPVAARTWEGEN BELGIE (Itineraires Fluviaux de Belgique)

This is not one of the usual chart/guidebooks published by Navicarte and familiar to many canal travelers.
It is a poster-style chart of the whole of Belgium, 988mm wide (39 inches) by 668mm high (25 inches),
scale 1/250,000. Data on reverse side in French/English/German. All canals and rivers are shown, with
full dimensional data and the approximate location of each lock. Very useful for route planning, less so
for detailed navigation, although there are inset maps of Brugge, Oostende, Brussel, Nieuwpoort, Maas,
Luik, Gent, Antwerpen. ISBN 2-7416-0148-8 It is available through nautical book shops and chandleries
in Belgium, France and Holland, or by telephoning Editions Grafocarte: +33 (0) 1 41 09 19 00 or Fax
+33 (0) 1 41 09 19 22 www.grafocarte.fr or www.guide-fluvial.com/

GEOCART Carte des voies navigables de Belgique A four-map set, in a waterproof wallet. One map is
an overview, the other three show details of the canals, rivers, ports, marinas, locks and bridges, with
VHF channels. ISBN 90-6736-132-1
www.geocart.be/ Email: carto@geocart.be Tel: +32 (3) 760.14.60 Fax: +32 (3) 760.15.28
Available from DBA-The Barge Association £12.00; contact paul@goldsack1.co.uk for details.
A Note Concerning Place Names Page 16
Belgium is a country of more than one language and is bounded by other countries that often have their
own version of the name for a place or waterway. This makes it confusing to prepare maps and
documents, so I have elected to show (with some exceptions) the name used locally in that part of
Belgium.

The following are some of the place names as used in other languages (reader’s comments welcome):

Dutch (Vlaaderen) French (Wallonne) English

België Belgique Belgium
Vlaanderen Flandre Flanders
Wallonië Wallonne/Wallonie Wallonia
Antwerpen Anvers Antwerp
Bergen Mons Mons or Bergen
Brussel Bruxelles Brussels
Brugge Bruges Bruges
Doornik Tournai Tournai
Duinkerken Dunkerque Dunkirk
Gent Gand Ghent
Ieper Ypres Ypres
Luik Liége Liege
Kortrijk Courtrai Kortrijk
Namen Namur Namur
Nieuwpoort Nieuport Newport
Oostende Ostende Ostend (East End)
Roeselare Roulers Roeselare

RIVERS:
Boven-Schelde Haut Escaut Upper Escaut
Boven-Zeeschelde Escaut Maritime Supérieur Upper Escaut Maritime
Beneden-Zeeschelde Escaut Maritime Inférieur Lower Escaut Maritime
Grensleie Lys mitoyenne Middle Lys
Ijzer Yser Ijzer
Leie Lys Leie/Lys
Maas Meuse Maas/Meuse
Samber Sambre Sambre
Schelde Escaut Schelde/Scheldt

CANALS:
“Centrumkanaal” “Canal du Centre” “Central canal”
“Kanaal van Dessel “Canal de Dessel “Turnhout canal”
over Turnhout à Schoten”
naar Schoten”
Useful Addresses
Waterway Administration, Flanders:
Ministerie van de Vlaamse Gemeenschap
Afdeling Beleid Havens, Waterwegen & Zeewezen
Graaf de Ferrarisgebouw
Albert II-laan 20, bus 5, 1000 Brussel
Tel: +32/2/553.77.02, Fax: +32/2/553.77.35

Waterway Administration, Wallonia:

Ministère wallon de l’Equipement et des transports
Direction de la Coordination D 215
Voies hydrauliques
Boulevard du Nord 8, 5000 Namur
Tel: +32/81/77.20.00, Fax: +32/81/77.37.99

Waterway Administration, Brussels area:

Port de Bruxelles
Place des Armatures 6, 1000 Bruxelles
Tel: +32/2/420.67.00, Fax: +32/2/420.69.74

Websites
General rules and regulations for pleasure boating in Belgium, with contact addresses (PDF downloads):
http://www.vici.fgov.be/data/aqua/TOERISME_FR.pdf (in French and English)
ftp://ftpext.met.wallonie.be/pub/voies-hydrauliques/nav/plaisance_intro_uk.pdf (in English)

Flanders Waterways:
www.lin.vlaanderen.be/awz/html/enframe.html (in English)

Wallonie Waterways:
voies-hydrauliques.wallonie.be/infos/index.html (in French)
Includes a route planner for Wallonie; click on Depart and Arrive points for information.

Tourist Information for Brugge/Bruges and Gent/Ghent:

www.brugge.be www.gent.be/gent/english/index.htm
Waterways of The Netherlands

Vecht river at Vreeland

 Page 2

Nederland; The Netherlands... low country. A (mostly) flat country, about half of it lies
below sea level, protected and reclaimed from the sea by dikes. A land of friendly peo-
ple who speak a difficult language but communicate freely in English with visitors.

While writing this guide I re-

ceived an e-mail comment from
a EuroCanals reader:

“Tom, we would highly recom-

mend cruising Holland as a first
taste of European cruising, be-
cause there are so many won-
derful waterways which are far
better maintained, buoyed and
marked than our waterways in
the USA. It!s a great place to get
your feet wet!” ...John C.

The Netherlands has been a

common starting point for many
canal travelers over the past
thirty years; they went there to
find and purchase a barge or
canal cruiser. But while some of
them left quickly to go south to
France or to return a new vessel
to the UK, others have lingered or
returned soon, drawn to the overwhelming presence of waterways, boats, boatyards,
boat builders and reliable yacht brokers.

Readers of the EuroCanals Guides often contact me to ask for suggestions on a suit-
able spot to winter their boat while they return to their home country, or to select a com-
petent boatyard to make repairs or renovations. Although there are many suggestions
for these services in France and Belgium, it isn!t surprising when they write back to say
“Thanks, but I think I will just return to Holland, there is a place that I know will fill my
needs perfectly”.

(Sea level drawing courtesy of DeltaWorks.org www.deltawerken.com)

The Provinces of The Netherlands Page 3

The Netherlands is often casually called “Holland” but in fact there are twelve provinces.
It happens that the two largest cities,
Amsterdam and Rotterdam, are in
the two provinces named Holland
(Noord and Zuid Holland respec-
tively.) These provinces include most
of the places that draw foreign tour-
ists, hence the common usage of
“Holland”.

Noord Holland has two quite distinct

parts: the bustling metropolitan and
cultural area of Amsterdam and
Haarlem, south of the east-west
Noordzee Kanaal, and the rural pen-
insula stretching north to Den Helder.
With the exception of the interesting
and attractive city of Alkmaar, a
cruise north on the Noord Hollands
Kanaal becomes progressively more
lonesome and desolate. The canal
follows closely alongside the
straight-line highway, although there
are other, smaller canals as an alter-
nate route. The port of Medemblik, a
pleasant town with good restaurants
and a castle, is a favorite IJsselmeer
stopover at the end of the canals.

Zuid Holland includes most of the country!s commercial shipping harbors and industry;
Rotterdam and the surrounding towns are also a good place to search for the purchase
of a barge or cruising vessel. The northern part of the province, halfway between Rot-
terdam and Amsterdam, is prime cruising territory, a land of lakes, small canals and riv-
ers through natural areas and historic towns such as Delft, Gouda and Leiden. It is de-
scribed in the EuroCanals Guide: Heart of Holland.

Zeeland has a very descriptive name, it is a province not far removed from the sea.
Most of the land is protected from the North Sea by dikes and a complex system of
dams. Over 1500 people died when the villages were inundated by the sea during a
storm in 1953. Cruising in Zeeland is more properly in the category of coastal cruising
rather than inland waterway travel; there is a great deal of open water which is tidal,
with just a few canals cutting through islands and peninsulas . There are pleasant
stopover ports at Willemstad and Tholen.
 Page 4
Noord-Brabant is a large province with just a few canals, an area more Belgian than
Netherlands. But it does include the Biesbosch national park, a nature reserve of
marshes and twisting channels, a favorite of those who enjoy mooring to a very private
island amidst wildlife. There are two straight-line (and rather boring) canals as an alter-
nate route to Maastricht.

Limburg is the long narrow strip of land on both sides of the Maas river, squeezed in by
the hillsides of Belgium and Germany. Maastricht, the major city at the southern border,
is well worth a visit. Most canal travelers pass directly through along the river; the river
is picturesque and a enjoyable ride, with several useful ports along the way.

Utrecht is both a city and a province. The city, the home of a major university, is a laby-
rinth of canals and rivers which penetrate the city center. The province includes many
of the lakes, rivers and charming small towns described in Heart of Holland. A cruise
along the east-west Oude Rijn and Hollandse IJssel rivers or north-south on the very
beautiful Vecht river would certainly be a highlight of a visit to The Netherlands.

Gelderland is the largest province, spread across the middle of the country. The water-
ways are the Grote Rivieren, the “Great Rivers” of the Maas (Meuse) and the Waal (Rhine)
and the various branches of the river deltas. The primary rivers flow westward from the
German border to the major cities of Rotterdam and Dordrecht. The IJssel river takes a
solitary twisting line north to the IJsselmeer, a pleasant and popular route between
Friesland and the cruising areas of Belgium and France.

OverIJssel includes a big chunk of land northeast of Gelderland, but the main boating
area is the group of waterways at its western end between Zwolle, Meppel, Steenwijk
and Blokzijl. In the center of this is Zwartsluis, a favorite service and long-term mooring
port for many barge owners.

Flevoland consists of two below-sea-level polders. The town of Urk, on the IJsselmeer,
remains a major fishing port and has become a popular marina stop for cruisers.

Friesland is true boater!s country; the residents have lived and worked by barge for
hundreds of years and some remote farms can still be reached only by boat. A maze of
canals and small channels connect dozens of “meers”, filled with boats of all types dur-
ing the summer months. The main highway for cruisers is the Prinses Margiet Kanaal,
striking northeast from the IJsselmeer towards Groningen (and on to Germany and the
Baltic Sea for some.)

Groningen continues the spread of small waterways across the flat plain of far northern
Netherlands. The town of Delzijl is the departure point from the inland waterways to the
North Sea or Baltic.

Drenthe is the northern section of the relative “highlands” of Gelderland and OverIJssel,
with just a few straight-line canals and a couple of pleasant small rivers.
Page 5
 The Inland Seas & Ports Page 6

Eight hundred fifty years after great floods of the 13th century inundated the land to
form the Zuider Zee, the building of the Afsluitdijk in 1932 separated the saltwater Wad-
denzee from the freshwater IJsselmeer (the river IJssel flows from the Rhine into this
great lake from the
southeast, thus the name
is IJssel-lake.)

Another dike, the Hou-

tribdijk, divides the lake
into a second section,
the Markermeer, named
for the island of Marken.

Close to Amsterdam the

lower corner of the inland
sea is named the IJmeer.
 Polders Page 7
What is a polder? In the 14th and 15th centuries windmills came into use to pump water
from low-lying lands, creating the first polders. Polders are defined as land reclaimed
from the sea, a lake or marshland. Some polders are above sea level and surplus water
is returned to the sea through locks. When the polder lies below sea level, as many do,
the water must be pumped into the canals. This is now accomplished by a combination
of traditional windmills, modern sleek windmills and diesel or electric motor-driven
pumps.

The major polders,

seen as the lighter-
colored areas, are
relatively new. The
Wieringermeer
polder was drained
to connect the is-
land of Wieringen
to the mainland prior
to the completion of
the Afsluitdijk in
1932. Noordoost-
polder was drained
during World War II,
while the big new
island of Flevoland
was created in the
1950!s.

Southwest of Am-
sterdam, the Haar-
lemmermeer polder
includes the land
under and around
Schiphol airport.
 ro Cana Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe
u
E

ls
Waterways of The Netherlands
For full details of these waterways go to Waterways of The Netherlands

NETHERLANDS 121
122

106
107
123 125 Delfzijl
120 124

Canals Leeuwarden 119

Franaker 105 Groningen
Harlingen
Rivers 126
127
104 101 129
102 108 130
103 Grouw 128
109
Sneek 131
Bolsward 99 100 110
98 133
Den Helder
111 113
Heerenveen 117 Assen
Joure 132
96 112 116
97 95
142 147 148 Staveren 94 86
146 149 93
Rutenbrock 134
145
150 92 Steenwijk
88 85
150 87
Enkhuizen Blokzijl
142 Meppel
90 Hoogeveen
91 89 84
83
Alkmaar 151 Urk Zwartsluis
152 39
Ketelhaven Kampen
40
142 32
38
143
47
Elburg Zwolle
141
41 37
140 Amsterdam 46 Epe
142
45 42
32
Haarlem 48
43
35 36
61 Hengelo
59
44 Deventer

58 34
Leiden 60 49
57 Zutphen
Den Haag 56 50 Utrecht
62 32
55
Delft 51 30 Arnhem Doesburg
63 Gouda 31
52 33
66 64 Rotterdam 30
67 54 29
65 19
18
20
Gorinchem
Nijmegen
21
17
9
Dordrecht 24
22
26
29
10
27 1
Willemstad 14
‘S Hertgenbosch 1
13 12
11 5
16 7
15 Tilburg
Tholen 68
7
70 69
Helmond
8

5 Venlo

71
Terneuzen
5
6
GERMANY
4
3
Roermond

BELGIUM 2

Maastricht
© Copyright 2006 EuroCanals 1
Waterway Name of Waterway Waterway Name of Waterway

1 Maas (river) 25 Amer

2 Julianakanaal 26 Steurgat

3 Lateraalkanaal 27 Bergse Maas

4 Kanal Wessem-Nederweert 28 Boven Merwede

5 Zuid-Willemsvaart 29 Waal (Rhine river)

6 Noordervaart 30 Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal

7 Wilheminakanaal 31 Nederrijn

8 Beatrixkanaal 32 IJssel

9 Maas-Waalkanaal 33 Gekanaliseerde Oude IJssel

10 Kanaal van St. Andries 34 Kanaal Zutphen-Enschede

11 Markkanaal 35 Kanaal Deventer-Raalte

12 Mark 36 Zijkanaal naar Almelo

13 Dintel 37 Kanaal Almelo-De Haandrik

14 Roode Vaart 38 Overijsselse Vecht

15 Roosendaalse Vliet 39 Zwarte Water

16 Steenburgse Vliet 40 Vossemeer

17 Spui 41 Drontermeer

18 Oude Maas 42 Veluwemeer

19 Nieuwe Maas 43 Nuldernauw

20 Noord 44 Nijkerkernauw

21 Beneden Merwede 45 Hoge Vaart

22 Wantij 46 Lage Vaart

23 Nieuwe Merwede 47 Larservaart

24 Dordtse Kil 48 Gooimeer

Waterway Name of Waterway Waterway Name of Waterway

49 Vecht (river) 73-80 not shown in this guide

50 Leidse Rijn (river) 81 Ganzendiep

51 Hollandse IJssel (river) 82 Goot

52 Lek (river) 83 Meppelerdiep

53 Merwedekanaal 84 Hoogenveense Vaart

54 Linge (river) 85 Bladderswijk

55 Gouwe 86 Drentse Hoofdvaart

56 Oude Rijn (river) 87 Knl. Beulakerwijde-Steenwijk

57 Grecht 88 Steenwijkerdiep

58 Kromme Mijdrecht 89 Arembergergracht

59 Amstel (river) 90 Zwolse Vaart

60 Aar Kanaal 91 Urkervaart

61 Ringvaart v.d. Haarlemermeer 92 Lemstervaart

62 Rijn-Schiekanaal 93 Linde (river)

63 Delftse Schie 94 Helomavaart

64 Nieuwe Waterweg 95 Schipsloot

65 Calandkanaal 96 Prinses Margriet Kanaal

66 Hartelkanaal 97 Frisokanaal

67 Voedingskanaal 98 Workumertrekvaart

68 Schelde-Rijnkanaal 99 Bolswardervaart

69 Kanaal door Zuidbeveland 100 Geeuw

70 Kanaal door Walcheren 101 Sneekertrekvaart

71 Terneuzen-Gent Kanaal 102 Bolswardertrekvaart

72 Biesbosch (national park) 103 Van Panhuijskanaal

Waterway Name of Waterway Waterway Name of Waterway

104 Haringervaart 128 Oosterdiep

105 Van Harinxmakanaal 129 Pekel Aa

106 Dokkumer Ee 130 Westerwoldse Aa

107 Stroobossertrekvaart 131 Stadskanaal

108 Wijde Ee 132 Musselkanaal

109 Boorne (river) H3,4 133 Aakanaal H2,5

110 Stroomkanaal 134 Rutenbrockkanaal

111 Heerenveense Kanaal 135-139 not shown in this guide

112 Engelenvaart 140 Spaarne (river)

113 Heeresloot 141 Noordzeekanaal

114 Nieuwe Vaart 142 Noordhollandskanaal

115 Opsterlandse Compagnonsvaart 143 Zaan (river)

116 Tjongerkanaal H3,25 144 Omval-kolhorn

117 Appelschaasetervaart 145 Knl. Schagen-Kolhorn H2,9

118 Noord-Willemskanaal 146 Waardkanaal

119 Hoendiep 147 Balgzandkanaal

120 Van Starkeborghkanaal 148 Den Oeversevaart

121 Reitdiep 149 Slootvaart

122 Winsumerdiep H3,0 150 Westfriesevaart

123 Boterdiep

124 Damsterdiep

125 Eemskanaal

126 Winschoterdiep

127 AG Wildervanckkanaal
 ANWB/VVV Waterkaarten Index Page 16
ANWB is the Royal Dutch Touring Club. In addition to maps for highways, they publish
the best and most current navigational charts, for most of the waterways in The Nether-
lands. They may be purchased at bookstores and marinas throughout the country and
especially at the many VVV (tourist information) offices. The charts are identified by a
single letter, as shown on the following index:
A-Groningen & Drenthe
B-Friesland "
C-Friese Meeren
D-Gelderse IJssel
E-Randmeren Flevoland
F- Alkmaar - Den Helder
G-Amsterdam - Alkmaar
H-Hollandse Plassen
I- Vechtplassen
J- Grote Rivieren West
K-Grote Rivieren Midden
L-Grote Rivieren Oost
M-Limburgse Maas
N-Biesbosch park area

Order online direct (with a Dutch bank account) at:

https://webwinkel.anwb.nl/published/webshop/categorien/ww-watersport-waterkaarten.nl.html

Or order online (with a credit card) at: https://www.imraycharts.com/ then Search:

ANWB
! ! !
 Using the ANWB Charts Page 17
Although these charts are entirely in Dutch, a separate "Legend" page is available in
English (you may have to ask for it); it describes the symbols used on the charts.

The important items to look for are the depth of each canal and the clearance required
to pass under fixed bridges. A careful study of the chart will allow you to decide if your
vessel can navigate a particular canal (you will, of course, need to know the dimensions
of your vessel; be sure to take note of the draft [depth], beam [width] and air draft
[headroom].The dimensions on the charts are shown in decimeters, so it is a little tricky
at first. For instance, the Demmerikse Sluis (lock) is labeled "D22 W65 L295"; therefore
it is 2.2 meters deep, 6.5 meters wide and 29.5 meters long. The bridge nearby is la-
beled "H38 W175", or 3.8 meters headroom by 17.5 meters width. What makes it con-
fusing is a headroom labeled H27,5 (with European style decimal point) meaning 27,5
decimeters = 2.75 m.

A bridge marked "BB" (beweegbare brug, or Bascule Bridge) before the dimensions
means that it is a movable bridge that will be opened by a keeper. All bridges are num-
bered and are so marked on the charts, Each canal is marked “DXX" on the chart, stat-
ing the minimum depth along the canal in decimeters (D21=2.1 meters depth). However
the minimum overhead clearance must be checked by the skipper, following the chart
along each route.

The navigable waterways are shown in blue on the charts; some waterways are shown
in yellow, meaning that motorized craft are prohibited without special permission. Char-
ter boat operators may have the necessary permits for certain areas, be sure to get an
understanding which waterways he recommends for your planned route.

The ANWB also publishes an annual "Wateralmanak Vaargegevens" (Waterways Alma-

nac) that covers both Netherlands and Belgium. "Deel 1" (Volume 1) describes regula-
tions and certificate requirements and is required to be kept onboard all vessels. "Deel
2" provides detailed information on waterways, marinas, authority contacts, etc.

Abbreviations used on ANWB charts & almanac:

bb movable bridge" " " " NAP normal Amsterdam water level
be fuel, gasoline" " " " NR normal river water level
die fuel, diesel" " " " OLW agreed low river level
D depth" " " " " PP older water level
GHW mean high water" " " Ro right bank (looking downstream)
GLW mean low water" " " SP dam water level
H height (headroom)" " " W.V. yacht club
kmr kilometer post" " " " IJWP Ijsselmeer winter water level
KP canal water level" " " IJZP Ijsselmeer summer water level
LAT Lowest Astronomical Tide" " MET Central European Time
Lo left bank (looking downstream)" MR mean river water level in summer
 Through Routes Page 18
An unusual feature of the ANWB charts is the Staande Mastroute, available as a sepa-
rate chart. This route is primarily for sailboaters who wish to travel the inland waterways
from the English Channel to the Baltic Sea in order to avoid the rigors of the North Sea.
It shows a series of waterways (with parallel alternates in some locations) that offer un-
limited overhead clearance (there are bridges, of course, but all of them will open.)

South into Belgium: Waterways connect into Belgium only at the far eastern and
western ends of the border. For cruisers headed south to France, it seems to be most
common to use the Maas river. This major river is known as the Meuse in France and in
the Wallonie province of Belgium. It offers a variety of choices and connects through to
all of the French waterways. For those planning to cross the English Channel to the UK
or those who prefer to enter France on a straight line south to Paris, the Hollands Diep
leads into Zeeland and then a choice of canals to either Antwerp or Gent. Antwerp is a
large city with a major emphasis on commercial shipping and so it offers a full range of
services with a rather seedy harbor area. The smaller city of Gent is cut through with
canals and is a pleasant and interesting stopover, as is Brugge, a bit further on to the
west. These cities can lead directly to the coastal canals for a choice of channel-
crossing ports, or cruisers can spend some time visiting the towns of Flanders through
many canals and rivers.

East into Germany: The major entry point into Germany is the Rhine river, a short dis-
tance east of Nijmegen. This is a very busy route for commercial barges; a quieter
choice is available much further north, departing from Groningen. The major canal
eastward is the Eemskanaal, which allows access to the river Ems in Germany. Smaller
canals head directly southeast from Groningen and cross the border on the Ruten-
brockkanaal, for an entirely inland-waterway passage east to Berlin.

Across Friesland: For those in a hurry there is a direct route from the IJsselmeer to
Germany on the Prinses Margriet Kanaal. This becomes the Van Starkenborgh Kanaal
to Groningen, followed by the Eemskanaal to Delfzijl.

South from Friesland: Those headed directly south to France generally use the IJssel
river, a pleasant curving path to the Maas. It can be slow going, as it is upstream when
going south, against a current that can slow a barge almost to a walk; some who have
done it refer to the “slog” up the IJssel. But the route is direct and enjoyable. Others will
want to travel southwest to Amsterdam before going to the cruising waterways of the
Hollands provinces or Utrecht. The fast route is the Ketelmeer and then the wide chan-
nel that forms the southeastern edge of the Flevoland polder, or a slower passage along
the small canals within the polder.

South from Amsterdam: There are several choices here, such as the fast highway of
the Amsterdam-Rijnkanaal or the Ringvaart, but the favorite of many is the river Vecht
from Muiden to Utrecht, then south on the Merwedekanaal to Gorinchem. From there it
is easy to go either east or west on the Great Rivers.
 Links & Resources Page 19
Read This Book! Barge Country; An Exploration of the Netherlands Waterways by
John Liley. Published by Stanford Maritime Ltd, London, 1980. Hardbound, 150 pages.
ISBN 054007179X. Out of print but available from online sources such as amazon.com.
This book is based on John Liley!s cruises in The Netherlands thirty years ago but it is
still enjoyable and informative reading. Times have changed and the details are different
but he paints an excellent picture of waterway travel. This book includes a section on
traveling from France to The Netherlands via the Mosel and Rhine rivers through Lux-
embourg and Germany. It is a sequel to France-The Quiet Way, his earlier experiences
of buying a barge in England and traveling on it throughout the waterways of France.
Both books are highly recommended.

Buying a Barge? Read: Barging in Europe by Roger Van Dyken. Second Edition pub-
lished by Cedarbrook, Lynden, WA, USA, 2005. Softbound, 192 pages. ISBN
0965188418 $22.95 plus $3 shipping from Cedarbrook, 145 E. Cedar Drive, Lynden,
WA 98264 USA or online sources. Roger!s website is www.bargingineurope.com Based
on an American family's experience of buying a Dutch barge and traveling the water-
ways of Holland, Belgium, France and Germany for 18 months, this book is a practical,
hands-on guide to handling a barge on the European waterways. It is primarily about
the barge itself, with details on locating a suitable vessel, selecting the proper equip-
ment, and then navigating through both the easy and the difficult waterways found in
Europe. The information is supplemented with enjoyable anecdotes of relevant experi-
ences encountered by the skipper and crew. It's a step-by-step guide to achieving a
dream. Recommended for anyone thinking of buying or operating a vessel in Europe,
even for those considering a much smaller boat.

Some Web Links: (There are many web links in NL, most are in Dutch; Search by des-
tination town for more information.)

DeltaWorks.org, the Dutch organization responsible for the dams and dikes of Zeeland:
http://www.deltawerken.com/

Boat Brokers:
Sander Doeve, Vlaardingen (Rotterdam) http://www.sanderdoeve.nl/

DeHaan & Broese, Harlingen (Friesland) http://www.dehaanenbroese.nl/

De Elburger Shceepsbemiddeling (Elburg, Gelderland) http://www.esbship.nl/

Personal Cruising Narratives:

Dot & Ian Hart: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/boatingineurope/neth.htm

Martin Waigh: http://www.bargingeurope.com/Travels/Holland.html

Kissen; The Baltic Cruise (Staand Mastroute): http://www.kissen.co.uk/delivery3.asp

 Heart of Holland

Town of Nieuwerbrug;
junction of the Dubbele Wiereke Canal
& the Oude Rijn river
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest

Fine old cities, windmills, bulbfields and water everywhere define the image of
the Heart of Holland. The lakes region of the provinces of Noord Holland, Zuid
Holland and Utrecht includes extensive polder landscapes, canals, rivers, natural
areas, forests and open-water lakes, all connected by easily-navigated waterways.

Zaanse
Schans
Amstel river

HAARLEM Veesp river

AMSTERDAM Ij-Meer
Heemstede
Noordzee Oude Rijn river
Muiden
Haarlemmermeer- Weesp Lek river
polder

Alsmeer Nigtevecht Waal river

Keukenhof
Gardens (Rhine)
Uithoorn Hilversum
Kaag Leimuiden
Vinkeveen Loosdrecht Hollandse Ijssel
Warmond
Oegstgeest Breukelen
Woubrugge Standmast route
LEIDEN
(unlimited height)
Alphen Maarssen
a/d Rijn
Amsterdam-
Rijnkanaal
DEN HAAG Bodegraven Woerden UTRECHT
(The Hague) Other Canals
Monfoort
Oudewater
Gouda Ijsselstein
Delft

Schoonhoven

ROTTERDAM Kinderdijk

DORDRECHT
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Heart of Holland
"Everywhere you look it's like a 17th century Dutch painting. It's all church steeples, windmills, cows and
canals." That was the comment of a passenger on a recent trip along the maze of waterways that make up the
Heart of Holland. She could have also included a comment on the more modern additions: "...boats by the
hundreds and thousands, and vast fields of greenhouses and bulbs."

Surrounded by a ring of major cities and lots of commerce and industry, the region that Dutch tourism and
environmental groups call the "Groene Hart" (green heart) retains a natural and traditional ambience. It includes
portions of the Netherlands provinces of Noord Holland, Zuid Holland and Utrecht, however it is mostly in
Zuid Holland (South Holland) and is often referred to by that name. Although it measures less than 40km in
diameter on a map, it is an ideal location for a cruise of a week or even more. There are so many waterways to
explore and interesting cities and villages accessible from those waterways that a week is hardly enough time.

The Amstel river leads north from

the Groene Hart past charming and
sparkling-clean towns into the very
center of Amsterdam. Thousands
of vessels, from large liveaboard
barges to the smallest rowboat, line
the banks of this and other rivers
and canals (kanaals in Dutch.)

Cruising is pleasant and navigating the waterways is easy in the Heart of Holland. The waterways described in
this issue are used by some commercial traffic but are less hectic than the major canals and rivers that are used
to transport goods from the large ports into inland Europe. The waterways are frequently several meters above
the surrounding land and the fields below are flat, so the view is often panoramic and the feeling is one of
gliding over the countryside. The surroundings are perfectly clean and maintained in the Dutch style; nothing
is left "lying about". Except for major electrical transmission lines, utilities are all underground and there is
little to block the view except the trees along the banks. Elevation changes on the waterways are minor; locks
are usually necessary only at the junctions of canals and rivers. Travelers can enjoy long stretches of
uninterrupted cruising and occasional contact with the usually friendly and always efficient lock keepers.

What happened to the Zuider Zee?

Most of us remember hearing about the Zuider Zee in school, but it's not on the maps and charts of the
Netherlands. Great floods created it in the 13th century, inundating vast areas of land. (Zuid means south;
the Zuider Zee was south of the Dollard and Lauwerszee, other flooded areas.) The Zuider Zee was closed off
in 1932 by a great barrier dam, the Afsluitdijk. This separates the saltwater sound Waddenzee from the fresh-
water lake now known as the IJsselmeer. The IJsselmeer is itself divided by a dike that carries a highway from
Enkhuizen, located on the peninsula north of Amsterdam, to Lelystad on the mainland. The northern section
remains the Ijsselmeer and the southern section is called the Markermeer, named for Marken, a fishing village
located on a point that juts out into nearly the middle of the Markermeer. The southernmost portion of the
Markermeer is known as the IJ-Meer, which flows as the IJ River past Amsterdam and into the North Sea in the
Noordzeekanaal.
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A Cruise through Holland

We started our clockwise circle tour at Kaag, a pictuesque village and center for activities on the water, located
about 15km southwest from Schiphol Airport via the A44 autoroute. Kaageiland (Kaag Island) is one of the last
parts of historical landscape between Amsterdam and Leiden; it is not reclaimed from the sea as most of the area
has been. The name means "Land outside the dikes." Kaag is the starting point or destination for some hotel
barge cruises.

The Hotel Orion, where we started our visit, is a simple modern hotel in the old village of Kaag and is a good
base for walks through the village or across the fields to a traditional windmill. Arrival at the island is by a quick
crossing of the Ringvaart on a 24-hour ferry, which lands near the huge buildings of the Van Lent & Zonen
hipyard. This shipyard is the home of Feadship; through the doors can be seen 100ft+ megayachts under con-
struction (an aerial photo on the wall of the nearby excellent restaurant Tante Kee shows a private yacht of over
200ft just after it has been completed; moored alongside the island, it overwhelms the flat landscape and small
houses.)

The Kagerplassen surrounds Kaageiland on east, south and west sides, an area of lakes, islands and channels
used by watersports enthusiasts of all types. On a recent dismal, rainy Sunday in early October sailboaters,
motorboaters and windsurfers refused to stay ashore. Tour boats travel regular routes, again even in rainy
weather and at night. But if you are on a self-skippered charter boat, there are many secluded coves for a private
anchorage.

Several channels at the northern end of the Kagerplassen connect to the Ringvaart van de Haarlemmeerpolder,
the canal and dike system that rings the polder. The Haarlemmeremeer contains over 44,000 acres, at a level that
averages 4 meters lower than the sea. This major canal passes directly by the city of Aalsmeer and Schiphol
Airport on a direct route to the west side of Amsterdam. An interesting stop at Aalsmeer is a visit to the flower
market located here midway between the hundreds of greenhouses and Schiphol Airport, for quick shipment to
the world. Dutch and foreign buyers make this the largest flower auction in the world, with 14 million sold
daily, 10 billion per year. Visitors can tour the market and watch the activity.

If you are visiting the area for the purpose buying a barge or motorboat, you can look for used boats by driving
along certain canals looking for "Te Koop" signs ("For Sale", but to me it means pay the money and it's yours
"To Keep"), especially along the Ringvaart from Kaag north to Amsterdam. A great many boats are moored here
on both sides of the canal. A recent trip along this route showed at least a dozen signs on boats and barges of all
types. Besides looking for boats, it's a pleasant drive on a narrow road right on the west bank of the canal.

What is a polder?
In the 14th and 15th centuries windmills came into use to pump water from low-lying lands, creating the first
polders. Polders are defined as land reclaimed from the sea, a lake or marshland. Some polders are above sea
level and surplus water is returned to the sea through locks. When the polder lies below sea level, as many
do, the water must be pumped into the canals. This is now accomplished by a combination of traditional
windmills, modern sleek windmills and diesel or electric motor-driven pumps.
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Rather than following the straight-line Ringvaart to

Amsterdam, local charter boat operators recommend
a more scenic approach by leaving the Ringvaart at
Oude-Wetering (just west of Leimuiden) and crossing
along the Drecht to join the Amstel River.

The Amstel follows a twisting path as it flows north

into the center of the city. On both sides of the
elevated waterway, the land drops away quickly to
the level of the fields about five meters below. The
fields are dotted with herds of dairy cows. As you
travel you can look across the absolutely flat fields
and see the spires of churches above the clumps of
trees that mark small villages.

Up ahead are the not-so-pretty apartment house boxes of the suburbs. But alongside the river are many charming
little houses of interesting style, surrounded by trees and landscaping. At various locations along the path that
follows the river there are sculptures, both abstract and realistic. About eight kilometers south of Amsterdam,
the high office towers come into view.

The automobile road follows the west bank of the Amstel; on the east bank is a bike and walking path. The
jachthaven (marina) on the south side of Amsterdam is located in the city of Amstel, a short walk to the rail
station for a train or bus into central Amsterdam. Cruisers can also pass through the canals right in the center
of the city and continue north across the river IJ to moor in a jachthaven. A free ferry runs every 10 minutes to
bring you back across the river to Centraal Station, the best starting point for a tour of the sights of Amsterdam.

A guided tour on one of the many canal tour boats, such as the museumboot, will point out the historical land-
marks and allow convenient access to the museums and neighborhoods. It's possible to tour the canals of
Amsterdam on your own boat, but many canals can be very hectic with commercial and tour boat travel.

Commercial barges come and go in a continuous stream at the Amsterdam-Rijn Kanaal, which joins the IJ on
he eastern edge of the city; this is the primary route for barge traffic into the center of Europe on the Rhine River.
Located adjacent to the canal junction are the huge Oranjesluizen (Orange locks, which are not orange in color
but are named for the House of Orange, the title for the royal dynasty of the Netherlands) that allow traffic to
pass into the IJ-MEER. Each basin in these locks can contain several large barges at each cycle and are daunting
to the average skipper.

Small charter boats and hotel barges will do better to leave Amsterdam on the southeast to join the Vecht River
at Weesp. On the west side of the busy Rijnkanaal at Driemond, a lock allows boats to cross to another lock on
the east side at Weesp. The commercial barges on the Rijnkanaal travel past at relatively high speed and create
a substantial wake, so crossing must be done carefully. Cruising the Rijnkanaal is not recommended; besides the
hazards of large barges, the canal is wide, straight and boring as compared to the smaller canals and rivers.

For travel south to Utrecht, cruisers should follow the Vecht River south. But first, we took a short detour to the
south shore of the IJ-MEER at Muiden.
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Muiden, located at the mouth of the Vecht, is a pleasant town. The river passes through a lock and a lifting bridge
right in the middle of town; yacht brokers, boatyards and several jachthavens are located on the sea-side of the
lock. Boats can moor here on the banks of the river. In fact, cruisers can tie-up almost anywhere along the
waterways and can expect to find food and other services conveniently located nearby.

The Vecht is to Holland what the

Loire is to France; the banks are
lined with 17th century mansions
dating from the Dutch "Golden Age".

West of the large lake Loosdrechtse

Plassen the Vecht winds upstream
from Vreeland to Breukelen; along
with the very pretty villages of
Vreeland, Loenen and Nieuwersluis,
the river is edged by canals spanned
by small bridges, each leading to a
house (some are traditional, some are
modern) with a charming garden.

The lifting bridges over the river in these towns are very interesting; Van Gogh thought so too, his paintings
include many of this type. There are occasional views of the estates and castles, many surrounded by large parks,
some even with moats and guardhouses. Incidentally, Breukelen gave its name to Brooklyn, NY.

Arriving in Utrecht, it's very cozy to find

yourself in the center of this university
town with its many restaurants, cafes and
terraces lining the banks of the Vecht as it
passes directly through the center of the
city.

The Oudegracht is the old canal that

originally connected the Rhine with the
Vecht, now replaced by the Amsterdam-
Rijnkanaal for most traffic. Boats can
readily moor at the quays alongside
vaulted cellars, which are under the shops
and residences that line the streets one
story above the canal. A full day or much
more can be spent here, shopping, dining
and visiting the many sights; these include
the historic churches, museums and old
houses, and also several significant
modern architectural public buildings and
homes.
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The route now turns to the west along the

Hollandse IJssel as it flows from Utrecht to Rotterdam,
winding past green fields and the sleepy ancient towns
of Monfoort and Oudewater to the small city of Gouda.

Gouda is, of course, famous for its cheese. From a

mooring right in the middle of the city visitors can select
cheeses or handicrafts at markets held in the main square.
Located at this square are the very beautiful 15th century
Gothic Stadhuis (city hall) and the magnificent collection
of 70 stained glass windows in St.-Janskerk.

The Hollandse IJssel continues on to the major city of Rotterdam and the world's largest commercial harbor.
Our trip, however, took us north from Gouda into the Groene Hart area for the peace and quiet of natural
surroundings. From a short leg to the east on the Oude Rijn (original Rhine River) we traveled north into the
Nieuwkoopse Plassen. This is a very quiet, unspoiled area of lakes, peatholes and vast fields of reeds. Here,
instead of following along a defined route, cruisers can explore tranquil anchorages and observe unique flora
and wildlife. Circling clockwise brings us back along the Grecht to join the Oude Rijn west of Woerden.

Woerden was an important stronghold on

the Oude Rijn before the network of water-
ways was completed; it was long considered
the key to the rest of Holland.

Traveling west now on the Oude Rijn, we

passed through Bodegraven and Alphen aan
den Rijn. At Alphen we could have turned
north to Woubrugge and the
Braassemermeer. Instead, we continued on
the Oude Rijn to Leiden, an academic city,
home of the oldest university in Holland and
the birthplace of Rembrandt. Leiden is a
walkable city of museums and quiet
neighborhoods of gabled canalside houses.

It's only 8km from here back to our starting point at Kaag, so it is easy to judge the time available for a visit.
There are several routes that would have returned us to Kaag, depending on time schedules and whether our
interests tended more to historic towns and cities or to the beautiful, peaceful natural areas. That is the attraction
of cruising in the Heart of Holland - distances are short, locks are few and choices of destination are varied.
It's canal and river cruising at its best.
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Self-Skippered Boat Charters

"Do visit Holland as a captain on your own ship! You will not regret (sic). Our boats are easy to sail."
A quote from Mr. van de Laan of P. A. v. d. Laan Yachtcharter, in his brochure. They are not only easy to sail,
hey are also well maintained, reliable and clean. You can be confident in the equipment and services provided
by the companies listed below.

English is spoken by all, however it

may be difficult to understand spoken
words on the telephone, so contact by
fax is recommended.

The season varies; some operators

will offer a charter beginning in early
March and extending into November,
others follow the dates when all canals
are open, April 15 through October 15.

Charter boats for self-skippered cruising have a height above water level of 2.40 meters (on some boats it is
necessary to lower the windscreen at the flybridge), which will clear most of the bridges in the Heart of Holland.
This is of course required to pass under fixed bridges, but is also an advantage at lifting bridges by not requiring
a wait for the bridge to open. Bridges owned by the national government will open at no charge, but many others
are owned by the city or town and a travel permit must be purchased on arrival at the first bridge or lock in the
jurisdiction. For instance, the fee for the city of Amsterdam is about 15 euros, good for three days use of all
waterways (including the opening of bridges) throughout the city.

Also consider a "Daytripper" for a pleasant day on a lake such as the Kagerplassen or exploring the canals
through the neighborhoods of Leiden. Olympia Charters offers electric-powered motorboats with a cabin
enclosure or diesel powered, handsome open runabouts that the Dutch call "motorsloepen".

Begemann Boat Charter Olympia Charters

Zoutkeetlaan 3 Veerpolder 61-67
2343 BD Oegstgeest Industrieterrien "Veerpolder"
Tel 062-7073406 fax 071-5176271 2361 KZ Warmond
www.begemann.nl/ Tel 071-3010043 fax 071-3011502
www.olympia-charters.nl/
De Hippert Yacht Charter
Noordeinde 21 P. A. van de Laan Yachtcharter
2451 AE Leimuiden Vrouwgeestweg 71
Tel +33 30-605-5823 Fax +31 30-630-0508 2481 KM Woubrugge
www.ijsselmeer.de/hatenb/ Tel 0172-518113 fax 0172-518641
www.laanyacht.nl/index.htm
Locaboat Plaisance
Loosdrecht
www.locaboat.com/
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Guidebooks & Charts

Although English is spoken by nearly everyone (it is required in the schools), most written materials will be in
Dutch, with occasional English and German translations. It is useful to bring with you the Michelin Green Book
"Tourist Guide, Netherlands" for descriptions of most of the cities and towns that you will pass through.

A useful book to pick up on your arrival is Mit den Motorboot durch das Herz von Holland, distributed at no
charge by Toerisme & Recreatie AVN. It covers the area described in this issue with maps, photos, sightseeing
descriptions and listings of restaurants, shops & markets, banks, post locations, etc. While it is written in Dutch,
the maps are interesting as a general guide and the listings provide useful addresses and telephone numbers.

Waterways charts are published by the ANWB (Royal Dutch Touring Club) and are available at VVV tourist
information offices in cities and many smaller towns. Although these charts are entirely in Dutch, a separate
"Legend" page is available in English (you may have to ask for it); it describes the symbols used on the charts.
The important items to look for are the depth of each canal and the clearance required to pass under fixed bridges.
A careful study of the chart will allow you to decide if your vessel can navigate a particular canal (you will, of
course, need to know the dimensions of your vessel; be sure to take note of the draft [depth], beam [width] and
air draft [headroom] when checking out the boat with the charter base.) The dimensions are shown in decimeters,
so is a little tricky at first. For instance, the Demmerikse Sluis (lock) is labeled "D22 W65 L295", it is 2.2 meters
deep, 6.5 meters wide and 29.5 meters long. The bridge nearby is labeled "H38 W175", or 3.8 meters headroom
by 17.5 meters width. What makes it confusing is a headroom labeled H27.5, meaning 27.5 decimeters = 2.75 m.
A bridge marked "BB" (beweegbare brug, or Bascule Bridge) before the dimensions means that it is a movable
bridge that will be opened. Each canal is marked "Dxx" on the chart, stating the minimum depth along the canal.
The navigable waterways are shown in blue on the charts; some waterways are shown in yellow, meaning that
motorized craft are prohibited without special permission. Charter boat operators may have the necessary permits
for certain areas, be sure to get an understanding which waterways he recommends for your planned route.

The ANWB also publishes an annual "Wateralmanak Vaargegevens" (Waterways Almanac) that covers both
Netherlands and Belgium. "Deel 1" (Volume 1) describes regulations and certificate requirements; "Deel 2" is
more generally available and provides detailed information on waterways, marinas, authority contacts, etc. While
it is written only in Dutch, a glossary of abbreviations and keywords translated into English, German and French
allows it to be interpreted for useful information.

Abbreviations used on ANWB charts & almanac:

bb movable bridge MR mean river water level in summer
be fuel, gasoline NAP normal Amsterdam water level
die fuel, diesel NR normal river water level
D depth OLW agreed low river level
GHW mean high water PP older water level
GLW mean low water Ro right bank (looking downstream)
H height (headroom) SP dam water level
kmr kilometer post W.V. yacht club
KP canal water level IJWP Ijsselmeer winter water level
LAT Lowest Astronomical Tide IJZP Ijsselmeer summer water level
Lo left bank (looking downstream)
MET Central European Time
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Waterway Data
Waterway Depth Height Locks Waterway Depth Height Locks SEASON:
1 Amstel River 2.8m 5.7m 1 8 Oude Rijn R. 1.5m 1.7m 0 All canals open
1a " " 2.8 2.8 1 8a " " " 2.2 open 0 April 15 to October 15
2 Weesper 2.2 2.9 3 8b " " " 2.8 4.25 0
3 Vecht River 2.1 4.0 2 9 Rijn-Schiekan. 2.8 open 0 CHARTS:
3a " " 1.4 2.5 1 10 Ringvaart 2.4 open 0 ANWB Waterkaarten
4 Merwede Kan. 1.7 4.4 2 11 Drecht 1.7 4.0 0 Kaart H,
5 Hollandse Ijssel 1.7 4.7 1 12 Woudewetering 3.1 open 0 Hollandse Plassen
6 Gouwe Kanaal 3.1 3.3 1 13 Grecht 1.7 open 1 Kaart I,
7 Aar Kanaal 2.8 5.6 0 14 NIeuwekoopse 1.5 open 2 Vechtplassen

Zaanse
Schans

IJ
HAARLEM
AMSTERDAM
Heemstede 1a IJ-MEER
Noordzee
2 3 Muiden
Haarlemmermeer-
polder Weesp 3
1 Nigtevecht
Keukenhof Aalsmeer
Gardens
Uithoorn Hilversum
10 Leimuiden
Kaag Vinkeveen 3
1 Loosdrecht
Warmond 11
Oegstgeest 9 Breukelen
12
Leiden Woubrugge 13

8b 7 14 Maarssen
3
Alphen UTRECHT
a/d Rijn 8a 8
DEN HAAG 3a
Bodegraven Woerden
(The Hague)
6
Monfoort
5 4
Oudewater
Gouda
Delft Ijsselstein
5

Lek
Schoonhoven

ROTTERDAM Kinderdijk
Useful Addresses
Handel & Mozart played the Restaurants
ANWB publishes regularly updated magnificent Muller organ.
waterways charts and an annual Kaag:
almanac (see Guidebooks & Charts.) Keukenhof Gardens- world-famous De Twee Wilgen, Julianalaan 66,
ANWB, Antwoordnummer 10, gardens, over 80 acres filled with Tel 0252 545848
2509 XA Den Haag. Tel +31 70 3146151 flowering bulbs Tante Kee, Julianalaan 14,
Tel 0252 544206
Nauticring is an association of marine Kinderdijk- a village with 19 Amsterdam:
supply stores throughout the windmills built in 1740 to create a Dantzig, Zwanenburgwal 15,
Tel 020 6209039
Netherlands. They publish a useful polder; a UNESCO World Heritage Weesp:
map showing all of the significant Site. Hotel Het Hart van Weesp,
waterways and the location of each Herengtacht 34,
store. Available at those stores or Oudewater- Witches’Scale, used to Tel 0294 419353
contact: Nauticring b.a., Postbus 532, weigh suspected witches. Vreeland:
8200 AM Lelystad. Noord-Brabant Pannenkoeken ,
Tel +31 320 724637, fax +31 320 230209 Ringvaart Canal- skirts the Breedstraat 8,
Haarlemmermeer, one of Holland’s Tel 0294 231517
Boat Charter Holland booklet of oldest polders. Loenen:
cruising recommendations with Tante Koosje, Kerkstraat 1,
descriptions of charter boat bases, Rotterdam- the world’s biggest Tel 0294 233201
terms and prices. Boat Charter harbor. Nieuwersluis:
Holland, Eeltjebaasweg 3, ‘t Stoute Soldaatje, Rijkstraatweg 35,
NI-8606 Sneek. Tel 0294 231496
Vecht River- 17th century mansions
Tel +31 515 424617, fax +31 515 423290
near Breukelen. Breukelen:
Slangevegt, Straatweg 40,
Tel 0346 250011
Groene Hart Vaarplanner, a useful Zaanse Schans- a restored Dutch Utrecht:
planning map published by Toerisme village, full of windmills & wooden Bistro Chez Jacqueline,
& Recreatie AVN, Postbus 188, houses; explore a clock museum, clog Korte Koestraat 4,
2250 AD Voorschoten. maker’s shop & a dairy. 15 km Tel 030 231 1089
northwest of Amsterdam on River Oudewater:
HISWA, the Dutch marine industry Zaan Bistro de Drie Engeltjes,
association. HISWA Vereniging, Leeuweringenstraat 56,
Postbus 98, 1135 ZJ Edam Hotels Tel 0348 563381
Alphen a/d Rijn:
Toro Hotel, Koningslaan 64, Bistro de Gelaarsde Kat,
Sites On or Near the Waterways 1075 AC AMSTERDAM Hooftstraat 81, Tel 0172 491401
Tel +31 20 673 7223, fax +31 20 675 0031
Aalsmeer- The Flower Market, where On The Web
Hotel Orion, Julianalaan 19,
brokers buy for Netherlands and the
2159 LB KAAG Tourist guide:
world. Tel +31 252 544442, fax +31 252 544652
www.holland.com
Delft- a city with a historic connection Golden Tulip, Schipholweg 3, Yacht Builders & Services:
to the Dutch East India Company; 2316 XB LEIDEN www.yachting.nl/
birthplace of painter Johannes Tel +31 71 522 1121, fax +31 71 522 6675 Yacht Brokers & Services:
Vermeer; home of Delft blue porcelain. www.hiswa.nl/
Smits, Vredenburg 14, Self-Skippered Boats:
Gouda- famous for cheese and the 3511 BA UTRECHT 20 charter companies
cheese market in the main square; 15th Tel +31 30 233 1232, fax +31 30 232 8451 www.topofholland.com/
century Gothic Stadhuis; St. John’s
Church with 70 stained glass windows. An interesting personal account of a
cruise through the Heart of Holland,
Haarlem- Frans Hals museum, with many photos, is “A Dutch Boat
collection of Old Masters; St. Bavo’s Ride” at
Cathedral on the main square, where www.circuit-rider.com/boattrip_1.htm
 roCan Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe
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Buying a Barge
in The Netherlands

By Tom Sommers June 2002

Click on Photo to Enlarge A "drive-by" find, barge for sale by owner

Click on Photo to Enlarge A brokered barge for sale in Harlingen

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CONTENTS:

Page 3. Buying a Barge in The Netherlands

4. A Suggested Itinerary

5. Map of locations mentioned in this report

6. The Perfect Barge

7. Considerations of Type and Size

8. Barge Types

9. Preplanning Your Trip

10. Books

11. Start Thinking Metric (and Euro)

12. Locations; where to look

13. Brokers, Notaries and Registration

14. Evaluating a Broker

15. Surveyor/Notary, Registration, Tax

16. Dutch Terms; a glossary related to barge buying

20. List of Boat Brokers

22. List of Boat Builders

23. List of Charter Boat Bases

24. List of Surveyor & Notaries

25. Navigation Guidebooks & Charts

26. Boat Shows in The Netherlands

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BUYING A BARGE IN THE NETHERLANDS By Tom Sommers June 2002

Here’s a simple statement: If you are convinced that you want to buy a barge to cruise in Europe,
or just look semi-seriously until you learn more about it, then The Netherlands is the best place to do so,
without question.

I have seen many e-mail messages on Internet message boards that tell of searches in England,
France and Belgium without success, then after looking in the type of places in Holland and Friesland that
are described in this report, a suitable vessel was found, in good condition and at a good price. One of
these messages is quoted:
“There are thousands of boats for sale. Prices are very negotiable. Variety is enormous, and the condition
of boats is generally excellent.”

First, a bit of geography; although commonly called Holland, the country of The Netherlands
consists of two regions of interest to barge buyers: Holland, north and south of Amsterdam, and Friesland,
northeast of the inland seas (Waddenzee and Ijsselmeer.) There is a third, much smaller region that might
also be visited, the province of Limburg, which cuts a finger south into Germany and Belgium along the
Maas river. To give you an idea of the small scale of the country, I was told by a Dutchman that the
country of France is twenty-two times larger than The Netherlands.

The obvious place to start is to fly into Amsterdam. You may want to spend a day or two there
seeing the sights and walking along the many canals and the Amstel river, looking at the many hundreds
of barges moored there. But not many barges are actually found and purchased right in Amsterdam. To
seriously search for a barge, you will need a rental car to travel to other locations, sometimes a tiny port in
one of the other cities or in a small town that may be the home of the right barge for you.

You will probably have a plan of action in mind (see Preplanning A Trip, Page 9) and certain
places to go. But be flexible and alert as you travel, there are boats almost everywhere. It’s great fun to
see them as you go by and it’s likely that some may cause you stop for a better look. Don’t hesitate to
poke around the moorings and docks, respecting any security limits, and when you find someone aboard
an interesting boat a conversation may lead to an onboard tour. These impromptu visits may not result in a
purchase, but will be fun and you will learn about different types of boats and interior design ideas (some
in the “let’s not do that” category.)

In Holland there is a widespread 'understanding' of boats, compared to say France. There are lots
of shipyards, engineers, mechanics, suppliers, etc. It seems that every village has a shop that sells boat
repair items. Work is cheap, supplies are easy to come by. If you want to do things to the boat that you
buy, keep it in Holland for this time.

However, a caution: there are a lot of done-it-themself project ships in Holland. Try to establish
the level of knowledge and competence of the do-it-yourselfer as you talk with them. Some of these
vessels will be excellent, such as the tjalk currently featured on the EuroCanals website Home page. It
was converted from a working barge by a retired commercial captain and has been carefully planned and
perfectly executed. Other barges may have excellent work done by the owner, but his layout and design
ideas may seem somewhat strange. Still others may simply show shoddy work and should be quickly left
behind, there are plenty of others with good work done.
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You should visit and interview several brokers (see Working with Brokers, page 13.) When you
visit the major barge brokers you won’t find a marina filled with barges, they are too big for that. They are
moored throughout the country and you may be taken there by the broker or you may search them out on
your own. But there are also many brokers displaying cruisers, trawlers, sailboats and other vessels at
their own docks, sometimes with hundreds of boats for sale.

A SUGGESTED ITINERARY

I offer here a specific plan that I would follow to get the broad picture of the range of vessels,
brokers and locations available in The Netherlands, from a base in or near Amsterdam.

Day 1 – Arrive in Amsterdam, walk the canals and river banks in the city.

Day 2 – Drive south to the office of Sander Doeve in Vlaardingen, near Rotterdam. Meet Sander
and his son Ijtse and spend time looking through the binders of listings to get a feeling for the
many vessels that are available. If you see some that are interesting, Ijtse will ussually be happy to
arrange for an immediate viewing.

Day 3 – Drive southeast to Loosdrecht and spend the day dropping-in at some of the many brokers
with docks full of boats on display.

Day 4 – Drive north to Harlingen and Sneek. Walk and drive around the canals in Harlingen and
then meet the brokers at De Haan & Broese and look through their listings. Then drive to the new
marine commercial area on the southeast side of Sneek to visit a few of the many businesses
located there.

Day 5 – Now you have a feel for where to go next; select a broker and work with them, or
continue on your own.
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Searching the Netherlands

NETHERLANDS
Shown on this map are some of Leeuwarden
the well-known locations in NL Franaker Groningen
Harlingen
for a barge or canal cruiser search.
Bolsward Grouw
Use it in conjunction with a highway Sneek
or rail map as you travel. Heerenveen

Staveren

Steenwijk
Blokzijl
Enkhuizen Meppel

Urk Zwartsluis
Kampen

Elburg Zwolle
Ijmuiden Amsterdam

Loosdrecht

Rotterdam
Vlaardingen

Gorinchem
Nijmegen
Dordrecht

GERMANY
Roermond
Maasbracht

BELGIUM

© Copyright 2006 EuroCanals

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THE PERFECT BARGE

That is a risky title for this page, for perfection is in the eye of the beholder, and in the case of
barges that view is often modified after a few months living aboard. But I will go ahead and describe a
barge that offers advantages in many situations:

• First, the dimensions;

Length: 20 to 22 meters, certainly not more than 24 meters
Beam: 4.0 to 4.8 meters, certainly not more than 5.0 meters
Draft: 1.0 to 1.4 meters, certainly not more than 1.8 meters
Height: 2.7 to 3.0 meters, certainly not more than 3.4 meters
• Steel hull; perhaps that goes without saying, it’s part of the description of a barge.
• Wheelhouse with adequate seating and table space; this is an area that will be in constant use
while traveling and is often the center of activity while moored. Plenty of large windows on all
sides, with movable curtains if desired for privacy. And an attractive wood structure is is
important for appearance.
• Portholes, windows and overhead hatches that open for ventilation; you may not notice this on
your first inspection, but many Americans in particular are accustomed to open windows, whereas
many Europeans are not and do not install opening windows.
• Central hot-water heat through radiators in all living quarters. A diesel-fired boiler is desirable.
Many barges also have a wood or diesel-fired stove in the lounge, both for additional heat and for
aesthetics.
• Central or room-by-room air conditioning, you won’t think that this is a frill when it gets too
warm onboard, even in the northern areas.
• Interior access to all cabins; some barges will have fore and aft cabins that can only be accessed
from the open deck, not so convenient in bad weather or even in a port where you would not have
privacy from neighbors. Worse yet, some will have a sleeping cabin with no WC facilities,
requiring a trip on deck.

The most common barge travelers will be a couple, sometimes inviting guests aboard for a few
days or a week. Occasionally the group is a family, a couple with children. It is very rare to see a single
person traveling on a barge (but not so rare if the barge is moored permanently), a barge would be quite a
handful without at least one crewperson to handle the lines when locking and mooring. Whichever is your
situation, think carefully about the accomodations that you will need. Obviously there needs to be a bed
for each person, preferably in closed chambers rather than on the dinette or sofa in the lounge, although
those can be considered for short-term use. Pay special attention to bath, shower and toilet arrangements.
It’s very useful when these facilities are separated, with perhaps a washbasin in the sleeping cabin and
other rooms for the WC-toilet and shower and/or bathtub. And be certain that there are enough bathroom
facilities for the number of anticipated passengers.

The books that are listed in this report (see Books, page 10) all include further discussions on the
details of selecting a barge that is perfect for you.
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CONSIDERATIONS OF TYPE & SIZE

Spend some time thinking about where you want to travel on your new barge and select a size and
type that is suitable for all of those areas. Here are some of the limiting parameters that might prevent you
from going someplace that you would like to go:
• Canal Dimensions – h t is applies to the ma ximum length and beam of vessel that can be
accomodated in the smallest locks on the canal, and also to the maximum height which can pass
under the lowest bridge, especially the stone arch bridges found on many of the most attractive
waterways. Draft is very important, not just for travel along the waterway but also for the ability to
moor in shallow places. (Limiting dimensions for many waterways are listed in the EuroCanals
Guides for individual waterways and are summarized in the special issues “The Waterways of
France, ...England, ...Germany.)
• Ports, marinas, other mooring areas – It is always necessary to consider whether a given mooring
space will be adequate, in terms of length, beam and draft. Also, cost should be considered. Many
mooring places in Europe are free, but when it is necessary to stop at a paying port, the cost will
almost always be prorated by length.
• Regulations – in most countries of Europe, regulations require more strict inspection and more
specific required design features on vessels 24 meters and longer. The captain will also need to be
tested and certified to operate these vessels. In France, licensing of the captain is required on
vessels above 15 meters, although to less-stringent requirements than those for the larger vessels.
Be aware that a barge longer than 24 meters will require some specialized training followed by
testing and certification. In practice, skippers are rarely asked to show their credentials and many
barges are operated without these certificates, but that’s only a good idea if you never have an
incident with another boat or a canal structure.
• Cost – It is in general true that cost increases on a per-meter basis, so obviously bigger vessels will
cost more to purchase, renovate, insure and operate.

You should also keep an open mind and consider vessels other than a Dutch barge. Unless you plan to
live aboard full-time, perhaps a smaller canal cruiser would offer advantages. Many barges are very big.
The Dutch build a large number of boats in various designs, with steel, wood or fiberglass hulls, that can
go places where larger barges can’t go and cost much less, as well as being much quicker to resell with
little or no loss from the buying price.

An article was submitted to EuroCanals by a writer who purchased a steel cruiser in Holland of 8.3
meters length and 3.0 meters beam. The family of three cruised comfortably through Holland, Belgium
and France for six months and then sold the boat almost immediately in Holland for a price higher than
the original purchase. For short-term ownership or to try out the lifestyle, this option might be a good one.

There are canal cruisers for sale almost everywhere in Holland. They can be seen at brokers’ docks
throughout the country. Another source is to contact the rental boat operators for boats that they are
retiring from service. While at first thought you might think that such boats have been overused or
damaged, actually they are often better maintained than privately owned boats, because these boats have
to be turned over to a new renting group every week or two and they are thoroughly cleaned and serviced
by a professional crew each time. The disadvantages are that the design often is based on maximizing the
number of bunks and that the boats are not insulated for cold weather service, although most do have
cabin heating systems.
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BARGE TYPES

Ex-bereops
This is a broad term, meaning ex-professional, that covers all vessels that were previously in commercial
or government service. For barge buyers, that is often the category in which we are looking, so on a
website such as www.yachtselect.nl/, select that category on their search page.

Beurtschip or Beurtscheepje
The word beurt means “in turn”; these commercial barges operated along scheduled routes in Freisland,
delivering freight. They often did not have a sleeping cabin and were smaller than the barges operating on
rivers and larger canals. They are popular as conversions to a private cruising barge, their smaller size is
often ideal for a cruising couple. The overall look of the barge, however, is influenced by the design of the
cabin superstructure that has been added; some are graceful, others are boxy and unattractive. Beurtschips
are generally 24 meters or less in length.

Dutch barge
This is now a generic term, including the other types listed here and now even the many replicas being
built as new construction. But it can also be specifically applied to the barges which operated on rivers
and larger canals and are above 24 meters length.
Luxemotor
This elegant style of Dutch barge is very popular as hotel barges and private cruising vessels. They are
noted for their sharp bow, upswept stern and gracefully curving sheer line. While other types of Dutch
barges were originally sail-driven, the Luxemotors were built to be motor boats. The name comes from
the relatively luxurious and well fitted-out cabin built behind the wheelhouse. The length of these barges
ranges from 15 to 30 meters.

Tjalk
The tjalk (pronounced “chalk”) is another very popular Dutch design. It has broad, blunt bow and stern
shapes, maximizing internal volume for a given length and beam. Along with the hull shape, like a Dutch
wooden shoe, note that the rudder usually rises to the top of the stern rail, probably a tradition dating from
tiller steering. They are generally available as 16 to 24 meter vessels.
Aak
A pointed bow and swept-back stem usually mean that the vessel is one of the many regional designs of
Aak built in The Netherlands. There are a great variety of styles, some of which appeal to individual
private owners, but they are not often included on a buyer’s shopping list.

French Peniche
These large barges are not usually available in The Netherlands. They were built to completely fill a
standard French Freycinet-scale lock, at 38.5 meters long by 5.1 meters wide. The bow and stern are both
blunt and broad-shouldered. Some peniche have been converted into spacious hotel barges and many are
permanently moored as live-aboard homes. They are not common as a private cruising barge because of
their large size and not-so-elegant lines.
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PREPLANNING YOUR TRIP

Since you received this report over the Internet, that means that you already have an excellent doorway to
gather information before you travel to The Netherlands. Surf the web to view the listings displayed by
brokers on their websites. You might find the perfect vessel for you, but more importantly you will see
the range of types, sizes and prices, so you will be much better informed when you arrive in The
Netherlands. When available, all contacts listed in this report include an e-mail address and a website.
They can also be quickly accessed from the EuroCanals website on the Links pages.

Websites of hotels and tourism offices will offer useful assistance with trip planning.

We have listed several boat shows that may coincide with your travel plans; again use the Internet
to check their current schedule (Links are provided on the EuroCanals website).

This report is intended to give some advice about where to go and how to start looking for a barge,
but cannot cover all of the mechanical and design features that you will need to consider before you make
a decision. For those, read the suggested books (see Books, page 7). Then prepare a means to keep notes
on each vessel that you visit. The Barge Buyer’s Handbook contains a useful check list; you may want to
add more items of your own to the list, then prepare several copies on which you can write notes as you
go.

Schuttevaer, the weekly newspaper of the Dutch maritime industry, is worth picking up on a
newstand in The Netherlands or online at www.schuttevaer.nl. There will be advertisements from some of
the brokers and perhaps from private sellers. But the printed newspaper and the website are both written
in Dutch only, and the focus is more on the commercial trade than personal barges. It will be interesting to
take a look and you may be lucky, but don’t expect to find barges there to pursue.

Bring your camera and use it often. A digital is now the way to go, especially if you take a laptop
computer and download the photos into it. Take photos of everything, even small details, you can review
the photos later to help with your decision. Make a folder in your computer for the photos of each vessel.

You will need a good highway map of the country; these are available worldwide, so it will help
your planning if you obtain one before your trip and mark on it the major locations that you will visit (the
sketch map included with this report will help in finding them on your map.)

A mobile telephone will be very handy for scheduling and confirming visits. If you have a GSM
phone that operates on the 900 & 1800 mHz bands, bring it with you and purchase a prepaid SIM card
that will furnish a connection and a telephone number in The Netherlands. Find a mobile phone specialist
shop on your arrival; refill cards for additional time can be purchased almost anywhere, but for the
primary setup you will need a specialist, which are prevalent in the cities and larger towns. If you do not
already own a suitable phone, you will be able to rent one, check with your car rental company. For more
information on GSM phones, go to www.rentcell.com/buy-international-phone-order.htm

You can ignore all of the above and just show up, as I did on my first trip, but I had little idea of
where I should be going and wasted a lot of time. Preparing for the trip will make it much easier and
enjoyable, and more likely to result in a successful conclusion.
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BOOKS

I once recommended one of the following books to a man that had asked me some questions about buying
a Dutch barge, and his reponse was “Yes, I know of it but I thought it would be redundant.” But he was
asking me questions that were answered in that book. He had already spent well over $100,000 on his
barge; couldn’t he spend just another $20 to get the knowledge that he needed? So there is my advice, buy
all of these books, and others if you find them.

The Barge Buyer’s Handbook, written and pub lished by DBA-The Barge Association
A step by step guide to buying a barge
DBA Publications, Revised and Updated Edition Spring 2001. 8 ” X 5 13/16”, 114 pages. £14.95 (about
$23)
Purchase info available from www.barges.org/html/shopping.html

Written by the members of DBA (an association of Dutch Barge enthusiasts based in England), this
handbook covers the subject very thoroughly and includes a buyer’s checklist which can be very helpful.
It is an essential guide.

Barging in Europe, by Roger van Dyken

Cedarbrook, Lynden, WA, 1997. Softbound, 8 1/8”H X 5 ” W, 160 pages. Black & white photos. About
$20. New edition pending, order direct from roger@bargingineurope.com Available used from
http://www.amazon.com/.
Based on an American family’s experience of buying a Dutch barge and traveling the waterways
of Holland, Belgium, France and Germany for 18 months, this book is a practical, hands-on guide to
handling a barge on European waterways. It is almost entirely about the barge itself, with details on
locating a suitable vessel, selecting the proper equipment, and then navigating through both the easy and
the difficult waterways found in Europe. It’s a step-by-step guide to achieving a dream. Recommended
for anyone thinking of buying or operating a vessel in Europe, even if the eventual selection turns out to
be a much smaller boat.

The European Waterways, by Marian Martin

A Manual for First Time Users
Adlard Coles Nautical, London, 1997. Softbound, 9 ” H X 6 1/8” W, 168 pages. Black & white photos
and drawings. About $20. Available from http://www.amazon.com/.
A very thorough guide to the rules & regulations of European waterways, along with good
descriptions of handling small boats. An excellent chapter is “Buying an Inland Waterway Boat”.
Interesting descriptions of the five major ports used by UK boaters to enter the European waterways
system.
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START THINKING METRIC (AND EURO)

The vessel descriptions that you will be reading on the internet or on paper will all be in meters, so it will
be a lot easier to get some metric pictures in your head rather than trying to convert to feet & inches as
you go, although a pocket calculator will be helpful.

Conversion Factors: To get meters, multiply feet by .30

To get feet, multiply meters by 3.28

Length:
Some frequently-seen boats & barges: 9 meters = 30 ft (approx)
12m = 40 ft
15m = 50 ft
20m = 66 ft
24m = 79 ft
38m = 125 ft*

Beam:
Some frequently-seen boats & barges: 3.5 meters = 11.5 ft
4.0 m = 13.1 ft
4.5 m = 14.8 ft
5.0 m = 16.4 ft*

*Here you can see the point made previously: a French Peniche is 125 feet long and 16 feet wide, a
substantial vessel.

Draft:
A man two meters tall is over 6’6”; a more average male at 5’10” is 1.8 meters. So if the vessel has a draft
of 1.0 meter (see The Perfect Barge, page 3) the average man standing in water at that depth would be wet
to just above his waist.
Air draft (clearance above water) is a little harder to visualize (and to measure), but published figures
should be checked carefully by actual measurement before making an offer on a barge; almost every
barge owner can relate a story of damage to the rails or wheelhouse when traversing an arched bridge or
tunnel.

Money:
Prices are now shown in € (Euros) and the exchange rate varies daily. Some brokers have an exchange
rate calculator on their websites, or you can get a quick calculation done for you at www.xe.com/ucc/
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LOCATIONS: WHERE TO LOOK

The Netherlands is rated by many boaters as the best country in Europe to search for a barge or
cruiser. Distances are short; it’s only about 100 kilometers (62 miles) from Amsterdam to Harlingen, even
though on the map it looks like it’s way up there in northern Friesland. And in the other direction,
Rotterdam is 55 kilometers to the south. So it’s possible to move about quickly to follow-up on a possible
barge.
But of course that’s on the autoroutes, which are plentiful and direct. Don’t forget to get off and
drive slowly along the bank of the Amstel River (but watch your mirrors, the locals won’t be driving so
slowly), watching for interesting barges and mooring spots. And also along the river Vecht from Utrecht
to Muiden; you won’t see as many potential purchases here, but you will certainly see one of the most
beautiful areas of Holland. An especially good route starts near Leiden; turn off the A44 at Exit 3 to Kaag,
find the narrow road that parallels the Ringvaart canal and follow it north toward Amsterdam. You will
see an amazing number of boats of all sizes and types, and usually some with “Te Koop” signs.

Amsterdam Perhaps surprising is the fact that there are not many boat brokers in the city of Amsterdam;
I have put one broker, Inter Ocean, on the list in this report, but I have no direct experience with them.
The main thing to do in Amsterdam is to walk the canals and the Amstel River, looking at the thousands
of barges that are fixed-mooring liveaboards or a few itinerants. At the least you will see a wide variety of
barge types and interesting details. You will see occasional for sale signs (usually “Te Koop”) and may
want to contact the owner. And if you see someone aboard an interesting barge, don’t hesitate to speak
with them if you get the chance.

Rotterdam This city is one of the world’s largest seaports and a busy commercial area. There are many
barges moored here that are for sale, but they are scattered in small dock areas and often behind a locked
gate, so they are not easy to find. A broker will know which ones are right for you to see and how to find
them. The broker Sander Doeve, based in Vlaardingen (adjacent to Rotterdam on its western edge on the
north side of the river, the Nieuwe Maas), is very familiar with the local area and quite willing to drive
you around, a difficult task on your own.

Loosdrecht This small town between Amsterdam and Utrecht is a major marine center, there are dozens
of marinas, brokers and support services concentrated here. It is not a barge area, however; it is focused
on motoryachts, cruisers and sailboats. If those are on your list to be seen, then it will be a day well spent.
Some of the brokers here will have barges in their listings, but you will not see them as you walk the
docks. Several brokers here are included on the Boat Brokers page.

Harlingen The old harbor at Harlingen is a classic Dutch port, on the northern tip of the Waddenzee, not
far from easy access to the North Sea. It’s a charming and interesting town to visit and is a must-stop for
barge hunters. One of the major brokers for barges, De Haan & Broese, is located right at the inland end
of the harbor. There are many barges moored along the waterways in and near the town, so take a drive
around. And it’s also a center for renovation of a barge.

Sneek Located on the western edge of the Friesland lakes region (and not far inland from Harlingen),
Sneek has developed over the past few years into a center for small boat builders, brokers, holiday boat
rentals and suppliers of boat equipment. It should be included on you travels into Friesland. But don’t
expect to see many barges, the boats here are canal cruisers and watersports boats.
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BROKERS, NOTARIES & REGISTRATION

Makelaars & Bemiddelaars

Jachtmakelaars & Bemiddelaars: these are the professional yacht brokers and agents. There is a
distinction between the two terms, as in “Broker” and “agent”. The Makelaars are similar to Realtors in
the USA, certifying that they adhere to certain professional standards. They may describe themselves as
“Sworn and Certificated Yacht-Ships Broker.” Some brokers, recognizing the importance of business
from English-speaking clients, simply call themselves Yacht Brokers. Others use the term
Scheepsmakelaar (ship broker), referring to professional barges rather than pleasure boats.
Either makelaars or bemiddelaars will act as an agent between buyer and seller, and should clearly
state that the seller will pay the commission due, not the buyer. If you use a broker, you do not have to
follow the procedures that he dictates. Set your own pace and contract terms.
Brokers who are HISWA members use a standard HISWA contract. Good agents will have these
in English and Dutch. The contract is also recognised by the notaries and the Kadastres (government
office that registers owership titles) because they see a lot of them. The contract is interesting in that it
sets out how stage payments are organised, and what happens if the survey suggests work is to be done.
Here is how the process should work, after the broker has shown you a satisfactory vessel and you
are ready to make an offer:

• You and the broker jointly fill in or modify the statements on a standard offer form.
• The offer will be contingent on a survey (at the buyer’s expense, including the cost of
hauling the vessel out for hull inspection) and other special requirements that you may feel
are needed.
• The offer will state that the present owner shall deliver the vessel in the water, ready to
sail, with all technical equipment functioning properly.
• The broker will present the offer to the present owner and negotiate the contract price and
terms.
• The broker will prepare a memorandum of agreement; when you sign this agreement, you
will be asked to transfer 15% of the agreed price to an escrow account in the broker’s bank.
• The surveyor, that you have selected and will pay for, will then inspect the vessel and issue
a report. If there are any defects, the surveyor and the broker will work with the present
owner to find a solution, which may invlove the correcting of the defect or an adjustment
in price.
• When all is resolved, you will pay the broker the total balance of the price.
• If the defects found in the survey are not corrected to your satisfaction, you may withdraw
the offer and the broker will refund your deposit.
• Registration and insurance should be arranged through the broker or other parties so that
they will both be accomplished concurrent with your final payment and possession of the
vessel.
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Evaluating a Broker
You will of course get your own feelings about whether you are comfortable with a particular
broker, but here are a few things to look for:

Do they treat you as a valued prospective customer right from the start?

Do they provide binders with vessel descriptions and photos that you can look through to see the
range of their listings?

Are the vessel descriptions thorough and complete, or just the basic dimensions and a brief
commentary? (Sander Doeve, for instance, furnishes a 44-item description, along with his own
comments and photos.)

Is the broker willing, even eager, to arrange for you to visit some vessels at your convenience?

At an early stage, you should ask to see their standard contract forms (if not in English, be
cautious) and discuss details such as surveyors, notaries, registration, insurance. Do the answers
sound useful and believable?
Test Drive?
You will rarely have the opportunity for a casual test drive of a boat, because you will usually be
seeing the boat with a broker and only the owner can operate the boat (due to both familiarity and
insurance restrictions.) Even when the boat is on display at the broker's dock it is usually there on
consignment and is not the broker's property. But if you find a vessel that you are pretty serious about, it
wouldn't hurt to ask if the broker could arrange it.

An exception would be when you are dealing directly with the owner. In many cases they will be
proud of their boat (if they aren't, it's probably one that you shouldn't consider anyway) and will be happy
to show it off on the water. I have had such experiences, even when I was just touring around and not
seriously looking to buy a boat.

But a written offer it should include a section stating that the sale is contingent on inspection by a
surveyor (this is necessary for insurance purposes, as well as your own protection.) If the boat is in the
water, it must be moved somewhere to be hauled out for exterior hull inspection, and that would be an
opportunity for you to request (or insist on in writing) a brief test drive.
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Surveyor/Notary
The broker may recommend a surveyor but you are free to choose your own and specify what you
want surveyed (the basis survey may include only the hull and steering, with a check on the engine). You
may want the gas system, electric system, heating system, water system, etc, checked out. In addition to
the survey, it may be a good idea to have these systems checked and certified by local plumbers,
electricians and the like, who are more familiar with these specialties.

Choose your own notary if you wish and get him to set up the form of contract that you want. You
do not have to have a contract that commits you unless the defects found on the survey are so major that
the boat is useless. You can specify what defects that you want the seller to pay for. The broker will
usually provide a standard contract.

Registration
The vessel that you buy must be registered, but not necessarily in The Netherlands. The
regulations state that you must be a resident of the country in which you register the vessel. However,
many brokers and notaries will offer their address as your own for the purposes of registration and
insurance; discuss this as you are writing the contract. This is commonly done, but it is a gray area that
circumvents the regulations.
Another route that is frequently done is to register or “document” the vessel in your home country.
The bureaucracy will need certain documents, but they don’t need to see the vessel physically. In the
USA, this is done by the US Coast Guard. Information on that subject can be found at
www.uscg.mil/hq/g-m/vdoc/nvdc.htm
To make the job easier, one private company that can handle the paperwork in the US is at
www.boatdocumentation.com

BTW/VAT (Value Added Tax)

In Europe the VAT (called BTW in The Netherlands) can be as high as 20+%, so it is a major
consideration. The details of the application of the tax laws are very complex and will vary in each case,
depending on the tax history of the vessel that you are considering and on your own nationality. You
should discuss this with your broker and your notary before any contract is signed.
In general, the thing to keep in mind is that the tax must be paid only at the first time of sale. So a
new boat will be taxable, but a used boat will not. But in the latter case you should obtain documentation
of the tax status of that vessel; you will need it if you later sell it. Any equipment that you add to the
vessel after you purchase it is taxable, so again make sure that you understand the rules and retain suitable
documentation.
Foreign nationals may be eligible for a rebate of tax paid if they remove the vessel from the
European Union within a certain time period.
Further comments on this subject are beyond the scope of this report, but it is an important issue
that you should thoroughly research and understand for your particular situation, before you make a
commitment to purchase.
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DUTCH TERMS

Although English is widely spoken in The Netherlands, it is not universal. You will often need to
translate phrases on signs, maps and brochures. You won’t find some of these words in a Dutch-English
dictionary, at least not in the one that I bought on my first trip there (and it’s a thick one, not a tourist’s
pocket guide.)

So on the next pages you will find a table of Dutch terms as related to buying a vessel in The
Netherlands. Since a large segment of potential buyers is from neighboring Germany, sometimes the
Deutsch word is used, and that has been included in the table. Some words are the same as used in France,
such “occasion” for second-hand, also translated as opportunity or bargain.

It’s fun to try to guess at some words, for instance once you know that brug means bridge, then
you might guess that a vaste brug is a bridge made vaste (fastened) to the land, a fixed bridge. But be
careful, because you can get carried away with words like jacht; although jachthaven is obvious for
marina, a jachthuis is not a yacht house, rather it is a hunting lodge. And fiets doesn’t mean your feet, it
means bicycle, so a fietspad, something you will see often along the canals and rivers, is a bike path. You
can use your feet to walk on it, but listen for bicycle bells.

Another of my favorite terms is sleepbote, you might guess it’s a boat to sleep on, but no, it’s a tug
that pushes another boat into a “sleep” (dock). And when driving, you will sometimes see a sign that says
“Let Op”. That means pay attention, or take notice, but I always thought it meant Let Up on the gas pedal
for a speed bump or pedestrian crossing, which is exactly what is intended.

The glossary on the next three pages is my own, developed from my observations and research,
but it is not intended to be either complete or scholarly, just a guide that should prove useful.

The grid on the last page has been extended so that you can add other terms as you come across
them.
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DUTCH DEUTSCH (German) ENGLISH (USA version)

Aak A type of Dutch barge (many variations)
aanbod offer, list of boats for sale
aankoop purchase, acquisition
achter/achterschip achtern/hinten aft
achtersteven achtersteven stern
afmeer anlegen mooring
aluminium aluminium aluminum
anker anker anchor
ankerplaats ankerplatz anchorage
bakboord backbord port (left) side
batterij batterie battery
benzinemotor benzinmotor gas engine
bereikbaarheid erreichbarkeit how to get there
bereops professional (ship)
Beurtschip A type of working ship, from Friesland
beweegbare brug (BB) bewegliche brucke Bascule bridge, moveable bridge
bijboot, jol beiboot, dingi dinghy
bijzonderheden einzelheiten particulars, details
binnenwateren binnengewasser inland waterways
binnenboordmotor innenbordmotor inboard motor
binnenvaartschip barge, inland waterways ship
boeg bug bow
boegschroef bugschraube bowthruster
boot Boot boat
bouwjaar baujahr, gebouwd year of construction
breedte breite beam
BTW mehrwertsteuer VAT (Value Added Tax)
buitenboordmotor aussenbordmotor outboard motor
brug brucke bridge
Cadastre Ship’s Registry Office
casco bare hull, no interior or superstructure
centrale verwarming zentralheizung central heating
deckshuit barge
dieptemeter echolot depthsounder
doorvaarthoogthe durchfahrtshohe headroom, clearance (above water)
draaibrug drehbrucke swing bridge
fefbrug hubbrucke lift bridge
getuigschrift befahnigungszeugnis certificate of competence
diepgang tiefgang draft
dieselmotor dieselmotor diesel motor
dieselolie, gasoil dieselol diesel fuel
douche dusche shower
drinkwater trinkwasser drinking water
gesloten geschlossen closed
haven hafen harbor
havenmeester hafenmeister harbormaster
helmstok ruderpinne tiller
houtbouw holzbauweise wood construction
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jacht yacht, jacht yacht

jachtbemiddeling boat broker
jachtbouwbedrijf bootsbauer boat builder
jachthaven yachthafen, jachthafen marina
jachtmakelaar boat broker
jachtmakelaardij boat brokerage
kaarten karten charts
kade kai pier
kanaal kanal canal
kantoor buro, ...amt office
kiel kiel keel
klimatiseren klima-anlage air conditioned
koelkast kuhlschrank refrigerator
ladder leiter ladder
lengte lange length
ligging lage, liegeplatz location
lichten lichten lights
logboek schiffstagebuch logbook
Luxemotor A type of working ship with aft cabin
marifoon UKW-schiffsfunk VHF radio
motoranlage motor details
motorjacht motorjacht motoryacht
motorzeiljacht motorsegler motorsailer
nautofoon hautofoon horn
occasion gebraucht second-hand, opportunity
onder voorbehoud under contract (to sell)
oost ost east
open geoffnet open
paardekracht (pk) pferdestarken (ps) horsepower
platbodem plattbodenschiffe flat-bottom boat
polyester/GRP glasfaserverstarkter/GFK fiberglass
prijslist preisliste price list
registratiehaven heimathafen home port
reparatie reparatur repairs
roer ruder rudder
romp rumpf hull
rondbodem rundbodenschiffe round-bottom boat
rondvaartboten rundfahrtschiffe (round-trip) tour boats
ruimteboot hausboot houseboat
scheepsnaam schiffsname, bootname boat name
scheepspapieren schiffspapiere ship’s papers
sleepboot schleppen tug
sluis schleuse lock (canal)
smeer schmiere grease
snelheid schnelligkeit speed
spoorbrug eisenbahnbrucke railway bridge
staal stahl steel
stuurboord steuerbord starboard (right) side
nd
2e stuurstand 2. steuerstand 2 steering position (on exterior deck)
tankstation tankstellen fuel station
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te koop for sale (usually for sale by owner)

te huur for hire, for rent
Tjalk A type of Dutch barge, clog shape
uit het water halen an land holen haul out
vaarbewijs fuhrerschein operator’s license
vaarwater fhrwasser channel
vaste brug fest Brucke fixed bridge
veer fahre ferry
verboden verboten forbidden
verhuur vermieten for hire, for rent
verkocht sold
verkoop verkauf for sale
verwarming heizung heating
verzekering versicherung insurance
vulwatertank ruckhaltetank holding tank (wastewater)
walstroom stromversorgung von land shore power
walstroomaansluiting landanschluss shore connection
Werven Werften boatyard
west west west
WC (toilet) pumpklosett toilet
winterberging winterlager winter storage
woonark houseboat
woonschip houseboat
xhroef propeller propeller
zijkanalen seitenkanale branch canals
zuid suden south
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BOAT BROKERS
Note 1) All telephone and fax numbers are shown with a leading 0, use this when dialing within The Netherlands.
For calls from outside the country, use the country code 31 and omit the 0.
Note 2) Open hours will vary, contact them first to make an appointment or to confirm open days and times.

Yachtselect Brokers: These brokers are part of the association Yachtselect, which publishes a magazine showing
some of their listings and maintains a website with over 1300 listings that can be searched. The ones listed below
have been selected because they offer barges on their web listings (rather than listings of motoryachts & sport
boats.) You can search all of the listings at www.yachtselect.nl/
Blei & Hetterschijt Jachtmakelaars
Kolksluiskade 1a
8064 DW Zwartsluis
Tel: 038-3867799
Fax: 038-3868083
E-Mail: zwartsluis@blei-hetterschijt.nl
www.blei-hetterschijt.nl/

De Haan & Broese Jachtmakelaardij

Noorderhaven 111,
8861 AC Harlingen
Mail: Postbus 104
8860 AC Harlingen
Tel: 0517-433332
Fax: 0517-431785
E-mail: g.dehaan@inter.nl.net

Scheepsmakelaardij Enkhuizen
(Sailing Barge Specialist)
Oosterhavenstraat 51
1601 KX Enkhuizen
Tel: 0228-315551
Fax: 0228-312579
E-mail: info@scheepsmakelaardij.nl
www. scheepsmakelaardij.nl

Sander Doeve C.V. Jachtmakelaar

Westhavenkade 87C
3133 AV Vlaardingen
Havennummer 703
Tel: 010-2489830
Fax: 010-2489950
E-mail: info@sander-doeve.nl
www.sander-doeve.nl/

Jachtmakelaardij Wolfrat
Oud Loosdrechtdijk 165
1231 LV Loosdrecht
Tel: 035-5827715
Fax: 035-5826673
E-mail: jachtmakelaardij@wolfrat.nl
www.wolfrat.nl/
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Other Brokers;

Bootz Yacht Brokers

Oud Loosdrechtdijk 169A
1231 LV Loosdrecht
Tel: 035-5821507
Fax: 035-5821419
E-mail: bootz@tip.nl

Jachthaven Piet Hein

Veendijk 17
1231 PC Oud Loosdrecht
Tel: 035-5823271

De Valk Loosdrecht
't Breukeleveense Meentje 6,
Postbus 33,
1230 AA Loosdrecht
Tel: 035-5829030
Fax: 035-5829039
E-mail: loosdrecht@devalk.nl
www.devalk.nl/

De Valk Sneek
Zwolsmanweg 7, Postbus 127,
8600 AC Sneek
Tel: 0515-428030
Fax: 0515-428039
E-mail: sneek@devalk.nl
www.devalk.nl/

Boten Centrum Loosdrecht

Nieuw Loosdrechtsdijk 240a
1231 LG Nieuw Loosdrecht
Tel: 035-582 3074
Fax: 035-582 3631
E-mail: yachtbroker@bcl.net
www.bcl.nl/

Inter Ocean Shipyard

(Internet Only; the website is online but they have not responded to recent e-mail messages)
www.iosl.nl/

Brandsma Jachten BV
Eeltjebaasweg 6
8606 KA Sneek
Tel: 0515-425 000
Fax: 0515-420 505
E-Mail: info@brandsma-jachten.nl
www.brandsma-jachten.nl/
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BOAT BUILDERS
Pietersplas BV (new barge replicas) Pedro Boat BV
Hoge Weerd 2 W.A. van de Velde
6229-AM Maastricht Scholtenweg 94, Zuidbroek
www.pietersplas.nl/ Tel: 0598-451763
Fax: 0598-451338
Linssen Yachts BV E-mail: info@pedro-boat.nl
Brouwersstrat 17 www.pedro-boat.nl/
Maasbracht
Tel: 047-5439999 Linden Jachtbouw
Fax: 047-5439990 Dok 6
www.linssenyachts.com/ Hardinxveld-G.dam
Tel: 0184-630114
Aquanaut Yachting Holland Fax: 0184-6112111
Selfhelpweg 9 E-mail: lindenjachtbouw@planet.nl
8607 AB Sneek
Tel: 0515-412253 Nowee Shipyard Heeg
Fax: 0515-416655 It Butlan 4
E-mail: sales@aquanaut.nl Heeg
www.aquanaut.nl/ Tel: 0515-442567
Fax: 0515-443628
Doerak www.nowee.com/
Holiday Boatin
Eeltjebaasweg 3
8606 KA Sneek
Tel: 0515-413781
E-mail: holidayb@xs4all.nl
http://www.doerak-yacjt.com/

Hellingskip
It Ges 4
8606 JK Sneek
Tel: 0515-425278
Fax: 0515-422961

Vacance Motorjachten
Einsteinstraat 9
8606 JR Sneek
Tel: 0515-423237
Fax: 0515-424995
www.vacance.nl/
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CHARTER BOAT BASES

These companies sometimes have retired boats available for sale:

Begemann Boat Charter

Zoutkeetlaan 3
2343 BD Oegstgeest
Tel 062-7073406 fax 071-5176271
e-mail: begemann@xs4all.nl
www.begemann.nl/
Base is located on the Oegstgeester Kanaal, 4 km north of Leiden, easy access from A44 autoroute (25km south
from Schiphol Airport.) Motorboats suitable for 2 to 6 persons.

De Hippert Yacht Charter

Noordeinde 21
2451 AE Leimuiden
Tel 0172-509373 fax 0172-506927
e-mail: de-hippert@wxs.nl
www.ijsselmeer.de/de-hippert
Base is located just off the Ringvaart van de Haarlemmermeerpolder, easy access from A4 autoroute (10km south
from Schiphol Airport.) Motorboats suitable for 2 to 12 persons
P. A. van de Laan Yachtcharter
Vrouwgeestweg 71
2481 KM Woubrugge
Tel 0172-518113 fax 0172-518641
e-mail: laanyacht@compuserve.com
www.ijsselmeer.de/vdlaan
Base is located on the Heimans-en Woudwetering, access from A4 autoroute through Leimuiden, south 5km on
N207, west 1.5km to Woubrugge (17km south from Schiphol Airport.)
Motorboats suitable for 2 to 8 persons.

Hatenboer Yachting BV
Marconibaan 26
3439 MS Nieuwegein
Mail: Postbus 34
3430 AA Nieuwegein
Tel: 030-6055823 Fax: 030-6300508
E-mail: info@hatenboer.nl
www.hatenboer.nl/
Nieuwegein is located just south of Utrecht, access from A2 autoroute, about 40 km south from Schiphol airport.
Motorboats suitable for 2 to 16 persons.
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SURVEYORS & NOTARIES

After an offer has been made on a vessel, it is essential that a qualified surveyor inspect the boat
and produce a detailed report. A good survey will expose all the faults you may have overlooked or have
been trying to ignore. An up-to-date survey will be required for insurance purposes, but even if one
already exists you should have a new survey done specifically for your purchase and for use in
negotiating the final sale contract.
The documentation regarding the sale, including the actual payment, should be handled through a
Notary (which in most European countries is far more than the Notary Public as in the USA, it’s more like
the Escrow Agencies used in some states for real estate transactions.) The most important thing that the
notary will do is to check the title of the vessel, that is, does the seller own it free and clear and can he
legally convey it to you.
While your broker may recommend both a surveyor and a notary, the firms listed below have been
used by many barge buyers and come highly recommended. The Dutch contacts both speak and write
good english.
Surveyor: (or in Dutch, Scheepswerktuigkundig Expertiseburo)
Frits Coers
‘s Gravelandsevaartweg 5a
1231 NL Oud Loosdrecht
Tel: 035-5826975
Fax: 035-5825024

Surveyor:
Gerard Duursma
P. Wijnterlaan 11
1412 GL Naarden, Netherlands
Tel: 035-695-2344
e-mail: duursma@xs4all.nl
www.gjwd.nl/index2.html

Surveyor: (based in UK, travels to The Netherlands, Belgium & France)

Balliol Fowden
Tel: 44-01788-541020
Fax: 44-07831-543517
E-Mail: balliol@rya-online.net
www.bargesurveyor.com

Notary:
Nysingh Dijkstra De Graaf
Freddy Jansen
Eekwal 8, Post bus 1493
8001 BL Zwolle
Tel: 038 4 273 410
E-mail notaris@steenhoven.nl
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GUIDEBOOKS & CHARTS

Although English is spoken by nearly everyone (it is required in the schools), most written
materials will be in Dutch, with occasional English and German translations.
It is useful to bring with you the Michelin Green Book “Tourist Guide, Netherlands” for
descriptions of most of the cities and towns that you will pass through.
There are a great variety of guide brochures and maps available at tourist information offices,
hotels, restaurants and shops throughout Holland.
Waterways charts are published by the ANWB (Royal Dutch Touring Club) and are available at
VVV tourist information offices in cities and many smaller towns (just watch for the prevalent “VVV”
signs.) Although these charts are entirely in Dutch, a separate “Legend” page is available in English (you
may have to ask for it); it describes the symbols used on the charts. The important items to look for are
the depth of each canal and the clearance required to pass under fixed bridges. A careful study of the chart
will allow you to decide if your vessel can navigate a particular canal (you will, of course, need to know
the dimensions of your vessel; be sure to take note of the draft [depth], beam [width] and air draft
[headroom]) The dimensions are shown in decimeters, so is a little tricky at first. For instance, the
Demmerikse Sluis (lock) is labeled “D22 W65 L295”, so it is 2.2 meters deep, 6.5 meters wide and 29.5
meters long. The bridge nearby is labeled “H38 W175”, or 3.8 meters headroom by 17.5 meters width.
What makes it confusing is a headroom labeled H27.5, which means 27.5 decimeters = 2.75 meters. A
bridge marked “BB” (beweegbare brug, or Bascule Bridge) before the dimensions means that it is a
movable bridge that will be opened. Each canal is marked “Dxx” on the chart, stating the minimum depth
along the canal.
The navigable waterways are shown in blue on the charts; some waterways are shown in yellow,
meaning that motorized craft are prohibited without special permission. If you are on a charter boat, the
operator may have the necessary permits for certain areas, be sure to get an understanding which
waterways he recommends for your planned route.
The ANWB also publishes an annual “Wateralmanak Vaargegevens” (Waterways Almanac) that
covers both Netherlands and Belgium. “Deel 1” (Volume 1) describes regulations and certificate
requirements; “Deel 2” is more generally available and provides detailed information on waterways,
marinas, authority contacts, etc. While it is written only in Dutch, a glossary of abbreviations and
keywords translated into English, German and French allows it to be interpreted for useful information.
Abbreviations:
Used on ANWB charts & almanac:
bb movable bridge OLW agreed low river level
be fuel, gasoline PP polder water level
die fuel, diesel Ro right bank (looking downstream)
D depth SP dam water level
GHW mean high water W.V. yacht club
GLW mean low water IJWP Ijsselmeer winter water level
H height (headroom) IJZP Ijsselmeer summer water level
kmr kilometer post zo. Sunday
KP canal water level ma. Monday
LAT Lowest Astronomical Tide di. Tuesday
Lo left bank (looking downstream) wo. Wednesday
MET Central European Time do. Thursday
MR mean river water level in summer vr. Friday
NAP normal Amsterdam water level zat. Saturday
NR normal river water level fd. public holiday
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BOAT SHOWS

These boat shows display new boats manufactured in The Netherlands. They can also be very useful even
if you plan to buy a second-hand boat, because there will be many displays by suppliers of equipment, so
you can search for a new generator or heating system.

They are listed chronologically; for the exact dates, check the EuroCanals website under Links/Shows.

boot Dusseldorf, last week in January, Dusseldorf, Germany

This is the world’s largest indoor boat show and although it is not in The Netherlands, it is only a short
distance away in Germany. You will be able to find a booth here for just about anything related to boats.
Over 125 members of HISWA, the boating industry association of Holland, displayed here in 2001, along
with hundreds of other exhibitors.

Boot Holland, first week in February, Leuwarden, Friesland

This indoor show, and Boot Sneek listed below, are oriented to inland waterways boating. New inland
waterways cruising boats will be on display, along with equipment and services.

HISWA, early March, Amsterdam

A large indoor show by the Holland boating industry. Many boats will be sport boats, rather than inland
waterways cruising boats, but again it is a good source for information about equipment.

Boot Sneek, early April, Sneek, Friesland

Not a show at a central location, this is more of an open house at several boating industry companies
based in Sneek.

Amsterdam Seaport Boat Show, first week in September, Ijmuiden

An in-water show at the North Sea coast town of Ijmuiden, west of Amsterdam at the end of the Nordsee
Kanaal.
Not oriented to inland waterways boating.
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by Tom Sommers June 2001

I found Ron & Judy Childers of Arlington, Texas aboard their

58 ft. narrowboat Emscote at Stratford-on-Avon's beautiful port
right in the town center near the Royal Shakespeare Theatre.
Their cruise had started from Blue Lias Marina at Stockton on
the Grand Union Canal. The boat was ready and waiting for
their arrival from the USA; boarding late Friday afternoon, they
moored the first night out at Itchington bottom lock, just to the
west. The next day Judy worked the paddles and gates at the
twenty-one locks of the Hatton flight while Ron steered. They
moored at Turner's Green, then at Wootton Wawen on the
Stratford-Avon Canal, and arrived at Stratford on Monday
afternoon.

Their cruise could have been aboard a hired narrowboat, but the
Emscote is their own boat, co-owned with their partners under a
shared-ownership plan set up by OwnerShips, a London-based
organization that puts together groups of owners, contracts to have a boat built for them and then manages the
scheduling, mooring and maintenance of the boat on behalf of the group.

This type of ownership is ideal for boaters who live overseas but want to cruise on their own vessel in England
(the plan is also available in France and Ireland, with Holland soon in the future) yet still be free from all of the
usual responsibilities of owning and maintaining a vessel. Ron is a pilot-training manager at American Airlines;
his busy schedule doesn't allow him time to travel to England to perform or supervise the many routine or
unexpected services required to operate a boat. Ron and Judy want to make the most of their vacation time on the
boat, they want to show up and go.

They could hire a boat; there are dozens of reliable rental bases that offer clean, well-maintained narrowboats,
river cruisers and barges. And that's the recommended way to try this type of cruising for the first time. But for
repeated cruises, hiring is more expensive and you cannot be sure of exactly which boat you will be using, it
depends on availability within the rental fleet. Shared ownership is cheaper (holidays will cost around £300 per
week, compared to £600-1,000 for hiring) and you get a boat equipped as you desire. But it is similar to hiring in
that you can just show up ready to go, the boat will be prepared and ready for immediate departure.

Here's how the plan works: OwnerShips solicits new members through advertisements, a website, the annual
OwnerShips Show held at Braunston Marina in February and visits aboard owners' boats during changeover days.
Twelve shares are sold in each vessel, so costs are split 12 ways (you can buy more than one share.) New owners
can buy a share in an existing vessel or a vessel will be built for a new group of owners. For the initial season of
a new narrowboat, OwnerShips bases the boat at Blue Lias Marina, Stockton, Warwicks and performs all
maintenance and management services to keep the boat in operation and available for the owners, who use the
boat according to an agreed-upon schedule. The owners share running costs proportionally.

The owner groups meet annually to set plans and budget for the coming year. The mooring site can be changed
to any location on the inland waterway network of England. Instructions to the OwnerShips management staff
are democratically agreed. Owners contribute into a bank account that pays all costs. Overseas owners often
attend these meetings by scheduling cruises in adjoining weeks, with the meeting on the owners' changeover day.
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The design and construction of new boats, preventive maintenance and emergency servicing of these boats is the
job of the professional management staff at OwnerShips. The actual work on the boats is handled by local
independent boatyards and rental bases throughout England (as well as at bases in France, Ireland and Holland.)
OwnerShips has become a major force that helps to support the mini-industry that has sprung up in recent years
around Britain's canals after years of decline. This system offers total support for each boat, whether at its home
mooring or traveling on a cruise. A call to the OwnerShips help-line will provide direct contact with engineering
and administrative support services or emergency response from mechanics.

OwnerShips has found that most owners will want to schedule two consecutive weeks in high season and one
week in low season, and may also want to be able to cruise on short notice if the boat is available. The manage-
ment team has worked out a detailed plan for scheduling these trips among the various owners that seems
complicated on first reading but is flexible and has worked well for over a decade of the organization's existence.
And, rather than restricting travel to out-and-back trips from a single base, extended cruises can be organized
whereby one owner passes the boat on to the next as the route continues along the waterway network.

How does this compare to a Time-Share? In that situation, you buy one particular time period, fixed on the
calendar, which can be fulfilled on a variety of boats. You do not own a boat, only a time period. With Shared
Ownership, you choose your weeks each year on your own boat, in which you have had a say in the fitting-out,
mooring place, schedule, etc.

An important difference from Time-Share operations is that OwnerShips does not own the boats, they are owned
by the group of twelve shares. Should there be a default or bankruptcy by OwnerShips, the owners only lose
their services agreement; the boat itself would be unaffected.

Costs: One-twelfth shares in two 58 ft boats now under construction are priced at £5,980 and £6,070. As of
April 2, 2001 there were 40 shares available in existing boats, priced from £2,400 for a 47 ft boat launched in
1991 to £4,900 for a 58 ft boat launched in July 2000.

Operating costs are budgeted at the annual owners meeting; mooring, license, insurance, routine servicing,
general wear and tear and an annual dry docking for full preventative maintenance will total approximately
£4,800, or £400 per twelfth share. If the owners group decides to retain OwnerShips management services (all
owners have historically decided to do this), the annual cost per share is £294. Each owner is responsible for the
costs of diesel, gas and pump-out services while afloat; these costs will vary, but an average figure is £30 for
each of the typical three weeks' usage. Thus the total annual costs will be approximately £784 ($1,100).

Selling Your Share: Your share in a boat is yours for keeps, or to be left in your will, or it can be sold with
OwnerShips' help. This is one of the big advantages of the organization; they usually have a list of waiting
buyers for a quick and painless sale. The owner doesn't have to spend time preparing the boat for sale, dealing
with potential buyers, etc. Currently, five percent of the total shares of the narrowboat fleet are listed for resale.

Sometimes shares are sold because an owner decides to leave the program altogether, but more often it is to
move into a share of a different vessel within the OwnerShips operation. For either reason, the owner sets the
price, usually with advice from the management team. The selling price is not guaranteed, it will be the current
market value of a share and will include depreciation.
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Narrowboats in the OwnerShips fleet are now built
58 ft in length, able to negotiate all of England's
canals (a few boats are 47 ft and there is one 70 ft
boat.) The boats are built to a high level of design
specification and quality, for durability and high
resale value. Emphasis is placed on interior
comfort, spaciousness and ease of use by a couple,
with a double master cabin in all boats and
convertible freestanding furniture for four more
guests. Several layouts are available, in traditional,
semi-traditional or cruiser style.
A new design being introduced is the narrow-beam
Dutch Barge. It's a combination of the narrowboat
dimensions (nominal 58 ft X 7 ft) with the Dutch
Barge styling (raised wheelhouse, barge-style bow
and stern shapes) and more luxurious features,
such as washer/dryer and onboard generator. The
wheelhouse provides maximum-visibility seating a few steps up from the galley and saloon, along with the helm
station; the upper part of the structure folds down for low bridges and open-air cruising. A master cabin and a
second enclosed cabin with double bed (as well as a folding single bed above) mean that this boat is designed to
accommodate four people in full comfort, with sleeping facilities for two more people if needed.

Wide-Beam Dutch Barges: OwnerShips was founded on the basis of a fleet of narrowboats, and all of the
above discussion relates to that type of boat and its use on the English canals. In 1999 the option of boating in
France and Ireland was introduced; because the canals and rivers of those countries do not include the beam-
restricting locks of England, wide-beam Dutch-style barges were selected for greater flexibility, comfort and
safety on the more open and commercial canals, rivers and lakes. This option is also available on the River
Thames; a wide-beam Dutch barge is based near Oxford, offering river cruising on the Thames, east through
the center of London to Greenwich, and west to rural Gloucestershire.

This article was suggested by a reader from Canada; a satisfied owner of an OwnerShips narrowboat share in
England from 1996 until 1999, that share has now been sold in favor of a share in a wide-beam Dutch barge.
Dorney was first used in England and then moved to its current base at Auxerre, France, alongside the similar
barge Digoine.

Along with the substantial size difference in the Dutch barges as compared to the narrowboats, there are also
differences in the way that the program operates. First, operating costs are a fixed annual fee that is set in
advance by OwnerShips, rather than the budget discussions described above. Second, owners may vary their
holiday plans from year-to-year across the various boats and locations in several countries, and in fact can
opt-out in a given year and receive cash-back for a trip somewhere else entirely.The ability to swap holidays to
other boats (the administration of these swaps is handled by the OwnerShips staff) is a useful feature and is also
available to narrowboat owners. A clever (and perfectly allowable) plan might be to purchase a relatively low-
cost share in one of the older narrowboats and occasionally take up the option of the use of one of the Dutch
barges! The one-twelfth-share price of the wide-beam Dutch barges is around £8,500 ($12,000.)

Contact OwnerShips: www.ownerships.co.uk e-mail: anyone@ownerships.co.uk

OwnerShips Ltd., 39 Westminster Drive London N13 4NT, UK Tel/Fax +44 (0) 20-8888-5555
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Waterways of England & Wales

Oxford Canal near Napton

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Waterways of England

"The fastest way of slowing down" is the slogan of the pleasure cruising industry in England. Largely disused
and abandoned after the railroads and then the highways took over as the primary means of transportation, the
canals and navigable rivers of Great Britain are now booming again. Private boats, rental boats and hotel boats
cruise the thousands of miles of waterways (in season, of course; don't forget that England is in the North
Atlantic and not in the Mediterranean!)

In this report, we offer an overview of the extensive waterway network throughout England and Wales. The map
and waterway listings in this EuroCanals Guide will help you to locate the canals, rivers and cruising routes.

Favorite Tourist Regions

Inland cruising waterways can be found throughout England, with the exceptions of the Yorkshire Dales north to
Scotland and along the western side of Wales and Devon/Cornwall (this statement ignores coastal sailing and
motor boating, which is not covered by our newsletter.) The most popular regions include:

Birmingham Canal Navigations

The BCN is the hub of the Midlands inland waterway system; 100 miles of navigable waterways lie within the
city of Birmingham and the adjacent Black Country to the northwest. (The Black Country was named for the
poor air quality prevalent during the height of industrial activity, now mostly history.) Recent improvements to
the canals and the environs are encouraging more boaters to consider this area a tourism resource.

Norfolk Broads
Roughly two-thirds of cruising trips in England take place on 2500 miles of the interconnected canals and rivers.
The other third takes place on the 200 miles of rivers and lakes in the Broads. Six rivers flow to the North Sea at
Yarmouth and Lowestoft through marshlands and past backwaters ideal for carefree holiday cruising, either by
river cruiser or sailboat. There are no locks on the river waterways, however care must be taken to check heights
and plan passage under some restrictive bridges, especially at high tide conditions.

The area is protected by the equivalent of a national park, managed by The Broads Authority. Hundreds of river
cruisers and sailboats are available for hire from more than sixty bases; holidays can be booked directly with
each operator or through Blake's Holiday Boating (refer to EuroCanals Guide: Rental Bases, England.)

The Royal River Thames

From the western edge of London at Teddington Lock, the River Thames can be cruised by broad and narrow
boats for 124 miles to Lechlade in Gloucestershire. The river passes by Windsor, site of the Queen's castle,
Izaak Walton's stretch of the river near Marlow, then Henley and Oxford. At Oxford, narrowboats can continue
north into the Midlands waterways.

Moorings are plentiful, both in the countryside and in the towns, many just a short walk from pubs of character
and history. Locks (44 of them) are evenly spaced and operated by lockkeepers. Kris Cruisers, a family company
based at Datchet, near Windsor, operates a rental fleet of modern river cruisers.
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Waterways of England

Kennet & Avon Canal

Leaving the Thames at Reading, the Kennet and Avon Rivers wind through the rolling pastoral beauty of
Berkshire and Wiltshire to the cities of Bath and Bristol (note that this is the River Avon, Bristol, not connected
with the River Avon, Warwick, of Stratford-upon-Avon fame.)

Yorkshire Dales
No, you can't cruise to Darrowby or the Dales, familiar to readers and viewers of All Creatures Great and Small,
but you can follow the River Ouse and River Ure north from York to Ripon, passing through beautiful
countryside right on the eastern edge of the Dales. The route is 76 miles long, with only 6 self-operated locks.

Cambridge and The Fens

The River Great Ouse and the River Nene flow from the center of England north to The Wash, a large bay on the
North Sea. Between their almost parallel courses, the Middle Level Navigation drains the Fens. This
combination of navigable waterways is an uncrowded and uncommercial region ideal for cruising through
nature reserves and vast, open skies. Fox Narrowboats offers a variety of holiday cruises from their main base
at March, Cambridgeshire. Vessels arriving from the North Sea can access the interconnected inland waterways
by proceeding up the River Nene to Northampton and a junction with the Grand Union Canal (from
Peterborough to Northampton, dimensions are restricted to 78' length, 13' beam, 4' draft and 7' height.)

Medway
Only a short distance from London at the mouth of the Thames, the River Medway winds 42 miles into the
beautiful countryside of Kent.

Wales
The Llangollen Canal makes a spectacular entrance into northern Wales from the Midlands as it crosses the
famous Pontcysyllte and Chirk aqueducts and the Chirk tunnel. In the south, the peaceful Brecon Beacons
National Park is the home of the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal.
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Waterways of England

Through Routes; Two Routes Across England

The Leeds & Liverpool Canal connects the Irish Sea at Liverpool with the North Sea at the River Humber,
crossing the Pennines to accomplish this hard route. Commercial traffic still travels here due to industrial
activity in the cities, but there is also substantial breathtaking natural beauty. Another route allows passage from
the Bristol Channel diagonally northeast on the River Severn, through Birmingham, the Trent & Mersey Canal
and the River Trent to the River Humber.

Less Traveled Scenic Routes

Caldon Branch, Trent & Mersey Canal
A steep staircase of locks takes boats from the main canal up to a view of the Potteries and then descends to
Froghall Basin, through a tunnel with only 4.6 feet headroom. A delightful, secluded 18-mile trip.

Ashby Canal
Twenty-two miles long with no locks, this is a rural canal to nowhere, now that the coal mines that
it once served have caused subsidence and closure of the upper end of the canal.

Rochdale Canal
Although the southern end of The Rochdale Canal will not be restored and reopened until later
in 2001, a cruise from Todmorden east into the Calder & Hebble Navigation will find little traffic and
breathtaking views of the Yorkshire and Lancashire scenery.

Waterways Not Connected to the Network

Lancaster Canal
This underused canal winds along between the flat coast and the hills that rise into the Bowland Forest, with
views to the Lake District. Completion of the Ribble Link will connect this beautiful canal, with no locks for the
42 miles from Preston to Tewitfield, to the network of waterways more than 200 years after the canal was created.

Bridgwater & Taunton Canal

Trailered boats can enter this attractive canal at either end and enjoy its peaceful character as well as the shops
and restaurants at Bridgwater.

River Glen and River Welland

These remote rivers pass through England's best bulb-growing country. The area is historically connected with
Holland, directly across the North Sea, and the Dutch influence can be seen in the buildings.
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Waterways of England

RING CRUISES
“Ring” cruises use a series of connected canals and rivers to allow a one, two or three week trip without
reversing direction. The canals and rivers of The Midlands are well suited for this type of route, which a
popular option for holiday cruisers. (The suggested time allowance for each ring is shown; the first
number will usually require an energetic crew, the second number allows more leisurely cruising with
more or longer stops. Cities are listed only to identify the location of the route.)

ROUTE TIME CITIES WATERWAYS

Avon Ring 1 week Birmingham Worcester & Birmingham Canal
108 miles 2 weeks Worcester River Severn
130 locks Stratford-upon- River Avon
5 tunnels Avon Stratford-upon-Avon Canal
Stourport Ring 1 week Stourport River Severn
73 miles 2 weeks Birmingham Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal
109 locks Worcester Birmingham Canal Navigations
9 tunnels Worcester & Birmingham Canal
Four Counties Ring 1 week Birmingham Staffordshire & Worcestershire Canal
110 miles 2 weeks Stoke-on-Trent Trent & Mersey Canal
89 locks Middlewich Middlewich Branch
2 tunnels Shropshire Union Canal
Cheshire Ring 1 week Manchester Bridgewater Canal
96 miles 2 weeks Middlewich Trent & Mersey Canal
91 locks Macclesfield Macclesfield Canal
3 tunnels Peak Forest Canal
Ashton Canal
Leicestershire Ring 2 weeks Leicester Grand Union Canal: Leicester Section & River
154 miles Burton-upon-Trent Soar
100 locks Rugby Trent & Mersey Canal
5 tunnels Coventry Canal
Oxford Canal
Warwickshire Ring 1 week Birmingham Grand Union Canal
79 miles 2 weeks Warwick Oxford Canal
101 locks Coventry Coventry Canal
7 tunnels Birmingham & Fazeley Canal
Grand Circle 2 weeks London Grand Union Canal
248 miles 3 weeks Oxford Canal
174 locks River Thames
2 tunnels
London Ring 3-4 London Grand Union Canal:
44 miles nights Brentford & Paddington Arms
25 locks 1 week Regents Canal (Little Venice)
2 tunnels River Thames

I confess to being addicted to not turning around, whether traveling by car or by boat. But anyone
thinking of a ring trip on a rented boat should plan carefully and not overreach. A hired boat is under
contract to be returned at a specific time and place; if a ring route is pursued, then there may be pressure
to keep going to get there on time. The alternative is an out-and-back plan; the scenery will probably look
different when seen from the other direction, and the captain will know just how long it will take to return
to the starting point, especially if a log has been kept of time underway. Any interesting sights or
activities that were missed on the way out can be enjoyed on the return.
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Waterways of England

The Narrow Canals

The British Narrow canals use lock dimensions of 7 feet wide by 72 feet long (nominal). Narrow canals are
found only in the West-Central part of England (The Midlands, centered at Birmingham) and in Wales. The
southern end of the narrow canal region is at Oxford, the eastern side is near Northampton; the northern end is
ear Manchester and the narrow canals dead-end in Wales. All other canals & rivers are Broad and can be
traveled by boats and barges arriving from the continent or overseas (after a careful study of the pertinent charts
and guides.) Along with the obvious advantages of building a narrow canal as compared to wider canals,
Narrow locks conserve water, which can be in limited supply and can restrict the use of some canals. Narrow
locks use 25-30,000 gallons per cycle; broad locks use 55-60,000 gallons.

Narrowboats
Recognized by their long, thin shape with brightly colored deckhouse and rear deck tiller steering position,
Narrowboats are unique to England, where they are needed to navigate the narrow canals. The traditional steel
hull measures approximately 70 to 72 ft long by 6 ft 10 in to 7 ft wide. Narrowboats can be rented from bases
located along all of the canals (refer to EuroCanals Guide: Rental Bases, England) or can be purchased new or
used. They are available new from at least three dozen builders, either as a steel shell or a fully completed vessel.
There are several boat brokers that specialize in used Narrowboats and they are advertised for sale in the inland
waterway magazines. (Contact EuroCanals if you would like address and telephone information.)

Here is a comparison with some typical continental vessels:

Narrowboat 7 ft (2.1 meters) wide 45 to 72 ft (13.6 to 21.8 m) long
Peniche (barge) 5.05 m (16.7 ft) 35 m (116 ft)
Penichette (rental boat) 3.1 to 3.8 m (10 to 13 ft) 9 to 15 m (30 to 50 ft)
Dutch motorcruiser 3 to 4 m (10 to 13 ft) 9 to 15 m (30 to 50 ft)

Narrowboats are not, of course, the only vessels cruising British waterways. There are also many thousands of
private and rental river cruisers, usually with fiberglass (or as the British say, GRP) or sometimes steel or wood
hulls. These boats are generally used only on the Broad canals and rivers. They are especially numerous on the
Norfolk Broads & River Thames. Hundreds of such vessels are available for holiday cruise rentals.

Hotel barges & Hotel boats

As in France, broad-beam hotel barges operate in parts of England; these barges have been converted from
Dutch or French commercial-hauling service or have been built new to a similar design. These barges travel on
rivers They generally operate cruise between two fixed points and then reversing the route on alternate weeks.

Called Hotel Boats in England, narrowboats operating as singles or pairs are a different breed. Always owner-
operated, they are (in most cases) also booked directly with the owners. They travel the network of narrow
canals in the Midlands and extend their route to the broad canals and rivers of the Yorkshire Dales and Southern
England. Rather than a fixed back-and-forth schedule between two points, they travel continuously along the
connected network of canals and rivers. Selection of a particular hotel boat and date depends on where they are
scheduled to cruise on a particular date. The pair-style hotel boats continue the traditional working-boat idea of
one barge with a motor and a second barge that can be towed alongside or in tandem. This setup allows the
individual boats to be narrow enough to fit into the 7 ft locks prevalent in the Midlands and Wales, while the two
boats together offer cabin, dining and saloon areas that are equivalent to the broad barges.
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Waterways of England

Cruising Guides for English Waterways

Cruising guides and charts are always important for a skipper traveling in a private vessel, but in England it is
especially essential to check out the details of a waterway before embarking. Perhaps you have brought your
Vedette Hollandaise (Dutch motorcruiser) across the Channel from France intending to travel around England;
its beam is probably 10' to 13', thus all of the Narrow canals are unavailable; you will need to know which ones
they are, as well as any other restrictions such as narrow bridges on Broad canals. These books should definitely
be studied while planning a trip, or for general reading about British waterways:

Inland Waterways of Great Britain, Compiled by Jane Cumberlidge. 7th edition, 1998.
Published by Imray, Cambridgeshire. Hardbound, 11"H X 8 ½" W, 303 pages. Color photos.
Includes the folded map "The Inland Waterways of Great Britain" (40" H X 28" W). About $45.
Quotes: "This is the definitive reference book of the inland waterways", "The Canal Bible". The predecessors of
this edition began in 1904 as Bradshaw's... It was adapted for leisure cruisers before the Second World War, and
then extended in the 1950s. This edition was the result of three years of fieldwork to check on the current status
of each waterway, followed by a complete redrawing of maps and diagrams. Each waterway is individually
described, with historical notes, general comments and full details of dimensions, distances, regulations and
useful addresses. The position of the waterway is shown on a small map of Great Britain and maps of some
sections of waterways supplement the text and data. Tables that are very useful show, either for the full length
of the waterway or for each section that is different, data for: From/To points, Distance, Length, Beam, Draught,
Headroom & Locks, in both miles/feet/inches and the metric equivalents.

Britain's Waterways, A unique insight, by Brian Roberts. 1999.

Published by GEOprojects, Reading. Softback, spiral bound, 9 7/8" H X 8 ¼" W, 128 pages.
Color photos and maps. About $20.
An atlas of the waterways of England, Wales and Scotland, with regional maps showing waterway locations and
detailed maps of many (but not all) canals and rivers, including nearby roads, footpaths, rail lines and features of
interest. Significant interesting sites are each described by a paragraph, with directions for getting there.
This book is intended mostly for spotting the waterways from a car and for walking excursions, but it is a useful
addition onboard as well. It does not provide navigation details but it will make a cruise more fun by knowing
where to go ashore and what can be seen there.

Where to Buy Books & Charts

The Inland Waterways Assn. is an organization of volunteers that work to promote and restore the waterways;
Their current catalog includes a rather astounding total of 251 book titles, 113 maps and guides, and 61 videos.I
WA, P.O. Box 114, Rickmansworth WD3 1ZY Tel: +44 (0) 1923 711114 Fax: +44 (0) 1923 897000
www.waterways.org.uk E-mail: iwa@waterways.org.uk

Imray, Laurie, Norie & Wilson Ltd.

Wych House, The Broadway, St Ives, Cambridgeshire PE27 5BT
Tel: +44 (0) 1480 462114 Fax: +44 (0) 1480 496109 www.imray.com

Adlard Coles Nautical, an imprint of A&C Black,

P.O. Box 19, St. Neots, Cambridgeshire PE19 8SF Tel: +44 (0) 1480 212666
Fax: +44 (0) 1480 405014 E-mail; sales@acblackdist.co.uk
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Waterways of England

Seven Wonders of the Waterways

Selected by Robert Aickman, co-founder of the Inland Waterways Association:

1. Devizes Locks
The Caen Hill lock flight rises 130 feet in 16 locks; the locks are so close together that huge side ponds were
created to store enough water to operate them.

2. Pontcysyllte Aqueduct On the Llangollen Canal.

A magnificent structure, stone piers hold a cast-iron trough 1,007 feet long 126 feet above the River Dee. On one
side the trough is only a few inches above the waterline, offering a spectacular view for those crossing on boats.

3. Anderton Boat Lift

Connects the Trent & Mersey Canal with the River Weaver, near the Manchester Ship Canal. Two counter-
balanced cassions hold one wide boat or two narrowboats and lift them 50 feet.

4. Standedge Tunnel
Located at the highest canal summit in the UK (656 feet) on the Huddersfield Narrow Canal, now being restored.
Nearly 3 ¼ miles long (5,698 yards), it was dug 638 feet below ground through the Pennines.

5. Barton Swing Aqueduct On the Bridgewater Canal;

A single trough 235 feet long, 18 ft wide and 6 ft deep is closed-off by gates at each end and the entire structure
swings open to allow ocean-going ships to pass through on the Manchester Ship Canal.

6. Bingley Five-Rise
Opened in 1774 to attack the barrier of the Pennines with the Leeds & Liverpool Canal. These five locks are
directly connected (the lower gates of one lock form the upper gates of the next) and rise 60 feet to the Yorkshire
Dales. Part of a staircase of 23 locks that climb 155 feet in 16 miles. Still in service after two hundred years.

7. Burnley Embankment
Carries the Leeds & Liverpool Canal for nearly a mile above the rooftops of Burnley; started in 1795.

And the 8th, new and now open:

The Falkirk Wheel on the Forth & Clyde Canal in Scotland, a furuistic-looking rotating boatlift, the only one of
its kind in the world.
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Waterways of England & Wales

Narrow Canals (Locks are 7 ft wide)

SCOTLAND Broad Canals (Locks are over 7 ft wide)
Rivers

Newcastle
r
Rive
Tyne

ENGLAND
& WALES
46
York
47
43 48
Preston 42 Leeds 49 57
44 Hull
45
42b
Hum
42 35 38b ber
38a
36b 37 56 Riv
42
42a 31b er
Liverpool 36a
31c 34
Manchester 26c
33
Sheffield 40 41
30 24d 32
27
23b 26b
23c 27b
25
27a
Stoke- e
29
on-Trent 22d
26a Boston Th ash
24c W
23a Nottingham
24a 54
24b 22c 55 Norfolk
Wolverhampton 18b 7b
51a 50 8c Broads 10
28 53 52 51 22b
Peterborough
BIRMINGHAM Norwich
18a 1c Coventry 9
7a
Stourport 21b
22a
Stratford Northampton 8b
19 20

WALES
1b
Worcester 1h 8a
5b 6b Cambridge Ipswich
6a
21a
17 5a 1a
12a

Gloucester 2e Oxford 11
12
4
2d
r 1f
ive3d Bristol
1g 1d s
R 2c 2a ThamEe stuary
rn Reading 1a 1e
ve 3c 2b
LONDON
Se 3a 13
3b 15
14
Bridgwater 16

© Copyright 2006 EuroCanals

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The BLACK COUNTRY Canal Network
0 5
MILES

The NORFOLK BROADS 18b 53j 53k

23a
0 5
53f
MILES
10c

10a 53a 53f

10b 53h
WOLVER-
HAMPTON

53g
10a 53a

53b
10d
GREAT 18a 53b
NORWICH 53a
10d YARMOUTH
10e 52

53a 52
10f 53i 1c
10e 53c
53e BIRMINGHAM
53d
LOWESTOFT
10e
19 1c

NORFOLK BROADS
NAME OF WATERWAY MAP FROM TO TYPE LENGTH LOCKS
River Bure 10a Great Yarmouth Horstead RIVER 31 0
River Thurne 10b River Bure Hickling Broad RIVER 7 0
River Ant 10c River Bure Wayford Bridge RIVER 8 0
River Yare 10d Norwich Yarmouth Bar RIVER 32 0
River Waveney 10e Geldeston River Yare RIVER 23 0
River Chet 10f Loddon River Yare RIVER 4 0

BIRMINGHAM CANAL NAVIGATIONS

NAME OF WATERWAY MAP FROM TO TYPE LENGTH LOCKS
Grand Union Canal, Main Line 1c Camp Hill Salford Junction NARROW 3 11
Staffordshire & Worcestershire C. 18a Stourport-on-Severn Autherley Jct NARROW 25 33
Staffordshire & Worcestershire C. 18b Autherley Jct Great Haywood Jct NARROW 21 12
Worcester & Birmingham Canal 19 Worcester Birmingham NARROW 30 58
Shropshire Union Canal 23a Autherley Jct Nantwich NARROW 41 29
Birmingham Main Line 53a Staff & Worcs Canal Worcs & Birmingham NARROW 16 24
Tame Valley Canal 53b Walsall Canal Birm & Fazeley C. NARROW 9 11
Dudley Canal #2 53c Windmill End Jct Hawne Basin NARROW 6 0
Dudley Canal #1 53d Birm Main Line Stourbridge Canal NARROW 5 11
Stourbridge Canal 53e Stourton Jct Dudley #1 Canal NARROW 6 20
Wyrley & Essington Canal 53f Wolverhampton Anglesey basin NARROW 23 0
Walsall Canal 53g Wednesbury Old C. Walsall NARROW 7 8
Rushall Canal 53h Tame Valley Canal Daw End NARROW 3 9
Titford Canal 53i Oldbury Jct Rowley Colliery NARROW 1 6
Cannock Extension 53j (closed) NARROW
Daw End Canal 53k Daw End Catshill Jct NARROW 5 0
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NAME OF WATERWAY MAP FROM TO TYPE LENGTH LOCKS
Grand Union Canal, Main Line 1a Brentford (R.Thames) Braunston BROAD 90 102
Grand Union Canal, Main Line 1b Braunston Camp Hill BROAD 42 57
Grand Union Canal, Main Line 1b (Width= 12.5' at Stockton Restrictions on broad craft)
Grand Union Canal, Main Line 1c Camp Hill Salford Junction NARROW 3 11
Paddington Arm, Grand Union 1d Paddington Basin Main Line BROAD 13 0
Regent's Canal, Grand Union 1e Paddington Arm River Thames BROAD 8 13
Hertford Union Canal, Grand Union 1f Regent's Canal River Lee BROAD 1.3 3
Slough Arm, Grand Union 1g G U Main Line Slough Basin BROAD 5 0
Northampton Arm, Grand Union 1h G U Main Line River Nene BROAD 5 17
River Thames (Tidal) 2a Thames Barrier Teddington TIDAL RIVER 27 1
River Thames 2b Teddington Windsor RIVER 25 8
River Thames 2c Windsor Reading RIVER 30 11
River Thames 2d Reading Oxford RIVER 41 13
River Thames 2e Oxford Lechlade RIVER 30 11
River Kennet 3a Reading Newbury RIVER 19 21
Kennet & Avon Canal 3b Newbury Bath BROAD 57 78
River Avon, Bristol 3c Bath Hanham Lock BROAD 11 6
River Avon, Bristol 3d Hanham Lock Severn Mouth TIDAL RIVER 15 3
Gloucester & Sharpness 4 Sharpness Gloucester BROAD 16.5 2
River Severn 5a Gloucester Worcester RIVER 28 3
River Severn 5b Worcester Stourport RIVER 12.5 3
River Avon, Warwick 6a Tewkesbury Evesham RIVER 25 8
River Avon, Warwick 6b Evesham Alveston RIVER 20 9
River Nene 7a Northampton Peterborough RIVER 61 37
River Nene 7b Peterborough The Wash TIDAL RIVER 31 1
River Great Ouse 8a Bedford Earith RIVER 40 15
River Great Ouse, Old River 8b Earith Denver Sluice RIVER 31 2
River Great Ouse 8c Denver The Wash BROAD 16 0
Middle Level Navigations 9 River Nene River Great Ouse RIVER 28.5 4
Norfolk Broads 10 SEE INSET
Chelmer & Blackwater Navigation 11 Heybridge Basin Chelmsford RIVER 14 13
River Lee 12 Thames, Limehouse Hertford RIVER 28 21
River Stort 12a River Lee Bishops Stortford RIVER 13.75 15
River Medway 13 Sheerness Tonbridge TIDAL RIVER 42 10
River Wey & Godalming 14 River Thames Godalming RIVER 20 16
Basingstoke Canal 15 Woodham Jct Greywell BROAD 32 29
Bridgwater & Taunton Canal 16 Bridgwater Taunton BROAD 14.5 7
Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal 17 Brecon Cwmbran NARROW 36 6
Staffordshire & Worcestershire C. 18a Stourport-on-Severn Wolverhampton NARROW 26 33
Staffordshire & Worcestershire C. 18b Wolverhampton Great Haywood Jct NARROW 21 12
Worcester & Birmingham Canal 19 Worcester Birmingham NARROW 30 58
Droitwich Canals 19a (under restoration)
Stratford-on-Avon Canal 20 King's Norton Jct Stratford-on-Avon NARROW 25 56
Oxford Canal 21a Oxford Napton Jct NARROW 50 39
Oxford Canal 21b Braunston Hawkesbury Jct NARROW 23 7
Leicester Section, Grand Union 22a Norton Jct Foxton Jct NARROW 23 17
Leicester Section, Grand Union 22b Foxton Jct Leicester BROAD 18 24
River Soar, Grand Union 22c Leicester River Trent RIVER 25 18
Erewash Canal, Grand Union 22d River Trent Eastwood BROAD 12 15
Shropshire Union Canal 23a Autherley Jct Nantwich NARROW 41 29
Chester Branch, ShrpshrUnion 23b Nantwich Ellesmere Port BROAD 28 18
Middlewich Branch, ShrpshrUnion 23c Barbridge Jct Middlewich NARROW 10 4
Trent & Mersey Canal 24a River Derwent Burton-upon-Trent BROAD 18 7
Trent & Mersey Canal 24b Burton-upon-Trent Fradley Jct NARROW 8 10
Trent & Mersey Canal 24c Fradley Jct Middlewich NARROW 45 53
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NAME OF WATERWAY MAP FROM TO TYPE LENGTH LOCKS
Trent & Mersey Canal 24d Middlewich Preston Brook BROAD 18 4
Caldon Canal 25 Stoke-on-Trent Froghall NARROW 17 17
River Trent 26a Trent & Mersey Canal Nottingham RIVER 12 5
River Trent 26b Nottingham Cromwell RIVER 29 7
River Trent 26c Cromwell River Humber TIDAL RIVER 50 0
Witham Navigation 27 Lincoln The Wash RIVER 37 3
Kyme Eau 27a Chapel Hill Cobbler's Locks RIVER 7 2
Witham Navigable Drains 27b various various RIVER 60 2
Montgomery Canal 28 Berriew Burgedin Jct NARROW 8 7
Llangollen Canal 29 Hurleston Jct Llangollen NARROW 46 21
River Weaver 30 Winsford Weston Point BROAD 20 5
Bridgewater Canal 31a Waters Meeting Runcorn BROAD 25 0
Leigh Branch, Bridgewater Canal 31b Stretford Leigh BROAD 11 0
Manchester Ship Canal 31c Eastham Manchester BROAD 36 5
Macclesfield Canal 32 Marple Hall Green NARROW 26 13
Peak Forest Canal 33 Dukinfield Jct Buxworth NARROW 15 16
Ashton Canal 34 Ashton Manchester NARROW 7 18
Rochdale Canal 35 Littleborough Halifax BROAD 16 48
Huddersfield Narrow Canal 36a Huddersfield Ashton-under-Lyne NARROW 20 74
Huddersfield Broad Canal 36b Cooper Bridge Huddersfield BROAD 3.5 10
Calder & Hebble Navigation 37 Halifax Wakefield BROAD 20 31
Aire & Calder Navigation 38a Goole Leeds BROAD 34 10
Aire & Calder Navigation 38b Castleford Wakefield RIVER 7.5 6
South Yorkshire Navigations 39 Sheffield Keadby BROAD 43 27
Chesterfield Canal 40 West Stockwith Worksop NARROW 32 46
Fossdyke Navigation 41 Torksey Jct (R. Trent) Lincoln BROAD 11 1
Leeds & Liverpool Canal 42 Leeds Liverpool BROAD 127 91
Leigh Br., Leeds & Liverpool Canal 42a Leigh Wigan BROAD 8 2
Rufford Br., Leeds & Liverpool 42b Burscough Preston BROAD 15 17
Lancaster Canal 43 Preston Borwick BROAD 42 0
Selby Canal 44 Knottingly Selby BROAD 12 4
River Ouse 45 Selby River Ure RIVER 37 2
Ripon Canal 46 River Ure Ripon RIVER 2.5 3
River Ure 47 River Ouse Ripon Canal RIVER 8 2
River Derwent 48 Barmby Stamford Bridge RIVER 22 2
Pocklington Canal 49 Cottingwith Melbourne BROAD 7 4
Ashby Canal 50 Marston Jct Snarestone Tunnel NARROW 22 0
Coventry Canal 51 Coventry Fazeley Jct NARROW 27 13
Coventry Canal 51a Huddlesford Jct Fradley Jct NARROW 6 0
Birmingham & Fazeley Canal 52 Birmingham Fazeley Jct NARROW 23 14
Birmingham Canal Navigations 53 SEE INSET
River Glen 54 Tongue End River Welland RIVER 11.5 1
River Welland 55 Folly River The Wash TIDAL RIVER 36 1
New River Ancholme 56 Bishopbridge River Humber RIVER 19 1
River Hull 57 Driffield River Humber RIVER 23 1

CHARTS
Detailed charts of these waterways are published by:
The Inland Waterways of Great Britain; Imray, W ych House, The Broadway, St Ives, Huntingdon, Cambridgeshire, PE17 4BT, UK
Inland Waterways of Britain, GEOprojects (UK) Ltd, 9-10 Southern Court, South St., Reading, Berkshire RG1 4QS, UK
Inland Waterways Map of Great Britain; Nicholson, 77-85 Fulham Palace Road, Hammersmith, London W6 8JB, UK
The Inland Waterways of Great Britain; Waterways World, The Well House, High Street, Burton-on-Trent, Staffordshire DE14
1JQ, UK
 Oxford Canal

Oxford Canal at Braunston

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Oxford Canal

Begun in 1769 to carry traffic from the coalfields of the Midlands south to London via the Thames, the Oxford
Canal is now one of England's most popular narrow canals. There are two distinctly different sections, Northern
and Southern, connected by a five-mile stretch that is shared with the Grand Union Canal; the two crossing
canals form an X close to the geographical center of the English canal network, between Napton and Braunston.

The Southern Oxford Canal begins at the historic and cosmopolitan city of Oxford, with two points of access
from the River Thames (locally called the River Isis.) The Duke's Cut connection at the northern edge of the city
was the first to be created and is convenient for boats that wish to bypass the busy city of Oxford completely.

The more attractive Isis Lock (too attractive for its alternate name, "Louse Lock") is near the city center,
connecting the canal to the Thames via Sheepwash Channel. The towpath crosses near the lock on an elegant
cast-iron bridge. A 200-yard dead-end canal to the south from Isis Lock, ending at Hythe Bridge, offers
moorings along wooded, secluded parkland. Visitors can walk into the city from here, albeit through a rather
dreary urban area. A great many residential narrowboats are moored in this section, limiting access for visiting
boats, which will usually need to moor north of Isis Lock.

Another problem for boats coming into Oxford on the canal is the difficulty of turning around; only very short
boats can turn at the end of the canal, and those longer than 50 feet will not be able to turn at the "winding hole"
near Isis Lock. (This term is pronounced wind-ding as in "blowing in the wind", I suppose because sometimes
the wind can help, not as in "wine-ding".) But a problem can also be an opportunity, for large boats can reverse
course by locking-through into Sheepwash Channel and then north on the Thames, returning to the canal at
Duke's Cut (a separate short-stay license will be required, available at the nearby Osney Lock.) This will be a
pleasant excursion onto the wider channel of the Thames with a sweeping view across Port Meadow to the city
of Oxford and its many spires.

A stop can be made just north of Godstow Lock to walk through the ruins of the nunnery where Fair Rosamund,
the mistress of Henry II, died. And an enjoyable meal in a beautiful setting can be found at the Trout Inn, a pub
overlooking the river and a frothing weir.

The canal itself is low-key and doesn't really make much of an impression on Oxford; it's not the location for the
usual Oxford scenes of grassy parks and punters on the streams. Those idyllic areas are at the River Cherwell
east of the city and the university, and at its junction with the Thames near Folly Bridge on the southern edge of
the city. But followers of the public television series "Mystery" featuring Inspector Morse have seen this part of
the canal; some episodes were filmed along here as well as a few miles north at Thrupp.

Between Isis Lock and Duke's Cut, the canal passes industry and housing developments, but also is flanked by
the gardens of houses on the east and the open fields of Port Meadow on the west, making an attractive urban
canal. It passes by Oxford's northern suburbs of Upper Wolvercote and Kidlington, under and alongside busy
highways until a last brief run next to the Banbury Road, then off on its own at Thrupp. As the canal turns away
from the highway, the Boat Inn (a well-known pub) and a long row of stone cottages line the bank and are
matched by a similar, but much more colorful, row of moored narrowboats. At the end of the row is a wooden
lift bridge opening onto the "Thrupp Wide", an unusually wide stretch of canal with plenty of room for turning.
British Waterways maintenance crews operate from a yard here. Just around the next bend is the deserted village
of Hampton Gay, worth a walking excursion. A secluded church stands by the River Cherwell, near the ruins of a
manor with crumbling stone walls and 0pen windows. Access is from the eastern end of Shipton Bridge.
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Oxford Canal

It is here where the real attractions of this canal begin, as it meanders through the pleasant countryside of the
Cherwell Valley. The River Cherwell and the canal run side by side (and occasionally are a single waterway)
between the charming villages of Oxfordshire. No roads follow directly along with the canal; nearly all of the
locks are isolated from villages and towns, and 114 of the 243 bridges over the canal are footpath and farm
crossings rather than roads. The canal route is surprisingly remote from civilization, although a succession of
villages and the towns of Banbury, Napton, Braunston, Hillmorton and Rugby offer services for cruising boats.

The canal is at its most isolated and idyllic between Thrupp and Lower Heyford, often so thick with woods on
both sides that the waterway cannot be seen from the surrounding open hills. In spots the trees form a tunnel
completely overhead and the view from the boat is entirely natural except for old stone walls.

At Lower Heyford the rail station is directly across from Oxfordshire Narrowboats, connected by a footbridge
over the canal, making this an easy place to start a hire-boat cruise if arriving by rail. About one-half mile away
is Rousham House and gardens, one of several grand private manors in the area that are open to the public, but
the only one that can be reached on foot from a canal mooring. At Upper Heyford the large and formerly very
busy American airbase has now been closed, adding greatly to the near-total peace and quiet of the region (there
is an occasional low-flying fighter jet on a training mission from another base, usually blasting past with little
advance warning.)

Aynho Wharf remains a good example of the original purpose of the canal; a red brick warehouse is intact,
although now it houses a general store and canal souvenir shop. This is also a hire-boat base and boatbuilding
yard. The green field to the west is dotted with hundreds of sheep, making it clear that this is farming country
canal continues through woodlands of poplars and willows and the Kings Sutton lock retains its two-century
old keeper's cottage, stables and blacksmith's shop, the M40 motorway joins with the rail line to bracket the
canal as it turns toward Banbury. While the passing trains are intermittent and in fact a pleasing sound to some
of us, the steady drone of the motorway intrudes on the peace and quiet that we have been enjoying.

Maybe it's for the best, because the highway traffic has alerted us that we are approaching Banbury with its
factories, box-like apartment buildings, shopping centers, chain-store warehouses and a reputation that matches
London and Manchester as risky places to moor (because of vandalism and theft.) British Waterways is working
hard to give the area a new lease on life as the Castle Quay shopping center redevelopment proceeds, with new
mooring quays, a hydraulic lift bridge and removal of debris from the navigation channel. Tooley's Boatyard has
survived since 1780 and is being incorporated into the Banbury history museum. Just outside the construction
rea, Sovereign Narrowboats offers overnight mooring at their pleasant marina. This is just a short walk from the
town center, and probably a better choice than Castle Quay, but seek local advice here for current suggestions.

The other side of Banbury (meant both figuratively and literally) is the old market town and a 19th century
replica of the ancient cross of "Ride a Cock Horse to Banbury Cross", although the heavy volume of car traffic
through the narrow streets would make this a very harrowing ride today.
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Oxford Canal

Modern life is quickly left behind, however, after passing under the M40 for the last time and again finding the
typical Oxford Canal of isolated natural surroundings and small villages. Bourton Lock is postcard-perfect and
beautifully kept, a sigh of relief after the construction and general bustle of the city. Soon the stone cottages and
wharf of Cropredy can be seen ahead; the lovely village sits on the west bank of the canal, its quiet winding
streets welcoming walkers to admire the well-landscaped homes and the sandstone church. Visitor moorings are
provided north of Cropredy Lock, a very pleasant overnight base. Depending on your personal point of view, a
visit to Cropredy can be either planned or avoided during the second weekend in August, when Europe's largest
Folk Festival takes place. It is centered on the group Fairport Convention, who started it all in 1979; one local
pub, the Brasenose Arms, is featured on an album cover.

North of Cropredy there are eight locks in less than two miles, but the last of these, Claydon Top Lock, leads
onto the summit pound, four or five meandering hours to the Napton flight. (Don't get me wrong, locks are a
major part of the fun and interest of a canal trip, but the manual locks can be fatiguing and to simply cruise for
a few hours is great for relaxation.) But don't rush off on this section; a 15-minute walk across open landscape
nto Claydon is well worth it. There are no shops or pubs, but there is a tearoom amid the cottages built from
Oxfordshire honey-colored sandstone as well as the Bygones Museum of local relics from the last two centuries.

Between Claydon and Fenny Compton Wharf the route twists and turns for another two miles, then straightens
out through the Fenny Compton Tunnel, a mile-long tunnel that's not a tunnel, it's an open cut with steep wooded
banks. (The original brick-roofed tunnel was removed in 1868 to eliminate delays for busy commercial traffic.)

The Oxford Canal is a typical example of a "contour" canal, which meanders to follow the contour of the terrain
and minimize the number of locks. Between Claydon and Napton, an eleven-mile-long summit pound (the
highest section of the canal) covers only 4.8 miles "as the crow flies". Boats passing the loop around
Wormleighton Hill will see the Eiffel-like antenna tower on the hill at every point on the compass.

The canal descends through nine locks as it approaches Napton, on its way to a junction with the Grand Union
Canal. The hill at Napton is prominent, standing tall and alone amid the rolling fields; the famous windmill at
the top of the hill is visible for miles. The last mile of the southern Oxford makes a sharp kink around the base
of the hill to the Napton Junction - Braunston Turn link: this five-mile section is pivotal to the entire waterway
network of England. The Grand Union and the Oxford Canal share this link as their routes cross, the Grand
Union arriving on a direct line from London and continuing northwest through to Birmingham and the Oxford
forming the other leg of the X from the upper Thames, bypassing Birmingham on the east.

Braunston Turn has historically been a focal point of the canal system, a crossroads and base for many of the
coal carriers and working boats during the heyday of the canals before traffic went to the railroads and highways.
The regional British Waterways office is located at the "Stop House", an old tollhouse on the edge of the canal at
the entrance to Braunston Marina; the Exhibition Room here is filled with canal guides and historical exhibits.
There are more than a dozen boatbuilders on the Oxford, several of them located in workshops adjacent to the
marina. These shops house companies cutting, fitting and welding the steel shells of new boats, painting and
outfitting the completed boat, or servicing existing boats. Others are chandlers, rope & fender suppliers or engine
specialists. The flourishing Braunston canal center also offers daytrips and dinner tours, as well as hire-boats.
The village itself stretches along a ridge overlooking the canal junction, a nice shopping street with a local pub,
The Old Plough. If you want to see a composite of historical and modern canal boating in England, stop at
Braunston.
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Oxford Canal

The Northern Oxford between Braunston and Coventry passes through mostly open countryside, although a rail
line is nearby between Rugby and Coventry and the final mile runs directly alongside the busy M6 motorway.
This section of the canal was straightened in the 1830's to its current length of 22 miles (shortening the distance
by 14 miles and saving perhaps 3 to 4 hours for the commercial carriers of the time), with just one flight of
three paired locks at Hillmorton. The paired locks were another time-saver, as boats could pass through the
flight two at a time. The northern section carried substantial freight even after the southern section lost most of
its competitiveness following the opening of the Grand Union, a more direct route to London, at the turn of the
19th century.

The canal route skirts around the urban borough of Rugby and its suburb Hillmorton. The city of Rugby is the
home of Rugby School, where the sport of Rugby football was created in 1823 (an interesting tie-in with the
Rugby museum on the Canal du Midi in France.) Guided tours of the school are available, and the school offers
a museum in the center of the city. The Rugby area boasts four major hire-boat bases: Rose Narrowboats, 1.5
miles northwest of the city, operates a very complete rental fleet, chandlery, bookstore and general store at
Stretton-under-Fosse. Located along the canal at the edge of the city are Willow Wren Hire Cruisers, Clifton
Cruisers and Club Line Cruisers.

The northern Oxford Canal joins the Coventry Canal at Hawkesbury Junction, near the northern limits of the city
of Coventry. Originally called Sutton Stop after the first toll clerk here, it's a location with a great deal of history.
There was intense competition among the various highly profitable canal operators in the late 18th century, and t
he Coventry Canal Company, which was chartered in 1769 (one year earlier than the Oxford) insisted that the
junction be at Longford, one mile south, in order to gain the revenues from that distance. The two canals
therefore ran parallel, just yards apart, until 1835; the Oxford Canal Company then agreed to make compensating
payments and the new junction was opened. Even then, a single-gate stop lock was installed to prevent the
xford from "stealing" water from the Coventry.

Sutton Stop was an important freight-carrying junction, where boatmen would congregate at the Greyhound Pub
while awaiting orders. Although nearly all of the commercial traffic has disappeared from the narrow canals, t
here is an occasional working boat that will load coal here, to be sold in bags along the canal (some residential
narrowboats still use coal instead of the more common bottled gas or diesel fuel for heating and cooking.)
Hawkesbury Junction is now a pleasant mooring spot and center of historic buildings that attracts visitors by car
as well as by boat.
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Oxford Canal

The Bridges of the Oxford Canal:

Wooden lift bridges are a well-known feature of the canal; there are thirty-eight of them between Oxford and
Banbury, operated by simply pulling down on large counterweight wooden beams. The lift bridges were an
accommodation for farmers, to allow them to cross the canal, and are commonly left open (raised position) for
boats to pass through without stopping. Use care when boating through however, as the bridges do not rise fully
vertical.

Graceful cast-iron towpath bridges, beautifully painted and maintained in black and white, sweep in graceful
arcs over and alongside the canal. There are also stone arch bridges over the canal such as the Nell Bridge,
which was built about 1787 and carried major highway traffic on its extremely narrow width for nearly two
hundred years until the nearby M40 motorway was opened. A different type of historic bridge is near Shipton,
one of three railway bridges that cross the twisting path of the canal/river in less than two miles. On Christmas
Eve of 1874 nine cars of a derailed train plunged off the bridge and onto the frozen canal, killing 34 passengers.

Locks
All locks on the Oxford Canal are manually operated by the crew of each passing boat. The crew must carry
with them a windlass (crank handle) that fits onto a gear system to open or close the paddles located in the lock
gates or in a side sluice. After the lock has filled or drained, the gate is opened by walking a balance beam
through a quarter-turn arc. An unusual feature on this canal is the use in some locks of a single gate, rather than
the two mitered gates generally used. This was done to cut costs, but it makes for a relatively heavy gate, slow
to move with the beam.

The locks at Aynho Weir and Shipton Weir are laid out in a diamond shape (each sidewall is bayed-out,
connecting to standard-size gates at each end.) This design was chosen because these are very shallow locks
(1' and 2'5" respectively) and the additional volume is needed to pass sufficient water downstream, without the
expense and operating problems of wider doors that would be required with a rectangular lock. A benefit of the
design is that four narrowboats can lock-through side by side (taking their turn through the gate, of course.)

Somerton Deep Lock is the other extreme, at 12 ft rise/descent and the standard narrow canal gauge width of
7 ft. It is tied for the deepest lock on the entire narrow-canal system, about the proportions of a shoebox turned
on its side.

The Hillmorton locks, located at the workshops of the Oxford Canal Company, were "twinned" in 1840, adding
a second flight of locks alongside to form three pairs of narrow locks and thus double the number of potential
boat movements. The additional locks also save water, as a set of central sluices allow the adjacent lock basin to
erve as a side pound to collect water.

The Oxford Canal Walk

The towpath along the Oxford Canal is continuous for the entire 83 miles from Oxford to Coventry. It passes
beside 43 locks, numerous wooden lift bridges and cast-iron towpath bridges and through one tunnel, yet it
crosses only one road. There are brief visits to Banbury and Rugby, but the canal and its path travel through
isolated, peaceful countryside and small villages. Many other public footpaths crisscross the region and connect
with the canal towpath; these can be followed to villages and sites off the canal. It is ideal for walking ahead of
the boat, or to cut off the loops of the waterway and meet the boat again several miles ahead. Or, if you are
visiting the area but not aboard a boat, it can be an excursion of its own, returning to the starting point by bus.
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Tour Rating: Pleasant, picturesque, a must-do cruise
Navigation Difficulty: Easiest Type: Narrow

The Oxford Canal was an early and important link to London via the River Thames
ENGLAND
from the industrial Midlands. Commercial traffic ceased in the 1950's but it
remains one of England's busiest canals for pleasure boating. It was built
as a contour canal; the meandering route of the Southern section (Oxford to
WALES
Napton) remains as completed in 1790. The Northern section (Braunston to
Hawkesbury Junction) was straightened and shortened in the 1820's. LONDON

Hawkesbury
Stretton-under-Fosse
Oxford Canal, Northern Newbold Tunnel (204 yards)
Length: 22 miles Coventry
Clifton-on-Dunsmore
Number of Locks: 4 Rugby Hillmorton
(1 stop lock, 3 paired locks)
Minimum Depth: 2 ft 9 in Braunston
Minimum Height: 6 ft Grand Union Canal
Grand Union Canal
Lock Size: 70 ft X 7 ft Calcutt
Napton Oxford & Grand Union Canals,
Braunston to Napton
Fenny Length: 5 miles
Oxford Canal, Southern Compton Number of Locks: None
Length: 48 miles Minimum Depth: 2 ft 6 in
Claydon
Number of Locks: 39 Minimum Height: 7 ft 6 in
Minimum Depth: 2 ft 9 in Cropredy
Minimum Height: 6 ft 6 in
Lock Size: 72 ft X 6 ft 10 in Banbury

Season: Open All Year

Aynho
Possible water shortages
Charts & Guidebooks: during dry summer months.
Pearson's Canal Companion, For information on conditions
Grand Union-Oxford-River Nene and maintenance stoppages,
Lower Heyford
Nicholson Guide #1, and to obtain the required
London-Grand Union-Oxford-Lee Enslow
windlass to operate the locks,
GEO Projects map, Oxford Canal Kidlington
contact British Waterways,
Cumberlidge/Imray, Braunston, Tel 01788 890666
Inland Waterways of Great Britain, Fax 01788 890222
pages 175-177.
Oxford
Osney
Thames river
Elevation, feet
200
Hawkesbury Napton Claydon
150 Cropredy
Braunston Banbury
Rugby
100 Aynho
Lower Heyford
50
Kidlington
Oxford
0 0 miles 15 22 30 42 45 49 55 60 70 75
Lock No. 1 2-7 8 16 17-22 25 29 33 36 37 42
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Note: Telephone numbers shown on this Sites Self-Skippered Boat Rental Bases
page start with 0 for calls within England; The historic city of Oxford is the home of These companies operate hire boat bases
to call from other countries dial +44 and the oldest university in England; along with at these towns (* also offer moorings for
omit the first 0. touring the colleges, visit the Ashmolean overnight stays.)
Museum of archaeology. Be sure to check out the cabin plan care-
Telephones Rousham House, a 17th century manor fully before booking to select a suitable
BT public telephones are readily available and gardens, is open for public visits (a boat for your needs (many boats maximize
in towns but not at the locks; most accept short walk from Lower Heyford wharf.) the number of berths, at the expense of
coins or cards. Blenheim Palace is described as the other comforts.)
Mobile phones are widely used, but greatest building of the English Baroque; it Oxford College Cruisers
make sure yours is compatible (most US was the birthplace of Winston Churchill. Tel 01865 554343
phones are not) and purchase a prepaid The palace and its large hunting park are Fax 01865 552403
SIM card at a cell-phone shop in England. the major tourist destination of the area. www.collegecruisers.com
This card will come with its own tele- (2.5 miles west of Thrupp) Lower Oxfordshire Narrowboats
phone number. Heyford Tel 01869 340348
Hotel Boats www.oxfordshire-
Useful Addresses English hotel boats travel along a variety of narrowboats.co.uk
canals rather than back-and-forth between Lower Anglo-Welsh Waterway
British Waterways
two points; these boats include the Oxford Heyford Holidays, Tel 01179 241200
The Stop House, Braunston
Canal in their route: Fax 01179 240202
Northants NN11 7JQ
www.anglowelsh.co.uk
Tel 01788 890666 Hind & Hart
Aynho Aynho Wharf Boatbuilders*
Fax 01788 890222 Conwy & Caernarfon
Tel 01869 338483
www.britishwaterways.co.uk Brackley & Ellesmere
Banbury Sovereign Narrowboats*
e-mail: stop@soog.globalnet.co.uk Duke & Duchess
Tel/Fax 01295 275657
National Rivers Authority Rose & Castle
Napton Napton Narrowboats*
King’s Meadow House Dawn & Dusk Tel 01926 813644
Reading RG1 8DQ Caldon & Ashby Fax 01926 815471
Tel: 01189 535533 Tranquil Rose www.napton-marina.co.uk
Tourist Information Centers: Bittel & Earlswood Calcutt Calcutt Boats*
Oxford, Gloucester Green For details, contact: (Grand Tel 01926 813757
Tel 01865 726871 Drifters Hotel Boats, PO Box 232, Union C.) Fax 01926 814091
Banbury, 8 Horsefair Worcester WR1 2SD, UK Braunston Union Canal Carriers
Tel 01295 259855 Tel 01905 610440 Tel 01788 890784
Rugby, Little Elborow Street www.canal-cruises.com Fax 01788 891950
Tel 01788 535348 Hillmorton Club Line Cruisers*
Ports (marinas with full services, in addi- Tel 02476 258864
Hotels tion to those listed under Self-Skippered Fax 02476 223663
Oxford, River Hotel, Botley Road Boat Rentals) Rugby Willow Wren Hire Cruisers*
Tel 01865 243475 Oxford Osney Marina Tel 01788 562183
Braunston, Mill House, London Rd. Tel Tel 01865 241348 Fax 01788 540540
01788 890450 Enslow Kingsground Narrowboats www.willowwren.co.uk
Rugby, Golden Lion Inn, Easenhall Wharf, Tel 01869 351321 Rugby Viking Afloat
Tel 01788 832265 Fax 01788 832878 Kidlington Fax 01869 233444 Tel 01905 610660
Fenny Cowroast Fax 01905 616715
Compton Tel 01295 770461 www.viking-afloat.com
Pubs & Restaurants are located along or
Fax 01295 770820 Clifton- Clifton Cruisers*
near the canal at frequent intervals; they
www.cowroastmarinas.co.uk on- Tel 01788 543570
are listed and described in the recommend-
Braunston Braunston Marina Dunsmore Fax 01788 579799
ed guidebooks, Nicholson’s and Pearson’s.
Tel 01788 891373 www.cliftoncruisers.com
Fax 01788 891436 Stretton- Rose Narrowboats*
Rail Stations (near to) www.braunstonmarina.co.uk under-Fosse Tel 01788 832449
Oxford (Osney) Hillmorton Blue Haven Marine Fax 01788 832545
Tackley (Enslow) Tel 01788 540149 www.roseboat.demon.co.uk
Lower Heyford
King’s Sutton (Aynho) Maps
Banbury The road atlas Philip’s Navigator, Britain
Rugby shows exceptional detail not only of roads
but also of canals, marinas, footpaths, rail
lines & stations and larger towns. It is
available from the Inland Waterway Assn
mail order book service.
Tel 01923 711114, Fax 01923 897000
iwa@waterways.org.uk
Thames river

Tower Bridge, London

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Travels on the River by Martin Swain

All great rivers conjure up associations, merely at the mention of their name - the Rhine, the Danube, the
Mississippi, the Amazons, etc. But although it is one of the shortest (a mere 215 miles (300 km) long) the
Thames not only recalls any number of mind-pictures but it has also inspired art and literature, and seen so
much history. Or does it just seem like that because I'm a British ex-pat? "Oh to be in England now that
April's there"

The Houses of Parliament, the signing of Magna Charta at Runnymede, Windsor Castle, Hampton Court,
all those fogs of literary London, the famous university of Oxford, paintings by Canaletto, Turner, Monet,
Whistler, Alfred Hitchcock floating downstream at the beginning of "Frenzy", Thomas Moore being rowed
home in disgrace in a "Man for All Seasons", "Three Men in a Boat" and "Wind in the Willows", and many
more.

So it is hardly surprising that it creates a certain fascination. Altogether we have made five narrow boat
trips on the Thames and associated waterways at different times of year over a period of more than 10 years.
I do not intend to give a lock-by-lock account nor do I claim that my information is up to date. Rather I shall
try to relate something of the fascination that it has had on us with the odd anecdote or other connected with
our travels.
Our first tour (2 weeks) was made as a family (my wife and
I and both daughters) starting in Abingdon (at left), upstream
to the end of navigation on the river Thames at Lechlade and
then back to Oxford for part of the Southern Oxford Canal.
We traveled as far as Cropredy before returning to Abingdon.
All the subsequent trips were made by just my wife and
myself.

The second tour (4 day short break) started in Aldermaston

on the Kennet and Avon Canal, went on through Reading on
the Thames as far as Marlow.

Then followed a fortnight trip from Abingdon downstream to

Hampton Court and back.

The fourth tour was a week doing the London Ring, a circle
of the Thames and three sections of the Grand Union Canal.

Finally, 10 days on the River Wey Navigation and the Thames

through to Richmond.

So we have covered all the navigable parts of the Thames except Richmond to Brentford , and the tidal bit
from Limehouse around the S-curves at Greenwich to the Thames barrier.
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Travels on the River
Braunston

Cropredy
So
uth
e Gr
Ox rn an
for d
d Un
Ca ion
na Ca
l
na
l t
tor
rS
ve
OXFORD Ri

ee
er L
Lechlade Abingdon

Riv
Marlow LONDON
Henley Limehouse

Reading Brentford Thames Estuary

Windsor
Richmond Thames
Barrier
Aldermaston Hampton Teddington Lock
Kennet and Avon Canal nal Court (tidal limit)
gsto ke Ca
Basin
Wey

Guildford
er
Riv

Thames river
Godalming

1st Tour, 2 weeks: 2nd Tour, 4 days: 4th Tour, 1 week:

Abingdon to Lechlade,
Upper Thames.
Lechlade to Cropredy,
Southern Oxford Canal.
Cropredy to Abingdon.
Aldermaston, 5th Tour, 10 days: London Ring
Kennet & Avon Canal, Wey Navigation
to Marlow, Thames. and Thames to
Richmond.
3rd Tour, 2 weeks:
Abingdon to
Another Possible Tour:
Hampton Court
The "Grand Circle" or "South of England Circuit"
and return.
Take the Grand Union, Southern Oxford and Thames
London - Braunston - Oxford - Reading - Brentford
Described in the catalogues as "an energetic fortnight
or an interesting three week cruise"!!
Don't forget that you will need a narrow boat for the
Oxford.
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Travels on the River

Boats
As opposed to virtually all the other waterways in the United Kingdom, much of the Thames has no significant
size limitations. So the traditional narrowboats are in a select minority. There are vessels of all sorts, shapes and
sizes, propelled by everything from steam to elbow grease. On the stretches nearer to London there are large
tourist boats plying their routes and you even find some working boats. Near the larger towns there are skiffs
and sculls and racing eights, and in some places even sailing regattas. There are some slightly oversized,
obviously privately owned yachts that behave as though they also privately own the river, just as, no doubt,
their owners back on dry land in their grand automobiles believe they own the motorways! There are small blue
chartered cruisers with 3 generations of holidaymakers trying to make everyone on board enjoy it. There are
canoes and kayaks, and rafts and row-boats. There are launches of historical value, highly polished mahogany
woodwork with a gleaming steam engine, the crew in suitable period costume. There are young lads propelling
GRP hulls that look as it they have just been lifted from the depths. There is always something of interest to see.
But particularly on summer weekends one does need one's wits about one.

However on the Thames in Oxford there is a low bridge (Osney Bridge)

that only the smaller craft can pass. From there on, whether continuing
on the Thames or turning onto the Oxford Canal, only those vessels that
lie low in the water and the narrow boats have it all to themselves.
Tranquillity and peace reside.

When you are choosing your charter boat bear in mind where you want
to cruise, and which creature comforts you want on board. If you want
to explore the associated waterways as we have done then you will need
a narrowboat for the Oxford Canal, the Kennet and Avon Canal and the
Wey Navigation. For the London Ring there are wide beam narrowboats
available.

We made all our cruises on narrowboats (we are aficionados), of which

there are many variants in the interior design, but all share the exterior
aft steering position.
Locks and Locks Porta Bella Dock
Locks are those mechanical wonders that allow boats to change water levels, and that cause the first-time boater
so many unnecessary headaches. Now the nice thing about the Thames is that the locks are all manned, and
very well managed. I have nothing but respect for the lock keepers on the Thames who in general are not only
friendly and helpful but keep their lock environment so well kept that it is a shame that we are only in transit.
Flowers and tidy paths - what a delight. But the lock keeper is lord of all he surveys; his word is law! He is of
course not just there to let you through on your holiday; he is responsible for the water flow all the year round
and to make sure London does not flood. Therefore, when the lock keeper goes off for lunch or stops work in
the evening be understanding.

On our last tour we had moored for the night at Weybridge with a grandstand view across to Shepperton Lock.
It was Summer Bank Holiday Monday. There was an enormous tailback of vessels coming downstream,
returning to their moorings nearer to London. A Dutch barge hotel ship had problems coming out of the lock
and the tension rose by the minute. The queue grew longer and the crews' tempers shorter. At more than half an
hour past the posted time the lock keeper announced that he was going home (he had been on duty since early
that morning!).
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Travels on the River

The voices of the skippers of large white yachts started to rise above the twittering of the birds and the lapping
of the water on our side of the river. Although it is permitted, none of those vessels made use of the lock out of
hours, but waited for the lock keeper to return the next morning, unloading their bad moods once again. When
we passed through the lock going upstream a little later the lock keeper was remarkably humorous about the
whole affair. 2

Immediately off the Thames, however,

regardless of whether you are on the canals
or the River Wey Navigation, once past the
first lock you are on your own! These locks
are sometimes hard to work, pushing the
beams and turning the paddles, but more than
often there is someone willing to help and to
have a chat, sometimes even walking along
for another lock or two. On the busier
stretches in any case there is a frequent
coming-and-going of boats and their crews
to share the load. The locks on the London
Ring have locks (padlocks); although there
are not a lot of locks round the back of London
they are kept locked for fear of vandalism.

Many of the locks on the Thames are worth a journey in themselves,

but off the Thames they are no less attractive, like Coxes Lock on the
River Wey or the 12 ft Somerton Deep Lock (shown at right) with
vegetation growing on the lock gate, or interesting, like County Lock
in Reading or Hampstead Road Lock by Camden Market.
But if you're on a narrowboat none is quite as impressive for size and
height as Commercial Road Lock from Limehouse Basin into the
Thames, that releases you from the confines of the canal into the
majesty of the tidal Thames!

2 The situation is hardly new, as E. J. Gregory's painting of Boulter's Lock Sunday Afternoon of 1895 confirms. Go to
http://www.postershop.com/Gregory-E/Gregory-E-BoulterS-Lock-Sunday-Afternoon-2500523.html
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Travels on the River

Left and Right of the Waterway

Our initial impression from our first tour was one of the unspoiled nature and rural tranquillity of the Thames,
apart from the bustle of Oxford on a summer afternoon. Later we learnt to be more discerning. Around the towns
the river changes its character. But it is never boring; there
is always plenty to see, whether it is an abundance of
wildlife (ducks, coots, moorhens, kingfishers, herons, the
evening patrol of the Canada geese, partridge, water
snake, - one evening we watched a fox watching a family
of ducks) or the ever changing landscape, sometimes flat,
sometimes hilly, here a wooded valley, there arable pasture-
land, the long frontage of Windsor Great Park or
Cliveden Reach.

And then as you approach the towns the backs of houses,

single town houses, semi-detached and terraced, and their
gardens, some smart, others formally casual, some wildly
natural, some used to repair a car, a churchyard and some
warehouses. On the London Ring it is more industrialised with some areas under redevelopment, offices with
smokers on the balcony, and then again long stretches of parkland, like Victoria Park or Regent's Park (London
Zoo). An open-air rock festival at King's Meadow Reading, picnickers at Runnymede and a group of homeless
under a bridge in Bethnal Green.

But nothing can compare to cruising down on the tide from Limehouse towards the unique and impressive
panorama of London, passing the Tower of London, the Houses of Parliament, Lambert Palace, Battersea and
Chelsea Harbour.

Of course, you do not need to stay on your boat all the time; there is plenty to explore near the river. There are
any number of tourist attractions nearby: Kew Gardens, Hampton Court, Windsor Castle, the city of Oxford, as
well as a number of interesting small towns, Henley, Marlow, Reading, Wallingford, Dorchester, Abingdon,
some of Roman origin. Out in the country there are any number of picturesque villages or country houses worth
a visit, or a view to admire from the top of a hill (e.g. Sinodun Hill or Lough Down) across the river valley, or
from Primrose Hill across London.

If you choose the London Ring you can explore London from the back, the "wrong" side, the less public side,
but in many ways the more interesting side. Islington with its antique shops, where among others Tony Blair
has his town house, Regent's Park and Marylebone with its Georgian and Regency architecture, Camden Town
(more antiques in the Market), Little Venice and from Porta Bella Port it's a short walk to the Portabella Road
market and Notting Hill. And from anywhere along the Regent's Canal arm it is only a short bus ride to the
West End or the City.

If you want to put some of your crew ashore there is the Thames Path, which since its recent completion enables
you to walk from Lechlade to Thames Barrier for most of the way directly alongside the river. There are a few
places where due to ownership problems the path has to leave the river for a while.

It is a good idea not only to take a camera but also a pair of binoculars with you.
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Travels on the River

Bridges
How many bridges there are across the Thames would be a suitable question for Trivial Pursuit, and I would
have to pass! Some are world famous - Tower Bridge, London Bridge (is falling down), Westminster Bridge
(painted by Monet), Chelsea Bridge (music by Duke Ellington), Waterloo (Sunset, by the Kinks), and Walton
Bridge (painted by Whistler), Richmond Bridge (painted by
Turner, but shown at right in a recent photo).

And then there is Blackfriars Bridge under which the body

of a Vatican banker was mysteriously found hanging some
years ago. There are also modern bridges carrying the
motorways out of London, all constructed with a certain
respect for the older waterways.

There are also a number of lesser known bridges with better

known pubs, Henley with the 14th Century "Angel" pub,
Marlow with the 16th Century "Compleat Angler", Clifton Hampden with the Barley Mow (to which I shall
return later), the "Trout" at Godstow, or Sonning with its pretty white stone hotel and village. Kingston also
has a mighty bridge, but the town, although it prides itself with the name "Kingston-on-Thames", seems to
ignore the river completely. We found no suitable mooring although the town has a considerable river frontage,
so we did what the town had done to us; turned our backs and cruised further.

By no means do you go under all the bridges. Between Islington and Park Royal the Paddington Arm crosses
over the 4-lane motorway on the great North Circular Aqueduct, and on the canals and the Wey Navigation there
are bridges that have to be moved aside before you pass. One such swing bridge on the Kennet and Avon
caused, as I recall, a crew of only two persons some difficulties as there were neither adequate landing nor
mooring facilities. But our fondest bridge memory is of cruising directly under Tower Bridge and seeing what
looked like ants scurrying along London Bridge - commuters on their way to work, crossing from London
Bridge railway station to the City.

Shopping
One of the reasons we would have liked to have moored at Kingston was because of its shops near the river.
Modern supermarkets are generally sited for the motorcar. This invariably means that they are away from town
centres. The village store of a few years ago is more and more difficult to find resulting in having to carry
provisions over longer distances to the boat. Luckily there are a few exceptions worth of note, supermarkets
with their own quay for boaters. You can push your trolley almost into the boat. In Reading, not far from the
junction with the Kennet and Avon Canal, there is one, and on the Grand Union Canal there is the wonderful
24 hour Tesco at Bulls Bridge Hayes, at the Junction with the Paddington Arm. Further along there are two
Sainsbury's, one at Alperton, the other at Porta Bella Port. There is another Sainsbury at the southern most end
of the Wey Navigation, in Godalming.

There were also good shops in East Molesey, on the other side of Hampton Court Bridge from the palace, and
in several other towns along the river it was possible to moor up and go shopping (Staines, Windsor,
Maidenhead, Marlow, Wallingford, Oxford). The guide book entries regarding shops are from our experience
to be taken with caution.
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Travels on the River

Pubs and Restaurants

If you don't find a shop to buy the evening meal you can always eat out! In many cases that is easier as the river
and its bridges have, as we saw above, always attracted pubs, hotels and restaurants. But here too caution is
recommended. Not all pubs are like the "Bounty" at Cookham that displayed a sign on the door "Muddy boots,
dogs and children welcome". Some have a reputation to keep, it would appear for high prices rather than quality,
and some are out of favour with themselves and seem depressing. The famous "Barley Mow" in Clifton
Hampden, where the three men of the book of that name decided to abandon their river trip, appeared to be all
neon lighting and slot machines when we were there, which was a little disconcerting!

We have eaten well in many pubs along the river; the "Trout"
at Godstow, the "Swan" at Pangbourne, the "Plough"
at Long Wittenham and the "Bull" at Sonning may be named
as representative of many, but we have also noted some to
avoid next time round!!

The Attraction of Water

At Lechlade, the end of navigation upstream on the Thames,
there are 2 turning points, the first for larger craft, the second
for smaller. There is a good reason for this as the water which
is clear and clean is also very shallow at the second - we ran
aground! We turned off the power, lightened the boat of its
crew - except for the captain. All then enjoyed the refreshing
water whilst pushing our heavy narrow boat off the sand bank!!

In fact on that first tour that was not the only occasion that members of the crew took to the water; apart from a
couple of swims (the water of the river above Oxford really is clean) there were involuntary dips. One evening
we had moored our 50ft long boat in a bend in the river so that fore and aft were touching the river bank, but
amidships was 3 or 4 feet out. My wife went to fetch something from the other end of the boat and skipped
along the gunwale. There was a splash and there she was up to her waist in the river between the boat and the
bank. Our elder daughter rushed, not to help, but to fetch her camera. She in turn took a dip when, on the
Oxford Canal, we were trying to manoeuvre with a crosswind into a lock that another boat was leaving. We
were pressed against the bank. She tried to push us off, from the bank. As she succeeded, her feet on the bank
but her hands on the boat, she became for a short moment parallel to the water before falling in. My turn came
when we were trying to moor at a field with an overhanging bank. I threw the rope ashore and jumped to follow
it, landing on the overhang which promptly descended into the river. I stood with my chin at field level and my
feet in the water whilst everyone laughed. None of these "accidents" were serious, but they show that care
should be taken, especially in the busier parts of the river.

Weather
In my logbook of our travels on the Thames I have always kept a column for the weather. It is always worth
noting down - British weather is never boring! Neither are the weather forecasts. We are convinced that there is
a competition to coin the best phrase to describe British weather phenomena. And sometimes the two do match
up. On the very last day of our fifth tour I noted "The weather forecast indicated showers in the morning and
rain in the afternoon - spot on!" but that was unusual. Both the wetness and the accuracy.
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Travels on the River

In general we have had pretty good weather on our tours. It has not always been as hot as it was that August on
our very first tour, the fields yellow after a long dry spell. The only reason we turned round at Cropredy was
that the locks further up the Oxford Canal were only opening a couple of hours a day due to a lack of water.
Sometimes we were grateful to have packed a thick woollen pullover, either early mornings or in the evening,
but we did not need them all day, except sometimes during our April or May tours.

Water Quality
Fresh water for use on board is available at a number of the locks, or nearby in a boatyard, sometimes free of
charge, sometimes for a small fee. All hire boats using the river have sewage collection on board and there are
likewise a number of pump-out stations along the river. In general the Thames is very clean, as I have already
mentioned. Unfortunately the same cannot always be said of the associated waterways. Particularly the London
Ring. The boat yard warned us to watch out for supermarket trollies and old bicycles, and explained how to free
the propeller of plastic bags or other rubbish. We didn't have any problems, but we did have to free a fish that had
got entangled in a milk crate in, of all places, Salmon Lane Lock! And why is the canal used as a tip? A worker
at a boat yard said it's the "wogs ". An elderly man at Hanwell Top Lock said it's the kids. A younger man we
met at Mile End Lock said "We are incorrigible. I tell my children there are sharks in the canal, to stop them
swimming in it like I used to do!" 3

Hi-lights
So what among all these travel souvenirs do we treasure most? Well, there is for both
my wife and myself no doubt that Day 6 of our fourth tour was the most memorable.
Up at 6:30; at 8 am on the dot we entered Commercial Road Lock. The lockkeeper
gave us some papers regarding work in progress on several bridges, and then we
dropped about 2 meters. The gates opened and there ahead was a vast stretch of grey
water. We headed out into the flow of the Thames and were hurried along by the
in-coming tide; we had never moved so fast in a narrow boat! The banks seemed so
far away compared with a canal. We rounded the Lower Pool at Wapping and there
straight ahead was Tower Bridge and the London panorama.

At nine we were in front of the houses of Parliament at Westminster to be greeted by

Big Ben. Unfortunately, in a rented narrow boat you are not allowed to stop en route
as the locks, both at Limehouse and Brentford, are only open for a short time before
and after high tide. The same applies for Teddington Lock if you are coming down
stream. Some rental companies do not even permit their boats on the tidal Thames. By 10:30 we had then
arrived at the entrance to the Grand Union Canal at Brentford. It had all happened far too fast, so we moored up
and went for a walk in Kew Gardens to let the impressions sink in! An unforgettable experience.

The second memorable event was arriving at

Hampton Court on a sunny afternoon and
mooring directly below the golden palace
gates with a view across the gardens to the
palace itself. Magic!

3 "Wogs" is very politically incorrect. Derived from

golliwog, a black-faced doll (I had one as a child!!),
it now usually refers to the immigrants from India
and Pakistan.
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Travels on the River

Guide Books
There are a lot of books that have been written about the Thames. For our boating holidays I have used the
standard Nicholson Guide to the Waterways. The new edition, with coloured maps and combining the Thames,
Wey and Kennet and Avon is spiral ring bound and, therefore, easier to handle, but not necessarily more
accurate than older editions. The information regarding the river itself, the locks, etc. is excellent, but, we were
told that the publishers rely on contacting the local authorities to up-date their information, and not on doing on
the spot research. That is the reason for my reservations in connection with shopping and places to eat.

Much of the enjoyment of exploring the back of London was due to Dorling & Kindersley's London guide book,
and the Aerofilms Guide to the Thames Path published by Ian Allan is a wonderful collection of aerial views to
supplement the maps. There are, however, many other guidebooks of which I have no practical experience.
We have on several occasions bought some old travel books about the Thames second-hand. It is often very
entertaining trying to relocate places or retrace walks that someone wrote about 50 years ago. In any case a
second-hand book shop is always worth a visit, and there are a lot along the river.

Planning Your Route

It is important to decide what you want to see and do before you start, and how much time you have available.
Our first trip was a family holiday and our particular interest for the Thames grew from that. It is very difficult
to plan everything before you start. On our third tour we cruised from our starting point Abingdon down-stream
to Hampton Court in just a few days, noting places of interest on the way, and then cruising leisurely back
upstream in a week and a half, visiting those places en route. That worked well, for us!

If you intend to go for the London Ring or the South of England Circuit then you must check the tides to avoid
surprises and delays. Personally I would not recommend either of these for beginners. Start with a leisurely
cruise along the royal Thames between Hampton Court and Windsor, with the luxury of lockkeepers. Perhaps a
tour from Oxford, after visiting the colleges, out into the rural tranquillity. Or enjoy watching the crowds on a
Bank Holiday weekend.

Whatever you decide remember what Rat said to Mole : " Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -
absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." 4

For More Information

Some websites regarding boating, walking, cycling, driving, eating, drinking and sleeping along the Thames:

Thames Path Online Guide www.thames-path.com

The River Thames Guide www.riverthames.co.uk

The Up River Angels Guide upriver.users.btopenworld.com

Regulations and advice from the Port of London Authority www.portoflondon.co.uk

Port of London - Pleasure Users Guide - Navigation

www.portoflondon.co.uk/display_fixedpage.cfm?site=leisure&id=223&site=leisure

4 Kenneth Grahame: "The Wind in the Willows"

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Hire-Boat Bases & Agencies
Hire-Boat Bases are shown on the map by reference number, see the list below.
Agencies can book trips with many of the bases listed, or contact the base through their website information.

OXFORD
1

Abingdon
Lechlade Benson
2, 3
LONDON
9
Reading 4 Datchet
Caversham
5 Windsor 6
7
Chertsey Heathrow
Airport

8 Guildford

Gatwick Airport
Godalming

Hire-Boat Bases:
1 - College Cruisers, Oxford www.collegecruisers.com/

2 - Crown Blue Line, Benson www.crownblueline.com/baseintro.html?base=BEN

3 - Swancraft, Benson Refer to Blakes, below

4 - Caversham Boat Services, Caversham Refer to Blakes, below

5 - Bridge Boats, Reading www.bridgeboats.com/

6 - Kris Cruisers, Datchet www.kriscruisers.co.uk/

7 - Penton Hook Marina, Chertsey Refer to Blakes, below

8 - Guildford Boathouse, Guildford www.guildfordboats.co.uk/

9 - Adelaide Marine www.holidayuk.co.uk/canals/adelaidemarine/

Booking Agencies:
Hoseasons www.hoseasons.co.uk/holidays/ukboats/royal_river_thames.html

Blakes www.blakes.co.uk/index.asp
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The London Ring
A NOTE OF CAUTION: Navigating the tidal Thames should be attempted by experienced boat users in suitably powered and
equipped craft. Regulations and details of navigating below Teddington Lock (i.e.all of the Thames through the city of London)
should be obtained from the Port of London in advance of a tidal passage.

l
ana
nC
Camden
Islington

nio
Town

U
11

rd
rtfo

Cut
Maida Hill Tunnel Islington Tunnel
12

He
249 meters Regent's 878 meters

ouse
Paddington Arm 10 Park

h
Lime
Northolt 9
Paddington
Marylebone Limehouse
8 Basin Canary
Greenford LONDON The City 3
Wharf
Westminster Southwark
7 4
Hammersmith 1
Southall Chelsea 2
6 Brentford Greenwich
Fulham Battersea
Bull's Bridge
Junction 5
There are few opportunities to moor
Richmond on the river Thames between Brentford Grand Union Canal
and Limehouse; this should be Regent's Canal
Teddington Lock considered a transit route. Thames river
Tidal Limit

1 - Thames Barrier A space-age design of steel fins spaced across the river, on which a steel barrier can be raised from the
river bed to block high tides and thus protect the city of London.

2 - Greenwich The old quarter of this town has a waterfront with great atmosphere; it is home to the Cutty Sark and the
National Maritime Museum, and is the Mean from which time and longitude is measured around the world.

3 - St Katherine's Dock A "downtown" marina near Tower Bridge, convenient to an Underground station. Separated by a lock from
the tidal Thames.

4 - Westminster Houses of Parliament buildings on north bank.

5 - Brentford Brentford Dock Marina and other marine services located at the junction of the Grand Union Canal.

6 - Adelaide Marine Marine services, narrowboat hire.

7 - Willowtree Marina Marina and other marine services, narrowboat and day boat hire.

8 - High Line Yachting Marine Services

9 - Porta Bella Dock Dock complex with market shops.

10 - Little Venice At the junction of the Paddington Arm and Regent's Canal, an area of elegant houses, colorful residential
narrowboats and excellent canalside walks. Walking visitors: enter from Edgware Rd at St John's Wood Rd.

11 - Camden Lock Centre Craft and canal center at the top of the chain of locks descending to Limehouse. Canal tour boat base.
Weekend markets for vegetables, clothing and take-away food.

12 - London Canal Museum A history of London's waterways and the canal way of life.
 Waterways of Germany

Havel river at Potsdam

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Waterways of Germany
Page 1

When planning a cruising holiday or live-aboard barge travel in Europe, most people are interested in France,
Belgium or Holland. But ignoring Germany means missing the opportunity to visit an attractive country that is
clean, well organized and where most everything works well. A wide range of geography is available to boaters,
from the salt marshes and lagoons of the north, through lush agricultural lands and rolling hills in the central
plateau, to the lakes & rivers region of Meckelenburg-Brandenburg and the don’t-miss city of Berlin.

Favorite Tourist Region

While the great and small rivers are popular with many cruisers, the major Favorite Tourist Region is the north-
eastern corner of Germany, Mecklenburg-Brandenburg-Berlin. This is a vast network of canals, rivers and lakes
both large and small. Self-skippered rental boats are available from several large bootsferien (holiday boat)
companies as well as from many small fleets at bases throughout the region. Most of these boats are competent
and comfortable motorcruisers; some are of very handsome traditional design.

The Mecklenburger Seenplatte (plain of lakes) is a band of wilderness lakes connected by small rivers, including
Germany's largest lake, the Müritzsee. This area was previously part of East Germany and has not yet seen much
of the progress of the western world since WWII, and that's a good thing. The charming old towns, wooden boat-
houses and sights such as the rococo schloss at Rheinsberg will make you feel as if you've stepped back in time.
Cruisers can anchor for a swim in some of the purest water in Europe, or for some great fishing. Visit the
towns and villages for many excellent restaurants and tourist activities.

Southeast of the Müritzsee, the Brandenburg district includes more lakes and rivers, as well as canals that lead
right into the heart of Berlin. A flurry of construction in Berlin over the past decade has resulted in the capital
city of Germany becoming an interesting combination of ultramodern design and established landmarks. A large
number of mooring places have recently been opened for the convenience of visiting boaters.

Typical comments from barge travelers:

“Re Mecklenburg:I went there in a 20 m barge and would make the following comments. Take a dinghy, it gets
you to places that you can't take a barge. You will spend a lot of time at anchor in the lakes, holding was always
good that I experienced (unlike the Dutch meres). Fuel was always difficult to get to and I sometimes had to
reverse out. We got a lot of help from the trip boats, who were also Dutch barges. The six locks can get very
congested in holiday time. Waren and Neustrelitz harbour masters could not have been more helpful. The old East
German black economy still works if you make friends, smile a lot and wait!! In the old days it must have been
the only communist economy that worked! More different than dishonest and understandable if you get to know
the state of the East German economy. The Germans are very friendly and want to help/meet foreigners. Don't
miss Templin, the Ruppiner Wasserstrasser and Lychen. All worth going to.”

“Re arriving from a trip across northern Germany: Once you get to the Brandenburg area and towards Berlin,
anchor spots are nice and easy to find. There are a number of marinas able to take a barge, i.e.Yachthafen Plaue-
Brandenburg. When in Potsdam, stay at the free mooring just as you enter the city, easy to get into the center by
bike. Berlin, with its many free parking spots (for private boats only), is awesome. Berlin is worth at least a
month for the city and the lakes all round it. You will probably hear 'Englisher sportboot' on the VHF as you go
round the city as a 25m visiting barge will spook the trip boats but they settled down when they realized that I
could drive and didn't push in.”
 Page 2
The Waterway Network
In the countries to the west, cruisers in a typical vessel can travel and moor almost anywhere on the
waterway network; in Germany, it's not so easy. You need to investigate the rivers & canals to determine which
ones fit best with your vessel, your experience and your travel plans.

A barge traveler entering from The Netherlands via the Rhine offers these comments:

“Re: Wesel-Datteln-, Dortmund-Ems-, and Mittellandkanal:

Size of canals: The entire route is pretty much the same, broad, comfortable for commercial vessels to pass.
Sides are corrugated steel almost along the entire route. Locks are large and you'll usually be assigned a spot after
two commercial barges.
Amount of commercial traffic: Quite intense, but as max. speed is 8km for the laden barges, you will find the trip
quiet and enjoyful.
Scenery: What you pass not too exciting until you get to the Brandenburg lakes. But many nice towns along to
stop at.
Moorings: Along the canal large barges will likely not fit into many commercial marinas, but the entire canal is
lined with lots of free moorings along the canal, before or after the commercial ones. A few are in more quiet
harbors, eg Datteln. Important: Unlike in other waters you are only allowed to moor where permitted (no random
tie up along the canal), but you can expect to find free moorings every 15km or so, and always at towns. Garbage
disposal at 80% of them. Many spots have electricity hookups. Purchase and load a key from a yacht shop, lock-
keeper or the water police. I ran the generator because I found the good spots often without hookup. Water only at
dedicated spots, eg Datteln, Minden - ask the commercials. There are a few 'old arms', quiet side waters of the old
canal and town harbors - usually for free and with garbage disposal, eg Münster, approx. km7 of the Mittelland-
kanal. Safety is not a problem anywhere, but stays are sometimes limited to 24hrs. Ask the commercial skippers
where to moor best for closeby supermarkets. Small towns are everywhere, but several larger markets are right at
stops. If you have bicycles you will find shopping easy.
Fuel: there are fuel stations at Datteln, Minden, Hannover. Many commerical marinas have fuel points, but they
are hard to get to with a large vessel.”

Locks
Compared to France, where there are thousands of locks and they are mostly of the relatively small Freycinet
gauge, Germany is a country of fewer and much larger locks. There are approximately 350 locks in all of
Germany, while in France there are 209 locks on the Burgundy Canal alone.

This is especially true in the flat plain in the north of Germany; the Mittelland Kanal crosses most of the country
(325 km long) with only three locks. The rivers of the central plateau of course require more locks, but even there
the longest river, the Main, needs only 34 locks along its 384-kilometer path.

The size of locks on each waterway has not been listed in the data tables which follow because they are commonly
very large; some examples:
Mittelland Kanal 220 meters length 12 meters width
Elbe-Seitenkanal 190 12
Dortmund-Ems Kanal 163 10
Elbe-Lubeck Kanal 80 12

Disclaimer
We offer in this guide an overview of the waterways for planning purposes; you should follow this up with a
careful study of the guidebooks and charts recommended to plan your routes and mooring points.
 Page 3
Through Routes - Entering from France, Netherlands, the North Sea or the Baltic Sea

From central France, the Canal du Rhône au Rhin connects with the Rhein through the Grand Canal d'Alsace
in the southwestern corner of Germany, convenient for vessels coming from the center of the French waterways
at St Jean de Losne in Burgundy.

If you are traveling from the north of France, the Canal de la Marne au Rhin joins the Rhein at Strasbourg. An
alternative is the Moselle river, which flows north from Nancy along the border of Luxembourg and becomes
the Mosel when it enters Germany near Trier, twisting another 242 km to its junction with the Rhein at Koblenz.

Looking further north, there are no connecting waterways until the Rhein flows into the Netherlands near
Nijmegen. There are no direct waterways from Belgium; traffic travels north down the Meuse river to Nijmegen
and a link with the Rhein (in the Netherlands the Rhein is named the Waal and the Meuse is the Maas.)

In northeastern Friesland there are several routes available: One is suitable only for boats up to 6.0 meters
beam; southeast of Groningen the Stadskanaal becomes the Haren-Rütenbrock Kanal at the German border and
connects with the Dortmund-Ems Kanal. Larger vessels can follow the Eemskanaal northeast from Groningen to
the town of Delfzijl and cross the Dollard bay to Emden and continue south on the river Ems into northwestern
Germany and on to the Mittelland Kanal.

There are several entry points on the North Sea: at Emden, Wilhelmshaven and Bremerhaven there is access to
the canal network of northwestern Germany. The river Elbe can be entered from the North Sea at Cuxhaven or
from the Kiel canal at Brunsbüttel for a direct route to Hamburg, Berlin or even all the way upstream to Prague.
The Kiel canal (Nord-Ost-See Kanal) is certainly a through-route, that is its purpose, to allow traffic to pass
from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea without the open-sea journey up and around Denmark. This one-day trip is
relatively easy for pleasure vessels; there is little sightseeing to be done, which is good because full attention
needs to be concentrated on avoiding the heavy commercial traffic.

Once you are on the German waterways, the major through-route west-to-east is the Mittelland Kanal. At
Magdeburg cruise northeast on the Elbe-Havel Kanal and then the Untere Havel Wasserstrasse to reach Berlin.

From the Baltic Sea, ferry routes and recreational boaters often enter northern Germany at the central port of
Travemunde/Lubeck and use the Elbe-Lubeck Kanal to the river Elbe or the Mittelland Kanal. Another option,
with easy access to Berlin, is to enter through Poland at Swinoujscie on the Stettiner Haff/Zalew Szczecinski and
use the Westoder canal, Hohensaaten-Friedrichstaler Wasserstrasse and Havel-Oder Wasserstrasse to Berlin.

THROUGH ROUTES
From To Route Waterways Distance Locks Draft Height
Netherlands Poland Mittelland Kanal 2D, 11, 12, 14, 29F, 718 km 19 1.85 m 4.0 m
29D, 29T, 29P, 29S, 29Q
Netherlands Austria Danube 2D, 2C, 6, 7, 1A 1,130 66 1.7 4.6

France (Moselle River) Austria Danube 4, 2C, 6, 7, 1A 1,106 66 1.7 4.6

France (Strasbourg) Austria Danube 2B, 2C, 6, 7, 1A 964 68 1.7 4.6

North Sea (Cuxhaven) Czech Republic Elbe River 17A, 17 725 1 3.2 4.5

North Sea Baltic Sea Kiel Kanal 25 98 0 9.5 40.0

North Sea (Emden) Poland Mittelland Kanal 21A, 21B, 12, 14, 29F, 757 13 1.5 4.0
29D, 29T, 29P, 29S, 29Q
 Page 4
The Great Rivers
Three great rivers dominate the waterways of Germany, more so than in the other countries of Europe.The
Rhine (Rhein), Danube (Donau) and Elbe (Elbe) each traverse a long route across the country and connect into
other countries to the west, east and south. Commercial barge traffic is heavy, and the river hotel ships offer an
extensive schedule of cruises throughout the tourist season.

Rhein
Everyone knows of the castles on the Rhine, and the Rhine Gorge is a very scenic section, but there is a lot
more to this river, the busiest in Europe. The Hinter-, Vorder- and Valser-rhein rise in the Swiss Alps and flow,
along with other alpine streams, into the Bodensee (Lake Constance), bordered by Germany, Switzerland and
Austria. The head of navigation for vessels on the waterway network is 147 km downstream from the Bodensee
at Rheinfelden, between the Black Forest of Germany and the urban-industrial complex at Basel, Switzerland.
For the next 185 kilometers downstream the Rhine is canalized (12 locks), then at Iffezheim it continues as an
open river (with no locks) for a total navigable length of 716 km to the Dutch border (and from there continues
to the North Sea past Rotterdam, or via a connecting canal to Amsterdam.) In the north of Germany, links with
the Mittelland Kanal allow Rhine traffic to pass through to Berlin, the Czech Republic, Poland or the Baltic.

The section from Iffizheim (adjacent to the northeastern corner of France) to Koblenz is especially fast-flowing
and requires great care. The Rhine Gorge, between Mainz and Koblenz is very scenic, a narrow river valley
between steep rocky cliffs, including the Lorelei rock.

The Rhein intersects with the Main river at Mainz, near Frankfurt, and connects via the Rhein-Main-Donau
Kanal with the Danube for a route all the way to the Black Sea. The RMDK is the highest waterway in Europe,
possibly the highest in the world that can be reached by a vessel traveling on its own bottom from the sea. At the
summit that divides the watersheds of the North Sea from the Black Sea the elevation is 406 meters above
sea level (1,339 feet.)

Depending on the flow of the river, traveling in either direction on the Rhein can be a stressful trip; commercial
traffic is heavy and those skippers may take more of the right of way than one might expect. This route may
require the services of an experienced and properly licensed skipper. It is not possible to moor along the banks of
the Rhein, nor are there stopping points along the city walls as there are in France, Belgium and Holland;
moorings must be found in protected harbors and marinas designated for small boats.

Donau
The Danube begins in the Höheschwarzwald (High Black Forest), at the top of the divide east of the Rhine valley
above Breisach; it is second only to the Volga as the longest river in Europe. The upper navigable stretch, from
Ulm to Kelheim, flows through the Bavarian countryside but can be used only by small craft, and then only with
special permission and other restrictions. At Kelheim, the Rhein-Main-Donau Kanal comes in from the north and
brings with it traffic from Western Europe. The intersection is at kilometer post 2400, 1500 miles from the Black
Sea but only 209 km (130 miles) from the border with Austria. It then passes through the Balkan states.

Elbe
The Elbe river is not as famous as the first two, but should be considered by cruising boaters. There is only one
lock on the entire 950 km distance, separating the tidal Elbe from the inland river. It is possible to travel upstream
past Prague into the rivers of the Czech Republic. In doing so, a cruiser would first pass through wild flora and
fauna of the estuary, then into a section of Germany rarely visited by those from other countries and finally past
the high sandstone cliffs in the national park on the Czech border called the Saxon Switzerland.
 Page 5
The Interior Rivers (accessible from the interior waterways)
The Neckar, Lahn, Weser, Fulda, Aller and Saale rivers offer very pleasant cruising with little or no commercial
traffic, since they are natural rivers on which a limit of navigation is eventually reached upstream. A trip up these
rivers takes you back into old Germany, with postcard towns, steep pine-covered hillsides, vineyards, castles and
cattle grazing in the fields. It is generally easier to find a comfortable mooring spot here than on the major canals
and rivers, where passing barge traffic makes it uncomfortable or even dangerous. Yacht clubs (motorboot-club
or segelsport-club) and marinas can be found for dockside stays.

Neckar
The Neckar river is navigable for 201 kilometers from Plochingen, just south of Stuttgart, to a junction with the
Rhein at Mannheim. The best stretch is the Neckartal (Neckar Valley) between Heidelberg and Heilbronn, where
the valley is steep and windy, the castles are many, and the towns are beautiful, each with a town quay, marina or
yacht club for convenient mooring. The valley is part of Germany's wine country, and vineyards are plentiful.
Along with the well-known and very picturesque Heidelburg, some favorite towns, each with their own castle,
are Neckargemuend, Hirschhorn, Eberbach, Neckarzimmern, Gundelsheim and Bad Wimpfen.

Lahn
Although the Lahn can be traveled for only 66 kilometers it is highly recommended by all who have ventured off
the Rhein and up this narrow waterway located just south of the major intersection of the Mosel and the Rhein.
The sinuous river makes its way past medieval towns, hillside castles and monasteries. Among the highlights are
Bad Ems, Diez, Weilburg, Marburg and Limburg, the largest town.

Weser
While not in the category of the three Great Rivers, the Weser is the next-longest of the German rivers, heavily
traveled by commercial barges in its lower section, north of the Mittelland Kanal. It flows north across the entire
province of Niedersachsen (Lower Saxony), entering the North Sea at Bremerhaven. The best cruising is south
of the Mittelland Kanal; travel is possible on the Weser to Hannoversch-Münden and then up the Fulda river to
Kassel. The Aller is another tributary of the Weser, joining south of Bremen. These waterways are on the flat
agricultural plain of northern Germany and are pleasant but not as scenic as the rivers described above.

Saale
The German authorities have recently added the Saale to their list of waterways on which a temporary operator’s
license can be issued by a charter-boat base, hoping to increase tourism in the area. Unfortunately, no rental boat
base exists at this writing. The river joins the Elbe just south of Magdeburg after crossing the agricultural fields
of Sachsen-Anhalt (Saxony) province. It is an area yet to be discovered.

Main
This major is aptly named, it is one of the main rivers for commercial traffic across Germany, especially after the
opening of the Rhein-Main-Donau Kanal offered access to the Danube river. Not far upstream from its junction
with the Rhein is the major city of Frankfurt-am-Main; other cities along the route are Offenbach, Würzburg and
Schweinfurt. In between are some very beautiful sections as the river makes several large swoops across the
central plateau of Germany.
 Page 6
Other Rivers Connecting from Neighboring Countries
Mosel/Saar
Flowing northeast from France as the Moselle, the Mosel river brings traffic to the Rhein but it is a popular
cruising route in its own right. After the Mosel leaves France, the right bank is in Germany while the left bank is
in the small country of Luxembourg for 36 kilometers; another 5 kilometers downstream is the junction with the
Saar, a tributary arriving from the Lorraine region of northeastern France. From that point (Trier) the serpentine
distance along the waterway to Koblenz is 200 kilometers, more than twice as much as the straight-line distance.
Virtually the entire distance is lined on both sides with rocky outcroppings and a seemingly endless display of
vineyards stretched along steep slopes, producing the world-famous sweet white wines of the region. A series of
classic German towns are worth visiting; the 200-kilometer trip could easily stretch into a week. The river
must be shared with commercial barges and quite a few passenger tour boats, but the river is broad and traffic
is not usually a problem. The major hire-boat companies do not offer their boats on the Mosel, but there is a
small independent base on the Saar; use the link below.

Ems
The Ems river is a connection between the North Sea at Emden and the Dortmund-Ems Kanal. It offers a route
into Germany from the northeastern corner of The Netherlands for broad vessels; the locks are 12 meters wide.

Oder
The Oder forms a portion of the Germany/Poland border east of Berlin but it is primarily a Polish river, the Odra.
It flows northwest from the Czech Republic through many of the cities of southwestern Poland and on past
Berlin to the Baltic Sea; traffic can connect to Berlin via the Oder-Spree Kanal (on the southeast of Berlin) or the
Havel-Oder Wasserstrasse (on the northeast of Berlin.)

Baltic Coast
In the northeastern corner of Germany are the Peene and Uecker rivers and a series of Bodden (lakes) which can
be accessed from the Stettiner Haff. This remains a relatively wild area, with vast salt marshes and meadows
supporting a breeding ground for migratory birds. If your vessel is suitable for coastal cruising, the Peenestrom
and Strelasund channels connect the Bodden and from there a trip can continue westward along the south shore
of the Baltic to Travemunde, where you can again enter the waterway network on the Elbe-Lubeck Kanal. The
Kuhnle Tours hire-boat firm offers weekly rentals in this region; use the link below.

Self-Skippered Rental Boats (Hire Boats)

Locaboat Plaisance http://www.locaboat.com/gb/circuits/deu_mecklenburg_circuit.php

Connoisseur http://www.connoisseurafloat.com/country.html?country=GER

Crown Blue Line http://www.crownblueline.com/region_intro.html?region=BD

Nicols http://www.nicols.com/ang1.html

Kuhnle Tours http://www.kuhnle-tours.de/index.php?id=473&L=1

Saar-Mosel http://saarmoselyachtcharter.de/Revierinfos/revierinfos.htm
 Page 7
Cruising Guide for Germany:
There is one very useful book that will serve any cruising plan:
Inland Waterways of Germany, by Barry Sheffield
Imray Laurie Norie & Wilson Ltd, Cambridgeshire, 1995.
Softbound, 8 1 / 4" W X 11 5 / 8" H, 135 pages. Color and b/w photos, maps of the country and of each
waterway. About $48 (£25), available from most online nautical booksellers, including www.imray.com
This is the only book published since reunification; it covers the entire country. It is a thorough guide to all of
the waterways; each one is covered by a section with data on length/locks/draft/height/speed limit, a map,
general comments and cruising recommendations, and a thorough description of the route indexed by
kilometer-post numbers.

Waterway Charts for Germany:

There are many detailed charts available for Germany, all of them in Deutsch only. It is necessary to purchase
a chart for each waterway to be traveled, although there are a few charts available for some regions.
Charts can be ordered online from www.hansenautic.de
Website navigation & ordering available in English; Go to Boating/Inland Waterways/Germany.
Gewässerkarte Deutschland NO Nordost Scale: 1:375,000 Folded chart, Size: 84X120cm
Hansenautic Product No.: 37501 About $20 (€15.90 includes VAT)
Includes the northeastern waterways; Mecklenburg-Brandenburg and Berlin.
Gewässerkarte Deutschland NW Nordwest Scale: 1:500,000 Folded chart, Size: 84X120cm
Hansenautic Product No.: 37502 About $20 (€15.90 includes VAT)
Includes the northwestern waterways; Rhein, Elbe, Ems, Weser and Mittellandkanal.
Deutsche Binnenwasserstraßen 1 Scale: 1:30,000 Book, A4 size
Product No.: 37421 About $36 (€28.00 includes VAT)
Includes the Mittelland Kanal & Elbe-Seitenkanal
Deutsche Binnenwasserstraßen 2 Scale: 1:30,000 Book, A4 size
Product No.: 37422 About $36 (€28.00 includes VAT)
Includes the Elbe river from Hamburg to Magdeburg & Elbe-Lubeck Kanal
Other books and charts are available for: Elbe, Lahn, Main, Mosel, Saar, Neckar and Rhine.

Links:
Rhein-Boot Netz A very useful website, although only in Deutsch, it lists the motorboat and sailboat clubs and
marinas of southwestern Germany with links to their websites. Information is available regarding possible
moorings, with their kilometer-marker locations, for the Rhein from the Bodensee to the Netherlands border,
for the Main from the Rhein through the Main-Donau Kanal, and for the entire length of the Mosel, Saar, Lahn
and Neckar rivers. www.rbnetz.de

Deutscher Motoryachtverband (Motorboat Club of Germany) www.dmyv.de/

DMYV-Landesverband NW (Motorboat Club of Northwest Germany) www.dmyv-lv-nw.de/

Wasser- und Schifffahrtsverwaltung des Bundes (National Waterway Authority) www.wsv.de

More Links: http://www.dtmv-online.de/html/links.html#nautische%20Dienste

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Waterways of Germany

DENMARK
Baltic Sea
Rügen

GERMANY 26 25
Kiel
Stralsund

Rostock 33
Canals Travemünde 31
Swinoujscie (PL)

Rivers North Sea Brunsbüttel Lubeck Malchin 32 Szczecin (PL)

Cuxhaven 17A 27 Eggesin
23
24 Hamburg 29K Waren
Wilhelmshaven Müritz
Geesthacht 29Q
22 Bremerhaven
Emden 21A 21F
15C Bremervorde
Lauenburg 17 29J
29L
29M
POLAND
21B 21D
20A
Bremen
21C
21G 21E 29R
Mescherin
Papenburg Oldenburg 29N
S

29S
ND

20 Verden 28 29P

19 16 17 Berlin 30
LA

Haren Celle 29E 29T

12 15B 29B
29A
29U
ER

29Y
29D 29C Z
14
Hannover Wolfsburg 29F Brandenburg 29V
TH

29W
14 14B
14A 14C 14D Magdeburg Eisenhüttenstadt
NE

Osnabrück Minden Salzgitter

Hildesheim
12 17
Münster 15
Datteln Junction
Emmerich Hamm 18
2D 11
13 Halle
10 Hannoversch-Münden 17
Duisburg Dortmund Freyburg
Essen Kassel 15A
9
Dusseldorf Dresden
2D

Koln
2C
Limburg
M

Koblenz CZECH
IU

5
Frankfurt Schweinfurt
REPUBLIC
LG

Bamberg
2C Mainz Würzburg
BE

4 6

LUX. Trier 2C
Konz Nurnberg
Mannheim 7
3
8 Regensburg
Saarbrücken 2C
Kelheim 1A
Iffezheim Stuttgart
1 Passau
Strasbourg Plochingen

FRANCE Ulm
2B

Breisach AUSTRIA
2A
Rheinfelden
Basel (CH) 2

SWITZERLAND © Copyright 2006 EuroCanals

 Name of Waterway Map From To Length Locks Lock Size Draft Height Nav
Donau (Danube) river ++ 1 Ulm Kelheim 174 km 16 20L 4B 1.0 m 2.0 m D
Donau (Danube) river ++ 1A Kelheim Passau 209 6 190L 12B 1.7 4.6 C
Rhein (Rhine) river 2 Rheinfelden Basel 18 2 110L 12B 3.2 4.8 C
Rhein-Seitenkanal 2A Basel Breisach 57 4 185L 11.4B 4.5 6.7 C
Rhein (Rhine) canalised 2B Breisach Iffezheim 107 6 190L 11.4B 3 6.7 C
Rhein (Rhine) river +++ 2C Iffezheim Koln 352 0 2.1 9.0 C
Rhein (Rhine) river +++ 2D Koln Emmerich 177 0 2.5 9.0 C
Saar river ++ 3 Saarbrucken Güdingen 94 10 38.5L 5.1B 2.2 4.4 B
Mosel river +++ 4 French border Koblenz 242 13 170L 12B 2.5 3.1 B
Lahn river +++ 5 Rhein river Limburg 67 12 34L 5.3B 1.5 3.2 A
Main river ++ 6 Mainz Bamberg 384 34 300L 12B 2.3 4.8 C
Rhein-Main-Donau Kanal 7 Bamberg Kelheim 171 16 190L 12B 2.5 5.5 C
Neckar river +++ 8 Mannheim Plochingen 201 27 110L 12B 2.3 5.5 A
Ruhr river 9 Rhein river Essen-Rellinghausen 41 5 40.3L 5.2B 1.7 3.2 A
Rhein-Herne Kanal 10 Duisburg Datteln junction 49 5 190L 12B 2.5 4.5 B
Wesel-Datteln Kanal 11 Rhein river Datteln junction 60 6 110L 11.6B 2.5 4.5 B
Dortmund-Ems Kanal+ 12 Datteln junction Papenburg 226 16 165L 10B 2.5 4.3 B
Datteln-Hamm Kanal 13 Datteln junction Hamm 47 2 82L 9.9B 2.5 4.0 C
Mittelland Kanal 14 Dortmund-Ems Kanal Magdeburg 325 3 190L 12B 2.0 4.0 A
Stichkanal Osnabruck 14A Mittelland Kanal Osnabruck 15 2 82L 10B 2.1 4.0 A
Stichkanal Hannover 14B Mittelland Kanal Hannover 11 1 83L 10B 1.9 4.0 A
Stichkanal Hildesheim 14C Mittelland Kanal Hildesheim 15 1 82L 12B 2.1 4.0 A
Stichkanal Salzgitter 14D Mittelland Kanal Salzgitter 18 2 220L 12B 2.2 3.8 A
Oberweser river + 15 Hannoversch-Munden Minden 205 1 221L 11B varies 4.3 A
Fulda river ++ 15A Kassel Hannoversch-Munden 29 5 35L 6.75B 1.2 3.4 A
Mittelweser river 15B Minden Bremen 140 7 85L 12.3B 2.3 4.5 C
Unterweser (tidal river) 15C Bremen Bremerhaven 66 0 varies 5.2 C
 Name of Waterway Map From To Length Locks Lock Size Draft Height Nav
Aller river + 16 Celle Mittelweser river 117 4 159L 10B 2.2 2.3 A
Elbe river +++ 17 Czech border Geesthacht 586 0 varies 4.5 B
Elbe (tidal river) 17A Geesthacht Cuxhaven 139 1 230L 24B 3.2 open C
Saale river ++ 18 Freyburg Elbe river 185 17 45L 5.5B 1.4 3.2 A
Haren-Rutenbrock Kanal + 19 Haren Netherlands 14 4 163L 6.0B 1.5 3.7 A
Kustenkanal 20 Dortmund-Ems K. Oldenburg 70 2 102L 12B 2.5 4.5 C
Untere Hunte (tidal river) 20A Oldenburg Unterweser river 25 0 2.3 4.5 C
Ems-Seitenkanal 21A Emden Unter Ems river 9 2 100L 10B 1.5 4.2 C
Unter Ems (tidal river) 21B Emden Papenburg 41 0 1.5 open A
Leda (tidal river) 21C Ems river Dreysschlot 25 0 1.2 6.1 A
Jumme (tidal river) 21D Leda river Barssel 22 0 1.4 2.8 A
Elisabethfehn Kanal 21E Sagter Ems Kustenkanal 15 4 N/A 0.9 4.0 A
Nordgeorgsfehn Kanal 21F Ems-Jade Kanal Jumme river 32 7 N/A 1.4 1.5 A
Sagter-Ems (tidal river) 21G Leda river Strucklingen 6 0 1.4 open A
Ems-Jade Kanal 22 Emden Wilhelmshaven 72 7 33L 6.5B 1.7 3.8 A
Hadelner Kanal / Elbe-Weser 23 Bremerhaven Elbe river 62 3 50L 6B 1.5 2.6 A
Oste river 24 Elbe river Bremervorde 75 0 1.7 open A
Nord-Ostsee Kanal (Kiel) 25 Brunsbuttel Kiel 98 2 125L 22B 9.5 40.0 B
Eider river/Gieselau Kanal 26 North Sea Kiel canal 90 4 N/A 2.5 31.0 A
Elbe-Lubeck Kanal/Trave + 27 Travemunde Elbe river 89 7 80L 12B 2 4.4 A
Elbe-Seitenkanal + 28 Wolfsburg Elbe river 115 2 100L 12B 2.5 5.3 A
Mecklenburg-Brandenburg 29 (see next map)
Oder river + 30 Eisenhüttenstadt Mescherin 162 0 0.8 4.2 C
Peene river ++ 31 Malchin Stettiner Haff 104 0 1.8 4.5 A
Uecker river ++ 32 Eggesin Stettiner Haff 11 0 1.3 1.85 A
Peenestrom ++ 33 Stettiner Haff Bodden A
Strelasund ++ 33 Bodden Baltic Sea A
 Can
uro Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe

als
E
Waterways of Northeastern Germany

Ostsee
Ostsee RUGEN
(Baltic Sea)
(Baltic Sea)
Stralsund

Str
ela
sun
d
Rostock

Pe
en
est
ow

rom
Tre
Warn

bel
Swinoujscie (PL)
Peene
Stettiner
Kummerower Zalew
See
Haff
Szczecinski

er
Schweriner

Ueck
See

St
or
ka
na Waren MECKLENBURG- Szczecin (PL)
K l
VORPOMMERN

r
J

ode
Plau Müritz
Plauer
See

st
See Neustrelitz

der
We
Muritz-Elde

Osto
Wasserstrasse
J Mirow
e L
Eld Müritz-Havel

Wa edric aten-
ras r
Lychen

rst ale
Wasserstrasse

se
Templin

sse hst
Fri hensa
Rheinsberg
M
Obere-Havel

Ho
Wasserstrasse
POLAND
Lindow Q
Elb Neuruppin Ruppiner Havel
R
e Oder-Havel-K
anal
Wasserstrasse
Havelberg N P S Finowkanal Ode
r
Oranienburg
BRANDENBURG
Un
ter Wass

l
e-H er

ana

E
ave stra

el K

H Spandau BERLIN
l sse

T
Hav

A
D B Y Mugglespree
Z l
D1 ana U
ltow K
Plaue D2
D3 Brandenburg Potsdam Te Oder-Spree Kanal
F nal Untere-Havel C V
Ka Wasserstrasse
avel Dahme
Oder-Spree
e-H W Kanal
G Elb Wasserstrasse
Mittellandk Obere-Spree
anal Wasserstrasse
Magdeburg
 Name of Waterway Map From To Length Locks Lock Size Draft Height Nav
Untere-Havel Wasserstrasse ++ A Spandau, Spree river Jungfern See 16 km 0 1.6 m 5.1 m A
Sacrow-Paretzer Kanal ++ B Jungfern See Paretz 17 0 1.85 4.0 A
Potsdamer Havel +++ C Jungfern See Paretz 29 0 1.9 5.1 A
Untere-Havel Wasserstrasse ++ D Paretz Silokanal junction 21 0 2.2 4.1 A
Silokanal (large vessels only) D1 Silokanal junction Plauer See 11 1 167L 9.9B 2.2 4.1 B
Brandenburger Stadtkanal +++ D2 Silokanal junction Brandenburg city 4.2 1 23L 5.3B 1.7 2.7 A
Brandenburger Niederhavel +++ D3 Brandenburg city Plauer See 9.1 0 2.0 4.7 A
Untere-Havel Wasserstrasse ++ E Plaue Havelberg 82 5 200L 9.6B 1.2 4.1 B
Elbe-Havel Kanal F Magdeburg Plaue 58 2 218L 12B 2.0 4.3 B
Mittellandkanal G Magdeburg Dortmund-Ems Kan. 325 3 190L 12B 2.0 4.0 B
Elbe river +++ H Czech border Geesthacht 586 0 varies 4.5 C
Mueritz-Elde Wasserstrasse +++ J Elbe river Mueritz See 184 17 40.0L 5.2B 1.2 3.7 A
Storkanal ++ K Mueritz-Elde Schwerinersee 44 1 47.5L 5.3B 1.2 3.9 A
Mueritz-Havel W-strasse +++ L Priepert Kleine Mueritz See 32 4 41.5L 5.3B 1.4 4.2 A
Obere-Havel Wasserstrasse +++ M Havel-Oder Wass. Neustrelitz 103 11 41.5L 5.3B 1.8 3.8 A
Ruppiner Wasserstrasse +++ N Oranienburg Vielitz See 71 5 40.2L 6.9B 1.2 3.0 A
Havel-Oder Wasserstrasse P Spandau Hohensaaten 93 4 83L 11.5B 3.0 4.2 B
Hohensaaten-Friedrichstaler Ws Q Hohensaaten Polish border 42 0 170L 11.9B 1.8 5.0 A
Werbelliner Gewasser ++ R Havel-Oder Was. Werbellinsee 17 2 39.7L 5.2B 1.5 4.0 A
Finowkanal ++ S Havel-Oder Was. Havel-Oder Was. 32 12 38L 5.25B 1.2 3.8 A
Havelkanal T Paretz Hennigsdorf 35 1 82.2L 12B 2.0 4.7 C
Spree-Oder Wasserstrasse + U Spandau Oder river 130 7 65L 8.5B 2.0 3.0 A
Dahme Wasserstrasse ++ V Spree-Oder Was. Prieros 26 3 25L 3.4B 1.5 3.6 A
Obere-Spree Wasserstrasse +++ W Spree-Oder Was. Kossenblatt 41 3 39.2L 5.3B 1.6 3.2 A
Teltowkanal Y Glienicker See Spree/Langen See 38 1 82L 12B 2.0 3.8 A
Britzer Zweigkanal Z Teltowkanal Britz 3.4 0 1.75 4.6 A
 Can
uro Cruising the Canals & Rivers of Europe

als
E
Waterways of Berlin & Brandenburg

Hennigsdorf

BERLIN
Spandau Reichstag

Charlottenburg
Ketzin Britz
Trebelsee Kopenick
Grosse
Paretz Wannsee Muggelsee
Jungfernsee Langen
Grosse
Plauer Zernsee Potsdam See Seddingsee
See Glienicker Bridge
Schmockwitz
Brandenburg Werder Zeuthener
See
Templiner See
Zeuthen
Caputh
Schwielowsee
Silokanal Muggelspree
Brandenburger Stadtkanal/Niederhavel Britzer Zweigkanal
Sacrow-Paretzer-Kanal Landwehrkanal
Havelkanal Neukollner Schiffahrtskanal
Untere-Havel-Wasserstrasse Charlottenburger Verbindungskanal
Teltowkanal Berlin-Spandauer-Schiffahrtskanal
Potsdamer Havel Gosener Kanal
Spree Prinz-Leopold-Kanal

NAME OF WATERWAY FROM TO LENGTH LOCKS DRAFT HEIGHT NAV

Silokanal (large vessels only) Untere-Havel Wasser Plauer See 11 km 1 2.2 m 4.1 m B
Brandenburger Stadtkanal +++ Untere-Havel Wasser Brandenburg 13 1 1.8 2.7 A
Sacrow-Paretzer Kanal ++ Jungfern See Paretz 17 0 1.85 4.0 A
Havelkanal Paretz Hennigsdorf 35 1 2.0 4.7 C
Untere-Havel Wasserstrasse + Paretz Silokanal 21 0 2.2 4.1 A
Te ltowkanal Glieniicker See Spree/Langen See 38 1 1.75 4.4 A
Potsdamer Havel +++ Jungfern See Paretz 29 0 1.9 6.6 A
Spree-Oder Wasserstrasse + Spandau Oder River 130 7 1.75 4.0 A
Muggelspree +++ Spree-Oder Wasser Dameritzsee 11 0 1.7 4.7 A
Britzer Zweigkanal Tetlowkanal Britz 3.4 0 1.75 4.6 A
Landwehrkanal Spree-Oder Wasser Spree-Oder Wasser 11 2 1.65 3.3 A
Neukollner Schiffahrtskanal Tetlowkanal Landwehrkanal 4.1 1 1.75 3.6 A
Charlottenburger Verbingdungsknl Charlottenburg Spree-Oder Wasser 1.7 0 2 4.8 A
Berlin-Spandauer Schiffahrtskanal Spree-Oder Wasser Havel-Oder Wasser. 12.2 1 2 3.9 A
Gosener Kanal Muggelspree Seddingsee 2.8 0 2 4.3 A
Prinz-Leopold-Kanal Tetlowkanal Grosser Wannsee 4 0 1.75 4.4 A
 Page 1
A Boat Tour in and around Berlin, Germany in August 2002
By Martin Swain Photos by Martin and Hildegard Swain
Why Berlin? Well, Berlin prides itself with having more bridges than Venice, so there must be plenty of
water! In fact the Havel and Spree rivers join in Berlin forming numerous lakes to which man-made
canals have been added. So the claim may well be correct. Furthermore there are few cities in Europe that
have had a comparable history in the 20th Century. Since German Reunification so much has changed
there, so we thought it was time to look for ourselves. An article in one of the German boating magazines3
further whetted our appetite.
We had booked our boat in the spring for August 2002 with Kuhnle Tours, the major charter boat operator
in Germany, with a base in Zeuthen, in the southeast of Berlin. A week before the scheduled date the TV
and newspapers were reporting the tremendous flooding on the Elbe River and its tributaries in East
Germany, particularly bad in Dresden. We started to wonder whether it was going to effect our plans. We
were assured that there was no problem in the Berlin area. Nevertheless we started out with some
reservations, which were not justified as we had hot sunny weather up until the last day.

The Elbe’s water comes from the

mountains in the south east of
Germany (Saxony) and from the
Czech Republic. The Havel flows
to Berlin from the north and the
Spree from the east. It was the
torrential rain in the mountains
to the south that had caused the
flooding.

We drove from our home in north-central Germany and arrived via the A2 (east-west autoroute) and A10
(Berlin orbital) highways and easily found the Kuhnle boatyard in Zeuthen, with its on-site car park.
Transferring the baggage from the car to our Kormoran 950 called “Zechlin” was hot work as the boat
was moored in the sun. After the boatyard engineer had shown us how everything works and handed over
the paperwork, which included a comprehensive map and guide of the waterways, we decided to cast off
to find some cooler air out on the water.

3
Stander 08/2001
 Page 2

“Zechlin” is a Kormoran 950 rented from the Kuhnle-Tours base in Zeuthen, Germany
We cruised northwards along the Zeuthener See4, turning half left after the bridge at Schmökwitz, past the
2000 meter international rowing course in the Langen See until we reached Köpenick. There is a public
landing stage with overnight stay permitted to the south of the island on which the old town of Köpenick
(Alt-Köpenick) is situated, there where the Spree and the Müggelspree join. With the help of some local
children who were playing on the landing stage after a swim we moored up for our first night. We were
soon joined by another hire boat from one of the numerous small charter boat companies in Berlin5. They
were locals who hired a boat each year to tour the waterways particularly to the south east of Berlin. They
gave us some useful tips, but our target was the other direction.
Köpenick, which due to its strategic position was formerly more important than Berlin, is famous for an
episode that occurred in 1906 when a tailor, Wilhelm Voigt, posing as an army captain (Hauptmann)
robbed the town hall. He was frustrated by bureaucracy having been told, after being released from
prison, that he could not get a passport without having a job, and to get a job he must have a passport. The
story was made into a play which has also been filmed, and a bronze statue of the “Hauptmann von
Köpenick” now stands outside the town hall.
A shop in Köpenick offered freshly baked rolls the next morning. During breakfast we listened to news
of the floods in the south and the weather forecast (hot and sunny) for Berlin. We decided not to take the

4
I have for the most part kept the German names of the lakes and canals, as those are the ones you will find on maps.
“See” (der See) in German is a lake (“die See” is the sea!). However I have replaced –bruecke by Bridge.
5
See “Rental Boat Bases” on page 20.
 Page 3
direct route into Berlin, i.e. to sail down the Spree, but rather to go west along the Teltowkanal to
Potsdam and to visit the centre of Berlin on the return journey. The entrance to the canal was half an hour
down the Spree then a left into the Britzer Zweigkanal. This canal joins the Teltowkanal at an intersection
near the suburb of Britz with its harbour, and heads west and later southwest through the industrial
southern suburbs of Berlin.
At places this canal was the border between East and West, and there are still traces of the Wall to be
seen, with a contrast of architecture between the two banks of the canal and a number of dramatic bridges.
The Teltowkanal was build as a flood canal and is certainly not a scenic beauty. However it is of
considerable interest for those looking into recent history, and it’s the shortest route from east to west.
After the Kleinmachnow lock it becomes more rural before a watch-tower on a camping site reminds one
that this was the border only 12 years ago. Under a railway bridge and then there was a choice to be
made; right into the Prinz-Leopold-Kanal and thus through a series of small lakes into the Wannsee and
back to Berlin, or left – our choice – into the Gribnietzsee and southwest towards Potsdam.
On the left bank of this wide river-like lake (or lake-like river) are a number of large, freshly renovated
turn-of-the-century villas facing on the other bank a wide fringe of rushes and a natural forest. At the end
of the lake we had to wait for a passenger steamer coming towards us midstream under the Parkbruecke,
before we entered the Glienicker See with the famous bridge.

Glienicker Bridge, looking north on the Havel

The Glienicker Bridge was where during the Cold War the East and the West exchanged agents, spies and
other celebrities. On the east side was West Berlin with the three Western allies and on the west was the
GDR (German Democratic Republic = East Germany) with the Russian HQ in Potsdam. Leaving the
bridge to our right we turned left into the Tiefer See on the Potsdamer Havel. On the left bank was
Schloss Babelsberg, a mock gothic castle built by the architect Karl-Friedrich Schinkel for Kaiser
Wilhelm I (1861-1888). Behind it in the woods are the Babelsberg film studios where Marlene Dietrich
began her career.
 Page 4
Potsdam was the residence of the Fredrick the Great (1740-1786) and has a lot to offer; the Palace and
Park of Sanssourci, the Cecilienhof (where the Potsdam Conference in 1945 was held), the Charlottenhof,
the Russian village of Alexandrowka, and the Dutch Quarter. But not on a hot summer day!!! So we
sailed on down the Neue Fahrt into the Templiner See, leaving Potsdam and its moorings to our right and
being careful to avoid the numerous passenger steamers of the Weisse Flotte (White Fleet), whose
captains obviously believe they own the water.
At the southern end of the Templiner See, which was full of sailing boats and small motor boats, is the
village of Caputh which also has a baroque castle as well as the house where Albert Einstein spent his
summers in the nineteen-twenties. There is free mooring available at the camping site on the right bank,
with a short walk to the ferry across to the village. After a short narrows the Havel opens out again into a
further lake, Schwielowsee. At the south western end of that lake there is a half timbered church (built
1630) in the village of Ferch, but we turned north westwards to the island town of Werder.

A quiet mooring at the Sailing Club dock in Werder

We found a quiet mooring for the night at the Sailing Club “Einheit” (Unity) in Werder. We had been
recommended the fish restaurant “Arielle” in Werder, and our meal of grilled local fish accompanied by a
glass of the local wine6 was excellent. The town itself, despite the idyllic setting on an island, still shows
signs of the years of socialist neglect. The next morning we made an early start to enjoy the cool breeze,
as long as it lasted. After an hour and a half cruising through the Grosser and Kleiner Zernsee the Havel

6
Werderer Mueller-Tourgau is the most northerly wine produced in Germany. The microclimate at the back of the town
makes it possible to grow vines, and if the summer is good so is the wine!! 2002 should be a good year.
 Page 5
becomes a river again. After the junction with the Sacrow-Paretzer-Kanal, which comes from the
Wannsee, and the Havelkanal, which bypasses Berlin for commercial traffic, we turned due west with the
sun on our backs! The delta-like meandering river arms of Havel create an incredibly picturesque
symbiosis of water and land, with a row of trees apparently growing out of the water, a herd of cows
grazing on a wooded sandbank (how do they get there?), an eagle preening itself in a dead tree on the
water’s edge. The navigation channel is luckily clearly marked with buoys, otherwise it would be difficult
to identify the shallow side arms from the main river. Here the echo-sounder comes in useful if you plan
to anchor to enjoy the tranquillity. We headed on towards Brandenburg.
Just after km 54 there is a junction with the Brandenburger Stadtkanal. Straight ahead leads into the
Silokanal which skirts the north of the town of Brandenburg. After the main lock called Vorstadtschleuse
this leads further into a chain of lakes (Quenzsee, Plauersee etc.) then on toward the River Elbe either
northwards on the Havel via the towns of Rathenow and Havelberg, or westwards on the Elbe-Havel-
Kanal via the town of Genthin. This is a world of its own and we plan to explore it separately at a later
date. We turned left into the Stadtkanal, toward the center of the city.

Brandenburg
Soon the silhouette of the town’s towers and spires appeared above the trees, the canal narrowed and we
were below the walls of this historic city built on an island in the Havel, which was already a bishopric in
948. Just downstream of a low bridge there is a newly installed landing stage with washing facilities.
The only disadvantage on that day was that it was in the full glare of the sun. Nevertheless we moored
 Page 6
there and after lunch set off to explore Brandenburg. The city made a lively impression on us with the
busy pedestrian main street and modern tram system contrasting with the historic buildings, such as the
Town Hall (15th Cent.) with the Roland statue. The Church of St Catherine (“Katherinenkirche” – begun
1401) was in the middle of restoration as were several sites nearby. There was a lot of building going on.
The work on The Cathedral (“Dom” – begun 1165) was fairly well advanced; the interior is very
impressive and certainly merits a visit. There are regular concerts, unfortunately not on the day we were
there.
It was mid-afternoon when we returned to the boat and the temperature in the galley was 37°C (100°F).
We decided to return towards Berlin. (In any case the locks in Brandenburg were restricting passage as
they were having to let in the flood water from the Elbe.) Returning through the labyrinth of the Havel
we passed the Fichtner Marina at km 43 and travelled on to Ketzin (km 35). In a side arm there is a sports
club (Seesportclub) with a small jetty and we moored with the help of the port master at one of the last
spaces; it was 6 pm and had been a long day.
The club-house offers all the necessary facilities and the town of Ketzin has a number of shops to
refurbish the pantry. Here too there was plenty of building going on; the only exception was a “Palais”,
a large baroque town house on the main street, that was boarded up and obviously in desperate need of a
new owner or someone new to care for it. Just upstream of the town there is a ferry (km 34.5) across the
Havel and a couple of smaller mooring places. There is an annual motor boat regatta at Ketzin each
summer (check the dates if you plan to travel this route, and don’t schedule an overnight stop then!).
The next day we got into conversation with a New Zealand couple who had purchased a cruiser in
Holland in May and were touring Denmark and Germany. They were having to wait as there was no
passage across the Elbe to reach the Mittellandkanal, the main East-West waterway across Germany and
their route back to Holland. We left Ketzin at 1 pm and took the direct route through the Sacrow-
Paretzer-Kanal arriving mid-afternoon at the Jungfernsee, the first of the chain of lakes leading to
Spandau. After the wide open spaces and the quiet of the Havel as we cruised from Brandenburg, the
bustle of passenger steamers, motorboats in all shapes and sizes, and any number of sailing boats came as
somewhat of a surprise. But then we were back in the metropolis! On the Wannsee, the largest of Berlin’s
lakes, there was a pleasant easterly breeze, refreshing for us and invigorating for the sailing craft. At the
north end of the Wannsee are several marinas; we headed for Marina Lanka Werft, on the west bank.
The next morning we navigated the last few kilometres of the Havel until we reached the junction where
the Spree joins the Havel. To follow the Havel northwards would lead one through the northern part of
Berlin and continue on to Oranienburg and the Mecklenburg waterways and lakes. You could continue
all the way to the Müritz and then down the Müritz-Elde-Wasserstrasse back to the Elbe, but that’s
another story altogether! Following the junction where we turned eastwards towards Berlin the banks are
very industrial, power plants, refuse processors, factories with blocks of flats in the background. At km 7
we had to wait for the Charlottenburg lock to be made ready.
 Page 7

Immediately after the lock we

were in the middle of
Charlottenburg park and soon
the palace was visible
through the trees. There is a
public mooring7 here (max.
24 hours) and we tied up to
go and explore
Charlottenburg.

There are not only the historical sites, Charlottenburg is a residential part of Berlin with plenty of shops
and restaurants. Mid-afternoon we started off again and after the junction with the Landwehrkanal and the
Charlottenburger Verbindungskanal the traffic density increased, in particular the number of tourist boats.
They were all in regular radio contact with one another, which is necessary as the river winds and there
are a lot of bridges. We tagged in behind one of the boats and followed it until it stopped at the Congress
Hall.
Just beyond there is a traffic light which
regulates the river traffic at the bend in the
river where the new building for the German
parliament are being constructed
(“Spreebogen”.) The Chancellor’s building
(“Kanzeleramt”) is ready but the other
buildings next to the Reichstag are still a
mass of cranes, scaffolding, cement
transporters and workmen.

7
The Water Police (Wasserschutzpolizei) issues a list of these moorings, which are generally very convenient for sight-seeing,
but do not have any facilities. They are clearly marked. The couple from New Zealand had told us that they had spent more
than a week touring Berlin, using a different public mooring each night and visiting the sites by day. The boat-hire company
supplied us with the list.
 Page 8
Beyond the one-way system, above the Weidenhammer Bridge,
there is another public mooring where we landed. To the right we
had the Reichstag and to the left the Museums’ Island with the
TV-Tower in the background.
The Museums’ Island (Museumsinsel) is a collection of museums
on an island in the Spree. There is the famous Pergamon Museum
and the newly reopened New National Gallery (Nationalgalerie).
They are currently working on the Bode Museum and the Old
National Gallery. Ultimately they will all be linked together. On
the island there is also Berlin’s Cathedral (Dom) and the former
GDR Parliament building (Palast der Republik).
We sat on deck and watched the traffic, barges, tour boats,
steamers (real steamers), charter boats, canoes. This was when we
photographed the first cloud of the holiday!

A “real steamer” and a modern tour boat in the center of Berlin

 Page 9
From our mooring place it was only a short walk to the area around the Oranienburger Strasse which had
been the centre of the Jewish community from the 19th Century until 1938 and is now re-emerging. There
is the Jewish Cemetery as well as the New Synagogue (originally opened by Bismarck in 1866, and now
rebuilt, after being destroyed in 1938), as well as a number of renovated buildings. Well worth a visit is
the Hackesche Hoefe, an art deco complex that now contains cinemas, restaurants, cabarets and theatres.
There were also several delicatessen shops where we did our shopping for dinner, for although there
would have been any number of good places to eat out we had decided to enjoy our ringside seats.
We were awake early the next morning, having been disturbed (only acoustically) by one of Berlin’s
homeless, who was sleeping on a bank on the wall above the mooring. So we went for a walk around the
Museums’ Island before most people were up and about. A group of workers from one of the numerous
sites here in Berlin-Mitte changing shifts were the only people we met. Because the weather was
forecasted to be hot again, and the fact that our week was drawing to a close we postponed a more
detailed visit in Berlin for a future cooler date. Despite our early start we had to wait for the traffic to start
up as there is another one-way section past the Museums’ Island, but without lights. So we waited for
someone in the know (someone with a radio!) and followed them through and into Muehlendamm Lock.
Next to the lock is the Historical Harbour (Historischer Hafen) with a number of old-timers.
From now on the Spree is wide and the architecture on the banks again depends whether it was formerly
East or West. The restored Oberbaum Bridge is impressive, but our photo didn’t turn out! Near
Rummelsberg a sea-plane landed a few hundred metres ahead of us; there is a base here. Soon we rejoined
the part on the Spree that we had travelled on the outward tour. However at Köpenick this time we
continued eastwards into the Müggelspree, crossed the Grosse Müggelsee, which was as flat as a mirror
and an unearthly colour, an indication of a change in the weather.
As we cruised through “New Venice”, a settlement of weekend
houses in narrow waterways it turned cloudy and humid. In the
Dämeritzsee we took a right into the Gosener Kanal and headed
south as a thunderstorm started to develop. At the end of the
Seddingsee we were back at Schmöckwitz and it started to rain.
Half an hour late we arrived back in Zeuthen. The rain had stopped
and it had cooled down a lot. The thunder rumbled in the distance.
We started to pack our things together and reminisced about our
week on the water, before we loaded the car and headed for home.

--oo—
 a
uroC na Berlin By Boat

ls
Page 10

To better view the details of this map, you can enlarge the view by selecting the magnifying-glass icon on the left-side toolbar,
then clicking on the map (the same action can be made from the VIEW menu, select Zoom In.)

BERLIN
Spandau 5
4 Charlottenburg

Ketzin Britz
Trebelsee Kopenick
3
Wannsee
1 Grosse
Muggelsee
Jungfernsee Langen
Grosse See
Plauer Zernsee Potsdam Seddingsee
See 2 Glienicker Bridge
Schmockwitz
Brandenburg Werder Zeuthener
See
Templiner See
Zeuthen
Caputh 6 Base
Schwielowsee

Red arrows follow the route of this trip. Numbers shown in red indicate the overnight mooring locations.
Silokanal Muggelspree
Brandenburger Stadtkanal Britzer Zweigkanal
Sacrow-Paretzer-Kanal Landwehrkanal
Havelkanal Neukollner Schiffahrtskanal
Untere-Havel-Wasserstrasse Charlottenburger Verbindungskanal
Teltowkanal Berlin-Spandauer-Schiffahrtskanal
Potsdamer Havel Gosener Kanal
Spree Prinz-Leopold-Kanal
NAME OF WATERWAY FROM TO LENGTH LOCKS DRAFT HEIGHT NAV
Silokanal (large vessels only) Untere-Havel Wasser Plauer See 11 km 1 2.2 m 4.1 m B
Brandenburger Stadtkanal +++ Untere-Havel Wasser Brandenburg 4 1 2.2 2.7 A
Sacrow-Paretzer Kanal ++ Jungfern See Paretz 17 0 1.85 4.0 A
Havelkanal Paretz Hennigsdorf 35 1 2.0 4.7 C
Untere-Havel Wasserstrasse + Paretz Silokanal 21 0 2.2 4.1 A
Teltowkanal Glieniicker See Spree/Langen See 38 1 1.75 4.4 A
Potsdamer Havel +++ Jungfern See Paretz 29 0 1.9 6.6 A
Spree-Oder Wasserstrasse + Spandau Oder River 130 7 1.75 4.0 A
Muggelspree +++ Spree-Oder Wasser Dameritzsee 11 0 1.7 4.7 A
Britzer Zweigkanal Teltowkanal Britz 3.4 0 1.75 4.6 A
Landwehrkanal Spree-Oder Wasser Spree-Oder Wasser 11 2 1.65 3.3 A
Neukollner Schiffahrtskanal Teltowkanal Landwehrkanal 4.1 1 1.75 3.6 A
Charlottenburger Verbingdungsknl Charlottenburg Spree-Oder Wasser 1.7 0 2 4.8 A
Berlin-Spandauer Schiffahrtskanal Spree-Oder Wasser Havel-Oder Wasser. 12.2 1 2 3.9 A
Gosener Kanal Muggelspree Seddingsee 2.8 0 2 4.3 A
Prinz-Leopold-Kanal Teltowkanal Grosser Wannsee 4 0 1.75 4.4 A

Copyright 2003 EuroCanals

 Page 11
The Boat:

Kormoran 950 from Kuhnle Tours (for contact information, see page 19)

Photo courtesy Kuhnle Tours

Modern-built boat in traditional style for 3 to 5 persons, 9.50 x 3.40 m, ideal for a couple or a small
family, one forward cabin with single- or double-berths. One bathroom, pantry and salon in rear.
Wheelhouse steering position in center of boat plus external steering position. Fresh water tank 900 liters,
holding tank 980 liters.

The Kormoran-style boat is available in six other models: 9.40 x 3.90 m, 11.0 x 3.85 m & 12.6 x 3.85 m
for groups up to 7 passengers (full comfort); all models accomodate two more passengers in a dinette
bunk.
Littoral Waterways of
Northeastern Italy

Portegrandi lock, Laguna Veneta

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Littoral Waterways of Northeastern Italy by Tom Sommers July 2002

Although Italy doesn’t have the network of canals and navigable rivers of the northwestern European
countries, there are extensive littoral (adjacent to the sea) canals along the shore of the Adriatic Sea and in
the lagoons near the coast; Laguna Veneta, Laguna di Marano and Laguna di Grado. Several navigable
rivers flow into these lagoons; twelve of these rivers can be sailed for at least a few kilometers upstream
from the lagoons. The Brenta Canal is a popular cruise past villas and gardens that can be visited on the
way to Padua. The Sile River can be traveled through peaceful, quiet countryside as far as Treviso.

The lagoons are connected by the Idrovia Litoranea Veneta, a waterway similar to the Intracoastal
Waterway in the southeastern USA. From the Po river at its southern end, the ILV stretches just inside the
barrier islands along the curve of the Adriatic coast for nearly 300 kilometers to the Golfo di Trieste, with
inlets connecting to the sea at intervals of 12 to 15 kilometers.

The Po is the major river of Italy, flowing into the Adriatic at the Po Delta, forty kilometers south of
Venice. The delta is a nature reserve and important site for ancient cultures that can be explored by boat.
(The Po is navigable almost to Milan; a future report will cover travel along that route.)

A cautionary note: These are littoral waterways, and present more challeges than inland canals or rivers.
Although navigation on these waterways is not difficult, cruising is recommended only for skippers with
some boating experience in shallow coastal waterways. Tide tables must be consulted to determine the
depth of the channel, and even then the level of a specific channel may vary from the prediction.
Crosswinds will be more prevalent than would be expected in more protected waterways. Judgement and
patience are useful attributes here. Also, check for local advice on your proposed route; some channels
may be blocked by inoperative bridges. For instance, the bridge over the ILV at Jésolo was reported
closed by a traveler in 2001 and again by Martin Swain in April 2002.

On the other hand, no license is required and rental boats are authorized to travel up to three miles into the
sea, allowing blockages to be bypassed if necessary. Private vessels can enter from the Adriatic; obtain
local charts and tide tables for draft requirements.

There is an extensive network of public transportation by boat in Laguna Nord, the area of Laguna Veneta
near Venice. Most of the islands can by reached by vaporetto, a convenient way to travel to certain
locations where mooring of your own vessel may be difficult or unavailable. Or you may wish to leave
your vessel moored at one of the islands while you make day-trips into Venice. If you are renting a boat at
Chioggia/Sottomarina, there are bus routes connecting to Marco Polo airport and rail terminals at Venice
or Padua.
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Treviso Sile River

Trieste
Jesolo Lignano Grado

Mira Oriago Venice

Padova Stra Dolo
Brenta Canal

Brenta River
Chioggia ADRIATIC SEA
Adige River

Po River
Portoviro

Laguna Veneta Laguna di Marano

Po Delta Laguna di Grado
Idrovia Litoranea Veneta
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Cruising Areas

Venezia (Venice)
Although it is not possible to simply cruise through the Canal Grande and the charming narrow side
canals of Venice on your own boat, there are ports available from which you can walk or travel by
vaporetto throughout the city, or even leave your boat moored at another island. As you will read in
Martin Swain’s report which follows, he moored at St. Elena in the Castello district on the eastern end of
the city, then saw much of the city from the water, sailing directly in front of Plaza San Marco on the
Canale di San Marco and the broad Canale della Guidecca along the south of the Dorso-Duro, then
returned to the open lagoon through the Canale della Grazia past the conspicuous domed church San
Giorgio Maggiore.

The Islands of Laguna Nord

The main islands of interest lie within 10 kilometers in the lagoon on the north of Venice. Starting with
the closest, they include:
S. Michele: the cemetery island, unusual in its rectangular, square-cornered shape. The 10th century
church San Michele Archangelo sits right at the water’s edge.
Murano: resembling Venice with its irregular shape cut through by several canals and a Grand Canal
across the entire island, this town has been the center of the Venetian glass industry for over 800 years.
La Vignole: lies between the eastern end of Venice and the Porto di Lido inlet from the Adriatic Sea. A
useful mooring place for rental boats.
Burano: a picturesque fishing village noted for its colorful houses, fish restaurants and the Venetian lace-
making industry. The adjoining small island of Mazzorbo lies just across a short bridge.
Torcello: a few minutes boat trip north from Burano, this historic town has a beautiful cathedral with a
Romanesque campanile and a 9th century octagonal church.
Sant’ Erasmo: the largest island in the lagoon, just north of La Vignole. At its northwest end is the island
monastery of San Francesco del Deserto, with an interesting history dating from 1229.
Chioggia/Sottomarina
Situated at an inlet in the far southeastern corner of the lagoon (but only 24 kilometers from Venice),
Chioggia is Italy’s largest fishing port. It is popular with artists for its narrow twisting streets of decaying
houses and its canals with small colorful fishing boats. Across the harbor is the beach resort of
Sottomarina, home of two rental boat bases.

Riviera del Brenta

The historic city of Padova (Padua) can be reached from Venice by boat on the 30 km Brenta Canal. At
the town of Stra the Brenta Canal forks with the river Brenta (the river flows southeast directly to
Chioggia.) Along the canal are more than seventy summer villas of the wealthy Venetians of the past
centuries; fifty-four of these Palladian villas and their gardens are worthy of a descriptive paragraph in the
tourist guide for the area and several of them can be visited. Excursion boats travel this route on day-long
trips in either direction between Padua and Venice.
There are six locks and 14 moving bridges on the canal, and charts show two mooring places in Padua.
The group that Martin Swain met at the port in Venice (see “Venetian Lagoon by Boat”) felt that this was
a hard-work canal, but that is probably a personal opinion, perhaps influenced by the fact that sailing in
the lagoon can be done with no locks or bridges on the route and they were surprised by the requirements
of canal cruising.
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Sile River
This river has been used for travel between Venice and Treviso since ancient times. Now it is a route of
peace and quiet through natural surroundings, with occasional villas and pleasant small villages. As
compared to the Brenta Canal, it is an area of more open countryside and more low-key sightseeing and
travel.

Po Delta
The rivers Po and Adige flow into the Adriatic south of Chioggia, forming the Po Delta. Now a nature
reserve of small lagoons and reed thickets behind the barrier island strips along the sea, it has a rich
cultural history as the “Polesine” (small mesopotamia), an area significant to the Greeks, Etruscans and
Romans. Several days can be spent cruising and mooring in remote arteas.

Idrovia Litoranea Veneta

The ancient waterway reaches from the Po River to Trieste, passing through the lagoons of Veneta,
Marano and Grado and the canals which connect them in the provinces of Venezia and Friuli-Venezia
Guilia. Along the way are stretches of open water, passages through thickets of reeds and grasses, farm
fields on the banks of the canals and access to the beaches of the Adriatic. There are only occasional low
locks to adjust the levels of adjoining canals, and moveable bridges at the coastal communities.
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Voyages in Northeastern Italy

Rental boats are available at Sottomarina (Chioggia) and at Portoviro.

Week: Saturday 16:00 to Saturday 09:00
Mini-week: Monday 16:00 to Friday 09:00
Week-end: Friday 16:00 to Monday 09:00

Possible itineraries from Chioggia:

One Week Chioggia, Venezia, Jesolo, Treviso, 193 km 4 locks, 3 bridges 35 hours travel
Chioggia
One Week Chioggia, Po Delta, Chioggia 230 km 7 locks 35 hours travel
Week-end Chioggia, Venezia, Murano, Burano, 80 km 0 locks/bridges 12 hours travel
Torcello, San Francesco del Deserto,
Chioggia
Mini-week Chioggia, Venezia, Altino, 150 km 2 locks, 2 bridges 28 hours travel
Portegrandi, Jesolo, Chioggia
Mini-week Chioggia, Silea (Treviso), Chioggia 145 km 2 locks 21 hours travel
Mini-week Chioggia, Stra via Brenta Canal, 120 km 6 locks, 14 26 hours travel
Chioggia bridges
Week-end Chioggia, Po Delta, Chioggia 104 km 7 locks 17 hours travel
Mini-week
Two Weeks Chioggia to Grado via Idrovia 270 km 10 locks, 16 47 hours travel
Litoranea Veneta, Laguna di bridges
Marano, Laguna di Grado, Chioggia
Two Weeks Chioggia to Grado via Idrovia 370 km 10 locks, 20 62 hours travel
Litoranea Veneta, Laguna di bridges
Marano, Laguna di Grado, Chioggia

Rendez-Vous Fantasia
Via San Marco 1720
30019 Sottomarina (VENEZIA), Italy
Tel: +39 041 554 0016 www.rendez-vous-fantasia.com/

Crown Blue Line (serviced by Rendez-Vous Fantasia, Sottomarina)

www.crown-blueline.com/

Delta 80
Marina Nuova di Porto Levante
Via Colombo 37
45014 Portoviro, Italy
space.tin.it/viaggi/girbwm/delta01.html
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USEFUL INFORMATION

Tourism Office:
Azienda di Promozione Turistica di Venezia
Calle del Remedio
4421 Castello VENEZIA, Italy
Tel: +39-041 5298 711
Fax: +39-041 5230 399
www.turismovenezia.it/

Request these charts and brochures:

Carta Nautica dell’ Idrovia Litoranea Veneta nel Territorio della Provincia di Venezia
Carta Nautica dell’ Idrovia Litoranea Veneta nel Territorio della regione Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Laguna Nord
Riviera del Brenta

Moorings:
Venezia: East end, at Castello; Sailing Club San Elena Tel +39 041 521 0434
Southeast, island of San Giorgio, Darsena San Giorgio Tel +39 041 521 0723
Burano: on canal at southeast end of the island
La Vignole: on canal, at the center of the island (Rendez-Vous Fantasia mooring)
Murano: on Canal del Faro, at the bridge in the center of the island
Mazzorbo:on canal between Mazzorbo & Burano
San Erasmo: on Canal Passaora
Between Venezia & Chioggia: Malammocco, Darsena Venmar or public pontoon
Alberoni, public pontoon
San Pietro in Volta, restaurant Da Nane
Portosecco, restaurant Da Memo
Pellestrina, restaurant Da Celeste
Caroman, alongside vaporetto pontoon
Glossary:
attracco attrezzato mooring place
briccole bollards, channel marker posts
carta nautica nautical chart
conca lock
diramazioni principali main branch (of river or canal)
fiume river
idrovia waterway
isola island
mare sea
ponte bridge
porticciolo di fortuna emergency harbor
porto turistico marina
porto commerciale commercial port
Venetian Lagoon by Boat EuroCanals July 2002
Story by Martin Swain; Photos by Hildegard & Martin Swain

Last winter whilst thumbing through the boat charter catalogues we came across half a page towards the
back of one of them offering boats in the Venetian Lagoon in Italy. We followed this up with an Internet
search and found there were 3 charter companies offering Italy, although it later transpired that there are
really only two, one operating out of Chioggia at the southern end of the Lagoon, with his own boats and
Crown Blue Line boats, the other from Porto Levante, which is further south in the Po Delta. As there
were only two of us and our main target was Venice, we chose for our week-long trip one of the smaller
boats that Paolo Rabecca’s company Rendez-vous-fantasia was offering out of Chioggia.

We arrived in Chioggia on a windy, rainy day at the end of April. Chioggia, or rather Sottomarina where
the boats are moored, appeared as attractive as Blackpool (UK) or Atlantic City (US) on a windy, rainy
off-season day!. However by the time we had stowed our belongings in the compact Con-Fly 890
“Verdina”, and Mr Rabecca’s daughter Laura had given us the low-down on the boat and the do’s and
don’ts in the Lagoon (“just stay the marked side of the bollards1, remember to check the tide table, you
can’t sail up the Canal Grande!”) the sun had broken through the clouds and evening sun cast golden light
in the skyline of Sottomarina. However it remained too windy for us to leave the sheltered harbour that
evening, so we walked around the old town of Chioggia with its canals and fishing boats, and found a
very good fish restaurant (el Fontego) on the main square.

Bollards (bricola) mark the channel

The next morning we were given a test run by Paolo. There was still a strong wind coming off the sea, but
nothing like the day before. Paolo took us as far as the entrance to Chioggia harbour and then back to his
mooring. From the harbour entrance we could see a wide stretch of water with bollards and fishing net
markers scattered about and a strip of land separating the Lagoon from the sea. To the right there was an
opening out to the sea. Our route took us along the lee of a long thin island called Litorale di Pellestrina,
with the island to our right and the vast shimmering expanse of water as far as the eye could see to our
left.

1
The bollards are usually a triangle of three tree trunks sticking out of the water, one of which is marked with a white square.
At junctions there are more than three, bur one is longer than the others. Sounds complicated but it’s not. See photo.
At the end of Pellestrina, after an hour and a half, there is another opening to the sea before the island of
Litorale di Lido begins. Coming in from the sea was a large freighter on its way to the industrial complex
at Porto Maghera, barely visible on the horizon across the Lagoon. So we slowed down to let it pass and
avoid its wash, and then continued northwards in the lee of the Lido. The silhouette of Venice was
gradually materialising half left ahead of us.
As Paolo owns free moorings on the island of La Vignole we headed there first, diagonally across the
busy “crossroads” between the Lido, Venice and the Adriatic, leaving the shimmering buildings of Venice
to our left. La Vignole itself did not have much to offer, apart from calm after the exhilarating cruise up
from Chioggia; there is, however, a vaporeto station with a regular service to Murano and Venice. Across
the Lagoon we could see in one direction the outline of Venice, in the other the snow-capped mountains
on the mainland.

The next day after breakfast we left La Vignole in the morning haze. We had decided after studying the
map and information folder to tour the northern end of the Lagoon and so we sailed off northwards past
the islands of Murano, San Erasmus, San Francesco del Deserto, and Burano as the tide ebbed and the sun
rose higher. After a couple of hours we were in the less populated part of the Lagoon where only the small
fishing boats moved about checking their nets. Mud flats extended as far as the eye could see on both
sides of us with loud evidence of nesting birds until we reached the lock at Cavallino.
Here with only a slight change of levels we entered the river Sile. To the right toward the sea just under
the bridge there is a large modern marina where we filled up with water. The scenery on the river was
quite different; a wide fringe of tall rushes and a dyked bank beyond which on the right there was farm
land and on the left the Lagoon. After an hour we reached Jésolo where there is a moving bridge. The
landing stage by the bridge was occupied, so we tied up to a restaurant boat and went to look for the
bridge-keeper. After passing the bridge we found there was no landing stage or anywhere to moor, so we
had to leave Jésolo without having a look around.
After another 90 minutes we reached Caposile, the northern most point of our tour. There was again
nowhere to land properly so we had to jump ashore to find the bridge-keeper. This time it was a pontoon
that was slowly heaved to one side for us to pass. Above the bridge was a new jetty by the church so we
moored there. It was in any case mid-afternoon by then. Behind the church was the agricultural
cooperative where we were able to stock up with fresh food and wine. That evening in the local restaurant
we watched the busses full of day-tourists returning from Venice to their cheaper accommodation on the
mainland, and were pleased to know our beds were just across the road.
The next morning we discovered that the tide had gone out and we were aground. The tidal pattern in the
river was quite different to that in the Lagoon so that all our studying of tide-tables did not help. The
bridge-keeper said wait a couple of hours. So we tested the local wine and as he had said by late morning
we were off on our way.
At Portegrandi there is a lock back into the Lagoon, or if you choose you can travel up the Sile to Treviso.
We wanted to return to the Lagoon and to explore Venice. The lock was open when we arrived and there
was again only a small difference in levels. Below the lock there were no moorings available so we
continued along the River Silone which was described as particularly shallow. We were there at high tide
and it was wide and flowing, however when we took off from Venice Marco Polo airport on the way
home we saw a very different picture at low tide.

The lock (conca) at Portegrandi

The river meandered for a while and at a turn we were back in the Lagoon. After 2 hours w e were
approaching a group of islands with tall church spires, Torcello and Burano. On Burano, which is famous
for its colourful houses, there is another free mooring so we headed straight there.
Burano
Once we had moored we took the vaporeto across to Torcello, which used once to be more important than
Venice and has the oldest buildings in the Lagoon (4th Century). There were also good quiet moorings
there, once the day-tourists and their boats have left. However we stayed in Burano and discovered
another excellent fish restaurant (Al Gatto Nero).

Our mooring proved to be

a little exposed and we had
a rough night. The next
morning we decided to
take a look at San
Francesco del Deserto, an
island monastery, 15
minutes from Burano, and
recommended in our guide.
It was low tide and the
landing stage was difficult
to reach. There was a
mooring place in the
entrance canal, but a large
Crown Blue Line boat was
already moored there. We
hopped ashore very briefly,
but did not stay.
We then headed back to Burano, before we sailed off
towards Venice. On the way we passed the glass
factories of Murano. From there onwards the water was
very busy, vaporeti, ferries, tourist boats and any number
of water-taxis, commercial and private boats. After
passing the cemetery island of S. Michele we turned left
to circle Venice clockwise.
At the Arsenale we watched a tanker being towed out of
its dock as we made a short stop at San Pietro; the
documents on the boat suggested a mooring there,
however it was the May 1 holiday and the boatyard was
closed. We were never sure if we could moor there or
not, and in any case it is very exposed. We continued
clockwise and entered the yacht harbour Santa Elena, at
the eastern corner of Venice in the district of Castello.
We stayed there two nights at the guest mooring and
explored Venice by vaporetto and foot.
The second night we were joined by a chartered boat
from Porto Lavente, and were able to exchange
information with the crew. They had been up the river
Brenta, much praised for its villas and palaces, but their
experience was that it was “hard work” for a crew of
three, as there were a number of locks and moving
bridges to pass, and at Padua, which is really worth a
visit, they could not find a mooring place.
That night the port master warned of a storm on its way over the Adriatic. The next morning we were to
leave for Chioggia anyhow, so we started in reasonably good time and sailed into Venice through a
shower of rain and a choppy sea.

We sailed up as far as St. Mark’s and the Doges’ Palace, turning left past La Guidecca before the
entrance to the Canal Grande and finally through a small canal by S. Giorgio Maggiore back into the open
Lagoon.
On the way south we stopped at Porto Secco in Pellestrina, walked across the island to the sea. It was very
windy on the beach, but fortunately our side was well protected. We reached Chioggia just before the
storm did. It turned out to be another rough night, but we had enjoyed a week of warm sunny spring
weather, so it did not bother us.
All in all we retain a favourable memory of our week in the Lagoon with its incredible colour and light,
its unexpected extensiveness and irregular tide cycles. It’s certainly not a tour for beginners, but highly
recommendable for aficionados. The boat was small, but with ample room for two. It would be crowded if
all the berths were in use, and the weather not so good. The kitchen had all we needed and there was a
spacious covered deck aft. We are still not sure where we can land and where not, but usually someone
tells you soon enough if it’s the wrong place!! And next time we would moor for the night in Torcello or
San Francesco del Deserto instead of Burano, although that would mean missing Al Gatto Nero!

Places where we enjoyed eating:

Trattoria Al Gatto Nero
Fondamenta Giudecca 88
I-30012 Burano
Ristorante El Fontego
Ptta. xx Settembre 497
Chioggia
Hosteria Al Bacareto
San Samuele 3447
I-30124 Venezia (Venice)
Vini da Gigio
Cannaregio 3628/A
I-30131 Venezia (Venice)
VENETIAN LAGOON BY BOAT
Note: There are hundreds of islands, lagunas and other named areas in Laguna Veneta that are not shown
on this sketch; only the major islands and ports relative to the story are shown.

3
Caposile

Jesolo
Sile River Portegrandi

Altino

Cavallino

Torcello
Burano
Murano 4
Marco Polo
S. Erasmo
Airport
S.Michele La Vignole
2
Santa Elena
Mestre 5,6
Lido di Venezia
Venezia

Laguna
Veneta

Adriatic Sea

Pellestrina

Chioggia
Sottomarina
1, 7
Overnight Stops on this trip are shown in red

EuroCanals July 2002

Rental Base:
Rendez-Vous Fantasia
Via San Marco 1720
30019 Sottomarina (VENEZIA)
Italy
Tel: +39 041 554 0016
www.rendez-vous-fantasia.com

The Boat:
Con – Fly 890 (8.9 meters X 3.2 meters)

Two cabins with a double bed at the prow. Dinette convertible into two bunk-beds.

Other Rental Bases:

Crown Blue Line (serviced by Rendez-Vous Fantasia, Sottomarina)
http://www.crown-blueline.com/

Delta 80
Marina Nuova di Porto Levante
Via Colombo 37
45014 Portoviro, Italy
http://space.tin.it/viaggi/girbwm/delta01.html
Your Own Vessel in Europe
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Bringing Your Vessel to Europe

Ship my boat from America to Europe to cruise the canals? Are you crazy?

Well, no, bringing a vessel that you already own to cruise in Europe is a feasible option, others have done it.
You might not agree when you are haggling with officials at Antwerp, but it's not impossible as long as you are
thoroughly prepared with documents. I live in Paris on the Canal St. Martin, near the Arsenal Marina, and it is
not unusual to see private vessels there from around the world. Most often, they are oceangoing sailboats that
have lowered their masts for inland waterway cruising. Passagemaker trawlers will usually not work, because
their draft and height are too great for many canals. But smaller motorboats can be shipped to a European port
and enter the waterway network from Le Havre, Rotterdam, Antwerp or several other locations.

The obvious question of cost comes to mind first. But, assuming that you are already thinking of buying a vessel
in Europe, compare the shipping cost against the various costs involved in locating and buying a suitable vessel.
Just the travel costs will be significant (air, rail, rental car, hotels, etc) and, unless you are lucky and complete
the entire purchase in one trip, you will likely repeat those costs a couple of times. Then there are the expenses
of a survey (possibly two, one for the hull and equipment, another for the engine) and paperwork costs such as
the services of a notary. It is likely that the total of these costs will not be much different from the shipping cost.

Another cost to consider is that of transporting your personal belongings to Europe, which can be substantial.
Even more important than cost are the things that you will leave behind because you feel it is too expensive to
have them shipped. As noted later, the shipping cost for your boat is likely to be based on volume, not weight,
so you can fill the boat up with all of the important things that you will want.

The whole idea hinges on the vessel that you already own. Assuming that you feel comfortable with it and have
equipped it to your own needs, think about whether it is suitable for canal travel in the areas that you wish to
cruise (information regarding limits of draft, height and beam have been published in our issues The Waterways
of...France, England, Germany, Jan-Feb-Mar 2001.)

If you haven't already done it, get accurate measurements of the vessel and convert them to metric (1 meter =
39.37 inches = 3.28 feet and 1 kilogram = 2.2 lbs.) You will need to know your length, beam, water draft,
height (air draft) and displacement. The height above water should be measured after all antennas, masts and
flybridge shields have been lowered.

The most common limitation on American vessels will be height; most European vessels built for inland
waterways are designed to be as low as possible, in order to pass under stone arch bridges and low-ceilinged
tunnels. The second significant difference is the type of engine; diesel engines are prevalent in Europe, so diesel
fuel is much more widely available. That doesn't eliminate a gasoline-powered vessel, just makes travel more
inconvenient and more expensive.

So, if you have decided that you do own a suitable vessel, start planning. The most important preparation is to
obtain as many documents as possible that certify both the vessel and your own skills as captain. Officials at the
port of entry and on the inland waterways are best dealt with by presenting them with an organized and complete
portfolio.
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For the vessel, these documents should include proof of ownership (Bill of Sale, Manufacturer's Statement of
Origin, sales tax receipt, etc.) If the vessel has been surveyed, include the surveyor's report; it should describe
the physical characteristics of the vessel. US Coast Guard Documentation is desirable, available for vessels
larger than 5 tons displacement. There are consultants who will handle the documentation paperwork for you
(one such company can be contacted at www.boatdocumentation.com ), but I recommend first reading the USCG
information at www.uscg.mil/hq/g-m/vdoc/nvdc.htm For vessels smaller than 5 tons, state registration is usually
required and should be up-to-date. Make sure that the registration sticker is on the vessel and that the certificate
is in your portfolio.

The vessel should have an up-to-date safety inspection by the Coast Guard or the CG Auxiliary, and the
appropriate sticker should be installed. If the inspection finds suitable navigation lighting, fire extinguishers,
life jackets, emergency flares, etc, then you will be properly equipped for European cruising. On arrival you
may need to comply with certain regulations but these should be minor and easily accomplished.

Next is the question of your own certification. If your state licenses boaters, you probably already have a
suitable license. If not, and certainly you should do this anyway, take courses given by the Coast Guard
Auxiliary and the US Power Squadron; put the certificates in the portfolio.

Now, how do you get it here? Assuming that it is not a suitable oceangoing vessel, it will have to be shipped
aboard a freighter. There are now several companies that specialize in the international transport of vessels, even
large superyachts and trawlers. (Refer to an extensive article describing this service in the Fall 1999 issue of
PassageMaker Magazine; 1-410-990-9088 or www.passagemaker.com ) For smaller boats, check with one of the
many companies that ship automobiles to Europe, they will probably be able to deal with boats as well. Pricing
is based on volume in cubic feet, that's one of the reasons that you will need to know the dimensions of your
vessel. A list of these companies can be found at www.movecars.com. Or contact a more general forwarder,
such as Manaco International Freight Forwarders (1-954-463-6910 or www.mifi.com ).

An excellent book that should be purchased by anyone planning to cruise on their own vessel (whether it is
transported as above or bought in Europe) is The European Waterways, A Manual for First-Time Users by
Marian Martin (Paperback, 168 pages, Adlard Coles Nautical, London 1997.) It includes information on suitable
boats and their equipment, waterway regulations and signs, and basic boat-handling techniques on inland
waterways and in locks. This book is highly recommended and is widely available from maritime bookstores or
amazon.com at about $21 to $27.

Tom Sommers March 2001

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Barge Handling Courses & Licensing

We frequently receive questions about documentation and licensing of both a vessel and its captain. This report
will address licensing of the skipper of a vessel in France; a French license will usually be accepted in other EC
countries, at least if the vessel is in transit rather than a long-term stay. It is possible to cruise with only a
certificate of competency or boating license from your home country, but the actual regulations in France,
Belgium, Holland and Germany require formal testing and licensing, thus you may encounter a harbormaster or
waterway official who will ask to see a license valid in that country, so the best advice is to pass the tests and
become licensed.

Les Certificats de Capacité (licenses) for operating a pleasure boat on French inland waters are:
The "S" (bateau de sport) category is for high-powered sport boats (such as used for water skiing)
that operate at high speed only in designated areas of rivers and lakes. High-powered is defined as
T greater than 1 (T= 1.9 X horsepower/length squared).

The "C" (coche de plaisance) category is relevant to all low-powered canal cruisers of 15 meters or
less and T less than 1. The certificate requires a written test and an onboard practical test. However,
a temporary carte de plaisance is issued to anyone chartering a self-skippered boat by the rental-base
operator, with no testing other than their judgment of the skipper's general competence (if they will
trust you with their boat, they will issue the temporary license.)

The "PP" (péniche de plaisance) category is stated in "Code Vagnon Fluvial" (see Books, below) as
being required for vessels of 15 meters to 24 meters and T less than 1. In practice, other certificates
such as the International Certificate of Competence (ICC) are accepted for vessels up to 24 meters, and
the PP Class 1 certificate is valid up to 39 meters. The certificate requires a doctor's physical exam, a
written test and an onboard practical test.

There are several bateaux-écoles in France who are in the business of preparing skippers for these tests, one right
in Paris at the Arsenal Marina (Bastille.) However, these are French-speaking courses and may be difficult
unless your French is good. A better-rounded experience is available as a weekend or weeklong "hands-on"
cruise aboard an English-speaking owner-operated barge that will prepare you to pass the tests.

Tam & Di Murrell's Boating for Enthusiasts offers several days aboard their Dutch barge Friesland for up to
four persons (two double guest cabins.) This is a great introduction to cruising the continental waterways for
anyone from the new and inexperienced to the highly competent boater or sailor. They concentrate on the
practical hands-on operation of the barge, while also introducing the CEVNI rules of the road, proper VHF
radio techniques and the syllabus for the French PP certificate. At the same time, you will enjoy a barge cruise
that will give you a true taste of France and the barge-cruising lifestyle.

Three options are available:

1. Weekend Courses, April & May; Friday-Saturday-Sunday nights aboard, two full days intensive training on the
Canal de St Quentin from their base at Cambrai. Cost per person sharing a double cabin is £265 (about $400.)
2. Mid-week Courses, April & May; same as above except Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday nights aboard.
3. Long Weekend Courses, September; 4 nights aboard, Thursday-Sunday, in Champagne, based at Épernay. The
same training as above but more time for just enjoying cruising in France. Cost per person sharing a double
cabin is £375 (about $560.)
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These courses can be followed by a (very simple) test of the CEVNI rules of the road to obtain the ICC, which
is accepted in France for visiting vessels up to 24 meters. Boating for Enthusiasts also offers an intensive
weekend study course to prepare for the French PP certificate, required for vessels above 24 meters and up to
39 meters.

The PP Weekend is for experienced boaters who already have the ICC, preferably obtained in the courses
described above. It is an ideal solution for those whose French-speaking ability is limited or do not have a boat
in France on which to take the practical test. This session is non-residential; you will need to reserve a hotel
(Tam & Di can help with arrangements.) The cost of the course is £260 (about $500) per person. A local doctor's
physical exam is necessary; the cost of this and the examination fees are not included (approximately $120.)
For a brochure and full details, contact tamanddi@bargehandling.com Tel/Fax +44 (0) 208 755 1554,
mobile +33 (0) 603 845 033. Visit http://bargehandling.com/

Weeklong skipper training courses are also offered aboard "Vertrouwen", the Dutch barge that was the subject
of the book Barging In Europe by Roger Van Dyken. (If you haven't read this book, you should do so before
planning the purchase of a barge in Europe.) A rigorous curriculum focuses on barge handling techniques, rules
of the road and essential operating skills. Advice is also offered on where and how to buy a barge. A certificate
is presented on "graduation" that, while not a license, indicates proficiency and prepares you for the French or
the Dutch official tests. The course is based in southern Burgundy or in Holland. Along with the training, a week
aboard a handsome Dutch barge will make a wonderful vacation, at less cost than a hotel barge cruise.
For information, visit www.bargingineurope.com or e-mail johnkroontje@bargingineurope.com

Books, Video:
Barging in Europe, by Roger van Dyken; Cedarbrook, Lynden, WA, 1997. Softbound, 8 1/8"H X 5 ¼" W,
160 pages. Black & white photos. About $20. Available from amazon.com. Based on an American family's
experience of buying a Dutch barge and traveling the waterways of Holland, Belgium, France and Germany for
18 months, this book is a practical, hands-on guide to handling a barge on European waterways. It is almost
entirely about the barge itself, with details on locating a suitable vessel, selecting the proper equipment, and then
navigating through both the easy and the difficult waterways found in Europe. It's a step-by-step guide to
achieving a dream. Recommended for anyone thinking of buying or operating a vessel in Europe, even if the
eventual selection turns out to be a much smaller boat.
The European Waterways, A Manual for First Time Users by Marian Martin; Adlard Coles Nautical,
London, 1997. Softbound, 9 ¼" H X 6 1/8" W, 168 pages. Black & white photos and drawings. About $20.
A very thorough guide to the rules & regulations of European waterways, along with good descriptions of
handling small boats. Interesting descriptions of the five major ports used by UK boaters to enter the European
waterways system. Recommended for all owner/skippers.
Code Vagnon Fluvial, Le Permis Bateau, Rivières et Lacs Les Éditions du Plaisancier, Miribel, France, 2001.
Softbound, 8 ¼" H X 5 3/8" W, 208 pages. Color drawings. About $11. Although written in French, the use of
simple drawings throughout the book makes it easily usable. It is intended to prepare novice boaters for the
written tests for certificates C-S-PP, and includes information on the Belgian certificate as well. It also satisfies
the French requirement that a copy of the European waterway rules (CEVNI) be available on the vessel. The
CEVNI rules are also included in English in Marian Martin's book above, or in a separate book by Martin.
Barge Handling In France, an instruction video, By Tam & Di Murrell. Video, available in NTSC (USA) or
PAL (UK) formats, 65 minutes. About $50 with shipping. If you are thinking of buying a barge to cruise in
Europe, or if you own a barge and are preparing for the French certificate test, watching this video will be the
best hour that you can devote to the project. Go to: http://bargehandling.com
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Planning A Cruise: Using the Guides
Not many experienced boaters will set
off on a cruise without pre-planning,
although there are occasionally those to
be found at the helm of a vessel with only
a highway map or tourist brochure as a
guide. Fortunately, several publishers
offer detailed guidebooks and charts of
the European waterways (we regularly
list these and review them here in our
newsletter.) It is helpful, and fun, to
obtain these guides well before a trip and
make some preliminary plans.
The EuroCanals Guide that we
include with each issue is intended to
provide just such pre-planning informa-
tion. The waterway feature article will
help in selecting which waterway to con-
sider for a cruise and its associated guide
can then be used as a resource in decid-
ing the starting point, turnaround point
or destination, and the length of time
needed to accomplish the trip. Here are
our suggestions for using these guides:
First, of course, read the article
through to see if this is a waterway that
you want to visit. Then go back through
the article with the guide map handy, to
judge the degree of difficulty of the route
and the time required. The map locates
the waterway within the country, show-
ing the nearby major cities, to help in
“how to get there”. Select a starting point
and follow along the plan view of the
waterway while also monitoring the ele-
vation graph and the lock number scale.
Obviously, if you are traveling on your
own vessel rather than a rental boat or
hotel barge, you would first check the
water draft and air draft limitations,
shown as “Minimum Depth” and
“Minimum Height”, to be sure that your
vessel will fit.
The elevation graph was developed by
EuroCanals because nearly all of the
guidebooks and charts do not include
such a useful presentation (it can be
found in a few editions, in less detailed
format.) We plot the rise or descent of
each lock against the distance along the
waterway. A slowly rising or descending
line means that locks are relatively few
and are spaced at some distance from
each other. Conversely, a steep line
Page 5
means that locks are frequent or even
connected in a flight or staircase; a con-
siderable amount of time will be needed
to negotiate these locks and appropriate
planning will be useful.
Take a look at the guide for the Canal
du Rhône au Rhin included in this issue:
starting from St. Symphorien, the canal
makes a steady and even climb to the
summit, with a few short steeper sec-
tions. After the summit at Montreux-
Château, it descends very steeply down
to Mulhouse, coincidentally located at
approximately the same elevation as
Thoraise. Using the kilometer and lock
number scales, it is easy to calculate that
the canal drops as far from the summit in
25 km/25 locks as it rose in 136 km/54
locks from Thoraise to the summit. This
will help answer a question such as “Do I
have time to go all the way to Mulhouse,
or should I turn around at Montbeliard?”
For pre-planning purposes, it’s best to
be conservative; use a cruising speed of 4
km per hour and a locking time of fifteen
minutes per lock (actual speed may be 6-8
km per hour in some sections, and locking
From To Distance
St-Jean-de-Losne Dole 23 km
Dole Besancon 55
Besancon Baume 36
Baume Montbeliard 55
Montbeliard Summit 19
Summit Mulhouse 31
time is often faster in flights of locks, but
there will be delays for traffic, tunnels,
sightseeing, shopping, etc.) The table
estimates the travel time between
selected points.
These from/to towns have been ran-
domly selected, but they do make certain
points regarding trip planning. The arti-
cle in this issue recommends traveling
the first leg in one day, stopping at Dole;
the total time calculated is 8 1⁄4 hours.
This is probably too conservative for this
leg (easy navigation, no reason to stop
enroute), so one day is feasible. On the
other hand, Besancon to Baume is calcu-
lated to require 11 3⁄4 hours. This is a
stretch of difficult navigation and stops
www.eurocanals.com
are recommended, so the estimate
shouldn’t be shortened and it would be a
good idea to consider a mooring in
between (perhaps at Deluz, or tied-up in
front of Chez Soi, if the pontoon is avail-
able.) Don’t forget to check on the lock
schedule, shown on the guide map, to be
sure that a day of traveling won’t be lost
due to holiday closures. (This can be
learned the hard way, see the Nivernais
article, Sept 2000.)
The guide information page on the
back of the map offers a range of useful
addresses and telephone numbers, along
with other items to help in planning
where and when to stop. For instance,
towns with rail stations are listed, useful
if crew will be joining or leaving the
cruise partway through. Street market
days are listed (when known) to help in
planning for replenishment of provisions.
Some hotels are recommended, for use
before or after a cruise. Sites of interest
that are some distance away from the
canal are listed, sometimes with trans-
portation suggestions, otherwise you will
need to judge for yourself whether to
Time # Locks Time Total Time
5 3⁄4 hrs 10 2 1⁄2 hrs 8 1⁄4 hrs
13 3⁄4 16 4 17 3⁄4
9 11 2 3⁄4 11 3⁄4
13 3⁄4 25 6 1⁄4 20
4 3⁄4 11 2 3⁄4 7 1⁄2
7 3⁄4 33 8 1⁄4 16
walk, bike or find a taxi or friendly native
with a car (travelers on larger barges
may have their own car on deck.)
Navigation Guides and Charts
Although it is sometimes difficult to
obtain the recommended guidebooks in
advance, it’s a good idea to get them if
you can and study them (rental boat
operators usually will include a guide
with the contract, or at least offer to sell
it; refer to our website for mail-order
sources.) As we have written in several
issues, there is usually more than one
publication for a selected waterway; each
one is different and it’s not a bad idea to
buy all that are available. After all, the
July-August 2001
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Guide to the Guides
Charts & Guides for French Waterways
Skippers of privately owned or rental
canal cruisers or barges should not travel
without a detailed chart/guidebook of the
waterway; even guests on hotel barge
cruises may enjoy following the route with
their own guidebook. There are three
major French publishers (listed below) of
planning charts and detailed navigation
guides, commonly referred to as navi-
carte, Vagnon and EDB.
Overall trip-planning information is
available from each publisher on country-
wide or regional charts. Refer to the
December 2000 issue of this newsletter for
an index of all waterways in France and a
list of the planning charts.
Detailed navigation guides are published
as softbound books in trilingual format,
French/English/German, with color photos
and maps. Prices range from $10 to $20
each. All three include the same types of
basic information:
• Distance along the canal, marked by
kilometer post (PK 1, PK 2, etc.)
• Distance between locks, in kilometers
(to three decimal points), useful for
estimating arrival time.
• Bridges over the canal and canal
bridges across streams and rivers.
• Towns, roads, highways and rail lines
near the canal.
• Locks: Name/number of lock,
orientation of gates (< < points
uphill), descent/rise in meters.
• Dimensions: Minimum depth of water,
height above water (bridge
clearance), lock size.
• Ports: showing location and the types
of services available (potable water,
electricity, showers, etc.)
• Rental Boat Bases: location, name and
telephone number of company.
• Signs: pictorial legend of official signs
and signals.
• Notes on history, landmarks,
sightseeing, shopping and services.
• Useful Addresses and telephone
numbers.
A suggestion on using these books
aboard: the paperback binding used by all
three publishers does not allow the books
to remain open reliably while cruising, so
be sure to bring heavy-duty clips that will
hold the book open at the desired page.
Also, Post-It and other manufacturers now
offer handy adhesive place-markers. (The
Vagnon guides do include an extra-wide
flap inside the front cover that is useful as
a place-marker.) It is not helpful for the
skipper to be searching for the right page
while approaching a lock!
Navicarte Voies Navigable Éditions
Grafocarte, 125, rue Jean-Jacques Rouseau,
BP 40, 92132 ISSY-LES-MOULINEAUX
CEDEX, France. www.grafocarte.fr
Narrow strip maps of canal sections
(showing approximately four kilometers
width on a chart 3 1/4" wide, or in some
editions 4 1/2 km on 4 3 /4" wide) are
aligned vertically on the page, regardless
of compass orientation; a North arrow is
provided, but it may point in any direction
on the page. Details of locks, towns, land-
marks and service facilities are shown in a
strip alongside. The individual charts are
indexed on an overall map of the water-
way. Interesting and historical sights in
major towns are described.

Navicarte Voies Navigable, Guides Currently Available

Guide # Title Waterways Included
1 La Seine aval River Seine (from Le Havre to Paris)
2 La Seine amont River Seine (from Paris to Marcilly-sur-Seine, end of navigation)
3 La Marne River Marne (from Paris to Vitry-le-Francois), Canal latéral à la Marne
6 Canaux du Centre C du Loing, C de Briare, C latéral à la Loire, C du Centre, C de Roanne à Digoin
7 Canal du Nivernais Canal du Nivernais (from Decize to Auxerre)
8 Champagne-Ardenne River Meuse (to Namur, BE), C des Ardennes, C de l’Aisne à la Marne,
C latéral à la Marne, C de la Marne à la Saône, R Saône, Petite Saône
9 Canal de l’Est River Meuse/Maas (to Maastricht, NL), River Sambre, C de l’Est br. Nord & Sud
10 La Saône et la Seille River Saône (from Corre to Lyon), R Seille (from Louhans to R Saône)
11 Canaux du Midi Gironde, R Garonne, C lat à la Garonne, R Baïse, R Lot to Villeneuve,
Canal du Midi, C de la Robine, C du Rhône à Sète, Petit Rhône
12 Bretagne C de Nantes à Brest (Nantes to Pontivy, does not include R Aulne section),
C d’Ille et Rance, R Vilaine, C de Blavet, R Erdre
13 Pays de la Loire R Loire, R Maine, R Oudon, R Mayenne, R Sarthe, R Erdre
14 Nord-Pas-de-Calais C du Nord, R Escaut, R Scarpe, C de la Deule, C de Roubaix, R Lys, C de Calais, R Aa,
C de Bourbourg, C de Bergues, C de Furnes
16 Le Rhône River Rhône (Lyon to the Med), Petit Rhône, C d’Arles à Fos
17 Canal de la Marne au Rhin C de la Marne au Rhin (Est), C des Houillères, R Sarre,
C du Rhône au Rhin branche Nord
18 Bourgogne C du Nivernais, C de Bourgogne, R Yonne, R Seine, R Saône
19 Bourgogne Est C du Nivernais, C de Bourgogne, R Saône, C du Centre,
Canal latéral à la Loire, C de Roanne à Digoin,
20 Bourgogne Ouest C du Nivernais, R Yonne, R Seine, C du Loing, C de Briare, C latéral à la Loire
24 Picardie C de la Somme, R Oise, C lat à l’Oise, C du Nord, C Sambre à l’Oise,
R Aisne, C latéral à l’Aisne, C de St Quentin, R Sambre
25 La Charente River Charente (from Angoulême to the Atlantic)
27 Le Lot River Lot (from Luzech to St Cirq-Lapopie)
28 La Baïse et le Lot aval River Baïse (from Valence to St Leger), R Lot (from Nicole to Villeneuve)

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Guide Vagnon de Tourisme Fluvial, by
Jean Morlot, Les Éditions du Plaisancier,
B.P. 27 – 100, ave Général Leclerc, 69641
CALUIRE CEDEX, France. Tel +33 478 23
31 14 Fax +33 478 23 48 16.
This guide is unusual in that the canal
section maps are always laid out horizon-
tally on the page; according to the author
this makes them easy to read from left to
right or vice-versa, depending on the
direction of travel (rather than sometimes
having to read a vertical map from bottom
to top.) (As with the Navicarte guides, a
North arrow is provided, but it may point
in any direction on the page.) Charts are
purposely drawn to irregular scale in
order to more clearly show certain fea-
tures; I find this confusing. I have also
found some of the adjoining roads to be
shown inaccurately. Some editions
include a unique and useful feature: cross-
section dimensional drawings of the most
restrictive bridges, showing the height not
only at the center but also at the width
marked. Many color photos are included,
along with advertisements from local
tourism agencies, restaurants, vineyards
and other services; these ads can be help-
ful or irritating, depending on your per-
sonal preference.

Guide # Title Waterways Included

1 Mini Atlas Individual charts of all waterways in France
2 Guide du Doubs Canal du Rhône au Rhin (from St-Jean-de-Losne to Niffer)
3 Bourgogne Centre C du Nivernais, C de Bourgogne, R Yonne, R Seine, C du Loing, C de Briare,
C lat à la Loire, C de Roanne à Digoin, C du Centre, R Saône
5 Rhône River Rhône (from Lyon to the Mediterranean), Petit Rhône
6 Saône et Seille River Saône, River Seille, R Moselle, Canal des Vosges, Petite Saône
7 Canaux du Midi R Garonne, C lat à la Garonne, R Baïse (to Condom), R Lot (Luzech to Cregols),
Baïse et Lot C du Midi, C de la Robine, Petit Rhône, C du Rhône à Sète, R Lez, Étang de Thau
8 Meuse, C de l’Est River Meuse/Maas (to Maastricht, NL), Canal de l’Est branche Nord & Sud
10 Bretagne C de Nantes à Brest, C d’Ille et Rance, River Vilaine, C de Blavet, R Aulne,
Loire Atlantique R Loire, R Sevre Nantaise, R Erdre
11 Pays de la Loire R Loire, R Sevre Nantaise, R Maine, R Oudon, R Mayenne, R Sarthe, R Cher, C Berry
12 Lorraine Est C de la Marne au Rhin (Est), C des Houillères, R Sarre,
Alsace C du Rhône au Rhin branche Nord
13 Lorraine Ouest C de la Marne au Rhin (Ouest), C de l’Est branche Nord, R Moselle

Guide Fluvial EDB (Éditions du Breil)
Éditions du Breil, Domaine de Fitou, Le
Breil, 11400 CASTELNAUDARY, France.
Tel +33 468 23 51 35 Fax +33 468 23 56
59, E-mail breil.@wanadoo .fr
The EDB guide is the favorite of many
frequent or full-time cruisers, as well as
this reviewer; I personally prefer to use
maps or charts with North always at the
top of the page, which is not the case with
the two guides above. While compass
directions are unimportant in canal travel
(you can, after all, only follow the relative-
ly narrow route of the canal and what
counts are the landmarks that you will
next approach), it is disorienting to me if
the pages are presented in varying com-
pass directions. The large size of the indi-
vidual maps is also very helpful, often dis-
playing 4.5 kilometers on a chart 7 1/4"
wide, extending further into the adjoining
countryside than the first two guides. It is
easy to relate from page-to-page, and to
find your way to nearby sites by foot, bicy-
cle or car. The charts are accurately
drawn to scale, with a scale bar shown on
every page for quick measurement of dis-
tances. A unique and useful planning fea-
ture is a table of distance, number of
locks and travel time between certain
towns. A worthwhile feature not included
by the other publishers is a mention of the
market day in many towns.

Guide # Title Waterways Included

1 Bretagne
2 Loire Nivernais
3 Bourgogne
Franche-Comté
4 Alsace Lorraine
5 Lot
6 Charente
7 Midi, Camargue,
Aquitaine
8 Ile-de-France
9 C Rhône au Rhin
10 Pays de la Loire
11 Bourgogne
C de Nantes à Brest (all navigable sections), Rance Maritime, C d’Ille et Rance,
River Vilaine, C de Blavet, R Aulne, R Erdre, R Sevre Nantaise
C du Nivernais, R Yonne, R Seine, C du Loing, C de Briare, C lat à la Loire,
C de Roanne à Digoin, C du Centre
C de Bourgogne, C du Centre, R Saône, R Seille, C de la Marne à la Saône,
Canal des Vosges, R Doubs, Canal du Rhône au Rhin
C de la Marne au Rhin, C de l’Est (branche Nord & Sud), R Moselle,
C du Rhône au Rhin branche Nord, C des Houillères de la Sarre, canals at Nancy,
R Lot (all navigable sections), R Baïse (from Buzet to St Leger)
R Charente
R Garonne, C lat à la Garonne, R Baïse, R Lot, C de Montech, C du Midi,
C du Rhône à Sète, C de la Robine, Petit Rhône, C d’Arles à Bouc, R Lez, Étang de Thau
Ile-de-France & Champagne (Out of Print, currently unavailable.)
Canal du Rhône au Rhin (from St Jean-de-Losne to Niffer)
R Loire, R Maine, R Oudon, R Mayenne, R Sarthe
C du Nivernais, C de Bourgogne, R Yonne

Sources: The guides can be purchased, with limited availability, at ports, chandleries, bookstores and various other locations along
the waterways. To purchase them in advance by mail order, refer to the December 2000 issue of this newsletter for full-line book-
stores in Paris or go to our website, www.eurocanals.com; in the Subscribers Only section, click on Links/Maps & Charts.

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trip will cost in the thousands of dollars,
or perhaps you have already spent
$100,000 or more for your own vessel,
why not spend $20 to $50 to get as much
information as possible?
Study these guidebooks and charts
thoroughly, use a highliter and write
notes. When cruising, these books will be
at the helm station and need to ready for
easy consultation; mark the items that
are important to your cruise. Each book
has a legend of symbols, some of which
may be rather obscure; look them up in
advance and write a note on the page if
necessary. The first time that you look at
a page in the Vagnon guide, for instance,
you may wonder what the circle contain-
ing the number 10 with an arrow means.
It’s very important, it’s the distance of the
center of the channel from the bank, so
understand it before the information is
needed. Also note that it is in meters, so
get a picture in mind of the length of 10
meters beforehand (perhaps it is the
length of your boat, or one-half a boat
length, or three times the beam, etc.)
Learn which markings are used for haz-
ardous or narrow sections of the water-
way, or where mooring is prohibited.
Perhaps you will want to plan the trip
in some detail, possibly using a computer
spreadsheet. By doing this before the
cruise, you will become more familiar
with the waterway than just by reading
the page and you will create a log in
advance that can be consulted quickly
while enroute. Beginning at the starting
point of the trip, enter each waypoint
from the chart under these suggested
Kilometer Lock # Rise/Fall Lock Name
0 75 +3.10 m Saone
0.415 74 +2.70 Laperriere
1.046 73 +2.56 La Tuilerie
6.814 72 +2.84 l’Abergement
headings (an example with just a few
points is shown):
The data used in this example is taken
from Vagnon #2, which lists for each lock
information such as “Ecluse No. 74
Laperriere electrique (2,70) K 0.415” and in
some cases the telephone number at the
lock. “Kilometer” is the cumulative dis-
tance from the starting point; “Distance” is
the distance from the previous point (1.046
- 0.415 = 0.63) You may want to check off
Channel to follow
each lock or waypoint as it is passed, keep-
ing track of progress and thus ready for the Navigable waterway
upcoming point. An additional column for Non-navigable branch
comments may help, such as “watch for
Barrage - Weir
overhead pipeline”.
Signals similar to roadway signs will be Ecluse - Lock, arrow points
toward summit
posted along the waterway; the meaning
Automatic lock
of some of them may not be immediately
apparent, so a booklet or waterproof Stop (garde) lock
sheet explaining them will be of great Narrow passage
help. If these aids are not onboard, pur- Lift bridge
chase them at ports or bookstores. Of the Stones, rocks
three guidebooks used in preparing this Distance between locks
issue, only Navicarte has a section Side weir
explaining some of these signals. Towpath
Planning can be assisted by reading
Falaises - Cliffs
about the proposed route in Cruising
Shoal
French Waterways by Hugh McKnight, a Overhead power line
standard reference book used by many
cruisers. However it is entirely in text for- Ramp
mat (with many interesting photos) so it is Mooring
difficult to use as an enroute guide. More Water at the quay
importantly, it was first published in 1984 Diesel fuel
and although it was updated for the Third Electricity
Edition in 1999, it is not always accurate. Restaurant
For instance, the description of the Canal Showers
du Rhône au Rhin includes the statement
Telephone
“Be sure to replenish water supplies at
Écluse 71, La Ronce (K8.3), as the next Mechanic
opportunity does not arise until Écluse 59, Boatyard
37 km ahead.” This statement, and the Crane
next paragraph describing Dole, totally Refuse disposal
ignore the excellent and well-equipped Channel 15 m from bank
port there (with water available there and Floating red/white buoy
at three other locations prior to Écluse
Floating black/white buoy
59.) Read the book for its excellent histor-
Fixed red/white stake
ical, scenic and cultural descriptions, but
Fixed black.white stake
be careful when using it as a guide.
Beginning and end of
Town or other site Distance lock cut
St Symphorien 0 km
St Symphorien 0.415
St Symphorien 0.63
Abergement 5.77
Future canal path
It’s easy to judge which travelers have
not done any of this suggested pre-plan- Future lock
ning; they’re the ones at the lock wonder-
ing where they can get their water tank
Roadway
refilled, or complaining that they can’t
stop to sightsee because they only have Railway line and station
one day left of their rental period and have
to hurry back to the base. Those who
Church
come prepared will have a much more
relaxing and enjoyable cruise. Street

Page 6 www.eurocanals.com July-August 2001

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Vessel Registration & VAT in the EU Tom Sommers September 2002

Note: The information provided in this report is based on my personal knowledge and research and should not
be construed as advice or recommendations to the reader. Almost every sentence could begin "It is my
understanding that..."; these rules are complex and my understanding may be in error. The purpose of this brief
report is to describe some of the choices that must be made and to provide a few resources to assist in making
decisions. Feedback from readers with comments or added resources are welcome. The Links shown in this
report are all in English; French, Dutch and German documents also exist, but the general rules are the same.

Several EuroCanals members are currently preparing for extended cruising in Europe aboard their own vessel,
in one of these categories:
A) Purchase of a used vessel in an EU (European Union) member country. 1
B) Construction of a new vessel in an EU member country.
C) Importing a vessel that they already own into an EU member country.
During these preparations, many questions arise and decisions must be made; two of the most important are:
1) In which country should the vessel be registered? 2) Is VAT due, or can it be legally avoided?

Registration
Selection of the country of registration for the vessel usually depends on the place of residence of the owner, but
this can vary with the situation. A few examples of EuroCanals members:
... one who is currently having a vessel built in England is an American citizen but his wife was born in Britain
and has a UK passport; they intend to register the vessel using the British Small Ships Registry; VAT will be
at 0% (for vessels over 15 meters.)
... an American citizen bought a used barge in The Netherlands using a local broker, no VAT was due; the broker
offered his office address as a place of residence, allowing Dutch registration of the vessel.
... another is shipping a vessel from the US to the EU (Rotterdam entry), with US registration; it will remain up
to 18 months under the Temporary Importation rules (see below.)
... another is having a vessel built in The Netherlands, will use US registration and the "Sailaway Boat Scheme"
(see below); VAT will not be due if the boat leaves the EU within 6 months.

VAT (Value Added Tax) (In France, TVA; in Netherlands, BTW)

This widespread tax is applied only when a vessel is first built or new equipment is added; it varies depending
on the regulations of each EU member country but can be as high as 20%. It is not like a Sales Tax, common in
America, that applies each time a boat is resold. So no tax will be due when purchasing a used vessel if the tax
on that vessel has already been paid (or grandfathered, in the case of older vessels.) BUT see the next paragraph.
And taxes may be applied if the vessel leaves the EU and later returns.

1 European Union member countries as of September 2002: Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France including Monaco, Germany,
Greece, Republic of Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, The Netherlands, Portugal including the Azores and Madeira, Spain and the
Balearic Islands, Sweden and the United Kingdom including the Isle of Man
New Members as of May 2004: Cyprus, Czech Republic, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia
Go to: europa.eu.int/abc/index_en.htm
 Can
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VAT Documents
The owner of a vessel may be confronted by authorities at any time and asked to prove the
VAT status of the vessel. (This has usually happened when a vessel is moored for a lengthy period at a specific
location, arousing the interest of authorities or perhaps unhappy neighbors. It is not a regular procedure at border
crossings.) Before beginning to cruise, the owner should gather the appropriate invoices and documents, assure
hat they clearly show the VAT taxes paid or proof that none were due, and keep copies of these documents
onboard. All invoices should show the tax paid as a separate item that can be identified as VAT. This
documentation will also be necessary if you sell the vessel within the EU.

Temporary Importation
Non-EU registered vessels may be used on EU waterways under the Temporary Importation rules for up to 18
months without paying VAT or registering the vessel in the EU. (The period was previously 6 months, this was
extended to 18 months effective 1 July 2001.) There is a procedure to extend the permit up to 24 months if the
vessel is bonded during a period of non-use. The vessel must be re-exported to discharge the permit. If the vessel
is sold in the EU during the 18-month period or remains in the EU under the original ownership after 18 months,
VAT must be paid. An important note is that there is no rule regarding a "minimum period" during which the
goods must remain outside of the customs territory of the Community. That means - if a boat was re-exported
and subsequently placed again under the arrangements for temporary importation, a new period for discharge
(18 months) starts.

Sailaway Boat Scheme

This is an official procedure that allows the purchase of a boat without paying VAT if the boat is removed from
the EU within 6 months (non-EU residents) or 2 months (EU residents.) If the vessel is later brought back into
the EU, VAT must be paid. Note that the title is "Sailaway"; "under its own power" is required.

Importation of a vessel from outside the EU by an EU resident

VAT will be due, regardless of the previous history of the vessel, on the first day of entry into an EU country,
unless you have lived outside the EU for more than 12 months and owned the vessel for more than 6 months
(other complex rules may also apply.)

Links to Internet Sources:

EU Temporary Importation rules www.eurunion.org/legislat/Art553to562.pdf

British Small Ships Register (for vessels up to 24m and qualifying UK resident)
www.mcga.gov.uk/c4mca/reg_on_small_ships_msf_1312_4.01.pdf

British Customs Information (HM Customs & Excise) www.hmce.gov.uk/forms/catalogue/catalogue.htm

Download the following pdf documents:
Notice 8, Sailing your pleasure craft to and from the United Kingdom
Notice 703/2 (for boat manufacturers) Notice 703/3 (for buyers) Sailaway Boat Scheme
Notice 728, Motor vehicles, boats, aircraft: intra-EC movements by persons not registrable for VAT

US Coast Guard Documentation (for vessels over 5 tons and qualifying US resident)
www.uscg.mil/hq/g-m/vdoc/nvdc.htm
Documentation consultant and application service www.boatdocumentation.com/
 a
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ls
Air Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . The clearance needed for a vessel to pass under bridges.
Beam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The width of the boat.
Bilge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The portion of the boat’s interior below the deck or floorboards.
Boathook . . . . . . . . . . . . A pole with a hook at the end, used for fending off, picking up lines, etc.
Bollard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A low post at a lock or quay for securing mooring lines.
Bow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The forward end of the boat.
Bulkhead . . . . . . . . . . . . A transverse wall inside the boat.
Buoys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Floating markers showing the location of the channel or marking obstructions
and prohibited areas.
Burdened Vessel . . . . . . The vessel which must “give way” to another vessel under the rules of
navigation.
Channel . . . . . . . . . . . . . The navigable portion of a waterway, usually marked by buoys or posts.
Charts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Maps used for navigation on waterways, showing depths, buoys and other
markers, locks and adjacent land areas.
Cleat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hardware to which mooring lines are temporarily attached.
Cockpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . An open space on the boat, lower than the adjoining deck.
Companionway. . . . . . . An entrance from deck to cabin.
Crossing . . . . . . . . . . . . . Situation One in which two vessels meet, requiring the use of navigation rules.
Current . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The flow of water within a waterway.
Davit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A crane or device that swings out over the side of the boat to lift objects, such as
a dinghy, onto the boat.
Dinghy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A small boat used to travel away from the vessel.
Dock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A place where vessels can be tied-up.
Double-ender . . . . . . . . A vessel with a pointed stern, such that the bow and stern are similar.
Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The minimum depth required by a vessel to navigate a waterway.
Fenders . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inflated or padded rubber/plastic tubes used to separate a boat from a lock wall
or dock.
Gunwale. . . . . . . . . . . . . The upper edge of the side of a vessel.
Harbormaster . . . . . . . . The person in authority over docking and anchoring.
Helm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The steering wheel or tiller that aims the vessel.
Holding Tank . . . . . . . . . A storage tank for sewage and wastewater.
Inclined Plane Lock . . . A type of lock that raises or lowers an enclosed chamber of water containing
vessels from one level to another (see Lock.)
Jetty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A man-made structure of rocks or masonry that shelters a harbor.
Knot (speed) . . . . . . . . . Measured in nautical miles per hour, expressed as “knots”, not “knots per hour”.
LOA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The overall length of a vessel’s hull.
Lock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . An enclosed chamber in or alongside a canal with gates at each end, for raising
or lowering vessels from one level to another by admitting or releasing water.
Allows the canal to bypass a dam, waterfall or rapids area.
 a
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Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A docking area for vessels, usually with boat and personal services.
Mooring . . . . . . . . . . . . . A buoy attached to a permanent anchor, to which a vessel may be tied-up; a
place where vessels can be anchored; the act of tying-up a vessel.
Nautical Mile . . . . . . . . . A Nautical Mile is 6,076 feet (1.15 statute (land) miles.) Equal to the length of
one minute of latitude at the equator.
Pier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A wood or masonry structure that extends into the water, used as a landing
place for vessels.
Pile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A vertical pole, driven into the bottom of a waterway, used to support a pier or
dock, or as a mooring post. (Piling: several piles installed together.)
Port. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The left side of a vessel; a shore area with facilities to dock and service vessels.
Privileged Vessel. . . . . . The vessel having the right of way when two vessels meet.
Propeller . . . . . . . . . . . . The 2, 3, or 4-bladed rotating device that drives a motorboat through the water.
Pulpit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The railing structure at the bow of a vessel.
Quay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A masonry wall alongside a waterway to which vessels can be tied-up.
Rafting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The mooring of one vessel alongside another. Rail The protective structure on a
deck, to prevent persons from falling overboard.
Reach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The section of water between two locks.
Rode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The anchor line, which can be rope, chain or wire cable.
Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Usually called “line” aboard ship.
Scope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The ratio of the length of the anchor rode in use to the vertical depth from the
bow. Generally 3:1 to 7:1 (or more in storm conditions.)
Screw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Another term for propeller.
Stem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The forward member of the hull; the vertical or slanted portion of the bow. The
root of “From stem to stern.”
Stern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The rear end of the boat
Surveyor . . . . . . . . . . . . An independent professional who inspects and reports on the condition of boats
for purchase and/or insurance purposes.
Tiller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The handle attached to the rudder, used to aim the vessel.
Transom . . . . . . . . . . . . . The transverse portion of the stern.
Wake. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . The disturbance in the surface of the water caused by a vessel’s passage.
Warps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (UK) - Lines (ropes) used to control a boat while in a lock Wash Disturbed
water surface left behind by a moving vessel.
Waterline . . . . . . . . . . . . The line along the vessel’s hull at the surface of the water.
Weir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A dam at which water flows over the top of the structure.
Winch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A device mounted on deck that pulls in a line.
Windlass . . . . . . . . . . . . A winch with a rotating drum, used to raise the anchor.
Yard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . A place where boats are built and/or repaired.
EuroCanals Glossary: French terms & phrases

FRENCH ENGLISH DEFINITION

accoster come alongside approach a quay or other mooring place
alternat alternating alternating one-way traffic
amarre rope or warp rope for tying-up (mooring) the boat
amarrez make fast tie-up (moor) the boat
amont upstream toward the source of a river or canal
appontement mooring place to tie-up a boat
arrière stern the rear end of the boat
aval downstream the direction in which the canal or river is flowing
avant bow the front end of the boat
aviron oar rowing, usually refers to recreational rowing
bâbord port side the left-hand side of a boat
bac small ferry small ferry boats which cross a river
bajoyer sidewall of lock “bajoyer incliné” = inclined (sloping) lock walls
balisage channel markers a row of posts or floats which mark a channel
barrage dam or weir a structure that blocks part of a waterway
basse mer (BM) low tide
bassin basin marina or area for boats to moor
bassinée filling or emptying a lock chamber when locking through
(un) bateau a boat a boat, barge or ship; a small rowing or sailing boat is a barque
batellerie inland waterway commercial transport trade
bief pound stretch of water between locks
bief de partage summit level the dividing point between watersheds
bollard bollard mooring post
bouée buoy
cale sèche drydock basin that can be drained for access to hull, propeller or rudder
chantier workshop boatyard, repair shop, area of construction work
chemin de halage towpath roadway alongside a canal, used in the past by horse teams
chômage closing period of closure of a waterway for maintenance
cloison bulkhead interior wall of a boat
convoi convoy an assemblage of boats, to pass through locks together
coursive gangway wooden or metal ramp from the boat to shore
croisière cruiser usually refers to tour or rental boat operators
crue flood rise in level of water
défense fender a removable bumper made of rope, canvas or rubber
descendre to lock downhill
donnez du mou slacken let out ropes that moor the boat
duc d’Albe mooring post posts in the water, placed for mooring of boats
eau potable drinking water
echelle ladder refers to an actual ladder or a ladder of several locks in a row
écluse lock an enclosed chamber of water for lowering or raising boats
(l’) éclusier lock keeper person that operates the gates and valves of the lock
étrave stem, bow front end of a boat
fausse bassinée filling or emptying a lock chamber without any boats
feux d’accès traffic lights red/green lights for locks and tunnels
fluvial inland waterway a waterway based on fleuves (rivers) rather than mer (sea)
EuroCanals Glossary: French terms & phrases

gare de l’eau marina a docking area for vessels with boat and personal services
gilet de sauvetage lifejacket
grue crane facility to lift vessels from the water
hai eddies eddies resulting from the impact of water against obstacles
halte nautique stopping place authorized mooring, usually with no facilities
haut fond shallow water literally “high bottom”
hublot porthole small window on a boat
largeur width, beam
larguez cast off untie ropes that moor the boat
longeur length
monter to lock uphill
péniche barge a commercial boat for hauling freight
PHEN highest navigable the minimum clearance under bridges is sometimes stated at
plus hautes eaux water level PHEN, especially on rivers prone to flooding
navigable
plaisancier pleasure boater a person using a boat for pleasure purposes
pleine mer (PM) high tide
point kilometer point distance marker along the canal, sometimes marked by a sign on
kilométrique (PK) the bank, otherwise shown on charts
pont bridge
pont canal aqueduct a bridge to carry the canal over a river or road
pont mobile movable bridge
port mooring place a marina or other are designated for mooring of boats
port de plaisance marina, port pleasure-boat moorings, rather than a commercial barge harbor
porte gate a metal or wooden door to enclose a lock or stop gate
poupe stern back end of a boat
proue stem front end of a boat
quai d’attente waiting quay stone or concrete wall to which vessels can moor
repoussez to fend off push the boat away from a wall or a boat, usually with a pole
rive droite right bank the bank on the right facing downstream
rive gauche left bank the bank on the left facing downstream
rochers rocks
sas lock chamber stretch of water within lock gates
sens du courant direction direction of current
sens de navigation direction of traffic
souterrain tunnel
stationner parking “ne pas stationner…” No Parking…
taquet cleat a wood or metal fixture to which ropes are secured
tendez tighten take in ropes that moor the boat
tirant d’air (ta) air draft the clearance needed for a boat to pass under bridges
tirant d’eau (te) draft the minimum depth needed for a boat to navigate a waterway
tribord starboard side the right-hand side of the boat
vedette ferry, cruiser ferry across a river or canal; or a private motorcruiser
vitesse autorisée speed limit
EuroCanals Glossary: French terms & phrases

USEFUL BOATING PHRASES IN FRENCH

(Courtesy of FRANCE AFLOAT, created for use in their guide for crews aboard Self-Skippered boats on
the Canal du Nivernais; details at www.franceafloat.com)

Where is the lock keeper? Où se trouve l’eclusier?

At what time does the lock open? A quelle heure l’ecluse sera-t-elle ouverte?

I am going to stop after this lock. Je vais arrêter après cette ecluse.

How long must I wait? Combien de temps dois-je-attendre?

May I moor here? Est-ce qu’on peut amarrer ici?

I wish to stop for the night in the next pound. J’amerais passer la nuit dans le prochain bief.

I shall be starting at 7 o’clock tomorrow. Je partirai demain vers sept heures.

8 huit
9 neuf

Where may I obtain water? Où puis-je trouver de l’eau?

Do you have a hose? Avez-vous un tuyeau pour amener l’eau?

Which side is the towpath? Le chemin de halage se trouve de quel côte?

Pull me forward/astern. Tirez-mois en avant/en arrière.

Where is the nearest telephone? Où se trouve le telephone le plus proche?

What are the charges? Quels sont les frais?

Can I help you? Puis-je vous aider?

 1

SOME COMMON DUTCH BOATING TERMS By Tom Sommers

Although English is widely spoken in The Netherlands, it is not universal. You will often need to translate
phrases on signs, maps and brochures. You won’t find some of these words in a Dutch-English dictionary,
at least not in the one that I bought on my first trip there (and it’s a thick one, not a tourist’s pocket guide.)

So on the next pages you will find a table of Dutch terms as related to buying a vessel in The
Netherlands. Since a large segment of potential buyers is from neighboring Germany, sometimes the
Deutsch word is used, and that has been included in the table. Some words are the same as used in France,
such “occasion” for second-hand, also translated as opportunity or bargain.

It’s fun to try to guess at some words, for instance once you know that brug means bridge, then
you might guess that a vaste brug is a bridge made vaste (fastened) to the land, a fixed bridge. But be
careful, because you can get carried away with words like jacht; although jachthaven is obvious for
marina, a jachthuis is not a yacht house, rather it is a hunting lodge. And fiets doesn’t mean your feet, it
means bicycle, so a fietspad, something you will see often along the canals and rivers, is a bike path. You
can use your feet to walk on it, but listen for bicycle bells.

Another of my favorite terms is sleepbote, you might guess it’s a boat to sleep on, but no, it’s a tug
that pushes another boat into a sleep (dock). And when driving, you will sometimes see a sign that says
“Let Op”. That means pay attention, or take notice, but I always thought it meant Let Up on the gas pedal
for a speed bump or pedestrian crossing, which is exactly what is intended.

The glossary on the next three pages is my own, developed from my observations and research,
but it is not intended to be either complete or scholarly, just a guide that should prove useful.

The grid on the last page has been extended so that you can add other terms as you come across
them.
 2

DUTCH DEUTSCH ENGLISH (USA version)

Aak A type of Dutch barge (many variations)
aanbod offer, list of boats for sale
aankoop purchase, acquisition
achter/achterschip achtern/hinten aft
achtersteven achtersteven stern
afmeer anlegen mooring
aluminium aluminium aluminum
anker anker anchor
ankerplaats ankerplatz anchorage
bakboord backbord port (left) side
batterij batterie battery
benzinemotor benzinmotor gas engine
bereikbaarheid erreichbarkeit how to get there
bereops professional (ship)
Beurtschip A type of working ship, from Friesland
beweegbare brug (BB) bewegliche brucke Bascule bridge, moveable bridge
bijboot, jol beiboot, dingi dinghy
bijzonderheden einzelheiten particulars, details
binnenwateren binnengewasser inland waterways
binnenboordmotor innenbordmotor inboard motor
binnenvaartschip barge, inland waterways ship
boeg bug bow
boegschroef bugschraube bowthruster
boot Boot boat
bouwjaar baujahr, gebouwd year of construction
breedte breite beam
BTW mehrwertsteuer VAT (Value Added Tax)
buitenboordmotor aussenbordmotor outboard motor
brug brucke bridge
Cadastre Ship’s Registry Office
casco bare hull, no interior or superstructure
centrale verwarming zentralheizung central heating
deckshuit barge
dieptemeter echolot depthsounder
doorvaarthoogthe durchfahrtshohe headroom, clearance (above water)
draaibrug drehbrucke swing bridge
fefbrug hubbrucke lift bridge
getuigschrift befahnigungszeugnis certificate of competence
diepgang tiefgang draft
dieselmotor dieselmotor diesel motor
dieselolie, gasoil dieselol diesel fuel
douche dusche shower
drinkwater trinkwasser drinking water
gesloten geschlossen closed
haven hafen harbor
havenmeester hafenmeister harbormaster
helmstok ruderpinne tiller
houtbouw holzbauweise wood construction
 3

jacht yacht, jacht yacht

jachtbemiddeling boat broker
jachtbouwbedrijf bootsbauer boat builder
jachthaven yachthafen, jachthafen marina
jachtmakelaar boat broker
jachtmakelaardij boat brokerage
kaarten karten charts
kade kai pier
kanaal kanal canal
kantoor buro, ...amt office
kiel kiel keel
klimatiseren klima-anlage air conditioned
koelkast kuhlschrank refrigerator
ladder leiter ladder
lengte lange length
ligging lage, liegeplatz location
lichten lichten lights
logboek schiffstagebuch logbook
Luxemotor A type of working ship with aft cabin
marifoon UKW-schiffsfunk VHF radio
motoranlage motor details
motorjacht motorjacht motoryacht
motorzeiljacht motorsegler motorsailer
nautofoon hautofoon horn
occasion gebraucht second-hand, opportunity
onder voorbehoud under contract (to sell)
oost ost east
open geoffnet open
paardekracht (pk) pferdestarken (ps) horsepower
platbodem plattbodenschiffe flat-bottom boat
polyester/GRP glasfaserverstarkter/GFK fiberglass
prijslist preisliste price list
registratiehaven heimathafen home port
reparatie reparatur repairs
roer ruder rudder
romp rumpf hull
rondbodem rundbodenschiffe round-bottom boat
rondvaartboten rundfahrtschiffe (round-trip) tour boats
ruimteboot hausboot houseboat
scheepsnaam schiffsname, bootname boat name
scheepspapieren schiffspapiere ship’s papers
sleepboot schleppen tug
sluis schleuse lock (canal)
smeer schmiere grease
snelheid schnelligkeit speed
spoorbrug eisenbahnbrucke railway bridge
staal stahl steel
stuurboord steuerbord starboard (right) side
2e stuurstand 2. steuerstand 2nd steering position (on exterior deck)
tankstation tankstellen fuel station
 4

te koop for sale (usually for sale by owner)

te huur for hire, for rent
Tjalk A type of Dutch barge, clog shape
uit het water halen an land holen haul out
vaarbewijs fuhrerschein operator’s license
vaarwater fhrwasser channel
vaste brug fest Brucke fixed bridge
veer fahre ferry
verboden verboten forbidden
verhuur vermieten for hire, for rent
verkocht sold
verkoop verkauf for sale
verwarming heizung heating
verzekering versicherung insurance
vulwatertank ruckhaltetank holding tank (wastewater)
walstroom stromversorgung von land shore power
walstroomaansluiting landanschluss shore connection
Werven Werften boatyard
west west west
WC (toilet) pumpklosett toilet
winterberging winterlager winter storage
woonark houseboat
woonschip houseboat
xhroef propeller propeller
zijkanalen seitenkanale branch canals
zuid suden south
Links to related websites:

Books
Maps, Charts, Guidebooks

Barge Training Courses

Hotel Barge & River Cruises

Self-Skippered Rental Boat Operators

Associations and Waterways Authorities

Personal Cruising Narratives

Boat Brokers
Boat Shows
Books
An updated list of recommended books is maintained on the EuroCanals website.
Go to: Tom’s Booklist
Maps, Charts, Guidebooks

navicarte Inland waterway charts and guides for France & Belgium

librarie fluviale Inland waterway charts and guides for France & Belgium

Inland waterway charts and guides for France, Belgium,

Imray
Germany, Netherlands & United Kingdom
Inland waterway charts and guides for France, Belgium,
HanseNautic Germany, Netherlands, United Kingdom, Poland, Sweden,
Hungary

Editions Du Breil Inland waterway charts and guides for France

Inland Waterways Association Inland waterway charts and guides for England
Barge Training Courses
Barge Skipper Training aboard Roger Van Dyken’s “Vertrouwen”
Week-long skipper training cruises that prepare skippers for the French and
Dutch barge handling tests. www.bargingineurope.com/trainingcruises.htm

T&D Murrell’s Boating for Enthusiasts

Tam and Di Murrell offer several days aboard their Dutch barge “Friesland”
with hands-on training and an introduction to the French waterways that can
be followed by the tests for the International Certificate of Competence and
the “PP” certificate, required for skippers of barges above 24 meters and up
to 39 meters. Email: tamanddi@bargehandling.com
Hotel Barge & River Cruises
Agencies and Multi-barge Companies with barges in countries of:

Abercrombie & Kent France, England, Scotland, Holland, Belgium, Germany

Barge Company France, England, Scotland, Holland, Belgium, Ireland
Elegant Cruises & Tours France, Holland, Belgium
French Country Waterways France
Midi Cruises France
H2O France, England, Scotland, Holland, Belgium, Germany
The Barge Lady France, England, Scotland, Holland, Belgium, Ireland

Individual Hotel Barge Sites:

La Chouette France
Maria France
Luciole France
La Reine Pedauque France
Duke & Duchess England
Dudley Thomas England
Fingal of Caledonia Scotland
Self-Skippered Rental Boat Operators
Connoisseur Belgium, England, France, Germany, Holland, Ireland, Italy, Scotland
Crown Blue Line Belgium, England, France, Germany, Holland, Ireland, Italy, Scotland
France Afloat France
H2O Belgium, England, France, Germany, Holland, Ireland, Italy, Scotland
locaboat plaisance France, Germany, Holland, Ireland, Italy
Nicols France, Germany, Portugal
Hatenboer Holland
Motor-Yacht-Charter Friesland, Netherlands
De Schiffart Friesland, Netherlands
De Brekken Friesland, Netherlands
Caley Cruisers Scotland
Alvechurch England
Blake’s Holiday Boating England
Black Prince Holidays England
Viking Afloat England
Kuhnle Tours Germany
Associations and Waterways Authorities
A UK-based association for all those interested in ex-commercial
DBA - The Barge Association cargo barges and any type of broad-beam inland waterways
craft.
The national volunteer organization which supports the
Inland Waterways Association
restoration and retention of Britain’s waterways. They offer a
(UK)
comprehensive mail order service for books and charts.

Inland Waterways Association The national volunteer organization devoted to the waterways of
(Ireland) Ireland.

The French national waterways authority, responsible for

VNF
direction and maintenance of most (but not all) of the canals and
Voies Navigable de France
rivers of France.

Central Commission for

The source for documents regarding traveling on the Rhine.
Navigation on the Rhine

IWI brings together people and organizations who support the

Inland Waterways International conservation, use, development and proper management of
inland waterways worldwide.

Les Voies Hydrauliques

Waterways authority for the province of Wallonie.
Wallonie, Belgium
Personal Cruising Narratives
Family Cruise on the Canal du Nivernais http://the-hamiltons.tripod.com/France1/
EuroCanals subscriber Brian Hamilton’s website begins: “Our family rented, piloted, and slept on a
13 meter canal boat for a week in Burgundy. We traveled 90 kilometers up the Canal du Nivernais,
through about 50 locks, 6 drawbridges, and some of the most beautiful countryside and villages we
have ever seen. We thought that this would be a vacation that we would remember forever, and we
were right!
These pages try to capture at least part what we saw, did, and felt. You will find this site a
combination of a diary, guide, photo album, and general overview of canal boat vacations. To our
friends we are trying to share what our family experienced. To others we hope that this will give you
an idea of what you could expect from a similar vacation.”
And later... We just got back from a week on the Canal du Midi with our kids. We rented from
Connoisseur in Narbonne and did a round trip to Trebes and back. I did do a time-lapse of uplocking
and put it on YouTube. Take a look at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-m8vBKfKgA

Lady Jane in France http://www.ladyjane.ca/

EuroCanals subscribers provide a full recounting of their adventure
in buying a boat in France, including the financial details:
“Michael and Memory Walsh and poodle Chianti of Vancouver,
Canada welcome you to our website where you will likely find
more than you want to know about our boat, Lady Jane. She is a
steel kruiser, built in the Netherlands in the early 70's as a pleasure
yacht, and has spent most of her life giving pleasure to her owners
as they wandered the rivers and canals of western Europe and
explored the Mediterranean coast from Spain to Italy.”
Boat Brokers
Bourgogne Marine, St Symphorien-sur-Saone France
H2O, St Jean de Losne France
Luxemotor Club, St Jean de Losne France
Fluvial Migennes, Migennes (Burgundy) France
Koejac Yachting, Strasbourg France
Midi Broker France
Yacht Select Holland
Sander Doeve Holland
De Haan & Broese Friesland, Netherlands
Scheepsmakelaardij Enkhuizen Holland
DE ELBURGER SCHEEPSBEMIDDELING BV Holland
De Valk Holland
Boten Te Koop Holland
Fluvialnet France
Bateaux du Midi France
Fikkers Holland & Friesland, Netherlands
Boat Shows

Located in northwestern Germany, near the Netherlands

Boot Dusseldorf border, this is the largest indoor boat show in the world.
Last week in January.

Located in Leeuwarden, Friesland, Netherlands. Many of the

Boot Holland
Dutch boatbuilders will show there. Mid-February.

The Dutch boating industry association show. Though oriented

more toward open-water boating, it is a good show to find a
HISWA, Amsterdam
full range of equipment (electronics, heaters, generators,
stoves & ovens,etc.) Mid-March.