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Written by MG
INTRODUCTION
Mixing can be so fun, yeah right, right? Mixing and fun don't belong
in the same sentence for some. So let this book guide you to get that
sorted. Im explaining it in my own words as a hip hop
producer/engineer and beatmaker to other hip hop producers and
engineers. This guide will break down the important sides of the mix
and how you can quickly adopt a mixing workflow that will make you
a better mixer and a quicker mixer working smarter to keep making
beats rather than mixing them. There isn't a one size fits all for all
mixing techniques so it's time to break some down so you can really
begin to learn exactly what it is you're doing. Mixing isn't a race. Take
your time and give your ears plenty of rest. Everything will fall in
place after implementing some good practices. This Ebook is designed
to pave that for you and place you on the road which seemed foggier
before.
1
EQ
EQ is one of the most integral components of a good mix . Many
sounds and sound sources we use in production have unnecessary
frequencies within them which create overlaps, phase issues and a
host of other problems that if not correct, will ultimately cause issues
further in the mix when applying other effects and processing. The
foundation of most good mixing is EQ. I would always advise
someone to start with a reductive approach to their EQ , just cutting
out frequencies that are if no relevance or importance to a sound .
For example, a piano will have present frequencies over wide range a
cutting out overly apparent bass and high end with simple low cut
and hi cuts will balance out the mix to start with. I would stress that
each of the mixer channels start with an Eq, even if it only has a very
simple reduction occurring , so long as we priorities cleaning up the
mix first , the rest of the process will feel a lot easier. Mixing with Eq
is particular to each sound and there isn’t really a recipe so to speak
that works perfectly. It isn’t a one size fits all process but there are a
few general pointers that will really help to improve the tidiness if a
mix.
Reductive EQ
In any Eq that has the ability to isolate the frequencies we affect, we
can carve out unwanted mud or piercing top end. Take pro q2 for
example - by pressing the headphone icon on a frequency band it
allows us to listen to the target frequency we’re cutting. It usually is a
low boomy sound in the bottom or a hissy incoherent noise in the top
end. I would suggest you don’t get too used to boost and sweep
methods because they can really annoy the ear , highlight a specific
frequency that is annoying by itself at a high volume but is sometimes
an actual characteristic of an instrument. Reductive Eq should be
simple
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Most of the time if the sounds we are using are initially produced
well. You shouldn’t need to dip 500hZ on the snare drastically or take
out too much high end with tight bell shaped Eq unless the noise is
obviously harsh and annoying . listening to an isolated channel
without the rest of the mix to actually provide a reference point is
equally detrimental at times . Spending 30 mins on a snare by itself
then unsoloing it to find it’s gone missing and lacks punch etc isn't
exactly a great thing for your morale!
Mid/Side EQ
Eq on the face of it, as we mostly know it, loads up and you get a few
things to play around with, moving the bands about, the shape of
them etc. but one powerful tool often overlooked is splitting your eq
channel between mid and side. Unlike the conventional eq curves we
mainly use, mid and side EQ allows us to effectively look at our
speaker and divide frequencies between the areas we prefer. For
example, removing the side of a bass or low element equates to you
narrowing its stereo field and bypasses you from including bass end
in stereo end of your mix.in the high end, it is useful to roll of some
frequencies at times front the mid and side channels just you you get
more high end into the tweeter side of your speaker, which is
responsible for producing most of the high end. Here is an example to
set your mind at ease when reading this for the first time
Look at the mode section of the stock ableton 10 eq, M/S is what you
need to find on your eq
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Here is a screenshot of me taking out some low and his from a chord
leads of the mid channel
And one of me taking out the bass from the side and boosting a touch
of high end.
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Sometimes if you can't find a way to make that top end sparkle and
just keep adding more and more eq curves and volume to a top end
sound without the desired effect, try this! This will really help you cut
back on wasted frequency spectrum if you’re finding it hard to
position things in the mix in general.
Mid and side is so good in mastering because it can really help you to
select exactly what portion of the speakers you're affecting. In the
master section , i'll go through my mastering chain i use and how you
can adopt those methods for yourself
Great third party eqs to add to your arsenal, amazing for reductive eq
and generally too
Fabfilter PRO Q2 - literally the only one i use for reductive stuff
Fabfilter PRO Q3 -upgrade of 2 that i haven't found too much
love for, 2 just seems like the one for me but there is a handy
brick wall eq for really hard cuts if a sound is really bothering
you
Your Stock DAW eq - you can get by with this. You actually
don't need anything else most of the time. This thing will low cut
and hi cut like everything else. Try not to use this to add
anything though , like boosting with one of these often makes
the sound a little less satisfying.
Sonible Smart EQ2 - if you're starting out this one here can help
to teach you different eq curves. Its algorithm based and works
via an A.I to get the most out of a sound
Waves REQ 2-6 - T his series of eqs are so simple and classically
designed and work great on vocals. They are a bit trickier
because they don't display the pre and post analyzer but sound
great. So anyone intermediate/experienced with access to this
start using asap
5
Waves F6 - F6 is particularly unique because it has an inbuilt
compressor into it. Which makes it powerful for squeezing out
the sections of the sound you need to have more prominence. I
use this on the kick top end a lot to give a greater impact
anywhere in between 2-5kHz
Additive EQ
Signal chain wise itd go after compression and tidying up the sound
but before reverb or any effects amazing eqs for this are:
Waves PuigTec EQP1A and MEQ5
Any Waves API unit
SSL G Channel, SSL EQ, SSL Channel
Additive eq is about the character. Most of these are modelled on
vintage equipment to bring back that gritty saturation or presence of
an original hardware unit.
I use additive eq separate to reductive eq because i mostly Compress
directly after reductive eq, meaning when I add something to it wth
the listed analog units, it can help accentuate the clean and
compressed signal, rather than the muddy un treated signal. what I'll
do is I'll load up one of my favourite EQs which I've listed to basically
amplify the sound further or bring out a certain characteristic of it
that I like. I use the waves API units most of the time for mostly each
element in the mix because it just has a really nice sound. The Pultec
EQs which are the PuigTec EQs in Waves are really powerful because
they have what's called the ability to make a resonant band. A
resonant band is where you increase the volume of a frequency then
decrease it simultaneously bringing about a presence and width to an
element, which can be really useful for the bass. Using the PuigTec
EQP1A on an 808 boosting 60hz by one on the boost section and
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attenuating 1 in the attenuation section it will actually create this
resonant layer in between the boost and cut and achieves this thick
sounds that a lot of us try to achieve. Creating a big bass with just a
couple of steps
Equally proficient on hi end information. You can actually use it to
affect spectrums with really wide band EQ bringing out a total
character of the high end information on a lead or snare without
relying on an analyser like you see on a stock EQ with the graph
showing you all the frequencies. You can really train your ears to
‘hear’ using this. In this way your ears become more trained to
calculating what you are hearing and what you need to add and take
from am mix instead of relying on your eyes seeing the eq
graph/analyser change. It adds a level of excitement to your eqing and
can bring about some really great results going in blind like that.
Separating the additive EQ section like this really helps your
workflow because you can go back to the compressor and reductive
eq separately without having to affect something in the chain by
changing it . What I Mean is, when you boost after compression, you
bring in new elements into the sound with your new clean signal. You
won't lose all these boost but would have if you included all your
EQing in one plug in.
7
Compression
With modern day kits we use in our production etc, a lot of the
sounds are either heavily compressed already or have limiting
applied to them to finalise the sound. For us that basically means that
there isn't too much of a dynamic presence in the sound to start with.
Meaning that if we continue to add more compression, we lose the
character and body of the sound and the natural texture , and we end
up having a block of sound that overall isnt too good sounding.
Now compression can be useful and is a very powerful tool that can
help elements in a mix stand out, I mainly use it on leads and vocals
that have a lower volume and need some oomph. Compressors
basically bridge the gap between the loudest point of a sound and the
quietest. Without any auto gain or make up gain on a compressor, the
sound becomes a lot lot quieter. Take for example a soft piano sound
that intensifies. Let's say the quiet bit of the piano is -12dB and the
loudest point is -3db, what compression will do is bring down the -3dB
level closer to the -12dB level based on what we out into the
compressor. The ratio is really important in maintaining a dynamic
sound. Briefly, a 1:2 dB ratio means for every 1dB you put into the
compressor, you take of -2dB. So if we have a kick with a compression
ratio of 1:2 then we actually lose 2 decibels per 1 we put into the
compressor. This would suck if we couldn't amplify the signal again.
But here is the question. If the kick is sounding good, why compress it
further. It'll just reduce the energy it had. The threshold is the next
important area of the compressor which determines when the
compressor acts. For example your compression threshold is 0 and
your sound doesn't get louder than -5db, you aren't gonna reduce
practically anything. Some compressors, especially vintage model
ones have some character boost when you just put them on the sound
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without touching anything but a bog standard DAW compressor will
do mainly nothing to the sound until you take down the threshold so
the compressor can actually have a sound to act on, reducing the
threshold here therefore will get the compressor to start acting. Now
let's say your -5db sound is playing, you put your compression
threshold down to -9db, it'll be active and reducing enough gain to
even out the sound. Let's pick up the example of our piano again, let's
say we take our compressor and put it on the piano and take the
threshold down so it takes of -6db of gain reduction, you'll see this
occur in the meter section of the compressor. Now the loudest and
softest point will have a smaller gap between their dynamic range.
Retaining this in a modern mix is really important but evening out
the sound is equally beneficial, you'll now never lose the piano in the
overall beat.
Here is an example using fabfilter pro c-2. I'll show you a lead here
which has a quiet and loud point and how we can even it out so it
overall has a lower dynamic range but better presence.
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Here is the sound. As you can see, the start is quiet and it gets louder,
considerably, about 12db. Now let's grab a compressor and i'll show
you how it acts.
You can see roughly the same shape in the compressor as you can in
the waveform , basically no reduction is happening, nothing much
going on. But with the metre over the threshold dial, you can see the
peak of the sound and how much threshold to roughly apply here it is
at the quietest point.
10
So if we set our threshold to around 10 o'clock , we can even out this
sound quite nicely
11
You can see from the diagram that the new waveform is a lot closer
together, and in the background , in dark grey you can see the
original , so this signal is now compressed and quite close together,
losing the difference between the loudest an qualitest is spot. Now the
attack time here is quite quick. The attack time in a compressor
basically tells it how fast to act, so you more or less instantly duck the
sound as soon as the compressor hears it. If you set this higher, the
compressor will take longer to act, for leads and synths this can be
quite nice because it'll allow the instrument to breath and you won't
choke out all the dynamics, plus when gain is applied and you're not
just reducing it with compression, you'll see why it's important, it'll
appear more natural and steady rather than abruptly killing the
quality of the sound
Here i moved the attack longer. The release longer and added
lookahead. OMG what are all of these aadhgpojlketlkjbd!
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Attack and release settings are very subjective and are really a
preference of the engineer. It depends how harsh you want the
compression to be. Here are the basics of all the parametres.
Threshold we've been through, ratio we have covered.
Attack how long it takes for the compressor to start compression,
quick attack settings are more useful for drums to lock in the punch,
sowere ones retain the dynamic information so are great for leads
and synths etc.
Release When the compressor turns off, how long it takes for it to
stop compressing. If it's a pluck sound you'll want it to be shorter, just
so it isn't holding any empty rumbly sounds or hissssss .For pads and
pianos and evolving sounds, you might want to slightly longer, to
enhance a portion of the tail of the sound to bring it out more if it has
a unique character
Lookahead will let you compressor check what it's compressing
before the signal hit, it'll check what and when to compress, way
more taxing on the cpu but it'll help to really retain character of
drums etc.
How do i know what settings to use. Use your eyes and ears really. If
the sound start sounding stupid or dull and you've done a crazy
compression on it, you can see why, take the threshold and move it
close to 0 so it's not so active; is your ratio on 1:infinity? try aim for 2
or 3 to 1 or in between there for most sounds, you want to retain as
smooth a sound as the original.
Are there any other compressions about?
13
Well multi band compression is a similar beast to compression but it's
mostly more useful for overall sound enhancement, like the complete
mix.
This is pro MB over a complete song. What it aims to do is be a level of
mastering before mastering. Like a pre master. This specific
compressor looks at each individual segments and helps to compress
and meld areas together. If you look at each crossover section it
carries a certain piece of the frequency spectrum, the pink part
corresponding to the bass end, the green mostly to the kick and low
mid area and so forth. Multi-band is a great finalisation technique but
equally but needs to be fairly soft or you destroy the mix.
Side chain is important in compression because it can really help you
kick and 808 to sit together better. Now it isn't the only method of side
chain, like you can side chain anything to anything but it's mostly
common on kick and 808, it's becoming less and less used because you
14
can achieve the same effect with an eq etc but if you want to, it's still a
great way of making room for the kick. The compressor basically
takes the kick and says to the 808, everyone this thing hits, you lose
this amount of dB. Because the kick and 808 have so many similar
frequencies, they mostly clash otherwise. It is a great beginners tactic
on improving the relationship between the two, hell even a great
technique to use in advanced ways as a seasoned engineer. I still use
it , softly, but i do.
I load my kick and 808, eq them etc, level them up etc and then send
the kick in to the sidechain section of the compressor. I use a ratio of
around 1:1.5 - 2 and a threshold of around -7 to -12 depending on how
much kick i want, attack on 0.2 and auto release. Not much more than
that is really necessary, depends how heavy you want the side chain
to be.
Compressors i love are
Fabfilter Pro-C2
And that's it... I use the stock one and C2. it has everything I need
from a cleaning up the mix standpoint.
Additive compression
Now this might be a bit weird but some compressors have a lovely
character and are hard to overlook. I rarely use these on the beat side
of things but sometimes slap them on a lead or 2 to make them get
that oomph, but on vocals they are amazing.
JST GR
is the best thing since sliced bread. It's a crazy aggressive gain
reducer, super heavy compressor that hits like no other. It can take
the sound and amplify it like mad, leaving the sound super
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compressed but very even. Using it lightly is sick because it means
you can really get that gritty slap out of it. But again, I use this on
vocals mostly so i'll cover out there but experiment with it equally
rewarding.
660/670 fairchild
The mono and stereo version of an old analog unit i use is the waves
Fairchild 660/670 to give the sound more character. It's a great
compressor for vocals again but if you're looking to finalise one of
your sounds this one is sick.
Any SSL comp, channel rack etc
These things are modelled off of the big desk so speak for themselves.
You aren't losing out too much if you can't get your hands on the plug
ins but they are really intuitive and if you use them, they can really
help your mixes.
Smart Comp
Just like smart eq, it's an a.i. based comp which can help set you up as
the best compression for your individual elements. It Can help teach
you all you need about certain instrument even to carry over to other
compressors when you learn enough to do it manually.
CLA 2a, 3a, 76
These are waves plugins but equivalents exist . they don't do too
much more than your regular compressor and you can achieve a pro
mix without them but these are generally better sounding and analog
modelled which pack a punch for your drums and are really effective
for gain reduction .
Learn the difference between the type of compression you're doing.
It's useful to know about gain reduction and compression. Take a
compressor with a VU meter, if the needle slams down hard and
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doesn't really move, that's gain reduction, if the needle is moving and
wavering about, that's compression.
Gain Staging and Leveling
Levelling and gain staging become way more simple with clear cut
positions in the frequency spectrum for each sound. It opens the
ability to have a well placed and balanced mix , even if done quite
quickly. Here are a few pointers and what to look for.
I love these two components because they can literally make or break
a mix. I went through years of shoddy levelling and gain staging to get
to the position I’m in now which is pretty good. The hell of deciding
how damn loud my snare should be and where i'd put the kick etc. All
in all , in bassey music, we all get high on the driving 808 and
knocking kick but often over egg them. Here is literally the most
simple levelling tutorial you'll ever get in an ebook that you can come
back and refer to however many times you want to and go out and
adapt it to your own workflow.
Without even touching on gain staging, you can get your mix
sounding 50 times better with a little bit of levelling. Here are a few
methods to this in production. Our kick is the life of the beat so we
level everything off that.
Kick: 0dB
Snare: -3dB
Perc: -7/5db ish
808: -6dB
Hats: 11/9dB
Instruments and synths, varies but -14 to -9 dB
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This will get your beat sounding sweet. Slap a limiter on the master
and you've got your working mix in order. You and your people can
enjoy it sounding crisp and bassey. Now to save time you could
literally just take another 6dB off those levels and have your levels
literally sorted. So kick at -6dB, sanre -9dB etc etc. That'll give you the
levels you need before adding your own touches to make it how you
want. The important thing here is that that is a rough guide, if you
think your kick is lacking, find a way to give it some extra punch. EQ
it, saturate it; all of that good stuff and that might get you to where
you need to be,
Now it's all well and good mixing at those levels but let's say you want
that extra professional touch. Most mix engineers will decide to
actually gain stage the music before starting on the levels. So strap in
and lets go.
Set everything to zero/unity . take off all your mixing etc apart from if
maybe you halftimed something for the entire track, leave that on
because that's what we’ll be mixing but, generally take everything off,
and set the mixer meter back to default. Don't press play because
you'll break your eardrums. Take the master level and decrease it
significantly like -12/-19 or whatever so that we don't kill our ears.
Here is my kick from the example.
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Looking at it it's averagely what we see when we see our kicks wave
form. Looks beefy but to get this properly gain staged we need to take
out some volume . This is what the kick peaks out without me
touching it. Literally what the meter reads when i drop it into ableton
it doesn't really take a genius to figure out why this isn't ideal. We are
losing so much headroom it's untrue! It peaks at +4.91 dB. That's over
our production level mix and is superrrr hot. Even if you just turn
down the fader the original sound is already too loud so… get into the
sound source and turn that down until we see that meter at -12dB.
That's right , for every instrument , effect perc etc. get it to -12dB
without the fader being touched . Keep the fader on unity and turn
down the original sampel like so, here i took off 17db. And here's the
new meter.
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-12.1, working with a little more room than minus 12.
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follow the same step for every sound until everything is at -12. This
will give us that head room and we can start to get our mix done turn
your master to +6, just max it out basically and nothing should clip
over the top because its all quiet etc. From here, with -12 as the start
position of the kick, we can take the 808 and level it -6dB approx.
from the kick. Just use the initial mix guide above to get everything
sitting tidy. No sound will be clipping from the get go like our kick
was initially, and everything might sound a bit quiet at first but
adding that extra 6db to the master should help. Once that's all done
your mix is fully levelled and gain staged. Thats it really. This will
double the quality of your masters and don't forget to take your
master level back down to 0.
BUSS and Sends+Returns
Mix is done right? everything sounding good? levelled nicely crisp etc.
Not necessarily done though! In come buss effects and sends and
returns, holy grails of cpu saving and holy grails of mixing in turn
too! Why? Simple, they utilise the same plug in for multiple channels
and her is how!
This will save you bags of time if you try to include this method in
your mix. Instead of loading your reverb on every channel under the
sun taking up resources, and you practically load the same sound into
every channel. Then pop it on a send and the job is done, exactly the
same as buss routing. We've all heard of NY compression or parallel
compression tech quest and if you haven't then crawl out from under
the rock you've been living under because it can be one of the most
useful tools you'll get. Instead of loading up a compressor on each
channel , load a ridiculously heavy compression on a buss and send
bits of signal to it that you want compressed. For example, all your
drums could rout over to a compression buss which could glue them
all together and have them sit nice and tightly together, this one buss
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could have some crisp saturation on there and a very short reverb
where you could send you claps, snares hats etc to get them more full
in a mix .
Here are compression setting i use on 2 different buss channels which
help beef up my stuff. Generally speaking i send the bits of signal that
i feel lack punch into it and they come out monstrous.
A simple h comp like this can get those drums knocking like crazy,
and because you're only blending the compressed signal into the
orignal, they stack on top of each other and make for a really clean
hard hitting piece of percussion. I love this one on the kick because it
can get the pio out of it more and bring that knocking sound into it .
Really and truly you can adapt all of these busses to be whatever you
want them to. For instance, if you have a compressor like this maybe
set to 50% wet and then add a saturator afterwards, it could compress
then saturate whatever signal you run through it. This is quite
powerful because you'd be able to experience the benefit of both
plugins on multiple different channels, which means ultimately that
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although all of your instrument and drums are separated, if they all
fed into this and came out the other end together you'd create a
really nicely blended layer that would help to gel the mix through
together. The way you can do this on ableton on a send and return
like i explained or on a track group. Now I know pro tools has track
grouping as well and i'm sure FL Studio and Logic Pro do too or you
may have to adapt a method of doing it but this is an example which
works slightly differently to send and return which could equally help
your mix out. Say you group all the tracks of the drums together, you
have them all levelled and hitting hard af, you can affect them all a
stage before a send and return merging the sound more to make it
more wholesome and fuller.
This is the example, I threw some drums out to a chopped loop, and
you can see highlighted in light blue the group of drums. On this
group is the solid state logic meter acting as the glue for the drums.
The settings are simple, super slow attack, super fast release , no
threshold and a touch of make up gain. This combines all the drums
together and sounds super rewarding to the ear. It is literally
discernible instantly that it is active. From this stage I can parallel
compress further using the method described earlier if im doing it for
a certain characteristic. The important thing here is not too much
compression!! Just gentle touches here and there will bring out some
life and character.
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Everything described here can equally be applied with different
plugins. let's say you seperate the kick and 808 out to a different
group because you want your claps and hats to get the same reverb
and delay settings. Here's how it would look. The overall group with
the ssl would stay the same and a new group within that group would
be created with just the high end percussion and drums
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As you can see 3 new plugins are affecting just the hi percussion
group and the kick and 808 have gone into their own low group
within the overall drum group. So the initial SSL is still working on
top of all the new processing.
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Signal chain
Once the sound is cleaned, up any post processing things like effects
saturation ete come in to play. The signal chain is very important
here because depending on where you put certain plugins affects the
sound.
For example, saturation before reverb means that the sound is
initially saturated then reverberated which may appear cleaner.
Saturating after the reverb: you're saturating the reverberated signal
meaning there is more chance for it to have phase issues etc or you
may have actually created a more desired sound. The sound is
consequently ;altered and differs from sat>rev vs. rev>sat
Once you have the sound the way you want it it's time to re-level it
against your original sound. For example, if you had your snare
levelled to -9dB and it sat well in the mix at that volume, then now
with all your effects the snare grows to -2db, take of around 6db again
to put it back in the same place as you had it before for it to not cut
too sharply in the mix
This is my processing chain, and how I do it varies at times but this is
how it goes
EQ>SATURATION>COMPRESSION>ADDITIVE EQ>EFFECTS -
HALFTIME, PORTAL, CHORUS, RC20, REVERB+DELAY LAST> FINAL
EQ (USUALLY LOW CUT)
Signal chain is effectively like a jigsaw puzzle which you can put
together in multiple ways and the way you put it together is how
pretty it comes out (ie what plug in follows the other). It can be really
effective to put different effects plugins in different orders and
experiment with the sound that comes out but you'll generally want
to do all your tidying up work, EQ and compression first, and time
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based effects like delay and reverb at the end. It's quite subjective but
at times its better to compress a sound first and then eq it if the sound
of it is extremely low or has really wavering dynamics.
What you won’t want to do is calen up a sound , add reverb and
saturate it, add portal and halftime because effectively you start to
half time the mushy spread out widened reverb layer too, not just the
instrument or drum. It may be helpful to you if you struggle with mud
in the mix to do this.
Anything you do to your instruments think of the clarity and the
purpose of it first. It might not even need any effects and you're just
adding them because you think that's what needs to be done.
Once you have your sound cleaned up, think of it like this.
What kind of sound is this? Bass Element, percussion, main lead,
small recurring melody.
Does it need to be wider or spacier? if yes, reverb and delay along
with chorus are great, stereo width plugins like matthew lane stereo
delta or JST Sidewidener, echoboy, panman, timless2. Panning
really helps with this too and is mostly used on leads and percs.
Does the sound need to be thicker? if yes, compressor, clipper,
saturation, overdrive, oneknob pumper, decapitator
Does the sound needs to be clearer? maybe a volume thing or try a
boost in hi’s or low’s, alternatively scoop out some mid>maybe it's just
some left over mud- best thing is nothing is set in stone so go back and
change it if you don't like it.
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Is the sound clashing with another element in my mix? Grab
another EQ, put it last and take out some bass or eq out some hi’s.
Harmonics
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especially good on drums really bringing out the knock of the drums
and making them very well rounded but punchy. The A setting is very
well balanced and coupled with the light and dark tone switch, it can
really help to shape your sound. If you want a duller sound, go for
dark, and something a bit higher and sharp go for bright to crisp up
that high end. It’ll give that extra Edge and sharpness that it might
lack otherwise. It acts as an alternative for just boosting with eq or
making a sound louder with a fader. With this plug in, or most
saturation in general, you don't really lose the original sound too
much and don't have to mess around with your mix too much more
levels wise.
This can really be effective in Buss routing or group effects. You can
apply saturation to the drums overall or the leads overall and have
them gel together alternatively to compression. The sound will go
through the decapitator and saturate together blending the
harmonics nicely. If you're missing the blend on two seperate
elements, try it, it's saved me hours faffing with EQ and compression.
Effects
Some of the best effects that you can use are effectrix, portal, halftime
gross beat and I'll mention some great chorus, delays and Reverbs.
Halftime and Gross Beat are 2 powerful units which can provide a
variety and a natural ebb and flow in a mix. The way a mix works
really is to have the ability to continually engage the listener . If
elements in the mix are changing and morphing tastefully then
ultimately it makes a beat or track more interesting. It’s purpose is to
guide the listener through the track and adding a variety of darkness
or glitchiness to a certain layer in the beat really achieves that;
modulating the music in a way that enhances elements of the mix and
effectively makes it way more appealing to the ear. Think of mixing
29
as a creative element rather than just cleaning up the sounds. Sure of
course you want to get it all sharp and punchy but sharp and punchy
all the way through becomes really boring after a while.
Try grab a halftime and throw it on hi hats for a bar with the mix at
10%. Mess around with Gross Beat the same way, use the complex
section of the presets and really trip up the main lead.
SugarBytes Effectrix is another staple to add to the arsenal. It is
essentially a multi effects processor that enables you to use certain
effects and trigger them to start or stop with in a period of time in the
beat. Now you can do this with multiple effects to get some real crazy
and unique sounding stuff. Automating when it turns on and off can
really help you to achieve a contrast in your music you haven't
reached before and using this subtly would be insane on your
productions. Think about the arrangement of the beat and ask
yourself, is this instrument doing the same for too long?; is there
something i can do to vary it up slightly?; I even used gross beat on
vocals to chop and screw them like crazy for like a mega effect section
which is a thing I would say experiment with. You may surprise
yourself with the things you find and might make a little signature out
of it!
GrossBeat + Halftime- incredible tools but side note; eq after
pleaseeeee. When you halftime the sound, it gets bassier, look at an eq
graph after you apply a halftime on to it . Take those lows back out,
don't let it crap your kick and 808 up.
Automation
This is one of my most underused techniques really but is so so
powerful. You can mostly automate all parameters in a DAW so to
create further contrast in an instrumental, you can take the mix dial
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on a halftime plug in for example and automate it to go from 0-100%
in a transition section, or automate the drive on an overdrive to
intensify over time. Think of a static effect you love. Lets say its delay.
Imagine the delay feedback increasing or the intensity of the delay
increasing at the end of each bar on a pluck or synth. This would add
a colourful texture to your stereo field and be way more captivating
and creative than just using it standardly. You can even couple this
with buss effects for some crazy results, like have the whole mix drop
into a lofi section or filter it out the top end with an EQ. Just those
little nuances would kick your mix into life.
Here are some of my favourite PlugIns you could start using that you
may have not heard of just yet.
Effectrix
Portal
RC 20
Air Music Technology - effects pack. Sound broad but these are so
wide use and so sick. They have the OVO 40 lofi unit, some neat
chorusses , reverbs , padmakers
JST pixalator, ridiculous bit reducer/ lo-fi maker. Sounds so sick
Reverb
For me there is only one reverb company and that's Valhalla DSP.
These guys will take your mix from good to great. Just using its simple
interface makes it so rewarding to use, and flicking through the
presets and adjusting the mix dial to taste can really spark some creat
creative results. Try short wide reverbs on snares, Thick reverb on
vocals or play around with experimenting with reverb on a bass
element. Sounds crazy i know but with the valhalla plugins you can
take out the bass end so you only affect the top end stuff that can be
reverbed and stereo. Sometimes it provides some eerie sounding stuff
or helps gets some width into areas that would feel otherwise flatter.
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Obviuosly dint throqw a reverb on the basss and think why does this
sound stupid but you can experiment with some stuff just to see how
it sounds. You might find a use for it other than using it as a bass. It
may become more useful as an effect etc etc. Just some things to think
about really to help you spruce up your workflow and get used to
using more creatively . Valhalla make a few different reverbs but:
Vintage Verb
Plate
Room
Are the ones that you’ll find so much love for.
Couple of honorable mentions are
UberMod
Shimmer
Delay
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Mixing the ...
I wanted the mixing the ...Part of the book to be kind of the lowdown
on how Mix the big power players in our beats that people often ask
about.
808
Mixing the 808 is one of the most important things in a hip hop or
production track. You want it to be thick and bassey but not
overpowering as such. How do you achieve that? Initially you’ll want
to prep the sound with some EQ, low cutting anything under 25-30Hz
being a general sweet spot. Not a lot of speakers can actually
reproduce that sound very well and therefore it isn't necessary in the
mix. Plus in bigger speakers this can get really boomy and
overbearing so not really a characteristic of a bass that you weren't.
It’ll sound like it's making your mix more shallow and like it
swallowing all of the available are for everything to breath.
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a standard eq and a little saturation. use one EQ to dip out 60hz by 0.5
of a dB ish and one to raise it by the same and apply a little
saturation.
One of the best 808 tools ive used is RBass from waves. You get this
really simple interface and really clean big bodied intensity from the
bass which enriches its harmonics and blends it into the orignal 8080
signal. It's like a slight compressor, touch of saturation and
expansion. It's an amazing tools to boost out that bass and make it
feel super fat. Once again, it can equally be achieved by saturation
but the fact that this is specifically built with bass in mind gives it that
edge in class for me.
An amazing way to heighten the stereo effect of your 808 whilst
maintaining the bass in mono is to duplicate the channel. High Cut
everything on the main 808 that goes past 350-500 hz (find that sweet
spot for you) and low cut everything on the new duplicate to the same
frequency. On the duplicated channel with the low cut on it, take a
stereoizer plugin like matthew lane delta and crank up the dry wet
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for that element and literally hear it grow. It’ll evenly spread nicely a
little bit wider and in turn create this sound of an overall thicker bass.
Now this doesn't work for all 808s but its amazing for R&B ones and
really good on anything that has a little growl in it . It helps the
harmonics and more melodic areas of the 808 to break through the
mix a little better and will help to make it become more audible on
crappy speakers, in turn enhancing the quality of the bass on big and
good speakers. This effect is significantly more noticeable in
headphones!
I don't tend to compress a lot on an 808 because mostly, it is already
compressed sound when out of the box. The only time I would would
be on more of a pierre/zaytoven type 808 where it has that unique
character at the start of the 808 sound. Now i'll set the attack really
high so that it doesn't affect this area but has an affect on the
remainder of the tail end of the 808 making it fuller and tiger. Keep
the release time relatively short too and the jobs a good`n. You get a
bit more 808 out of it and it feels a good bit more basey and mean.
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Kick
When You're ear identifies a kick, especially in an instrumental it
looks for certain characters within the sound.. Many of us think that
just by boosting bass ends, we’ll achieve what we want from the kick
but often it gets lost in the mix. TRY THIS! Take a slight EQ curve and
boost somewhere around 2.5khz to 5kHz. This will simulate the skin
on a real life kick drum being hit by the beater when a drum player
presses the pedal. The slight tap sound there can really help your kick
jump out in the mix and be more present ever you feel it lacks that
little bit of character but you've boosted crazy amounts of bass
already and the mixing the kick is just driving you insane.
The SoundToys decapitator i mentioned in the saturation section is
amazing on kicks. Any saturation is really done correctly. Just gentle
touches of saturation can amplify the boom and hit of the kick, that
coupled with some tone control so you don't saturate too many low
frequencies and too many high ones really helps us get that extra
volume out of it.
Depending on the kick, may sure you low cut enough room to allow
the 808 to carry thoise sub and low frequencies. Getting a tighter kick
is really eq choices and cutting from around 50 Hz to 70 Hz will help
you get that slappy nature in the kick and it’ll have less overlapping
frequencies with the 808, the less frequencies they share, the better
you’ll hear each individual element. That's why sidechain became
very popular, because it literally let the kick move the 808 out of the
way for a brief amount of time to get it that punch. With some good
EQing and practice, you’ll find needing to rely on sidechain will be
made more obsolete and you’ll be finding ways to use it more
creatively than as a saving grace in your mix. If we can make the
room in the frequency spectrum ourselves, why rely on the computer
to automatically do it, it isn't always as accurate as it seems.
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Ultimately, don’t do too much. Keep it simple and sounding clean.
Snares and Claps
Snares and claps can be stressed a little more with processing. They
can have reverb delay etc. applied on to them with less effect on the
overall phase correlation of the instrumental meaning that the mix
will stay clean and correct even when you manipulate the snare
around. I like to use both hi cut and lo cut in the snare to make room
for the hi hats and stop it from overlapping the bass and hogging the
middle of the mix. Try Mixing in mono to get this right , it’ll stop you
from hearing the stereo and help your ears to discern the frequencies
better. Because the snare is usually placed mono with the kick and
bass, it'll help you find the pocket of sound to put it into .
Saturation can help make the snare a lot more dramatic. It'll crisp up
the top end further and amplify the role of the clap or snare. Once
again you won't rely on a volume fader and can get a little more juice
out of the snare.
I love a short wide reverb on the snare . Valhalla obviously amazing
for it , there is a really smooth preset which’ll just add some width
and polish to the sound without sounding like a huge reverb
smothering the snares sound. It’ll be really short and snappy, just as
you want to keep it.
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I often use transient shapers like izotope neutron on a snare to get a
little less tail and a little more snap into the sound. It can be done
manually by turning down the tail end of the sound
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Hi Hats
hi-hats EQ is really simple, take out a lot of the bass.
I compress them with a higher ratio this time just because I want
more of the tail of the hi hat.
I often use Kush ubk-1 because it has a compressor already built into
a saturator and has the ability to bring up the Punch and the
snappiness of the hi-hats simultaneously. You can use the density dial
to get the sound feel as if it has a little more pressure.
Halftime or Grossbeat with the ½ speed setting and the mix really low
can add and enhance your triplet hi hats and hi hat runs. Keeping the
mix really low will darken them and add a layer underneath that’ll
help bolster the variety hearing new sounds the listener haven't
heard yet. It's Just a little piece of ear candy.
A key to getting hi hats right is panning. I always separate hi hat
channels in to multiple, and pan them slightly differently, the main hi
hats staying close to the centre and any runs or triplets panned a bit
more slightly left or right.
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Panning
Panning can be a fantastic way to create space in the mix and it is
mostly under utilized it can really help ensure each element of the
beat has its own pocket to sit in and helps to disperse the energy
across the instrumental. One thing to note that when you incorporate
panning into a mix, you often will need to relevel certain things
because they will begin to appear audibly louder against their
original volume and position as they no longer coincide with other
frequency shared by other elements, for example, snare and hi hats,
snares and instruments etc. Panning is a versatile tool which can add
the extra clarity and dimension you may lack in your mix today. You
can use some plugins like the Sennheiser Orbit and Boz digital poan
knob as an alternative to using your DAW pan knob.
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The inbuilt pan in the DAW is fine to use but these plug ins are a little
more diverse and more accurate at pocketing the sound properly . For
instance, the Sennheiser Orbit plugin is a 360 panning VST that can
create and further dimension in the mix. You can use in line with
automation to get a lot of movement into the mix and have elements
swap place to create more interest. You can use it on 808 glides when
the 808 is high and playing more of a melodic note, panning each
slight left and slight right to give some direction and highlight the
sound out to the listener.
One main point is to keep the bass in the middle, don't pan out the
kick and bass or snare for that matter to muo much. That's the heart
really of the beat and otherwise you can risk the mix sounding a bit
too hollow. Or empty. Panning i find quite fun to experiment with. I
love adding different directions to percussion sounds and changing
where they appear as the beat progresses. It catches the listener out
in a good way and elevates the feeling of progression, protecting you
from having a beat sounding too samey.
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Vocals
This is a working mix which helps you hear a finalised sound without
touching too much
Whenever I work with an artist I literally just use the JST GR and
Antares Auto-Tune 5 vocals and a couple of reverbs and delays and
stuff like that really gives complete sound. GR gives such a clear tone
that I use it even in my final mixes. It's very
versatile but quite aggressive. Sometimes
using the deluxe version instead with the
dry wet mix dial really helps so you can tone
down the aggression and just get that clarity
out of the plug in.
I have a few different approaches to mixing
vocals. It differs based on the vocal but I
usually start with a Vocal Rider plugin to
even out dynamics without compression.
Basically it's a plug in with a fader that auto
42
levels the performance of the vocals boosting super quiet sections and
taming the louder parts to an overall smaller range in vocals. Because
rap vocals often need to stay in one consistent stream, this tool work
fantastically to even things out and gives you a foundation to build
upon.
EQ is the first most important step in mixing a vocal, removing out
low end that's unnecessary depends on the voice but look out for any
boomy areas in the low end and anything super high up like 18khz
which is not friendly on your ears. Don't do any boosting just yet or
keep it really really slight. The main goal here is to correct some of
the things that bother you in the vocal. The next stage is really
compression. Your first point of evening out any dynamics that jump
over the volume threshold. So the first compressor is to control. Use a
heavier threshold to keep any spikes in check. Follow it with a longer
attack higher release time, shorter threshold compressor. Like the
43
tames the vocas and keeps the sound of them under control for the
whole song.
The next step is really a case of taste. I like the Boz digital EQ on
vocals and the fairchi;le 660/670 but you can use an API/SSL, MAAG
EQ4, or any of the Puig Tec Waves EQs. API also has a compressor
which has real nice vocal
settings. You don't really want to
slam the vocals in this case
because you've tamed the
dynamics before but its just as
an extra character giver. A little
bit extra pop and fullness within
the sound. Directly after this,
you can start to add more
character effects like saturation,
parallel compression, reverbs, delays and all that jazz. Anything to
enhance the vocal sound and that's totally discernible by you. I
usually do all the character processing on channels on Buss/Sends and
Returns
Scheps have a really good
plugin called parallel particles
which is perfect for on
grouped vocals. It has 4
different parameters which
you can use to process the
totality of the vocals for a
rougher mix or use it more
lightly on a final mix. It’s a
really complete tool that’ll
help you understand how to
describe what your vocal need
more of or lack and help you
44
think about certain sounds in a way that's a slight bit more visual.
A lot of the vocal is in the initial recording. You need to make sure
you don't get any clipping within the recording so that you have
enough room for all your effects. It's better for the vocal to come out a
bit quiet and quality rather than super load with a load of audible
issues like distortion.
Mastering
Basic Mastering
A basic master is simply achieved with a bit of limiting or multi band
compression once the mix is done and complete. It can be done with
an all in one solution like the izotope ozone vsts (which I'll mention
below) or with a couple of limiters and a bit of dynamic processing.
The easiest way to master a beat is eq out any left over bass, add a bit
of top sheen with a high shelf and low end beef with a low boost ( just
a touch on both) and let the limiter or multi band do the work of
increasing the volume. You want to leave an ample amount of
headroom in your mix so that you can achieve a better master all in
all. Somewhere between -9dB to -6db of headroom is usually good
enough but the more room the merrier. You have a lot more freedom
to use those dynamic plugins and can even try a bit of tape saturation
or a touch of standard saturation to softly energise the beat a little
more.
The Ozone Mastering Suites are really cool tools that can analyze your
audio with an A.I. to help you master it. The best thing would be to
learn how the parameters work and do it yourself yet it's a very
powerful tool for learning how to master better . You'll learn the ins
and out of all the plugins involved in the master chain , even by
45
loading up a simple preset . it’ll walk you through all the components
you could use to master a beat. Once again, the simpler the better.
You wouldn't want to drive things too hard and destroy the dynamics
in the beat but you wouldn't want it to lack in volume in comparison
to other beats or songs out in the world on the market or in the
charts.
Waves TG Mastering
This plug in is amazing
for pre mastering. It has
a couple of different
levels to it but it offers a
really clean and
customisable pre master
sound. Similar to just
applying a multi band
compressor on the mix,
this plug in can get you
a really polished sound
and if you have access to it, I recommend you try it out. You can use it
to complete your master or use it as i do and add gentle adjustments
to the sound. It lets you split mid and side channels like the m/s EQ we
went through but on a grand scale. Really it’s just an extra touch,
nothing make or break about it (you won't have a worse master if you
don't use it) but it has a couple of parametres like inbuilt eq,
saturation, compression, stereo widening. To learn how to use this
one is a little trickier but load up any Lu Diaz preset and you’ll be able
to pick apart what's going on.
Mastering with Clippers
T racks soft clipper can add an edge to your mix. Using it instead of
alimiter gives a louder sounding mix which you could choose to
couple with limiting but for simple hard hitting master, any soft
46
clipper will do . A little touch of drive , (hell even crank it hard and
dial it back down) will get you the elevation you need in a quick
master that’ll give you the volume and body if you need to send out
beats quickly but ready sounding.
Mastering with Limiters
Limiting is a dangerous thing if not done properly. You need to
achieve a target threshold. Youtube spotify and apple music have
made this easy for us. The basic figure here is , get your mix to -12 lufs
(approx) in the master. This will ensure your master stays consistent
across every digital and non digital platform. What is LUFS? LUFS is
basically another word for dBs but has a slightly different algorithms.
It is true that losing 1 lufs in loudness is the same as taking off a
decibel of sound with a meter but lufs (loudness units full scale) have
become the across the board way to measure and adjust the volume
of sound. With the target LUFS in mind, you can use your limiter to
reach that unit. You can use any of the metres underneath in the
metering section to check the overall loudness of a track. If its going
too high say -8/-9 lufs then your elosing dynamic quality and all major
streaming platforms will turn down the master to match their
threshold. So getting your audio closer to that target, sounding crisp
and punchy is ideal. It was introduced to stop people's music
sounding too loud or much louder than another track, and if you
think about it, everytime you hear a good master on a track, you often
hear it at a very similar volume across the board from track to track.
It was a way to standardise how loud things hgo and to stop them
from being squashed littles square looking waveforms here is the
example. Take your master, master it to -12 lufs, and take the same
master and master it to -6 lufs. -6 lufs will lose quality but appear
louder to you at first. As soon as spotify or youtube recognises it it
turns the master down by about 6-8 luf ( effectively dB) and for the
-12 lufs counterpart, it keeps it at the same level. You’ll have
maintained a lot more dynamics using the -12 method and overall get
47
a better sound out of it and keep in check all the work you've done in
mixing, not sorting all those tiny intricacies you spent so hard
working on.
Mastering is the final step to get the volume up and accentuate all the
good work, mixing is the bread and butter heavy changes you need to
make to get it to sound better louder. Mastering won't just fix a
crappy sounding mix, it'll make any problems more and more
obvious. With the ‘loudness wars’ having been over the last few years
if not more, music is being mastered more dynamically with less onus
on turning music up as loud as possible.
Metering solutions
Here are my favourite master metres to make sure everything is a
good level and balance.
Mastering the mix Levels - Solid plug in that’ll help you to
understand everything about modern mastering, and it really helps
checking your mix too
HOFA 4U Master Meter
Nugen Mastercheck/ Pro - allows you to hear how audio would
sound when uploaded to a streaming platform.
You Lean Meter - Checks the LUFS of a track, really simple plug in
Waves WLM LOUDNESS PLUS - simple metre that has a loot of
inbuilt and accurate detection of loudness and volume
Waves Dorough - has a great classic interface but does the same
thing basically
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Referencing
Referencing can help to show you how your mix sounds against
another track. You can load a reference track into the vst and a/B it
with your master to make sure everything is up to scratch. Mastering
the miox reference can help to show you where you're mix lacks in
comparison to another but most plugins, (any referencing plugin can
really help you learn how to get your sound more like the pros)
Advanced Masting
Here is my master chain i use on most of my
tracks when I'm finishing them off. I apply some
of the premastering stuff i went through if i find
it necessary but here is my chain i use that i've
tried and tested over time. It gets real nice rsluts
and is easy to set up.
SSL Compressor - really simple, just like the
buss compression I mentioned earlier, this just
ods the same thing but overall . does not do a lot,
high attack quick release, lowest threshold so
the needle just moves a tiny bit and no make up
gain.
M/S EQ
I use this to cut out any unwanted
frequencies in the speakers. I split it
into mid side to control the tone of
what comes through which section of
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the speaker. Nothing drastic here just a few simple cuts
Tape/General Saturation
Little bit of saturation. I really
just love the tape sounding
one but any hint of soft clip or
decapitator will add that
harmonic inch to the mix.
Don't want to drive it too
hard, you want it to sit on the
master and not do a whole lot
apart from a bit of analog
warmth.
Double Additive EQ
Nothing cray here,
just used some
analog modeled EQ
to pick out little
frequencies i like or
that are lacking. You
can do this with in
izotope ozone or the
TG mastering Suite
but i like to touch it
up slightly
separately. Literally just to taste but it can add that missing sparkle in
the hi’s and the missing weight in the bass.
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Mastering the Mix
Animate
Really simple here, just a
character booster. I use
this very softly on select
frequencies just to give the
extra dramatism to the
master. It has dry wet for
each parameter and is very
detailed and explains what
every parameter does. It's
basically an expander (which increases the dynamic range) a bit of a
compressor and saturation and a touch of steroization.
A few limiters
I like each of these
differently for their
different sounds. I
generally gently limit
on each to capitalize
on the different way
they process the audio.
It sometimes sounds
so forced if i'm
limiting heavy because
of lots of headroom so
i like to use different limiters to create retain those transient hitting
sounds and keep these dynamics in check. I won't usually go
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overboard on all of them but just using a few limiters can just end up
sounding a little more natural and you can get a little bit better
preservation of all your hard work in the mix (about 2db on each if
i'm trying to reach an overall of -6db etc. evenly distribute gain
reduction across them for best results ive found)
Answering some questions.
I hate mixing because it is time consuming and boring, how can i
make it more fun?
I hope I've shared enough of my fun tis in the book to help you with
this. Mixing is really about results and getting better than you were
before. Think of it like gaining xp in a game. You get stronger the
more you try , the better you get the harder it is to beat yourself but
all the little hours you put into it come back rewarding . getting that
quality quality mix after a little bit of self study and practice will be so
good for your morale. Like being able to complete a mix in 20 mins
flat and get it uploaded and out there, or ready to send to friends after
just getting familiar with some of the tips I've shown will surely help.
Using a variety of plugins and experimenting with the tools in the
DAW i would say are great ways of making it fun . Get the levels right
then just play around , make things sounds like they didn't originally,
morph them into something you love. Rob Papaen reverse is a great
plugin you can put on a lead reverse the signal and play it back after
the original forward signal so you could just throw that on some hints
for a bit of variety . that's a simple example to just get you to try
things out! /use something you haven't used before! Have a guitar
synth or lead? Put some chorus on it , make it all washed out and
psychedelic sounding. Don't just do what you here in everyone else's
production because it's ‘right ‘ or the ‘best’ way to do it.
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Incorporate the mix into your workflow to speed it up and literally
just experiment. Maybe you like your snare louder, put it louder.
Maybe you like ping pong delay on the hiu hats. Pout it on there. See
how it sounds. You’ll develop. Keep it up and get some studying done.
Think how bad your first few beats were. Now think how much
you've improved, smae with mixing.
How do i make my mix loud without clipping?
Gain stage, level, correct
mastering. Read thoise bits
in the book and you should
be well on the way to a good
master. Grab a n invisible
limiter plug in like A.O.M or
T racks and listen to the mix
would sound if limited. Thes
can really point out to you if
you've added too much
sauce on your drums and they start rattling the speakers in a bad
way. The E book should have you up to scratch on how to retain your
volume without clipping things like crazy.
How do I get the mix sounding as good in the speakers as it does
in my headphones?
What you have to appreciate here that speakers and headphones
reproduce the sound differently. It's good to swap between them
because speakers can highlight obvious flaws in the mix. A lot of the
time headphones are nor bassy enough and don't reproduce the bass
well so a speaker will then replay the same bass to you and it'll be
stupidly loud. Don't get comfortable using one medium to check you
mix . try using both, chopping and changing, maybe your speakers
53
actually accurately produce the sound better but you’re listening to
the voice in your head telling you that the headphones are crazy, user
those. Learn how they sound and how they are different and use it to
your advantage. Everything I find is a bit more obvious ins speaker .
However, they do have some drawbacks. Headphones are usually the
best way to check your mix for stereo field issues or stereo effects,
they will sound better generally because they are close to the ear so
reverb will sound fuller, delay would be a bit more prominent etc.
But most of us don't have sound treated rooms so lack the ability to
use speakers in the same way. That being said, i find headphones way
better or checking all of my time based and modulating effects
because it's a lot clearer to the ears what's going on.
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Glossary
EQ - Equalization, basically analyses the frequencies in a sound and
allows you determine what to remove and what to add. They come in
lots of shapes and sizes a VSTs but roughly do mostly the same stuff.
All a workflow and preference thing.
Reductive EQ - The act of using the EQ to remove the frequencies for
a sound
Frequencies - non scientifically, it's all the pitches within a sound
that make up the totality of it.
Mud - Low end stuff that clashes together when piled up and makes a
lot of mess in the mix. Danger spots are around 125Hz, 250Hz
Hz - the unit of measurement when describing frequencies or a sound
area (250hz-500hz) and probably some other sciency stuff.
Mid/Side EQ - The act of splitting the EQ into independent channels so
you can effect the side and middle frequencies separately
Stereo Field - The field in which all sounds exist. Your headphones
reproduce this really well and it can be made really obvious with
panning something left or right. It stops being down the centre and
appears more angled in the speaker or headphones.
Tweeter - The part of the speaker responsible for producing hi end.
Mastering / Mastering chain - The final step to touch up the mix and
get it finalised and higher in overall volume/ mastering chain is the
order of plugins in the master that help you achieve this.
Brick wall - the act of stopping a sound entirely at a certain point.
Like closing a gate.
Post analyzer - the analyzer on a plugin that shows you how the
frequencies look after you've done something to them
Compressor - A Dynamic VST used for reducing or evening out
changes in loudness
Signal chain - the order of plugins on a channel or master
Additive EQ - The process of adding to a sound with an equaliser
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Saturation - The act of creating harmonic frequencies within an
original sound to raise the character and dramatism with in it.
Hardware - Original real life versions of VST’s that were used in old
school or new modern studios.
dB - Decibels, the unit of measurement corresponding to what we
know as volume
DAW - Digital Audio Workstation. FL, Ableton, Pro Tools, Logic,
Reaper etc.
Dynamic range - the difference between the loudest and quietest
points in the beat
Waveform - The way the original sound looks when you view it in the
DAW. Think of an audio clip and how it looks.
Sidechain- the process of routing one piece of audio to another to
create a ducking effect
Mono (not stereo) Everything down the middle of the speaker. Kick
and bass galore
Levelling - the process of making sure each volume of each
instrument or drum appears correct to standards set in the music
world.
Limiter - An aggressive compressor used to finalise a mix.
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Outro
Hope you guys have enjoyed the ebook and have learned something
new whilst reading it. Or if not, hopefully you managed to become
more efficient in making mixing decisions and have bettered your
musical career. I tried to make everything as simple as possible to
understand and tried to give you a rationale as to why I do the things
I do in my mixes.
This book can definitely help alleviate some of the pressure you feel
when getting to the mixing portion of production and will get you up
to speed and on the right track to bettering your sound, creatively and
professionally.
MG
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