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Jinx the Cat

Copyright © 2017 by Rachel M. Randle, Sleepy Sheep Patterns, All Rights Reserved. This pattern is for personal use
only! You are not allowed to copy, share (for sale or for free), alter, translate, publish, or redistribute this pattern or any
part of the pattern over the Internet or offline. You are welcome to sell any dolls you make from this pattern but please
provide a link to my etsy store and the pattern name in your description as follows:
Jinx the Cat Pattern by Sleepy Sheep Patterns
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Skill Level www.etsy.com/shop/sleepysheeppatterns/
Basic to intermediate crochet and amigurumi skills, you will need to know how to change yarn
colors, as well as an invisible single crochet decrease, surface crocheting, making a magic circle
and how crochet in the round. Feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions, I will answer as
quickly as possible. Also check out my instagram and send me photos of your final creation!

Abbreviations
US Terms

ch = chain
sc = single crochet stitch
hdc - half double crochet stitch
inc = single crochet increase (make 2 sc
into 1 stitch)
dec = single crochet decrease (2 sc together
but I prefer to use the invisible decrease
technique which is single crocheting 2
stitches together through the front loops) Materials
slst = slip stitch 2.00 mm crochet hook
sk = skip 2.75 mm crochet hook
st(s) = stitch(es) DK or Worsted weight yarn in a
BLO = single crochet in back loops only variety of colors
See the “Before you begin...” section for exact yarn
FLO = single crochet in front loops only
yarn needle
* = repeat instructions around
sewing pins
rnd(s) = round(s)
2 - 6mm safety eyes
F/O = fasten off
stitch marker or extra piece of yarn
[ ] = total number of stitches you should
have for the round or row scissors
WS = Wrong side soft stuffing
RS = Right side
fabric glue
cc - color change
blush, oil pastel or light pink fabric marker
1- 2.5” bell (see pg.#25)

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This doll is crocheted in the round from the feet to the head as one piece, the
arms are joined just as the legs are. Try to crochet tightly and keep the same gauge
throughout the doll. Jinx is about 11” tall (not including her witch hat).
To create Jinx, I used Paintbox Cotton DK yarn in Light Caramel (skin color),
Paper White (underwear, legs), Melon Sorbet (shirt, hat band, bows on shorts),
Soft Fudge (hair), Coffee Bean (boots, hat, belt) and Pure Black (boot strings, belt
tie, ears, tail, collar). For her striped socks if you do not want a “jog” I recommend
using Planet June’s Perfect Stripes Tutorial otherwise color change as normal (I
show pictures of the differences on pg.#3).

You are welcome to use any size/color yarn just adjust your hook accordingly and
read any notes or tips for help! If you use a larger yarn and hook size you may need
larger safety eyes as well.

How to do a clean F/O...


I use this for the arms and most color changes, if I don’t specify to use this type of
F/O just use a normal F/O. You don’t have to use this technique I just prefer to use
it so that there are not any bumps and it makes for a smoother color change.

Insert your yarn needle Insert your yarn needle down


into the 2nd st from your into the middle of the last sc
F/O and pull yarn through you made on the last round
(where you F/O’d) and pull the
yarn through

This is what it should look


like when you’re done
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Arms Make 2
Use 2.00 mm hook and Light Caramel yarn
R1: magic circle [6]
R2: (sc 1, inc)* [9]
R3-4: sc around [9] (2 rnds)
R5: sc 4, dc 4 in same st, sc 4[12]
R6: sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec 2x [9]
R7-8: sc around [9] (2 rnds)
Stuff hand lightly
R9: dec 1x, sc around [8]
Stuff the wrists lightly but
leave the rest of the arm unstuffed
R10-27: sc around [8] (18 rnds)
Use a clean F/O for both arms
TIP: You do not need to leave a
long tail for sewing, the arms will be
crocheted to the body later. See
pictures on pg.#3 for how to do a
clean F/O.
Legs Make 2
TIP: See the Before you begin... section on pg.#3 about making the stripes, if you
want to use the Perfect Stripes technique I have included a link in the 2nd paragraph.

Normal color change Perfect Stripes/Jogless Stripes


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Legs Continued... www.etsy.com/shop/sleepysheeppatterns/

Use 2.00 mm hook and start with Paper White yarn


R1: magic circle [6] R31-32: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
R2: inc around [12] cc to Paper White
R3: (sc 1, inc)* [18] R33-34: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
R4: sc around [18] cc to Pure Black
R5: (BLO) sc around [18] R35-36: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
R6: sc around [18] cc to Paper White
cc to Pure Black R37-40: sc around [10] (4 rnds)
R7: sc 6, dec 3x, sc 6 [15] Clean F/O the 1st leg. Repeat to make
R8: sc 5, dec 3x, sc 4 [12] the 2nd leg, do not F/O the 2nd leg.
cc to Paper White
R9: sc 4, dec 2x, sc 4 [10]
Stuff foot - make sure to stuff leg as
you crochet about every 5 or so rows
R10: sc around [10]
cc to Pure Black
R11-12: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Paper White
R13-14: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Pure Black
R15-16: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Paper White
R17-18: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Pure Black
R19-20: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Paper White
R21-22: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Pure Black
R23-24: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Paper White
R25-26: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Pure Black
R27-28: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
cc to Paper White
R29-30: sc around [10] (2 rnds)
Completed Legs
cc to Pure Black
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Body
Use 2.00 mm hook and continue to use Paper White yarn
Make sure feet are facing away from
you before you ch 2 and join, you will be
continuing in white color yarn.
R1: Ch 2, join to leg with sc, sc 9 around
(for a total of 10 sc + 2 ch), sc in back of
ch 2, 10 sc [24]
R2-4: sc around [24] (3 Rounds)
R5: (sc 10, dec)* [22]
R6: sc around [22]
Change to Light Caramel yarn
R7-8: sc around [22] (2 Rounds)
R9: dec, sc 4, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 3, dec [18]
R10: (sc 7, dec)* [16]
R1: Example
R11-17: sc around [16] (7 Rounds) This picture is from Luna’s pattern but the legs
are handled the exact same way when joining!

sc into the back of


these ch 2 sts

R1: Completed

R17: Completed
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Body Continued...

Stuff
R18: join arm by sc 8, sc 8 along back,
join 2nd arm sc 8, sc 8 on front of body
[32]
TIP: Make sure thumbs are pointing in
the correct direction!
R19: (sc 2, dec)* [24]
R20: (sc 2, dec)* [18] right start, counts as 1 sc left
R21: (sc 1, dec)* [12]

en
Stuff

d
R22: (sc 1, dec)* [8] foot foot
R23: sc around [8]
Do not F/O and continue onto the head R18: Example
instructions

The body should have 32 sts around and look like this once the arms are joined

joining the 2nd arm to the body R18 completed

R18 completed R23 completed


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Use 2.00 mm hook and continue using Light Caramel yarn


R1: sc around [8]
R2: inc around [16]
Stuff neck very firmly
R3: (sc 1, inc)* [24]
R4: (sc 2, inc)* [32]
R5: (sc 3, inc)* [40]
R6: (sc 4, inc)* [48]
R7: (sc 5, inc)* [56]
R8-16: sc around [56] (9 rnds)
Insert safety eyes between row
11 & 12 with 9 sc in between
R17: (sc 5, dec)* [48]
R18-19: sc around [48] (2 rnds)
R20: (sc 4, dec)* [40]
Start Stuffing
R21: (sc 3, dec)* [32]
R22: (sc 2, dec)* [24]
R23: (sc 1, dec)* [16]
Stuff more
R24: dec 8x [8]
Finish stuffing
R25: dec 3x [5]
F/O and weave in ends to close hole

This is what your doll should look


like so far!
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Shorts
Use 2.00mm hook and Paper White yarn
TIP: The shorts are made similar to how
we join the legs to make the body. There
are pictures for help.

R1: ch 14, sc into the 1st ch you made to


form a ring, sc 13 around [14]

R1 completed

R2: ch 1, sk st and sc into next st* repeat around [14] (example on next page)

TIP: We will be running thread to create “ties” through the sts that are skipped. If
you do not wish to have ribbons on the side of the shorts just sc around on R2.

Photos and instructions continued on the next page...

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R3: (sc 1, inc)* [21]


R4-5: sc around [21] (2 rnds)
R6: (sc 1, dec)* [14]
Clean F/O 1st leg and repeat R1-6 for
2nd leg. Do not F/O the 2nd leg you
will join to the 1st leg like we did on
the body. Continue onto R7.
R7: ch 1 and join with a sc to the 1st R2 Example - ch 1 and sk st
leg anywhere, sc 13 sts around, sc
into the back of the ch 1, sc 14 sts R4 Example - Ch 1 and join
around [30]
R8: (sc 13, dec)* [28]
R9: sc around [28]
R10: (sc 5, dec)* [24]
R11-13: sc around (3 rnds)
R14: (sc 10, dec)* [22]
R15: slst around the top of the shorts
Clean F/O and weave in ends

sc into the back of the ch 1

R4 completed

Instructions and photos continued


onto the next page...

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R7 completed Completed shorts!

For the Ribbons - use Melon Sorbet yarn and double thread through your yarn
needle, weave the yarn through the ch 1 spaces you made on R2. We will tie into
bows once the shorts are placed on your doll during the Getting Dressed section...

Weave your yarn in and out through


the ch 1 spaces you created on R2.

Once finished weaving, cut the yarn Completed shorts!


at the bottom of the needle and
knot off. Make sure your lengths of 11
yarn are equal.
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Use 2.00mm hook and use Melon Sorbet yarn


To Start - ch 27 and sc into 1st ch you R10: (sc 10, dec)* [22]
made to form a ring (just like the shorts!) R11-18: sc around [22] (8 rnds)
R1-6: sc around [27] (6 rnds) TIP: We will be creating the sleeve
R7: (sc 7, dec)* [24] holes on R19, pictures are below for
TIP: We will be creating the tail hole on reference.
R8 if you are not making a kitty you can R19: sc 6, ch 5 & sk 5 sts, sc 5, ch 5 &
just sc around on R8. sk 5 sts, sc in the last st of the rnd [22]
R8: ch 2 and sk 2 sts, sc 22 [24] R20: sc around [22]
R9: sc around [24] Clean F/O and weave in ends

To Start Example - Form a ring R1 Completed

R19 Examples: ch 5 & sk 5 sts to make sleeve holes

R19 Example R19 Completed Completed Sleeveless Shirt


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Use 2.00mm hook and use Melon Sorbet yarn


To create the long back of the shirt you
will join to the front of the shirt like in
the photos and work in rows.
1: ch 1 (does not count as st) and sc into
same st you chained from, sc 17 sts [18]
2: ch 1 & turn, sc 18 sts [18]
3-11: Repeat step 2 (9 rows)
Now we will start crocheting
around the bottom and back of shirt.
12: inc in first corner and sc around,
make sure to inc in each corner (all 4) Join at the front of the shirt and, sc
Once you reach the beginning st of step around the back of the shirt
12, F/O and weave in ends

Step 1 Completed (Front View) Step 11 Completed - to start step 12,


inc in 1st corner then sc around in
the direction of the arrows

Make sure to inc in each corner Step 12 Completed 13


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Sleeves Make 2 www.etsy.com/shop/sleepysheeppatterns/

Use 2.00mm hook and use Melon Sorbet yarn


R1: join with ch 1 under arm (like in R12: (sc 4, inc)* [18]
pictures) then sc in same st as the ch 1 R13: (sc 5, inc)* [21]
you just made (ch 1 does not count as a R14-16: sc around [21]
st), sc 9 sts around [10] R17: (sc 6, inc)* [24]
R2-5: sc around [12] (4 rnds) R18-20: sc around [24] (3 rnds)
R6: (sc 1, inc)* [15] Clean F/O and repeat for 2nd sleeve
R7-11: sc around [15] (5 rnds)

R1 Example - start in the middle and ch 1, sc into the same st you chained from

R1 completed R5 Completed Example - This is what your shirt


continue until you are should look like with
finished with the 1st sleeve completed sleeves!
and repeat R1-20 to make
the 2nd sleeve.
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Use 2.00mm hook, Coffee Bean yarn and Pure Black yarn
TIP: The belt is worked in rows not rounds! You can either sew the belt to the shirt
OR glue the belt to the shirt. I glued the belt onto the shirt for time purposes but it is
up to you!

1. ch 16, sc into 2nd ch from hook and sc 14 sts [15]


2-5. ch 1 & turn, sc 15 sts [15] (4 rows)
F/O, either weave in ends (if gluing) or leave a tail for sewing to the shirt. Pin to the
shirt and glue or sew. Make sure not to glue the edges down that you will be threading
the black yarn through. Cut black yarn and thread through the belt, see pictures for
reference.

Pin the belt to the shirt and either sew or glue onto the shirt. Make sure not to
glue the edges of the belt that you will be threading through! Insert your threaded
yarn needle and pull black yarn through the top of the belt.

Ex. Top of the belt is Now begin to run your yarn needle through in diagonals
threaded on both sides across to each side of the belt. You will have to repeat
until you make 2 “x’s” and a straight line across the top
and bottom. Pictures for reference are continued onto
the next page...

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To finish the belt (3rd picture) - sew the thread across to the bottom of the belt to
create a straight line and pull through the inside of the shirt, knotting off the end
and trimming the thread. Repeat this for the other side (see 4th picture) to finish
the belt!

Completed Belt!

Boots Make 2
Use 2.00mm hook and Coffee Bean yarn
R1: magic circle [6]
R2: inc around [12]
R3: (sc 1, inc)* [18]
R4: (sc 2, inc)* [24]
R5: (BLO) sc around [24]
R6-8: sc around [24] (3 rnds)
R9: sc 9, dec 3x, sc 9 [21]
R10: sc 7, dec 3x, sc 8 [18]
R11: sc 7, dec 2x, sc 7 [16]
R12-18: sc around [16]
Clean F/O and weave in ends.
Repeat R1-18 to make another boot.
See photos on next page for how to
embroider the “x’s”.

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Once you have embroidered your “x’s”, knot off the


yarn on the inside of the boot and trim the ends.
Repeat for the 2nd boot!

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I recommend using a permanent washable fabric glue (like Fabri-Tac or something similar) to
glue the hair down to the head. Make sure to crochet the hair very loosely and use a larger
hook than you did for the rest of the doll. If you need more coverage or longer hair you can
always add chains to each strand!
Hair
Use 2.75mm hook and Soft Fudge yarn
R1: magic circle [8]
R2: inc around in BLO [16]

Bottom Layer
TIP: Each st in the magic circle will
have 2 strands coming from it - see
pictures for example.

1. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook,


make 16 sc down then slst into same
st you chained from [17]
2: ch 16, sc into 2nd ch from hook,
make 14 sc down, slst into next st of
the magic circle [15] Step 1 Ex. ch 18,
3. ch 9, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into 2nd ch
make 7 sc down then slst into same
st you chained from [8]
4. ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook,
make 6 sc down, slst into next st of
the magic circle [7]
5. ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook,
make 6 sc down then slst into same
st you chained from [7]
6. ch 8, sc into 2nd ch from hook,
make 6 sc down, slst into next st of Step 1 Ex. slst into Step 2 Ex. slst into the
the magic circle [7] same st you chained next st of mc
7 & 8. repeat step 5 & 6 from (2 strands in each st)
9. ch 9, sc into 2nd ch from hook,
make 7 sc down then slst into same
st you chained from [8]

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Hair Continued...

10. ch 16, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 14 sc down, slst into next st of the magic
circle [15]
11. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 16 sc down then slst into same st you
chained from [17]
12. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 16 sc down, slst into next st of the magic
circle [17]
13 & 14. repeat step 11 & 12
15 & 16. repeat step 11 & 12
17 & 18. repeat step 11 & 12
19 & 20. repeat step 11 & 12
21 & 22. repeat step 11 & 12
23 & 24. repeat step 11 & 12
25 & 26. repeat step 11 & 12
27 & 28. repeat step 11 & 12
29 & 30. repeat step 11 & 12
31. repeat step 11
32. ch 18, sc into 2nd ch from hook, make 16 sc down, slst into beginning st and
F/O and weave in ends - you do not need a long tail for sewing since we will be
gluing the hair down

Continue onto the Top Layer section...

Your hair should look like this


once you are finished with the
Bottom Layer. Now time to work
on the Top Layer!!!

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Hair Continued...

Top Layer
TIP: You will be joining and crocheting
from the inner part of the magic circle
that we made earlier from increasing
in the BLO (see pics - there should be
8 BLs), there will be 2 strands coming
from each BL st just like the bottom
layer.

1. join with Soft Fudge yarn and ch


18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook and
sc 16 sts down, slst into the same st of You will join at the red arrow
the inner magic circle to create the next
strand [17]
2. ch 16, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 14 sts down, slst into the next st
of the inner magic circle [15]
TIP: You should have 2 strands coming
from one back loop st!
3. ch 9, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 7 sts down, slst into the same st
of the inner magic circle to create the
next strand [8]
4. ch 8, sc into the 2nd ch from hook Step 1 Ex. - Join with Soft Fudge yarn
and sc 6 sts down, slst into the next st of
the inner magic circle [7]
5. ch 8, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 6 sts down, slst into the same st
of the inner magic circle to create the
next strand [7]
6. ch 9, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 7 sts down, slst into the next st of
the inner magic circle [8]
Pictures and instructions
continued onto the next page! Step 1 Ex. - slst into the same st of inner mc
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Hair Continued...

7. ch 16, sc into the 2nd ch from hook


and sc 14 sts down, slst into the same st
of the inner magic circle to create the
next strand [15]
8. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 16 sts down, slst into the next st
of the inner magic circle [17]
9. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 16 sts down, slst into the same st
of the inner magic circle to create the
next strand [17] Step 2 Ex. slst into next st of the inner mc
10. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 16 sts down, slst into the next st
of the inner magic circle [17]
11 & 12. Repeat step 9 & 10
13 & 14. Repeat step 9 &10
15. Repeat step 9
16. ch 18, sc into the 2nd ch from hook
and sc 16 sts down, slst into the 1st st of
the inner magic circle [17]
F/O and weave in ends

This is what your hair should


Hair Assembly look like completed!
After you pin the bottom layer of the hair down unpin one strand at a time,
glue and repeat! Be sure to use a glue that is permanent and washable like Fabri-
Tac not tacky glue! You may have some overlap on the back of the hair which is
fine.
After the bottom layer has been glued down and dried, pin down the top layer
of the hair and then unpin one strand at a time, glue and repeat!
Make sure not to glue hair down too low on the face, pay attention to where I
put my sewing pins for where to stop applying glue at (typically eye level). This is so
the hair doesn’t seem too “stiff”.

Instructional photos on the next page... 21


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Pin the bottom layer of hair to the head

Unpin and glue each Now pin the top layer


strand of the bottom down and glue!
layer to the head

Pictures continued onto the


next page!

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Your hair should look like this once you have finished gluing the hair to the
head!

Blushes
This is completely optional but I like to use my prismacolor nupastel 286-P
for blush (I use a paintbrush to help smooth it out after I put it on), but you may use
blush, eye shadow, fabric marker, felt, or whatever you prefer to use for blush!

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Ears Make 2 www.etsy.com/shop/sleepysheeppatterns/

Use 2.00mm hook and Pure Black yarn


R1: magic circle [4]
R2: sc around [4]
R3: inc around [8]
R4: sc around [8]
R5: (sc 1, inc)* [12]
R6: sc around [12]
F/O and leave tail for sewing to the head,
repeat for the 2nd ear. Once both ears
are made, pin the ears to the head and
sew. Ear placement is important if you’re
making the Witch hat because there will
be “holes” for the ears, the hat stretches
pretty well but use the reference the
pictures below for help!

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Use 2.00mm hook and Pure Black yarn


R1: magic circle [5]
R2-25: sc around [5] (24 rnds)
F/O and leave tail for sewing, pin to body above the underwear line and sew, see
pictures below for reference.

Accessories
Collar
Use 2.00mm hook and Pure Black yarn
TIP: I use a 2.5” size bell for an 11” doll. The bell IS a choking hazard for small
children so keep that in mind if this doll is being made for a small child.You may
need to adjust the size of the bell depending on the size of your doll. You can
always just use the collar without the bell or crochet a bell if you wish to avoid the
choking hazard.

1. leave a tail when starting chain, ch 10, F/O, leave a tail (so you have a tail on
both ends) and push the first chain you made so that it becomes a knot leaving 9
sts.
2. Thread your bell with either yarn or heavy duty sewing thread and sew to the
middle of the collar. Knot off and weave in ends.
3. Tie the collar onto your doll’s neck and knot off both ends of the tails and trim
the length of the tails.

Pictures on the next page...

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Step 1 Ex. Completed Step 2. Thread bell Step 2. Sew bell to collar

Step 3 Ex. tie onto doll’s neck and trim ends and Completed Collar
knot off the bottom of each tail

Witch Hat
Use 2.00mm hook and Coffee Bean yarn
R1: magic circle [4] R11: (sc 10, inc)* [24]
R2: (sc 1, inc)* [6] R12: (sc 11, inc)* [26]
R3: (sc 2, inc)* [8] R13: (sc 12, inc)* [28]
R4: (sc 3, inc)* [10] R14: (sc 13. inc)* [30]
R5: (sc 4, inc)* [12] R15: (sc 14, inc)* [32]
R6: (sc 5, inc)* [14] R16: (sc 15, inc)* [34]
R7: (sc 6, inc)* [16] R17: (sc 16, inc)* [36]
R8: (sc 7, inc)* [18] R18: (sc 17, inc)* [38]
R9: (sc 8, inc)* [20] R19. (sc 18, inc)* [40]
R10: (sc 9, inc)* [22]
Instructions and photos continued
onto the next page...
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TIP: On the next round we will start leaving openings (skipping sts) for the ears.
If you are making this hat and do not want the ear holes all you need to do is not
F/O and continue single crocheting over the parts I would have you normally
skip, this will add 4 sts to the end of the round count. Also do not count the ch
1’s you will be making in this pattern! Also as you F/O a lot there will be a
lot of strings, I typically knot them together and either weave in ends or you can
cheat and trim them and glue them into the inside of the hat never to be seen!

R20: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained
from (the chain 1 does not count), sc 15 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc
into the same st where you chained from, sc 19 sts [36]

R20 Ex. F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into same st as ch 1. You will continue
to do this to make the ear holes until the end of R25.
R21: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained
from, sc 7 sts, inc, sc 8 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st
where you chained from, inc, sc 8 sts, inc, sc 8 sts, inc [40]
R22: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained
from, sc 16 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you
chained from, sc 22 sts [40]
R23: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained
from, sc 8 sts, inc, sc 7 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st
where you chained from, sc 1 st, inc, sc 9 sts, inc, sc 9 sts, inc [44]
R24: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained
from, sc 17 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you
chained from, sc 25 sts [44]
R25: F/O, sk 2 sts and join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained
from, sc 2 sts, inc, sc 3 sts, inc, sc 3 sts, inc, sc 3 sts, inc, sc 2 sts, F/O, sk 2 sts and
join with a ch 1 & sc into the same st where you chained from, inc, (sc 3, inc)*
repeat 6x until the end of the rnd [55] Do not F/O
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R26. ch 2 & sk 2 sts, sc 23, ch 2 & sk 2 sts, sc 32 [59]

R26 Ex. ch 2 and sk 2 sts - this is to close the hole for the cat ear,
continue onto R27...
R27: sc around [59]
R28: (FLO) sc around [59]
R29: inc around [118]
R30-34: sc around [118] (5 rnds)
Clean F/O and weave in ends, now it is time to make the orange band!

Hat Band & Hat Assembly


ch 52, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch [49] F/O, either
leave tail for sewing to the hat or weave in ends if gluing! You can also glue
the ends up under the band if you feel like “cheating”.

Completed Hat!

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Pull the legs through the Pull the shirt up the body Make sure to pull her tail
shirt through the tail hole

Pinch the hand and work Pull the arm through the Fold her shirt up
her arm through the 1st 2nd sleeve, don’t forget to
sleeve reshape the hands once
finished

Pinch the feet and pull through the shorts, you may have to wiggle the shorts on if
they are a little tight and don’t forget to reshape the feet after the shorts are on! Tie
the ribbons on each side of the shorts.

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Fold her shirt down Pinch the foot, wiggle and pull her boot on. After the
boot is on I typically reshape the foot and repeat for the
next boot.

Put her hat on and pull her


ears through the ear holes
we made.

Jinx is dressed and ready to


trick or treat!

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Congratulations!

You can now breathe a sigh of relief - you are finished! I hope you enjoyed making
Jinx as much as I enjoyed creating her!!! Watch for my next pattern soon and I’ll be
updating instagram with upcoming pattern spoilers! Also send me photos of your
final creations I love seeing what you guys create :)

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