Gemstones Buying Guide

Buying gemstones and gemstone jewelry can be intimidating. This page contains useful information on
how to assess the value of jewelry so that you can be a brilliantly empowered gemstone shopper. Be sure
to check out the pages specific to any gemstone you are interested in.

The quality of a gemstone depends on many different characteristics. Four of them can be easily
remembered as the 4 C s: Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat.

Color

This refers to the color of a gemstone. In general, the more vibrant, strong and beautiful the color is, the
more valuable the stone. This strength in color is often called Intensity Examples of color intensity:

Another aspect of a stone s color that can effect its value is its rarity. For example, a golden-pink topaz
(Imperial Topaz) is more valuable than a blue topaz, all other characteristics being equal. This is because
it is harder to find topaz of this color.

Too Light Amethyst: Better Color Amethyst:
This stone is a very The color here is stronger
pale, dull unattractive and more attractive,
color. It is therefore, though not “top color.”
relatively less valuable. Some people like this
color better. It is easy to
find.
Best Color Amethyst: Rare Color in Amethyst.
This is the ideal and The flashes of red in this
most valuable color for amethyst make it very rare
amethyst. It is intense, and valuable. A large
dark and beautiful. stone of this color will
command top prices.
Clarity
Clarity refers to the amount of inclusions or impurities there are in a stone. If you can see through the
stone with an unobstructed view of the bottom facets (called the pavilion), it is a clear stone. Inclusions
are usually another mineral that has been trapped inside the crystal as it was forming. Clarity is also
affected by internal cracks.
Generally speaking, the clearer the stone, the more valuable it is:

Poor Clarity: This stone
is almost opaque. We can
not see into it, nor can we
see any light reflecting or
glowing from the inside
because of the thick
mineral deposits
(inclusions) inside it.
Sapphires of this clarity
are common and less
valuable
Decent Clarity: We Typical Clarity: This As Good as it Gets.
can see into this sapphire is not perfectly Wow. A very nice
sapphire somewhat: clear, but we can catch sapphire, which as far as
depth of color and light light from most of the the eye can tell is very
reflecting from a few bottom facets. This is clear. We see into the
facets. The white representative of what is whole stone and catch a
cloudy areas still widely available in the lot of reflected light.
impede its beauty and market and medium Sapphire like this are
make it less valuable. priced (depending also rare and command top
on color, cut and size) prices.

There are some exceptions however. Certain gemstones such as emeralds are hardly ever perfectly clear
, therefore clarity plays a small role in its value. There are even instances where certain inclusions can
make a stone worth more.

Cut

The cut of the stone is also very important. It is more common to see a bad cut than it is to see a good
cut, especially in very precious stones. A good cut is one that is symmetrically and beautifully
proportioned, perfectly polished and makes the most out of the stones natural beauty.
There are several different forms in which gemstones can be cut

Faceted
This is the most common method in fine jewelry. Faceting allows for the most sparkle and light reflection. .
Simply put, you can tell a good cut (faceted stone) by how well it sparkles. A properly cut stone has its
facets at particular angles to reflect the most light possible. This is because cutting a stone at the best
reflective angles often means reducing the size and weight of the stone.

This is cut badly: we can This is cut badly: There This cut is better. This is a perfect cut.
see through it (“fish eye”) is a dark spot in the middle However some light is See how much more it
and it does not sparkle. where light does not still lost through th sparkles
reflect. bottom

Only relatively clear stones can be faceted.

Within faceted stones, there are many different cuts. Here are some examples:
Princess, round brilliant, cushion, oval, marquis, heart, emerald, barrion, fancy
Bezel (reflects more surface light)

Example of fancy cuts: lone star, concave, star

A well proportioned gemstone should look more or less like this:

Carat
When it comes to gemstones, size matters. All else being equal, the bigger the stone, the more valuable it
is. In wholesale gem trading, gems are often priced per carat. It would make sense therefore that the
more carats, the more its worth. However, it doesn t stop there. An additional factor in the value is the
rarity of large stones. This means that the larger the stone, the higher the price per carat. For example, a
1 carat ruby with a nice color and cut might cost $700. But a 5 carat ruby of similar cut and color will not
cost $3500 (5 X $700); it might cost $10,000. This is because it is very rare to find a ruby that is 5 carats.
The effect that size has on price and value is determined by how rare large stones are. For example, very
large pieces of amethyst and topaz are relatively easy to find meaning that the price of large stones is not
exponentially higher.
Well which of these C s is most important Should you choose the most intensely colored stone or the
biggest stone It depends on the kind of stone. Each of the C s have varying degrees of importance
depending on the stone, but all of them play a role to some degree.

Rarity/ Uniqueness
Another factor in a gemstone s value is its uniqueness. This means unusual colors or patterns in the
stone or rare and interesting inclusions or impurities. These things are often appreciated and valued by
custom, fine jewelers, but overlooked by wholesalers. It may be hard to get a really good deal just going
by the 4 C s because everyone who buys and sells gemstones and gemstone jewelry professionally goes
by them to assess value. But if you are a careful observer, you may be able to spot something special in a
stone that someone else has missed.

Interesting inclusions: This is a Color Bands: The way color Rutile inclusions: Another
simple peice of quartz: not at all rare.
However, any observer of this stone
would notice the garden like
inclusions of other minerals and pay a
high price for something so unique
and interesting.
plays in a stone can make a
material special, unique and
therefore valuable to the right
person, as is the case with this
watermelon tourmaline.
simple peice of quartz, but the
star shaped inclusions of rutile
make it interesting and more
valuable to a fine jeweler or
collector.

Real or Fake

A very common concern when shopping for gemstones (especially from risky venders such as garage
sales) is whether the gemstone jewelry is real.

It turns out that it is not so simple to say a stone is real or fake : there is a continuum regarding the degree
to which humans influence gemstones. Some of them can be spotted if you know what to look for, others
need trained gemologists and special equipment. Here is a summary of the different points on the
continuum between fake and real:

Imitation: This is what can most fairly be called fake . When something is made to look like a gemstone
that is actually a totally different substance – that is imitation. For example, imagine you are at a flea
market and you see a ring with a pretty red stone and the seller tells you it is a ruby. However, when you
take it to get appraised you find out it is glass. You were sold an imitation or a fake. A note about fakes:
this scenario sounds disastrous and might make you very afraid to ever buy gemstone jewelry, but the
truth is, it happens rarely. Selling fake jewelry (and claiming it is real) is fraud. Because gemstones are
such a sensitive product (expensive and mysterious), reputation is everything. Selling one fake stone
even after 25 years of selling good jewelry can ruin a seller s livelihood by destroying their
reputation forever. Therefore, rest assured that most people who are professional jewelers or
gemstone sellers will do everything possible to make sure they don t sell you something fake. For
more information on how to identify imitations of gemstones, read more on the individual gemstones
pages.

Synthetic/ Created : Synthetic gemstones are real gemstones in that their mineral composition is exactly
the same as those in nature. The only difference is that they are made by humans in a short amount of
time versus by nature over hundreds of thousands of years. Created stones are always less valuable than
natural stones because they are less rare. Generally, created stones are only available for more
expensive gemstones such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. One example of a widely
accepted created gemstone is the cultured pearl: very prevalent even in the most elite jewelry.

A reputable seller (anyone with anything to lose) will always state whether the stone is synthetic. But if
you aren t sure, one way to form an educated guess is to observe the clarity. Man made stones are
usually much cleaner and clearer than natural stones. So if you see a bright clear sparkling ruby, sapphire
or emerald that isn t extremely expensive, you can bet that it is synthetic.
Pick of synthetic emerald and real emerald.
Treated/enhanced: Many gemstones will undergo some kind of treatment between the time they are
mined and the time they reach you. These treatments are carried out in order to improve the appearance
of the stone (color or clarity). Treatments include exposure to very high temperatures, irradiation, heat or
irradiation combined with another chemical (e.g. titanium), oiling, and waxing. Treated gemstones are not
considered less valuable as long as the treatment is considered permanent by relevant gemological
organizations. That means that the treatment will not wear off with time. In some kinds of gemstones,
treatments are so common that it is nearly impossible to find an untreated one. Rubies are an example of
this. Other gemstones could not exist without treatments, e.g. Mystic topaz. Read more about treatments
on the pages of individual gemstones.

Natural: The word natural is usually used to mean that the gemstone came is not man made. It does not
necessarily mean untreated. This word, however, does not have a standardized meaning and is often
abused. So if you see the word natural in the description of a gemstone you are interested in buying, keep
reading or asking questions.

Genuine: This word usually means that it is not fake . It has no implications of being from the earth
natural or untreated . For example, it is common to see descriptions of jewelry that contain the words
Genuine created ruby. It just means that it is mineralogically a ruby.

Untreated: When you see this word in a jewelry description, you can know that you re seeing something
rare (depending on the stone). If you see an untreated ruby for sale, it will be extremely valuable and
expensive. Untreated aquamarine or topaz of intense color is also rare and very special. However, if you
see Untreated amethyst, it s not such a big deal because amethyst is very available untreated. Learn
more about treatments of individual gemstones on the relevant pages of this site.

An Untreated Ruby:
Untreated rubies are almost
always very included (unless
they are in museums or with 6
digit price tags). Untreated
rubies are rare and valuable
A Typical Treated Ruby: This is
what you usually find in the market
for rubies: Natural, treated, and
with imperfect clarity. Clarity
ranges quite a bit: we realy on the
seller to tell us what about
treatments.
A Synthetic Ruby. This ruby is too
good to be true. When you’re in
Wal-Mart and you see ruby earings
that are perfectly clear and bright
red for $59, you know they are
synthetic (the tag will usually say so
as well)

Read more about individual gemstone

 Neelam
Manik
Panna (Blue
(Ruby)
(Emerald) Sapphire)

(Emerald)

Emerald has been prized, important, sacred and very expensive for thousands of years. It is one of the
most precious gemstones in the world. The defining characteristic of emerald that makes it so desirable is
its color: an inspiring emerald green.

The Most Valuable Emerald

The most valuable emerald is of a striking, perfect “emerald green”, large in size (over 5 cts.), fairly clear
and perfectly cut (faceted).

Here is a Summary of Emeralds of Different Levels of Quality and Value:

Lowest Value: Low Value: The High Value: This Highest Value:
These emeralds emerald in this ring emerald has Here is an example
are so included, has better clarity poorer clarity than of one of the highest
they are opaque. than the ones to the the one before. quality emeralds you
 Their color is dark left. The clarity is still However, its can buy. It is large
and dull. They are rather poor, intense glowing (over 2 carats), very
small and poorly however. The cut is color and its large nice clarity (for an
cut. Emeralds like mediocre and it is size make it worth emerald), perfect
this are not worth small. The best thing more. cut, and glowing
much. about this emerald is emerald green color.
its lovely color. If this An emerald like this
gemstone were by is worth several
itself, it should not thousand dollars.
cost more than
$100.

6 Things You Should Know Before Buying an Emerald

1. Color: The most important determiner of an emerald’s quality is its color. The best color for an emerald
is a bright intense green that is not too dark and not too pale. Learn more about how COLOR
affects the value of an emerald.

2. Size: The bigger the emerald, the more valuable it is. Very small emeralds can be purchased quite
affordably, because there is less material, and also because small emeralds are less rare than large
emeralds. Learn more about How SIZE affects the value of an emerald.

3. Cut: The price and value of an emerald is also determined by the quality of its cut. A well cut emerald
will sparkle and reflect the maximum amount of light. Learn more about How CUT affects the value of
an emerald.

4. Clarity: Almost all natural emeralds have some amount of cloudiness or internal flaws, called
inclusions. It is acceptable for emeralds to have less than perfect clarity and it does not lower the
emerald’s value. However, there is a significant difference in emeralds that are heavily included, or are so
cloudy that they lose their transparency. Learn more about how CLARITY affects the value of an
emerald.

5. Shape: Oval, Rectangular and square emeralds are quite beneficial for astrological purpose.

6. Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations: Almost all emeralds go through some kind of treatment
before they are made into jewelry. Some of these treatments are accepted and some are considered
fraudulent. Also because of their high value, emeralds are commonly synthesized in labs. And
occasionally, a dishonest vender may try to sell another gemstone and pass it off as emerald. Read here
to learn about Emerald treatments and synthetics and how to tell the difference.

7. Astrology Significance: Emeralds have a lot of healing properties and have been important to many
cultures for thousands of years. Learn more about Emerald Jyotish Significance to see if it’s something
you relate to.

Below are large pictures of individual emerald gemstones and emerald jewelry discussed and
analyzed.
Here is an emerald cut into a cabochon.
Emeralds cut into cabochon are always of
poorer clarity and are generally less expensive.
However, this one has a very nice green color
which makes it more valuable.

These are examples of the worst quality

emeralds. The clarity is very poor, the cuts are
bad, they are small, and most importantly, the
color is dull. Do not buy emeralds like this
unless you just want to own an emerald and
you’re on a tight budget.

The emerald in this ring is nice and clear – a

little too clear. In fact its absence of the
characteristic inclusions is an indication that it is
synthetic. The cut is okay: allows for a nice
reflection of light. The green is just a tad too
yellow.
 This is the kind of emerald you want to buy.
Even though it is not as clear as the emerald in
the ring above, it is more valuable because of its
glowing emerald green color. The poor clarity
does not detract significantly from its value and
the cut is very good (all facets are even and light
is reflected from the bottom)

This emerald is nice and clear and very well cut

(emerald cut). However, the green color is a bit
too dark.

This emerald has poor clarity with many

whispy inclusions and fractures typical of
emerald. However, the main detractor of
its value is the yellowish green color. An
emerald’s color should be a bit bluer and
more vibrant.

This is an example of a very poorly cut emerald.

We can see through the bottom, which means it
was not cut properly: light should be reflected
back to our eyes. The facets are also uneven
and chipped. Like most emeralds, this one is
included so the clarity is poor. The color in this
one is too teal and too pale.
Emerald Color

How Color Affects the Value of Emerald

The color of an emerald is its most important determiner of value.  The best color of an emerald is
“emerald green.”  There is nothing else in the world that quite has this color.  It is not too yellow and not
too blue; it is not pale or dark, but intense and bright.  A quality emerald looks like it’s glowing.  Typically,
the finest colored emeralds come from Columbia.

An illustration of how color affects the value of emerald. Note: Color is the most important factor
determining the value of an emerald.

Too Dark: This emerald is
very dark green.  It does not
have the signature emerald
green color: this is a color
common in other, less
valuable stones.  Since we
buy emerald for its color, we
don’t want it to have one like
this.
Too Yellow: This Too Blue and Pale: Best Color: This is
color of emerald is This color is not a true emerald green.  This
lovely and intense, “emerald green” stone has an intense
though a little too either.  It is too blue.  glowing color that is a
yellow to have the The color is also shade different from any
highest value. rather pale. other green gemstone. 
This color emerald is the
most valuable.

Emerald Carat Weight

 After color, the most important determining factor of the value of an emerald is its size.

How the Size of an Emerald Affects its Value

Very large emeralds (over 10 cts) of good quality are extremely rare.  Most of them are in museums,
crown jewels or the jewelry boxes of the elite.  Emeralds over 3 cts are even rare, available to average
people for thousands of dollars.  An emerald of good quality of any size is valuable, though the price will
go down significantly when the stone is less than 1/2 carat.
In the wholesale gem trade, emeralds are sold on a price per carat basis.  Therefore, it would make sense
that a 3 carat emerald would cost more than a 1 carat emerald, all else being equal.  However, an
aditional factor is that it is rarer to find a 3 carat emerald than a 1 carat emerald.  Therefore, not only is
the total price higher, but the price per carat is also higher because of the added rarity factor.

For example, a 1 carat emerald of excellent quality might cost $1000.  A 3 carat emerald of the same
quality would NOT cost $3000 (3 X 1), rather it might cost $8000.

Emerald Cut

How Cut Affects the Value of Emerald

A well cut emerald is an emerald that sparkles and glows to its maximum ability. Perfect cut is not quite as
important for emerald as it is for most gemstones, because emerald is valued for its depth of color mostly,
and is often too included to sparkle anyway. The shape “emerald cut” which is popular now for diamonds
as well as other gemstones was in fact originally created for emerald. This cut was used for cutting
emerald because it emphasizes color instead of sparkle. However, it is still important to know the
difference between a good and a bad cut, so that when presented with a choice of emeralds, you can
choose a well-cut one. When judging the cut of an emerald, you should look for:

1. “Fish eye”: if the bottom emerald is not cut at the proper angles, you will be able to see through
the emerald rather than seeing light reflected back to you.
2. Uneven facets: especially prounounced in emerald cuts, step cuts, baguette and princess cuts,
which are common among emeralds. These cuts have long straight facets instead of small
trangles and diamonds. A poorly cut emerald of this style will have one end smaller than the other
instead of an even length.
3. Polish: emeralds can be difficult to polish because of the natural structure of the crystal, so twirl
the emerald around, to see that each facet reflects light like a mirror with no rough or dull spots.
Also, emeralds are prone to internal cracks and frissures which can also appear on the surface. If
 you see a any fine rough lines on the surface facets of the emeralds, it is a flaw in the cutting and
you should avoid it as it can make your emerald vulnerable.

Here are some illustrations of how the quality of cut affects the value of emerald.

Terrible Cut: This Poor Cut: This emerald’s
gemstone does not cut is better: there is some
sparkle nor does it sparkle and reflection
reflect light from the around the sides of the
bottom facets. It is a stone. However, we can still
“fish eye”. We can see see straight through it and
straight through it. the facets overlap: meet at
lines instead of points.
Typical Cut: This cut Perfect Cut: This is a
is similar to what perfectly, beautifully cut
exists in most jewelry: emerald. The lights play
there is some sparkle and reflect from every
but the facets are facet. We cannot see
uneven. through it: we only see
sparkle.

Treatments and Synthetics

Emerald Treatments

Almost every emerald available on the market has been treated to improve its clarity.  Because emeralds
are naturally full of cracks and fissures which make it more opaque and less attractive, it has become an
industry standard to fill the cracks in emerald, thereby improving its clarity.  Traditional fillers are natural
oils such as cedar oil.  Over many decades, these oils may fade or “sweat.”  Although they are accepted
and do not make an emerald worth less, there is discussion regarding the permanence of the treatment.
(For a gemstone treatment to not diminish a gemstone’s value, it must be “permanent.”  See General
Gemstone Information.)  Other methods of filling cracks in emerald are bing explored such as waxes,
resins and even glass.  A substance is considered good for filling cracks in emeralds when it reflects light
in a way very similar to emerald, thus making the fillings less noticeable.

While filling cracks is acceptable for improving clarity, sometimes it is also used for improving color.  For
example, green dyed oil is used.  This is generally considered deceptive and it is better to not buy these
“dyed” emeralds.  This can be detected under 10X magnification.

Synthetic Emeralds
In recent years, synthetic emeralds have become very available on the market.  They go by labels such
as “created, “lab,” “synthetic,” “Chatham” (a large producer of Synthetic emeralds).  They are “real”
emeralds in the sense that they are the same mineral, the difference is they were made in a labratory
instead of in the earth.  Synthetic emeralds are usually much clearer than natural emeralds: fewer
inclusions.  It is also possible to find deep attractive colors in synthetic emeralds.  Created emeralds are
more or less about 1/10 the price of natural emeralds with the same characteristics.

Dyed: This may be an
example of an emerald
that has been treated with
dyed oil to improve not
only its clarity but its
color.  The clue is that all
the cracks are the same,
distinct color from the rest
of the stone
Treated Emerald: This is Created: Here is a very Created: A perfectly
an example of an average clear emerald.  Though it clear emerald.  When
quality emerald that has does have some large you see an emerald
been treated by filling inclusions, the absence of this clear (no
cracks with oil or resin.  “milkiness” and the very inclusions at all), you
We cannot tell the bright geen color are hints can be certain that it
difference, and we don’t that it is synthetic.  An is synthetic,
need to because it emerald like this is very
doesn’t hurt the value. rare to find in nature

Emerald Jyotish Symbology and Significance

Emerald or Panna gemstone should be worn especially by teachers diplomats, scientists,

astrologers, architects medical personalities, doctors, businessmen, property dealers, publishers,
accountants, engineers, writers, post officers, insurance officers and intellectuals. Emerald or
Panna gemstone increases reasoning power, presence of mind and spiritual power.

General Characteristics of Mercury: Maternal Uncle, Intelligence, Logic, Mathematics, Humor, Speech,

Skin, Nervous system, Green color,  Emerald and North.

Emerald is known as “the stone of successful love,” providing sensitivity and loyalty to its wearers.  The
symbology and meaning of emerald is also one of mental discernment, giving the ability to make a “right”
choice.  It brings harmony, action and progress.

Emerald Folklore and Mythology

Emeralds have been sacred and prized for over 4000 years.  They were used by priests and rulers of
both Ancient Egypt and Greece. It was beleived to aid in eloquent speaking and in seeing the
truth despite clouded emotions.   Emerald was one of the stones in the breastplate of the High Priest in
the Christian Bible. There was also a beleif that Emeralds were sensitive to sexual energy, as relayed
in this legend : the Hungarian King Bela, who owned a very valuable emerald ring experienced that when
he reached to embrace his new wife, his emerald broke into 3 pieces.  Emerald was also one of the
stones supposedly given to King Soloman which gave him “power over the all creation”

Emerald is the birthstone of May.

Healing Properties of Emerald

Emerald is beneficial in healing the heart, lungs, muscular system and spine.  It can also be used to
soothe the eyes.

Ruby

Rubies are arguably the most precious and valuable of all colored gemstones. Ruby (Manak) is
gemstones of Surya. Rubies have been important in many cultures for thousands of years. Ruby is
characterized by its vibrant shades of red, excellent luster (facets reflect light almost like a mirror), and
hardness (it is difficult to scratch and therefore resilient). Very fine large gemstones of ruby are
exceedingly rare.

6 Things You Should Know Before Buying a Ruby

1. Color: The closer the color is to bright blood red, the more valuable it is. Less valuable rubies can be
dark wine color, or pink. Learn more about How COLOR affects the value of ruby.

2. Carat Weight: The more carats a ruby gemstone is, the more valuable it is.  4 carat ruby with good
color and clarity is valubale. Rubies larger than this a rare and very expensive. Learn more about How
SIZE affects the value of a Ruby.

3. Clarity: Most natural rubies have some cloudiness or imperfections inside: very few are perfectly clear.
Better quality rubies are transparent, not opaque. Learn more about how CLARITY affects the value of
a Ruby.

4. Cut: The quality of a ruby’s cut determines how well it sparkles. Perfectly cut rubies are very valuable
and hard to find. Learn more about how CUT affects the value of ruby.

5. Shape: Oval, Rectangular and square rubies are quite beneficial for astrological purpose.

6. Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations: Almost all rubies are treated to improve their clarity and
color. Heat treatment is standard and widely accepted. The treatement that the ruby receives can affect
its value and quality.In addition, lab created rubies are widely available and are worth much less than
natural rubies. Some dishonest sellers might try to sell you a fake ruby. Read here to learn about ruby
treatments, synthetics and imitations and how to tell the difference.

7. Astrology Significance: Rubies have been sacred to many cultures for centuries. Learn more about
the Jyotish Significance of ruby.

Ruby Color

The color of ruby and how it affects a ruby’s value

Rubies range from dark pink, to near blackish or browninsh red, to bright red, to orangish red. A ruby is
always red.  If it is any other color, it is called a sapphire.  An excellent color can make the difference
between an amazing ruby and an average ruby.  The most valuable color of ruby is familiarly called,
“pigeon blood red.”  It is not the most glamorous name, but the color is one of the most heart stopping
colors found in the gemstone world.

An illustration of how color affects the value of ruby.

Too Dark: This ruby is a Too Light: This ruby is
very dark wine-like almost too pink and pale to
color.  Rubies of this be called a ruby, but
color are fairly common instead a pink sapphire
and less valuable (much less valuable than
ruby)
Too Pink: Here is an Best Color: This ruby
attractive, intense color.  is bright, pure red.  This
However this color is still is the most valuable
a touch pinker than ideal and rare color of ruby.
for a ruby.

Ruby Carat Weight

How the Size of a Ruby Affects its Value

In the wholesale gem trade, rubies are sold on a price per carat basis.  Therefore, it would make sense
that a 5 carat ruby would cost more than a 1 carat ruby, all else being equal.  However, an aditional factor
is that it is rarer to find a 5 carat ruby than a 1 carat ruby.  Therefore, not only is the total price higher, but
the price per carat is also higher because of the added rarity factor.

For example, a 1 carat ruby of excellent quality might cost $1000.  A 5 carat ruby of the same quality
would NOT cost $5000 (5 X 1), rather it might cost $10,000.

Here is a comparison of rubies.  They have similar color, so we can see how their size affects their
value. Note: We are comparing only the main stones, not their settings.

Very small: Rubies of Average: This size ruby Large: Rubies this size Very Large: Rubies of this
this size are not rare.  (about 1 ct.) is more (over 3 carats) are very size (over 7 carats) usually
By themselves, they valuble but still easy to rare.  A stone of this size belong to queens or in
would be worth less find.  It would cost about can cost between 7 and museums.  The price of
than $100. 2 or 3 times the value of 10 times the price of the one would be 2 to 4 times
 the stones to the left. one before. the value of the previous
ruby.

Ruby Clarity

How Clarity Affects the Value of Ruby

It is very rare (nearly unheard of) to find a ruby with natural perfect clarity.  99.9% of rubies are heat
treated or irradiated to improve clarity, diminishing the appearnace of the many inclusions.  The most
common form of inclusion in ruby is white whispy wavy deposits of rutile.

Terrible Clarity: This
ruby is very included: we
can see large white
inclusions inside it and it
has an overall opaque
appearance due to many
small inclusions that
make it cloudy.  Rubies
of this clarity are not
precious and should
never be very expensive
Poor Clarity: This ruby is
not very clear either.  It
has better clarity than the
first though, because
there are no obvious
large inclusions and the
stone is still more
transparent than opaque.  are able to see some light
However, it is not clear
enough to be faceted.
Typical Clarity: A ruby
like this is what is most
commonly available in
jewelry.  It is too cloudy or
included to see completely
into the stone. However, it
is clear enough that we
and sparkle.  A ruby of
this clarity can be valuable
if it is also very large and
of excellent color.
Very Good Clarity: In
a natural ruby, this is
as good as it gets.  A
ruby this clear is very
rare.  It is not perfectly
clear: there are some
visible inclusions, but in
all, the clarity alone
makes this ruby very
valuable.

Ruby Cut

How Cut Affects the Value of Ruby

It is nearly impossible to find a perfectly cut natural ruby in the marketplace.  There are two reasons.  One
is that rubies are very expensive, precious and rare, so there is a hesitancy to cut off any more stone than
absolutely necessary during the faceting process.  The other reason is that ruby forms in the earth’s crust
as octahedral crystals, that are usually wide and flat.  These two facts mean that cut rubies found in
jewelry are usually cut too shallow.  You can sometimes see through them (called “fish eye”), where if it
were cut at the proper angles and proportions, you would only see light and glitter reflected back to you.

A well cut ruby is exceedingly beautiful and hard to find.  You will know a well cut ruby when you see it
because it will dazzle you with its sparkle. This is because when the facets are cut at the proper angles,
they act as mirrors and bounce light all around the inside of the stone.  Unfortunately, cutting a ruby at the
proper angles usually means grinding away a large part of the ruby (a very skilled cutter will cut away
even 80%).  And since rubies are such valuable gemstones, most of the time gemcutters ere on the side
of keeping the gemstone as large as possible, instead of being cut at the proper angles.  When you are
looking for a ruby, you can use the following guidelines to help you assess the cut.  (Though, you should
go in expecting a poor one.)

1. Uneven facets: Rubies are usually given mixed or cushion cuts. Most of them are cut in south
Asian countries by hand without the latest lapidary machines.  Look for some of the facets to be
strangely shaped or for facets which “overlap”, meeting at a line instead of one single point. 
These are signs of a poor cut.
2. “Fish eye”: if the bottom ruby is not cut at the proper angles, you will be able to see through
the ruby rather than seeing light reflected back to you.
3. Dullness: Basically, you can tell how well a ruby is cut by how well it sparkles.  (This can also be
affected by clarity, however)
4. Shallow of Flat Stones: If you are able to see the ruby from the side and it is significantly wider
than it is tall, you are looking at a typical bad cut.

Here are some illustrations of how the quality of cut affects the value of a ruby.

Poor Cut: This is an example of a Typical Cut: This cut is Perfect Cut: This is a perfectly,

“fish eye”.  We can nearly see similar to what exists in most beautifully cut ruby.  The lights play
straight through this ruby instead jewelry: there is some and reflect from every facet.  We
of seeing the sparkle of light sparkle but the facets are cannot see through it: we only see
reflected back to us. uneven. sparkle. Every facet is even and
symetrical.

Treatments and Synthetics

Ruby Treatments

About 99% of rubies on the market are heat treated. Exposing the rubies to extremely high heat
improves the rubies’ clarity and in some cases, color as well. This treatment is so common, it
is worldly accepted by gemologist. There is nothing suspicious at all about a heat treated ruby.

In recent years, more sophisticated treatments have arisen such as glass filling and flux healing. 
Basically, these methods melt out the natural inclusions and fill them with either glass are a kind of
synthesis of the ruby crystal.  This improves clarity as well, though these treatments are more expensive,
more controversial, and less common. (For a gemstone treatment to not diminish a gemstone’s value, it
must be “permanent.”  See General Gemstone Information.)
Synthetic Rubies
In recent years, synthetic rubies have become very available on the market.  They go by labels such as
“created, “lab,” “synthetic,” “Chatham” (a large producer of Synthetic rubies).  They are “real” rubies in the
sense that they are the same mineral, the difference is they were made in a labratory instead of in the
earth.

Synthetic rubies are usually much clearer than natural rubies: fewer inclusions. Synthetic rubies are
cheaper than natural rubies, all other factors being equal.

Heated: This is a very clear natural Created: This ruby is too Untreated: Only a handful of rubies
heat-treated ruby.  Heat treated good to be true: the first sign in the world are untreated.  Large,
rubies are the most common and
range considerably in their levels of
clarity.  Generally, though they are
usually cloudier than man made
rubies.
that it is probably synthetic is clear rubies of good color that are
that it is very clear.  These untreated command extremely high
rubies are less valuable. prices and can only be found in the
most expensive jewelry stores.

Sapphires

Sapphires are one of the most precious, historically important and valuable gemstones. Sapphires come
in every color except for red. (A red sapphire is called a “ruby”) Sapphires are valued for their strong
luster (ability to reflect light like a mirror), and hardness: they are the next hardest stones after diamonds.
This means they can be worn in rings and bracelets for centuries with a low chance of being scratched.

6 Things You Should Know Before Buying a Sapphire

1. Color: The color of a sapphire is one of the strongest determinants of its value. Blue sapphires come in
a range of shades. The brightest,most intense are the most valuable.

Yellow Sapphires, also known as Fancy Sapphires are bright gemstones that range in color from a “Light
Buttery Yellow”, a “Medium Buttery Yellow” or “Light Canary Yellow”, a “Rich Buttery Yellow” or “Canary
Yellow”, to a “Rich Canary Yellow”.

Learn more about How color affects the value of sapphire.

2. Clarity: Clarity is the other most important factor in determining the value of a sapphire. A high quality
sapphire must be free from visible inclusions (internal imperfections). Learn more about How clarity
affects the value of sapphire.

3. Carat Weight: Large, quality sapphires are rare and expensive. For the same color, clarity and cut, the
larger the sapphire, the more valuable it is. See pictures and learn more about How size affects the
value of sapphire.

4. Cut: Most sapphires available in jewelry are quite poorly cut. Perfectly cut sapphires are usually only
available in the finest jewelry and their price reflects a premium. Learn how to tell the difference between
a poor cut and a quality cut before buying your sapphire. Read about how cut affects the value of
sapphire.

5. Shape: Oval, Rectangular and square rubies are quite beneficial for astrological purpose.

6. Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations: Sapphires are often synthesized and immitated by other
substances. In addition, almost all natural sapphires undergo some kind of treatment process. Learn
about these before sapphire shopping. Read here to learn about treatments, synthetics and imitations
of sapphire and how to tell the difference.

7. Astrology Significance: Sapphire has been revered for centuries all over the world. It is rich with
symbolism and special healing properties. Learn more about sapphire Jyotish Significance to see if it”s
something you relate to.
Most Valuable Sapphire
The most valuable sapphire has an intense and beautiful color (cornflower blue and padparascha are the
most valued colors), a perfect cut (very difficult to find in sapphire), a large size (over 3 carats), and good
clarity (sapphires are rarely perfectly clear).

Lower Value: This
sapphire is the least
valuable type of
sapphire. It is cut en
cabochon which shows it
is of inferior clarity. The
color is much too dark
and dull. And it is not
very large (about 1
carat). Such a sapphire
can be bought for under
$50.
Low Value: Sapphires
like this are common in
low range fine jewelry.
The color and clarity are
better than the previous
one. However, the color
is still too dark. It is very
small (about 1/2 carat)
and very poor cut (too
shallow).
Medium Value: This High Value: Sapphires
kind of sapphire is what like this are very hard to
you usually find in fine find, let alone afford. This
jewelry. It is larger than sapphire is extremely
average (about 2 valuable mostly because
carats), of very good of its bright “cornflower
clarity for a sapphire; blue” color and its
the cut is decent and the unusually good clarity. The
color is attractive cut is also good and it is
(though still darker than large (over 5 carats). A
ideal). sapphire like this will cost
several thousands of
dollars.

Here are some more pictures of sapphires with a more detailed analysis.
This is an example of a sapphire of very poor clarity which detracts from its
value: the stone is not transparent and does not reflect light or sparkle. It
does however have an excellent color and it is very large. This stone would
be worth very little if it weren”t for its color.

This sapphire is of very poor clarity : we cannot see into the

stone, nor is any light reflected from the bottom facets. In
addtition, the color is very dark blue: the color that is the most
common and least valuable in blue sapphire. Its poor clarity and
color make this stone very inexpensive.

The sapphire in this ring is very typical of what

you find in most jewelry. Its clarity is good enough
so that we can see the sparkle from the bottom
facets (though there are several large inclusions).
The color is darker than is ideal. The cut is also
not correctly proportioned: some light escapes
through the bottom and the facets are strangely
shaped (the top or “table” facet should be wider to
let in more light.) This sapphire is of good quality,
but nothing exceptional.

This sapphire is a lovely light blue color: probably its most valuable
characteristic. The stone is clear: we can see into most of the stone
and see a sparkle. However there are many large inclusions that
also detract from its value (large fractures toward the bottom and
something brown in the stone to the right). However the worst part
of this stone is its cut. The cut is very sloppy: the facets are uneven
and misproportioned.
 What an amazing sapphire! What makes it amazing is its ideal
blue color. This is commonly called “cornflower blue” and it is
bright and deep. The clarity is not perfect (if you look near the
top you can see the lines and fractures), however natural
sapphires are usually with some inclusions. Plenty of light and
sparkle reach the eyes despite the inclusions. The cut is
slightly disproportionate but not so much that large quantities of
light are lost.

Here is another very high quality blue sapphire. It”s clarity is outstanding
– so clear it looks synthetic. The cut is excellent: facets are even and the
stone is well proportioned. The color is also a very nice blue. If you see a
sapphire like this in your price range, buy it.

An example of a badly cut sapphire. This cut is terrible. The obvious

problem is that the facets are very uneven. The “table” facet (top flat
facet) is unevenly shaped and way too small. It is also a “fish eye”
meaning the stone was cut to be too wide and too shallow, thus
letting light escape through the bottom. We can see through it where
we should see sparkle. Otherwise, the color is okay and the clarity is
good. However the very poor cut of this stone makes it considerably
less valuable.

This is the kind of sapphire we see most commonly in jewelry. The

color is dark; the clarity is poor; the cut of the stone is too wide and
too shallow; and the stone is small. These sapphires are common,
easy to find and should not be expensive, (i.e. a stone for sale for
$20)
 Wow! The color and clarity of this blue sapphire make it one of
the best you could ever buy. The cut is not perfect (facets do
not meet nicely at the corners), but it still sparkles and reflects
light nicely. This stone is exquisite.

As low quality as it gets. These sapphires are very

small and of terrible clarity. They are nearly opaque:
we almost can”t see into them. Their cuts are much
too shallow, almost like faceted disks. And finally,
the color of most of them is so dark, it”s almost
black.

Here is a fine yellow sapphire. It”s greatest asset is its intense yellow color. It
is also fairly clear (only small inclusions). The cut is alright: we see light
reflected and sparkle. However, the facets are irregular and some light
escapes through the very tip. In general, this is a purchase worthy yellow
sapphire.

This yellow sapphire has a rare, beautiful and valuable golden color. Its
clarity is less than ideal: we can see small specks and streaks
throughout the stone. The cut (“princess” shape) is a bit uneven and
sloppy but generally, this is a fine yellow sapphire.
0

Clarity

How Clarity Affects the Value of Sapphire

Sapphires with perfect clarity are very very rare.  Even the highest quality, most expensive sapphires can
usually get away with having some slight inclusion (internal flaw).  The clarity of a sapphire really affects
its value when it is not clear enough to be faceted.  Sapphires of such poor clarity can be heavily clouded
or almost opaque.

Sometimes, inclusions or internal flaws can even add value to a sapphire.  Some sapphires contain
inclusions of another mineral called rutile.  The inclusions form in a special way so that they form a 6
pointed star on the face of the cut cabochon.  A nice blue color with a very well pronounced white star in
the center can be worth much more than a perfectly clear sapphire of the same size.

Very poor Poor clarity: These sapphires are just barely Perfect Clarity: This sapphire has no
clarity: The clear enough to facet.  There are areas inside visible inclusions whatsoever.  Clarity
clarity of this the stone that are transparent, but for the most this perfect is hard to find in a natural
sapphire is so part they are heavily included. sapphire.
poor that it
could not be
faceted.  You
can see that it
is not very
transparent and
light does not
reflect from
inside it.

Carat Weight

How Size Affects the Value of Sapphire

Large sapphires (over 3 carats) are very rare.  Among high quality sapphire, a stone with 3 times
the carat weight of another may be worth 8 times the price.  As with many precious gems, color and
clarity come first, but if those two are high quality, then size makes a big difference.

Small: This is a small sapphire, not Medium : Most sapphires that Huge: This sapphire is a once
too uncommon to find in jewelry.  are the centerpeice of fine jewerly in a lifetime type of stone.  It is
This size sapphire (about 1/4 carat) are between .5 ct and 1.5 carat.  almost 10 carats.  High quality
is never far out of reach.  Even the The highest quality 1.5 carat sapphires over 3 carats can
highest quality sapphire of this size sapphire can cost between $200 cost thousands of dollars.
would cost $50 to $100. and $500.

Cut

How cut affects the value of sapphire

How well a sapphire is cut affects its value and beauty.  A well cut sapphire reflects the maximum amount
of light and dazzles the viewer with sparkle.  A poorly cut sapphire will have uneven facets and will let
light escape rather than reflect.  Note that when it comes to a gemstone’s cut, the quality affects the vale
not the shape.

Because natural sapphire is such a precious material, and it naturally forms in shallow, short crystals, a
cutter will often cut it too shallow rather than cut away valuable material.  This means that most of the
sapphires available are cut in such a way that they are too flat.  A sapphire that is cut too flat (called “fish
eye”) lets light escape though the bottom rather than reflecting it.

Very Poor Cut: We have “fish eye”: This cut is Mediocre cut: There is Excellent cut: The cut of
a slight side view of this better, but still more sparkle in this this sapphire is perfect. 
sapphire gemstone, disappointing.  We see saphire but if you look light is reflected  from
allowing us to see how sparkle around the closely, you will see each facet inside the
shallow it has been cut.  edges, but none in the that the facets are stone and the facets are
This gemstone reflects middle. uneven. neat and even.
very little light.

Blue Sapphire Treatments and Synthetics

Sapphire Treatments, Synthetics and Imitations

Treatments: Almost all sapphire gemstones are treated in labratories.  Most sapphires, when they
are taken from the earth have very poor clarity and tend to have dark dull colors.  Sapphires that
have not been exposed to any kind of treatment but still have good color and clarity are extremely rare
(about 1% of sapphires) and can be very expensive.

Heat: The most common and widely accepted form of treatment is heat treatment. Heat treatments
has been used to improve the appearance of sapphires for a long time.

Diffusion: Diffusion involves exposing the sapphire to chemicals and then very high heat.  This treatment
can dramatically improve the color of a sapphire.  It is also used to artifically put a “star” into sapphire
cabochons.  Often, however, the color doesn’t penetrate into the entire stone.  Diffusion treatment is
not as widely accepted as simple heat treatment because it is seen as less stable. If there are two
sapphires that look identical, one with heat treatment and the other with diffusion, the heat treated
sapphire will be worth more.

Glass filled or flux: This is a treatment used on sapphires to improve their clarity. The inclusions inside
the sapphire gemstone are burned or melted or drilled out and the holes are filled with various crystaline
materials.  This process is expensive and somewhat controversial because it is difficult to detect.

Synthetics: Synthetic sapphires are genuine, real sapphires.  The difference is that these are made by
humans instead of the earth. Sapphires are one of the most widely synthesized gemstones in the world. 
The reason is that natural sapphires are quite expensive and the process for creating sapphires in a
labratory is fairly inexpensive.  Usually jewelry sellers will disclose if a gem is labratory created. 
Otherwise, if you see a very high quality sapphire for too low of a price, you can bet that it is synthetic.

Imitations: Imitation sapphires are other substances, such as glass, blue cz, or synthetic spinel.  Unlike
synthetics, these things are not acutally sapphires.  Selling another material as a “sapphire” is fraudulent. 
You can tell the difference in several ways.
Fake: This “sapphire cz”
is for sale on ebay for
$.99 .  Perfect clarity and
homogenous bright color
make it stand out from
real sapphires.  And, of
course, no one will sell a
real sapphire for $.99
Difusion treated: Heat Treated: There Untreated: This sapphire is
Such a well is a wide range of untreated.  If it were to
pronounced perfectly qualities in heat undergo some kind of
visible white star is treated sapphires.  treatment, its clarity and color
usually the result of This one is a better would be improved.  However,
diffusion treatment. quality sapphire. the lack of treatment provides
us the opportunity to observe
interesting natural inclusions.

Natural sapphire and a treated one

Most (if not all) sapphires and sapphire jewelry seen online and in retail
stores will be described as “natural” sapphires. These natural sapphires
are usually not accompanied with proper disclosure regarding the
treatments that they have undergone. The word “natural” is intended to
identify a sapphire crystal that has come from the ground (not
synthetically created). What is likely to be left out in the description is the
fact that the color and clarity, indicated as “natural”, is really not just
“natural”. In almost all cases the color and clarity of the sapphire will
come from various treatments that you may very well not be aware of.

Yes, a natural sapphire is a sapphire crystal that has been created in the ground – but the color and
clarity (what you are paying for in a sapphire) is created from a heating process that would have never
occurred naturally in the stone that is being shown.

The truth is that almost everything you will see in sapphires anywhere is treated, and treating is not a
simple process. It is a sophisticated procedure that has taken decades to perfect by experienced
enhancement specialists. The stones are not just thrown in an oven and baked like cookies.

Treating and heating a stone is a very involved process that significantly changes the original appearance
(and value) of the rough crystal that came out of the ground. Ultra-high temperature gas furnaces heat
these stones for a period of 3-10 days, at or above the melting point of the crystal (1800°C). Additives
such as glass and coloring agents can be included in the heating process in order to fill in natural cavities
and cracks in the sapphires. Coloring agents are then diffused into the heating process in many cases,
where the coloring of the sapphire is completely and radically altered. Trying to determine what you are
buying is now a scientific research project in most cases.
Obviously, our business is all about the rare and truly natural beauty of “real” sapphires, so of course we
can be a bit too direct when it comes to comparing the differences between a treated sapphire and a
REAL untreated sapphire. We try to be fair, but we find disclosure and education is heavily undermined
by most other companies selling treated stones.

A Natural Untreated sapphire is nothing more and nothing less – it is the stone from the ground as Mother
Nature made it. The color and clarity is just how it came from the earth, all we do is facet it!

Gems Genuine Treatment

99% of Ruby and sapphire  gemstones are heat treated.  Heat treatment is most natural and widely
accepted treatment across the world.

Treatments Summary

 Heat Treatment Ruby, Blue Sapphire and Yellow Sapphire heated at high temperatures to
enhance color. Its genuine treatment accepted across the world.
 Irradiation: It is common to irradiate Aquamarine, London Blue Topaz, Emerald, and Diamond as
well as other gem stones. This treatment brings out color and removes imperfections. Many
dealers know if the gemstones they are selling have been irradiated. Honest ones will tell you if
they are aware of the treatment.
 Diffusion is used to deepen a gem’s color. Diffusion only intensifies a gemstone’s outer layers.
 Oil and waxes Emerald is dipped in petroleum products to bring out color and to seal it and
turquoise is waxed.
 Fracture filling coats gems with a clear or colored epoxy resin or another substance. The
treatment fills-in cracks, which improves the appearance of the gemstone.
 Laser drilling removes inclusions, improving clarity.

Emeralds Oiling Treatment:

Emeralds are typically found with natural internal fissures which are known as “gardens”. Long ago it was
discovered that the simple application of oils would greatly reduce the visibility of these inclusions,
thereby noticeably enhancing the emerald is appearance. This practice has become traditional and is
accepted throughout the precious gem trade. Emeralds are also known to be not quite as durable as
diamond, ruby and sapphire. This fact combined with the common practice of oiling requires the owner to
take a little extra care of their wonderful green gems.

It is also common to oil emeralds to enhance their appearance, usually done as a post-lapidary process in
the country of origin. This is acceptable in the gem industry as long as no coloring agents are used.

Ruby Heating Treatment:

Natural rubies are also treated to enhance its color, clarity and transparency. Most popular treatment is
heat treatment. Natural rubies are costlier than treated rubies. There are some other treatments such as
glass filling and led filling. Glass filling enhances clarity of rubies and led filling enhances both clarity and
color. However, led filling is injurious to health.

Sapphire Heating Treatment:

Yes, a natural sapphire is a sapphire crystal that has been created in the ground – but the color and
clarity (what you are paying for in a sapphire) is created from a heating process that would have never
occurred naturally in the stone that is being shown.

The truth is that almost everything you will see in sapphires anywhere is treated, and treating is not a
simple process. It is a sophisticated procedure that has taken decades to perfect by experienced
enhancement specialists. The stones are not just thrown in an oven and baked like cookies.

Treating and heating a stone is a very involved process that significantly changes the original appearance
(and value) of the rough crystal that came out of the ground. Ultra-high temperature gas furnaces heat
these stones for a period of 3-10 days, at or above the melting point of the crystal (1800°C). Additives
such as glass and coloring agents can be included in the heating process in order to fill in natural cavities
and cracks in the sapphires. Coloring agents are then diffused into the heating process in many cases,
where the coloring of the sapphire is completely and radically altered. Trying to determine what you are
buying is now a scientific research project in most cases.