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Fx VERLINDEN PUBLICATIONS ae a uu Vitae mas VoI.VIIl - liltstrated| witht overs 60 tal) Nr Foto g raps) Verlinden Publications COPYRIGHT © 2002 By Verlinden Productions, Inc. SET Lone Star Drive (Fallon, MO 63366, Usa, ISBN ; 1.930607-59.8 All rights reserved No pas of this book may be reproduced in any form, stored in a retrieval system o transmitted in any form and. ty any means, be it electronic, mechanical, photocopsing, cr otheraise without the written consent of the publisher Verlinden Publications / Verlinden Productions, Inc. Publiched and distributed by Verlinden Productions, Inc. BIL Lone Star Drive Lone Star Inlstril Park (Fallon, MO 63366 USA Project Manager & Chiel Eitor Francois VERLINDEN Photography Frangos VERLINDEN ules otherwise indicated Editorial Sta Frangois VERLINDEN Chatlle PRITCHETT at COONEY Printd inthe USA, THE BASE, I started by laying out the figures, vehicle, and ruin on my work bench, then using a ruler I arranged and rearranged my idea until | got the right size for the base. Alter cutting a 6 1/2” x 6 1/2” piece of 5/8” plywood, I glued a pre-cut section of a VP embank: ment wall, then filed in the back corners with styrofoam. Next, a section of VP city house ruin was made from parts let over from 2 previous diorama, This was then glued down on top of the embankment wall to give height for the background of the diorama. | ‘lso cut a section of railroad track to fit the angles of the base. This was ghied down and filled in with railroad ballast. Finally, a small section of styrofoam was cut & glued, then covered with a thin layer of plaster and scribed to simulate a concrete section. I also added a small section of staitcase and an electric pole, then covered everything with debris made from small rocks and sand. This ‘was then covered with diluted white alue and set aside to drv. For painting, | airbrushed all of the brick areas with Tamiva Red Brown and the concrete areas with Tamiya Buif, then washed and weathered everything with oils and pastels, RSO/PAK 40 T built this one straight from the box with the only additions being some extra nuts and bolts and tie-downs to add a little more detail Talso added a new set of tracks from Friulmodel. Since I've always liked the 2 colored look of some late war vehicles, I decided tc use a mix of Tamiya Olive Green and Field Gray for the base colors on the chassis, with a light and random camouflage using Tamiva Dark Yellow. For the PAK 40, | started with a base coat of dark Brown, then slowly added dark Yellow and Buff until | was happy ‘with the color. These were both washed and weathered with oils and pastels, then using Silver printer's ink and Raw Umber for a final touch of metalizing. The tracks were airbrushed with Tamiya Red then dusted with pastels The different colors of the RSO and PaK 10 add much interest and help to tell part of the story. Note the over- head electrical contacts for a powered streetcar. 4 FIGURES. All the figures are VP, slightly converted to get the pose I was soking for. The paratrooper standing on the ledge is from the VP Fallschirmjager MG team with a left arm from the spare parts, box and a new VP head. The 2 in the RSO are from VP German Paras Gun/Mortar Crew with a slightly adjusted pose to fit bet ter. The paratrooper kneeling is from the VP Fallschirmjager Assault with a right arm and head from the parts hox All were painted using Tamiya, Polly Scale, and Model Master paints, All lesh tones were painted in oils. The VP German gun/mortar crew lends itself perfectly toa scene such as thi KITS USED: Friulmodel ATL 29 Italeri 355 Steyr RSO w/PAK 40 VP 0577 75mm German PAK Ammo VP 1404 City House Front YP 1546 River Embankment VP 1766 Fallschirmjager Assault VP 1767 Fallschirmjager MG Team VP 1812 German Paras Gun/Mortar The Steyr RSO with PaK 40 was marily used as an ambush weapon, and has been depicted in that role this effective scene. The separate elements of the base can clearly be discerned, superbly utilized to create this striking com- position. DIE BRUCKE (THE BRIDGE) By VP Studios During the German invasion of Russia, the retreating Soviets, burned, blew-up, or otherwise destroyed as many resources as possible that might become advantageous to the Germans. With hundreds of bridges blown, German jineers quickly ran out of bridging equipment, so tt ted to make use of the abundant timber resources Russia, Wartime photographs show lols of different wooden constructions, of which dhis kit is a good 7 jompact dioramas are fun, easy, and fast. We at VP realize that most modelers don't have the time, space, or money’ to crank-out diorama bases for every model they build, so wwe fry all the time to accommodate the modeler with such limit- ed space of abilities by releasing a diverse range of ready-made diorama bases. ‘The diorama here uses VP #1724 The Bridge, which consists of 2 embankments and a section of a makeshilt German bridge “The bridge section is also available separately (#1725), enabling, the modeler to construct a bridge as long as desired (we are working on that one, check our next book! ‘The completed Diorama base. Most German soft skins, half-tracks, and light tanks up to PzKpfw.IIl should fit this base. For simulating frost, light snow, or ice, a light overspray of 3M spray adhesive works very well. The river surface was base-coated a dirty Olive Green. Next, a coat of Humbrol clear glose wae poured all ‘over, and pieces of plastic sheet were cut into pieces and dropped into the wet varnish. After overnight drying, a very thin wash of matt 29 Dark Earth + white was applied to tone down the contrast, and a sec- ‘ond coat of clear gloss was poured ‘The assembled and painted contents of the VP kit. Since the resin is already a nice gray-green color, which is an excellent base color, no base color was applied. All “wood” was washed with Humbrol matt 29 Dark Earth + Black, carefully wiped with a clean, soft rag. After dry, light dry brush runs were carried out with matt 72 Khaki ind light Sand. The darker shades were brushed in with Raw Umber oils. A closer look at the spray adhesive. The diorama was placed on the floor and sprayed with adhesive from about 2-3 feet directly above the diorama. After this, a long drying time was required because the stuff remains tacky for quite a while. FIELD REPAIRS (AT LUNCHTIME) By VP Studios ‘compartment. In order to create a mote involved repair scene, the tale M32 recovery vehicle was incorporated along with various figures & acces sories from VP. After the various elements were chosen forthe scene, they were layed-out onto a piece of plywood to determine the final size of the base T: idea for this dorama is focused around the Academy M12 withthe VP Detail Set installed, which offers a view into the normally closed engine The base was cut to size and a section of polyloam was fited to the corner, where a section of VP Cobblestone Street was cut to it. The assembled base received a layer of Porion tle grout to form the basis forthe groundwork. While the Porion was stil sot, the vehicles, figures, and accessories were pressed in to preserve ther postions on the finished base. These were all carefull removed before sprinkling VP Static Grass overall, and the base was set asi to dry overnight, Tama acryle paints were mixed to color the earth in gradually lighter shades. The cobblestone street was painted wath Raw Umb Model Masters enamel and wiped-off with @ doth, kaving the darker colors inthe recesses. A piece of Scotchbrite was then used to polish the cobble stones, which served to highlight the raised areas. Woodland Scenics Fine Leaf Foliage was used to create the hedges, and an Italeri Telegraph pole was inserted into a hole died for it. When all was finished, all of the vehicles, figures, and accessories were simply placed into their previous postions The overall lavout of the scene is fairly simple but adequately busv. Evervthina fits perfectlv into it's place. and has a relationship with the other elements of the composition. 12 ‘These figure sets are ideal for simulating a time of relaxation, hile at the same time giving them something to do, When you gotta go, you gotta go! At least they don't have to relieve themselves in their helmets inside of their tanks, as was often the case. ‘The VP M12 Detail Set allows you to display the radial battery, and crew compartment. It alzo provides extra details for the gun & fighting compartment. 13 all mechan many damaged or broken-down vehicles would have to be left behind or even destroyed to prevent capture by the food are well stocked with sage, along with the local vintage. tems Use: ademy #1394 M12. 185mm Gun Motor Hales Wt Vehicle eri ph Pole Hi CRetions All other figures & accessories VI 16 The 155mm M12 was a valuable weapon in the Allied arsenal in Europe, particularly along the Siegfred Line, where it’s massive firepower was able to penetrate as much as 7 feet of concrete on the numerous pillboxes and bunkers, This is the contents of the basic VP kit after assembled & painted. ‘The bridge was built & painted in subassemblies before installing Freee ere ad orcs See Cote nnn urs The finished bridge is ready to support the yen was bull & painted straight from the Fea arenes i eee ‘The Flak 43 is locked & loaded in position in case of urgency. 't appear to be concerned about an jging by their casual postures. The Mobelwagen mounted the 37mm Flak 43, a potent weapon against aircraft as well as soft targets on the ground. During transport the side panels were folded up. 3s used i #312 Kubelwag x #4047 a #35237 German Self Propelled AA Gun Mabelwagen Scenics Fine Al other Figures & Accessories VP The Italeri Kiibelwagen nicely fills the empty space in front of the Mabelwagen, also giving some of the other figures a reason being there. oy < S O a ““Yyurchbruch” (Breakthrough) 58cm RW 61 on assault mortar “Sturmtiger” By Robert Doepp ne of my very first armor model kits-it must have been in the mid- Seventies- was the 1:32 scale Monogram kit of the assaul tank 43 “Brummbar". As then was usual with Monogram models, the kit inclided an insert featuring an article & photos of ‘diorama which had been created with this kit by Sheperd Paine. Since then I have been fascinated by that piece of work Whenever I was building a model I contemplated the folder again and again, and by now it has assumed quite a pitiful After such a long time I decided to try myself at the same piece as Sheperd Paine did. Although I intended to simulate the general layout, | stil did not want to pro- duce a mere copy of the original. but rather to offer something like my own interpretation. Apart from choosing the more powerful ‘Sturmtiger’ as the main subject, I was going to change at least two things:'I wanted the tracks & roadwheels of the Panzer to conform to the rubble, 1nd I wanted to recreate a house built from bricks. These two elements demanded a considerable amount of work, as I was to discover later. In order to achieve my goal, Twas going to make full use of the various possibilities offered by the present model aftermarket, which had not yet been avail able to Sheperd Paine thirly years ago such as separate track links, super detail sets, special diorama accessories, etc.) STURMTIGER The Sturmtiger model was upgraded by the super detail photo-etched sets from Aber. This time I used Aber's sets for the fenders, as the thin metal parts made it easier to simulate damage caused by breaking through the building. Another important detail to be added was the pair cf tow cables, which were fitted into the front towing ‘eyes to protect the front fenders. | wanted them to look warped but rot entirely destroyed. Since the Tamiya kit does not contain tow cables, | ha scrateh-build them by cutting the eyes out of a piece of plastic sheet and bending a thin wire around them, finally inserting the ends of the cables into a drilled piece of plastic rod. The Tamiya Sturmtiger has been extensively detailed with epoxy putty and photo-etched & plastic parts. Note the scratch-built p gling from the side. Also of interest is the reali age to the sheet-metal side skirts and the articulated roadwheels. 27 ‘The Sturmtiger ic completely painted & weathered, waiting to be attached to the base. All of the intricate detail- ing has paid-off with a fine finish! 28 Although I did not detail the interior of the Sturmtiger because it would be almost invisible in the planned diorama, I kept the super: structure separate from the hull all throughout the painting process, so | could add a few visible details afterwards. A simple con. struction from plastic sheet rendered possible attaching both parts separately, which proved particularly helpful for the final adjust ment of the heavy metal tracks. I invested a lot of effort into a number of details, such as the damaged front lamp, the pistol port's plug dangling down the side of the hull, and the folded ammo crane on the engine deck. The rifling inside the barrel of the 38cm mortar was made from plastic sheet, since cementing the provided Aber part into the barrel seemed simply impossible to me, The zimmerit paste was applied with putty using the special zimmerit tool from Tamiya. The surface structure of the armor plates and particularly the coarse surface of the barrel, which was actually cast as one piece with the gun mantlet, were achieved by using a ballshaped drill bit. The weld seams lacking on the Tamiya kit were reproduced from thinned putty. The eyes of the Friulmodel track links were drilled-out to 0.9mm and connected by bolts made from 0.75mm Evergreen plastic rod instead of the wire included in the kit. So, the tracks get a better guide, and on the inner side a proper fit of the track pins can be achieved. The edges of the track links have to be treated to make them join more tightly, otherwise they will not fit the drive sprock- ts. All together this means some tedious work, which however pays off by allowing the tracks to be easily adjusted after painting, The correct tension of the tracks can be achieved by attaching the idler wheels just at the very end of the procedure. In order to rep- resent the motion of the roadwheels over the rubble, I had to fix the positions of the swing-arms after the groundwork had been fin: ished, 50 | had to proceed to the base before finishing the tank. 4 ‘The rough build-up of the house. Individual bricks of styrene were cemented to the outer walls. “ Here we can see the additional window sills and bricks added to the basic structure. THE BASE originally intended to at first only work out the rough structures of the building and the groundwork, but gradually realized that | had to finish a substantial part of the work at this stage if I want: ed to avoid unpleasant surprises later. First I applied a piece of street with sidewalk made from various casted plaster parts to the chip-board and plywood baseplate. In order to compensate the difference of levels with respect to the plaster parts, | supple mented the base of the house by a construction from balsa wood In doing so, [fixed as precisely a3 possible where the walls of the building would be later. After painting the base color, all of the balsa wood and styrene detail parts are added to the house. My basic idea was that the Sturmtiger would have broken through the facade of the house that had already been partly destroyed. To make the not very heavy damage to the Panzer appear plausible, large pieces of the wall would simply have fal: en to the front, and the Sturmtiger would be moving over them. In order to fix the shape that the roadwheels were to assume later, [needed at least these pieces including the additional bricks broken out of the front wall. To cover the transition from the wall to the ground, rubble and bricks should lie around just up to the in was possible only if I would give the facade it's, cut the shape of the front wall out of 0.5mm plas ind determined the shapes of the breakthrough. Between two halves of the wall I glued strips of 10mm balsa wood. No later than at this stage should the figures be fit into place, to be safe from later surprises. The edges of the breakthrough, the broker-out pieces lying around, and a shell hit in the upper story were all made in the same way as the wall itself, but this time I used 8mm balsa strips Tut the edges into the shape of broken walls and then glued nar- row strips of 0.4mm & 0.25mm plastic sheet onto them to sim. llate individual bricks. The outer edges of the wall | closed with small pieces of balsa wood, That way I got brick wall sections Which fit perfectly into the gap of the basic structure. The other two walls I did in the same way; the non-carrying inside wall is thinner because it consists of only two layers of brick instead of three like the facade so I used &mm and 6mm strips of balsa wood. Alter attaching the window sills, a step in front of the entranc door, and the baseplate of the litle balcony in the upper story. the building was covered step-by-step with a coat of plaster, from vhich the outer texture could be shaped. Plastic strips were used as bases for the door and the window frames, so these would not have to be glued to the delicate plaster. Afterall this had received a protective layer of enamel I could at last continue with the shaping of the ground, For that purpose | greased the lower end Of the building and fixed it provisionally to the base with Humbrol Maskol (which is actually @ sticking solution), 30 The base color of the facade is added next, giving the firet hint of the final colore. The interior walls were painted in different colors on each story. The floors have been built separately to sim plify painting, to the grease the building could be removed after | had fixed pieces of debris, bricks, and rubble to the baseplate with white Thus, after all I reached the target of being able to finish the running gear of the Sturmtiger. One of the p 2s to fix the panes to windows, frames, and doors after everything had been painted, Therel made slight from 0.25mm plastic sheet for all pars, into which window panes were to be inserted later, sides, Th ot small gaps precisely 0.25mm wide, info which later transparent plas inserted The interior components were painted separately before installing into the shell of the house. The scratch-built floor sections are extremely realistic, supporting the various debris and VP furniture acces- aracteristic wooden. structure Alidiona is ecpie reacts eas Gare ‘age to parts broken off or splitup by impacts. Even the floors of the bull sre made from balsa wood b nally fixing t Maskol to the walls and then gluing planks from strips of thin balsa wood to them, This allowed these parts to be attached without dificulty after painting PAINTING. Painting the Sturmti ly to the Tiger I describe Military Dioramas Vol a wash with thinned dividual color re dry brushed separately, In c hieve a dusty look, [used Humbrol matt 119 Light Earth for light th the dark Green and the dark Brown colors (the mixture of Re 84 da and Revel matt 37 Brick Red) 32 After the rough groundwork was made, the suspension of the Sturmtiger could be positioned to conform to the contours of the base. The figures were all slightly modified to represent Wehrmacht soldiers. ‘These close-ups really show-off the painting skills of this talented modeler. 33 Both colors were finished with a slight touch of Humbrol matt 119 and at least Revell matt 17. The light Sand colored areas were dry brushed with Revell matt 89 as well. In order to imitate scratches and chipped paint, this time I not only used the usual mixture of Humbrol Silver and Raw Umber oil paint, but additionally a very soft pencil and a silver pen, which allows drawing very fine lines The front of the building was airbrushed with a mixture of Humbrol matt 119 and Revel matt 17, before applying a ‘cloud pattern of Revell matt 17. All colors for the inside surfaces were toned down with Humbrol matt 29 and also over-sprayed with a very faint cloud pattern of Revell matt 17 in order to give them a dusty appearance. The brick sections were painted with a mixture of Revell matt 37 and Humbrol matt 100 Red Brown, and then dry-brushed with Humbrol matt 100 and Revell matt 85 Brown as well as Revell matt 17 and Revell mat 89. All wooden parts I painted with various mixtures of Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, Gold Ochre, and Naples Yellow Light oils, mixed to a lighter and darker tone, so the wood grain could be imitated by applying a wet-on-wet technique. Another key problem was how to attach bricks and rubble to the Panzer and the wooden floors of the building, since I had to treat them similarly to those lying on the ground, in order to achieve a homogenous appearance. The ground could be given a wash and dry-brush without difficulty, because everything was perfectly fixed. On the Panzer and the wooden floors the wash could hardly be applied without damaging the surfaces that had already been painted, so | finally decided to fix everything onto a piece of plasti sheet with Maskol, then spray each individual brick with enamels and matt varnish, and after that apply a wash with water colors. Finally I glued the 410 individual bricks onto the Panzer and the floors with thinned white glue and dry-brushed them afterwards, By this- without doubt extremely time-consuming way- the surfaces underneath remained undamaged. After finishing the building { joined all components and treated several parts carefully with Beige and Reddish pastels to ‘melt’ everything together and make it appear dusty close-up dearly conveys the massive weigh vere made of flimsy balsa wood and plastic. IGURES The postures of the figures were left unchanged. Only the com. ander got the lower ends of his comrade from VP #0978 German StuG Crew: all three received heads provided by liracast. Their uniforms were changed to those worn by Wehrmacht soldiers and super-detailed by adding some seams as well as uniform insignia from Aber and Nimix. They were paint- the same way as those described in VP's “Building Miltary Dioramas Vol. V had never intended comparing my work with Sheperd Paine’s sece of art, but inevitably one finally is doing just that. Much effort I spent on making certain aspects appear more logical than on the original. Besides the aspects | mentioned before (e.g. | Spent a lot of work to imitate a functioning mechanism for the windows). However I was to learn that more ‘logical’ need not necessarily mean optically more convincing oF ‘better. And thus, besides learning many other things while doing this work, I got to know this: never ever compare yourself to Sheperd Paine! 15043 Sturmtiger (38cm RW61 Assault Mortar) Part 1- exterior 35A35 German Soldier's Gear WWI 3543 Fenders and Exhaust Covers for Sturmtiger 35470 German Jerry Can Set (For Tamiya set no, 186) Tamiya 35026 Jerry Cans Set 35177 38cm RW 61 auf Sturmmorser “Sturmtiger 35186 German Fuel Drum Set 35205 German Infantry Equipment Set B (Mid/Late WWII} ee ope eemmeererre Custom Dioramies CD-127 1/35 Brown Brick (2X) Division Models 32011 Kapfsteinpflaster mit Regenrinne 32014 Kopfsteinpflaster “schmall Nimix FT 3 Uniform Insignia (Wehrmacht) Friulmodel ATL-06 Tiger | (middle-Lat Plus Model 053 Street Lamps Set Il Royal Motel 217 German Tanker Headphones (WWI0) Ultracast 35009 German Heads WWI (SS Panzer Crew #1) vp 0012 Newspapers, Posters, Instructions ‘Sheets, Portraits 0888 Kitchen Furniture (0946 Bathroom Furniture 0978 Gorman Stu Crow WWI 1207 “Down the Road” German Tankers 35 AFTERMATH By Greg Cihlar IDEA After building the $8:nm PAK 43 Anti Tank Gun by VP, | knew it had to have a suitable diorama to display it. Noticing how low to the ground it was, I decided to pursue an ambush style scene where ju the barrel of the gun was visible. After experimenting with piles of rubble and tree branches to conceal the gun, I decid ed to use a knocked-out vehicle, but would ‘need something with a low back-end as the gun is so low'o the ground. I first tried a Jeep, but it looked too small and it lacked the required balance. Then I tried the Italeri wooden cab RSO and it seemed to fit, adding more balance to the gun Next I needed a backdrop to add some height so I decided to make a demolished bridge section from styrofoam and plaster. converted some VP American soldiers to fit a more relaxed and curious look, then | added a dead German, also from VP, to give a focal point to the story. BASE started with a 9” x 9 5/8” piece of ply wood. Using wood glue, | glued 3 pieces of 1 1/2” styrofoam together, and then after this dried, I started carving using a razor blade, X’acto knife, and 120 grit sandpaper until | achieved the right shape & size for the bridge that I was looking for I then applied 2 thin coats of easy sanding plaster and allowed it to dry overnigh The RSO provides a clever position for the PAK 43 to ambush from. The gun is invisible behind the RSO, and the bed of the RSO provides a'con- venient storage space for the extra ammo for the gun. 38 After everything was dry, | serbed e brick pattern into a small section and a concrete pattern to the rest. The road section of the bridge was then covered with white glue and line sand sprinkled on top to give dirt texture. Next I sprayed the ent bridge section with a mixture of Brow and Gray Tamiya paint gradually lighten ing with Buff as T went on, The brick color is straight Tamiya Red Brown. Everything was then washed heavily with Raw Umber, Raw Sienna, and Black oil paints until a’ very dingy and washed-out look was achieved. I then dry-brushed_ the brick areas with Dark Red and White oils, The concrete areas were dry-brushed with Payn Gray and White oils. Then all joints ‘and comers were dusted with pastels. A VP cobblestone brick section was then ‘added for the road along with miscella neous small roots and some okd VP trees for the landscaping. The highly detailed PAK 43 from VP is very easy to assemble, and pro- 1g- Only the muzzle of the PAK 43 is visible, Note the realistically rusted metal tracks from Friulmodel. 88MM PAK 43 ANTE-TANK GUN ted building the VP PAK 43 antici ing a lengthy and complicated process f aluing a lot of very tiny resin parts ngether and endless test fitting On the contrary, this kit goes together very well After deciding on the angie of the barrel, I glued the gun to the frame/base and start fed painting. | sprayed everything with a ight coat of autobody primer to seal the photo-etched shield. Alter that dried, 1 ised a mix of Tamiya Khaki Drab and Red Brown to spray the basecoat. Next I added some dark Yellow and started spraying from the centers of the shield sections slowly fading outward in a cloud pattern intl a worn and dingy look was achioued I then added a litle Desert Yellow and ave everything a mist coat, particularly .@ upper sections. The ‘barrel was sprayed with a heavily thinned coat of Khaki Drab and gray to look like a replacement barrel. I weathered it using Raw Umber and Burnt a oils then gave everything the metallizing treatment by dry-bnushing a mixture of Silver print er’s ink mixed with Raw Umber artists ils, VOODEN CAB RSO I chose the Italeri RSO for it's low rear end and the fact that I could have a ripped can fas cover to add more realism and a place that I could slide the barrel of the PAK 43 through for an ambush look, The RSO This grouping of figures is a perfect way to tell this story. The ‘fresh kill’ on the ground provides a point of unity for the GI's, who seem to be discussing the personal gear of their vanquished foe. was built straight from the box with the only additions being the canvas cover made from tissue paper cut to size and then coated 4-5 times with diluted white hue. | gave the entire model a basecoat Using Tamiya Khaki Drab and Red Brown, then a topcoat of Dark Yellow worked up in several thin coals. added a Dark Green camouflage then washed and weathered With oils. The canvas cover was sprayed working from Dark Brown to very thin coats of Deck Tan. The tracks from Friulmodel are fantastic. They go together very easily and since they are metal, they have the perfect sag. | only assembled 1 1/2 sections, then applied two light coats of Metal Affects to rust the tracks. After thoroughly dry (about 1/2 hour), I rolled them up and dipped them into a small cup of the rusting solution. This process was repeated 3 times to get a darker and deep rust appearance. FIGURES. Al figures are VP and are all converted in smnall ways to fit the scene. The dead German was given a new head from the parts box. All uniforms were painted using ‘Tamiya acrylics. All flesh areas were paint ed with artists oils SNIPER By Greg Cihlar IDEA I wanted to do a scene where a Gl was hit by a German sniper and was being tended to from behind the cover of his Jeep. I then decided to ad erman and another figure after seeing a photo of a soldier taking cover and communicating with the tank crew through the phone mounted in a 30 cal. Box attached to the back of a Sherman. RESace cai is aves airing ooemsese toeimappecsason fg? Wisk he firmly unites the tank into the scene. 40 ‘The destroved bridge was scratchbuilt, and provides a perfect backdrop for this scene. The abandoned bicycle on the roof is an effective way to add interest to an empty space without distracti To provide the PAK 43 with suitable cover, a canvas tarpaulin was made from tissue and added (o the otherwise stock Italeri RSO. a4 After the stowage was added to the engine deck, everything was secured with some rope and camo-netting. ‘SHERMAN T built the Tamiya Sherman straight from the box. I decided not to add any update sets because | intended to really dity-up the tank with mud and extra gear. I started the process with a basecoat mix ture of Khaki Drab and Flat Black Tamiva acrulics, then slowly added s ki for some depth. I then gave the entire tank a wet ing Raw Umber and Burnt Sienna oils ter thora ith a mixture of Model Masters Panzer Oli ails. The winter camouflage Tamiya Flat White and Buff, This was given € very streaky wash using the same oils as before, just not as thin. made the mud effect using a mix of fine sand and white ¢ | dabbed it on wer sections of the ularly the road wheels and tracks. This hen lightly sprinkled th static grass. After this dried, it was heavily washed using Raw Umber and Black ¢ ly dry-brushed using Model Master Armor Sand the mud. I foaded on plent from the yan with string The tank provides protection to the soldiers on the ground, and the ground provides protection to the tank. The focal point of this diorama is very dramatic, es} cially with the sniper victim screaming in pain on the ground. built up with styrofoam Photographed in front of a suitable background, the dio- rama comes to life! Again, note the expert weathering job, with mud caked onto the lower hull & running gear. “GOT MILK?” By Greg Cihlar Greg excels in making his ground- work work for him. The elevation along the roadside and the make the whole thi the same time balancing everything out. JEEP gain, the loopy was built put with the aK ichine-gun- mount painting method the winter camouflage se slightly filer to ach id Khaki The Sherman was built straight from the box, but the paint ing set it apart from thick, caked-on mud on the running gear. The foliage at the rear of the BMP not only fills empty space, but also adds to the general composition. panel lines, hatches, nuts & bolts, ete. 1 als ed all open vision blocks with p then painted them a Purple then applied a simulate with Model ind, and finally a very light dry-brushing using a mix of Raw Umber oils and nter’s ink to sim ulate a heavy metal look. For the mud, | mixed and very fine sand, which areas including the Russian Tank Crew WWII with ne from Hornet. The figure standing and from Wamors, tha new head trom Hornet. The figure climbing off the BM from box and a new VP head, Th figure sitting on the back of the turet is half 3m the parts box and hall from Dragon with a new head from Hornet. They were all paint The sleck lines and low profile of the BMP are apparent in this dramatic view. The sloping ground adds a great deal of haracter to this diorama, rather than the imple flat base more commonly with a 9” x 9” piece up with styrofoam and covered with oundwork. This w th small rocks (kitty litte) and sand then washed with diluted white glue. Small and branches were then set ihlighti and Dark Yellow, This was n drybrushed with Model Master's Armor ind with the lower creek-bed area given a of Enviro-Tex Lite to create a muddy mosphere 1P-2E it the BMP straight from the box with the addition being the new gun barre from del Point (very impressive but very @ for a gun barrell. As for paint base coat o mi 2 acrylics, then slowly added Khali Gray until I ad ian Green, Next | washed Umber and Burnt was done a second time on and around all The farm boy and cow add a sense of inva- sion and fear to the atmosphere. Olive Green and Model Master’s Leather. All 2, and the cow is from VP. +; Khali, Khaki Drab, and Dark Yellow, then camouflaged using Po ed using Tamiy. in ols. The farm boy is converted from Custom Dioramics Refuge skin tones were pe KITS USED: Dragon BMP.2E. ‘VP 0303 Russian Tank Crew VP 1618 Bed Rolls, Tentpacks, Kitbags, et Model Point BMP-2 Barrel Hornet Post-War Soviet AFV Padded Helmets Cuctom Dio Warriors F 48, mics Farm Boy dom Fighter Chechnya