Compiled Thematic Areas

Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology
Research Thematic Areas
Produced by: Research Thematic Area Identification Team

First draft
‘Diversified and qualified industry support through problem solving and

transferable research and dissemination!’
2020
I. APPAREL PRODUCTION RESEARCH AND INNOVATION CENTER
THEMATIC AREA
INTRODUCTION
Ethiopia is striving to become one of the middle-income countries in the year 2025 G.C. The
country has prepared a visionary and ambitious growth and transformation plan (GTP) for
assuring effective export market in the manufacturing sector to become a globally competitive
entity. Among the various pillar sectors under the successive GTP strategy is the manufacturing
sector of which the textile/apparel and leather sector is given the 1 st priority in meeting set goals
and missions. As far as manufacturing sector of the GTP is concerned the pivotal role is expected
from the industries and allied sectors in textile, apparel and leather products. These sectors are
expected to meet the demand in enhancing the export share of the country by enhancing their
productivity and production of high-quality products.
In order for these organizations to become successful in the demand as per the growth and
transformation plan of the nation, a continuous research development and technology up
gradation scheme has to be provided in an organized manner. This includes thematic based
support through research, technology adaptation and development and industry based community
service. Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology is one of the technology institutes
in the country to deliver professional graduates to support the industry and allied organizations.
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology is a pioneer institute of technology under
Bahir Dar University known for multitude of specializations in the discipline inclusive of textile,
garment, fashion, merchandizing and leather both at undergraduate and postgraduate level. To
meet the demands in academic and professional development and produce highly qualified
knowledgeable and skill full graduates the institute is organized in academic and research wing.
The research wing is mainly structured to support industries and enterprises with a problem-
solving research and technology. A special focus is given to link the institute with relevant
industries and enterprises to support each other through research project implementation and
technology transfer. Among the thematic based research organs under EiTEX is Textile
Chemistry Research and Innovation Center (AP-RiC).
Though there are trails in supporting industries though research and dissemination by AP-RiC; it
has been realized based on the discussions with various stake holders at conferences and similar
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meetings that the support to the industry is to minimal and much below the expectations in line
with the GTP. Accordingly a critical survey of the current status of the textile industries has
become a requirement to set up thematic areas for research, technology development and
Industry based community service to meet the set visions and missions of the nation from
manufacturing sector point of view.
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology under Bahir Dar University is among the
ten institutes of technology established with relative governance autonomy under the umbrella of
the respective universities of which Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology is
introduced as one of the technology institutes (IoT’s’) to develop well skilled and knowledgeable
man power in textile, apparel and fashion technology/engineering to meet the demands of the
textile/apparel industries, allied research organizations and the community at large in line with
the economic and professional development plan of the nation.
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology of Bahir Dar University is the only
educational institution offering multidisciplinary programs in relation to textile, leather, apparel
and fashion related disciplines in undergraduate and postgraduate degree programs. The institute
has a history of more than 50 years. Earlier the program was only at the advanced diploma level
particularly when the department was under former Polytechnic Institute.
The textile and apparel industry has advanced rapidly in terms of the technology involved,
materials produced and applications. Keeping these in mind, a B.Sc. program in Textile
Engineering was introduced since 1997. The first batch graduated in 2002. The syllabus for the
program incorporates courses relevant to the modern textile industry. The diploma and degree
graduates occupy almost all the top management positions in the textile factories in Ethiopia and
related industry and other institutions.
The center of research and innovation for apparel production (AP-RiC) is one of the research and
innovation centers in Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology, EiTEX. The center
is established in the year 2011 and is among the four pillar research and innovation centers in
EiTEX. Leather Engineering, fashion design and garment Engineering departments are among
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BSc programs in Apparel research and innovation center. Fashion technology, leather product
design and Engineering, Fashion design also given for MSc programs.
THE NEED FOR IDENTIFYING RESEARCH THEMATIC AREAS
The core values and functional areas of higher education are research, community service and
academic development. Working valuable research is impossible without outreaching the
communities’ problems. Researches done and stored in the shelf also will have not values
without time, money and labor consumption. EiTEX strongly believe by doing practical
researches on the community problems and work on sustainable scientific solution. Since apparel
sectaries are one of prioritized industries by the government of Ethiopia in the growth and
transformation plan, local and international investors are investing huge amounts of money, it is
clear that it can play important role on economic growth of the country, job opportunities for our
citizens and to have international acceptance and world competent potentials.
In the current situation the institute is deemed to assess the current status of the textile industries
and identify potential problems of the industry. Accordingly based on specific specialization and
key interest of the industries well defined thematic area will be designed in effect to involve
students and scholars to actively participate in research, technology development and community
service activities. In so doing and clear preparation of short, medium and longer tem plans it is
expected that the critical problems of the textile industries will be solved as per the requirement.
In enhancement of problem solving research and dissemination the support and integrative work
of EiTEX, industries and relevant governmental and non-governmental organizations, institutes
and ministries will have a pivotal role for the successful implementation.
Supporting those manufacturing companies with scientific researches, innovation and by

introducing new technologies is critically important for sustainability of the growth as well as to
solve the current problems. To contribute the maximum and to play key roles in supporting this
sector EiTEX is working with full potential by organizing yang and senior staffs together. These
thematic areas will have the foundation role for the problems solving journey to be focused on
research work, innovative contributions and community support directions.
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MAJOR RESEARCH THEMES
Based on assessment of the thematic study group to conduct problem-solving and impact-
oriented research and community engagement, a need has been felt to design trans-disciplinary
and integrated research in a thematic approach. Thus, the following major research thematic
areas have been identified, with inclusion of several sub-themes and research areas:
I. LEATHER AND LEATHER PRODUCT RELATED THEMATIC AREAS
Theme 1. Human Resource Management

Sub -Theme 1.1. Manpower skill improvement
Description
This sub-theme mainly focuses on over all skilled manpower development. Supporting this
sector by training, psychological development, improve working habit (culture) and to enhance
the quality and productivity of individual. Generally this thematic areas lead to good working
culture and improving manufacturing capacity of the industries.
This sub-theme also incorporated to research ideas which identifying skill based problems of
workers, working culture, the way to capture the managing, the adaptability to different
production system, design change, and the capability to achieving daily production. Finally, the
research sub theme identifies the skill matrix investigation and skill development strategy for
sustainable employee improvement to achieve what planed as objective.
Aim
The aim of this sub- theme is to enhance the productivity, qualities and sustainability’s of the
leather sector by advanced training, education and research on human development.
Research Areas
1.1.1. Pre and in process skill improvement
1.1.2. Job identification and distribution
1.1.3. Skill assessment and development
1.1.4. Work flow management and information chain
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Sub -Theme 1.2. Industrial policy towards the leather sector
Description
Sub-theme identifies about the industrial policy in raw material and final product as well as the
investor who invest in this sectors. Raw hide and skin marketing means the process of collecting,
processing, transporting, sorting, selling and buying of raw hide and skin. Are advices to process
by government with incentive as show in proclamation? And in this sector investment on product
industries they will incentive with minimum taxation. Sub-theme identifies the policy and
seriously work on the regulation to improve sectors and analysis the gap and weakness between
sectors on the manufacturing and development of leather product.
Aim
The aim of this sub-them is to develop and design well organized strategies and policies that can
support, facilitate the development of the leather and leather product industries. mainly focus on
polices that can be integrate agricultural and leather sectors, chemicals, accessories and spare
part production and governmental support, emphasis on provision of skilled personals, designers
R & D to support the leather sectors.
Research areas:
1.2.1. Policy gap analysis
1.2.2. Leather tannery policy
1.2.3. Leather raw material policy
1.2.4. Leather product developments
1.2.5. Environmental issue
1.2.6. Leather by product(disposal)
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Sub -Theme 1.3. Integration of multidisciplinary research and academic institutions
Description
The sub-theme describes that working in collaboration to get the health animal product that
mainly lead leather sector. So, to improve this input knowing and priorities the activity which
improve the hide/skin quality of animal for leather problem. This collaboration through skill and
manpower interchange as well as job sharing between two or more sectors for sustainable
development of this area. The main activity of this sub-theme is enhancement of the raw
hide/skin productivity and quality by cooperative work.
Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to undertake research on productivity and quality improvement of
animals by product through integrating the agricultural and industrial sector, to find out the exact
problematic areas of the hide and skin.
Research areas
1.2.1. skilled operators for tanneries and product developing companies
1.2.2. animal health and development
1.2.3. animal husbandry and quality
1.2.4. genetics, spices and origin impact on leather quality
1.2.5. Identifying collaboration system
Theme 2. Productivity and Method Study

Sub-theme2.1. Manufacturing systems and strategies
Description
This sub-theme focus on studies, identification and developments of different manufacturing
systems and strategies. Evaluating the current manufacturing system by comparing with the
international bench marking companies, detail studies is required on technology and system
adaptation for the context of Ethiopia. The strategic planning on both human, material and
machine development towards achieving the companies as well as the common country wise
goals. Approaches, management philosophies, believes and attitudes of the company owners for
the long and short run goal achievements. System flexibilities, knowledge on different types of
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manufacturing system, periodical improvements on manufacturing system and strategies to be
responsive for the seasonal and conditional changes of current and future market demand.
Aim
The aims of this sub-them is to design and develop well organized system and strategies that
considers realities of Ethiopian labor, material and space resources utilization to be competent in
the current and future markets of the world.
Research areas
2.1.1. Appropriate Manufacturing system for the specific product
2.1.2. System flexibilities and responsiveness for the current and future needs of the market
2.1.3. Manufacturing strategies for the leather and leather product for Ethiopian contexts.
Theme 3. Marketing and supply chain management in apparel industry.
Sub-theme 3.1. Apparel Marketing

Description
This sub-theme focuses on introducing marketing concepts, strategies, theories and practices of
today’s market to the industry. As we know “customer is the king” the futurity of the business is
on the hand of the customers. So, without customers or clients, there would not be any
businesses so the importance and emphasis will be on how marketing fulfills the needs and wants
of buyers to sustain the viability and growth of the industry. In addition the sub-theme gives a
basic framework for an understanding of the marketing system, and the development of
alternative courses of action for competitive advantage.
Forecasting of the trend of the market, factor influencing the market, the strategic elements
involved in creating a competitive advantage at marketplace, identification of steps involved in
building and evaluating marketing strategy for an industry are is also the target of this sub-theme.
Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to provide a basic framework for an understanding of the marketing
system, developments of alternatives, as well as on the way of fulfilling of the needs and wants
of the customer/buyers to sustain the feasibility and growth of an industry.
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Research areas
1. Forecasting and marketing strategies

2. Market integration
3. Marketing strategies
4. Inefficient marketing strategies in the leather value chain
5. Manufacturing systems and strategies
Sub-theme 3.2. Supply chain management in apparel industry.
Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is by using research based solution; provide a high quality service
with a low- acceptable cost to achieve high customer satisfaction.
Description
This sub-theme focuses on studies related to on the concepts, processes, and strategies used in
the development and management of global supply chains. SUPPLY CHAIN consists of the
series of activities and organizations that materials move through on their journey from initial
suppliers to final customers. A systems approach to managing the entire flow of information,
materials, and services from raw material suppliers through factories and warehouses to the final
end-customer is called supply chain management.
This theme also focus on the identification of the driver and restrain force of supply chain, the
way of developing and managing effective and efficient global supply chain, and investigate the
supply chain culture of the country and the industry.
Research areas
3.2.1. Communication among value chain partners

3.2.2. Supply chain integration of raw hide and skin suppliers with other value chain
partners
3.2.3. Competitiveness of logistic services
3.2.4. Leather accessory supply
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3.2.5. Leather chemicals supply
3.2.6. Logistics and supply chain
3.2.7. Loose integration of Leather Engineering with animal science departments
3.2.8. Loose integration among raw hide and skin suppliers with other value chain
partners
3.2.9. poor logistics service and longer lead time
Theme 4 Quality Management

Sub-them 4.1. Quality culture
This sub -theme focused on identifying of quality cultures, physical and conditional problems
that become cause of less quality products. Habits, believes and attitudes of workers, supervisors,
middle and higher management and company owners towards product quality. Quality strategies,
quality philosophies, quality management, quality control, quality assurance trends in the leather
and leather product industries. Why Ethiopian products are considered as less quality, less brand
images for local and international customers. Investments costs, tools and advanced technologies
towards achieving qualities. Societies work culture, economic and health condition impacts on
quality improvements. Skill matrix, worker development strategies, product testing, quality
professionals in specific companies. This theme also will deal about impacts of working
environment on product quality like working condition, cleaning cultures of the companies,
providing appropriate resources for keeping hinges of working areas.
Aim
The aim of this Sub-theme is to provide techniques on how to improve quality and utilization of
materials. How can be worldwide competent by raw material, semi-finished and finished
products of the leather sector.
Research Area
4.1.1. Quality system development for leather and leather product sectors
4.1.2. Nondestructive test mechanism for leather sector.
4.1.3. Design and development skiving, splitting and leather cutting machineries.
4.1.4. Impacts of long stage of production (A to Z) on product quality
4.1.5. standardization of hides and skins based on their location
4.1.6. Quality metrics for finished leather
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4.1.7. Good quality practices in leather and leather product industries
4.1.8. Identifying the root sources of leather that found in the defect forms of leather
product production.
Sub-them 4.2. Footwear Sizing standard chart development
Description
This sub -theme focused on the development of sizing standards, size measuring and data
generating applications. Based on Ethiopian context, there is no published and legalized size data
for all age groups of peoples. Using the other countries size information, approximation,
selecting the nearest size from developed countries anthropometric data is one of time
consuming activities, it may also be reason to have less brand images on the local products. Even
the system, the trend, skills and knowledge to develop standardized test will have good impact to
be competent in the international market.
Aim
The aim of this sub-them is to provide support on developments of appropriate, size wise, age
wise product for the countries as well as for world market. To have will organized size data for
local and world investors, to keep recorded data for future generation.
Research areas
4.2.1. Size chart development for Ethiopian women’s, men’s children’s for shoes, garment
upper and lower torso.
4.2.2. Software development for size development, conversion, body scanning and digital
characterization.
4.2.3. Pattern making and characterizing of Ethiopian foot and body size.
Sub-them 4.3. Accessibility and quality of shoe bottom components
Description
From shoe bottom various layers are used; soles (insole, midsole, and an outsole). The insole is
the interior bottom of a shoe, which sits directly beneath the foot under the Foot bed (also known
as sock liner). This sub- theme is described these material availability and their quality standard
aspect in each shoe industries. Since each industry are doesn’t compute with other global
companies because of less quality of such materials. Mainly this material is found from imported
so, it becomes strong challenge on foreign currencies on manufacturing of footwear.
Aim
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The aim of this sub-theme is improve the durability, aesthetics, conformance, performances of
shoe bottom component materials. To enhance the researchers and manufactures on production
of good quality bottom component materials from local and easily available or producible
materials.
Research areas
4.3.1. Shoe bottom material from blend or composition of different materials
4.3.2. Health and safety related studies on shoe bottom materials
4.3.3. Technological support on shoe bottom component production machineries like insole
molding, di-cut and arm clicker and other advanced machineries.
Theme 5. Company Wise Research and Sustainable Development Strategies as One of

Manufacturing Department
Sub-theme 5.1. R&D towards new products
Description
This sub-theme mainly focus on the developmental impacts of having research and development
centers for each leather and leather product industries. Integrated manufacturing that can be
supported with market researches, having compiled previous data’s, having forecasted data’s
with appropriate professionals, providing fashionable and timely demands of customers,
providing alternative materials that can be re-engineering, innovated, from waste characterization
or from any source that the researcher will work on it. Method or System development on how
the researcher work with all departments in the companies. R&D impacts on current problems of
the companies, how the companies can be supported with the center from Ethiopian context for
enterprise, medium and large size manufacturing companies.
Aim
The aim of this sub-them is support the industries by new product design, by new findings of the
previous manufacturing problems, providing advanced technologies in each manufacturing
process, providing advanced, low cost, easily available and good quality materials.
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Research areas
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5.1.1. concern on R&D towards new products development
5.1.2. liquid and solid waste management system
5.1.3. Integration of Leather Engineering with animal science departments
5.1.4. Research on market analyses, customer feedback, product life cycle, value
addition program, material blend and composition, supplier analyses, market
forecasting.
GARMENT INDUSTRY RELATED THEMATIC AREAS
Theme 1.Human resource management related problems
Sub-theme 1.1 High labor turnover and operator absenteeism
Description
The main focus of this sub-them is on the development of skilled manpower and attitud, training
and labor management strategies; develop incentivized productivity improvement techniques,
efficient utilization of labors. Development of company wise sustainable labor development
strategies, skill matrix formulation to control and make flexible production lines. Advanced and
digitalized labor management system. Garment manufacturing mainly known by labor intensive
and head consuming operations, this research areas will initiate innovators who will work on
automation of sewing, cutting and finishing of garment manufacturing.
Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to support and facilitate skill development, to increase
productivities and efficiencies of apparel manufacturing industries. To initiate innovators on
semi-or fully automation production systems in apparel manufacturing. To develop standardized
incentive system that can motivate workers, increase productivities and reduce unnecessary costs
of the companies.
Research areas
1.1. Reduce labor turnover and operator absenteeism by developing standardized

management system
1.2. Development of incentivized system in apparel industries
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1.3. Design and developments of semi-and fully automatic machineries for material
handling, cutting, spreading and sewing operations
1.4. Design and developments of software for marker making, for labor management
and control, for mechanization of old machineries.
1.5. Skill matrix development for specific manufacturing companies
Theme 2 Productivity and Method Study
Sub-theme 2.1 Manufacturing systems and strategies
Description
This sub-theme focus on studies, identification and developments of different manufacturing

systems and strategies. Evaluating the current manufacturing system by comparing with the
international bench marking companies, detail studies is required on technology and system
adaptation for the context of Ethiopia. The strategic planning on both human, material and
machine development towards achieving the companies as well as the common country wise
goals. Approaches, management philosophies, believes and attitudes of company owners for the
long and short run goal achievements. System flexibilities, knowledge on different types of
manufacturing system, periodical improvements on manufacturing system and strategies to be
responsive for the seasonal and conditional changes of current and future market demand.
Aim
The aim of this sub-them is design and develop well organized system and strategies that
considers realities of Ethiopian labor, material and space resources utilization to be competent in
the current and future fashion and clothing markets of the world.
Research areas
2.1.1. Manufacturing System flexibilities and responsiveness for the current and future needs
of the market
2.1.2. Just in time, lean manufacturing and other production strategy adoptions
2.1.3. Product, materials and manufacturing system strategic forecasting for sustainable
developments of the garment and apparel sectors
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2.1.4. Manufacturing Strategies for small, medium and large size apparel manufacturing
companies based on Ethiopian contexts.
2.1.5. Operator skill matrix and performance evaluation systems
Theme 3.Quality Management
Sub-theme3.1. Quality culture in garment manufacturing industries
Description
The main focus of this sub-them is to support industries towards the developments of good
quality culture, to have ownership values through the companies, on how to give the highest
values for product qualities. To create understanding on controlling of costs of poor quality,
quality awards, quality improvement techniques, quality audits in garment manufacturing. To
stay in the market, to have influential brand images and worldwide acceptance the companies
must to have good quality management, good quality culture in all societies of the company. The
most influential companies in the world have their own quality secrets; it may be from especial
offers for good quality achievers, yearly or seasonal quality awards. The development of quality
culture will not be much effective by the efforts of same people, managers or departments but it
inquires the whole societies of the industry. Attitudinal change for the quality concept, quality
management, system development, implementation and accreditation of different world accepted
standards, reduction of costs of quality with increasing of product quality.
Aim
The main aim of this sub-theme is to support industries and economy of the country by
developing appropriate quality system for Ethiopian context, system development to create good
quality culture in the manufacturing society.
Research areas
3.1.1. Quality philosophy and its effect on competitiveness

3.1.2. Development of good Quality culture in manufacturing society
3.1.3. Quality accreditation system for garment manufacturing industries
3.1.4. Brand management and customer handling with system, product and process inspection.
3.1.5. Reduction of costs of quality, without affecting product quality
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Sub-theme3.2. machine maintenance and accessory supply
Description
The main focuses of this sub-theme is to support manufacturing companies how to work on
preventive maintenance to improve product quality, maintenance system in garment
manufacturing, scheduled and unscheduled maintenance impact on product quality. Reactive
maintenance always arrives after loss of time, material, energy and money. Design and
development of maintenance schedule for garment industries based on Ethiopian context,
innovation on different work aids that can help on accuracy of production. Information
technology integration for man machine control, innovative work on easily machine operation,
digitalized machine control mechanism, digital alarm technology on machineries entire
functionalities are the main focusing areas to work on machineries problem impacts on product
quality.
Aim
The main aims of this sub-theme is to support industries and local and national economy by
study on appropriate maintenance techniques for garment industrial machineries. To create
initiation on maintenance accessory production, system development, information system
integration for machine control, digital sensors for machineries functionality.
Research areas
3.2.1. Maintenance scheduling mechanism
3.2.2. Preventive maintenance scheduling system for garment manufacturing machineries
3.2.3. Information technology integration with maintenance schedules
3.2.4. Innovative on digitalized machine operation, sensor technology and work aids for easily
control and accuracy of apparel machineries.
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Sub-theme 3.3. Quality and availability of Raw materials in local market
Description
It considered that our country Ethiopia has huge resource on cotton production, but the garment
companies are suffering on good quality fabric supply. This leads to investigate on high quality
fabric production, raw material characterization for the specific product, supply chain integration
with manufacturer. Integration of agricultural plant sciences department with textile and garment
sectors for better innovative on plants species, property study and productivity improvements on
fiber generating plants like cotton, bamboo and jute fiber.
Aim
The main aim of this sub-theme is to support and facilitate the developments of garment
manufacturing in Ethiopia by contributing on how raw material can supplied from local
resources, integration of local supplier and producer for specific quality and quantity
requirements.
Research areas
3.3.1. Technology adoption and Innovative support for Ethiopian cultural clothing sector on
better productivity, product quality, comfort and safeties of the user.
3.3.2. Supply chain on local fabric and garment factories for specific requirement/ market driven
work for fabric manufacturers
3.3.3. Logistics, infrastructure and supply for internal chain
3.3.4. Quality specialists on brand development
3.4.5. Resource and manufacturing industry distribution/original integrity through the country
Sub-them 3.4. Sizing standard chart for Ethiopian
Description
This sub -theme focused on the supporting on development of sizing standards, size measuring
and data generating applications. Based on Ethiopian context, there is no published and legalized
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size data for all age groups of peoples. Using the other countries size information,
approximation, selecting the nearest size from developed countries anthropometric data is one of
time consuming activities; it may also be reason to have less brand images on the local products.
Even the system, the trend, skills and knowledge to develop standardized test will have good
impact to be competent in the international market.
Aim
The aim of this sub-them is to provide appropriate, size wise, age wise product for the countries
as well as for world market. To have will organized size data for local and world investors, to
keep recorded data for future generation.
Research areas
4.2.1. Size chart development for Ethiopian women’s, men’s children’s for shoes, garment
upper and lower torso.
4.2.2. Software development for size development, conversion, body scanning and digital
characterization.
4.2.3. Pattern making and characterizing for Ethiopian school student’s size by their grad.
Theme 5. Research and Development Center
Sub-theme 5.1. R&D towards new products

Description
This sub-theme mainly focuses on the developmental impacts of having research and
development centers for clothing industries. Integrated manufacturing that can be supported with
market researches, having compiled previous data’s, having forecasted data’s with appropriate
professional support, providing fashionable and timely demands of customers, providing
alternative materials that can be re-engineering, innovated, from waste characterization or from
any source that the researcher will work on it. Method or System development on how the
researchers will work with all departments in the companies. R&D impacts on current problems
of the companies, how the companies can be supported with the center from Ethiopian context
for enterprise, medium and large size manufacturing companies.
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Aim
The aim of this sub-them is support the industries by new product design, by new findings of the
previous manufacturing problems, providing advanced technologies in each manufacturing
process, providing advanced, low cost, easily available and good quality materials.
Research areas
5.1.1. concern on R&D towards new products development
5.1.2. liquid and solid waste management system
5.1.3. Integration of garment engineering with agricultural plant science departments
5.1.4. Research on market analyses, customer feedback, product life cycle, value addition
program, material blend and composition, supplier analyses, market forecasting.
5.1.5. Fashion shows impact on brand development, design improvement techniques,
comparative studies on different cultural clothing
5.1.6. standardizing cultural production system of Ethiopian
II. BES RIC RESEARCH THEMATIC AREAS
MAJOR RESEARCH THEMES

In recognition of the need to conduct problem-solving and impact-oriented research a need has
been felt to design trans-disciplinary and integrated research in a thematic approach. Thus, the
following are the research thematic areas that have been identified:
Theme-1. Design, Manufacturing and maintenance
The Ethiopian government has given a due attention to the textile and apparel sector, mean-while
the small-scale manufacturing industries are leading the cultural clothing production, yet the
support in improving and modernizing the production processes very limited.
The BES Research and innovation center is endeavors in setting research themes as a goal to
ensure the attainment of improved technologies and productivity. Given the broad nature of this
theme, priority will be given to basic, applied, and development research in the areas of textile,
Garment and Leather industries,
Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to enhance the productivity, ergonomics and safety for integrated
mills to local small-scale industries
Research areas
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 Designing of accessories and machineries
 Manufacturing of accessories and machineries
 Maintenance facilities and scheduling
 Development of composites for automotive, aerospace and architectural
 applications
 applications
 applications
 Development of composites from industrial wastes
 Design optimization and improvement of Hand operated local machineries
Theme-2. Energy and Environment

Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to undertake research related to improving energy utilization in
industries.
This can be attained through designing systems for re using energy and minimizing waste.
Description
Maximum power consuming process are the main focus areas for conducting research with
priority, through appropriate technologies and practices to optimize the environmental impacts
and cost minimization are among the major activities under this sub-theme. These include waste
management, carbon footprint, solar PVs, Energy recycling, Energy audit, Energy management,
 Energy efficient process design

 Energy auditing,
 Renewable energy application in textile and apparel industries
 Energy recovery
 Bio-energy
 Waste management
 Environment
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Theme-3. Information Technology and Computing
Aim
The merit of this sub-theme is to analyze, design and/or develop ICT solutions and conduct
computational and statistical analysis to solve problems.
Description
This sub-theme focuses on three areas: computer and information technology development and
advancement, statistical modelling and scientific computing. The research involves also need and
impact assessments.
Research Areas
 Mathematical modeling,
 Formulating, developing, and enhancing information technologies

 Development and application of statistical methods
 Developing mathematical and computational theories
 Operational research
 Formulate a mathematical model to represent the problem.
 Develop a computer-based procedure for deriving solutions to problems
 Computational mathematics theories and applications
 Transformative new mathematical knowledge and applications
Theme-4. Educational Advancement

Aim
This sub-theme aims at research for generating knowledge, skills, innovations, technologies and
best practices for improving educational quality, relevance, equity, standard, quality assurance,
and educational leadership.
Description
This sub-theme focuses on improving the quality of teaching-learning process, student learning
competence and achievements, professional development, leadership development, educational
planning, curriculum enhancement, school education improvement programmes, application of
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ICT and other technologies for enhancing quality of education, and inclusive education. It also
deals with interlinking education with research results, with community based education, with
industries as well as businesses. The sub-theme also focuses on finding ways of creating
enabling environments and facilities for teaching and learning, including for special-need
students. Educational standards, dimension, models, and tools for quality assurances are also the
thrust of this theme. The sub-theme also deals with research on student assessment, guidance and
counseling, and the link between quality assessments and policy interventions as well as
functional adult literacy and other forms of non-formal education.
Quality education
Educational planning and management
Special needs and inclusive education
Curriculum inquiry
Applied psychological research
Assessment and evaluation of teaching-learning
Educational quality assurance
Adult education and community development
Theme-5. Human and Social Development
Industrial Human resource management

Workers turnover
Conflict management and peace building
Language and literature
III. Textile Chemistry Research and Innovation Center

Research and Dissemination (RD) Thematic Areas
Content:
1. Introduction
2. About Textile Chemistry Center of Research and Innovation
3. Background and Rationale for RD Thematic Area Design
21
4. Industry Assessment
5. Industry Based Broad Thematic Areas
6. Summary
1. Introduction
Bahir Dar University is a public research university in the city of Bahir Dar, the capital of the
Amhara National Regional State in Ethiopia. Established as 1954 polytechnic Collage. The
University is a combination of two smaller institutes formed earlier, after the departments were
gradually raised to a degree level starting from 1996. The official motto of the university is
"Wisdom at the source of the Blue Nile" The University is composed of five colleges, four
institutes, seven faculties, two academies and one school. The two institutions were integrated
into Bahir Dar University following the Council of Ministers regulation no. 60/1999. The
University was inaugurated on May 6, 2000, and the Polytechnic Institute and the Teachers
College became the Faculty of Engineering and Faculty of Education, respectively. In addition,
the university added two more faculties, that of Business and Economics and the faculty of Law,
which were established in 2001 and 2003 respectively. Bahir Dar University was officially
inaugurated in May 2001. The university is one of the largest institutions in Ethiopia; it is home
to 52,830 students, dispatched in 69 undergraduate’s disciplines, 118 masters and 32 PhD
programs.
transformation plan of the nation, a continuous research development and technology upgrading
scheme has to be provided in an organized manner. This includes thematic based support through
22
research, technology adaptation and development and industry based community service.
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology is one of the technology institutes in the
country to deliver professional graduates to support the industry and allied organizations.
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology (EiTEX) is a pioneer institute of

technology under Bahir Dar University known for multitude of specializations in the discipline
inclusive of textile, garment, fashion, merchandizing and leather both at undergraduate and
postgraduate level. To meet the demands in academic and professional development and produce
highly qualified knowledgeable and skill full graduates, the institute is organized in academic
and research wing.
Chemistry Research and Innovation Center (TC-RiC).
Though there are trails in supporting industries though research and dissemination by TC-RiC; it
meetings that the support to the industry is minimal and below the expectations in line with the
GTP. Accordingly a critical survey of the current status of the textile industries has become a
requirement to set up thematic areas for research, technology development and industry based
community service to meet the set visions and missions of the nation from manufacturing sector
point of view.
2. About Textile Chemistry Center of Research and Innovation
The center of research and innovation for textile chemistry (TC-RiC) is one of the research and
innovation centers in Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology (EiTEX). The center
was established in the year 2011 and is among the four pillar research and innovation centers in
EiTEX.
As a research and innovation center under EiTEX, TC-RiC is concern on professional and
research development in the following core disciplines.
23
 Fibers and Polymeric Materials
 Production and application of Natural Fibers
 Man Made Fibers
 Textile Preparation
 Coloration Technology (Dyeing and Printing)
 Conventional and Advanced Textile Finishing
 Leather Processing
The center which is led by a Director has four sub units or LRI (learning, research and
implementation teams) and work to enhance the quality of teaching-learning, problem solving
research, innovation tasks and transferable technology and other dissemination activities. These
are:
 Fibre Science and Technology

 Pretreatment and Finishing Technology
 Leather Technology
 Textile Coloration Technology
As a purpose in meeting the vision of the institute as per nation demand, the TC-RiC was
launched among other development programs to excel in research, innovation and dissemination
activities aimed at providing efficient support to the textile/leather industry, educational
institutions and related sectors. The center is organized to provide well trained textile chemists
and researchers/innovators to the market in the fields of textile/leather processing and
fiber/polymer science and technology.
With this regard, the TC-RiC is striving to support the stakeholders and the nation as a whole
supplying transferable knowledge and skills through continuous and effective research and
dissemination activities. On the spot at the ground, the TC-RiC is engaged in ensuring quality
teaching-learning process, problem solving and transferable research and training; and outcome
based dissemination (technology transfer, community service, scientific publications, and
academic seminars) activities. These activities are in line with the missions and vision of the
institute cascaded from the expectations of the sector as per the growth and transformation plan
of the government.
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Vision of Textile Chemistry Center of Research and Innovation Center
To become one of the three researches and innovation centers in textile chemistry in Africa in
2025 recognized for its problem solving and transferable research to the society.
Mission of Textile Chemistry Center of Research and Innovation Center
To create suitable environment by which students and scholars scale-up their academic
excellence and potentials by involving in fibre and textile processing research and innovation
activities and transferring acquired knowledge and skills in a systematic way to large, medium
and small scale industries and community at regional and national level.
3. Background and Rationale for RTDCS Thematic Area Design
The core pillar activity of universities among others is research and dissemination which is
expressed by conducting a problem solving and transferable research project and technology.
The dissemination channel could be in terms of direct transfer of research outputs to the
industrial community and/or technology development/adaptation and transfer to
industries/enterprises and the community at large. To this end our institute as one of developing
countries institution is mostly endeavoring to participate in research and dissemination activities
which have impact on relevant sectors. But the current scenario is not in a way or trend to create
a conducive and sustainable research culture to practically solve the socio-economic problems
and is inefficient to address the critical demands of the GTP in the textile. Unless effective
research and dissemination scheme is implemented, realization of industry development to
enhance the competitiveness in the global market will not be practical.
The problems with regard to research and dissemination in a particular intensification of support
the industry and allied sectors through problem solving RD are quite large and wide spread; and
require immediate intervention as far as enhancement of the national economic growth is
concerned. The practical effective linkage and integrative work with the textile and allied
industries is minimal. The interest of graduates and scholars to work at the grass root and
identify the key problems of the sectors is also not attractive. In addition, capability to adapt and
develop demand driven technologies and transfer thereof is quite minimal. Due participation in
joint research projects and transfer of research and technology through effective industry linkage
nationally and internationally is almost null. Most importantly the expected intervention of the
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government to scale up integrative work to utilize professionals to solve the industry problem is
also not sufficient. All in all these leads to minimal contribution to industries, allied
organizations and the community at large.
service activities. In so doing and clear preparation of short, medium and longer term plans, it is
4. Industry Assessment
As part of design of the thematic areas for research, technology development and community
service inline with problem oriented and enhancement of the textile industries in terms of
production, productivity and quality selected industries have been visited. The team of textile
chemistry research and innovation center have visited and critically identified the problems of
the selected industries. The industries visited and the current status plus their major challenges
are presented in Table 1.
Table 1: Assessment of Textile Industries to set up RD theme
S.N Industry Product Type Problems Problem Description

. Visited Identified
1. KANORI 10% cotton  Pretreatment  They use same recipe irrespective
A Textiles fabric for jeans and dyeing of the differences in their
and related recipes and products, even this recipe is not
products conditions optimized for any product. Some
not yarn dyeing effluent properties
optimized such as hardness and turbidity are
not technically measured. Air
26
conditioning chamber is not
installed at all sections
 There is high steam leakage and

also since the drying chamber is
 High energy
open there is high energy wastage
wastage at
to the environment
drying
section of
sizing  For singeing company uses
flames and pressure mangle for
extinguishing and there is
difficulty of extinguishing the
 Unable to
flame, especially at selvages
extinguish
flame after
 The customers are requesting
singeing
recovery percentage of 95 and
above but the company achieves a
maximum recovery of 85%;
 Recovery
improving problems related to the
challenge
use of Lycra- recovery; stretch
from stretch
growth
of lycra
based jeans
fabrics  The fabric selvage curling a one
of the major problems at the
company
 Fabric
selvage
 The company’s has the worst
curling
material handling way; one can
see that the chemicals of different
 Improper
nature, finished and semi-finished
27
material products are stored in the
handling production area open space
covered with dust. Furthermore
chemicals and some ingredients
store are around working area and
dyed yarn and fabric are
deposited around the m/c and
working area
 Energy management in sizing

 Other
section
potential
 Alternative sizing chemical in
problems
order to substitute imported starch
 Sizing recipe formulation to avoid
the use of binder
 Machine design to in singeing
machine
2. MNS 10% cotton  Improper  There is a problem with regards
Textiles fabric for material to storage of materials in working
towels and handling area and the kaizen based
related organization is absent
products
 Shade  There is critical problem of shade
variation at variation in dyeing of materials
large
3. JP Textiles 10% cotton  Model  No significant problems and is
and 30/70 CV finishing model finishing section
blended fabric enterprise  Recommended to send staff
members at least for two months
externship program
4. ETUR Knitted fabric  Improper  Improper labeling and storage of
Textiles from recycled material colored fabrics
fabric waste handling  Machine design to regenerate
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 Machine fibers from used garment and
design garment processing waste
problem
5. ELSE Woven and  Improper  No spare part for maintenance of
ADDIS knitted Ginning broken or stoppage machines.
products They transfer from one machine
to another due to this problem
more than half of the machines
have stopped
 Cotton seed is covered open
space due to condition of the local
cotton seed users for using as
animal feeds and oil productions
are very low
 They use low grade raw material
quality and the raw cotton
properties are not carefully check
 High amount of lint fiber

 Improper
formation are removed with
spinning
cotton seed fiber as waste
waste
management  Improper receive and
management of fiber wasters
from different sections
 Huge amount of spinning waste
and paper cone are stored in
improper way
 Overall bale management and
mixing problem is observed
 International system adaptation
29
and implementations is weak
 Sort of cannibalization exist in
the spinning and weaving section
of the company
6. ETHIO- 100%  Shade  Use of old version of machinery
JAPAN polyester variation unmaintained regularly; poor or
Textiles fabric for problem inefficient temperature control at
clothing and selected sections; and use of old
related chemicals such as for
products pretreatment of fabrics. There are
also other reasons which need
critical analysis
 High liquor
 Per batch of the fabric [300-400
ratio of
kg], per process of pretreatment
dyeing
and dyeing, 8000 liters of water is
machines
being consumed. Especially water
consumption by the different
dyeing machines is very high. In
addition appropriate moisture
measurement scheme after sizing,
pretreatment and dyeing is not
adopted
 Pretreatment
and dyeing
 Pretreatment and dyeing recipes
recipes and
not optimized, if so there could be
conditions
possibility of savings and quality
not
increments
optimized
 Improving sizing parameters is
also required
 Color
 When new brands of colorants are
matching
30
problems for bought the dye house of the
new brands company faces color matching
of colorants problems due to, probably
technical gaps of personnel
 Technical
problems of
dyeing  Even though jet dyeing machine
cotton using is universal dyeing machine,
Jet dyeing when they try to dye cotton
machine fabrics using jet dyeing machine
the fabric gets abraded highly
 Poor wash
fastness of
 They are facing rejections on
cotton
dyed cotton products due to poor
dyeing
wash fastness; they do not have
specially for
facilities for checking fastness
dark shades
properties
 Energy management in
 Other
processing section
general
 Designing batching machine in
problems
order to remove shade variation
during dyeing
 Energy and water saving by
combining neutralizing and
rinsing process in jet dyeing
 Finished fabric inspection without
appropriate grading system is
followed
 Ineffective manual screen
preparation
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 The waste water treatment plant
is not well organized
7. Al- 100%  Improper  Raw and manufactured materials

MEHEDI polyester material are stored in the working areas
Textiles fabric for handling and around the machines; kaizen
sports and system is not implemented
related  The finished products [without
products proper packaging or rolling] can
be seen placed randomly on the
floor of the store even without
any cover. Chemicals are also
placed in the production area of
the knitting section
 Stoppage of machines due to
 Overall
handling and spare part problems
dyeing
are observed
defects
Shade  There is frequent shade correction
by re-dyeing due to high shade
variation
variations due to power
interruptions, etc
 Poor practice in measuring fabric
characteristics and dyed fabric
properties such as fastness and
absence of organized process
 Functional
control
finishing
 Required and critical functional
absent
finishes for sportswear are not
applied. Themophysical
characteristics of fabrics are poor.
8. DBF Blanket and  Shortage of  The factory is almost closing due
to shortage of wool fibers: no
related raw material
supply from Ethiopia due to
products supply awareness of farmers rising sheep
and hard currency problems for
[Wool
importing wool fiber. Critical
32
Fiber] and urgent intervention from relevant
ministries is required.
other
 Awareness creation workshop
alternatives towards sustainable usage of the
available wool resource in the
country
9. KTSC Cotton  Utility  Waste water treatment level
unutilized
garments problem
 Waste water treatment and waste
disposal
 Improving energy utilization
 Cost related
 Wet on wet dyeing so as to
dyeing
minimize cost
problems
10. SAYATE Cotton yarn  Poor yarn  Critical air condition problem
X quality
5. Industry Based Broad Thematic Areas
Based on assessment of the representative industries and in view of targeting the potential
problems of the sector the team has designed the following broad thematic areas for variety of
research, technology transfer and community service to be commenced as of year 2019 G.C.
Theme 1. Utilization and Beneficiation of Ethiopian Sheep Fiber

Blanket and related woolen based materials have potential for apparel sectors and there is a huge
demand of wool fibers in and out of the country. It has been identified that the Blanket industries
are on the verge of stopping product development due to the absence of wool fibers. They are
dependent on foreign rugs and waste materials which make them unable to satisfy the deemed
interest of customers at large. A grand and integrated project can be initiated on Ethiopian wool
fiber potential with the objective of creating awareness and bringing farmers and industry closer.
This is required to investigate Ethiopian Wool fiber potential and its process ability. In view of
these it is expected that design of the thematic area on ‘Utilization and Beneficiation of
Ethiopian Sheep Fiber’ is very critical in addressing the supply of wool fibers to the industries in
particular and product substitution goal of the nation as a whole. This theme shall focus on
priority areas of productivity/production of Ethiopian sheep fiber, creating a marketing chain and
the wet-processing conditions and recipes of the fiber.
33
Sub-theme 1.1. Production of Ethiopian Sheep Fiber
Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to enhance the knowledge of farmers/producers through improving
the breeding and shearing or harvesting systems of the wool fibers up to the transportation to the
mill.
Description
The sub-theme focuses on studying the types of sheep and cultivation areas that could give a
higher quality fiber, with higher yield and value addition on the fibers.
Research Areas
 Extraction and characterization of wool fibers
 Integrated project on the potential of Ethiopian wool fiber and creating marketing chain
 Studying Sheep fiber properties of different regions
 Integrated project on the potential of Ethiopian wool fiber and creating marketing chain:
Pilot trial at Debre birhan Blanket Factory
Sub-theme 1.2. Wet-processing conditions and Recipes of Ethiopian Sheep Fiber

Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to undertake researches related to wet-processing process control of
sheep fiber resulting in high quality and high productivity of the fiber. This is done through
process optimization, adoption of technologies and improving technical know-how of
operators/operation.
Description
The sub-theme focuses on research and development of optimized wet-processing conditions
(carbonization, wool scouring, wool bleaching, wool dyeing). Effective engagement and working
in this sub-theme; it is expected to result in cost savings, reductions in rejections and improved
products qualities.
Research Areas
 Product development from Ethiopian wool fibers for versatile applications
 Optimization of the process conditions
Theme 2. Optimization of Processing Conditions and Recipes in Textile Wet Processing
34
In textile wet-processing recipe as per standard finished product quality and appropriate
optimizations are very critical in ensuring reproducibility. From observation of Ethiopian textile
mills, the conditions and recipes employed are not based on optimizations and standards. Even
though the conditions and recipes of textile processing are highly dependent on materials to be
processed and other input materials, except in very limited cases, the companies are using similar
conditions and recipes throughout their processing. Accordingly, it is vital to design a thematic
area on ‘Optimization of Processing Conditions and Recipes in Textile Wet Processing’.
Effective engagement and working in this theme is expected to result in cost savings, reductions
in rejections and improved products qualities. This is considered to be one of the most difficult
problems of our industries in global market competitions.
Sub-theme 2.1. Process control and Sequence Management in Textile Wet-processing
Aim
The aim of this theme is to result in sustainable improvement on utilization of optimized process
control parameters and recipe. As well as the management of the appropriate sequence of the
processes.
Description
The sub-theme focuses on researching and developing sound and sustainable processing
conditions, which will give a higher priority to greener production system. This will result
positive as it is expected to reduce the use of energy, water, chemicals, man power and others.
Research Areas
 Design of flame eliminating mechanism on singeing process: Case study
 Optimizations of processing recipes and conditions for selected processing
 Minimization and optimization of Liquor ratios in dyeing process
 Sustainable solutions for color matching
 Enhancement of fastness problems: Case study
 Elimination/minimization of shade variation: Case studies
 Process control in dyeing, printing and finishing
 Kaizen principles: theory and practice
 Effective material handling system
Sub-theme 2.2. Advances in Textile Material Processing Research and Development
35
Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to synthesize/fabricate and develop materials and processes in
macro/micro/nanoscale as well as their processing conditions that have applications in numerous
areas such as apparel and other technical applications.
Description
This sub-theme focuses on the synthesis, fabrication, and development of novel materials and
their process conditions.
Research Areas
 Fabrication/development and applications of nanomaterials in textile wet-processing
 Functional finishing of sports wear
 Improving thermo-physiological comfort characteristics sports wear
Theme 3. Energy Management in Textile Industry
The survey clearly indicates that the industries assessed have no or too little concern to the loss
of energy especially in the form of steam. It can be realized at the floor spot that there is huge
loss of energy that has to be minimized or eliminated in implementation of cost effective wet
processing and maximizing productivity. Besides cost effective approach the generated steam
has potential impact in the air condition and workers safety which is related to eco-friendly
processing. In view of these it is expected that design of the thematic area on ‘Energy
Management in Textile Industry’ is very crucial in realization of cost effective and
environmentally friendly wet processing in the industrial sector.
Sub-theme 3.1. Energy Management in Textile Industry

Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to study the influence of various areas of energy consumption and
process of optimisation in textile chemical process section on energy conservation.
Description
Energy efficiency is an important component of a company’s environmental strategy. End-of-
pipe solutions can be expensive and inefficient while energy efficiency can often be an
inexpensive opportunity to reduce emissions of criteria and other pollutants. In short, energy-
efficiency investment is a sound business strategy in today’s manufacturing environment. The
36
textile industry is one of the most complicated manufacturing industries because it is a
fragmented and heterogeneous sector dominated by small and medium enterprises (SMEs).
Energy is one of the main cost factors in the textile industry. Especially in times of high energy
price volatility, improving energy efficiency should be a primary concern for textile plants.
There are various energy-efficiency opportunities that exist in every textile plant, many of which
are cost-effective. However, even cost-effective options often are not implemented in textile
plants mostly because of limited information on how to implement energy-efficiency measures,
especially given the fact that a majority of textile plants are categorized as large scale and hence
they have limited resources to acquire this information. Know-how on energy-efficiency
technologies and practices should, therefore, be prepared and disseminated to textile plants.
Research areas
 Energy management in textile industry
 Energy audit and saving analysis
 Energy-Efficiency Improvement Opportunities for the chemical processing section of
textile industry
 Renewable energy alternative for textile industry
 Process integration for maximum energy efficiency
Theme 4. Sustainable production of Leveled and Shade Variation Free Dyed Textiles
During the industry survey it was observed that among the critical problems in dyeing of textile
materials is levelness and shade variation. Though companies have tried various ways to tackle
the shade variation problems there has not been feasible and sustainable mechanism in
elimination or minimization of shade variation problems. Out of option some of the industries
are limited to focus on the local market rather than competing at a global perspective. The reason
behind the shade variation and overall inconsistency in dyeing is at wider scope and covers
problems right from raw fiver delivery to the final dyeing and after treatment process.
Accordingly it is very crucial to design a responsive thematic area ‘Sustainable production of
Leveled and Shade Variation Free Dyed Textiles’ to improve the quality of dyed textiles for
enhancement of the export share of dyed textiles and overall participation in the global market.
Sub-Theme 4.1. Shade variation free dyed textile

Aim
37
The aim of this sub-theme area is to study the shade variation in textile dyeing process and to
propose sustainable way of shade variation free dyeing methods. This theme also aims to
scrutinize the change in physical and chemical properties of fabric with a variety of shade depth
dyeing with various dye types.
Description
Shade variation is a common and big problem for the dyeing industries. Lots of reasons are
responsible for the variation of shade in dyeing textile industries. Batch to Batch shade problem
is noticed when the fabric is dyed in small batch to fulfill the whole order quantity. From the
thorough investigation it is seen that the most cases, the shade variation occurs due to lack of the
concentration and lack of proper duty by the operator of the concerned machine. Most of the
time, different dyeing faults like shade variations happens due to lacking’s of responsibility taken
by concerned management in the dyeing floor along with some technical issues. Maintenance is
also a burning fact for the shade variation. To keep the machine sound, the maintenance
department must be strong enough and effective. Shade variation is a very unwanted and
unexpected thing to a Textile Engineer and also for dyeing production floor. It is the duty of
responsible authority in the dyeing floor to keep the production away from the shade variation
among all the batches of an order along with all the dyeing faults also through performing the
duty properly along with maintaining all the Procedures and parameters smooth in the dyeing
floor.
Research Areas
 Causes and Remedies of Batch to Batch Shade Variation in Dyeing Textile
 Effect of fiber, yarn and fabric characteristics on color variation in woven fabric dyed with
various dye types
 Effect of fiber, yarn and fabric characteristics on color variation in knitted fabric dyed with
various dye types
 A Comparative Study on Effect of Shade Depth on Various Properties of Cotton Knitted
Fabric Dyed
 Sustainable solutions for color matching
 Enhancement of fastness problems: Case study
 Elimination/minimization of shade variation: Case studies
 Process control in dyeing, printing and finishing
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Theme. 5. Implementation of Appropriate Material Handling System in Textile Finishing
Most of the companies visited showed no significant emphasis in how to handle and store raw
materials, intermediate and finished products. As can be seen from the problem assessment
description, most of the materials are placed here and there and these will directly have influence
on the productivity and quality of the company’s products. In addition appropriate bench marked
systems such as lean manufacturing, kaizen and related material handling tools are not well
understood and implemented. In general it is known that effective material handling will greatly
affect the sustainability of finishing company as far as cost effectiveness and overall global
competition as a company is concerned specially from the perspective of creating and
maintaining conducive working environment, health and safety. Accordingly training vs. RD
based thematic area on ‘Implementation of Appropriate Material Handling System in Textile
Finishing’ is designed to critically evaluate the individual companies, and design and implement
adapted, customized and newly investigated material handling and overall floor management
systems in the textile finishing sectors.
Materials handling covers movement and storage of everything in and around an establishment.
The ideal factory would have an absolute minimum of materials handling and hence more use of
mechanical appliances. The shortage of labour and increasing wages cost demand the most
efficient use of labour. Proper materials handling offers opportunity for improving productivity,
reducing materials wastage, minimizing industrial accidents, reducing man-power, etc. A
process, material handling incorporates a wide range of manual, semi-automated
and automated equipment and systems that support logistics and make the supply chain work.
Their application helps with: Forecasting; Resource allocation; Production planning; Flow and
process management; Customer delivery and after-sales support and service.
A research within this theme is aimed a company's material handling system and processes are
put in place to improve customer service, reduce inventory, shorten delivery time, and lower
overall handling costs in manufacturing, distribution and transportation.
Sub-Theme 5.1. Raw Material handling in Textile Finishing
Aim
The aim of using necessary raw materials (dyes, chemicals and physical process) in textile
finishing is the beautification of fabric it changes according to consumer demands. Handling and
39
systematical of such raw materials would save resources and increase the quality and quantity of
the product.
Description
Textile mill consumes a huge amount of raw material for conversion of raw material to final
products. The mills are using a large number of machines and processes. During conversion of
raw material to end product; material moves from one department to other, one machine to other
machine and from one floor to other. Day by day, production of each machine is going up. To
achieve the target of production, the mill management is facing the challenge of safe, efficient
and economical material handling. In this paper it is tried to provide the required knowledge of
material handling in reference to textile mills.
By saving in the material handling cost, the cost of production can be reduced considerably.
Material handling involves the movement of materials, manually or mechanically in batches or
one item at a time within the plant. The movement may be horizontal, vertical or the combination
of these two. Material movement adds to the cost but not to the product value. The ideal mill
would have an absolute minimum of materials handling and more use of mechanical material
handling equipments.
The handling of materials in dyeing process like Reactive dye; disperse dye; acid dye; basic dye,
direct dye, sulfur dye etc were improved through appropriate use of such dyes and printing
colors. Dyeing auxiliaries mean a chemical or formulated chemical product which enables a
processing operation in preparation, dyeing, printing or finishing to be carried out more
effectively, or which is essential if a given effect is to be obtained.
Research Areas
 Reuse of dyeing Water
 Designing of new material handling system in textile finishing
 Recovery of castoff textile chemicals
 Identifying Kaizen Techniques
 Effective use of raw materials in dyeing, printing and finishing
 Raw materials handling in finishing
40
 Mechanism development for textile chemicals and auxiliary handling.
Theme 6. Cost Effective and Eco-friendly Wet Processing Techniques
In priority order, the most significant problems in wet processing of textile materials at a global
level is cost effectiveness and environmental friendliness. This has been quoted as a potential
bottleneck for success history of the world textile finishing sectors. In our nation also the limited
share of the finished products export mainly relied on cost and environment related issues.
Practically speaking the concern to cost and environment in some of the visited company is good
but on overall assessment there is potential weakness. Even in some of the companies the
awareness for cost minimization or cost effective processing is not realized and there are no
adequate effluent treatment plants. To this end for remarkable sustainability of the textile
industry and the textile finishing sections in particular it is vital to design a thematic area on
‘Cost Effective and Eco-friendly Wet Processing Techniques’ to solve the critical problems and
enhance the competiveness of the industries at a global level.
Steps taken at various stages of wet processing of textiles to ensure quality of products,
particularly in the decentralized sector. A few important guidelines for various cost saving
measures by process modifications and adopting new concepts based on modern technological
changes are also given. The special importance of using eco-friendly dyes and chemicals is also
highlighted in view of latest ban on the export of textiles using such dyes.
Sub-theme 6.1 Cost Effective Wet Processing Techniques

Aim
The aim of this sub-theme is to produce a cost effective in textile wet processing products to
reduce the cost of the materials. This theme was to customize the sustainable wet processing in
textile industry on the basis of available equipment’s and their condition, chemicals available,
steam availability etc. the purpose was to achieve right process sequence applicable in their set
up to do cost effective wet processing.
Description
The textile industry has to strive and put in some real work towards fulfilling such expectations.
Hence wet processing of the future should be cost effective, environmentally friendly and gentle
to the textile material. Innovative efficient strategies to achieve these goals are needed. This
41
research idea reports various such innovative techniques like “Right first time dyeing”, finishing
and various measures of energy and water conservation which makes Textile Processing eco-
friendly and cost effective in future. The special importance of using eco-friendly dyes and
chemicals is also highlighted in view of latest ban on the export of textiles using such dyes.
Research Areas
 Study on energy and water consumption in textile finishing.
 Maintenance of broken-down machines and equipment in textile wet processing to reduce
the extra cost.
 Reduction in processing cost.
 Reduction in wastewater treatment cost.
 Reduction in thermal energy consumption.
 Reduction in electrical energy consumption.
Sub-theme 2.2 Eco-friendly Wet Processing Techniques
Aim
This sub theme aim is generating research in minimizing the negative effects of textile effluent
on the environment. All aspects from origin to the disposal of textile chemicals have to be taken
into account. The textile wet processing units discharge a large quantity of effluent comprising of
a wide range of chemicals such as dyes, auxiliary chemicals, which contain metal ions as well.
Description
‘Sustainable’, ‘economical’, and ‘eco-friendly’ production has recently become important issues
in textile manufacturing processes. In the world, textile conventional production industry is one
of the major industries which cause environmental pollutions. During textile wet process, great
deals of wastes are leaved in air, soil and, especially water. Due to these wastes, all species in the
ecosystem are negatively affected. In order to manufacture a ton of textile, approximately 230–
270 tons water is used. After the textile production, the water is undertaken with heavy
chemicals and this waste water is leaved in environment. In textile production industry, there are
two efficient methods to decrease the environmental pollution. Constructed of large and highly
effective effluent treatment plants is a method to reduce the amount of wastes. The other method
is the use of natural raw materials and ecological production methods. Recently, researchers have
been seeking for ecological, sustainable, and biodegradable natural raw materials alternatively
synthetic raw materials. Especially, natural textile raw materials have been begun to use
42
accelerating in comparison with synthetic raw materials in textile industry. Furthermore, new
natural fibers have been obtained from different source and the use of these fibers has searched
in textile industry. In textile wet process, especially, waste water with heavy chemicals load is a
major problem. In order to eliminate the negative effect of waste water, researchers have been
searching for solutions. In literature, coating, microencapsulation, plasma applications, using of
ultrasonic and microwave energy, using of supercritical carbon dioxide and ozone treatment are
described as some of the eco-friendly process in textile wet industry. In this study, some eco-
friendly production methods in textile wet industry were investigated, separately. Furthermore,
the advantages of new production methods were searched.
All over the world, environmental considerations are now becoming vital factors during the
selection of consumer goods including textiles. However, due to increased awareness of the
nature of polluting textiles effluents, social pressures are increasing on textile processing units.
Awareness about eco-friendliness in textiles is one of the important issues in recent years since
textiles are used next to skin and called the second skin.
Research Areas
 Introducing new eco-friendly technology in textile wet processing.
 Textile processing with effluents treatment
 Environmental aspects of textile wet processing
 Pollution prevention studies in the textile Wet processing industry
 Textile processing industry
Summary
Based on the survey of critical problems of the textile industries in particular in relation to textile
wet processing and finishing is identified. A critical assessment is made and broad thematic areas
are designed. Accordingly the research and dissemination activities of the center from 2012 E.C
onwards will be given special emphasis to go along with the designed thematic areas. The
research and dissemination activity is expected to be carried out by the research groups of the
43
center with inclusiveness of scholars, teachers and other members based on interdisciplinary
and/or multidisciplinary nature of the particular task.
For successful implementation of the designed thematic areas collaborative work with the
institute, industry and relevant organizations such as government agencies and non-governmental
funders is expected as per the requirement. This kind of collaboration is very important to break
the bridge between universities and industries because based on the observation during the visit
most of the foreign companies have very poor trust in local manpower and their side inclination
will certainly have a negative impact on national development as far as the textile sector is
concerned.
The government shall give higher emphasis and priority on the system of textile investment and
incentivizing scheme based on output delivered by the companies. Otherwise looking into the
economic policy with regards to textile investment has given top manufacturing sector priority
and reviewed again for clear picture of realization of the GTP. To address the problems in
relation to the industry a common platform for workshops such as seminars, group meetings and
conferences must be arranged.
Furthermore relevant of offices under the institute are also expected to fully facilitate all the
activities as per specific action plan of implantation for the RD thematic areas. Overall by critical
support and evaluation of the research groups the targeted delivery to feasible solution for the
industry problems will be realized as per the requirement and this will make a pivotal role in
making the industries to be in line with the GTP expectations.
IV. Textile production Research and Innovation Center
Research and Dissemination (RD) Thematic Areas
44
Content:
7. Introduction
8. About Textile production Center of Research and Innovation
9. Background and Rationale for RD Thematic Area Design
10. Industry Assessment and identified thematic area
11. Summary
Introduction
45
transformation plan of the nation, a continuous research development and technology up
gradation scheme has to be provided in an organized manner. This includes thematic based
support through research, technology adaptation and development and industry based community
service. Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology is one of the technology institutes
in the country to deliver professional graduates to support the industry and allied organizations.
Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology is a pioneer institute of technology under
Bahir Dar University known for multitude of specializations in the discipline inclusive of textile,
garment, fashion, merchandizing and leather both at undergraduate and postgraduate level. To
meet the demands in academic and professional development and produce highly qualified
knowledgeable and skill full graduates the institute is organized in academic and research wing.
Production Research and Innovation Center (TP-RiC).
Though there are trails in supporting industries though research and dissemination by TP-RiC; it
meetings that the support to the industry is to minimal and much below the expectations in line
with the GTP. Accordingly a critical survey of the current status of the textile industries has
become a requirement to set up thematic areas for research, technology development and
industry based community service to meet the set visions and missions of the nation from
manufacturing sector point of view.
6. About Textile Production Research and Innovation Center
46
Textile production is major industry. It is based on the processing and conversion of natural and
manmade fibers in to yarns and then fabrics manufacturing depending on the requirement of final
product applications. There are many variable processes and material available starting from
fiber processing, yarn manufacturing and fabric -forming stages coupled with complexity of
finishing and coloration process. The recent success and growth of using textiles for customized
functional application rather than aesthetics in multidisciplinary sectors is creating new era of
technological advancements and wider scope of possible application in the newly emerging area
of technical textiles production.
EiTEX Textile Production RIC is launched to be the center of excellence for textile
manufacturing process and textile machine development concerning the production of yarns
and fabrics. At present, the competence center is concerned with the study of natural and man-
made fibers, yarns, woven and knitted materials, technical textiles, nonwovens, products and
machinery. These include natural and manmade materials, interactions of materials with
machine, safety and health, energy conservation and waste and pollution control. Additionally
the professionals are enabled to do textile plant design and layout, textile manufacturing design
improvement and designing and creating textile products. The tasks, which professional textile
engineers undertake, are too many to list them all.
The Research center has four focused sub centers organized as LRI teams in the areas of yarn
manufacturing Technology, Woven fabric manufacturing technology, knitted fabric
manufacturing technology and textile testing and quality control. The LRI center of
specializations will facilitate teaching learning and research activities with instructors organized
under a team.
LRI Research Thematic Areas

Yarn manufacturing LRI team
 Cotton processing (optimization of process parameters, inventory control,)
 Cotton quality and spin ability
 Quality control in cotton spinning mills
 Air conditioning of cotton spinning mills
 A Framework for Estimating Savings and Losses from Product Mix,
 Operational and Commercial Parameters in a Spinning Mills
47
 A Study on the Quality of Yarns Made of Man-Made Fibers and its Blends
 A Study on Packing Materials Cost in Spinning Mills
Fabric manufacturing LRI team (Thematic Areas)
 Quality control in weaving mills
 Techno-economic survey, Financial performance, cost control,
 Energy management
 Improvement of product quality and productivity of hand loom
 Technical textile (fiber composite, sanitary pad, diapers, sisal…. )
 Development of Fire Resistant Fabrics
 Development of Bandages using Bamboo Fibers
Knitting manufacturing LRI team (Thematic Areas)
 Quality control in knitting mills
 Operational and Commercial Parameters in a Knitting Mills
 Project formulation and diversification,
 Evaluation of Knitting Behavior Using Artificial Neural Network
 A Study on the Cost & Quality of Knitted Fabrics
 Survey of Ethiopian Textile Industry with reference to Knitting
 Techno-economic feasibility study of setting up a new mosquito net
manufacturing unit in Ethiopia.
 Survey of the knitters in Amhara Region especially in and around Bahir Dar.
Testing and quality control LRI
 Optimization of testing procedures and standardizing tests
 Raw material quality assurance methods
 Assuring production process quality parameters
 Total quality management principles in industries
 A Framework for Estimating production and quality relations
 focus on quality versus market relations
As a purpose in meeting the vision of the institute as per nation demand the TP-RiC is launched
among other development programs to excel in research, innovation and dissemination activities
aimed at providing efficient support to the textile manufacturing industries, educational
48
institutions and related sectors. The center is organized to provide well trained textile production
and researchers/innovators to the market in the fields of textile manufacturing and textile
technology.
With this regard the TP-RiC is striving to support the stakeholders and the nation as a whole
supplying transferable knowledge and skills through continuous and effective research and
dissemination activities. On the spot at the ground the TP-RiC is engaged on ensuring quality
teaching-learning process, problem solving and transferable research and training; and outcome
based dissemination (technology transfer, community service, scientific publications, and
academic seminars) activities. These activities are in line with the stetted missions and vision of
the institute cascaded from the expectations of the sector as per the growth and transformation
plan of the government.
Vision of Textile production Center of Research and Innovation Center
To become one of the three researches and innovation centers in textile manufacturing in Africa
in 2025 recognized for its problem solving and transferable research to the society.
Mission of Textile production Center of Research and Innovation Center
To create suitable environment by which students and scholars scale-up their academic
excellence and potentials by involving in fiber and textile manufacturing research and innovation
activities and transferring acquired knowledge and skills in a systematic way to large, medium
and small scale industries and community at regional and national level.
7. Background and Rationale for RTDCS Thematic Area Design
The core pillar activity of universities among others is research and dissemination which is
expressed by conducting a problem solving and transferable research project and technology.
The dissemination channel could be in terms of direct transfer of research outputs to the
industrial community and/or technology development/adaptation and transfer to
industries/enterprises and the community at large. To this end our institute as one of developing
countries institution is mostly endeavoring to participate in research and dissemination activities
which have impact on relevant sectors. But the current scenario is not in a way or trend to create
a conducive and sustainable research culture to practically solve the socio-economic problems
49
and is inefficient to address the critical demands of the GTP in the textile. Unless effective
research and dissemination scheme is implemented realization of industry development to
enhance the competitiveness in the global market will not be practical.
The problems with regard to research and dissemination in a particular intensification of support
the industry and allied sectors through problem solving RD are quite large and wide spread; and
require immediate intervention as far as enhancement of the national economic growth is
concerned. The practical effective linkage and integrative work with the textile and allied
industries is minimal. The interest of graduates and scholars to work at the grass root and
identify the key problems of the sectors is also not attractive. In addition capability to adapt and
develop demand driven technologies and transfer thereof is quite minimal. Due participation in
joint research projects and transfer of research and technology through effective industry linkage
nationally and internationally is almost null. Most importantly the expected intervention of the
government to scale up integrative work to utilize professionals to solve the industry problem is
also not sufficient. All in all these leads to minimal contribution to industries, allied
organizations and the community at large.
service activities. In so doing and clear preparation of short, medium and longer tem plans it is
8. Industry Assessment and Identified Thematic Area
As part of design of the thematic areas for research, technology development and community
service in line with problem oriented and enhancement of the textile industries in terms of
production, productivity and quality selected industries have been visited. The team of textile
50
production research and innovation center have visited and critically identified the problems of
the selected industries. The industries visited and the current status and their major problems are
listed below
ON Kanoria Africa Textile Spinning Department
1. Shortage of supply input material (lint cotton) problems or input material shortage
2. Raw materials (lint cotton) conditioning problems (No Ac system in raw materials store)
3. Material handling problems in spinning
4. High Neps generation particularly on weft yarn (carding machine problems)
5. Splicing problems in open end machine and impact on yarn quality
6. Productivity loss problem in spinning process (blow room ,carding, draw frame and open-
end machine)
7. Developing a system to minimize Employer turnover problems
8. Raw cotton quality problems
9. Bale management problems (cotton mixing)
ON Kanoria Africa Textile Weaving Department
1. Material handling and storage problems in weaving sections (there is no storage for finished
product)
2. High yarn length variation on ball warping machine or developing a system to minimize
remnant yarn(length variation) on ball warping machine
3. High waste generation in loom shed
4. High yarn breakage both weft and warp yarn in loom shed
5. Productivity loss problems in weaving section
6. There is no safety apparatus for operators in air jet loom section (like there is no sound
prevent apparatus,AC and others)
7. Shortage of empty beams
8. Spare part problems
9. Worker awareness about waste management problems
10. Operator skill problems
11. Operator absenteeism problems
51
12. There is no incentive for employers (there is no any motivational system for employers)
13. Sizing recipe preparation problems
14. Leader ship problems
0N JP Textile
1. There is no too much problems so simply take as a bench mark

ON Elsa Addis Textile Spinning Department
1. Spare part problems in spinning machinery
2. Skill man power shortage
3. Study optimal mixing ratio for good yarn quality in ring or open end line or Bale
management problems (cotton mixing)
4. Developing a suitable and cost effective methods to solve Raw materials quality problems
5. Developing a suitable and cost effective methods to solve Yarn quality problems
6. Maintenance problems in spinning process
7. Production loss problems in rotor spinning or low productivity
8. High yarn breakage in ring spinning machine
9. High yarn breakage in open end machine
10. High Neps generation in carding machine
11. Splicing problems in open end machine
12. Productivity loss problems in ginning process
13. Spare part problems in ginning machinery
14. High waste generation in ginning process or Study effective way of waste minimization in
ginning section
15. Developing a suitable and cost effective methods to solve Gin cotton quality problems
16. Shortage of Input materials (raw cotton shortage and supply problems) in ginning section
17. Machine efficiency problems on ginning process
18. Cleaning problems or low cleaning efficiency of ginning machinery (old machine)
ON Elsa Addis Textile Weaving Department
1. Sizing recipe preparation problems
2. Sizing machine tension problems and impact on yarn quality or sizing machine setting
problems especially tension
52
3. High waste selvedge in air jet loom
4. High yarn breakage in air jet loom (warp breakage)
5. Sizing chemical shortage or chemical supply problems
6. Maintenance and spare part problems in loom shed
7. Weft feeder problems in loom shed
ON ETUR Textile Plc.
1. Design and manufacturing of waste fabric recycling machine

2. Material handling problem in each department
3. Air conditioning (Ac) problems
4. Finished product quality problems (there is no testing equipment’s at all)
5. High weft breakage in circular knitting machine
6. Safety problems for worker (there is no safety for workers such as dusts from dyed yarn )
ON ETHIO JAPAN Synthetics Textile Weaving Department
1. Loss end in warping machine (automatic stop motion not functional)

2. Productivity loss in beam warping due to automatic splicing mechanism not functional
3. Effect of tension on yarn quality at sizing machine, sizing parameters testing problems (out
of standard) and sizing past preparation problems
4. Developing a system to minimize warp yarn end breakage in rapier and projectile loom
5. Developing a system to solve gray fabric inspection problems (No gray fabric inspection
system or no standard such as 10 point and 4 point)
6. Maintenance and spare part problems
7. AC Problems in preparatory and loom shed section
8. Developing a system to solve waste selvedge width problems (considering as a waste and
related to cost)
9. High warp yarn crossing in loom shed
10. Excess end in weaving problems
11. Materials handling problems in loom shed
12. Cone shortage problems for polyester yarn
ON ALMHEDINE TEXTILE Knitting Department
53
1. Stripe bar (line)defect problems on the fabric in circular knitting machine
2. Productivity loss problems in knitting machinery
3. Maintenance problems in warp knitting machine
4. Minimization of needle breakage on warp knitted machine
5. Developing a system to solve Knitted fabric quality problems
6. AC Problems in knitted section
7. Ergonomics problems
8. Kazan ,material handling and store problems in knitting department
9. No technology transfer for workers (technology transfer problems)
ON MNS Textile Plc. Spinning Department
1. Waste management problems in spinning (high waste generation problems)

2. Raw materials purchasing problems
3. Maintenance problems in spinning
4. Bale management problems (cotton mixing ratio)
5. Raw and yarn quality problems
6. Productivity loss problems in spinning
7. High worker turn over
8. Material handling and store problem in spinning
9. AC problems in spinning
10. Not as per standard the Operator allocate vs. machines (less than the standard)
11. No overhead cleaner particularly some spinning machinery (no cleaner)
ON MNS Textile Plc. Weaving Department
1. Waste management problems in preparatory section(warping, winding and sizing)

2. Maintenance problems in weaving section
3. Productivity loss problems in weaving section
4. Material handling and store problem in weaving
5. Size recipe preparation problems and also impact on yarn quality (there is no viscosity test
instrument )
6. Sized yarn quality problems particularly yarn strength
54
7. Shedding height problems on jacquard machine
8. AC problems in weaving section
9. High warp and weft breakage at jacquard loom
10. High warp yarn breakage at doppy machine
11. Inspection system standard problems (there is no inspection system i.e. 4 point and 10 point
system))
12. There is no cleaning device in doubling and twisting machine
13. High worker turn over problems
ON DEBREBERHAN BLANKATE COMPANY Spinning Department
1. Shortage of input materials (wool fiber) or input materials supply problems

2. Mixing problems (cotton Vs. wool)
3. Maintenance problems in spinning
4. AC problems in spinning (relative humidity (RH%) and Temperature )
5. Yarn quality problems particularly count variation
6. Material handling problems in spinning
7. Cleaning problems
8. High waste generation in spinning department
9. Spare part problems (modified spare part )
10. Skill manpower problems(there is no professional persons)
11. Raw material quality problems
ON DEBREBERHAN BLANKATE COMPANY Weaving Department
1. High waste generation in weaving department

2. High weft yarn breakage at loom shed
3. Productivity loss problems in weaving department
4. High waste selvedge in loom shed
5. Design and modification of simple selvedge cutter mechanism in selvedge cutter machine
6. Finished product Market problems (shortage of market for finished products)
7. Labor efficiency problems
8. Inspection system problem(no inspection system) or there is no 4 point and 10 point system
55
9. Fabric quality problems (finished product quality problems )
ON KOMBLOCHA TEXTILE SHARE COMPANY (KTSC) Spinning Department
1. Spare part and maintenance problems on carding machine

2. Blow room machinery cleaning efficiency problem at KTSC
3. High neps generation in marzoline carding machine
4. productivity loss in marzoline carding machine
5. High Yarn quality problems especially imperfection (thin ,thick and neps)
6. Raw materials quality problems especially trash content and sticky properties problems
7. Raw material conditioning problems
8. Bale management problems(cotton mixing)
ON KOMBLOCHA TEXTILE SHARE COMPANY (KTSC) Weaving Department
1. Spare part and maintenance problems in warping and winding machine

2. Sizing recipe preparation problems for the specific yarn count ( optimum size preparation for
each article)
3. Open end yarn not sized by new sizing machine problems (only suitable for ring yarn)
4. productivity loss problems (Both Labor and machine) in weaving
5. High warp yarn breakage at loom shed
6. AC problems in loom shed
7. Productivity in balance problem due to warping machine
ON SAYTEX TEXTILE Spinning Department
1. AC Problems in spinning section

2. Bale management problems (cotton mixing)
3. High waste generation in spinning
4. Poor yarn quality (finished product quality problems)
5. Material handling problem in cone winding machine
6. No store room for finished products
7. No technical persons at all (no skill man power)
8. Plant layout problems and Building not suitable for textile industry
9. Ergonomics problem
56
10. Cleaning and suction problems (There is no suction system and There is no cleaning device)
11. No technology transfer for workers (technology transfer problems)
ON Haji Nhursien and Des Ginning private limited company’s
1. Shortage of raw material problems(the supply of cotton to the company is too low)
2. Low production in ginning machinery
3. Quality of raw material problems (Feeding of the raw material is made manually by sorting
foreign maters like stone (to increase the weight of the packed cotton as the cost is related to
weight), seed ball (immature seed), leaf, packing material fabric, dust, soil and water sprayed
(to increase the weight of the packed cotton as the cost is related to weight) etc.
4. Raw material transportation problems (During transportation of raw cotton from the farm site
to ginning factory it is not covered and exposed to excess dust and There is excessive dust in
the room.)
5. Raw cotton picking problems (No properly picking of cotton during harvesting in the farm
place leads to have higher foreign maters and The picking of raw cotton in the farm is
traditional/manually picking and don’t care for quality of cotton but to collect more cotton.
This results in excess foreign mater including immature seed boll. Leaf, soil, dust, stick and
others are collected together.)
6. Methods of removal of larger size foreign maters during feeding are manual and time
consuming problem.
7. Workers problem (Workers are not controlled by the system)
8. There is no air conditioning systems (Due to excessive dust workers don’t get free working
environment and they are not motivated)
9. Shortage of packing materials (They reuse packing materials, exposed to dust, dirt & waste
fabrics)
10. High workload to the workers problems
11. Spare part and maintenance problems (spare part shortage that leads the machine not to
process properly and Lack of spare specially saw and ribs damage results in less lint quality.)
12. Product complexity problems (There is no product complexity Only lint is produced
otherwise waste)
13. Productivity loss problems both labor and machine
57
14. High waste generation in feeding section (In the feeder position the material is fed manually
and the room has excessive waste which leads the workers not efficiently work)
15. Lint cotton quality problems (The excess foreign maters, dusts, water, stones etc… and the
uncomfortable condition of production line leads to have less lint quality and There is no lint
cotton quality tested instrument (The lint is not tested for quality achievement or No quality
control mechanism in the factory) or Final product quality problems (Raw materials from
many farmers and investors are collected together and mixed in ginning that result in
uncontrollable product quality).
9. Summary
Based on the survey critical problems of the textile industries in particular in relation to textile
manufacturing and ginning is identified. A critical assessment is made and broad thematic areas
are designed. Accordingly the research and dissemination activities of the center from 2012 E.C
onwards will be given special emphasis to go along with the designed thematic areas. The
research and dissemination activity is expected to be carried out by the research groups of the
center with inclusiveness of scholars, teachers and other members based on interdisciplinary
and/or multidisciplinary nature of the particular task.
For successful implementation of the designed thematic areas collaborative work with the
institute, industry and relevant organizations such as government agencies and non-governmental
funders is expected as per the requirement. This kind of collaboration is very important to break
the bridge between universities and industries because based on the observation during the visit
most of the foreign companies have very poor trust in local manpower and their side inclination
will certainly have a negative impact on national development as far as the textile sector is
concerned.
The government shall give higher emphasis and priority on the system of textile investment and
incentivizing scheme based on output delivered by the companies. Otherwise looking into the
economic policy with regards to textile investment has to give top manufacturing sector priority
and reviewed again for clear picture of realization of the GTP. To address the problems in
relation to the industry a common plat form for workshops such as seminars, group meetings and
conferences must be arranged.
58
Furthermore relevant of offices under the institute are also expected to fully facilitate all the
activities as per specific action plan of implantation for the RD thematic areas. Overall by critical
support and evaluation of the research groups the targeted delivery to feasible solution for the
industry problems will be realized as per the requirement and this will make a pivotal role in
making the industries to go in line with the GTP expectations.
59

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Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology

Research Thematic Areas

Produced by: Research Thematic Area Identification Team

‘Diversified and qualified industry support through problem solving and

THE NEED FOR IDENTIFYING RESEARCH THEMATIC AREAS

Supporting those manufacturing companies with scientific researches, innovation and by

I. LEATHER AND LEATHER PRODUCT RELATED THEMATIC AREAS

Theme 1. Human Resource Management

Theme 2. Productivity and Method Study

Theme 3. Marketing and supply chain management in apparel industry.

Sub-theme 3.1. Apparel Marketing

1. Forecasting and marketing strategies

Sub-theme 3.2. Supply chain management in apparel industry.

3.2.1. Communication among value chain partners

Theme 4 Quality Management

Theme 5. Company Wise Research and Sustainable Development Strategies as One of

GARMENT INDUSTRY RELATED THEMATIC AREAS

Theme 1.Human resource management related problems

Sub-theme 1.1 High labor turnover and operator absenteeism

1.1. Reduce labor turnover and operator absenteeism by developing standardized

Theme 2 Productivity and Method Study

Sub-theme 2.1 Manufacturing systems and strategies

This sub-theme focus on studies, identification and developments of different manufacturing

Sub-theme3.1. Quality culture in garment manufacturing industries

3.1.1. Quality philosophy and its effect on competitiveness

3.2.1. Maintenance scheduling mechanism

3.2.2. Preventive maintenance scheduling system for garment manufacturing machineries

3.2.3. Information technology integration with maintenance schedules

3.3.3. Logistics, infrastructure and supply for internal chain

3.3.4. Quality specialists on brand development

Sub-them 3.4. Sizing standard chart for Ethiopian

Theme 5. Research and Development Center

Sub-theme 5.1. R&D towards new products

II. BES RIC RESEARCH THEMATIC AREAS

MAJOR RESEARCH THEMES

Theme-2. Energy and Environment

 Energy efficient process design

 Formulating, developing, and enhancing information technologies

Theme-4. Educational Advancement

Theme-5. Human and Social Development

Industrial Human resource management

III. Textile Chemistry Research and Innovation Center

Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology (EiTEX) is a pioneer institute of

2. About Textile Chemistry Center of Research and Innovation

 Fibre Science and Technology

Mission of Textile Chemistry Center of Research and Innovation Center

3. Background and Rationale for RTDCS Thematic Area Design

Table 1: Assessment of Textile Industries to set up RD theme

S.N Industry Product Type Problems Problem Description

 There is high steam leakage and

 Energy management in sizing

quality and the raw cotton

properties are not carefully check

 High amount of lint fiber

7. Al- 100%  Improper  Raw and manufactured materials

Theme 1. Utilization and Beneficiation of Ethiopian Sheep Fiber

Sub-theme 1.2. Wet-processing conditions and Recipes of Ethiopian Sheep Fiber

Sub-theme 2.2. Advances in Textile Material Processing Research and Development

Sub-theme 3.1. Energy Management in Textile Industry

Sub-Theme 4.1. Shade variation free dyed textile

Sub-theme 6.1 Cost Effective Wet Processing Techniques

IV. Textile production Research and Innovation Center

Research and Dissemination (RD) Thematic Areas