Cocoa Bean Processing and The Products

Magill, Alexia
April 5, 2020
Introduction

Cocoa products like chocolate are used in many different cultures and cuisines

around the world and have been for centuries. Theobromo Cacao is the name of the

tree that produces fruit/pods that contain seeds, which we call cocoa beans.

Theobromo means “food of the gods” named by Carl Linnaeus, a Swedish scientist. It is

an evergreen tree that grows up to 20 feet. The cocoa pods are 6-10 inches long with

roughly an inch thick, leathery rind. Each pod contains anywhere from 20-50 seeds

(beans) which are enclosed in a sweet pulp. There are multiple varieties of the cocoa

tree; the three main varieties are Forastero, Criollo, and Trinitario. Forastero is the most

widely used, comprising 80–90% of the world production of cocoa. Cocoa beans of the

Criollo variety are rarer and considered a delicacy. Criollo farms have lower yields and

tend to be less resistant to several diseases that attack the cocoa plant, which is why

very few countries still produce it. Trinitario is a hybrid between Criollo and Forastero

varieties from Trinidad. It is thought to be a higher quality than Forastero, has higher

yields, and is more resistant to disease than Criollo. Criollo and Trinitario varieties are

considered fine or flavor cocoa and can be up to five times more expensive than

“ordinary cocoa” (Forastero). These trees are grown near the Equator, 20 degrees north

or south, where the hot and humid, tropical climate is suitable for growth. 70% of the

world’s cocoa beans are grown in the four West African countries of Nigeria, Ghana,

Ivory Coast and Cameroon. The world consumption of chocolate is estimated to be at

least 7.2 million metric tons. 2.8 billion pounds of that being consumed in America which

is an average of 11 pounds consumed per person yearly. Around 600 volatile

compounds have been identified as being responsible for taste and aroma in cocoa

products. These include pyrazines, amines, amides, carboxylic acids, esters, and

hydrocarbons. The quantity and type of these volatile compounds in cocoa beans are

the most important aspects of quality which determines the commercial value of cocoa,

and result in the unique and complex tastes and aromas of chocolate. The purpose of

this paper is to share, in detail, the steps of processing cocoa beans, how each step

influences the flavor of cocoa and the numerous products yielded.

Processing

Harvesting

Harvesting typically happens over a course of a few months. In most regions,

harvesting occurs throughout the whole year and isn’t limited to a certain season. Pods

are judged by their color to determine ripeness. Unripe pods are typically green and turn

a yellow-orange when ripened. Unlike other produce, cocoa pods are all handpicked

and one person can harvest up to 650 pods in one day. The pods are cut from the tree

using a curved knife that is attached to a long pole. The pods are then split open,

typically with a machete, to extract the beans and pulp.

Fermentation

The beans are then laid out and covered by tarp or banana leaves or piled in heaps in

baskets or buckets for fermentation. Fermentation techniques vary by region and

grower, but the science of the process remains the same. This process takes 2-6 days.

As the temperature rises, the natural sugars of the pulp react with oxygen and yeast.

The pulp breaks down, liquifies and slits are needed in the baskets or buckets so it can

drain away. In some regions, this sweet, alcoholic liquid is collected and consumed and
can even be used to make a fermented drink such as cocoa bean wine. Most farmers

let fermentation happen naturally, but some do add yeast. Ooi et al performed a

simulation study looking at the influence yeast starter cultures have on antioxidant

activities.1 13 naturally existing yeast strains were isolated and used as a starter culture

and the resulted antioxidant properties of the cocoa beans were determined by total

polyphenols and flavonoids content. The study showed that, “Use of yeast starter

culture in fermentation produces beans with higher antioxidant capacity than natural

fermentation and H. thailandica and P. kudriavzevii are potential yeast starter cultures to

produce higher antioxidant capacity beans than control.”

During fermentation, the physical and chemical composition of the beans

change. The color darkens, acidity decreases, and the beans develop a chocolatey

flavor. The color change is what indicates the final stages of fermentation. Criollo beans

turn a brownish-yellow and Forastero beans become violet-brown in color. Utrilla-

Vazquez et al used five varieties of cocoa beans from Mexico to identify the volatile

compounds during the fermentation and drying processes. 2 They used three Criollo

(Carmelo, Rojo Samuel, Lagarto) and two Trinitario (Arcoiris, Regalo de Dios). The

beans were fermented as described above; fermentation took 6 days. Samples were

taken from each day of fermentation and before and after drying. The volatile

compounds from cocoa samples (2 g) were extracted using the Headspace-Solid Phase

Microextraction Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry technique. 109 compounds

were identified, found in all 5 of the varieties. These were the chemical groups found in

greatest to least quantity: esters (25), aldehydes (21), alcohols (19), ketones (15), and

acids (9), pyrazines (6), furans (4), hydrocarbons (4) and other producing both desirable
and desirable flavors. The dried, unfermented beans had fewer numbers of compounds.

It was determined that, “The quantity and quality of the profile of volatile compounds

depend on the process and not of the cocoa variety.”. The longer the beans ferment,

richer aroma and flavor can be achieved, but they shouldn’t be left for over 8 days.

Longer fermentation has also shown to reduce cadmium concentrations in cacao nibs. 3

Cadmium (Cd) is a common heavy metal found in soil due to the use of phosphate

fertilizers which accumulates in the body and becomes toxic. Vanderschueren et al

performed a study testing the amount of cadmium in different parts of the cacao fruit

and the effects fermentation has on them. Ripe pods were gathered from four different

fields in Ecuador. The pods were separated to obtain pod husk, placenta, mucilage

(thick fluid), nibs and testa (bean shell or covering). Laser ablation inductively coupled

plasma spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) was used to visualize the distribution of Cd in cacao

and x-ray absorption spectroscopy showed Cd bound to O/N-ligands in cacao nib and

testa. The Cd concentrations were overall highest in the testa, followed by the nibs,

placenta and pod husk (all similar in Cd content) and finally the mucilage. Testa Cd

concentrations were higher than nib Cd concentrations in all batches. Considering the

average weight fractions for nib (0.93) and testa (0.07), 91% of the total bean Cd was

located in the nib and 9% in the testa in unfermented cacao beans. During fermentation,

Cd concentrations decreased in the nib but increased in the testa suggesting that Cd

migrates from the nib to the testa and the mucilage during fermentation, resulting in

lower Cd concentrations in the final cacao product. Fermentation is a very important

step and can hinder the harvest if not done properly. If underdone or overdone, the

flavor compounds can be bitter, and the beans can be susceptible to mildew.
Drying

Next step is drying. The beans are spread out on large trays to dry in the sun for

a week until about 7% moisture remains. Gil et al studied the effect of temperature

during the drying process on the formation of acrylamide. 4 Acrylamide is toxic and an

irritant. During drying, the relative humidity, luminosity, temperature, precipitation hours

were recorded morning and night. Acrylamide forms from the Maillard reaction between

fructose or glucose and the amino acid asparagine. The Maillard reaction is a chemical

reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that gives browned, or roasted, food

its distinct flavor. It was previously thought by Gil and colleagues that acrylamide occurs

in significant amounts only at the higher temperatures that are used during the roasting

of cocoa beans. The results from this study showed that the overall process of Maillard

reaction is exergonic and is favorable even at lower temperatures used in the drying

process. Temperature should therefore be monitored. Now that they are dried, they are

easy to snap; this will be helpful in following steps. The beans then go through a

selection process before being exported to buyers and chocolate companies. Pulp

remnants and imperfect beans are hand picked or filtered out. Once sorted through, the

beans are bagged up in burlap sacks and sent out. Beans are transported to

manufacturers dried so the risk for mold and mildew is reduced since the beans are

typically transported overseas to other countries.

Roasting

Once the beans reach the production sites, the beans are roasted before further

processing into the various products. They are roasted about 30-60 minutes at 250-320

degrees Fahrenheit (F). A study by Ciecierska examined polcyclic aromatic

hydrocarbons (PAHs) in roasted cocoa beans collected from nine different regions. 5

PAHs are a class of chemicals that occurs naturally in high temperature cooking or

burning of certain materials like coal, wood, oil, and gas. Roasting beans at 320

degrees F led to PAHs formation. Lowering temperature to 284 °F while extending the

time minimized the total contamination. The results proved significant differences in total

19 PAHs contents between raw cocoa beans of different varieties and origins and the

higher the fat content in the original product, the higher the amounts of PAHs that are

produced during thermal processing. Roasting, alongside alkalization, have shown to be

two important steps in processing that affect the flavor of final cocoa powder. Mohamadi

Alasti et al studied these chemical changes using cocoa beans from Ivory Coast that

have already been fermented and dried. 6 The beans were given an alkaline treatment

with potassium carbonate (50 g/L), increasing the pH from 5.5 up to 7.5-8 at 176-212°F

for 80 min. They were then roasted at 239-248°F for 60-70 min. Twenty-five grams of

the pulverized samples were added to the distilled water (100 ml) and heated for 60 min

using Likens–Nickerson simultaneous distillation–extraction apparatus to extract the

volatile compounds. Pyrazines and esters were two major groups of flavor compounds

formed during the roasting stage by the Maillard reaction. “Pyrazine compounds are the

key type of heterocyclic volatiles and the main components forming the cocoa aroma.

They exhibit nutty, roasty, and earthy aroma.” After the drying and roasting processes,

the beans can easily be cracked open to retrieve the edible cacao nibs.

Winnowing

Winnowing is an agricultural method that uses wind to remove the chaff from a

product. The current of air blows through the cacao nibs and easily separates the chaff
since it is much lighter in weight. This chaff, which was the shell of the cocoa bean, is

one of the cocoa industry byproducts that becomes waste. Handojo et al proposed and

tested the idea of turning it into fiber powder. 7 The shell was obtained from a cocoa

industry in Indonesia with no pretreatment and alkalized to adjust the pH and remove

possible heavy metal such as cadmium, previously mentioned. The possibility for this

powder to substitute other fiber powders on the market (like oat and whole wheat) was

tested by texture profile analysis (TPA) and panelists that tested cookies made from

each powder product. The fiber content was much higher than that of well-known wheat

bran (40%), rice bran (26%), and oat bran (17%). Although it is rich in fiber, cocoa bean

shell powder should be mixed or used as additional substrate only. This is due to the

high amounts of insoluble fibers in cocoa bean shell. It should be mixed/balanced with

soluble ones to meet the requirement of dietary fiber food. In conclusion, powder size

analysis, TPA, and acceptance test showed that the cocoa fiber powder can be

successfully utilized for a substitution or mixing flour.

Products

Cocoa Liquor

Also referred to as chocolate liquor. The cacao nibs are then ground which

produces a thick, dark liquid called cocoa paste. This mixture is melted to become

chocolate liquor, containing equal parts of cocoa solids and cocoa butter. Chocolate

liquor can be molded and cooled to become baking chocolate. Baking chocolate is

unsweetened and not consumed but used in baking, hence the name. Chocolate liquor

can also be pressed separating the cocoa butter from the cocoa solids producing cocoa

powder.
Cocoa Powder

Cocoa powder is also unsweetened and used in many recipes including many

sweet and baked items. It can be used to lower the fat content in baked goods and

contains flavanol antioxidants. There are two forms of cocoa powder: Natural and Dutch

(processed). Natural cocoa powder is acidic with a pH of 5.3-5.8 and is lighter in color

than processed Dutch. It also has a slightly bitter taste. Dutch cocoa powder has been

treated to make it more alkaline. The alkalization process reduces bitterness and

improves solubility, which is important for beverage product usage such as chocolate

milk. Alkalization, alongside roasting, have shown to be two important steps in

processing that affect the flavor of final cocoa powder. It has a neutral pH, mellow

chocolate flavor, and a rich reddish-brown color.

Cocoa Butter

The edible fat in chocolate liquor is cocoa butter, also called Theobroma oil. It is

pale yellow in color and has a cocoa taste and smell. Its melting point is just below

human body temperature. The smooth texture, pleasant fragrance, melting point and

emollient properties of cocoa butter have made it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and

skin products, such as soaps, moisturizing creams and lotions. To continue data from

the study previously mentioned about PAHs…it is known that PAHs accumulate in fat.

Therefore, cocoa butter had the highest amount of contamination. Scientists are still

studying the possible health affects from PAHs. Despite this, cocoa butter is used in

many other products including pharmaceuticals, toiletries, hair products and the biggest

one of them all, chocolate.

Chocolate
 Another product from chocolate liquor, and the most popular cocoa product, is

chocolate. More cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla and sometimes milk, depending on the

kind, are ingredients added to chocolate liquor to produce chocolate. There are three

varieties: dark, milk and white chocolate. They all have different percentages on cocoa

solids. Milk chocolate is the most commonly consumed and preferred. In Europe, milk

chocolate is required to have at least 25% pure cocoa. Dark chocolate has more cocoa

than milk chocolate, at least 35% and goes all the way up to 90% cocoa. It is typically

more bitter and less sweet than milk chocolate. On the other hand, white chocolate

contains no cocoa solids. It is mostly cocoa butter and mixed with same ingredients

(sugar, milk solids/powder, milk fat and sometimes lecithin as an emulsifier). Both milk

and white chocolate having lower boiling points and burn easily which is why they are

not the best to use in baking.

Nutrition

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), 25 g of white chocolate

contains:

 has 146 calories

 10 g of fat

 13 g of carbohydrates, all of which are from sugar

 50 mg of calcium

The USDA estimates that 38 g of milk chocolate, equivalent to about 3 squares,

contains:
  220 calories

 13g of fat

 21g of carbs, 19 g of which come from sugar

 100 mg of calcium

 1.08 mg of iron.

It’s estimated that 28g (1 oz) of 85 percent dark chocolate contains:

 136 calories

 14g of fat

 12g of carbohydrates.

 1g of protein

 2g of fiber

 No sugar

Dark chocolate is the healthiest option out of the 3, offering antioxidants, healthy fats,

fiber, no sugar and essential minerals. Cinquanta et al evaluated various percentages of

dark chocolate (60, 70, 80 and 90) and milk chocolate for their essential mineral

content.8 Metal detection in the samples were found using nitric mineralization and

spectrophotometry plasma emission. The results are shown below in the table.
 8

90% dark chocolate had the highest amount of Magnesium, Phosphorous, Potassium,

Copper, Selenium, Zinc, Chromium and Manganese. Milk chocolate had the highest

amount of calcium due to the milk content. 80% dark chocolate had the most Iron.

Conclusion

Cocoa beans are highly valued and consumed around the world. West Africa is

the largest producer of cocoa beans, followed by South and Central America. There are

many careful steps that go into processing cocoa beans to reach the final products.

Many physical, chemical, and biological factors influence the formation and the

development of the cocoa flavor and aroma. The origin of cocoa beans can influence

the bean’s fat, heavy metal and phenol content. The products from processed cocoa

beans include cacao nibs, chocolate liquor, baking chocolate, cocoa powder, cocoa

butter, white, milk and dark chocolate. Cocoa provides nutritional benefits offering

healthy fat, minerals, antioxidants and even fiber. From these final products, hundreds

of food items are made. Each product has different uses and health benefits, but they

are all used in high demand globally.

Application to Dietetics Practice

Food science is significant in dietetics practice. An important point that this research

showed was that different methods of processing can change the final product, in

positive and negative ways. The undesirable outcomes can even have negatively affect

consumer health. Nutritional content of each chocolate type was evaluated. Dietitians

can agree that dark chocolate is the healthiest form of chocolate containing antioxidants

and having lower sugar and fat content than white and milk chocolate. Additionally,

mindful eating is a recommendation many dietetics give in order to help us slow down,

cherish and thoroughly taste our food. This is a healthy habit to establish; it builds a

healthy relationship with food and eating. One helpful technique with mindful eating is

knowing how your food is sourced, processed and made. Tracing your food from your

plate all the way back to how it was harvested and grown can make us more aware and

grateful. Likewise, taking a square of chocolate and letting it melt in your mouth,

identifying various flavors as mentioned and trying to describe its characteristics and

tones is another fun practice. Many processing techniques and facts have been

discovered about chocolate since its early discovery and use. For the future, since

cocoa is used in such great amounts globally, perhaps some machinery could be

invented for mechanical harvesting to decrease the demand for human workers. Rawel

et al made a great point stating, “Partially processed cocoa beans provide a large

collection of bioactive potentials that could be included in the designing of functional

foods, illuminating an alternative use of cocoa especially in the cocoa-producing

countries to bolster the diets with corresponding positive impact on the health status of

the local populations.”9 New chocolate products are constantly being introduced to the

market. Cocoa is a fascinating, nutritious, and loved food.

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