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2 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural Scotland - The Highlands 3
THE HIGHLANDS
This guide book is one of a series of county-based digital travel guides covering
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F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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The Highlands
THE HIGHLANDS
LOCATOR MAP
John O'Groats
Durness Melvich Thurso Dunnet
Port Nis Freswick When people talk of Scottish scenery, they life, and its environs are reckoned to be the
Balchrick Bettyhill Kirk
(Port of Ness) inevitably mean the scenery of the Highlands - most rapidly growing areas in Britain, if not
Spittal Reiss
Eriboll Tongue Dalhalvaig
Fanagmore Westerdale
Wick mountains, deep glens and dark, brooding Europe. Seen from the A9 as you head over
Forsinain
Scourie
a Syre Forsinaird
Ulbster lochs. The Highlands area has no set the Kessock Bridge, it has all the appearance
) Steornabhagh Culkein Kylestrome
Altnaharra Latheron boundaries, and some places described in of a large metropolis, with suburbs that sprawl
(Stornoway) b
Unapool Kinbrace Borgue earlier chapters, such as Aberdeen and along the Moray and Beauly Firths. But in fact,
Crask Inn
Crosbost Lochinver
Inverkirkaig c
Inchnadamph
Shinness Helmsdale Grampian, Argyllshire and parts of Perthshire, its population is no more than 50,000, though
Reiff
h
d Lothmore
can lay claim to being in the Highlands as well. this is growing almost daily, with plans recently
Lairg
Achiltibuie
Strathcanaird Rosehall But the area described in this chapter has the announced for the building of a huge new
e
Brora
Ullapool
Golspie same boundaries as the local government area, suburb to the west of the city. And some of
Inverasdale
Laide
Dundonnell
f Bonar Bridge
Dornoch and can legitimately be called the true heart of the countryside surrounding it looks more like
Tain
Poolewe g Hill of Fearn the Highlands. the Lowlands than the Highlands, though this
Gairloch The capital of the Highlands is Inverness. It notion is soon dispelled if you head southwest
Staffin h Evanton Cromarty
Lossiemouth
Buckie along the A82 towards Loch Ness.
Kinlochewe Garve is a thriving city with an enviable quality of
Uig FortroseNairn Forres
Elgin
Dingwall
Achnasheen Dallas
Applecross
Torridon
K Beauly Croy
Dunphail
Keith
Rothes
Portree MORAY
Lochcarron
L Inverness
Struy Ferness
Towns and Villages

Dava Dufftown B
Stromeferry Cannich
Kyle of Lochalsh i Drumnadrochit Tomatin Grantown- on-Spey
Dornie HIGHLAND
Broadford
Shiel
j
Invermoriston
Foyers Carrbridge Auchnarrow Please click on any of the towns and villages
Aviemore
Elgol Bridge
k listed below for information on that location.
Ardvasar Kincraig
Invergarry
Kinloch Mallaig l Kingussie
Laggan Insh
Ballater Achnacarry pg 10 Fort Augustus pg 10 Latheron pg 37
Altnaharra pg 38 Fort George pg 23 Lochinver pg 34
Cleadale
Arisaig m
Spean Braemar
Ardnamurchan pg 12 Fort William pg 7 Mallaig pg 14
Bridge Dalwhinnie
Galmisdale Lochailort
Fort William
n Spittal of
Tarfside Arisaig pg 14 Fortrose pg 18 Morvern pg 13
Glenuig Clova Aviemore pg 27 Gairloch pg 33 Nairn pg 23
Acharacle o Dalnacardoch Glenshee
Ballachulish pg 11 Glenfinnan pg 13 Nethy Bridge pg 25
Glenborrodale Glencoe p Rannoch
Killiekrankie
Kirkmichael ANGUS Beauly pg 30 Golspie pg 21 Salen pg 13
Tobermory Ballachulish Station Pitlochry Brora pg 21 Grantown-on-Spey pg 26 Spean Bridge pg 9
Forfar
q Bridge Aberfeldy Dunkeld Carrbridge pg 26 Helmsdale pg 37 Strathpeffer pg 31
Portnacroish of Balgie
Coupar Angus Cawdor pg 25 Inverness pg 16 Strontian pg 13
Craignure r A l
Cromarty pg 18 John O’Groats pg 41 Tain pg 19
Culloden pg 25 Kingussie pg 27 Thurso pg 39
s Dingwall pg 30 Kinlochleven pg 11 Tomatin pg 25
t Dornoch pg 21 Kyle of Lochalsh pg 15 Tongue pg 38
Drumnadrochit pg 29 Laggan pg 10 Ullapool pg 32
u Durness pg 34 Lairg pg 23 Wick pg 34
v
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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Within the
Fort William It was from Fort William that thousands of
THE HIGHLANDS
Highlands you’ll Scots sailed for the New World during that time
find Scotland’s J West Highland Way D Ben Nevis D Glen Nevis known as the Clearances. In the early 19th
most famous B Glen Nevis Visitor Centre E Underwater Centre century, landowners could squeeze more profit
features. Ben Nevis, from their estates if it had sheep on it instead
B West Highland Museum H Treasures of the Earth
Scotland’s highest of people, so Highlanders were evicted from
mountain, is here, A Inverlochy Castle J Great Glen Way their cottages and small parcels of land. Some
as is Loch Morar, a C Neptune’s Staircase D Jacobite Steam Train settled on the coast, and some emigrated.
the country’s It was the coming of the railway in 1866
deepest loch. The b The small town of Fort William lies at the
that established Fort William as one of the
western end of Glen Mor (meaning the
northern tip of c Great Glen), in an area known as Lochaber. Highland’s main centres for tourism, and it
Loch Ness, d Though it is small, in the summer months it has remained so to this day. A few miles east
undoubtedly the of the town is Ben Nevis, at 4406 feet,
most famous
e Eilean Donan Castle, Kyle of Lochalsh can paradoxically get crowded with visitors
all seeking the genuine, uncrowded Britain’s highest mountain. The five-mile
stretch of water in f climb to the top, along a well-trodden path, is
Highlands. It is the northern terminus of the
Europe, is a few miles from Inverness, and g the small, has a medieval cathedral, so is more of a
95-mile long West Highland Way, which fairly easy if you’re reasonably fit. It can also
last full battle on British soil was fought at city than a town, and Strathpeffer was once a get crowded at times. The summit is reached
h snakes through Western Scotland from
Culloden. Here too, is Glencoe, scene of the thriving spa town, with regular trains by way of Glen Nevis, often called
Milngavie on the outskirts of Glasgow. The
infamous massacre, as well as John O’ Groats, connecting it to Edinburgh and London. Scotland’s most beautiful glen, though there
fort referred to in the town’s name was built
Aviemore, Skye, Fort William, Cape Wrath K and Between the east and west coasts are the are other contenders for the title. The
by General Monk in the 1650s, then rebuilt
Plockton, the setting for the books and TV L mountains, the lochs, the tumbling streams rewards of the climb are immense. The
during the reign of William III to house a
series Hamish Macbeth. and the deep glens. The scenery can be austere Cairngorms can be seen, as can the Cuillin
i garrison of 600 troops to keep the Highland
The west coast is rugged, with sea lochs and gaunt, but never anything less than clans in order. At that time it was renamed range on Skye and the peaks of Argyllshire.
that penetrate deep into the mountains. j beautiful. No Gulf Stream here, and in some Maryburgh, after William’s queen. Only parts On an exceptionally clear day even the coast
Settlements are few and far between, and most k sheltered corners, snow lies on well into the of the town wall survive, as most of it was of Northern Ireland can be glimpsed
of them are to be found on the coast. Some year. Glencoe, Nevis and Aviemore take through binoculars. At the Glen Nevis
l dismantled in the 19th century to make way
visitors to the west coast of the Highlands are advantage of this by being skiing centres, for the West Highland Railway. Visitor Centre there are exhibits about local
amazed at the sub-tropical plants, such as palmm though of late, snow has been in short supply. heritage and wildlife, and, importantly,
trees, that seem to thrive here. It’s all down n
to In Caithness and Sutherland - Scotland’s two information about the
the Gulf Stream, which warms the shores and northernmost counties - you’ll find the Flow weather on
o
makes sure that snow is not as common as you Country, mile upon mile of low peaks, high the mountain.
would imagine. p moorland and small lochans. This is not the Aonach Beag (4058 feet)
The east coast, from Nairn to Inverness q dramatic scenery of the West Highlands where and Aonach Mor (3999 feet)
then north to John O’ Groats, is gentler, with r mountain seems to pile on mountain, but it has are Ben Nevis’s little
many more settlements. Dornoch, though a ruggedness and grandeur of its own. brothers, rising just over a
s
mile to the east. In the
t winter this is a skiing area,
u but it is equally popular in
the summer. Britain’s only
v
mountain gondola takes you
half way up the range to a
Inverlochy Castle, Fort William
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TORLINNHE GUEST HOUSE LOCHABER FARM SHOP,
THE HIGHLANDS
Achintore Road, Fort William PH33 6RW CRAFTS & CAFÉ
Tel: 01397 702583 Aonach Mhor Road, Torlundy,
e-mail: info@torlinnhe.co.uk Fort William PH33 6SW
website: www.torlinnhe.co.uk Tel: 01397 708 686
Set on the shore of Loch Linnhe, just over a e-mail: info@lochaberfarmshop.com
mile from Fort William’s town centre, website: www.lochaberfarmshop.com
Torlinnhe Guest House is owned by Andy a Set in the shadow of Ben Nevis, 5 miles north of Fort
and Sue Keen who purchased the property in
William, Lochaber Farm Shop, Crafts & Café occupies a
b
February 2008 and after an initial 3-month refurbishment
smart modern building and was established by Alison and
opened the new style guest house in June. They have
c
completely re-modelled the ground floor with a brand new
Alasdair Macintosh in June 2004 to sell their home-reared
lamb, mutton, beef and free range pork. The lamb is
d
kitchen and the creation of a large oak-floored guest lounge
naturally reared and is either Blackface, Texel or
which enjoys spectacular views of the loch. An eco-friendly
Charollais. The animals are grazed only on grass and
e
wood pellet burning stove in the lounge provides all their hot
heather as nature intended. Similarly, their Tamworth pigs
water and heating. Andy and Sue also refurbished three of
f
their six rooms to Visit Scotland 4-star standard. All of the
are free to dig and forage, living outside with access to
shelter when needed. Most of the beef on sale comes
g
rooms have a 26-inch digital TV, DVD player, hospitality
from the Arisaig Estate where they rear Luing bullocks for
tray and there is wi-fi access throughout.
the shop. The beef is beautifully marbled and tender,
h
Breakfast at Torlinnhe is definitely something to look forward to. To start, there is a substantial having been hung for at least 17 days.
buffet with the usual cereals, fruit juices etc., plus Highland muesli, fruit dishes and usually
The ethos of the Farm Shop carries through to the café where local, Fairtrade, organic and free
pastries, croissants and yoghurts. These are followed by either a freshly cooked traditional
range produce is used wherever possible. The café serves morning coffee/brunch, lunches and
K
breakfast, a creamy Scottish Salmon Scramble & oatcakes, or Sue’s breakfast twist on Cranachan,
afternoon tea.
Scottish Raspberries & Oatmeal, heather honey and thick Greek-style yogurt. Irresistible!
L
Glasgow. It is also the western terminus for journey that has some of the most beautiful
restaurant and bar, and there are several i large aquarium. You can even take dives
the Great Glen Way, which opened in 2002. scenery in Britain.
walks to enjoy when you get there. j yourself and get guided tours round the
This is another long distance footpath that
adjacent diver training centre.
Within the town, in Cameron Square, is the
West Highland Museum, with exhibits and
k
The impressive ruins of 13th-century
follows the Great Glen and Loch Ness, Around Fort William
ending at Inverness, 73 miles away.
displays about the area. The most famous l Inverlochy Castle (Historic Scotland) stand
exhibit is the 18th-century Secret Portraitmof one-and-a-half miles north east of Fort
Fort William is also where the Caledonian SPEAN BRIDGE
Canal begins. It is not one uninterrupted 8 miles NE of Fort William on the A82
Prince Charles Edward Stuart. It is a n William. It was built by the Comyn family in
canal, but a series of canals connecting Loch
meaningless swirl of colours, which, when the 13th century on the site of an even earlier H Commando Memorial H Spean Bridge Mill
reflected onto a polished cylinder, gives a o
Lochy, Loch Oich and Loch Ness (see
fort, though the ruins you see now date from C Battle of Mulroy
Drumnadrochit for details of Loch Ness).
likeness of the Prince. There are also somep much later. It was here that Montrose had an
Neptune’s Staircase at Banavie, near Fort It would seem logical to assume that this
pieces of eight brought up from the Spanish q important victory over the Campbells, who
William, was designed and built by Thomas attractive village was named after the bridge
galleon that sank in Tobermory Bay. On the were Covenanters, in 1645.
A830 at Corpach, northwest of the town, is
r Telford in the early 1800s, and takes the canal over the River Spean that Thomas Telford
Not far away, on the A82, is the 174-year-
s through a series of eight locks while raising it built here in 1819. In fact it is actually named
the award-winning Treasures of the Earth, old Ben Nevis Distillery and Whisky Centre,
over 60 feet. after the bridge, a mile and a half to the west,
t
one of Europe’s finest collections of crystals which has conducted tours. One of its
In the summer months, the Jacobite that was built by General Wade in the 1740s.
and gemstones. products is a blend of whiskies called The
u Steam Train travels the famous Fort William That bridge survived until 1913 when part of
The Underwater Centre, on the banks of Dew of Ben Nevis.
Loch Linnhe. was opened in 2003, and costv
to Mallaig line. It passes along the northern it collapsed into the river 100 feet below.
Fort William is the northern terminus of
shores of Loch Eil - a continuation of Loch It was around Spean Bridge that
£2.3m. It features marine life (including more the West Highland Way, a long distance
Linnhe after it turns westward - on a 45-mile commandos trained during World War II, and
than 42 species of fish) and diving shows in a footpath that starts at Milngavie just outside
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they are remembered by the Commando LAGGAN developed as an industrial
THE HIGHLANDS
Memorial. It was designed by the sculptor 19 miles NE of Fort William on the A82 village in the early 20th
Scott Sutherland, and depicts three commando C Battle of the Shirts century when the North
soldiers. It was unveiled by the late Queen British Aluminium Company
Mother in 1952. The Spean Bridge Mill, Laggan sits between Loch Lochy and Loch built the Blackwater reservoir
which is nearby, has demonstrations of tartan Oich, two of the lochs that make up the and a hydro electric scheme
weaving as well as a clan tartan centre. At Roy Caledonian Canal. It was here, in 1544, that to power an aluminium
Bridge the Battle of Mulroy was fought a in the Battle of the Shirts took place, fought smelter, which was the largest
1688 between the MacDonnells and the between Clan Fraser and the combined forces in the world at the time.
Macintoshes, with the MacDonnells beingb the of Clan Ranald and Cameron. It was fought Before that, it had been two
c
victors. It was the last great inter-clan battle on a hot summer’s day, and the clansmen small villages called
fought in the Highlands, and the last one d on removed their plaids and fought in their shirts. Kinlochmore and
British soil where bows and arrows were used. There were many casualties, including the Killochbeag. The
A cairn marks the spot.
e chief of Clan Fraser and his son. Aluminium Story Visitor
f FORT AUGUSTUS Centre on Linnhe Road at
ACHNACARRY
g
9 miles NE of Fort William on a minor road off 28 miles NE of Fort William on the library tells the story of
the smelting works right up
the B8005 h the A82
until the year 2000. Outside
B Clan Cameron Museum D Loch Arkaig B Caledonian Canal Heritage Centre the centre is a giant sundial
Pleasure Boat on Caledonian Canal, Fort Angustus
From 1665 Achnacarry Castle was the homeKof
E Highland and Rare Breeds Croft designed by blacksmith
Cameron of Locheil, known as Gentle Locheil, L B Clansman Centre catering holiday apartments. Robert Hutcheson that takes its inspiration
one of Charles Edward Stuart’s most ardent Fort Augustus is bisected by the Caledonian from the area’s history and scenery.
i This small village on the shore of Loch Ness
Canal and within the village itself is a flight of The Ice Factor on Leven Road is Britain’s
supporters. After 1745, it was burned down by was originally named after St Cummein who
Hanoverian troops. Locheil’s family was j built a church here. The current name
locks that provide a fascinating place to watch premier indoor mountaineering centre, and
banished from the country, but they were k followed the building of a fort, Fort Augustus,
the world go by. The Caledonian Canal features the world’s largest indoor ice
Heritage Centre is located in a converted climbing wall, as well as Britain’s largest
allowed to return in 1784 when they built a new l as part of the government’s attempt to quash
home nearby. In 1942, the Cameron chief had all further opposition from Jacobite supporters lock keeper’s cottage near these locks through articulated rock climbing wall. There is also a
m
to leave his home once again, when it was taken which boats pass into Loch Ness. The Centre children’s activity zone, audiovisual lecture
after the defeat of the 1715 uprising. The fort
n
over by the British army as a training centre for took its name from King George II’s younger explains the history and uses of the canal. theatre, steam room, plunge pool and hot
The Highland and Rare Breeds Croft is tub, and a cafeteria and restaurant.
commandos. o son, Prince William Augustus, who became
A 17th-century white-washed single storey better known as the Duke of Cumberland, or on Auchterawe Road, and here you can see
p Highland cattle, red deer and rare breeds of
BALLACHULISH
croft house close to where the original ‘Butcher’ Cumberland, because of the ruthless 10 miles S of Fort William on the A82
Achnacarry once stood now houses the Clan q carnage at the bloody battle of Culloden. sheep; at the Clansman Centre, housed in an
F James of the Glen F Massacre of Glencoe
Cameron Museum, which has displays, r Today, almost nothing remains of the original old school, there are presentations on ancient
charts and exhibits relating to the history ofs fort, parts of which were incorporated into Highland life. D Three Sisters B Glencoe Visitor Centre
the clan and to the commandos who trained Fort Augustus Abbey when it was built in B Glencoe and North Lorn Folk Museum
t KINLOCHLEVEN
here during the Second World War. A minor 1876. The community of monks was unable 10 miles SE of Fort William on the B863 The area surrounding Ballachulish
road takes you past the museum and along the u to sustain itself and left in 1998. Surrounded
B Aluminium Story Visitor Centre I Ice Factor (“settlement near the narrows”) was once
lovely banks of Loch Arkaig, finally petering v on three sides by waters of the Caledonian
famous for its slate quarries. There are actually
out near its western end. Canal, Loch Ness and the river Tarff, the This little town sits at the head of Loch two villages separated by the waters of Loch
abbey is currently being converted into self- Leven and is on the West Highland Way. It was Leven - North Ballachulish and Ballachulish
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itself. They were once connected by ferry, Glencoe village itself, the Glencoe and North boat. Nowadays, in summer, a ferry connects Kinlochaline Castle (private) stands at the
THE HIGHLANDS
which stopped running in 1975 when a Lorn Folk Museum has exhibits about the it to Tobermory on Mull. head of Loch Aline, and was once the
bridge was built. history of the area and its people. A few miles North of Salen, on the edge of ancestral home of Clan MacInnes. The clan
Ballachulish straggles along the southern About nine miles east of Glencoe, on a the area known as Moidart, are the ruins of takes a special pride in being one of the few
shore of Loch Leven. To the west of the minor road off the A82, is the Glencoe skiing Castle Tioram (pronounced Chirrum). The clans in Scotland without a chief. The last
village a cairn marks the spot where Jacobite area with a chair lift that is open in the castle stands on a small island and was originally one, and all his family, was butchered by
sympathiser James of the Glen was hanged summer months, and gives wonderful views built in the 14th century by Lady Anne John, Lord of the Isles, in 1354 at
for a crime he did not commit. He was found a over Glencoe and Rannoch Moor. MacRuari, whose son Ranald gave his name to Ardtornish Castle, the ruins of which can
guilty of the murder of Colin Campbell, Clan Ranald. It was burnt by the Jacobites in still be seen a few miles from Lochaline.
known as the Red Fox and a government
b ARDNAMURCHAN 1715 to prevent it being used by Hanoverian The narrow B849 from Lochaline (with
agent, by a Campbell judge and jury. Robert c 30 miles W of Fort William forces, and has been a ruin ever since. passing places) follows the shores of the
Louis Stevenson used the incident in hisd A Mingary Castle A Castle Tioram At the head of Loch Moidart is a line of Sound of Mull as far as Drimmin, and makes
book Kidnapped. Another cairn marks the site five beech trees. Originally there were seven, a wonderful drive.
e E Seven Men of Moidart
of the murder. which were known as the Seven Men of
f
To the east of Ballachulish, on the A82, is
The B8007 leaves the A861 at Salen (where a
Moidart. They commemorate the seven men
SALEN
small inlet of Loch Sunart is usually crowded 27 miles W of Fort William on the A861
one of the most evocative places in Scotlandg- who landed with Charles Edward Stuart and
with picturesque yachts) and takes you E Claish Moss
Glencoe. It was here, in 1691, that the h sailed with him up Loch Shiel. They were
westwards onto the Ardnamurchan Peninsula.
infamous Massacre of Glencoe took place. originally planted in the early 19th century. Salen sits on the shore of Loch Sunart. Three
It is single track all the way, so great care
Because of bad weather, McIan of Clan miles east (not accessible by road) is Claish
should be taken. It heads for Ardnamurchan STRONTIAN
MacDonald had failed to take the oath of K Moss, a good example of a Scottish raised
Point and its lighthouse, the most westerly 20 miles SW of Fort William on the A861
allegiance to William III before the deadline,L bog. Water is held in the peat, and the
point of the British mainland, and in doing so
and a party of Campbell troops were sent to E Ariundle Oakwoods
i passes some wonderful scenery. landscape is dotted with lochans, or pools.
Glencoe to massacre his people. They Strontian (pronounced Stron - teeh - an, and The peat has preserved seeds and pollen for
pretended at first to come in peace, and werej At Glenborrodale you can see the late-
thousands of years, so it is of interest to
Victorian Glenborrodale Castle, the home meaning point of the fairies) sits in an area
offered hospitality. But in the early hours ofk known as Sunart, which lies to the south of biologists researching the flora of the
from 1933 to 1949 of Jesse Boot, founder of
February 13th, they set about systematically l Loch Shiel. The village gave its name to the Western Highlands.
the chain of chemists. It was built in the early
killing McIan’s people - men, women and metal strontium, which was discovered in 1791
children - with few escaping. A monumentm
20th century for C D Rudd, who made his GLENFINNAN
in in the local lead mines by a chemist called
fortune in diamonds in South Africa. The
the shape of a tall Celtic cross commemorates n Adair Crawford. A few years later, Sir
13 miles W of Fort William on the A830
castle is now available for weddings and other
the gloomy event. o Humphrey Davie gave it its name. A Charles Edward Stuart Monument
functions.
Glencoe, further east than the village, is a
p At Kilchoan there are the ruins of Mingary To the north of the village are the Ariundle B Glenfinnan Station Museum
wild, beautiful place though it does get Oakwoods, a national nature reserve.
crowded in summer months with hikers andq
Castle, a stronghold of Clan MacIan before It was here, at the northern tip of Loch Shiel,
passing to the Campbells. It was visited by Scotland’s fourth longest freshwater loch, that
climbers. On the north side is Aonach Eagach, r James IV in 1493 on one of his expeditions to
MORVERN
a long ridge, and on the south side, the threes 24 miles SW of Fort William Charles Edward Stuart raised his standard in
subdue the Western Isles. It was briefly used in 1745, watched by 1200 Highland followers,
peaks of Beinn Fhada, Gearr Aonach and A Ardtornish Castle
Aonach Dhu, known as the Three Sisters. t
the 2002 movie Highlander: Endgame. Kilchoan after having been rowed a short distance up
is Britain’s most westerly mainland village, and Morvern is that area of the mainland that lies the loch from the house of MacDonald of
About 14,000 acres within Glencoe are nowu
up until 1900, when the B8007 was immediately north of the island of Mull. The Glenaladale on the western shores. The
owned by the National Trust for Scotland, and v constructed, it was also Britain’s most A884 leaves the A861 east of Strontian and Charles Edward Stuart Monument
it has set up the Glencoe Visitor Centre,
inaccessible, as it could only be reached by travels down through it as far as Lochaline, (National Trust for Scotland) was erected in
which tells the story of the massacre. In
on the Sound of Mull. The restored 1815 by Alexander MacDonald of Glenaladale
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to commemorate the event. A small visitors A cairn now marks the spot. featuring the
THE HIGHLANDS
centre nearby tells the story. Purpose-built in 1999, the Land, Sea and districts of Morar,
The Glenfinnan Station Museum, which Islands Centre, set in a stunning location in Knoydart and
lies on the Fort William to Mallaig line, tells the village, has exhibits and displays about the Arisaig. The
of the building of the line by Robert history and wildlife of the area including Mallaig Marine
McAlpine (known as Concrete Bob) in the information on crofting, fishing, church history, World Aquarium
late 19th and early 20th centuries. The marine life, the SOE and the films made here - and Fishing
museum’s restaurant and tearoom is a a Local Hero being one of the most famous. Exhibition sits
restored 1950s’ railway carriage. beside the harbour,
b MALLAIG and tells the story
ARISAIG c 31 miles NW of Fort William on the A830 of Mallaig’s fishing
29 miles W of Fort William on the A830
d B Mallaig Heritage Centre industry and the
B Land, Sea and Islands Centre marine life found in
e E Mallaig Marine World Aquarium
the waters of Eilean Donan Castle, Kyle of Lochalsh
The tiny village of Arisaig has wonderful f Mallaig, Britain’s most westerly mainland port, Western Scotland.
views across to the islands of Rum and Eigg. is a busy fishing port and the terminal of a
Southeast of the village is Loch nan Uamh,g Most of the live exhibits were caught by local Balmacara Estate and Lochalsh Woodland
ferry connecting the mainland to Armadale on fishermen. Garden at Lochalsh House, with sheltered
h
where, on July 25 1745, Charles Edward Stuart Skye. It is also the end of the Road to the Isles
Southeast of the town is water of another walks beside the shores of Loch Alsh, as well
first set foot on the Scottish mainland. After and the western terminus for the Jacobite
sort - Loch Morar, which is Britain’s deepest as mature woodlands and a variety of shrubs,
his campaign to restore the Stuart dynasty Steam Train. The Mallaig Heritage Centre
K
failed, he left for France from the same shore. fresh water loch. It plunges to a depth of 1077 such as rhododendrons, bamboo, ferns,
on Station Road has displays and exhibits fuchsias and hydrangeas. There is a small
L feet - if you were to stand the Eiffel Tower on
the bottom, its top would still be 90 feet below visitors centre at the square in Balmacara, just
GINGER i the surface. A minor road near Morar village, off the A87. Also centred on Kyle of
Morar, Highland PH40 4PA j Lochalsh is Seaprobe Atlantis, a glass-
south of Mallaig, takes you to its shores. Like
Tel: 01687 462655 bottomed boat that takes you out into the
e-mail: anna@ginger-morar.com k Loch Ness, it has a monster, nicknamed
Morag, which, judging by people who have Marine Special Area of Conservation and
website: www.ginger-morar.com l shows you the rich diversity of marine life in
Anna Skea has been designing and
claimed to see it, looks remarkably like Nessie.
manufacturing knitwear since 1980 and now
m the waters surrounding Scotland.
KYLE OF LOCHALSH
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retails her high quality hand-finished clothes at Six miles east of the village is one of the
Ginger in the coastal village of Morar. Anna’s 40 miles NW of Fort William on the A87 most photographed castles in Scotland,
work is very individual, aimed at the customer o
E Lochalsh Woodland Garden E Seaprobe Atlantis Eilean Donan Castle, which stands on a
who likes to wear something a little bit
different. Her inspiration comes from the rock
p A Eilean Donan Castle E Five Sisters of Kintail small island connected to the mainland by a
formations, seashore and living environment q of bridge. Its name (Donan’s Island) comes from
the Highlands, with colours and textures C Battle of Glen Shiel A Strome Castle
r the legend that St Donan lived on the island as
reflecting these sources. E Craig Highland Farm
Anna’s knitwear and clothes are designedsand crafted in the workshop, using colour and
a hermit. He was killed during a Viking raid on
texture in a distinctive way. Some of the work is hand-painted or printed. The yarns are natural Kyle of Lochalsh was once the mainland the island of Eigg in 617AD. Parts of the
and sustainable and are spun from wool, silk, tlinen, viscose and cotton in various mixes. Felted terminus of a ferry that made the short castle date back to 1220 when it was built by
pieces use wool sourced in the Highlands. Most of the work is hand-crafted and all pieces are hand
finished and washed. Customers often remark u that the quality of craftsmanship means that a journey across Loch Alsh to Skye. Now the Alexander II and given to an ancestor of the
graceful Skye Bridge has superseded it (for Mackenzies who fought beside him at the
v The business occupies what was once a car
Ginger piece remains a favourite for many years.
Skye see the Inner Hebrides chapter). Three Battle of Largs. The castle was left in ruins for
showroom but has now been transformed into a colourful work and display area where clothing,
mostly knitwear, is designed, manufactured and sold to the public. The showroom is open all year miles east of the village, on the A87, is the 200 years until it was purchased in 1911 by Lt-
round, from Monday to Saturday.
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Col John Macrae Gilstrap who spent some 20

Inverness Castle after the uprising of 1715, and its built. The interior is more spacious than the
THE HIGHLANDS
years carrying out a complete restoration garrison surrendered to Charles Edward exterior suggests, and is notable for a
before opening it to the public in 1932. It is A Inverness Castle G Fiona MacDonald Stuart when he occupied the town in 1745. beautiful oak choir screen separating the nave
now the ancestral home of Clan MacRae, and A Town House A Tolbooth Steeple Wade then ordered the castle to be blown up. from the choir. The Eden Court Theatre,
has a small clan museum. The castle has also Close to the present castle is a statue of next to the cathedral, incorporates parts of
B Inverness Museum & Art Gallery
featured in many films, most notably The World Flora MacDonald, who helped Charles the old Bishop’s Palace.
is Not Enough and Highlander. A Abertarff House A Dunbar’s Hospital Edward Stuart evade capture. The Old High Church in Church Street,
If you continue eastwards along the A87 a A Inverness Cathedral A Old High Church Near the castle, in Bridge Street, is the dedicated to St Mary, is Inverness’s parish
you will eventually arrive at Shiel Bridge, at the A Old Gaelic Church A Victorian Market Town House, which was completed in 1882. church and was built in 1770, though parts
head of Loch Duich. To the southeast is Glen
b It was in the council chamber here, in 1921, of the tower may date from medieval times.
E Dolphins and Seals Centre
c
Shiel, where five peaks, called the Five Sisters that the only cabinet meeting ever held After the battle of Culloden, the church was
of Kintail (National Trust for Scotland) d Inverness is the capital of the Highlands. It is outside London took place, when Lloyd used as a jail for Jacobite soldiers, some of
overlook the picturesque glen. Close by is the said to be the most rapidly expanding city in George, the Prime Minister, wanted to whom were executed in the kirkyard. It is
e Britain, if not Europe, and though it only has
site of the Battle of Glen Shiel, fought in discuss the worsening Ireland situation. said to be built on a site where St Columba
1719 between a Hanoverian Army and a force f a population of about 50,000, its hinterland Across from it is the Tolbooth Steeple, once preached. The Old Gaelic Church was
of Jacobites (which included 300 Spaniards).gIt supports a further 20,000. The town has all dating from the late 18th century. It was once originally built in 1649, though the present
was the last battle fought on British soil h the feel and bustle of a much larger place, part of a complex of buildings that building dates from a rebuilding of 1792.
between British and foreign soldiers, and it and its shopping - especially in the contained a courthouse and jail. In Castle Inverness is one of the few Scottish towns
had no clear victor. There is a Countryside pedestrianised High Street, where the Wynd, in a modern building, is Inverness to have retained its traditional market, and
Centre (National Trust for Scotland) at K Eastgate Shopping Centre is located - is Museum and Art Gallery, which has a large the indoor Victorian Market in the
Morvich Farm, off the A87, and it makes aL superb. collection relating to the history of the Academy Street building dates from 1890,
good starting point for walking on some of The city sits at the northeast end of the Highlands and the town in particular. Within when it was rebuilt after a disastrous fire.
the surrounding hills and mountains.
i Great Glen, at a point where the River Ness the library, behind the bus station, is the The magnificent Kessock Bridge, opened
Northeast of Kyle of Lochalsh is the j enters the Moray Firth. It was once the Highland Archives and Genealogy Centre, in 1982, carries the A9 over the narrows
conservation village of Plockton, with its palmk capital of the Northern Picts, and it was to where you can research your forebears. between the Moray and Beauly Firths and
trees and idyllic location. This was the Inverness that St Columba came in the 6th The oldest secular building in the city is
l century to confront King Brude MacMaelcon
connects Inverness to the Black Isle. At
Lochdubh of Hamish Macbeth fame, as it was Abertarff House in Church Street (National North Kessock is the Dolphins and Seals
here that the TV series was filmed. It sits m and convert him and his kingdom to Trust for Scotland), which dates from 1593. of the Moray Firth Visitor and Research
beside Loch Carron, and on the opposite n Christianity. The doors of Brude’s fort were It was built as a town house for the Frasers Centre. The Moray Firth is famous for its
bank, opposite Strome Ferry and a few miles firmly closed, but Columba marked them
o with the sign of the cross and they flew open
of Lovat, and is now the local headquarters bottlenose dolphins, and boats leave from
inland off a minor road, are the ruins of for the National Trust for Scotland. many small ports so that you can observe
Strome Castle (National Trust for Scotland).
p of their own accord. Dunbar’s Hospital is also on Church Street, them. This visitor centre gives you one of the
It was built in the 15th century, and was a q The present Inverness Castle dates from and dates from 1668. It was founded by best opportunities in Europe to learn about
stronghold of the MacDonalds, Lords of ther 1835, and houses the local courthouse. provost Alexander Dunbar as a hospital for the creatures, and to listen to them through
Isles. On Craig Highland Farm, near the Castles have stood on the site since at least the poor. It has now been divided into flats. underwater microphones.
s the 12th century. However, Macbeth’s castle,
village, you can view rare breeds, as well as Inverness Cathedral, dedicated to A few miles west of the town at Kirkhill is
feed the farmyard animals t where Shakespeare set the murder of St Andrew, is a gem of a building in pink the Highland Wineries, based around
Kyle of Lochalsh is the western terminusu Duncan, stood some distance away, where sandstone designed by Alexander Ross and Moniack Castle, an old Fraser stronghold
for the famous Dingwall to Kyle of Lochalsh people have claimed to have seen the ghost
v of Duncan in full kingly attire close to the
consecrated in 1874. It was supposed to have dating from 1580. There are country wines,
railway line (see Dingwall). had two large spires, but these were never liqueurs, preserves and sauces.
River Ness. General Wade enlarged Inverness
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Around Inverness Ross and Cromarty was one of the counties TAIN Glenmorangie Distillery, Tain
THE HIGHLANDS
of Scotland lost in the local government 23 miles N of Inverness on the A9
reforms of 1975. Originally, it was two B Tain Through Time A Tain Tolbooth
CROMARTY
counties, which were amalgamated in 1889.
16 miles NE of Inverness on the A832 In medieval times, Tain was a great Christian
A Hugh Miller’s Cottage FORTROSE centre, drawing pilgrims from all over Europe
8 miles NE of Inverness on the A832 to the shrine of St Duthac within St Duthac
B Cromarty Courthouse Museum
A Fortrose Cathedral E Chanonry Point Collegiate Church. One of the finest medieval
This picturesque small royal burgh, whicha buildings in the Highlands, the church is now
F Brahan Seer B Groam House Museum
b
received its charter in the 13th century, sits on an exhibition and visitors centre called Tain
a small headland near the mouth of the Fortrose Cathedral (Historic Scotland) was
c Through Time. The exhibits explain about St
Cromarty Firth. It is probably the best- founded by David I as the mother church of Duthac himself, the pilgrimage, and the people
preserved 18th-century town in Scotland, and d the diocese of Ross. Building began in the who made it. A regular pilgrim was the devout
was where many Highlanders embarked for e 1200s, though the scant remains you see King James IV who made many offerings to
Canada during the clearances of the f nowadays date from the 14th century. One of the shrine including, on one particularly
early 1800s. the three fine canopied tombs is of parsimonious occasion, some broken silver
Cromarty was the birthplace, in 1802, of
g Euphemia Ross, wife of the Wolf of plates for the adornment of
Hugh Miller, writer and the ‘father of h Badenoch (see also Dunkeld, Grantown-on- St Duthac’s relics.
geology’. Hugh Miller’s Cottage (National Spey and Elgin). The other two are of Within the centre there’s a museum that has
Trust for Scotland), where he was born, is bishops, possibly Robert Cairncross and
K John Fraser.
displays about Clan Ross.
open to the public. It has a collection of
fossils and rock specimens, as well as someL Nearby Chanonry Point is one of the
of his personal possessions, including hisi
FEARN HOTEL
best places to observe the Moray Firth
geological hammer and microscope. The j dolphins. Here, where the Firth is at its Main Street, Fearn, Tain,
major part of his fossil collection of more narrowest, you can sometimes see up to 40 Highland IV20 1TJ
than 6000 specimens provides the core of k of these graceful creatures glide through the
Tel: 01862 832234
e-mail: info@fearnhotel.co.uk
today’s Scottish national collection in the l waters or put on a fine display of jumping website: www.fearnhotel.co.uk
Royal Scottish Museum in Edinburgh. m and diving. It was at Chanonry Point that
Following a long career in the civil service,
The Cromarty Courthouse Museum, as its Kenneth Mackenzie, better known as the
n Brahan Seer, was executed in 1660. He had
Graeme Cousins and his partner Denise
name suggests, is housed within the old McIntosh, a qualified nurse, took the opportunity
courthouse. There is a reconstruction of an o the gift of second sight, and when he was to purchase the Fearn Hotel which presented the
chance to develop an establishment which
18th-century trial in the courtroom itself, plusp asked by the 3rd Countess of Seaforth why provided a warm and friendly welcome in cosy
you can see the old cells, children’s costumes, a her husband was late returning home from
q surroundings. The hotel has a small bar with a
good range of wines and spirits, and a restaurant with spectacular views over the countryside.
video presentation giving 800 years of Paris, he said that he was with a lady. She was
Cromarty history and an audio tape tour of the r so enraged that she had Kenneth executed. A Meals are served in the restaurant from 6pm to 9pm, and during the busy summer period, lunch is
served from noon until 2.00pm. There’s also a 16-cover breakfast room with a truly magnificent
old part of the town. s cairn marks the spot. view of nearby Fearn Abbey. The hotel has 6 guest bedrooms - 3 singles, 2 doubles and 1 twin -
The Cromarty Firth has always been a safe t In nearby Rosemarkie is the Groam all with either en suite or private facilities, and some with lovely views over the surrounding
House Museum, with exhibits and displays countryside.
anchorage for British ships. On December 30
1915 HMS Natal mysteriously blew up here,
u that explain the culture of the Picts, those
Nearby attractions include the Blue Flag beaches at Shandwick and Portmahomack, as well as
Dornoch, and the Tarbat Discovery Centre is a short drive away at Portmahomack, as is the Anta
with the loss of 421 lives. Many of those killedv mysterious people who inhabited this part of pottery centre. The Glenmorangie Distillery is at Tain, 4 miles away, and there are numerous golf
lie in the kirkyard of the Gaelic Chapel. Scotland in the Dark Ages. courses in the area, including the Tom Morris-designed course at Tain.
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Tain Tolbooth was built in 1707, replacing Highland’s only coal mine, with the coal being
THE TAIN POTTERY
THE HIGHLANDS
an earlier building. Half a mile north of the shipped out from the local harbour until the
Aldie, Tain, Ross-shire IV19 1LZ town is the Glenmorangie Distillery, which has railways took over. The Clynelish Distillery has
Tel: 01862 894112 Fax: 01862 893306 guided tours and a museum, with a tasting at a visitors centre and shop.
e-mail: robert@tainpottery.co.uk
the end of the tour.
website: www.tainpottery.co.uk GOLSPIE
Now firmly established as one of the largest Scottish DORNOCH 40 miles NE of Inverness on the A9
ceramic manufacturers, The Tain Pottery offers an 30 miles N of Inverness on the A949 G Duke of Sutherland A Dunrobin Castle
a
inspiring range of products created by traditional craft
techniques and skills. The pottery and visitor centre is A Dornoch Cathedral A Dornoch Castle C Carn Liath
b
located on the A9, just south of the Royal Burgh of Tain,
and is easily located by following the brown and white
F Witch’s Stone
c A steep hill path takes you to the summit of
tourist board signs. It is an ideal place to break your
Dornoch Cathedral dates originally from the Ben Bhraggie, on which there is a statue by
d
journey and a popular venue for those seeking refuge
early 13th century. However, the church as we Chantry of the first Duke of Sutherland,
from inclement weather! The working pottery is housed
e
in a renovated farm steading and has ample parking see it today is largely a rebuilding of the early who died in 1833. Locally, it is known as the
facilities. Visitors will be welcome to wander freely and 19th century, though there are some old Mannie, and was erected in 1834 by ‘a
f
discover how the raw clay is transformed into desirable
features still visible, mostly in the chancel and mourning and grateful tenantry to a judicious,
objects. g crossing. Sixteen Earls of Sutherland are said kind and liberal landlord’. The words ring
This durable stoneware is all crafted on site, before
h
being fired to a temperature of 1280 degrees centigrade to be buried within it. It was also where, in hollow, however, as the duke, owner of the
and can therefore be used in microwaves, ovens, freezers December 2000, the son of pop star Madonna biggest private estate in Europe at the time,
and dishwashers. The original designs are inspired by the
and her husband Guy Ritchie was baptised. was one of the instigators of the hated
K
surrounding area which is rich in natural beauty and the
Dornoch Castle stands opposite the Clearances of the early 19th century. There
colours used will complement most décor. ‘Glenaldie’ -
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our ‘flagship design’ depicts the national emblem, cathedral, and was built in the 15th century have been continued calls to have the statue
whereas flowers, berries and crustacean are also very
i
popular. In addition, we create a selection of tartan
with later additions. It is now an hotel. removed, and in some cases blown up. Others
Dornoch was the scene in 1727 (though the have argued that the statue should stay as a
j
designs. Each piece is individually hand painted by one of
a team of talented artists and is therefore unique. stone says 1722), of Scotland’s last execution reminder of those terrible times.
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Our shop offers the full Tain Pottery range, which is for witchcraft, when an old woman called Dunrobin Castle, the seat of the Dukes of
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highly collectable, functional and popular for giftware.
Janet Horne was burned for supposedly Sutherland, is the most northerly of Scotland’s
Whether you wish to purchase a single egg cup or full
m
dinner service, table lamp or clock there should be turning her daughter into a pony. The judge at stately homes and one of the largest in the
something to suit most tastes. You will also find some the trial was later reprimanded for his handling Highlands. Though the core is 14th century, it
n
special ‘one off’ pieces, and commissions can be of the case. The Witch’s Stone, within a resembles a huge French chateau, thanks to a
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undertaken, for those seeking that extra special gift, we
garden in Littletown, marks the spot
can put names or inscriptions on any piece. We offer a
p
wedding list service for the bride who is looking for where Janet was executed.
something a little different. Visitors have the unique
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opportunity to browse our vast array of seconds, which BRORA
r
are available at discounted prices, exclusively from our 45 miles NE of Inverness on the A9
shop.
Opening Times: s B Brora Heritage Centre
April – October t Brora is a picturesque coastal village at
Monday: Saturday 9.00 – 5.30 pm,
u the mouth of the River Brora. The
Sunday 10.00 – 5 pm
Brora Heritage Centre on Coalpit
November – March v Road has a hands-on guide to the
Monday – Saturday 9.30 – 5.00 pm,
Sundays by appointment only. history and wildlife of the area. At one
time it was the location of the Drawing Room, Dunrobin Castle, Golspie
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spare-no-expense remodelling in 1840 by Sir North of Golspie, on the road to Brora, is LAIRG building it in 1748 as a direct result of the
THE HIGHLANDS
Charles Barry, designer of the Houses of Carn Liath (“the Grey Cairn”). It overlooks 40 miles N of Inverness on the A836 Jacobite Uprising of 1745, and it was
Parliament. Some of the castle’s 189 rooms are the sea, and is all that is left of a once D Falls of Shin C Ord Hill subsequently manned by government troops.
open to the public, and there is a museum in mighty broch. The walls are still 12 feet It covers 42 acres, has walls a mile long, and
B Ferrycroft Countryside Centre
the summerhouse. high in places. the whole thing cost over £1bn to build at
Lairg is an old village that sits at the south- today’s prices. It has been called the finest
Fort George eastern tip of Loch Shin, which, since the 18th-century fortification in Europe, and has
a7TD 1950s, has been harnessed for hydroelectricity. survived almost intact from that time. The
Fort George, Inverness, Inverness-Shire IV2 The loch, which is famous for its fishing, is Queen’s Own Highlanders Museum is
Tel: 01667 462777 / 01667 460232 b
over 18 miles long by no more than a mile at within the fort.
website: www.historic-scotland.gov.uk/properties
c its widest, with the A838 following its
Following the 1746 defeat at Culloden of Bonnie Prince Charlie, George II created the
northern shoreline for part of the way. Due to NAIRN
d
ultimate defence against further Jacobite unrest. The result, Fort George, is the mightiest 16 miles NE of Inverness on the A96
the hydroelectric scheme, it is 30 feet deeper
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artillery fortification in Britain, if not Europe. Its garrison buildings, artillery defences bristling
than it used to be. B Nairn Museum B Fishertown Museum
with cannon, and superb collection of arms – including bayoneted muskets, pikes, swords
and ammunition pouches – provide a f The village became important because it A Boath Doocot C Battle of Auldearn
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fascinating insight into 18th century military stands at the meeting point of various A Auldearn Parish Church
life. Highland roads that head off in all directions.
Fort George was intended as an h Nairn is a small, picturesque holiday and
Five miles south are the picturesque Falls of
impregnable army base – designed on a golfing resort on the Moray Firth. Local
Shin, which has a visitor centre and a
monumental scale using sophisticated people will tell you that the name is a
defence standards. Today, it would cost K Harrod’s shop. Ord Hill, west of the town,
has an archaeological trail, which takes you shortened version of ‘nae rain’ (‘no rain’), and
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nearly £1 billion. Within almost a mile of
indeed this area is one of the driest in Britain.
boundary walls was accommodation for a round a landscape rich in ancient sites.
i
governor, officers, artillery detachment, and a Ferrycroft Countryside Centre explains It has a fine, clean beach and a large caravan
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1600-strong infantry garrison. It also housed land use in this part of Sutherland since the park. The River Nairn, which flows through
a magazine for 2,500 gunpowder barrels, the town, is supposed to mark the boundary
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ordnance and provision stores, a brewhouse and chapel.When the fortress was completed in
end of the last Ice Age.
between the English speaking areas to the east
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1769, the Highlands were peaceful but it was maintained in readiness for action that never FORT GEORGE and the Gaelic speaking areas to the west. A
came, and has remained virtually unaltered. Visitors today can see historic barrack rooms
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which are a time capsule of the domestic life of the Scottish soldier.
10 miles NE of Inverness on the B9006 great royal castle once stood here, built by
William the Lion in 1179, but it is long gone.
n in Scotland still functioning as intended – a
Fort George is the only ancient monument A Fort George
working army barracks – but still welcoming visitors. A gift shop and café (seasonal) are The Nairn Museum on Viewfield Drive has
o
among the attractions. There is also a summer events programme.
B Queen’s Own Highlanders Museum
collections on local history, archaeology and
p Fort George (Historic Scotland - see panel wildlife. There is also the Fishertown
opposite) was designed by Major General Museum, in the heart of the fisher town area.
q
William Skinner, the King’s Military Engineer As its name implies, this is where the
r for North Britain (the name given to Scotland fishermen that manned the town’s former
s after the Jacobite Uprising). He originally fishing fleet lived. There are displays and
wanted to build it at Inverness, but the
t artefacts highlighting the industry.
councillors of the town objected, saying it At Auldearn, two miles east of the town
u would take away part of the harbour. The fort (now bypassed), is the Boath Doocot
v was named after George II, and sits on a (National Trust for Scotland), which stands
headland that guards the inner waters of the within what was a small medieval castle built
Moray Firth near Ardersier. Work started on in the late 12th century by William the Lion.
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The Battle of Auldearn was fought here in smashed forever. The battlefield is on
BOATH STABLES HOLIDAY ACCOMMODATION
THE HIGHLANDS
1645 between 1500 Royalist troops of the Drumossie Moor, which in the 18th century
Boath Steading, Auldearn, by Nairn, Inverness-shire IV12 5TE Marquis of Montrose and a 4000-strong was a lonely, wild place.
Tel: 01667 451500 Covenanting army under Sir John Hurry. Even Now it has been drained and cultivated,
Fax: 01667 451301
though they outnumbered the Royalist troops, though the battlefield itself has been returned
e-mail: maxwell_ellen@hotmail.com
website: www.boathstables.co.uk the Covenanters were routed, and some of the to the way it was. There is still a sadness about
dead were buried in the kirkyard of Auldearn the place, and it was once said that no birds
Set in lovely gardens in a peaceful rural
setting, Boath Stables offers luxury self- a Parish Church, built in 1757. ever sang here. That’s not quite true, but no
catering accommodation in a beautifully one who visits can fail to be moved. You can
converted 18th century property. There b CAWDOR
still see the stones that mark the graves of
are two similar luxury apartments. Each
c 12 miles NE of Inverness on the A96
has a cosy lounge with an open fire, various clans, and there is a huge memorial
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digital TV and DVD player with surround sound and wifi connection is available in the property. In A Cawdor Castle cairn at the centre of the battlefield. Leanach
colder weather there is full central heating with adjustable under-floor heating on the ground floor. Cottage, which survived the battle, has been
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The kitchens are modern and well-equipped, with a washing machine and tumble dryer located in
Cawdor Castle was made famous by
Shakespeare in his play Macbeth, though the restored, and the Culloden Visitor Centre
f
the adjacent converted Hen House. This small building also provides separate storage place for
core of the present castle was built in the 14th (National Trust for Scotland) has displays and
bicycles, golf clubs and wet gear.
g
Each apartment sleeps up to 6 people. The two upstairs bedrooms have the flexibility of zip and century by the then Thane of Cawdor, who exhibits that explain the battle. The
link beds, for either double or twin occupation. The small bedroom has an en suite shower; the
h was sheriff and hereditary constable of the Cumberland Stone marks the place where the
larger room has an en suite bathroom and plenty of room for a cot or child’s bed/ Downstairs, the 25-year-old Duke of Cumberland, third son
lounge has a comfortable sofa-bed with its own shower facilities in the downstairs bathroom. For
royal castle at Nairn. He built the core -
larger groups, the two apartments can be united to comfortably house up to 12 people, plus essentially the central tower - round a thorn of George II and commander of the Royalist
children. K tree that can still be seen today. The story goes troops, watched the battle. He earned the
L that the thane loaded a donkey with gold, and nickname Butcher Cumberland for his
let it wander round the district. The thane unspeakable acts of cruelty after the battle.
CALEDONIAN CRAFT i
vowed to built the castle where it finally Not far from the battlefield are the Clava
CONNECTIONS j rested. This it did beside a thorn tree, which Cairns (Historic Scotland), a fascinating
115 High Street, Nairn IV12 k 4DB was incorporated into the building. Recent group of three burial cairns of the early
Tel: 01667 452423 Bronze Age.
l carbon dating suggests the tree was planted in
e-mail: info@caledoniancraftconnections.com m about 1372. With its fairy tale looks and its
TOMATIN
website: www.caledoniancraftconnections.com turrets, Cawdor is said to be one of the most
n 13 miles SE of Inverness off the A9
Located on the “Brae” of the High Street, Pat and Marie have
romantic castles in Scotland.
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run their Studio/Craft shop/workshop since December 2007,
CULLODEN
Tomatin sits on the River Findhorn, just off
when they identified a lack of outlets for local handcrafters/ the A9. The Tomatin Distillery, north of the
p
artisans, of which they included themselves. This enables 5 miles E of Inverness on the B9006 village, is one of the highest in Scotland, and
original pieces to be shown in an eclectically q
displayed style,
with an ambiance of past times when the pace was slower and
C Battle of Culloden A Leanach Cottage was founded in 1897. Now owned by a
r
the individual needs of the customer were uppermost. Due to B Culloden Visitor Centre C Clava Cairns Japanese company, it has 23 stills, and draws
the nature of the shop, pieces change frequently, (some being its water from the Alt-na-Frithe burn. It has
s
unique, others limited), but include locally handcrafted pottery, ceramics, glass, woodturning, The Battle of Culloden was fought in 1746,
tours, a visitor centre and tastings.
t
jewellery, photography, art, soaps, cards and a range of felt, tweed and textile items. and was the last major battle to take place on
After the local Wool shop closed in February 2008 Pat and Marie added a wool and
u British soil. It lasted less than an hour and left NETHY BRIDGE
haberdashery department, featuring locally produced wools, as well as popular yarns Collinette and
Sirdar. The studio at the rear of the craft shop is where Pat and Marie make their full range of 349 government troops dead and 1000 24 miles SE of Inverness on the B970
v
hand-crafted, bespoke wedding and special occasion stationery under the name of Temparia. The Jacobites. The hopes of the Jacobites to return
E Dell Wood National Nature Reserve
studio also hosts classes and workshops throughout the year on a variety of craft techniques, a Stuart king to the British throne were dashed
details can be found on website. Dell Wood National Nature Reserve is in
on that cold April day, and the clan system was
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Abernethy Forest. It is famous for its rare lies to the south of the town, on the B970 to Church, and for this reason was given
THE HIGHLANDS
bog woodland, which has largely disappeared Nethy Bridge. It has gardens, woodland trails the nickname of the Coffin Bridge.
from the area because of drainage and and an adventure playground. Revack Lodge South of the village is the
agricultural improvements. was built as a shooting lodge in 1860. Landmark Forest Heritage Park. It is
Six miles northwest of the town are the carved out of woodland, and has such
GRANTOWN-ON-SPEY
ruins of Lochindorb Castle, built on an attractions as a Red Squirrel Trail,
26 miles SE of Inverness off the A939
island in Lochindorb, on bleak Dava Moor. Microworld (where you can explore the
A Inverallan Parish Church
a This was the home of the infamous Alexander world of tiny insects) and the Tree Top
E Revack Country Lodge A Lochindorb Castle Stewart, son of Robert II, known as the Wolf Trail, where you take a walk through the
b of Badenoch. high branches of the trees. The Timber
This beautiful and elegant tourist centre isc
Tower gives amazing views over the Cairngorm Mountain Railway, Aviemore
situated in the heart of Strathspey (never, ever CARRBRIDGE
d
the Spey Valley), and sits at a height of 700 21 miles SE of Inverness on the A938
surrounding countryside. At Dulnain
Bridge, six miles east of the village on the of the great, natural Caledonian Pine Forest,
feet above sea level. It was built by James e
E Landmark Forest Heritage Park A95, is the Speyside Heather Centre, with which once covered all of the Highlands. Parts
Grant of Grantcastle in the late 18th century
f E Speyside Heather Centre over 300 species of a plant that has become of Monarch of the Glen were filmed here (see
and laid out in a grid plan. The Inverallan
Parish Church in Mossie Road was
g synonymous with Scotland. also Kingussie). Details of all the activities are
The arch of the original packhorse bridge still available from the visitor centre on the B970,
completed in 1856, and commemorates the h stands and dates from 1717 when it was built AVIEMORE southeast of the village.
7th and 8th Earls of Seaforth. by Brigadier-General Sir Alexander Grant of 30 miles SE of Inverness off the A9
Aviemore is one of the termini of the
The 15,000-acre Revack Country Estate
K Grant. It carried funeral processions to Duthil E Cairngorm Reindeer Centre Strathspey Steam Railway, which runs
L E Rothiemurchus Highland Estate through Boat of Garten to Broomhill, 10
DUNALLAN HOUSE miles away. Broomhill station featured as
i
Woodside Avenue, Grantown-on-Spey, Moray PH26 3JN
I Strathspey Steam Railway
Glenbogle Station in the popular TV series
Tel: 01479 872140 j Once a quiet Inverness-shire village, Aviemore Monarch of the Glen. The line was once part of
e-mail: enquiries@dunallan.com k has now expanded into one of the main the Aviemore to Forres line, which was closed
website: www.dunallan.com winter sports centres in the Highlands. The in the early 1960s.
l
Enjoying a peaceful location, yet only a short walk from local skiing area and chair lifts lie about nine miles
m
shops and a wide range of excellent restaurants and cafes, east of the village, high in the Cairngorms. KINGUSSIE
Dunallan House was built in 1898 as a handsome country 28 miles S of Inverness off the A9
n This is also the starting point of the
retreat for aristocrats and is now a family-run traditional
Victorian Guest House with a friendly and relaxing atmosphere. Owners Jayne Osgood and David Cairngorm Mountain Railway, which carries B Highland Folk Museum
o
Graham have kept many of the villa’s original features, including the lovely stained glass windows, passengers all year round to the Ptarmigan
B Clan MacPherson House A Ruthven Barracks
p
cornices and the original fireplaces in the dining room and guest’s lounge. Awarded a 4-star rating Station, within 400 feet of the summit of the
by the Scottish Tourist Board, Dunallan House offers a choice of 4 double rooms, 2 twin rooms E Highland Wildlife Park
q
and one multiple bed room. All the rooms are en suite and individually decorated and include a
4084-feet-high Cairngorm itself. On the road
popular Victorian room and a honeymoon suite. to the skiing area is the Cairngorm Reindeer Kingussie (pronounced King - yoosy) sits in
r Centre, where Britain’s only permanent herd
At breakfast time, guests are very well looked after with a choice that includes porridge, fresh Strathspey with good views of the
s
fruit, organic yoghurts, Dorset cereal, local smoked salmon and a full Scottish breakfast. Dunallan’s of reindeer can be seen. Cairngorms to the east, while to the west lie
other facilities include a
drying room, laundry t The Rothiemurchus Highland Estate is a the Monadhliath Mountains, rising to over
service, lockable storage u magnificent area with spectacular views, deep 3000 feet.
and private off-road parking. forests and woodland trails. You can try hill At Newtonmore, three miles south of
Mountain bike and Nordic v walking and mountain biking, and there are Kingussie, is the Highland Folk Museum,
walking instruction, hire and
guiding are all available. guided walks and safari tours in Land Rovers. which gives an insight into the history and
The estate contains some of the last remnants lifestyle of the ordinary people of the
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28 WALK|10
The Countr y Living Guide to R ural Scotland - The Highlands 29
Aviemore - Boat of DESCRIPTION: WALK DIRECTIONS: 5|Keep left here, onto open moorland. Continue,
THE HIGHLANDS
alternating between open woodland and moor, with
On the map this looks like a boring straight line; but 1|The path starts, on the northern edge of
Garten in fact nowhere is it straight for more than 100 Aviemore, at the ‘30mph’ sign. After following the
views behind to the Cairngorms.
metres. Part of the Speyside Way, it has been well A95(T) for a short distance the track turns right, to 6|Continue on to reach a gate.
Distance: 5.6 miles (9.0 kilometres) planned and laid out. It’s wide and well surfaced reach double gates. 7|Immediately through the gate, turn left on to a
Typical time: 150 mins (but good shoes, or boots, recommended). It’s full 2|Go through the gates, and under the Perth to farm road (waymarked Speyside Way). The route
Height gain: 100 metres of variety and offers good views to the northern Inverness railway. After that cross three wooden soon goes under the Speyside Railway again, and a
Cairngorms. The walk is 5.5 miles from one railway bridges, then under the Strathspey Railway bridge. few metres on there is a junction.
Map: Explorer 403
Walk: www.walkingworld.com ID:1009
a station to the other, to take advantage of a return
3|After going under this bridge you soon come to 8|Go straight on here. Stay on this farm road; it
journey on the steam train; it can be shortened to becomes tarred on the outskirts of Boat of Garten.
Contributor: D B Grant b four miles if you use two cars. Food, drink etc are
a fork. Here keep left and you’ll soon reach
another fork. 9|Here, where the road becomes tarred, is where
ACCESS INFORMATION:
c available in the two villages and there is a licensed
4|At this fork, keep left and go on through open you can park your car if not using the train.
diner on the train (timetables available at the Tourist
d
1. If using two cars, you can park at Boat of Garten Information Centre, any hotel, guesthouse etc). birch woods and old Scots pines. Where you Continue into Boat of Garten; on reaching the
station or, to shorten the walk, at Waymark 9. e emerge from the woodland there is another fork. main road turn right for a few metres to arrive at
2. In Aviemore parking can be difficult in the the station.
holiday season, so no set car park is given here.f
If 10|Railway station and parking.
you intend to use the railway you might want tog
park somewhere near the station. You then must
h
walk north on the A95(T) (the main street in the
Boat of Garten
Highlands over the years by means of a The Adverikie Estate, with its large house,
village). Keep to the right-hand pavement and reconstruction of an 18th-century Highland
you will come to the start of the walk path at the
10
played the part of Glenbogle.
K township. Also in the village is the Clan
‘end of 30mph limit’ sign, at the end of the
MacPherson House and Museum, which, DRUMNADROCHIT
village (0.75mile from the station). L as its name implies, recounts the history of 16 miles SW of Inverness on the A82
i
9
West Street of the MacPhersons. F Nessie B Loch Ness Exhibition Centre
Davoult
j Kincardine
The ruins of Ruthven Barracks (Historic B Original Loch Ness Exhibition
Scotland) lie to the south of Kingussie, on the
k 8
Drumnadrochit sits on the shore of Loch
other side of the A9. The barracks were built
l 7 in 1719 to house government troops when Ness at Drumnadrochit Bay. It is a quaint
Avielochan m Jacobite sympathies were strong in the area. place, though it can get overcrowded in the
Charles Edward Stuart’s army seized the summer, due to tourists flocking here to catch
n 6 a glimpse of the Loch Ness Monster,
barracks in 1746 and burnt them. After the
o Jacobite defeat at Culloden, more than 3000 nicknamed Nessie. Whether a monster
p Jacobite troops mustered here to continue the actually exists or not has never been proved,
Kincnurdy but that has never deterred the crowds. The
q fight. However, Charles Edward Stuart saw
loch measures just less than 23 miles long by a
that further fighting was useless and sent a
r message saying that each man should return mile wide at its widest, and contains more
y 0 200 400 600 800metres 1
s Spe water than any other loch in Britain.

KILOMETRES
MILES
home. Four miles north of Kingussie is the

0 200 400 600yards ½
er
The first mention we have of a monster -
Rtiv FEATURES: Highland Wildlife Park, which has an array
of Scottish wildlife, plus some animals that though in this case it was in the River Ness
Pityoulish u
2 Hills or Fells, Pub, Toilets, Wildlife,
3
5
Birds, Flowers, Great Views, Butterflies, once used to roam the Highlands freely. and not in the loch - occurs in Adamnan’s Life
4
v Gift Shop, Food Shop, Good for Kids, A few miles south west of Kingussie, along of St Columba, written in the 7th century. In
1
Moor, Mostly Flat, Public Transport, the A86, is Loch Laggan, where scenes for the the year 565AD, St Columba was heading up
Dalfaber Loch Restaurant, Tea Shop, Woodland. the Great Glen towards Inverness, when he
Fityoulish BBC series Monarch of the Glen were filmed.
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encountered a monster attacking a man in the were the dominant family. The north transept, crofter’s son who was born in 1853 and joined beautiful scenery in Scotland as it crosses the
THE HIGHLANDS
River Ness at the point where it enters the which is more or less complete, is the burial the army as a private, rising through the ranks country.
loch. He drove it back by prayer and the man’s place of the MacKenzies of Kintail. to become a major general and national hero. The Dingwall Canal (now closed) is Britain’s
companions fell on their knees and were It is said that the village got its name when He was known as Fighting Mac, and eventually most northerly canal, and was designed by
converted to Christianity. Mary Stuart stayed in the priory in 1564 on commanded the British Army in Ceylon. In Thomas Telford in 1817, though by 1890 it had
Nowadays, the monster is a bit more timid. her way to Dingwall and declared it to be a 1903, on his was back to Ceylon after a trip to closed. It is just over a mile in length. At the
Most sightings have been made at Urquhart beau lieu, or beautiful place. However, it was London, he committed suicide in Paris after end of the canal is the Ferry Point, which has a
a
Castle (Historic Scotland), about a mile from called Beauly long before she arrived, though unproved accusations of homosexuality from picnic area.
Drumnadrochit. Curiously enough, this is the name may indeed come from the French those who objected to his lowly birth. After his Eight miles west of the town, off the A835,
b
where the loch is at its deepest at 754 feet. The for beautiful place. death, it was discoverd that he had a secret wife are the Rogie Falls on the Blackwater, reached
castle is one of the largest in Scotland andc The Beauly Centre, next to the priory, has and child. A monument to him, known as the by a footpath from a car park on the main road.
stands on a promontory that juts out intod the displays about the history of the area. There is Mitchell Tower, stands on a hill to the south of A fish ladder has been built to assist salmon to
water. A fortification has stood here for also a reconstructed village store, a weaving the town on Mitchell Hill. swim upriver. There are also woodland walks in
e
centuries, but the present ruins date from the centre and a Clan Fraser exhibition. Within the old Tolbooth of 1730 is the the surrounding area.
16th century when the Grants occupied it.f To the southwest is Strathglass, one of the award-winning Dingwall Museum, where the
STRATHPEFFER
Urquhart Castle has nothing to do with Clang most beautiful glens in the area. It was here, in town’s history is explained by way of displays
14 miles NW of Inverness on the A834
Urquhart, whose homeland was on the Black h the early 19th century, that the Sobieski Stuarts and exhibits.
Isle, north of Inverness, though there may Dingwall is the eastern terminus for the A Spa Pump Room
lived in some style, claiming to be the
have been early links. After the Jacobite legitimate grandsons of Charles Edward famous Dingwall to Kyle of Lochalsh railway B Highland Museum of Childhood C Eagle Stone
Uprising of 1689, the castle was blown up and K Stuart. Their claims were believed by many line, which runs through some of the most At one time, this small village was one of the
L
never rebuilt. A visitor centre contains a model people, notably the Earl of Moray, Lord Lovat
of the castle, which shows what it was like in and the Earl of Dumfries. There is no doubt,
its heyday.
i KILTEARN HOUSE
however, that they were charlatans.
Two exhibitions vie for attention in the j The Wardlaw Mausoleum, built on to the
Evanton, Ross-shire IV16 9UY
village, the Original Loch Ness Exhibitionk
Tel: 01349 830617
east end of Kirkhill Parish Church, is one of e-mail: info@kiltearn.co.uk website: www.kiltearn.co.uk
and the Loch Ness Exhibition Centre. Theyl the burial places of Clan Fraser. It was built Occupying a superb position on the foreshore of Cromarty
each have displays about the Loch Ness in 1634, and in 1998 was restored by
m
Monster, but the latter was designed by scientist
Firth, Kiltearn House is a 4* guest house offering hotel
luxury with the personal touch. Built in 1894, this imposing
Historic Scotland.
Adrian Shine who has spent more than 30 years n Victorian sandstone house was a former Church of Scotland
investigating the Loch Ness phenomenon. o DINGWALL Manse. It is now the home of Lin and Paul Houlden who
offer an irresistible combination of luxury accommodation,
11 miles NW of Inverness on the A862
BEAULY p super food and a wonderful location. Many of the major
G Sir Hector MacDonald B Dingwall Museum east coast rivers are within a very short drive and there are
7 miles W of Inverness on the A862 q 23 of Scotland’s finest golf courses within easy reach.
D Rogie Falls
A Beauly Priory B Beauly Centre D Strathglassr Guests at Kiltearn House have the use of a spacious,
Dingwall’s name derives from the Norse thing double aspect but cosy lounge which has comfortable
A Wardlaw Mausoleum s vollr, meaning the place of the parliament,
down-filled sofas and a wood-burning stove for those chilly
evenings. Here you can relax and watch TV, DVDs or
Within this picturesque village are the ruins tof which shows that even in ancient times it was videos, listen to the radio or the vast selection of CDs.
Beauly Priory (Historic Scotland), founded an important settlement. It is a royal burgh,
by the Bisset family in 1230 for monks of the
u There’s also a drawing room with a large picture window enabling guests to enjoy the
panoramic view over the Firth. There is no TV in this room but guests are welcome to read any of
having received its charter from Alexander II in
Valliscaulian order, though what can be seenv 1227. Its castle, now long gone, was the
the books or newspapers provided.
nowadays dates from between the 14th and The 5 guest bedrooms are all en suite and all enjoy views over the Firth or gardens. They have
birthplace of Macbeth in 1010. Another new, ultra-comfortable beds, individual soft furnishings and large, fluffy towels.
16th centuries, when the Frasers of Lovat famous son is Sir Hector MacDonald, a
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most famous spa resorts in Britain, and trains predicted that if the stone fell over three the beauty that had been lost for so long. The crossings daily to Portree on the Isle of Skye.
THE HIGHLANDS
used to leave London regularly carrying people times, the waters of the Cromarty Firth, five area surrounding Ullapool is famous for its Five miles northeast, on the banks of Loch
who wanted to ‘take its waters’. For this reason, miles to the east, would rise so that ships golden beaches, the best ones being at Ewe are the famous Inverewe Gardens
it is full of hotels, B&Bs and genteel guest could drop anchor near where the stone stood. Achnahaird, Gruinard Bay and Achmelvich. (National Trust for Scotland). They have plant
houses. So fashionable was it that the local The stone has fallen over twice so far, and as collections from all over the world, which
paper used to publish a weekly list of the some of the Seer’s other predictions have Around Ullapool thrive in these northern latitudes due to the
crowned heads and aristocratic families who come true, it is now embedded in concrete to Gulf Stream. The gardens were founded by
were ‘in town’. a be on the safe side. GAIRLOCH Sir Osgood Mackenzie, third son of the Laird
The spa days are over now, though the Spa 22 miles SW of Ullapool on the A832 of Gareloch. He bought the Inverewe and
b
Pump Room has been refurbished and re-
creates the halcyon days of the village whenc the
Ullapool E Inverewe Gardens
Kernsary estate in 1862, when he built
Inverewe House and surrounded it with
E Beinn Eighe Nature Reserve
cream of society flocked here. You can even d B Ullapool Museum E Leckmelm Gardens gardens. The most amazing thing about
sample the curative waters yourself. The This little village, on the shores of Loch Inverewe is that it is further north than some
e This fishing port and ferry terminal on Loch
adjacent Victorian gardens, where Victorian Gairloch, has one of the loveliest settings in parts of Greenland, yet still manages to grow
society used to promenade and play croquet, f Broom was founded by the British Fisheries
Scotland. The Gairloch Heritage Museum, some exotic species.
Society in 1788 and laid out in a grid plan to
have also been restored. g designs by Thomas Telford. By 1792, much of
housed in old farm buildings, has an illicit still, Sixteen miles south east of Gairloch, and
Within the disused railway station is the h the work on the port buildings and some
village shop, lighthouse interior and other beyond beautiful Loch Maree, is the quiet
Highland Museum of Childhood, with displays that explain how life was lived in village of Kinlochewe. It is in the heart of
houses was completed, settlers having been
photographs, toys, games and videos. The northwest Scotland in the past. what is recognised to be some of the finest
given a plot of land, free stone to build a home,
Angela Kellie Doll Collection is particularly K and land for a garden. Over the years the A passenger ferry service runs two return mountain scenery in Scotland. The Beinn
fine. There’s also a gift shop and coffee shop.L fortunes of the village fluctuated as the fishing
On the eastern outskirts of the village i is the industry prospered or went into recession. THE OLD MILL HIGHLAND LODGE
Eagle Stone, with Pictish symbols. Scotland’s Loch Maree, Wester Ross IV22 2HL
own Nostradamus, the Brahan Seer (Kenneth
j Now the town is a tourist resort, and a
Tel: 01445 760271
centre for hill walking, sightseeing, wildlife
Mackenzie, born in the early 17th century) k study and fishing. It is also the mainland
e-mail: plbyrne@aol.com
l website: www.theoldmillhighlandlodge.co.uk
terminus for the Stornoway ferry, and can be a
Set beside the magnificent island-dotted Loch Maree within
Eagle Stone, Strathpeffer m busy place during the summer months. The the National Scenic Area of Wester Ross, The Old Mill
award-winning Ullapool Museum and Highland Lodge enjoys a panoramic view from its lovely
n garden that takes in the unforgettable sight of Slioch, the
Visitor Centre is housed in a former church
o designed by Thomas Telford - one of the so- finest mountain landmark in Wester Ross. On one side of the
lodge is the crystal clear mountain stream which brings the
p called parliamentary churches”. cleanest water in the land and on the other is a restful
summer house beside a tinkling burn. The 2 acres of
q In 1773, before the town was established,
landscaped grounds have matured into a true paradise of
the very first settlers bound for Nova Scotia
r left Loch Broom in the Hector, and there is a
flowers, heathers, trees and shrubs.
The Lodge was completed as a purpose-built Highland
s scale model of the ship within the museum. lodge in 1976, on the site of a former grain store and horse
t One of the hidden jewels of the West mill. It offers visitors a warm welcome, good food and wine,
and the chance to enjoy complete tranquillity in one of the
u Highlands are the Leckmelm Gardens, three most spectacular areas of Scotland. There’s a choice of accommodation in 6 spacious en suite
miles south of the town just off the A835. bedrooms (3 twin and 3 double), all with hairdryer and tea/coffee making facilities.
v They were planted in about 1870, but by 1985 The Old Mill is situated in Talladale, a tiny hamlet named by Norsemen, in whose language
had become overgrown. In that year work ‘talla’ meant ‘hall’ and ‘dal’ meant ‘flat field’. With only three permanent residents, it is one of the
smallest communities in the British Isles.
began on re-establishing them and revealing
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Eighe Nature Reserve, Britain’s first, has a DURNESS Gaels. Parliament Square near the Market murdering the Earl and Countess of Sutherland
THE HIGHLANDS
visitor centre and nature reserve. It sits just 50 miles N of Ullapool on the A838 place recalls the fact that James V held a so that he could marry off his daughter to their
west of Kinlochewe, along the A832. D Smoo Cave E John Lennon Memorial Garden parliament at Wick as he made a royal progress heir, and thus claim the Sutherland lands.
through Scotland in 1540. However, in 1576, the heir left the country, and
LOCHINVER Durness, in Sutherland, is one of the most Sinclair’s plans were thwarted. In revenge, he
The award-winning Wick Heritage Centre
17 miles N of Ullapool on the A837 northerly villages in Scotland, and sits close to ordered his son John to lay waste to the
in Bank Row has exhibits and displays about life
A Ardvreck Castle B Assynt Visitor Centre Cape Wrath - one of only two capes in Great Sutherland lands, but when he refused, Sinclair
in Wick and Caithness. In Huddart Street in
Britain, the other being Cape Cornwall. To had him thrown into a dungeon.
D Suilven E Hydroponicum a reach it, you have to cross the Kyle of Durness
Pulteneytown on the south bank of the River
Wick is the Pulteney Distillery, which makes the With the help of his jailer, John hatched a
This small fishing port sits on Loch Inver,bat from Durness itself on a small ferry and walk
world-famous Old Pulteney single malt whisky. plot to escape. John’s brother William found out
the end of the A837. A few miles east is Loch
c or take a minibus to the cape, 10 miles away.
It has a visitor centre and shop, and there is a about this and told his father, who executed the
Assynt on whose shore you will find the ruins The peculiarly named Smoo Cave is in the
d
of Ardvreck Castle, built in the 16th century cliffs a mile and a half west of the village. It
tour of the distillery, plus tastings. jailer. When William went down to the dungeon
The Old Parish Kirk, dedicated to to goad his brother, John killed him with his
by the MacLeods of Assynt. It was here, e in consists of three chambers, and goes
St Fergus, dates from 1830, though a church chains. For this, his father punished him by
1650, that Montrose was kept prisoner before
f underneath the coast road. The name may
has stood here since medieval times. In the denying him food for five days, then feeding
being taken to Edinburgh for execution. The come from the Old Norse smjugga, meaning
g
Assynt Visitor Centre has small displays and rock. A walkway with railings takes you down to kirkyard is the Sinclair Aisle, burial place of the him salt beef without giving him anything to
h the cave, which has had lights fitted. old Earls of Caithness. drink. John died in agony, his tongue swollen
exhibits about local history.
An old story featuring George Sinclair, the through lack of water. His father had him
Four miles southeast of the village is what There are many clean, golden beaches in the
4th Earl, explains just how bloodthirsty times buried in the Sinclair Aisle, and years later, just
has been called the most beautiful mountainKin area, most of them uncrowded. The best ones
were in the 16th century. He was suspected of before he too died, full of remorse for what he
Scotland - Suilven. At a mere 2389 feet, it is are Balnakeil, Ceann na Beinne, Sango Beag
not even a Munro, nor is it the highest in theL and Sango Mor.
area. Seen from Lochinver, it appears to be i a The village has associations with John
solitary mountain that rises sheer on all sides.
j Lennon of The Beatles, who used to spend
It’s name comes from the Norse, and means holidays here with his family when he was
k
the Mountain Pillar. However, it is the western young. The John Lennon Memorial Garden
end of a high ridge, and makes for some l commemorates his stays, and there is a small
superb walking and climbing country. m display of Lennon letters in the village hall.
At Achiltibuie, 10 miles south of
n Wick
Lochinver, and reached by a narrow road, is
the Hydroponicum, a ‘garden’ where plants o
B Wick Heritage Centre A Old Parish Kirk
grow without soil. It calls itself the gardenpof
the future and kits are available so that youq F George Sinclair A Castle of Old Wick
too can start growing plants without soil. It A Girnigoe Castle A Sinclair Castle
was set up in the mid-1980s to show that
r
Wick is a an ancient royal burgh on the North
some of the problems found in this part ofs
Sea coast, and was once the leading herring
Scotland - poor soil, a short growing seasont
port in Europe. Up until 1975, it was also the
and high winds - could be overcome. It now
provides high quality produce (from lettuces
u administrative capital of Caithness, Scotland’s
v most northerly mainland county. The name
to bananas) for homes and businesses in the
comes from the Old Norse word vik meaning
area. It also features renewable sources of
bay, and this whole area owes more to Norse
energy and green technologies.
culture than it does to the culture of the
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had done, he asked that his heart be buried Laidhay Croft Museum, which shows a
GILBERT’S
THE HIGHLANDS
beside his son. typical Highland house with living quarters,
10 Dunrobin Street, Helmsdale, One mile south of the town, on a cliff top, byre and stable all under the one roof. And in
Sutherland KW8 6JA an old schoolhouse at Dunbeath is the
are the ruins of the Castle of Old Wick
Tel: 01431 821090
(Historic Scotland), built by Harald Dunbeath Heritage Centre, managed by the
e-mail: info@gilbertsofhelmsdale.co.uk
Maddadson, Earl of Caithness, in the Dunbeath Preservation Trust. It has displays,
website: www.gilbertsofhelmsdale.co.uk
12th century. photographs and documents about the village.
Gilbert’s opened in the autumn of 2004 as an
antique and furniture centre, offering middlea On a hill to the south of Wick Bay is a Neil Gunn, one of Scotland’s finest writers
range collectables, furniture and jewellery items, memorial to the engineer James Bremner, who (author of The Silver Darlings, 1941), was born
with an accompanying coffee and homemade b in Dunbeath and attended the school in which
cake selection. This combination proved so was born in Wick and who died in 1856. He
c
successful that proprietors Mel and Russ went on collaborated with Brunel, and salvaged the SS the Heritage Centre is located.
d
to develop a lunchtime menu, specialising in daily Great Britain when it ran aground off Ireland.
HELMSDALE
sourced seafood, meat and game, available from
local suppliers and cooked to suit individuale North of Wick, the two castles of 30 miles SW of Wick on the A9
requirements. Today, the café restaurant with its Girnigoe and Sinclair stand above Sinclair
f
stylish modern interior, offers a wide ranging and B Timespan F Isobel Sinclair
Bay. They were strongholds of the Earls of
appetising, ‘Taste of Scotland’ menu, that
changes weekly and is based on fresh local,
g Caithness. Girnigoe is the older of the two, F Gold Rush of 1868
organic produce where available and good homeh dating from the end of the 15th century, and The name Helmsdale comes from the Norse
cooking. it was in its dungeons that George Sinclair
Throughout the day Gilbert’s is filled with the
Hjalmundal, meaning dale of the helmet. A
had his son incarcerated. Sinclair Castle dates great battle is supposed to have been fought
K
lovely aroma of fresh baking and friendly staff
from about 1606.
create a warm and welcoming atmosphere. here between two Norse chiefs, Swein and
L
Although the restaurant is not licensed customers On the northern edge of the town is Wick Olvir. Swein was victorious, and Olvir fled and
are welcome to bring their own beverages. In the
summer months Gilbert’s is open on Friday andi Airport, Scotland’s most northerly mainland was never heard from again.
commercial airport. It currently has scheduled
Saturday evenings and out of season offers
j
special themed evening events, such as classic
Within this little fishing port is Timespan, a
flights to and from Aberdeen and Edinburgh. visitor centre that tells the story of Helmsdale
Italian cuisine or a Medieval night. k
and its surrounding communities. There are
Children are welcomed at Gilbert’s and there
is full disabled access in the restaurant. l Around Wick exhibits about the Clearances, Picts, Norse
Gilbert’s own handmade ‘Highland Posh Nosh’
products are also available, including jams,
m raids, witches and much more. Helmsdale
LATHERON Castle once stood in Couper Park, but the last
chutneys, truffles and ice cream sauces, with n
fresh breads and homemade pies lovingly 15 miles SW of Wick on the A9 vestiges of it were demolished in the 1970s due
produced for sale. Much of the restaurant’s o to the unstable state of the ruins. In 1567, a
success is undoubtedly due to the owners, Mel
B Clan Gunn Heritage Centre
and Russ with their attention to detail and
p B Laidhay Croft Museum
famous tragedy - said to have inspired
undoubted passion for freshly prepared food q Shakespeare to write Hamlet - was enacted here.
made with quality, local ingredients. B Dunbeath Heritage Centre G Neil Gunn Isobel Sinclair had hopes that her son would
When visiting Gilbert s do leave time to r Latheron, unlike other villages in the area, has claim the earldom of Sutherland. She therefore
browse around the interesting selection of
s
antiques, collectables and items of furniture that a name derived from Gaelic, làthair roin, invited the then Earl and Countess and their
are displayed in the 50 feet warehouse. t meaning resort of seals. Within the old heir to dinner one evening. And poured them
Or if you are planning to stay in this church, which dates from 1735, is the Clan poisoned wine. The Earl and Countess died,
u
delightful seaside village, Mel and Russ have a but the heir survived. Unfortunately, Isobel’s
Gunn Heritage Centre. It traces the history
for short breaks and holiday lets. This can
v
fully modernised self catering apartment to let
of the clan from its Norse origins right own son drank the wine and died also.
accommodate up to 5 people and is available all through to the present day. At Dunbeath, The Strath of Kildonan, through which
year round. three miles south of Latheron, is the thatched flows the River Helmsdale, was the scene of a
fn
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famous Gold Rush of 1868. A local man coinage for Charles Edward Stuart’s Jacobite entrance is a strange triangular lintel. A few on mainland Britain. It was once a Norse
THE HIGHLANDS
called Robert Gilchrist, who had been a army tried to take shelter in the Kyle of miles beyond the broch is Ben Hope, at settlement, with its name meaning river of the
prospector in Australia, began searching for Tongue to escape HMS Sheerness, a 3041 feet Scotland’s most northerly Munro. god Thor. The ruins of St Peter’s Church sit
gold in the river. He eventually found some, government frigate. The crew took the The B873 strikes east from Altnaharra along in the old part of the town, and date from the
and once his secret was out, the Duke of coinage ashore for safekeeping, but were Strathnaver, following the loch and then the 16th century. It was once the private chapel of
Sutherland began parcelling off small plots of followed and captured by some Mackay river, until it joins the B871, which joins the the Bishop of Caithness, whose summer
land to speculators. At its height, more than clansmen, who were supporters of the A836 south of Bettyhill. It is a superb run, retreat was Scrabster Castle, of which only
500 men were prospecting in the area, anda a government. The crewmen threw the coins with magnificent scenery. scant remains survive. In the early 17th
shanty town soon sprung up. But in 1870, into a loch, but most were later recovered. century, a witch called Graycoat was held in
when sportsmen complained that the b Nine miles northeast of the village, within THURSO the church’s tower. The story goes that a man
c
prospectors were interfering with their fishing the old St Columba’s Church at Bettyhill, is the
19 miles NW of Wick on the A9 was having difficulty getting his whisky to
and hunting, the Duke put a stop to it all,dand Strathnaver Museum, with exhibits about A St Peter’s Church A Scrabster Castle ferment properly, and blamed a stray cat that
the gold rush was over. There is still gold local history, most notably the Clearances and had dipped its paw in it. He attacked the cat
there today, and it is a favourite spot for
e F Graycoat B Thurso Heritage Museum
and cut off its paw, which fell into the whisky.
Clan Mackay. Strathnaver was probably the A Thurso Castle A St Mary’s Chapel
amateur gold panners. f most notorious area in the Highlands for the When he drained the barrel, he found, not a
B Dounreay Visitor Centre
TONGUE
g eviction of tenants so that they could be paw, but a human hand. Graycoat was then seen
replaced with the more profitable sheep. The Thurso is a former fishing port on Caithness’s nursing a bandaged hand, and people quickly
50 miles W of Wick off the A838 h put two and two together, making five. She was
whole area abounds with prehistoric northern coast, and is the most northerly town
A Varrich Castle F Hazard archaeological sites, and within the kirkyard of summoned before the kirk elders and convicted
B Strathnaver Museum J Strathnaver Trail K the museum is a burial stone dating to the 8th
D Loch Loyal L or 9th century. The £190,000 Strathnaver Trail TEMPTATIONS
to the east of the village opened in May 2003 1 Rotterdam Street, Thurso, Caithness KW14 8AA
Tongue is a small village situated near thei and takes you round 16 sites, which date from Tel/Fax: 01847 893255
shallow Kyle of Tongue. Its name means j 5000BC to the 20th century. e-mail: katie@temptations.wanadoo.co.uk
exactly what it says, as it comes from the
Norse tunga, meaning a tongue, in this case a
k The A836 south from Tongue to Lairg The large display windows at Temptations do indeed look very inviting. Step inside and on the
ground floor you’ll find a ravishing array of imaginative gifts for all to enjoy. Owner Katie Gunn has
passes alongside beautiful Loch Loyal for
tongue of land. In 1972, a causeway was builtl put together a wonderful collection with a choice that includes wall hangings, candles, collectable
part of the way, and has some beautiful views. teddy bears, photo frames, mugs, bags, mirrors, trinket boxes, wooden animals and much much
across it to take the A838 westwards towards m more. There’s also a
Loch Eribol and Durness.
n ALTNAHARRA selection of local
The ruins of Varrich Castle (Caisteal 51 miles W of Wick on the A836 flagstone products.
Bharraich in Gaelic) sit on a rise above the
o The first floor is
C Dun Dornaigil Broch
loch, with a footpath taking you to them. Itp
dedicated to a large
selection of toys ranging
dates from the 14th century, and was once aq Sitting close to the western tip of Loch Naver,
from traditional farm
Mackay stronghold. It is said to be built on the Altnaharra is a small village famous as a centre animals and construction
foundations of a Norse fort.
r for game fishing. Loch Naver is the source of kits to dolls, soft and
The 16th-century House of Tongue, s the River Naver, one of the best salmon rivers wooden toys and a
Sylvanian collectors
in Sutherland, which flows northwards through
overlooking the Kyle of Tongue, was also a t centre. Whether it’s a gift
Strathnaver to the sea (see also Tongue). for a loved one, a
Mackay stronghold. It was destroyed in the u
On a narrow, unclassified road from christmas present for a
17th century, with the Mackays building a new nephew or a treat for
house sometime in the 18th century. The
v Altnaharra to Strath More and Loch Hope are yourself, you are sure to
gardens are open to the public. the remains of the Dun Dornaigil Broch. find it at Temptations.
Some of its walls rise to 22 feet, and over the
In 1746 a ship - the Hazard - carrying gold
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of being a witch. with eight doors, which gave onto an eight-

HALLADALE INN
THE HIGHLANDS
The Thurso Heritage Museum is located sided table. This house has now gone, though
Melvich, by Thurso, Caithness KW14 7YJ within an old cottage in Lyn Street, and has a mound marks its site. The Last House in
Tel: 01641 531282
displays and mementos relating to the town’s Scotland Museum contains displays and
e-mail: mazfling@tinyworld.co.uk
past. It is open during the summer. At the artefacts about the area.
website: www.halladaleinn.co.uk
mouth of the river are the ruins of the mock- To the west is Dunnet Head, the most
The Halladale Inn is not just a welcoming hostelry but also
offers a restaurant with a varied menu, bed & breakfast or
Gothic Thurso Castle, built in 1878 by Sir northerly point on the British mainland.
a
self-catering accommodation and a camping park. In the inn Tollemarche Sinclair on the site of a much
Between the two is the Castle of Mey, the
itself there’s a bar lounge with a real fire, a well-equipped older castle. At Crosskirk, a few miles west of
b
games room and a spacious restaurant that is bright and the town, are the ruins of St Mary’s Chapel,
late Queen Mother’s Scottish home. Built in
cheery with its colourful tablecloths and serviettes. Here the 16th century by the 4th Earl, it is a fairy-
c
you will find an appetising menu based on local produce and
dating from the 12th century. All that remains
story castle with a picturesque jumble of
d
supplemented by daily specials such as local brown trout. is the nave. At Holborn Head is the Clett
Rock, a huge natural pillar, or stack, situated towers, turrets and castellations. As far as
Just one hundred metres from the inn, the Chalet Park
esleep up to 4
has 4 self-catering chalets each of which can just offshore. possible, the castle is still set out very much as
people and comprises one double bed and 2 single beds.
f
The Park has private parking within a fenced garden and Eight miles west of the town, on the A836, is
when the Queen Mother stayed here.
Mary-Ann’s Cottage in the village of
g
guests have the option of using the laundry service in the Dounreay, where Scotland’s first operational
caravan site - a small charge applies. nuclear reactor was built. The Dounreay Dunnet shows how successive generations of
h a 4-star rating by the Scottish Tourist Board, has 14
The caravan park, which has been awarded Visitor Centre explains about nuclear power one crofting family lived and worked over 140
pitches, six caravans or motor homes with optional electric hook-up, and there are also 8 tent
and the history of the site. years. The cottage is named after its last
pitches. The site is conveniently located next to the inn which is open during normal licensing hours
K
with extended times on Friday evenings (until 1am) and on Saturday evenings (until 12 midnight). JOHN O’GROATS owner, Mary-Ann Calder, whose grandfather
had built the house in 1850. Mary-Ann lived in
L 13 miles N of Wick on the A99
the house until 1990 when, at the age of 93
VALLEYVIEW HOUSE i B Last House in Scotland Museum A Castle of Mey
years, she entered a nursing home in Wick
BED & BREAKFAST j B Mary-Ann’s Cottage B Northlands Viking Centre where she died
Murkle, by Thurso, Caithness KW14 8YT k C Nybster Broch The Northlands Viking Centre in the Old
Tel: 01847 895546 School House at Auckengill, five miles south
e-mail: antoinetterc@tiscali.co.uk
l John O’ Groats is 873 miles by road from
Land’s End in Cornwall, and 290 miles from of the village, tells the story of the Vikings
website: www.valleyviews.co.uk m and Norsemen in the area, as well as
Kirkmaiden in Wigtownshire, Scotland’s most
A warm Highland welcome awaits guests at n Valleyview House Bed
southerly parish. It is supposed to be named recounting the life of John Nicolson, a local
& Breakfast, the new family home of Antoinette and Stephen
Robertson-Carswell. Enjoying panoramic views o across the bay to after a Dutchman called Jan de Groot, who, artist and mason. Ten minutes away are the
Dunnet Head and beyond, Valleyview’s peaceful, country location is remains of the Nybster Broch, built about
p
only 5 minutes drive from the main ferry link to the Orkney Islands
to settle an argument about precedence
within his family, built an eight sided house 200BC to 200AD.
and 25 minutes from John O’Groats. Antoinetteq is a locally
renowned Interior Designer and loves to use her talent to bring out
r upgraded.
the best in their home which is constantly being
Breakfasts at Valleyview are an experience not to be missed as
s
Steven, who prepares them, was previously head chef and
manager of the renowned Ulbster Arms Hotel tand the only chef in
the county to hold the coveted AA rosette.
Children are very welcome at Valleyview,uthere’s a superb
v
garden for them to play in and a cot or high chair are available on
request. Horses too are welcome - there are fields available for
them. Other amenities include secure parking, and drying and
laundry facilities.

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Towns and Villages

TORLINNHE GUEST HOUSE LOCHABER FARM SHOP,

they are remembered by the Commando LAGGAN developed as an industrial

Col John Macrae Gilstrap who spent some 20

s Spe water than any other loch in Britain.

home. Four miles north of Kingussie is the

of being a witch. with eight doors, which gave onto an eight-

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