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2 The Countr y Living Guide to R ural Scotland - Fif e 3
FIFE
This guide book is one of a series of county-based digital travel guides covering
England, Scotland and Wales published by Travel Publishing in conjunction with
Country Living Magaz ine. This edition is available free of charge from licensed
distributors OBOOKO www.obooko.com
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edition must not be hosted or redistributed on other websites without written
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access to it, we suggest you demand a refund and report the transaction to the
publisher. f
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F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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LOCATOR MAP Fife
FIFE
Abernyte Dundee
Harrietfield Stanley Monifieth The county of Fife consists of a long its great cathedral, the impressive ruins of
Methven Scone
Gilmerton Wormit Tayport peninsula bounded on the south by the Firth which still overlook the shore. In it were kept
Balmullo Leuchars of Forth and on the north by the Firth of Tay. the relics of St Andrew, Scotland’s national
Comrie Crieff Perth Newburgh It is steeped in history, and for that reason is saint, and this made it the country’s
St Andrews
Auchterarder a
Dunning Cupar sometimes referred to as the Kingdom of ecclesiastical capital in pre-Reformation days.
Kingsbarns
Glenfarg b
Braco
Letham Fife. James II, who ruled from 1437 to 1460, It was also the seat of an archbishop and
Largoward Crail once called it a ‘fringe of gold on a beggar’s was where Scotland’s first university was
c Falkland FIFE
Kennoway Anstruther mantle’, meaning that, in his day, it had founded. Even today students can be seen
Dunblane Kinross d
Glenrothes prosperous coastal towns and a barren interior. dressed in their traditional red gowns as they
Alva Dollar Powmill e Pittenweem During the Cold War years, Fife was where scurry to lectures during term time. And the
Buckhaven Scotland would be governed from in the event place still attracts pilgrims, though now they
Alloa Clackmannan f Kirkcaldy of a nuclear attack. The underground Secret come in the name of sport, for the town - or
Dunfermline
g Bunker, as it is now known, was located on a perhaps we should call it a small city - is the
Airth
Kincardine h
Abedour Burntisland North Berwick farm near St Andrews. recognised home of golf.
Aberlady Dunfermline, still an important town, was The county’s largest town is Kirkcaldy,
South Queensferry
Falkirk Bo'ness K Longniddry
East Linton Scotland’s capital before Edinburgh took over, famous for the manufacture of linoleum. So
and on the coast there were small prosperous much so that people used to say that you could
Slamannan EDINBURGH L Haddington
seaports that traded with Europe. You can still always tell when you were approaching the
i see the European influence today. Some of the town by its ‘queer-like smell’. But this royal
Towns and Villages j

k
older buildings in the coastal towns have a
distinctly Low Countries feel to them, and
burgh has many historical associations. At one
time it was known as the Lang Toun, because it
Please click on any of the towns and villages some houses have red pantiles - brought in as appeared to consist of one long street, though
l
listed below for information on that location. ballast from the Netherlands and the Baltic it has now spread inland. And it can lay fair
m countries - instead of slates. These ports, with claim to being the birthplace of economics,
Aberdour pg 10 Dunfermline pg 7 Largo pg 23 names such as Crail, Pittenweem
Anstruther pg 31 Dysart n pg 22 Leuchars pg 42 and Anstruther, are still there,
Auchtermuchty pg 42 Earlsferry pg 36 Lochgelly pg 10 Dunfermline Abbey
Buckhaven pg 22 Elie
o pg 36 Methil pg 22 though now they rely on tourism
Burntisland pg 24 Falkland p pg 20 Newburgh pg 41 rather than trade.
Ceres pg 37 Glenrothes pg 20 Newport-on-Tay pg 43 Of all the towns on the
Charlestown pg 16 Inchcolm q pg 14 North Queensferry pg 15
Cowdenbeath pg 10 Inverkeithing pg 14 Pittenweem pg 33 county’s east coast the most
Crail pg 29 Kilrenny
r pg 33 Saline pg 10 famous is surely St Andrews.
Culross pg 16 s
Kincardine-on-Forth pg 18 St Andrews pg 25 Seen from a distance, it
Cupar pg 37 Kinghorn pg 23 St Monans pg 36
shimmers with spires and towers,
Dalgety Bay pg 13 Kirkcaldy t pg 18 Wemyss pg 22
and is crammed with ancient
u buildings and historical
v associations. It was formerly a
place of pilgrimage because of
A historic building B museum and heritage C historic site D scenic attraction E flora and fauna F stories and anecdotes G famous people H art and craft I entertainment and sport J walks
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was once a place of pilgrimage

Dunfermline In 1250 she was canonised by Pope
FIFE
because of the tomb of St Innocent IV, and it is said that Mary, Queen
Margaret. It is now the resting G St Margaret of Scotland A Dunfermline Abbey of Scots owned her skull as a religious relic. It
place of one of Scotland’s great B Palace Visitors Centre C Malcolm’s Tower later passed to the monks of Douai in France
heroes, Robert the Bruce. And, but was lost during the French Revolution.
E Pittencrieff Park B Pittencrieff House Museum
like Kirkcaldy, it too has its Scotland in the 11th century was a small
famous sons. Charles I was born B Abbot House Heritage Centre
kingdom, perched precariously on the edge
here in 1600, as was, in 1835, C St Margaret’s Cave G Andrew Carnegie
a of the known world. It was Margaret who
Andrew Carnegie, the millionaire B Andrew Carnegie Birthplace Museum brought refinement to the court and made
b philanthropist.
B Dunfermline Museum the country think of itself as an integral part
c Mining has given way to of Europe. Under Margaret and Malcolm,
B Scottish Vintage Bus Museum
d electronics as an employer, and who was also a driving force, trade with the
this part of Fife is well and truly Now an important industrial town, Continent flourished. Malcolm revelled in
e Dunfermline was at one time the capital of
part of ‘silicon glen’. But the area this, as though he could neither read nor
f hasn’t lost its attractiveness, and Scotland, and still has many reminders of its write, he hankered after refinement and
g one of the places that must be past glories. It was here that Malcolm III culture. He moved Scotland’s capital from
visited is Culross, surely one of (known as Malcolm Canmore, meaning
h Perthshire to Dunfermline to be nearer the
the loveliest and most historic bighead) and his second queen, later to Fife ports that traded with Europe. Under
Limekilns, Firth of Forth
small towns in Scotland. become St Margaret of Scotland, held court Margaret, the centre of power shifted once
because in 1728 Adam Smith was born here.K Since the opening of the Tay Road Bridge in the 11th century. more - this time to Edinburgh, which later
L
To the west of the county another industry in 1966, the towns and villages of northern Malcolm and Margaret married in 1070, and became the nation’s capital.
held sway - coal mining. The Fife coalfields Fife across the firth, such as Newport-on-Tay, their reign was a turning point in Scotland’s
used to employ thousands of men, but now
i history. Margaret was the daughter of Edgar
One other innovation is attributed to St
Tayport, Leuchars and Wormit, have become Margaret - buttons on the sleeves of men’s
j
it has all but gone. Dunfermline is the largest dormitory towns for Dundee. Even before Aetheling, heir-apparent to the English throne, jackets. She had been disgusted to see that
town in this area - another Fife royal burghk this people were commuting, thanks to the Tay and was half Saxon and half Hungarian. Scottish courtiers - in common with courtiers
whose roots go deep into Scotland’s history, Rail Bridge, opened in 1887 after the first When she came to the Scottish court in about
l throughout Europe - wiped their noses on
having been granted its royal charter in 1124. bridge collapsed into the firth in 1879 with 1067, she was shocked at what she found and, their sleeves, so set about making this habit as
Its abbey, like the cathedral at St Andrews,m much loss of life. with her husband’s consent, set about uncomfortable as possible. The buttons
n changing things. The Scottish church, though eventually became fashionable, and the fashion
nominally subservient to Rome, was still
o spread throughout Europe.
observing the old Celtic rites, which she found
p abhorrent. So the church was the first thing
She died soon after her husband and son
were killed in Northumberland in 1093 and
q she changed. A Culdee (from the Irish céli dé,
was buried in the abbey she had founded.
r meaning servants of God) monastery manned
Soon a cult grew up round her, and her burial
by Celtic/Irish priests had previously been
s established in Dunfermline. Margaret
spot became a place of pilgrimage. The
t remains of her shrine, destroyed during the
suppressed it and founded a Benedictine
Reformation, can still be seen.
u priory in its place and invited monks from
Dunfermline Abbey as we see it today is a
Durham to serve in it. The priory later became
v Dunfermline Abbey, and when Margaret died mixture of dates. The heavily buttressed nave
in 1093, she was buried before its High Altar. is Norman, and is reminiscent of Durham
Cathedral. Beneath it lie the remains of the
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bought it and threw it open to the people of one day, where he found her kneeling in
Abbot House Heritage Centre
FIFE
the town. Also in the park is Pittencrieff prayer. It’s fortunate that the cave still exists, as
Maygate, Dunfermline, Fife KY12 7NE House Museum (free), based in a 17th- in the 1960s the local council wanted to cover
Tel: 01383 733266 century mansion, which has an art gallery and it in concrete as part of a car park.
e-mail: info@abbothouse.co.uk displays on local history. Andrew Carnegie was, in the 19th
website: www.abbothouse.co.uk The Abbot House Heritage Centre (see century, the richest man in the world. He was
The award-winning Abbot House Heritage Centre is panel opposite) is housed in a 14th to 16th born in Dunfermline in 1835, and emigrated
the oldest house in Dunfermline, dating from 1450,
a
and stands in the centre of the historic area of the
century house to the north of the abbey in with his parents to the United States in 1848.
Maygate. It was formerly the Abbot’s By the 1880s, he had amassed a fortune
b
City and Royal Burgh of Dunfermline, Ancient Capital
Lodgings for the great Benedictine monastery, through iron and steel-making, and retired
of Scotland. It is conspicuous, not only for its
c
authentic pink livery….but for its enchanting and as well as its administrative centre. Poets, kings from business in 1901 to distribute his
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atmospheric visitor experience. Hardly an episode in and bishops visited, and it played its part in wealth. His humble birthplace in Moodie
Scotland’s turbulant past has failed to leave its mark some of the great events in Scottish history. Street, a former weaver’s cottage, is now the
e
on the fabric of this treasure house of history, with
St Margaret’s Shrine has been reconstructed central feature of the Andrew Carnegie
f
its crow-stepped gables, turnpike stairs and barrel
with its wall, showing just how rich the Birthplace Museum. It tells the story of the
vaults. It has witnessed the intrigues of Church and
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State and even outlasted much of the great Abbey it once served. From caring for the interior of the abbey was when it was at the great man from his humble origins to his
h
sick and needy to training aircraft spotters to ward off the Luftwaffe…..Abbot House has height of its powers. In all, more than 1000 death in 1919. In Pittencrief Park, close to
seen it all. years of history can be seen, from the Picts the Louise Carnegie Gates (named after his
Visit the displays on the two upper floors of the House which cover the history of right up until the present day. wife), is a statue of the great man.
K
Scotland, Kingdom of Fife and City of Dunfermline from the Picts to the opening of the Near Chalmers Street Car Park, about a It is not only New York that has a Carnegie
Forth Road Bridge in 1964. Enjoy delicious home-baking or a light meal in the Abbot’s
L
Kitchen Café, browse in the Gift Shop or relax in the beautiful south-facing garden.
quarter of a mile north of Abbot House, can Hall - Dunfermline has one as well, housing a
be found St Margaret’s Cave (free) where the theatre and concert hall. It can be found in
Open 7 days a week from 10am toi 5pm (closed Christmas Day, Boxing Day and New
pious queen prayed in solitude. A legend has it East Port, near the Dunfermline Museum
Year’s Day). j that Malcolm became suspicious of his wife’s and Small Gallery (free) in Viewfield. Here
original church. The choir was rebuilt in thek tells the history of the abbey and of the later unexplained absences from court, and fearing the history of the town is explained, including
early 1800s as the parish church, and it was l palace that was built on the site of the that she had a lover, followed her to the cave its time as a centre of manufacture for linen
during its construction that workmen came and silk, which continued right
across the skeleton of a man lying within a
m monastic buildings. A magnificent 200-feet
long buttressed wall is all that now remains of up until the 20th century.
stone coffin and wrapped with gold cloth. Itn the palace where Charles I was born. Special displays from the
was immediately recognised as that of Robert o To the west of the abbey is a great mound Dunfermline Linen Damask
the Bruce, King of Scots, since the breastbone known as Malcolm’s Tower, all that remains Collection are on view.
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and ribs had been sawn away. After he died, of Malcolm’s fortress. The town takes part of To the north of the town, at
Bruce’s heart had been removed from his q its name from the mound, as Dunfermline Lathalmond, is the Scottish
body so that it could be taken to the Holy r literally means fort on the hill by the crooked Vintage Bus Museum,
Land. The skeleton was re-interred with dues stream. housed in a former Royal
reverence, and now a brass plate beneath the It sits within Pittencrieff Park (famous Navy Stores depot. Opened in
pulpit marks the spot. Around the battlements t 1995, it is possibly the largest
for its peacocks), which was gifted to the town
of the abbey tower are the words ‘King u by Andrew Carnegie in 1908. The park had collection of vintage buses in
Robert the Bruce’. v always fascinated him as a boy, and as it was Britain. The museum is open
The Dunfermline Abbey Nave and privately owned at the time, he was always on Sunday afternoons during
Palace Visitors Centre (Historic Scotland) denied access. So when he had the money, he the season.
Andrew Carnegie Birthplace Museum, Dunfermline
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Around Dunfermline SALINE ARTIS 33 / SHORELINE STUDIO
FIFE
6 miles NW of Dunfermline on the B913
33 High Street, Aberdour, Fife KY3 0SH
COWDENBEATH I Knockhill Racing Circuit E Kirklands Garden Tel: 01383 860705
5 miles NE of Dunfermline, off the A909 Knockhill Racing Circuit is Scotland’s
websites: www.artis-33.co.uk/www.shoreline.sco.fm
Located in the picturesque seaside conservation village of
I Racewall Cowdenbeath national motor sports centre for cars and
Aberdour, Artis 33 / Shoreline Studio are housed in a
motorbikes, and has meetings on most unique property that dates back to the 17th century. They
This small town was at the centre of the Fife
Sundays from April to October. provides a light and airy exhibition space where you will
coalfields, and though the mines have long a Kirklands Garden extends over two acres find a wide range of paintings, prints, ceramics, stained,
gone, it still has the feel of a mining
b and is surrounded by 20 acres of woodland. In
cast and fused glass pieces, jewellery, sculpture,
photographs and antiques. The gallerys are owned and
community about it. Its football team has
perhaps the most unusual nickname of anyc
spring, it presents a spectacular display of managed by Judith and Ian McCrorie. Judith is an
rhododendrons, bluebells, wood anemones, accomplished artist herself and works in a range of media
senior team in Scotland - the Blue Brazils.d - oil, watercolours, fused, stained and cast glass,
hellebores and bulbs. There’s also a walled
Racewall Cowdenbeath has stock car racing e printmaking and ceramics.
terraced garden created in 1832, a bog garden, Judith has tutored students of all ages and abilities for
every Saturday evening from March to
November.
f statues and a plant sales area. more than 20 years and has worked as an examiner for
the Scottish Qualifications Authority and the Open College
g ABERDOUR of the Arts. At Artis 33, art workshops are offered
LOCHGELLY
7 miles NE of Dunfermline on the B981 h 6 miles E of Dunfermline on the A921 throughout the year and individual and small group tuition
is available.
A St Fillan’s Church A Aberdour Castle The studio is well equipped with printing presses, kilns for glass and ceramics and art, craft and
E Lochore Meadows Country Park G Ian Rankin
Lochgelly is a small mining town, famous
K I Aberdour Festival textile equipment. It is a colourful, fascinating place, full of great works of art that would adorn
any wall or shelf. The gallery space is available for hire.
throughout Scotland at one time for the L Aberdour is a small coastal burgh that received
manufacture of the Lochgelly, the leatheri strap its charter in 1500. The restored MYSTIQUE MOMENTS
used to punish children in school. St Fillan’s Church is partly Norman, with
j fragments that may date back to at least 1123, & THE GREEN WITCH
Loch Gelly itself, after which the town is
k
named, has water sports facilities. At one time, and has what is known as a ‘leper window’. 59-61 High Street, Aberdour, Fife KY3 0SJ
Tel/Fax: 01383 860106
the loch was famous for the quality of its l This was a window looking on to the altar
e-mail: chris@greenwitch.co.uk
leeches, used by doctors for bloodletting. m through which lepers could see from a private
website: www.greenwitch.co.uk
room the mass being celebrated. It is said that
Near the town is the Lochore Meadows
n Robert the Bruce, himself suffering from As you open the door of Mystique Moments & The Green
Country Park, set in 1200 acres of reclaimed Witch, you are greeted by the aroma of melting beeswax,
industrial land. The last pits closed here in o
leprosy, used the window after his victory at herbs and oils. You then notice the roaring fire and the
Bannockburn in 1314. In 1790, the church was rocking chair which is a favourite with customers. The room
1966, with the park being created on the sitepin is crammed full of enticing herbs - crystals, jewellery, hand-
abandoned, and gradually fell into disrepair.
the early 1970s. The area is now a haven forq made incense and beeswax candles, creams, soaps and
However, in 1925 work began on restoring it, home-made remedies. The magical atmosphere is enhanced
wildlife, and at the west end of the loch is a
bird hide with disabled access. The 260-acre r
and it is now open for services once more. by witches and fairies, along with Tarot cards, runes and
The town has two beaches, one of which, pendulums. Also on display are various magical works and
Loch Ore, created as a result of mining s prints by local artist Keli Clark.
Silver Sands, has won a European blue flag for
subsidence, is stocked with brown trout. It ist Owner Christine Quick established Mystique Moments in
its cleanliness.
also used for water sports. 1995 but her shop became known locally as The Green
u Aberdour Castle (Historic Scotland), close Witch because of the magical elements of the stock on
The famous crime writer, Ian Rankin, was
born at nearby Cardenden in 1960 v to the church, dates from the 14th century, display and because she recycled. She believes that her shop is unique in Scotland because she
makes many of the products herself and advises customers throughout the day or by e-mail.
when it was built by the Mortimer family, with
and educated at Beath High School Mystique Moments is certainly a great place to seek out unusual gifts whether it be the hand-made
later additions being made in the 16th and soaps and hand creams or stylish gemstone jewellery.
in Cowdenbeath.
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12 WALK|5
The Countr y Living Guide to R ural Scotland - Fif e WALK|5 13
Aberdour and past Hawkcraig Point with more spectacular views 6|Pass through this gap in the wall, turn right and 9|This signpost indicates ‘Aberdour by The
FIFE
and passes the appropriately named Silversands follow the path beside the railway line. This is the Heughs and Burntisland by the A921’. Turn right
Silversands Bay Beach, which has an award for a ‘Premium’ British
beach. The route then follows the railway line
longest and most pleasant section of this walk, here and climb up the steep steps. The path
with the rocky beach never far away. There is a becomes small but is easy to follow and continues
below 50m-high cliffs, the route passing through dramatic rock formation on your left at one point upwards through very pleasant woodland, as views
Distance: 3.7 miles (5.9 kilometres)
woodlands with a rocky beach only a few metres and later on a path down to a short, attractive back down to the coastline become more
Typical time:120 mins
away, visiting a pleasant cascade at Bendameer, section of the beach. The industry of Burntisland impressive.
Height gain: 80 metres before striking uphill and returning on a smaller,
Map: Explorer 367
can be seen ahead on the horizon. 10|Turn left at the signpost here and follow the
pleasant high path through deciduous woodland
Walk: www.walkingworld.com ID:1860
a The Heughs, back to Aberdour Village. There is a
7|Follow the path underneath the railway sign widening path, which begins gradually to descend
b dramatic clifftop view at one point near the end. and continue along the path, passing a turning to through the woodland.
Contributor: Oliver OBrien
the left (you’ll come back here shortly!). 11|The view here, to the left of the path, opens
ACCESS INFORMATION:
c FEATURES: 8|This is a rather attractive cascade, best viewed out suddenly. There is a sheer 50m drop in front
d
By train, there are regular services to Aberdour Sea, pub, toilets, play area, castle, wildlife, birds, from the bridge itself. Bendameer House is just and Silversands and Hawkcraig Point can be
flowers, great views, butterflies, café, gift shop, food ahead, but not visible from here. Although the clearly seen. The route continues along the path,
e
from Edinburgh (half-hourly via the ‘Inner Circle’
shop, good for kids, public transport, nature trail, Fife Coastal Path continues onwards, the next few descending slowly and bearing to the right. Ignore
and the spectacular Forth Rail Bridge) and limited
services from Aberdeen, Dundee and Perth. By f bus, restaurant, tea shop, waterfall, woodland. miles are rather unpleasant as they thread through a small path to the left.
Stagecoach in Fife Service Number 7 runs pastg the
WALK DIRECTIONS:
the industrialised Burntisland. So instead, turn 12|The path meets the main road here, at the
walk start, at Aberdour Station. By road, the start is around and retrace your steps back to that edge of Aberdour. Turn left and continue along
on the A921 Inverkeithing to Kirkcaldy road. h
1|(If arriving on a train from Edinburgh, cross
signpost you passed. the pavement, through the village and back to
over by the footbridge). Leave the station car park
and turn left off the main road, passing the Aberdour Station and the start of the walk.
ADDITONAL INFORMATION:
Part of the walk follows the Fife Coastal Path, K entrance to Aberdour Castle, open to the public.
which stretches over many miles from the Forth Continue straight ahead, follow the road around to 17th centuries. It was later owned by James Earl o’ Moray. Moray was the grandson of
Road Bridge at North Queensferry, to the Tay
L the right, pass a pub on your right and turn left, Douglas, 4th Earl of Morton and Regent of Regent Morton, regent of Scotland when
Bridge, across the water from Dundee. Aberdouri off Livingston Lane. Follow the narrow, walled Scotland between 1572 and 1578. In 1580 he Mary Stuart abdicated in favour of her infant
has a castle and gardens owned by Historic Scotland road down to the seafront. was executed for his part in the murder of son, later to be James VI. The earl was a
and open for public visiting.
j
2|There is a great view to Inchcolm Island here. Mary Stuart’s second husband, Lord Darnley. popular nobleman, dashing and handsome,
k The sign indicates the route of the Fife Coastal The Aberdour Festival is held every year at but he was also a staunch Protestant, and was
DESCRIPTION:
This walk takes in a short section of the Fife l
Path, so bear left and follow the promenade beside the end of July and offers 10 days of engaged in a long feud with the Earls of
the road, to the harbour entrance. Huntly, one of the great Catholic families of
Coastal Path, passing through a picturesque m celebrations with arts, crafts, song, dance,
Aberdour Village and its harbour, with views south 3|The road carries on down to the harbour. Bear puppetry, sports and much more. the time. The earl was implicated in a coup to
n
over the Firth of Forth to Edinburgh. It continues left here onto the raised path, passing to the left overthrow James VI, though he probably had
o of a gallery. Follow the path around the harbour, DALGETY BAY no involvement. But Huntly saw his chance
crossing a small bridge annd passing toilets.
0 200 400 600 800metres 1
KILOMETRES
4 miles SE of Dunfermline off the A921
p and, armed with a king’s warrant and a troop
MILES
0 200 400 600yards ½
4|There is a choice here. Either head left, climb

A St Bridget’s Church G 2nd Earl of Moray of soldiers, set out to seize the young earl.
Humbie
Newbigging
q the steps and continue along the road, passing a
He eventually found him at his mother’s
Wood
r large car park on your right, down into Silversands The ivy-clad ruins of St Bridget’s Church,
car park. Or carry straight on, following the path castle at Donibristle, in what is now Dalgety
once the burial place of the Earls of
Aberdour 12 10 9
s round (watching out for cliffs!) to Hawkcraig Dunfermline, date from the 13th century.
Bay. He demanded that he give himself up,
8 but Moray refused.
11
7 t Point. Pick up the access road and follow it round The church was first mentioned in a Papal Bull
to the left, leading into Silversands car park. The troops therefore set fire to the building.
u of 1178.
Castle 6 Silversands 5|Head along beside the appropriately named Some men ran out from the front of the castle
It was near Dalgety Bay that the murder of
1 3
5
Bay
v Silversands Beach, passing a playground at the far to distract Huntly’s men while Moray ran out
end. There are a couple of waymarks on the track James Stewart, the 2nd Earl of Moray, took
4 the back way, hoping to hide near the shore.
2 Hawkcraig
beside the beach, indicating the continuation of place, an event that is remembered in one of
Point Unfortunately, unknown to Moray, his bonnet
the Fife Coastal Path. the best-known of Scottish songs, The Bonnie
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had caught fire, and the smoke gave him away. In the late 18th century, a military hospital In the 14th century, Pitreavy Castle was
FIFE
He was hacked to death, with Huntly, it is said, was set up on the island to look after wounded owned by Christina Bruce, Robert the Bruce’s
striking the fatal blow. When James VI found sailors from the Russian fleet, which was using sister. It later passed to the Kellock family and
out about the murder, he feigned outrage. the Firth of Forth as a base. In the 20th the Wardlaws, who rebuilt it. From World War
When it later became known that Huntly had century, it was fortified as part of the United II until 1996, a bunker beneath the castle was
been armed with a king’s warrant, James had Kingdom’s sea defences, and some of these the naval operations HQ for Scotland. The
to flee to Glasgow to escape the wrath of the can still be seen. More than 500 troops were castle is reputedly haunted by three ghosts: the
public. Huntly spent a few weeks in Blackness
a stationed on the island, and the first air raid of Grey Lady, the Green Lady and a headless
Castle as a punishment, and was then released. World War II took place close by in 1939 Highlander who is said to moan in anguish.
b when German bombers dropped bombs not
INCHCOLM c far from the Forth Rail Bridge. NORTH QUEENSFERRY
6 miles SE of Dunfermline, in the Firth of Forth 4 miles S of Dunfermline off the A90
d INVERKEITHING
A Inchcolm Abbey B Forth Bridge Visitors Centre E Deep Sea World
e 3 miles S of Dunfermline off the A90
This small island was at one time known as J Fife Coastal Path
f
the Iona of the East. On it are the substantial
B Inverkeithing Museum C Battle of Inverkeithing
This small town, huddled beneath the massive
ruins of Inchcolm Abbey (Historic g G Admiral Sir Samuel Greig
piers of the Forth Bridges, was the northern
Scotland), dedicated to St Columba. Theh Inverkeithing is an ancient royal burgh, which terminus for the ferry that plied across the
story goes that Alexander I, son of Malcolm received its royal charter from William the Forth from South Queensferry in Edinburgh.
III and Queen Margaret, was crossing the Lion in about 1193. In medieval times it was a The ferry was originally founded by Queen
Forth in 1123 when a storm blew up and the K walled town with four ports, or gates, though Margaret in the 11th century to enable her to
L
royal party had to seek refuge on the island, the walls were pulled down in the 16th Inverkeithing Museum travel from Edinburgh to her palace in
which had, for many years, supported a i century. From the 1920s, the town became Dunfermline. The town sits on a small
Inverkeithing and of Admiral Sir Samuel
succession of hermits. The hermit of the known for its shipbreaking yards. Amongst the peninsula, which juts out into the Forth where
time shared his meagre provisions with hisj
Greig, a local man born in 1735 in what is
famous ships that met their end here were the now the Royal Hotel in the High Street. He the river has its narrowest point until the
guests for three days until the storm k battleship HMS Dreadnought in 1921, the Kincardine Bridge is reached.
entered the service of Tsarina Catherine of
subsided. When Alexander reached the shore l Titanic’s sister ships the Homeric and Olympic in Russia in 1764, and is credited with creating The opening of the Forth Railway Bridge in
he vowed to build a monastery on the island 1932, and the Mauritania in 1965. Over the
dedicated to St Columba in thanksgiving for
m the modern Russian navy, manning it initially 1890 meant that the ferries carried many fewer
years, countless aircraft carriers, battleships, with Scottish officers. He died in 1788 aged passengers across the river, but it was the
n
his safe passage, but before he could put his and vessels of every other shape and size were building of the Forth Road Bridge in 1964
only 53.
plans into effect he died. His younger o dismantled here.
Near the town, in 1651, was fought the that finally put them out of business.
brother, David I, who succeeded him,
p The town lies close to the Forth Road and Battle of Inverkeithing between a Royalist The Forth Bridges Visitors Centre is housed
founded a priory, which eventually became Rail Bridges, and has many old buildings. The within the Queensferry Lodge Hotel, and tells
the Abbey of Inchcolm in 1223. q force under Sir Hector MacLean of Duart
Mercat Cross is 16th century, and the Old and the Parliamentarian forces of Cromwell. the story of the two bridges spanning the
A small stone building to the west of the r Town Hall opposite, with its outside staircase, Forth. There is a magnificent scale model of
The result was a victory for the
abbey may have been the original hermit’s cell,
s dates from 1770. Of the 15th-century St the Firth of Forth, as well as photographs,
Parliamentarians, and the death of MacLean.
though it has been much restored over the Peter’s Church, only the tower remains, as the documents and artefacts.
years. The abbey buildings as we see them now
t As a result of the battle, the towns of
rest dates from 1826. Two other old buildings Inverkeithing and Dunfermline were Deep Sea World is billed as Scotland’s
date mainly from the 15th century, and u are Thomsoun’s House dating from 1617 and Aquarium, and takes you on a walk along the
plundered, and Cromwell’s ascendancy in
represent the most complete medieval abbeyv Fordell’s Lodging dating from 1670. ‘ocean floor’, thanks to the world’s longest
Scotland rose. A small cairn by the roadside
in Scotland, with most of the buildings Inverkeithing Museum housed in the underwater tunnel made of specially
opposite Pitreavy Castle (private), erected by
remaining intact. hospitium of an old friary, tells the story of toughened glass. Fish swim above and beside
the Clan MacLean, commemorates the event.
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you in a specially made sea containing a the houses were arranged in the shape of the Cross (dating from 1588) have a feature ventures. However, his home, now called
FIFE
million gallons of water. As you stand within founder’s initials - CE, Charles Elgin. known as the crown o’ the causie, a raised Culross Palace, still stands, and is open to the
it you can see sharks, stingrays and electric The works closed in 1956, having produced portion in the middle where only the wealthy public. Work started on it in 1597, and is a
eels. A special touch pool allows you to touch more than 11 million tons of quicklime in were allowed to walk, while the rest of the typical residence of its time for someone of
sharks, sea urchins and anemones. One of the their 200 years of existence. Now guided townsfolk had to walk on the edges where Sir George’s standing in society. It has
most popular experiences on offer at the walks round the complex are available in the water and dirt accumulated. splendid kitchen gardens. Along from it is the
aquarium is the chance to dive with sharks. summer months thanks to the Scottish Lime The town’s main industries were coal Town House, built in 1625 and gifted to the
a
North Queensferry is the start of the Fife Centre in the Granary Building in Rocks Road. mining, salt panning and the making of National Trust for Scotland in 1975 when
Coastal Path, a 78-mile-long pathway that baking griddles. Coal mining had been Culross Town Council was wound up. At one
passes through most of the small picturesque
b CULROSS introduced by the monks of Culross Abbey time, the ground floor was a debtors’ prison,
towns and villages on the Fife coast, ending cat 7 miles W of Dunfermline on a minor road off the at a time when coal was little known, and while the attic was used as a prison for
A985
the Tay Bridge on the Firth of Tay. d wondrous tales spread round Scotland about witches. It now houses the local tourist
A Mercat Cross F Sir George Bruce the ‘stones that could burn’. After the information centre.
CHARLESTOWN e
A Culross Palace A Town House A The Study Reformation, the mines were taken over by Beside the Mercat Cross is The Study. It
3 miles SW of Dunfermline on a minor roadf
off Sir George Bruce, a descendant of Robert was built about 1610 and, after the Palace, is
the A985 E Torry Bay Local Nature Reserve
g the Bruce. Between 1575 and his death 50 Culross’s grandest house. When the Church of
This small village was established in 1756h
by If you wish to see what a Scottish burgh years later, he revolutionised the industry. He Scotland was Episcopalian, the town formed
Charles Bruce, 5th Earl of Elgin, to exploit looked like in the 16th, 17th and 18th was the first man to extend a coal mine part of the diocese of Dunblane, and it was
the large deposits of limestone in the area, centuries, then the royal burgh of Culross is beneath the sea, something that is taken for here that Bishop Robert Leighton stayed on
K
including an easily worked crag facing the sea. the place to visit. It was granted its royal granted today. One of his mines had a tunnel his visits. The quaint Outlook Tower housed
It was Scotland’s first planned industrial L charter in 1592, and though having a that extended out under the waters of the his actual study, hence the name of the house.
village, though Bruce died before the work population of no more than a few hundred, it Firth of Forth for more than a mile. James If you continue past The Study, along
i had its own town council and provost up until VI was fascinated by Culross’s industry and Tanhouse Brae and into Kirk Street, you will
was finished. It was finally completed by the
7th Earl (of Elgin Marbles fame). There werej local government reorganisation in 1975. paid a visit. Sir George took him on a tour of eventually reach Culross Abbey, dedicated to
k
nine kilns here at one time producing lime for It is undoubtedly the most picturesque of the mine, and led the unsuspecting king along St Serf and St Mary. The choir of the church
building, agriculture and the making of iron l Fife’s old burghs - a situation that owes a lot the tunnel. When he emerged and found (restored in 1633) still stands, and is used as
and glass. It was a self-sufficient community, to the town’s relative poverty in the 18th, 19th himself surrounded on all four sides by the parish church, though the other buildings
with its own harbour, shops and school, and m and early 20th centuries when there was no water, he panicked, shouting ‘Treason!’ have either completely disappeared or are in
n money for modernisation. As an offshoot of the mining industry, salt ruins. It was founded in 1217 by Malcolm,
In the 16th century, it was a Earl of Fife, and housed a Cistercian order of
o prosperous port that traded
panning became another major occupation in
the town. It is reckoned that at one time monks who left Kinloss Abbey. It is likely that
p with the Low Countries, but there were 50 saltpans along the coast, all the site of the abbey is where St Serf founded
q when this trade dried up, it using inferior coal to heat salt water from the a monastery in the 6th century. Off the north
sunk into poverty. Now it is transept is the Bruce Vault, where there is an
r sea. Another industry was the making of iron
largely owned by the griddles for cooking. Culross blacksmiths are impressive monument to Sir George Bruce of
s National Trust for Scotland. Carnock, his wife and their eight children.
said to have invented these round, flat
t It is a thriving and lively utensils for frying and cooking after Robert Culross was the birthplace, in 514AD, of St
u community, with most of the Bruce, in the 14th century, ordered that Kentigern, patron saint of Glasgow. In 1503,
the quaint crow-step gabled each one of his troops be given a flat pan for Archbishop Blackadder of Glasgow erected a
v houses occupied. The streets cooking oatcakes. small chapel on the spot where the birth is
are cobbled, and those Nothing remains of Sir George’s mining supposed to have taken place, and its ruins can
Culross Palace, Culross
around the old Mercat
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still be seen to the east of the village. The the largest swivel bridge in Europe. It allowed
Kirkcaldy Museum & Art Gallery
FIFE
story goes that the saint was the son of ships to sail up to Alloa, but has not opened
Thenew (also known as Enoch), a princess of since the 1980s, when Alloa declined as a port. War Memorial Gardens, Kirkcaldy, Fife KY1 1YG
the kingdom of the Lothians. When her father The town has plenty of small, old-fashioned Tel: 01592 583213
Loth (after which the Lothians was supposedly cottages with red pantiled roofs, as well as the e-mail: Kirkcaldy.museum@fife.gov.uk
named) discovered that she was pregnant, he ruins of the 17th-century Tulliallan Church. website: www.friends-of-kirkcaldy-museums-and-art-gallery.org.uk
banished her from his kingdom and she set The burgh’s Mercat Cross also dates from the With an outstanding collection of Scottish Art, a visit to
sail in a boat across the Firth of Forth. She Kirkcaldy Museum and Art Gallery will inspire and entertain!
a 17th century.
Easy to find, it is next to the railway station, just five
landed at Culross, where she gave birth to her Sir James Dewar, inventor of the vacuum
son who was taken into care by a monk called b minutes walk from the busy shopping centre of Kirkcaldy –
flask and co-inventor of cordite was born in and absolutely free.
Serf (later St Serf), who had established a c the town in 1842. It was not until 1904, The gallery provides an oasis of calm where you can
monastic school there. It is now known that dSt however, that the vacuum, or Thermos, flask enjoy a fabulous range of art from the eighteenth century to
Serf lived in the century following Kentigern’s was produced commercially by a firm in the present day. Highlights include our nationally important
birth, so the story is doubtful.
e collection of work by colourist S.J. Peploe and ‘Scottish
Germany. The term ‘Thermos’ was coined in
f
But Culross’s attractions aren’t all historical. Munich, and comes from the Greek word Impressionist’ William McTaggart. Also on show are the
only paintings by Jack Vettriano owned by a public gallery.
Close to the town is Longannet Power Station, g therme, which means hot.
Not just an art gallery, we also have fascinating displays
one of Scotland’s largest. There are organised h To the west of the town is Tulliallan Castle, of local and natural history. After learning more about
tours (which have to be pre-booked), when you now the main police training college in celebrated economist Adam Smith, and industries such as
can see the huge turbine hall from a viewing Scotland. During World War II, it was the base coal mining and linoleum, why not finish a visit to the gallery
platform, as well as tour the visitors centre, K of the Polish Free Forces under the command by stopping off at our popular café? Relax and enjoy delicious home cooking and baking
which shows how coal produces electricity. L of General Wladislav Sikorski who was killed amongst colourful displays of Kirkcaldy’s prized Wemyss Ware pottery.
Stretching from Longannet past Culross to in an air crash in Gibraltar in 1943.
i modern funfair. The very first Links Market a promontory to the east of the town centre.
Combie Point on the shores of the Firth of
Forth, is the Torry Bay Local Nature j took place in 1306 in Links Street in the It was built in the 15th century by James II for
Reserve, where there is a series of artificial k
Kirkcaldy town, hence its name. his queen, Mary of Gueldres, who died there
lagoons built from the waste ash from Within Kirkcaldy Museum & Art in 1463. James had a passion for weaponry -
l I Links Market B Kirkcaldy Museum & Art Gallery
especially guns - and had the castle built so
Longannet. Here you can see many species Gallery (see panel above), in the War
of birds, such as shelduck, greenshank andm
A Ravenscraig Castle G Adam Smith Memorial Gardens, is an exhibition devoted that it could withstand the latest artillery. In
great crested grebe. n G Marjory Fleming to Wemyss Ware, a form of earthenware 1470, it passed to William Sinclair, Earl of
pottery that was produced in the town by the Orkney, who had to give up his earldom and
KINCARDINE-ON-FORTH o Kirkcaldy is the largest town in Fife, and is
Kirkwall Castle to acquire it.
famous for the manufacture of linoleum. At firm of Robert Heron and Son between 1882
10 miles W of Dunfermline, on the A985 p and 1930. It is now widley collected and is Overlooking the town harbour is the 15th-
one time it was known as the Lang Toun, due
This small burgh, which received its charterqin to the fact that it appeared to stretch out possibly the most sought after pottery ever century Sailor’s Walk, the town’s oldest house.
1663, sits at the north end of the Kincardiner along one main street. It was created a royal made in Scotland. Its most distinctive feature The Old Parish Church sits at the top of Kirk
Bridge. Up until the Forth Road Bridge s burgh in 1644, and one of the famous events is its decoration, which is bold, simple and Wynd, and dates from 1808. However, its
opened in 1964, this was the only road held here every year in April is the Links direct. The firing methods caused a lot of tower is medieval.
crossing of the Forth downstream from t Market, reckoned to be the longest street waste, which meant that the pottery was Adam Smith, the founder of the science of
Stirling. Opened in 1936, the middle sectionu fair in Europe. The town’s Esplanade is always expensive. The museum also houses a economics, was born in Kirkcaldy in 1723. He
used to swivel to allow ships to pass up the v cordoned off from traffic and taken over by local history collection, plus an extensive went on to occupy the chair of moral
river. It was controlled from a control room swings, roundabouts, dodgems, carousels, collection of Scottish paintings. philosophy at Glasgow University, and his
above the swivel section, and was, at the time, hoopla stalls and all the other attractions of a The ruins of Ravenscraig Castle stand on famous book, The Wealth of Nations, was partly
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written in his mother’s house (now gone) in 3000BC. It was moved to its present site in
Falkland Palace, Garden and
FIFE
the town’s High Street. Also born in the town 1971-1972 when the A92 was widened. The
were William Adam the architect, and his son, park was created in the estate of Balbirnie Old Burgh
Robert Adam. House, once owned by the Balfours.
Falkland, Cupar, Fife KY15 7BU
In the town’s Abbotshall Kirkyard stands a Another attractive feature of Glenrothes is Tel: 01337 857397 Fax: 01337 857980
statue to another person born in Kirkcaldy, the array of modern sculptures dotted around Tel shop: 01337 857918
but an unusual one. Marjory Fleming was a the town. There are more than 130 of them, website: www.nts.org.uk
a
child writer whose nickname was Pet Marjory. including giant flowers, totem poles and The Royal Palace of Falkland was the country
She died in 1811, and yet her writings have parading hippos. residence of Stuart kings and queens when they
b
intrigued and delighted people down through hunted deer and wild boar in the Fife forest. Mary,
the ages. She kept a journal, in which shec
FALKLAND Queen of Scots spent some of the happiest days of her tragic life here, ‘playing the country
10 miles N of Kirkcaldy on the A912 girl in the woods and parks’. The Palace was built between 1501 and 1541 by James IV
jotted down thoughts, poems and d and James V, replacing earlier castle and palace buildings dating from the 12th century,
biographical scraps. She was, by all accounts, A Falkland Palace I Royal Tennis Court
e traces of which can still be seen in the grounds. The roofed South Range contains the
a handful, and when her mother gave birth to B Town Hall Chapel Royal, and the East Range the King’s Bedchamber
another girl in 1809, Marjory was sent tof live and the Queen’s Room, both restored by the Trust. The
This little royal burgh sits in the shadow of the
with her aunt in Edinburgh. This is where g Lomond Hills. There are two distinct peaks -
Keeper’s Apartments in the Gatehouse are now also on
her writing began, encouraged by her cousin display. The palace contains fine portraits of the Stuart
h East Lomond, at 1471 feet, and West Lomond monarchs and two sets of 17th century tapestry hangings.
Isa, and she eventually filled three notebooks.
at 1713 feet, the highest point in Fife. The town The garden, designed and built by Percy Cane between
Nobody knows what she might have achieved
has quaint old cobbled streets lined with 17th- 1947 and 1952, contains three herbaceous borders
in adulthood, because, one month short ofK
and 18th-century cottages and was the first enclosing a wide lawn with many varieties of shrubs and
L
her ninth birthday, and after she had returned
conservation area established in Scotland. trees. Here also is the original Royal Tennis Court the
to Kirkcaldy, she tragically died of meningitis. oldest in Britain still in use built in 1539. There is also a
Her last piece of writing was a touching
i Falkland Palace (National Trust for
small herb garden border featuring quotations from John
poem addressed to her beloved cousin. Her j Scotland - see panel opposite) was a favourite Gerard’s book Herboll (1597). Exhibitions at Royal Tennis
writings were subsequently published, and k place of the Scottish kings. It was built in the Court and at Town Hall.
found great favour with the Victorians, 15th century by the Duke of Albany on the
l site of an earlier castle owned by the Earls of with Marjory, daughter of Robert the Bruce, Argyll’s Regiment to act as his personal
though some frowned on the absolute
honesty she displayed when it m Fife. James V later employed stonemasons to and it would die out with his own daughter. In bodyguard in Ireland, and this later merged
turn it into a magnificent Renaissance palace. this prediction, he was both right and wrong. with nine small regiments to form the Irish
came to describing her tantrums and n
innermost thoughts. It was never an important castle like It did die out ‘wi’ a lass’, but not Mary Stuart. Companies. While at Falkland, Charles II
o Edinburgh or Stirling. Rather, it was a country The last Stuart monarch was Queen Anne, renamed this regiment The King’s Lyfeguard of
p retreat for Stuart kings to hunt deer and boar who died in 1715. The Palace is still nominally Foot, and proclaimed it to be his bodyguard. It
Around Kirkcaldy q and get away from the affairs of state. the property of the monarch, and its chapel, was later renamed the Scots Guards.
James V died in Falkland Palace in 1542, and housed in what was the banqueting hall in the In the East Range can be seen the King’s
GLENROTHES r his daughter Mary Stuart, it is said, spent the South Range, is the only Roman Catholic Bedchamber and the Queen’s Room, and
5 miles N of Kirkcaldy on the A92 s best years of her tragic life at Falkland. Church in Britain within royal property. In within the Gatehouse are the Keeper’s
E Balbirnie Park t Mary was born a few days before James V 1654, Cromwell burnt the Great Hall to the Apartments. The gardens were laid out in the
died, and the story is told that when he was on ground, and it was never rebuilt. mid 20th century, and have magnificent
Glenrothes was one of the new towns u
his deathbed, aged only 30, and told about the Both Charles I and Charles II visited herbaceous borders. Within the gardens is the
established in Scotland in the late 1940s. In v
birth of a daughter and heir, he exclaimed: ‘It Falkland, and it was in the Palace, in 1650, that Royal Tennis Court, which dates from the
Balbirnie Park, which extends to 416 acres, is
cam’ wi’ a lass, and it’ll gang wi’ a lass!’, Charles II founded the Scots Guards. His father early 16th century, and is the oldest in the
a late Neolithic stone circle dating from about
meaning that the House of Stuart had started Charles I had founded a regiment in 1642 called country still in use. Here real tennis is played,
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with the roofs of the ‘lean tos’ on either side centuries. At one time this was a salt panning export coal. As with other Fife ports, it also castle is a solitarytower.
FIFE
of the court playing an integral part in the area, and Pan Ha’ (meaning Pan Haugh) is a had saltpans, and by 1677, three pans were in Alexander Selkirk was another seafaring
game. Tennis is still played here today, and group of particularly fine 17th-century operation, fuelled by coal. The Methil docks man who came from Largo. He was born in
there is a thriving club. The word ‘real’ simply buildings with red pantiled roofs (not open to were opened in 1887. In Lower Methil’s High 1676, and was the seventh son of a local
means royal, and it was a favourite sport of the public). St Serf ’s Tower is the tower of Street is the Methil Heritage Centre, a lively shoemaker. At the age of 19, the Kirk Session
kings throughout Europe at one time. It is said the former parish church, and dates from the community museum that explains the history ordered him to appear before it after fighting
that it dates back to at least the 11th century, 15th century. It looks more like a castle than a of the area. with his brother, but instead of appearing he
when monks played it in the cloisters of their
a tower, and reflects the area’s troubled times Buckhaven, to the west, was never as fled to sea where he eventually became a
abbeys and priories. In the 14th century, the when English ships prowled the Forth. In industrialised as Methil. It was once a fishing privateer, or legalised pirate, working for the
Pope banned the playing of the game, butb by Rectory Lane is the John McDouall Stuart port and ferry terminal, and has some old, British king.
this time it had become popular among thec Museum, dedicated to the life of a locally quaint cottages. In College Street there is the By all accounts he was a short-tempered,
nobility. d born explorer who, in 1861-62, made the first Buckhaven Museum, which has displays unpleasant man, and while sailing on a ship
At the beginning of the 19th century, the return journey across the Australian continent. about the town’s industries, including fishing. called the Cinque Ports in 1704 he quarrelled
e
Keepership of the Palace was in the hands of The former Harbourmaster’s House has Wemyss Castle Gardens are open to the with the captain who put him ashore (at
Professor John Bruce of Edinburgh f been recently redeveloped and now provides public during the summer months by prior Selkirk’s request) on the uninhabited island of
University. For six years he spent a lot of ghis visitors with an introduction to the features arrangement. The six-acre walled garden in its Juan Fernandez in the Pacific Ocean. He
own money on rebuilding and refurbishment, h that make Fife’s coastal area unique. present form dates from the mid 18th century, remained there until 1709, when he was
and when he died in 1826 he left the with new heated walls and an Orangery added rescued. Daniel Defoe, though he never met
Keepership to his niece Margaret and an
WEMYSS
before 1800. Set high atop cliffs looking out Selkirk, based his novel Robinson Crusoe on his
Indian lady. In 1828, Margaret married a K
4 miles NE of Kirkcaldy on the A955
across the Firth of Forth, Wemyss Castle adventures. A statue of Selkirk can be found
Bristol lawyer with the delightful name of L A MacDuff Castle (private) dates from the 13th century, although near the harbour.
Onesiphorus Tyndall, who added Bruce to his most of the present structure was built in the
name to become Onesiphorus Tyndall-Bruce.
i Below the substantial ruins of MacDuff
KINGHORN
Castle, near the shoreline, are some caves in 16th century. It was at the castle that Mary
His statue stands in the town. The Keepership j the sandstone cliffs with old carvings on the Stuart first met Lord Darnley, her second 4 miles SW of Kirkcaldy on the A921
later passed to John Crichton Stuart, Marquis k walls. They date mainly from between 400AD husband, in 1565. G Alexander III A Kinghorn Parish Church
of Bute, and his descendants still hold it.
l to 800AD, though some may go back to
LARGO
H Earthship Fife
The burgh’s Town Hall, which dates from before Christ. It has been claimed that there
1805, houses an exhibition about the town. m 11 miles NE of Kirkcaldy on the A915 This quiet little royal burgh saw one of the
are more carvings within these caves than in most decisive events in Scottish history. At the
Close to it, in the square, is a house with a n all the other caves in Britain put together. Due G Sir Andrew Wood G Alexander Selkirk
Pettycur Crags to the west of the town
plaque thatcommemorates Richard Cameron, o to erosion and subsidence, most of the caves There are two Largos - Lower Largo on the Alexander III was killed, throwing Scotland
a local schoolmaster and Covenanter, who can no longer be entered, though they may be
was killed at the Battle of Airds Moss in
p shores of the Forth, and Upper Largo about into turmoil. He was the last of the country’s
viewed from the shore. half a mile inland, where the Parish Church, Celtic kings and had previously married
Ayrshire in 1680. q some parts of which date from the early 17th
BUCKHAVEN AND METHIL Princess Margaret, daughter of Henry III of
DYSART
r century, stands. It was here that Scotland’s England, who had borne him two sons. But
7 miles NE of Kirkcaldy on the B931
NE suburb of Kirkcaldy on the A955 s greatest seafarer and one time Admiral of the Margaret and the sons died; so, at the age of 45,
B Methil Heritage Centre B Buckhaven Museum Fleet, Sir Andrew Wood, had his home. He
A Pan Ha’ B John McDouall Stuart Museum t Alexander married again, this time Yolande,
E Wemyss Castle Gardens died in 1515, and was buried in the kirkyard. daughter of the Count of Dreux in France, in
A St Serf’s Tower B Harbourmaster’s House u He oversaw the building in Newhaven of the the hope of continuing the direct royal line.
Buckhaven and Methil constituted one burgh,
The harbour area of Dysart is very v which was created in 1891. Its motto was
largest and most magnificent fighting ship of After a meeting of his nobles at Edinburgh
picturesque with whitewashed cottages and its day, the Great Michael, flagship of the in 1286, Alexander was anxious to return to
Carbone Carbasoque, which means By Coal
houses dating from the 16th, 17th and 18th Scottish fleet. All that remains of Wood’s his queen who was staying at Kinghorn Castle
and by Sail, reflecting the fact that it used to
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(now gone). The weather was stormy, and some overlooked by a 632-feet-high hill called The history. The highlight of the summer is the St Andrews
FIFE
of his men tried to dissuade him from crossing Binn. In medieval times, Burntisland was the Highland Games in July, which attract around
the Forth. However, he was adamant, and was second most important port on the Forth 30,000 visitors to the town. The annual Civic A St Andrews Cathedral A St Rule’s Tower
taken across to Fife. But while riding along the after Leith, and in Victorian times exported Week is held in June, and includes the A St Mary on the Rock A St Andrews Castle
Pettycur Crags, almost in sight of the castle coal from the Fife coalfields. It is now crowning of the Summer Queen.
G Cardinal David Beaton
where his wife awaited him, his horse stumbled, more of a resort with a popular Blue Flag Open during the summer months, The
sending him over the cliffs to his death. It is G Archbishop James Sharp
sandy beach. Museum of Communication is the only
said that the spot is haunted by the ghost of G Patrick Hamilton A St Salvator’s Church
a St Columba’s Parish Church is a four museum in the UK that focuses on how our
Yolande, still waiting for her husband to return square building dating from 1592, and is commuication systems have developed. It A St Leonard’s Chapel E Queen Mary’s Thorn
to her arms. b
possibly based on a Dutch design. It was the specialises in communications technology A Queen Mary’s House I Old Course
The heir to the Scottish throne was now c first church built in Scotland after the from the pre-electric telegraph to the present B Museum of the University of St Andrews
three-year-old Margaret, known as the Maid dof Reformation that is still in use today, and has time. It has a major collection of artefacts
Norway. She was the daughter of Alexander’s G Pierre de Châtelard A Dominican Friary
e a wealth of detail inside, including elaborate covering Early Electrics, Telegraphy,
A Holy Trinity Parish Church A West Port
own daughter, who had married Eric II of lofts and pews. The nave sits at the centre of Telephony, Radio, Television and
Norway. But while crossing from Norway f to the church, with the altar, or Holy Table, Information Technology, together with a B St Andrews Preservation Trust Museum
Scotland, Margaret also died, leaving the g sitting in the middle. The pews face it on large number of supporting Printed Items. B St Andrews Museum E St Andrews Aquarium
country without an heir. In the resultant h four sides, emphasising the ‘equality of all The restored Rossend Castle, at the A Martyr’s Monument B British Golf Museum
vacuum, noblemen jockeyed for position, believers’. It is the birthplace of the western end of the town, was the scene of a G Tom Morris J Scottish Coast to Coast Walk
putting forward many claimants to the throne. Authorised Version of the Bible, as James VI bizarre incident concerning Mary Stuart and
Edward I of England was asked to intercede,K attended a General Assembly of the Church H Crawford Arts Centre E Craigton Country Park
a love-struck French poet who broke into her
and he saw his chance. He tried to incorporate L of Scotland here in May 1601, and put room to declare his undying love for her. As E Cambo Gardens E St Andrews Botanic Garden
Scotland into his own kingdom by installing a
puppet king, and thus began the Wars of
i forward the proposal for a translation of the he had attempted it once before at Holyrood, St Andrews is one of the most important and
Bible into English. The suggestion was he was later executed. The castle has recently historic towns in Britain. Perhaps one should
Independence. A tall monument at the sidej of
enthusiastically received, but it was not until been modernised and is now used as offices. call it a city, as it was, in pre-Reformation
the road, erected in 1886, marks the spot where k James had assumed the throne of Britain times, Scotland’s ecclesiastical capital on
Alexander was killed.
l that work began. account of its huge
Kinghorn Parish Church dates from 1774,
though there are partial remains of an earlierm
James’s son, Charles I, had good reason to cathedral, which was
remember Burntisland. In 1633, he lost most Scotland’s largest
church dating from 1243 in the kirkyard. n
of his treasure, estimated to be worth more building in medieval
Earthship Fife, at Kinghorn Loch, is an o
than £20m in today’s money, when his times. It is also a
unusual building made of used car tyres and
p
soft drink cans. It has its own heating, lighting,
baggage ship, the Blessing of Burntisland, university town, and
foundered and sank just off the coast here. the home of golf.
water supply and sewage works, and explainsqall
Nineteen witches who, it was claimed, had St Andrews
about eco-buildings and sustainable lifestyles. r
put a curse on the ship, were executed. In Cathedral (Historic
BURNTISLAND s 1999, the wreckage was finally located, lying Scotland) was begun
6 miles SW of Kirkcaldy on the A921 t in a few metres of silt. Plans are afoot to by Bishop Arnold in
explore it. 1160, though the
A St Columba’s Parish Church u magnificent ruins you
The Burntisland Edwardian Fair Museum
B The Museum of Communication v is in the High Street, and features displays see today date from
This small royal burgh, called Portus Gratiae, about Edwardian fairgrounds and local many periods. The
or Port of Grace by the Romans, is St Andrews Castle choir was the first part
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to be built, and shows both Norman and church in Scotland. However, the monks later and executed. Perhaps the most amenities is The Museum of the University
FIFE
Gothic details. The nave was completed in the gradually adopted the rites of the Catholic surprising thing about James Sharp was that of St Andrews (MUSA), which opened in
late 13th century, though the great west front Church and its priests were soon allowed a he himself had once been sympathetic to the October 2008. It puts on display to the public
was blown down in a gale and had to be place in the cathedral chapter. Covenanting cause. for the first time some of the real treasures
rebuilt. The whole building was finally St Andrews Castle was the archbishop’s Another Protestant who was executed in the amongst the University’s collection of more
consecrated in July 1318 in the presence of residence. It too sits on the coast, and its ruins town was Patrick Hamilton, who was burnt than 112,000 artefacts. The museum has four
Robert the Bruce. As well as being a cathedral, are sturdy yet picturesque. The first castle on at the stake in 1528. The spot is marked by his galleries, a Leaning Loft and a viewing terrace
it was also a priory served by Augustiniana the site was probably built in the early 13th initials incorporated into the cobbles outside with panoramic views over St Andrews Bay.
canons. century, though this has been rebuilt and St Salvator’s Church in North Street, part of In February 1563, a French poet called
b
This wasn’t the first cathedral on the site. In altered over the years. It was here, in 1546, that St Salvator’s College. The church was founded Pierre de Châtelard was executed in Market
about 1127, a more modest church was built, ca Cardinal David Beaton, Archbishop of St in 1450 by Bishop James Kennedy, not only to Street. He had accompanied Mary when she
remnant of which still remains. This is d Andrews, was murdered. In March of that serve the college, but as a place of worship for returned from France, and swore undying love
St Rule’s Tower and its attached chancel, to year, George Wishart the Protestant reformer the people of the town. for her. However, he went too far, twice
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the south of the ruins. From its top, there’s a had been burnt at the stake in front of the It was on August 28 1413 that Pope breaking into Mary’s bedroom - once in
magnificent view of the town. f castle on Beaton’s authority, which made him Benedict XIII issued six papal bulls Holyrood and once at Rossend Castle near
Legend tells us that St Rule (or Regulus)g many enemies. In May, a group of Fife lairds authorising the founding of the university, Burntisland. He was taken to St Andrews
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came from Patras in Greece in the 4th century, broke into the castle and murdered the which is Scotland’s oldest, and the third oldest Castle, and there imprisoned. On February 22
carrying with him the bones of St Andrew. He Cardinal in his bedroom, hanging the corpse university in the English-speaking world. At he was brought to trial and condemned to
set up a shrine for them on the Fife coast, at from the window. There then followed a long first the classes were held in the cathedral, but death. On the scaffold, he read out a poem
what was then called Kilrimont - present day K siege of the castle, during which sappers this was found to be unsatisfactory. In 1450, called Hymn to Death, then cried out ‘Farewell
St Andrews. A more likely story is that the L working for the Earl of Arran dug a tunnel Bishop Kennedy founded St Salvator’s cruel dame!’.
bones were brought here by Bishop Acca of beneath the fortifications to gain entry. These College, and classes moved there. In the 16th Many people made political capital out of
i tunnels can still be seen today.
Hexham in 732AD. The relics were eventually century, two other colleges were founded, St the incidents, saying Châtelard had been in the
transferred to the later building, housed in ja Beaton was not the only Archbishop of St Leonard’s and St Mary’s. St Leonard’s Chapel pay of the French, or that Mary had been his
shrine behind the high altar. St Andrews soon k Andrews to have been murdered. The other was built long before the college came into mistress. John Knox even claimed that when
became a place of pilgrimage, with people l one was Archbishop James Sharp, the being, its earliest parts dating from the 12th the poet had said ‘cruel dame’ he had actually
coming from all over Europe to pray at the Protestant archbishop when the Church of century. meant ‘cruel mistress’, showing that Mary and
shrine. However, in 1559 John Knox preached m Scotland was Episcopalian. He had embarked St Mary’s College is undoubtedly the he were closer than was proper for a queen
a fiery sermon in the town, which resulted in n upon a savage and bloody persecution of loveliest of today’s colleges. Step through the and a commoner. However, there is little
reformers sacking the cathedral and destroying o Covenanters, those people who wished the arch from South Street and you are in a doubt that he was just a foolish young man
the fittings and altars. Though there were church to remain Presbyterian, and so was a grassed quadrangle surrounded by old, mellow who had unwisely fallen in love with a queen.
plans to restore the building, by 1600 it was
p hated man. In May 1679, he was returning to buildings from the 16th century onwards. At Further along South Street, in front of
being used as a quarry for building material.q St Andrews from Edinburgh in a coach with the foot of the Stair Tower is Queen Mary’s Madras College, one of the town’s schools, is
To the east of the cathedral and outside itsr his daughter. At Magus Muir, near the city, he Thorn, said to have been planted by Mary all that remains of the Dominican Friary.
precincts, are the scant ruins of another s was waylaid by Covenanters. Not averse to Stuart in 1565. She visited the town five times, This is the 16th century north transept of the
church, St Mary on the Rock. When the acts of unspeakable cruelty themselves when and possibly lodged at what is now known as friary church, with some wonderful tracery in
cathedral was being built, there were Culdee t it suited them, they stabbed the archbishop Queen Mary’s House in South Street. It its windows. The friary was originally
monks of the old Celtic church at St Andrews u to death in front of his daughter. This was dates from about 1525, and was built by one founded in the 13th century by Bishop
who refused to join the cathedral priory. In v the not the first attempt on his life. In 1668, a of the cathedral’s canons. Charles II also William Wishart.
13th century they built this church for man called James Mitchell had attempted to stayed in it in 1650. Almost across from it is Holy Trinity
themselves, which became the first collegiate murder him. Mitchell was captured six years The most recent addition to the university’s Parish Church. It was founded in the 15th
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by is the British Golf Museum, which Cambo has been the home of the Erskine featured on countless calendars and postcards.
FIFE
illustrates the history of a game that family since 1688, though the present mansion Artists flock to the place because of the light
Scotland gave to the world, with a dates from 1881. There are also 70 acres of and the quaint buildings. The Tolbooth dates
particular focus on St Andrews. It has woodland, which is famous for its snowdrops. from the early 16th century, with a tower
an array of exhibits from over 500 years The internationally recognised St Andrews dated 1776, and has Dutch influences. In the
of golfing history, and gives an insight Botanic Garden displays within its seven- Marketgate is the Crail Museum and
into ‘surprising facts and striking feats’. hectare site an extensive range of rare and Heritage Centre, which traces the history of
a St Andrews and golf are inseparable. beautiful plants, both under glass and in the the town and its industries. During the
The town is still a place of pilgrimage, open. summer months, the museum offers guided
b only today the pilgrims come wearing walks around the town.
British Golf Museum, St Andrews

c Pringle sweaters and weighed down by Around St Andrews At Troywood, three miles west of the town,
d golf bags. The Royal and Ancient Golf off the B9131, is perhaps the most unusual
century, though the building as we see it today Club is the world’s ruling body on the CRAIL visitor attraction in Scotland. The Secret
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dates largely from a rebuilding early in the game (with the exception of the United 8 miles SE of St Andrews on the A917 Bunker was Scotland’s underground
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20th century. The only surviving parts of the States), and formulates its rules as well as command centre in event of a nuclear attack.
A Tolbooth B Crail Museum & Heritage Centre
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medieval building are to be found in the west organising the yearly British Open It has an amazing 24,000 square feet of
Championship. The most famous of the C Secret Bunker H Jerdan Gallery accommodation on two levels, 100 feet
ha
wall, some pillars and the tower. It contains
memorial to Archbishop Sharp, slain in 1679, town’s courses is the Old Course, and it is The royal burgh of Crail is one of the oldest underground and encased in 15-feet-thick
though his body no longer rests under it. No here, in the clubhouse, that the Royal and ports in the East Neuk (East Corner), as this concrete walls. It was from here that the
doubt it had been removed and disposed ofKas Ancient has its headquarters. area of Fife is known. It is also possibly the country was to have been run in the event of
soon as the Scottish church reverted to L Two of the greatest names in golf were most picturesque, and the small harbour has war with the Soviet Union. It is entered by an
Presbyterianism. born in St Andrews - Tom Morris and his
i CRAIL POTTERY
At the west end of South Street can be son, also called Tom. Old Tom was made
found the West Port, one of the original gates
j green keeper at the Old Course in 1865, and 75 Nethergate, Crail, Fife KY10 3TX
into the town. It was built about 1589 on the k was one of the best golfers of his day. His Tel: 01333 451212
site of an earlier port. In North Street is the l son, however, was even better, and won the e-mail: sarah@crailpottery.com
St Andrews Preservation Trust Museum Open Championship three times in a row website: www.crailpottery.com
and Garden, housed in a charming building
m while still a teenager. He died in 1875, aged The village of Crail is famed for it’s picturesque and
dating from the 16th century. It has displaysn

much photographed harbour, historic buildings and for
only 24, some say of a broken heart after his
Crail Pottery. The pottery is set amidst a beautiful pot
and artefacts illustrating the town’s history. o wife died in childbirth. Memorials to both and flower filled yard in the heart of the village.
The St Andrews Museum at Kinburn Park men can be seen in the cathedral graveyard. Established in 1965 by Stephen and Carol Grieve. In
p 1997 their daughter Sarah set up Crail Ceramics and son
also celebrates the town’s heritage. The Crawford Arts Centre, originally part
At the Scores, down near the shore, you’ll
q of the university, is in North Street, and has
Ben and his wife Jane established Crail Earthenware. The
businesses run along side each other and produce a
find the St Andrews Aquarium, which not r regular exhibitions of art and craftwork by diverse range of stoneware and brightly coloured
living artists. Craigton Country Park sits earthenware. From cooking pots to mugs and salad sets
only lets you see lots of fish and animals froms to garden pots. Every item is hand thrown, decorated,
sea horses to seals, and piranha to sharks, but about a mile outside the town to the
lets you touch some as well. Also on the
t southwest. It has a small boating loch,
glazed and fired here on the premises. All the pottery
produced is sold in the packed showroom and quaint yard.
Scores is the Martyr’s Monument, which u miniature railway, aviary, pets corner, The two workshops are filled with potter’s wheels, clay
mixers and pug mills. The potters can be seen at work. The
commemorates the Protestant martyrs who v glasshouses, restaurant and café. Cambo
pottery boasts an Award for Excellence from Scotland the
were executed in St Andrews. It is a tall, Gardens is a two-and-a-half acre walled Best and it’s famous customers include Tony Blair and Billy Connolly. The pottery is open from 9am -
needle-like monument, erected in 1842. Close garden within the Cambo estate at Kingsbarns. 5pm, Monday - Friday and 10am - 5pm, Saturday and Sunday. Open all year round.
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innocent looking farmhouse, and guarded by people of the town. The ship’s commander
FIFE
three tons of blast proof doors. As well as was one Jan Gomez de Midini, and he and his
operations rooms, living quarters and six crew were offered hospitality (this at a time
dormitories, it also contains two cinemas, a when Scotland and England were still
café and a BBC sound studio. Several similar independent countries). A few years later, the
bunkers were built around the country, but Spaniard repaid his debt when he discovered
this is one of the largest. It came off the fishermen from Anstruther marooned in a
a Official Secrets list in 1993 at the end of foreign port after their boat had been wrecked.
the Cold War. He re-equipped them and sent them
b The four star Jerdan Gallery, in Marketgate homewards once more.
c South, has a wide variety of paintings and Located in 16th century St Ayles House,
d craftwork from the 19th and 20th centuries, once a lodging house for the monks from
with exhibits changing on a monthly basis. Balmerino Abbey, is the Scottish Fisheries
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There is a superb sculpture garden at the rear. Museum (see opposite), which was opened in
f 1969. Here you can follow the fleet with the
ANSTRUTHER
g ‘herring lassies’, explore a typical fishing
9 miles S of St Andrews off the A917 family’s cottage, and see skilled craftsmen at
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B Scottish Fisheries Museum E Isle of May work. Also on display are two boats - a 78-
Anstruther (sometimes pronounced Ainster) is feet-long Zulu built in the early 1900s and
K a former herring fishing port. It comprises based on an original African design, and the
L two ancient royal burghs, Anstruther Easter Reaper, a fifie herring drifter built in 1901. In a
small private chapel is the poignant Memorial
i and Anstruther Wester, and is a picturesque
to Scottish Fishermen Lost at Sea.
place full of old white-washed cottages with
j red pantiled roofs and crow-stepped gables. Six miles southeast of Anstruther, in the
k There is a story that, after the English Firth of Forth, is the Isle of May, measuring
l defeated the Spanish Armada in 1588, one of just over a mile long by a quarter of a mile
the ships of the Spanish fleet put in at wide at its widest. There are the scant remains
m of an old Augustinian priory, dedicated to St
Anstruther and was civilly received by the
n Oran and St Colman, which was
o Isle of May, off Anstruther founded by David I and
colonised from Reading Abbey in
p England. In 1996, an
q archaeological investigation
r uncovered the remains of a
9th-century church - one of the
s
oldest on Scotland’s east coast.
t The whole place is now a national
u nature reserve managed by
Scottish Natural Heritage. It was
v
on this island that Scotland’s first
lighthouse was built in 1635. It
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was no more than a small stone tower with a PITTENWEEM

PITTENWEEM BUSINESSES -
FIFE
brazier atop it, which burnt coal. Trips to the 9 miles S of St Andrews on the A917
OFFERING A WIDE RANGE OF PRODUCTS AND SERVICES. island are available from the pier at C St Fillan’s Cave A Kellie Castle
Traquairs Village Shop & Studio - wines & wide range of convenience & fresh local produce. Anstruther.
Open 08.00 - 19.00 Daily. Photography & Art Studio: Call 01333 310809. For Appoint to view/ The older houses in this small royal burgh
discuss requirements. website: www.maureentraquair.com Tel: 01333 311498. KILRENNY crowd round the picturesque fishing harbour,
e-mail: mtraquair@goldbraid.fsworld.co.uk 4/5 Market Place, Pittenweem, KY10 2P. 9 miles S of St Andrews on the A917 which is now the busiest of all the fishing
Pittenweem Pharmacy - Post office and Pharmacy offering stationary, gifts, cards, health
A Kilrenny Parish Church harbours in the area. Like most of the houses
a
products and health checks. Tel: 01333 311243. 7 Market Place, Pittenweem, KY10 2PH.
in the East Neuk, they are whitewashed with
Open 07:00-18:00 Mon-Sat (closed 1-2pm)
b Kilrenny Parish Church has a tower dating red pantiled roofs and crow-step gables. An
Donald Butchers - Traditional Butchery offering locally grown vegetables, in-house pies & cooked
from the 15th century, though the rest is early
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meats. Tel: 01333 311212. 14 High Street, Pittenweem, Fife, KY10 2LA.
19th century. In the Kirk yard is a mausoleum
Augustinian Priory was founded here in the
Open 07:00-17:50 Mon-Sat, Wed 07:00-14:00 (closed 1-2pm) 12th century by monks from the Isle of May,
d
Stuart Barton Physiotherapy - Stuart has been the Scotland Rugby Team Physiotherapist since to the Scotts of Balcomie. There are many
though very little of it now remains. The
1998 and has now opened his new clinic in Pittenweem specialising in sports injuries & spinal
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manipulations. website: www.stuartbartonphysiotherapy.com Tel: 01333 311651.
picturesque 18th- and 19th-century cottages,
Parish Church has a substantial tower (which
formerly the homes of fishermen. The name
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15 East Shore, Pittenween. Open 07:15-20:00 Mon-Fri.
Kilrenny actually means the church of the
looks more like a small castle than a piece of
Sea Fare (The FMA Shop) - Selling sailing and leisure wear, general hardware, nautical gifts and ecclesiastical architecture) dating from the
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homeware. e-mail: admin@kindomseafood.co.uk Tel: 01333 311263. 23 East Shore, Pittenweem, bracken, and the village may be one of the 16th century, while the rest is Victorian.
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KY10 2NH. Open 09:00-17:00 Mon-Wed, 08:00-17:00 Thurs & Fri, 09:00-12:00 Sat. earliest settlements in the area.
Pittenweem means the place of the cave,
Fisherman’s Mutual Association (Pittenweem ) Ltd - Marketing of fresh shellfish.
Tel: 01333 311263. e-mail: admin@kindomseafood.co.uk 23 East Shore, Pittenweem, KY10
2NH. Open 08:00-17:00 Mon-Fri. K
The Royal Burgh of Pittenweem Arts Festival - 100 Artists, Exhibitions & Events in scenic THE LITTLE GALLERY
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seaside village. website: www.pittenweemartsfestival.co.uk Tel: 01333 313903. 47 High Street,
20 High Street, Pittenweem, Fife KY10 2LA
Pittenweem, KY10 2PG. Open 1st Sat of August every year until 2nd Sunday.
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The Coach House Pittenweem - Studio Gallery exhibiting contemporary craft & textiles.
Tel: 01333 311227
The Little Gallery in Pittenweem is owned and run by Dr
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e-mail: jean@bradart.demon.co.uk. Tel: 01333 313700. School Wynd, Pittenweem, KY10 2PN.
Ursula Ditchburn who hails from Zurich in Switzerland and
Open 11:00-17:00 daily, 14:00-17:00 Sun (closed Wed), Jan-1st April Weekends.
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The Cocoa Tree Shop & Café - Specialist Chocolate Shop & Café serving hot chocolates &
came to Scotland in the 1950s. She was trained by an uncle
who was an antiques dealer in Zurich and today her gallery
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decadent chocolate cake as well as savoury snacks. websites: www.thecocoatreeshop.com / displays a fascinating collection of antiques, paintings,
www.pittenweem.biz (Holiday-Let Apartment above shop) Tel: 01333 311495. rustica, small pieces of Edwardian furniture, and china from
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9 High Street. Pittwenweem. KY10 2LA. Open everyday 10.00–18.00 All Year Round. the 18th to 20th centuries. There’s also lots of Art Deco items. Two to three times a year the
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Pittenweem Fish Bar - Traditional Fish & Chip Take-away. Tel: 01333 311-258. 5 High Street, Gallery hosts exhibitions of paintings by invited artists. The Gallery is open from 10am to 5pm,
Pittenweem, Fife. Open Tue-Thu 18:00-22:00 (closed Mon) Fri-Sat 17:00-22:00. Wednesday to Saturday, and from 2pm to 5pm on Sunday.
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Fisher Studio & Gallery - Contemporary Art Gallery. website: www.fishergallery.co.uk
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e-mail: enquiry@fishergallery.co.uk Tel: 01333 312255.
11-13 High Street, Pittenweem, KY10 2LA. Open 10:00-17:00. G. DONALD (BUTCHERS)
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Rake Around - Bric-a-Brac store. e-mail: mwar7777@aol.com Tel: 01333 313763. 16 High Street, Pittenweem, Fife KY10 2LA
r
39 High Street, Pittenweem, KY10 2PG. Open Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-16:00.
Tel: 01333 311212 e-mail: gdonaldbutchers@btconnect.com
A.J.Nicholson - Traditional Sweet Shop on Harbour front with 170 types of sweets in jars - 11
s
types of ice-cream. Tel: 01333 310812. 17 Mid Shore, Pittenweem. G. Donald (Butchers) are the real thing - a traditional family
butcher’s shop owned and run by local people who know their
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Open afternoons Feb-Oct and also evenings throughout the summer.
customers well and where each sale is accompanied by
G.H.Barnett & Son - Craft Baker, take-away hot snacks & sandwiches.
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e-mail: stewartbarnett@fsmail.net Tel: 01333 312052. 33 High Street, Pittenweem.
friendly chat and banter. All the beef, pork and lamb sold by
Sandy and Derek Guthrie is Scottish. Their beef is matured for
Open 08:00-17:00. Mon-Fri, 08:00-14:00 Sat. v at least 14 days to ensure the best flavour. They make their
Art Extraordinary Gallery - Art Brut Gallery showing The Scottish Collection. 27 High Street. own pies and sausage rolls and also sell potted meats, cooked ham, haggis, white and black
e-mail: artextraordinarytrust@yahoo.co.uk website: www.scottisharts.org.uk Sat & Sun May to Oct. puddings, and burgers, as well as vegetables from local farms.
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Picts, used to go for private prayer. It

ST ANDREW’S FARMHOUSE CHEESE
FIFE
was renovated and re-dedicated in
COMPANY
1935. There are also many art galleries
Falside Farm, Pittenweem KY10 2RT and antique shops, a testimony to the
Tel: 01333 312580 popularity of this area with artists and
website: www.standrewscheese.co.uk
retired people.
Opened in January 2008, St Andrew’s Farmhouse
Cheese Company was established by Jane and Robert
Kellie Castle (National Trust for
a
Stewart whose family have farmed at Falside for Scotland) dates from the 14th century,
more than 50 years. The dairy had always been and is one of the best examples in the
b
central to the business but as the price that farmers
Lowlands of the secular architecture of
received for their milk sank to unsustainable levels,
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the Stewarts started to look at ways of adding value the time. It contains superb plaster
to their product. d ceilings, murals, painted panelling, and
Right from the start, cheese seemed an obvious furniture designed by Sir Robert
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option. There was nobody else in Fife making cheese
from their own milk on the farm; there seemed to be
Lorimer, who refurbished the place in
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public demand for, and interest in, locally produced the late 19th century. There are fine
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food; and last, but not least, the Stewarts love Pittenweem Harbour gardens with old roses and herbaceous
cheese – “and you are much more likely to succeed if borders.
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you have a passion for what you do!” they say.
So, early in 2008, their first cheese was born, and and the cave in question is St Fillan’s Cave in Every August since 1986, the Royal Burgh
production has since continued three days each Cave Wynd, which is supposed to be where of Pittenweem in Fife has hosted a nine-day
week. The Stewarts found it both exciting andK St Fillan, an 8th-century missionary to the festival of visual arts. Houses, halls, galleries,
immensely satisfying to taste, at last, their own
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‘Anster’ cheese, named after the local term for the
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nearby fishing village of Anstruther. Anster’ cheese is THE WEST END BAR AND GANTRY
hand-made on the farm – to a traditional recipe – by
West End Bar, 32 South Loan, Pittenweem,
j
Jane Stewart, using unpasteurised milk from her
Anstruther KY10 2QB
husband Robert’s herd of home-bred Holstein Friesian
k
cows. The cheese is fresh and dry, with an almost Tel: 01333 311587
crumbly texture which dissolves in the mouth tol With truly local food, real ales and a huge selection of whisky
leave a full-flavoured finish. Although Anster cheese this is a well known venue yet retains its character of a
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is available through an increasing number of local village pub too. Visitors can expect not only the warmest of
delicatessens, farm shops and restaurants, you can welcomes from owners Jonny and Margaret Pattisson, but
go and see it being made at Falside n also truly outstanding food, at a standard not normally
Farm from a specially constructed o associated with country pubs. Margaret’s cooking has
Viewing Gallery.– a true ‘try before cemented The West End Bar and Gantry a firm favourite with
you buy’ experience! p local people and is deservedly attracting customers from far
As well as visiting the farm for and wide, her cullen skink is highly regarded. Not only does
‘the cheese experience’, you can also
q Margaret operate the restaurant, she also teaches cooking
take time to linger in the ‘Butterpat’ r classes that are great fun and have proved very popular too.
Coffee Shop with its splendid views The restaurant can seat 30 comfortably or can be used as
down over the Firth of Forth. The s a function room where it can seat up to 24 around one table
Stewarts give the same care and
t
attention to their home-baking and freshly prepared meals and snacks as they do to their cheese –
– it has a cocktail bar and a separate public bar, both of
which can be used for eating. Throughout the building you
so you can relax with a bowl of soup and an u ‘Anster’ cheese scone, whilst enjoying the fantastic can enjoy fine art work that is displayed by a successful local artist. There is also a beer garden at
views down towards Anstruther and the sea. the back of the premises where food can be enjoyed.
v Coffee Shop, along with a selection of other British
‘Anster’ cheese is available to buy from the Situated in a small working fishing village, it’s only fitting that the food on offer includes local
cheeses and a small selection of locally made gifts, crafts and speciality foods – and a large wall lobsters, crabs and fish from the local smokery. More interestingly, on the side of the pub,
space hung with a constantly changing selection of delightful work by local artists. embedded in the wall, is the prow of a fishing boat – a sight not to be missed.
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churches, the fishmarket and the harbour itself The chancel was never built. is Earlsferry, which is a royal burgh. It was length of the church. Built into a wall on the
FIFE
take on new roles. About 100 artists - resident, The ruins of 15th century Newark Castle once the northern terminal for ferries that main street is a curious carving known as The
visiting and especially invited - show and sell can also be seen near the shore. It originally plied between it and ports on the south bank Provost, said to have been the Rev Thomas
their work, and more than 200,000 visitors belonged to the Newark family, but perhaps its of the Forth. The earl in its name comes from Buchanan, the last holder of the title in 1578.
thread their way through Pittenweem‘s most famous owner was General General an incident concerning Macduff, who was the Pottery from the Wemyss Ware Studio
cobbled wynds. David Leslie, who fought for Cromwell in the Earl of Fife. In 1054, he escaped from King provides visitors with highly collectable
17th century. Macbeth, took refuge in a cave at Kincraig Scottish giftware. The range consists of
ST MONANS Point near the town, and was then ferried
10 miles S of St Andrews on the A917 a Salt panning was once an important beautifully hand-painted cats, pigs and other
industry in the town, and the 18th century St across the Forth to Dunbar. giftware, decorative tableware and tiles.
A Church of St Monans A Newark Castle b Gillespie House, in Elie, dates from the
Monans Windmill at one time formed part Two miles southwest of Ceres are the ruins
A St Monans Windmill c of a small industrial complex, which produced 17th century, and has a fine carved doorway. of 14th-century Struthers Castle. It has been
d
This little fishing port’s motto is Mare Vivimus, salt from seawater. Elie Parish Church dates from 1639, owned by the de Ochters, the Keiths, the
though the unusual tower was added in 1729. Lindsays and the Crawfords. At one time the
meaning “From the Sea we Have Life”. It e is EARLSFERRY AND ELIE At Ruby Bay are the scant remains of Lady’s lands belonging to the castle were called
famous for the Church of St Monans, built fby 10 miles S of St Andrews off the A917 Tower, built in the late 18th century as a Outhirothistrodyr, from which the word
David II, son of Robert the Bruce, in
thanksgiving after he survived a shipwreckg A Gillespie House A Elie Parish Church changing room for Lady Anstruther, who Struther comes.
on
h A Lady’s Tower bathed in the sea here.
the Forth. It stands almost on the shoreline, CUPAR
and is a substantial building consisting of a At one time an old track called the Cadgers
These two villages are small holiday resorts 8 miles W of St Andrews on the A91
nave, transepts and stumpy spire atop a tower. Road led from Earlsferry to Falkland, and it
K surrounding a sandy bay. The older of the two
was along this that supplies of fresh fish were A Mercat Cross E Douglas Bader Garden
L taken to feed the king when he stayed there. A Hill of Tarvit Mansionhouse A Scotstarvit Tower
FEATHER YOUR NEST
i CERES This small town, sitting on the River Eden,
10-12 Station Road, St Monans, Fife KY10 2BJ
Tel: 01333 730033 j 7 miles W of St Andrews on the B939 was once the county town of Fife. It is a
Fax: 01333 730055 pleasant place, and well worth strolling round
k A Parish Church B Fife Folk Museum
just to see and appreciate its many old
e-mail: feather.yournest@yahoo.com
website: www.featheryournestshop.co.uk l A Struthers Castle H Wemyss Ware Studio
buildings. The Mercat Cross, topped with a
m Your Nest
Located just off the harbour in St Monans, Feather Ceres gets its name from the family that once unicorn, was moved from Tarvit Hill to its
is a stylish gift and home wares shop run by the husband and owned the lands surrounding the village - the present location in 1897 to commemorate
wife team of Michael and Fiona Audsley. Thenshop opened in de Syras family. It is a small picturesque village Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. In Duffus
February 2008 and is already proving extremely o popular. With with a village green and the hump-backed, Park is the Douglas Bader Garden,
editorial features in Country Homes & Interiors (which named them
Shop of the Month in August 2008), Scotland p on Sunday and medieval Bishop’s Bridge. In the Fife Folk designed with the disabled in mind. The Old
Homes & Interiors Scotland, as well as celebrity shoppers like Museum you can find out about what Parish Church dates from 1785, though the
Lawrence Llewelyn Bowen, Michael and Fiona qare obviously doing
everyday life was like in Fife in the past. tower is medieval.
something right! r The village’s Bannockburn Monument is Hill of Tarvit Mansionhouse & Garden
Their products come from all over the world and include Jersey
s
Pottery, Ekelund of Sweden woven towels, McCalls candles from close by the Bishop’s Bridge, and was erected (National Trust for Scotland) is a fine
California and Authentic Models from Denmark. They also sell
t
paintings, prints, cards, postcards and jewellery by local artists.
in 1914, 600 years after the Battle of Edwardian mansion that lies two miles south
Bannockburn took place, to commemorate the of the town, and was designed by Sir Robert
Being located so close to the sea many ofuthe products have a
nautical twist. You’ll find fishing floats, model sail boats, tin signs archers of Ceres who fell in it. The Parish Lorimer in 1906. It has French, Scottish and
and nautical instruments along with Emma Ball v cards and paper featuring seagulls and puffins. So Church was built in 1806 on the site of a Chippendale furniture, a collection of
if you are looking for inspiration for a gift or for something to brighten your own décor, Feather much older church. Its most unusual features paintings, an Edwardian laundry, and fine
Your Nest definitely has the answer.
are the communion tables, which run the full gardens. Close by is Scotstarvit Tower
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or shop? guidebooks
FEMME FATALE NUMBER FIVE
FIFE
31 Bonnygate, Cupar, Fife KY15 4BU 56 Bonnygate, Cupar, Fife KY15 4LD
Tel: 01334 655228 Tel/Fax: 01334 657784
website: www.femmefataleclothing.co.uk e-mail: jsh_bruce@yahoo.co.uk
Femme Fatale, situated in the heart of Cupar, is a very busy clothes shop website: www.clairedonald.com
that aims to offer you ‘clothes you would die for’. Femme Fatale has a Your eyes are always drawn to the windows of Number Five,
wide spectrum of clothing for customers of all ages and sells wedding a shop in Cupar’s Bonnygate. It sells exquisite jewellery
a
outfits, French designer casual ware, suits, knitwear and evening wear, ball
gowns and cocktail dresses to that special party outfit.
based on the designs of a number of jewellers,
including internationally experienced designer,
bimpress? Evening wear is not as straightforward to
Dressing to really jeweller and goldsmith Claire Donald, who trained
buy as everyday clothing. Femme Fatale prides itself on offering a friendly, in Scotland, London and Paris.
c
honest and helpful service, where you can browse and try out the outfits at your leisure. Mandy Entering the shop is to step into a world
Seaton, the owner of Femme Fatale, has ad wealth of experience in evening and occasional wear where beauty, fashion and craftsmanship fuse to
and looks forward to turning your dreams into reality. create objects both beautiful in themselves and
e collections of special occasion wear you’re likely to
Inside, Femme Fatale has one of the largest which add elegance to any ensemble. Imagine
find, each outfit more dazzling and unusual than the one before. Femme Fatale are stockists of
f
Serena Kay, Bernshaw, Cameron Dee, Solyne Kosmika (an Italian range) and many others. Mandy
entering a gallery where you see all the desirable
pieces of jewellery in other galleries collected at
has now also started to stock a new Italiang range named Peruzzi, which consists of wedding wear one location. There is everything from simple
to lovely little casual t-shirts which are ideal for holidays. Their French designer wear is their most stainless steel and titanium designs to bold
trendy range, and to suit all ages they stock h beautiful tailored suits with complementing tops. They acrylic pieces, traditional settings and truly
also have a large selection of jewellery and handbags to accompany many of the outfits they inspiring pieces in the noble metals - gold, silver
stock. Every item is handpicked from fashion shows all over the world, with special emphasis on and platinum. They all represent remarkable value
K
the cut, colour and texture - which is all set to give women a rave look. for money, and make the ideal gift for someone
special, to mark a wedding, engagement or
L anniversary, or simply a unique token of love.
i The pieces showcased are not limited to
those produced by Claire Donald but also include
j the work of other top British designers from up
and down the country. Their creations show a
k wide and varied range of different styles and
l techniques in traditional and contemporary
materials.
m To quote one admirer the designs are
“deliciously seductive”. The craftsmanship as
n you would expect is of the highest order. So
o successful has Number Five been that, having at
first been renowned for its silverware, it now
p carries many fine pieces in 18 carat gold and
other metals. Claire Donald has created many
q beautiful engagement and wedding rings,
r including white and yellow gold rings set with sparkling precious stones.
Claire likes to offer real choice to her customers, and not sell ranges that are too limited. Her
s pieces aren’t just about shape or colour, but about the juxtaposition of textures and the contrast
t between various materials. For this reason, many pendants are sold separately from chains so that
customers can bring their own tastes to an object, and stamp it with their own personality.
u Number Five has a base of regular customers who return again and again. However, if you just
want to buy one piece you are more than welcome to come along and browse in the shop. It is
v gaining a reputation throughout Scotland as a place where craftsmanship is showcased, keeping
alive crafts that go deep into the heart of Scottish culture. It sells pieces that are at the top end of
the range - the perfect accessories for any fashion conscious woman (or man!)
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(Historic Scotland). It was built by the Inglis NEWBURGH

MUDDY BOOTS
FIFE
family around 1487 when they were granted 16 miles W of St Andrews on the A913
The Old Manse, Balmalcolm, the lands of Tarvit. In 1612, it was bought by
Cupar, Fife KY15 7TJ A Lindores Abbey B Laing Museum
Sir John Scott. He was an advocate who was
Tel: 01337 831 222 This small royal burgh stands on the banks of
deprived of his twin positions in the Scottish
e-mail: tantrum.boarding@hotmail.co.uk the Tay. Close to it are the red sandstone ruins
judiciary as judge and director of chancery by
Muddy Boots is owned and run by the Samson of Lindores Abbey, founded by David I in
family - Alec and Elise, their daughters Treina and Cromwell in the 17th century, and retired to
Scotstarvit, where he was visited by many 1178 for Tironenisan monks. It was the first
- and the family’s golden Labrador, Berry.
a
Moira, Treina’s son Fynn, in-laws Paddy and Price
abbey in Scotland to be sacked by Protestant
eminent men of the time.
b
Together they provide a great way to entertain
A few miles west of Cupar, at Rankeilor
sympathisers, 17 years before Scotland
your children or grandchildren of all ages. In the
c
Pottery area, they offer a fun range of animal Park, is the Scottish Deer Centre and Raptor
officially became a Protestant country. And the
very first mention of whisky production in
them to paint their own design on. Younger
d
ornaments, bowls, trinkets and money boxes for World. At the Deer Centre you can see - and
Scotland is contained in a document of 1494,
even feed - both species of deer native to
children can make a plate, mug or photo framee when James IV commissioned John Cor, a
with their tiny foot and hand prints - it’s a lovely Scotland, the roe and the red deer, plus other
way of capturing their baby days for ever. f species from around the world. At the Raptor
monk at the abbey, to make the equivalent of
400 bottles of ‘aquavitae’ for the king’s table.
g
For adults, there’s a good selection of useful
household items such as jugs, spoon rests, plates
Centre there are exhibitions about birds of
prey, such as owls, hawks and falcons, plus The Laing Museum in the High Street
and bowls, vases and soap dishes. Using some h has displays on Newburgh’s history from
very simple techniques and designs, you need not there are spectacular flying demonstrations.
have any artistic ability to create a work of art you There is also a small shopping court, an medieval burgh to industrial town.
can be proud of.
K
You can also design the perfect present for
indoor adventure play area and picnic areas.
L
any occasion - ‘Sorry!’, ‘Thankyou’, ‘Well done’,
‘Congratulations’ or ‘Happy Anniversary’ perhaps.
i
The people at Muddy Boots will glaze and fire your SUN GALLERY
pieces in their kiln ready to collect at a later date.
j 154 High Street, Newburgh, Fife KY14 6DZ
This is also a fantastic place for children’s
Tel: 01334 842323
k
parties. Every guest can paint their own piece as
e-mail: sales@sungallery.co.uk
well as enjoying a visit to the animals and other
l
attractions such as the tractor trucks, gyro cars, website: www.sungallery.co.uk
welcome for parties and there are generous
m
play area and the Jumping Pillow! Adults, too, are Conveniently located on the A913
Perth to St Andrews route, the Sun Gallery occupies an
discounts for groups of 8 or more. n imposing building which had stood empty for 5 years until
Muddy Boots also has its own café which Nick Moss took it over, carried out an imaginative
offers a small but tasty choice based on home-o restoration and opened to the public in May 2006. He has
farm shop. The menu offers home-made soup,

p
grown produce or that you are able to buy in the always been passionate about art and decided he wanted
to showcase the rich talents to be found in the local area
q
Farm Specials such as Oatcake Platter, paninis and and throughout Scotland. Accomplished artists such as
baguettes, and some wonderful desserts and Dylan Lisle, Rob Hain, Pat Kramek, John Johnstone and
r
cakes, including Elise’s famed home-made Carrot Ken Bushe are among those whose work is featured here.
Cake made to a secret recipe.
s
Before you leave, don’t miss out a visit to the
The spacious gallery offers an inspired collection of
painting, sculpture, ceramics, woodwork and jewellery
Farm Shop which sells top quality fresh local t from both established artists and exciting new talent. The
produce, much of it from the Samsons’ own farm.
u
The choice includes organic Aberdeen Angus beef
work on show is constantly changing to show the wealth
of creativity available in Scotland. Alongside the original
and other meats, a range of cheeses from around
the country, bread baked on the farm, jams,
v pieces are a few carefully selected limited edition prints.
There is also a fine selection of high quality greeting cards.
conserves and pickles, and those superb home-
The gallery also offers a bespoke picture framing service.
made cakes.
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or shop? guidebooks
AUCHTERMUCHTY LEUCHARS also known as St Ethernesc, and he was a NEWPORT-ON-TAY
FIFE
16 miles W of St Andrews on the A91 4 miles NW of St Andrews, on the A919 companion of St Columba who travelled and 9 miles NW of St Andrews on the A92
A Tolbooth G Jimmy Shand I Leuchars Air Show A Church of St Athernase preached throughout Fife. A Balmerino Abbey
Earlshall Castle (private) was started in 1546
Auchtermuchty is a typical inland Fife town. It E Tentsmuir Forest This little town sits at the southern end of
by Sir William Bruce and completed by his
is small and compact, and sits in a fertile area Every September, the Royal Air Force puts on the Tay Road Bridge, and at Wormit, about a
descendant of the same name in 1617. It
known as the Howe of Fife (Hollow of Fife). the Leuchars Air Show, held in one of mile to the west, is the start of the Tay Rail
subsequently fell into disrepair, but was rebuilt
It was here that the TV series Dr Finlay was Scotland’s biggest RAF bases. The village is Bridge. The ruins of Balmerino Abbey
filmed, its town centre being turned into aa
in 1891 under the direction of Sir Robert
also famous for its Church of St Athernase, (National Trust for Scotland) stands five
Lorimer. Tentsmuir Forest, to the north of
typical townscape of the 1930s. The Tolboothb said by some to be the second finest Norman Leuchars, is a 3700-acre pine forest planted on
miles to the west. It was founded in 1229 by
dates from 1728. c church in Britain. It was built in the late 12th sand dunes on the shores of the North Sea
Queen Ermengarde, widow of William the
Though born in East Wemyss, Jimmy century by Robert de Quinci, who lived in Lion, king of Scotland, and colonised by
d and the Firth of Tay. The whole area is rich in
Cistercian monks from Melrose. The ruins
Shand, the well-known Scottish dance band Leuchars Castle. The best parts are the finely wildlife.
e
leader, lived in Auchtermuchty for many years. carved chancel and apse, with the rather plain are not open to the public, but can be viewed
fat
There is a statue of him, complete with kilt, nave being Victorian. A bell tower was added from close by.
Upper Glens in the town. g to the apse in the 17th century. St Athernase is
h
SCARAMANGA
K
Gateside Mills, Gateside, Cupar, Fife KY14 7SU
Tel: 0845 2 591158 L
e-mail: info@scaramangadirect.co.uk i
website: www.scaramangashop.co.uk
j
Offering stylish fashion accessories and home interior
k
solutions Scaramanga occupies the former blacksmith’s
workshop in a old mill building, which still has a lot of the
l
old mill equipment suspended from the blacken ceiling.
The retro, post industrial look and feel works well with
m
the naturally distressed retro furniture and vintage home
accessories on display. n
Scaramanga was established in 2006 by Carl
o leather
Morenikeji who started selling men’s and women’s
p
bags and leather journals and notebooks. Since then
Scaramanga has developed a reputation for specialising in
vintage styled leather messenger bags, men’sqand
women’s leather bags and satchels, and leather travel and
weekend bags. They have also diversified intor home
s
interiors and other fashion accessories and now offer one
of Scotland’s widest ranges of antique wooden chests,
trunks and old boxes. t
You will also find a wide range of expertly crafted vintage and antique furniture, including:
u
chairs, cupboards old kitchen cabinets and distressed mirrors. As well as: vintage cushions, hand-
v and chains, some of which are made in
stitched bedspreads, old silver pendants, bracelets
Scaramanga’s on-site workshop. The shop also stocks a large range of gifts, including a range of
more than 30 different hand-bound leather and sparkly sari journals and photo albums.

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LOCATOR MAP Fife

Towns and Villages j

was once a place of pilgrimage

Around Dunfermline SALINE ARTIS 33 / SHORELINE STUDIO

4|There is a choice here. Either head left, climb

British Golf Museum, St Andrews

dating from the 16th century. It has displaysn

was no more than a small stone tower with a PITTENWEEM

Picts, used to go for private prayer. It

FEMME FATALE NUMBER FIVE

(Historic Scotland). It was built by the Inglis NEWBURGH

farm shop. The menu offers home-made soup,

AUCHTERMUCHTY LEUCHARS also known as St Ethernesc, and he was a NEWPORT-ON-TAY

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