DIGITAL MULTIMETER FOR BEGINNERS

Complete step by step Guide on how to use all the functions on your digital
multimeter

Bruno Smith
copyright@2020
Table of contents
CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION TO DIGITAL MULTIMETER
CHAPTER TWO
WHAT IS A MULTIMETER AND WHAT DOES IT MEASURE?
Types of Digital Multimeters
CHAPTER THREE
HOW TO MEASURE RESISTANCE USING DMM
CHAPTER FOUR
HOW TO MEASURE CURRENT USING DMM
CHAPTER FIVE
HOW TO MEASURE VOLTAGE USING DMM
CHAPTER SIX
CONTINUITY TESTING
CHAPTER SEVEN
HOW TO CHANGE DMM FUSE
CHAPTER EIGHT
WHAT MAKES A GOOD MULTIMETER?

CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION TO DIGITAL MULTIMETER
A multimeter can simply be defined as a measurement that is used for
troubleshooting different types of electronics projects. A multimeter comes
handy. In this guide, I will unveil to you everything you need to know about
multimeters as a beginner or an advanced electrician and how you ca n get
started with its dynamic use.
Do you desire to learn how to make use of a multimeter? I have put this book
together so you could learn the best way to utilize a digital multimeter
(DMM), a basic device that you can use to analyze circuits, find out about
others' electronic designs, and even test a battery. Thus the 'multi'- 'meter'
(multiple measurement) name.
The most fundamental things we measure are voltage and current. A
multimeter is likewise extraordinary for some fundamental once-overs to
make sure everything seems ok and investigating. Is your circuit not
working? Accomplishes the switch work? Put a meter on it! The multimeter
is your first guard while investigating a framework. In this book we be
considering how to measure current, voltage, resistance and continuity.
We will utilize the SparkFun VC830L all through the instructional exercise,
however these strategies ought to apply to most multimeters.
Different parts of a Multimeter

A multimeter is has three sections:

• Display
• Selection Knob
• Ports
The display typically has four digits and the capacity to show a negative sign.
A couple of multimeters have enlightened presentations for better review in
low light circumstances.
The selection knob could allow you to set your multimeter so you would be
able to read different variables like voltage (V), resistance (Ω) and milliamps
(mA).
Connect two probes to two of the ports on the face of the unit. COM
represents normal and is quite often associated with Ground or '- ' of a circuit.
The COM test is customarily dark yet there is no contrast between the red test
and dark test other than shading. 10A is the extraordinary port utilized when
estimating huge flows (more prominent than 200mA). mAVΩ is the port that
the red test is traditionally connected to. This port permits the estimation of
current (up to 200mA), voltage (V), and resistance (Ω). The tests have a
banana type connector on the end that connects to the multimeter. Any test
with a banana fitting will work with this meter. This takes into account
various sorts of tests to be utilized.
Making Use of a Multimeter to test the voltage on a LiPo Battery.
Probe Types
There are a wide range of probes of tests accessible for multimeters.
Below we have a list of our top choices;
• Banana to Alligator Clips : These are extraordinary links for interfacing
with huge wires or pins on a breadboard. Useful for performing longer term
tests where you don't must have to hold the tests set up while you control a
circuit.
• Banana to IC Hook : IC hooks function admirably on littler ICs and legs
of ICs.
• Banana to Tweezers : Tweezers are convenient on the off chance that
you are expecting to test SMD parts.

• Banana to Test Probes : If you actually break a test, they are modest to
supplant!

Banana to IC Hook Cables

Taxi 00506
Banana to Alligator Cable
Taxi 00509
Multimeter Probes - Needle Tipped
TOL-12078
Multimeter Probes - Tweezers
TOL-11060

CHAPTER TWO

WHAT IS A MULTIMETER AND WHAT DOES

IT MEASURE?
A multimeter can simply be defined as an equipment that is a combination of
an ammeter, voltmeter and ohmmeter and can also function as a separate or
standalone test equipment.
The functions of a multimeter isn’t limited to only these three measurements-
it is also used to measure frequency, capacitance as well as gain of
transistors.
The usage of these meters didn’t start today I t started way back around
1920s and still very in use today because of its high accuracy and have the
capacity to measure quantities as small as those that ranges in micro and nano
sizes. There are two types of electronic meters. They include; analog and
digital. My main focus in this guide is on digital multimeters. Digital
multimeters are often used due to the fact that it has the ability to display data
in decimals.
Types of Digital Multimeters
Two types of digital multimeters (DMM) exist. They are; auto-range and
manual range. Just as the name sounds, in manual range DMMs you will
have to select the range or variation of your measuring units or entities. This
DMM type is cheaper compared to their counterparts, auto range
multimeters, Auto-range DMMs don’t possess any form of protection circuits
and if they are used wrongly, they could blow up easily.
Manual Range
Auto Range

CHAPTER THREE
HOW TO MEASURE RESISTANCE USING DMM
Ordinary resistors have shading codes on them. In the event that you don't
have the foggiest idea what they mean, that is alright! There are a lot of
online adding machines that are anything but difficult to utilize. Be that as it
may, in the event that you actually end up without web access, a multimeter
is convenient at estimating resistance.
Set the multimeter of an arbitrary resistor to 20kω setting. Simply hold the
probes against the legs of the resistor with similar amount of pressure you
apply when squeezing a key on a console.
The meter will read one of three things, 0.00, 1, or the genuine resistor
esteem.
• In this case, the meter reads 0.97, which means this resistor has an
estimation of 970ω, or about 1kω (recollect you are in the 20kω or 20,000
Ohm mode so you are expected to move the decimal three places to the right
or read as 970 Ohms).
• If the multimeter displays 1 or shows OL, it's over-burden. You should
attempt a higher mode, for example, 200kω mode or 2MΩ (megaohm) mode.
There is no mischief if this occur, it basically implies the range handle should
be balanced.
• check the multimeter reading, if it reads 0.00 or almost zero, simply
bring down the mode to 2kω or 200ω.
Recall that numerous resistors have a 5% tolerance. This implies the shading
codes may show 10,000 Ohms (10kω), but since of errors in the assembling
cycle a 10kω resistor could be as low as 9.5kω or as high as 10.5kω. Try not
to stress, it'll stir fine and dandy as a draw up or general resistor.
How about we drop the meter down to the following least setting, 2KΩ. What
occurs?
Not so much has changed. Since this resistor (a 1KΩ) is under 2KΩ, it
despite everything appears on the presentation. Notwithstanding, you'll notice
that there is one more digit after the decimal point giving us a marginally
higher goal in our reading. What about the next lower setting?
Presently, since 1kω is more noteworthy than 200ω, we've maximized the
meter, and it is disclosing to you that it is over-burden and that you have to
attempt a higher worth setting.
As a dependable guideline, it's uncommon to see a resistor under 1 Ohm.
Recollect that estimating resistance isn't great.
What can greatly affect the reading is temperature. Likewise, estimating
resistance of a gadget while it is genuinely introduced in a circuit can be
dubious. The encompassing parts on a circuit board can extraordinarily
influence the reading.

CHAPTER FOUR
HOW TO MEASURE CURRENT USING DMM
Reading current is one of the trickiest and most quick readings when it comes
to embedded electronics. It's dubious in light of the fact that you measuring
current is done in series.
Here, voltage is measured by jabbing at VCC and GND( this is done in
parallel), you will have to directly interrupt current flow and set the meter in-
line.
To exhibit this, we'll utilize a similar circuit we utilized in the estimating
voltage segment.
The primary thing we'll require is an additional bit of wire. As referenced,
we'll have to genuinely intrude on the circuit to quantify the current. Said
another way, pull out the VCC wire heading off to the resistor, include a wire
where that wire was associated, and afterward test from the force nail to the
force flexibly to the resistor. This adequately "breaks" power to the circuit.
We at that point embed the multimeter in-line so it can gauge the current as it
"streams" through to the multimeter into the bread board.
For these photos, we cheated a bit by making use of alligator chips. When
estimating current, it's regularly acceptable to watch what your framework
does after some time, for a couple of moments or minutes. While you should
remain there and hold the tests to the framework, some of the time it's simpler
to let loose your hands. These alligator clip tests can prove to be useful. Note
that practically all multimeters have similar measured jacks (they're
designated "banana plugs") so in case you're when absolutely necessary, you
can utilize your companion's tests.
With the multimeter associated, we would now be able to set the dial to the
correct setting and measure some current. Estimating current works
equivalent to voltage and resistance - you need to get the right range. Simply
work from that point by setting the multimeter to 200mA.
The current utilization for some, breadboard ventures is normally under
200mA. Ensure the red probe is connected to the 200mA melded port. On our
most loved multimeter, the 200mA opening is a similar port/gap as voltage
and resistance reading (the port is named mAVΩ). This implies you can keep
the red probe in a similar port to measure current, voltage, or resistance. In
any case, in the event that you speculate that your circuit will utilize near or
more than 200mA, change your test to the 10A side, as a sanity check. Over-
burdening the current can bring about a blown breaker as opposed to only
displaying overload. You will get more this shortly.

This circuit was just pulling 1.8mA at the hour of estimation, not so much
current. The normal reading was nearer to 2.1mA.
Understand that the multimeter is going about as a bit of wire - you've
currently finished the circuit, and the circuit will power on. This is significant
on the grounds that over the long haul the LED, microcontroller, sensor, or
whatever gadget being measured may change its power consumption (for
example, turning on a LED can bringing about a 20mA increment for a
second, at that point decline for a second when goes off). On the multimeter
show you should see the momentary or instantaneous current reading. Every
multimeter is known to take readings after some time and later it gives you
the normal, simply hope the reading will change.
In summary, less expensive meters will average all the more harshly and
react all the more slowly, so carefully think about each reading while taking
all other factors into consideration.
In your mind, take a normal range, for example, 7 to 8mA under ordinary 5V
conditions (not 7.48mA).
Like different measurements, when estimating current, the shade of the tests
doesn't make a difference. What occurs on the off chance that we switch
tests? Nothing terrible occurs! It essentially motivations the current reading to
get negative:
Current is as yet moving through the framework, you've quite recently
changed your viewpoint and now the meter understands negative.
Keep in mind! At the point when you're finished utilizing the meter,
consistently return the meter to read voltage (return the tests to the voltage
port, set the meter to read the DC voltage go if essential). It's entirely
expected to snatch a meter and start to rapidly gauge the voltage between two
pins. On the occasion that you have left your meter in 'current' mode, the
display won’t see the voltage. Rather you'll see '0.000' demonstrating that
there is no current among VCC and GND. Inside that brief instant you will
have associated VCC to GND through your meter and the 200mA circuit will
blow = not great. So before you put the meter down for the evening, make
sure to leave your meter in a well disposed state.
Estimating current can be precarious the main couple of times. Try not to
stress in the event that you blow the breaker - we've done it many occasions!
We'll tell you the best way to supplant the circuit in a later segment.

CHAPTER FIVE
HOW TO MEASURE VOLTAGE USING DMM
To commence, let us take the measurement of the voltage of an AA battery:
simply plug the dark probe into COM and the red one into mAVΩ.
Set the multimeter to "2V" in the DC (direct current) go. Practically all
versatile hardware utilize direct current), not substituting current. Interface or
connect the dark test to the battery's ground or '- ' and then you connect the
red test to control or '+'.
Then apply some amount of pressure to the positive terminal and also do
same to the negative terminals of the AA battery. In the event that you have a
new battery, you should see around 1.5V on the presentation (this battery is
fresh out of the box new, so its voltage is somewhat higher than 1.5V).
If your aim is to measure DC voltage, (for instance, a battery or a sensor
hooked to an Arduino) you are expected to position the handle where the V
has a straight line.
Air conditioning voltage (like what emerges from the divider) can be
perilous, so we infrequently need to utilize the AC voltage setting (the V with
a wavy line close to it). In case you're meddling with AC, we suggest you get
a non-contact analyzer or tester as opposed to utilize a digital multimeter.
Utilize the V with a straight line when measuring DC Voltage

Utilize the V with a wavy line when taking measurement of AC Voltage

What occurs in the event that you switch the red and dark tests? The
multimeter gives a negative reading. Nothing awful occurs! The multimeter
measures voltage according to the basic test.
What is the actual voltage amount on the '+' of the battery when contrasted
with the normal or the negative pin? 1.5V.
If it happens that we exchange the probes, the '+' is characterized as the
normal or zero point. What is the actual voltage amount on the '- ' of the
battery when it is contrasted with our new zero? - 1.5V!

Presently we should build a simple or basic circuit to show how you can
measure voltage in an actual situation. The circuit is essentially a 1kω and a
Blue too splendid LED fueled with a SparkFun Breadboard Power Supply
Stick. To start, how about we ensure the circuit you are chipping away at is
controlled up accurately. On the off chance that your undertaking ought to be
at 5V yet is under 4.5V or more noteworthy than 5.5V, this would rapidly
give you a sign that something isn't right and you may need to check the
connections of your power or your circuit wiring.

Taking measurement of the voltage that leaves a Power Supply Stick. You
should set the knob to "20V" in the DC (this DC Voltage should extend has a
V with a straight line not far from it).
Many at times the most part is not autoranging.
You then need to set the multimeter to a certain range that it can measure.
Let’s take for instance 2V can measure voltages up to 2 volts and 20 volts can
estimate voltage of up to 20 volts. Therefore you can make use of 20v setting
when measuring a 12V battery. 5V framework? Utilize the 20V setting. In
the event that you set it mistakenly, you will presumably observe the meter
screen change and afterward read '1'.
With some power (envision sticking a fork into a bit of cooked meat), push
the tests onto two uncovered bits of metal. One test should contact a GND
connection.
One test connection to the VCC or 5V.

Different pieces of the circuit can also be tested. This training is called nodal
examination, and it is a fundamental structure block in circuit investigation.
In order to perceive how much voltage every part requires you should
estimate the voltage over the circuit.
We should gauge the entire circuit first.
Taking estimate at the point from where the voltage is going in to the resistor
and thereafter where ground is on the LED, Here will are expected to see the
full voltage of the circuit and it’s expected to be around 5V.

We will then be able to know the amount of voltage the LED is making use
of. This is known as voltage drop across the LED. Do not be afraid even if it
doesn’t bode well. It will as you investigate the universe of hardware more.
The significant thing to remove is that various pieces of a circuit can be
estimated to dissect the circuit in general.
This LED is making use of 2.66V of the accessible 5V graciously to light up.
This is lower than the forward voltage expressed in the datasheet by virtue of
the circuit just having modest quantity of current running through, more
details about this shortly.

Overload
What occurs in the event that you select a voltage setting that is excessively
low for the voltage you're attempting to take measurement for? Not all that
much. The meter will just show a 1. This is the meter attempting to disclose
to you that it is over-burden or out-of-run. Whatever you're attempting to read
is a lot for that specific setting. Take a stab at changing the multimeter knob
to the following most noteworthy setting.
Reading the 5V over this circuit is a lot for the 2V setting on the multimeter.

DMM Selection Knob

If it happens that the meter knob reads 20V rather than 10V. In case you're
hoping to take a reading of a voltage under 20V, you go to the 20V setting.
This is what will allow you to read from 2.00 to 19.99.
The main digit on several kinds of multimeters is just ready to show a '1' so
the extents are restricted to 19.99 rather than 99.99. Subsequently the 20V
max extend rather than 99V max run.
Caution! All in all, stick to DC circuits (the settings on the multimeter with
straight lines, not wavy or curvy lines). Most multimeters can quantify AC
(exchanging current) frameworks, yet AC circuits can be perilous. A divider
outlet with AC or 'main voltage' is the stuff that can destroy you quite great.
Carefully regard AC. On the off chance that you have to verify whether an
outlet is 'on' at that point utilize an AC tester. Actually the main occasions
we've expected to take AC measurement are the point at which we have an
outlet that is acting clever (is it truly at 110V?), or in case we're attempting to
control a warmer, (for example, a hot plate). Go moderate and twofold check
everything before you test an AC circuit.

CHAPTER SIX
CONTINUITY TESTING
Continuity testing is simply described as the process of testing the resistance
that exist between two points. On the off chance that there is low resistance
(not exactly a couple Ωs), the two focuses are associated electrically, and a
tone is radiated. In the event that there is in excess of a couple Ωs of
resistance, than the circuit is open, and no tone is produced. This test
safeguards that associations are made accurately between two focuses. This
test additionally encourages us recognize if two focuses are associated that
ought not to be.
Continuity is potentially the absolute most significant function for installed
equipment masters. This element permits us to test for conductivity of
materials and to follow where electrical associations have been made or not
made.
Set the multimeter to 'Continuity' mode. It might differ among DMMs, yet
search for a diode image with engendering waves around it (like sound
originating from a speaker).

Multimeter is set to continuity mode.

Presently contact the tests together. The multimeter ought to radiate a tone
(Note: Not all multimeters have a continuity setting, yet most should). This
shows a modest quantity of current is permitted to stream without resistance
(or possibly a tiny resistance) between tests.
Caution! All in all, turn OFF the framework before checking for continuity.
On a breadboard that isn't energized, utilize the tests to jab at two different
ground pins.
You ought to hear a tone showing that they are associated.
Nudge the tests from the VCC pin to a microcontroller to VCC on your
power source. It ought to discharge a tone demonstrating that force is allowed
to move from the VCC pin to the miniature or micro. If it happens that it
doesn't release a tone, at that point you can start to follow the course that the
copper followed and tell if there are breaks in the line, wire, breadboard, or
PCB.
Congruity is an extraordinary method to test if two SMD pins are contacting.
Is possible your eyes can't see it, the multimeter is generally an incredible
second testing asset.
At the point when a framework isn't working, continuity is one more thing to
help investigate the framework. Here are the means to take:
1. If the framework is on, you have to check the VCC and GND
deliberately with the voltage setting and make sure the voltage is on the
correct level.
If it happens that the 5V framework is running at 4.2V, carefully and
deliberately check your controller, it could be hot demonstrating the
framework is pulling a large amount of current.
2. Power the framework down and check continuity among VCC and
GND. If it happens that there is continuity (on the off chance that you hear a
signal), what you have to do at this point is to know there is a short at some
place.
3. Power the framework down. with continuity, you will have to watch
that VCC and GND are wired correctly to the pins on the microcontroller and
separate devices. The framework might be driving up, however the individual
ICs might be wired wrong.
4. Assuming you can get the microcontroller running, saved the
multimeter, and proceed onward to sequential troubleshooting or utilize a
rationale analyzer to examine the computerized signals.
Continuity and huge capacitors: During ordinary investigating. You will be
examining for progression among ground and the VCC rail. This is a decent
once-over to verify everything seems ok before fueling up a model to ensure
there is anything but a short on the force framework. However, don't be
astonished on the off chance that you hear a short 'blare!' while testing. This
is on the grounds that there is frequently huge measures of capacitance on the
force framework. The multimeter is searching for low protection from check
whether two focuses are associated. Capacitors will act like a short for a brief
moment until they top off with vitality, and afterward act like an open
association. Along these lines, you will hear a short signal and afterward
nothing. That is alright, it's simply the tops energizing.

CHAPTER SEVEN
HOW TO CHANGE DMM FUSE
A very common error with using new multimeters is taking current
measurement on a bread board by probing from VCC to GND (terrible!).
This will quickly short power to ground through the multimeter causing the
bread load up power gracefully to brown out. As the current races through the
multimeter, the inward wire will warm up and afterward wear out as 200mA
courses through it. It will occur in a brief instant and with no genuine
discernible or physical sign that something isn't right.
Stunning, that was flawless. Presently what? Well first, recollect that
measuring current is done in series (intrude on the VCC line to the
breadboard or microcontroller to measure current). In the event that you
attempt to gauge the current with a blown wire, you'll presumably see that the
meter reads '0.00' and that the framework doesn't turn on like it should when
you append the multimeter. This is on the grounds that the inward wire is
broken and goes about as a torn wire or open. Try not to stress, this happens
constantly, and it costs about $1 to fix.
To change the circuit, locate your helpful dandy small screw driver, and
begin taking out screws. The SparkFun DMM is really simple to pull
separated. Start by eliminating the battery plate and the battery.

Next, eliminate the two screws holing up behind the battery plate.
Lift the multimeter face a little
Presently notice the hooks on the base edge of the face. You should slide the
face sideways with a little power to separate these hooks.
When the face is unfastened, it should come out without any problem.
Presently you can see inside the multimeter!
Tenderly lift up on the circuit, and it will jump out.
Make a point to supplant the right circuit with the right sort. As such,
supplant the 200mA wire with a 200mA fuse.
Caution! Try not to put a 10A breaker where a 200mA wire ought to go. The
situation of the wires may not coordinate the arrangement of the test ports.
Read the metal top on either end of the circuit to twofold check which will be
which.
The parts and PCB follows inside the multimeter are intended to take various
measures of current. You will harm and perhaps ruin your multimeter in the
event that you coincidentally push 5A through the 200mA port.
There are times where you have to gauge high current gadgets like heating
element or a motor. Do you see the two spots to put the red test on the face of
the multimeter? mAVΩ on the right and 10A on the left? In the event that
you attempt to gauge more than 200mA on the mAVΩ port you risk blowing
the circuit. In any case, on the off chance that you utilize the 10A port to
quantify current, you run a much lower danger of blowing the wire. The
compromise is affectability. As we discussed above, by utilizing the 10A port
and handle setting, you may have the option to read down to 0.01A or 10mA.
The vast majority of my frameworks utilize more than 10mA so the 10A
setting and port functions admirably enough. Just in case that you are making
an attempt to measure extremely low power (micro or nano amps) the 200mA
port with the 2mA, 200uA, or 20uA could be the exact thing you will need.

Take note: If your framework can possibly utilize more than 100mA you
should begin with the red test connected to the 10A port and 10A handle
setting.
With sub $50 computerized multimeters, the estimations you are probably
going to take are simply investigating readings, not logical trial results. On
the off chance that you truly need to perceive how the IC utilizes current or
voltage after some time, utilize an Agilent or other excellent seat unit. These
units have higher accuracy and offer a wide scope of extravagant capacities
(some incorporate Tetris!). Bunnie Huang, hardware designer behind
Chumby, utilizes high-accuracy current readings to investigate sheets during
the last testing methods of a Chumby. By taking a gander at the current
utilization of various sheets that have fizzled (for instance a given bombed
board utilizes 210mA over the typical), he could distinguish what wasn't right
with the board (when the RAM comes up short, it by and large uses 210mA
over ordinary). By pinpointing what might be possibly off-base, the improve
and fix of sheets is made a lot simpler.

CHAPTER EIGHT
WHAT MAKES A GOOD MULTIMETER?
Everybody has their inclination, yet by and large multimeters that have
continuity are liked. Each and every other component is simply what tops off
an already good thing.
There are extravagant multimeters that are autoranging, which means they
naturally change their inward range to endeavor to locate the right voltage,
resistance, or current of the thing you're jabbing at. Auto-running can be
useful on the off chance that you realize how to utilize it. As a rule,
autoranging multimeters are higher caliber and by and large have more
highlights. So in the event that somebody gives you a multimeter with auto-
go, put it to utilize! Simply realize how to get it into manual mode. A circuit's
voltage or current can vacillate rapidly. With a portion of the frameworks, the
current or voltage is irregular to such an extent that the auto-extend can't keep
up reasonably.
A back-lit LCD is extravagant, however when was the last time you
estimated your circuit in obscurity? We for the most part avoid terrifying
woods and circumstances that expect us to test stuff in the night, however a
few people may need or need a dull agreeable multimeter.
A decent click on the range selector is really a significant in addition to in our
book. A delicate handle is generally characteristic of a poor meter.
Good probes are a plus. After some time the leads will in general separate at
the flex point. We've seen wires come totally out of tests - and it's
consistently right now you need the tests to work! In the event that you do
break a test, they are sensibly modest to supplant.
Auto-off is an incredible element that is infrequently observed on less
expensive multimeters. This is a component that can profit novices and
progressed clients the same, as it's anything but difficult to neglect to kill the
meter at 2AM. The SparkFun digital multimeter doesn't have this component,
yet fortunately the meter is low-power. We've left the multimeter for two
days in a row before the 9V battery started to get low. All things considered,
remember to kill your meter!
You're presently prepared to utilize your computerized multimeter to begin
estimating your general surroundings. Don't hesitate to begin utilizing it to
address numerous inquiries. I accept my LED is getting 20mA, is it truly?
What amount of voltage does a lemon have? Is a glass of water conductive?
Would i be able to utilize aluminum foil to supplant these wires? A
computerized multimeter will answer these and a lot more inquiries
concerning hardware.
Purchasing a Multimeter
A computerized multimeter is a basic instrument in each electronic
enthusiast’s arsenal. Here are a couple of multimeters and units with
multimeters to suit the requirements of novices and experienced specialists
the same.