Background

While driving to lunch one day I found that my blinkers suddenly stopped blinking and went
solid. I confirmed this by getting out of the car and looking at the blinkers when engaged. They
were solid for both left and right. I found a circuit diagram and found the flasher relay is
integral to the hazard switch. Like so many of you do, I searched the forums and youtube for a
fix. I confirmed the relay is in the hazard switch. After a few days of using the blinker switch
manually to make the them blink, I suddenly found the blinkers quit coming on all together.
CRAP! I thought maybe I broke the multifunction switch, but after “tapping” the dash a few
times, the lights came back on solid. The blinker relay has died altogether. I found a “how to”
on removing the hazard switch (too easy) and a video on how to disassemble the switch. The
video was older version, and the relays were not encased. Mine are encased. I looked up how
much a hazard switch would cost and found them to be from $25 (ebay) to $46 from various
online stores. Being a “Do-it-Yourselfer” I decided to see if I could fix my hazard switch for
cheaper, rather than buy a new one.

After it was all said and done I had spent $10.30 plus shipping, and the blinkers worked as
designed.
DISCLAIMER
PERFORM THIS FIX AT YOUR OWN RISK.
I AM NOT RESPOSIBLE IF YOU RUIN YOUR SWITCH (or car) PERMANENTLY.
This was a fairly simple fix for me, but I do have some circuit board repair experience. I am not
an expert at soldering, but I am not a beginner by any means. I also have an above average
(self-proclaimed) understanding of wiring diagrams and circuits.
First you need to remove the
red lens.

One side is larger than the

other, you can use a small
screwdriver or a pick to pop
the tabs on each side.
After red lens is removed, use
a screwdriver to pop the tab
shown, and repeat on the
opposite side. Be careful not
to break the tabs, they are
very thin.
 Pull (2), (3), and (4) out of (1)

*Optional*
Pull (4) off of (2) (don’t lose the springs)

1
4
2 3
Remove the lock bar
that holds the connector
casing on the pins.

Use a small screwdriver

or pick to push through.
You may be able to pull
through at this point.
The bar was in too tight
for me to remove in the
last step, so I inserted
the screwdriver in the
center and pushed it
through.
 Pull (3) off of (2)

*Optional*
Pull (4) off of (2) (don’t lose the springs)

1
4
2 3
 Omron G8N-1
The circled relay is the turn signal
flasher relay. It was encased like
the one next to it, but I removed all
the casing to check for corrosion.
There was none so the relay just
went bad. The casing was marked
Omron G8N-1, after a little
“Googling” I found that
www.mouser.com sells a G8N-1. I
ordered the relay with the hope
that it would be the correct one. It
cost $10.30 before shipping.

Until it arrives I decided to remove

the relay and use a solid piece of
wire to allow me to manually make
the blinkers flash.

The other, bigger relay is the hazard

flasher relay.
 Omron G8N-1

Another view of
the bad relay.
 Pin out
1. Not used
2. ACC Hot (+) (BLK/GRN)
3. Output to turn signal
switch (BLK/WHT/GRN)
4. Interior light system
(GRY/BLU)
5. Hazard Output (left)
(BLK/WHT)
6. Anti-theft system
(BLK/GRN)
3 1 7. Hazard Output (right)
9 7 5 (BLK/GRN)
8. SRS (VIO/BLU)
8 6 4 2 9. Ground (-) (BRN)
10
10. Always Hot (+)
(RED/YEL)
2001 Audi A6 2.8L Quattro
Exterior Lights w/o DRL
 These 5 soldered
points are the turn
signal relay
contacts. If you
want to remove
2 1 the relay you will
4 3 have to heat these
point up and de-
6 5 solder them.
8 7
The yellow
10 9 numbers reflect
where the
connector pins are
soldered to the
board
 Point A is the
power input from
the ACC +, point B
A is the power
output when the
2 1 relay is energized.
4 3 B These are the 2
6 5 points that I
soldered a piece of
8 7 solid wire between
to allow power to
10 9 be at the turn
signal switch all the
time.

***NOTE*** I did this because my relay was completely dead. If your relay is latching but not blinking this is not
necessary for you. I do not recommend keeping this setup for an extended period of time. I don’t know the integrity of
the piece of wire I used. Also using your blinker switch manually for a long period of time may cause premature failure of
the multifunction switch .
I soldered a piece solid wire between the 2 points to allow this circuit
to be powered all the time. This allows me to use the turn signal
switch to manually make the turn signals blink. This was a temporary
fix until I receive my new relay.
***NOTE*** I did this because my relay was completely dead. If your relay is latching, but not blinking, this is not
necessary for you. I do not recommend keeping this setup for an extended period of time. I don’t know the integrity of
the piece of wire I used. Also using your blinker switch manually for a long period of time may cause premature failure of
the multifunction switch .
 I ordered this relay from http://www.mouser.com/.
If the link doesn’t work copy and paste the website from the notes section.
I removed the solid piece of wire and prepared for the new relay.
Solder the
new relay.
Make sure
all 5 points
have good
contact.
Re-assemble and go try it out!