Fabric Science- II

Derivatives of Warp Knitting

An Effort By:-
Vikash Kumar
DFT-IV
NIFT Chennai
 Introduction

• Forms by interlacing loops of

yarn, but vertically down the
fabric in contrast to weft
knitting

• Yarn zigzags along the length of

the fabric

• Follows adjacent columns

"wales" of knitting, rather than
a single row "course“
 Derivatives of Warp Knitting

• Double Tricot • Tulle Fabric

Structure • Warp Knitted
• Locknit Structure Knotless Nets
• Satin Structures • Queen S Cord
• Reverse Locknit • Net Structures
Structures • Laying-in Structures
• Shark Knit Structures • Raschel Knit
 Double Tricot Structure

• Lapping movement
– Front & back guide bars 1
and 1 lap in opposite
directions
• Threading arrangement
– Front & back guide bars
fully threaded
• Fabric characteristics
– Light weight fabric; splits
very easily if a yarn breaks
or a stitch drops
 Locknit Structure

• Lapping movement
– Front guide bars 2 and 1
lap
– Back guide bar 1 and 1 lap
in opposite directions

• Threading arrangement
– Front & back guide bars
fully threaded
 Conti…

• Fabric characteristics
– Good elasticity
– Due to free-floating underlaps the fabric has a smooth
back, which is very pleasant to touch.
– Light weight
– Non-splitting
– Edge curling towards the technical back
– The structure contracts in the lateral direction after leaving
the needles by about 67% (the structure was traditionally
knitted on E28 machines but today knitting on E32 - E40 is
becoming popular)
– Generally used to produce ladies lingerie
 Satin Structures

• Lapping movement
– Front guide bars 3(4)
and 1 lap
– Back guide bar 1 and 1
lap in opposite
directions
• Threading arrangement
– Front & back guide bars
fully threaded
 Conti…

• Fabric characteristics
– The fabric shrinks after leaving the needles. This is
due to the long underlaps
– Good elastic properties
– Very comfortable to wear
– Edge curling towards the technical back
– As the length of the underlaps increases, the
structure exhibits a smooth and shiny technical
back, but at the same time the structure becomes
heavier
 Reverse Locknit Structures

• Lapping movement
– Front guide bars & bsp 1 and 1 lap
– Back guide bar 2 and 1 lap in opposite directions

• Threading arrangement
– Front & back guide bars fully threaded

• Fabric characteristics
– Not so stable as locknit
 Shark Knit Structures

• Lapping movement
– Front guide bars 1 and 1 lap
– Back guide bar 3(4) and 1 lap in opposite
directions

• Threading arrangement
– Front & back guide bars fully threaded
 Conti…

• Fabric characteristics
– The trapped longer underlaps restrict the fabric
shrinkage
– Rigid and very stable structure (more stable than
other structures)
– Rough technical back; the reason for the name
 Queen S Cord

• Lapping movement
– Front guide bars pillar lap
– Back guide bar 3(4) and 1 lap in opposite
directions

• Threading arrangement
– Front & back guide bars fully threaded
 Conti…

• Fabric characteristics
– High degree of stability
– Minimum lateral shrinkage after leaving the
needles; i.e. final width of the fabric is closer to
that of the knitted width
 Net Structures

• Net structures can be classified into the

following groups:
– 1. Net structures in which the distance between
the wales is determined by the gap between the
needles used to knit the structure. Generally the
yarns of a second set of yarns are used to bridge
the gap between the wales. The shape of the
opening is determined by the lapping movement
and by the tension in the yarns. If the yarn tension
is high it would cause the wales to distort, but
generally the pillars are vertical or almost vertical.

– 2. Net structures that are formed by

interconnecting pillars. The side connections are
achieved by inclining and distorting neighbouring
wales. The typical openings of these nets are
diamond shaped. It is also possible to produce
nets with other openings.
 Laying-in Structures

• A guide bar is used to insert yarn ends into the

fabric structure. The laid-in yarn end is not
knitted into the structure, but it is held in the
structure between the stitches (in the
technical front) and the underlaps (formed by
other yarns in the technical back).
 Conti…

• Basic principal of laying-in

– Laying-in is achieved using a back guide bar. Generally,
at least one fully threaded guide bar in front of the
laying-in guide bar(s) produces the ground structure.

– A laying-in guide bar can be fully or partially

threaded. Fully threaded laying-in guide bars increase
the fabric stability. Partially threaded laying-in guide
bars are utilised for patterning purposes.

– The laying-in guide bars carry out only the underlaps.

 Conti…
• Advantages of laying-in
– Laying-in technique allows one to knit yarns that are otherwise
difficult to knit

– Any yarn which is capable of passing freely through the guide eye and
between the needles can be inserted into the fabric

– Laid-in yarns contribute very little towards the fabric weight because
of the lack of loops

– Saves on patterning yarn, which is usually more expensive, i.e. a

commercial advantage

– Designers can use this technique to enlarge the range of designs by

laying-in yarns with coarser counts (up to thousands of dtex) and yarns
of different texture. Laying-in technique is used in creating lace and
curtain fabrics.
 Tulle Fabric

• Tulle is a lightweight, very fine netting, which

is often starched

• It can be made of various fibres,

including silk, nylon, and rayon

• Tulle is most commonly used

for veils, gowns (particularly wedding gowns),
and ballet tutus

• Tulle comes in a wide array of colors and it can

also easily be dyed to suit the needs of the
consumer. It is readily available from most
fabric stores and through special order.