Pastry

&
Anthropology
Ramon Morató
Fanny Parise
Pastry & Anthropology
This year we’ve all experienced the drastic changes caused by
the pandemic that have impacted on our way of life, our work,
and our behaviour.
To understand these changes, the trends that might as a
consequence become more pronounced, and to be better
prepared to be able to support our chefs and their business
planning, Ramon Morató and his team have been working
closely with Fanny Parise, an anthropologist who is an expert in
this field. We’re now going to present to you the results of this
interesting project.
Anthropology is the science that strives to highlight the diversity
of cultures through the prism of human unity.
Although the post COVID-19 world will not be so different from
the one preceding it, the virus has already shown us the first
signs pointing towards new social trends.
Although still very low key, these trends are nonetheless having
an influence on our lives, turning the experience of shopping and
consumption on its head.
The co-creative and repetitive process proposed by Ramon
Morato and Fanny Parise makes it possible to offer an
aspirational universe and recipes that serve as an example for
exploring the new social problems that we’re all going to
have to face.

It’s a discipline that decodes the present so as to see our reality

in a different way (the principle of decentring) and to provide us
with better projections for the future.
The current crisis is viewed as a rite of passage by
anthropologists, a transition towards new ways of living.
Understanding the impact of this phenomenon on our western
societies becomes a cultural necessity.
Understanding makes it possible to get one jump ahead. Getting
one jump ahead is a guarantee of survival (in human and social
terms, and also in business).

Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 3
Tomorrow: what will tomorrow’s pastry be like, and
what sort of societies will they serve?
Each dessert offered by a pastry (all the way from the one in
a small village to the one in a big city location) has a symbolic
weight, and its own history. In the same way as with language,
culinary and confectionery habits can be linked to a vision of the
world. They are a part of the way that people see themselves
and their lives through a fundamental link between the
individual and the collective. The pastry even becomes a mirror,
reflecting a society, and how lifestyles evolve within it.
Eating isn’t quite as simple
as it seems...
Eating is a symbolic act. The ‘principle of incorporation’ is
the belief that by incorporating what is eaten, certain of the
qualities attributed to what has been consumed are assimilated.
Physiological need, social need, and symbolic need are all
intertwined. As result, no culture exists that does not set rules
and establish a normative framework centred around food.As C.
Lévi Strauss explained, food needs to be “not only good to eat,
but also good to think”. This social dimension of the consumer
has an impact on the productive and commercial system of
every society. For C. Fischler, “if we do not eat everything that is
biologically edible it is because not everything that is biologically
edible is culturally edible”: when we incorporate a food, we are
by analogy incorporating the real or imaginary, positive or
negative qualities that we attribute to it.
Today, the agrifood system produces more and more processed
foods, out of tune with the “naturalness” that it aims to
guarantee and that is sought by the individual.
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
To reduce the gap between the desired ideal of a "healthy" So what sort of society do
we want to create for our
diet and the reality of their day to day lives, the individual uses
psychosocial strategies to lighten their mental load and, by
extension, make their everyday life and food more enjoyable. tomorrow?
In keeping with this logic, food has a moral interest: food
choices and consumer behaviour are sanctioned by
The pastry, a mirror reflecting our society.
judgements linked to social, cultural, and religious norms.
The exceptional times that we are all living in has fuelled some
The moral status of certain foods sometimes undergoes massive
of the weak signals that have for several years been helping us to
changes, as is the case with sugar, which is in turn demonised
redesign the whole experience of buying and consuming pastries.
and lauded for its essential characteristic: its link with pleasure.
Across the board, certain food contradictions are becoming major
issues for this sector, linked to the new expectations of customers
and consumers. Let’s take a look at the most significant: the
aspiration to localism in the face of increasingly globalised food
To consume is to choose production, the appreciation of seasonal ingredients despite the
a product, a good,
attraction of exotic ingredients, the practicality/ quality duality,
the balance between tradition and new food ethics, the alliance
a mode of production, between pleasure and health, the experiential search that
an economic model. extends to daily consumption, the diversity of supply through
the prism of the boom in mono-products, the democratisation of
home delivery in the face of an increase in the number of meals
consumed outside the home, etc.
This moralisation of eating and consumption may even reveal a
desire to moralise the economic system itself. Let's take a simple
example, like buying some chocolate.
In a shop, there are four different bars of chocolate: a bar
containing genetically modified fruit, an organic bar produced by
fair trade agriculture, a bar produced in a country governed by a
dictatorship, and a vegan and/or even a raw cocoa bar. Looking
at all these options raises a question: is there such as thing as
a neutral bar of chocolate? Each of these products represents a
mode of production, an economic model and therefore also a
particular model of society.
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 5

Pragmatically, three key
concepts allow us to
better understand the new
complexity that the pastry will
have to face in order to adapt
to these social changes:
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
1. The domestic hub
The crisis has established the home as the last social refuge, and
has precipitated the democratisation of the new ways of doing
things that make for a different type of society: teleworking,
home deliveries, a renewed interest in things that can be done at
home (DIY, sewing, etc.).
The home becomes the focal point for social interaction,
reconnecting with how things work in agricultural societies.
2. The new brand nostalgia
Lockdown has given rise to new social aspirations, but can
we really disconnect ourselves from the consumer society?
The current crisis seems to be the breeding ground for a new
relationship with consumption: one that is more ethical, more
solidarity-based, more respectful, and more ecological. Will
there really be change in the way we do things? Will our brand
relationships change?
3. The phygitalisation* and virtualisation of
the customer experience
The rollout of numerous online solutions does not necessarily
make for a smoother customer experience; in fact it can
even make for a more complex one. Containment marks the
beginning of a *phygitalisation of lifestyles, brands are now
moving into virtual universes, a symbol of the potential of a new
Golden Age of consumption.
Somewhere between the ideas of pleasure, commensality* and
the French art of living, the pastry needs to evolve at the same
pace as the surrounding society if it is to continue to be a part of
people's daily menu.
The pastry of tomorrow
Faced with these upheavals that represent so many What sort of look do we want to give the pastry of
opportunities for innovation, we’ve been working hard on
building a consistency between these elements to (potentially)
tomorrow?
What role should (or shouldn’t) the pastry play in the emer-
offer desirable universes for the future of the pastry.
gence of a new food ethics, and the increasing moralisation of
To do so we’ve turned to ethnofiction*, that is bringing into food and eating?
play a set of conjectures (technological, economic, political,
In our opinion, the pastry of tomorrow can only be imagined
ecological, and anthropological), together with speculation
through its capacity to remain at the heart of our social lives
based on the cumulative knowledge of the human and
(in terms of both the in-store experience and the eating of the
social sciences.
product at home), reconnecting us through its anthropological
The ethnofiction*is presented as a narrative, and is shaped function of sharing and communion. Confectionery must not
by the development of concepts in the form of recipes. only be political or good for health, it must continue to be a sour-
This creative act becomes a bridge between reality and ce of pleasure and happiness, both individual and collective.
potential futures.
Here, the imaginary is exploited as a space that is conducive to
the globalisation of inventions (technological and social, and in
processes, services, and marketing) and/ or to their circulation
so that they become social innovations. In a sense it’s a way of
showcasing the product in advance.
The future is unpredictable, but imagining it allows us to
look at our own reality in a different way, and to give a new
meaning to our actions, which will shape tomorrow.
These proposals concerning the universe that we have carefully
considered are articulated through the themes of sharing and
*commensality, of responsibility and sustainability, of health
and happiness to lead us to collectively reflect on tomorrow's
food ethics.
*Commensality: the practice of eating together with one or more other people.
*Phygitalistion: the merging of the physical with the digital in the shopping experience.
Sociofuge*: space that promotes social isolation, and in which the individual feels secure.
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 7

Welcome to the future, a future
that is almost with us, and
that we must write together,
starting from now!
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
The great
pillars of each
universe
1 2
1. Slow
Pastry
Pastries that are good to
eat, but that are also and
above all good at promoting
an ultra-localism made
possible by digital technology.
Transparency becomes the
watchword, thanks to the
alliance between tradition
and modernity. In search
of consistency, the aim is to
offer a pastry that will once
again become a symbol of the
identity of a particular place.
Tomorrow’s
domestic hub
A pastry that becomes the
forerunner of a dialogue
between chef and customer.
That reflects the values of
both the establishment and
the customer by personalising
each dessert, and creating a
perfect customer experience.
And one that adapts to
every occasion, and to all the
different moments in our lives.
3 4
The Universal The nutritious
pastry Pastry
A search for *commensality in A pastry that reconciles the
the face of the increase in the extremes: pleasure and health,
number of specific diets and the destructuring of meals,
the growing individualisation and the conservation of the
of meals. By valuing difference tradition of the dessert. By
as a positive identity marker,
the aim is to make ultra-
becoming the focal point at
the heart of the meal and
personalisation compatible developing nutritional value,
with festive moments that are the pastry reflects a new
shared with others (through image of those who don't
different product formats: large like to compromise in their
size/ individual portions/ mix of daily lives.
different product ranges).
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 9
 A pioneering bakery
of a dialogue between
2 the chef and the client

Customization A bakery that becomes the precursor of a dialogue between the chef and the client.
It reflects the values of both the establishment and the customer through personalization
of each dessert, a perfect experience for the customer. The bakery adapts to all
occasions and to the different moments of life.

Fanny Parise

Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 11
The new generation of consumers are used to being able to All of this means:
customise the products they buy more and more and shop in a
much more instantaneous and digital way.
From the colours and shapes of phone cases, the strap of a Smart
watch or a pair of running shoes down to the very last detail of the 1 Maximum customisation

latest model of car.

In a best-selling cake shop, it may be the possibility of customising

your own dessert, one that you are buying for a celebration or
2

Dialogue with the chef to create a unique product, a
unique experience

perhaps to give a friend an experience through an interface.

3
The aim is to be able to establish dialogue between the pastry chef Do you have an idea? A dream? Together with the chef,
and the customer. you can make it a reality..

4
In addition, we imagine that in the future, travel outside of
the home in large cities will be kept to a minimum. Customers The product reflects and conveys the customer's values.
appreciate home deliveries more and more and very likely weekly/
monthly subscription packages too to have instant access to pastry

5
through technology.
The product has the customer's and the chef's signature.

Most large cake shops probably offer various home delivery services:
customised desserts for events, delivery every Sunday of a "surprise"

6
cake that takes into account the food intolerances and tastes of the
Bring luxury to the everyday so that customers
whole family, made with seasonal products, etc.
appropriate and make the pastry their own.

7
Summary
An increase in delivery services to the customer's home

It is about establishing dialogue that allows the consumer to make with a quick, instant and efficient service.

the product their own. The advantage of pastry is that this dialogue

8
can be mixed, can provide virtual solutions to facilitate part of the
New ways of encouraging customer loyalty through
experience but can also create real dialogue with the chef.
technology, creation of subscriptions, clubs, etc. inasmuch
The objective is to create a unique experience and provide people
as going to the cake shop is increasingly complicated in
who do not see pastry as something specific to them with an
their shopping routines.
alternative.

In this dialogue, the customer may have previously imagined a

classic creation from their past, or even the flavours or ingredients
of the dessert. The chef can provide advice and guidance to adapt
the recipes technically, depending on the seasons, food intolerances,
etc. The result is the creation of a product and a unique experience.

Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 13
02.
ENTREMETS
Customisation

Customer / chef dialogue

Online shopping

Unique, own experience

285 Kcal per 100g

In this second example, we have used the little Slow pastry cake as The dessert consists of:
our reference, and we have started with the concept of somebody
who uses an interface to get in touch with a cake shop wanting to Hazelnut and Extra Virgin olive oil
give a friend a special dessert. financier
Hazelnut and cereal crisp
They are based in the area to the north of Barcelona so, like in the
first example, we have to work with products linked to the local Strawberry and Cabernet vinegar
landscape and culture. compote
Dark chocolate and black pepper crème
Because it is a dessert to be shared between two people, the custo-
mer has asked for the dessert to be larger than the standard dessert. Madirofolo Plantation 65% Madagascar
With regard to the ingredients, the person says that they would like, chocolate mousse
because of their childhood memories, to incorporate a combination
of strawberries, vinegar and black pepper into the dessert.

During the creative journey, at some point, dialogue is established

with the chef, who advises changing the chocolate in the reference
dessert (example 1) for another that goes better with the new ingre-
dients. The new chocolate will be the Madirofolo Plantation 65%
and it will be used for the black pepper crème and the mousse. This
slightly acidic chocolate has clear red fruit notes that it owes to the
cocoa from Madagascar.

Finally, and also as part of this dialogue, it is agreed to customise

the nuts, substituting the Marcona almonds for Negreta hazelnuts,
which will form part of the olive oil financier and the cereal crisp.

Ingredients linked to childhood

memory

Strawberries from Maresme, Barcelona

(Catalunya)

Sweet and sour vinegar Forum,

Cabernet Sauvignon, El Vendrell,
Tarragona (Catalunya)

Black pepper

Chocolate couverture Madirofolo

Plantation, BIO and 100%
traceability in cocoa beans

Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 15
 Entremets
Recipe makes approx. 6 units measuring 10 cm in diameter and 4.5 cm high
Hazelnut and olive oil financier
200 g Ground hazelnut with skin
436 g Icing sugar
160 g Plain flour
44 g Mixed-flower honey
430 g Egg whites
232 g Extra Virgin olive oil
Mix the sugar and ground almonds together,
then add the previously sieved flour.
Add the honey and the egg whites, mixing
everything together.
Finally add the olive oil.
Spread out on a tray with a rim 1 cm high.
Bake at 180/190 ºC.
Set aside.
Hazelnut crumble
220 g Chilled butter
200 g Demerara sugar
200 g Ground hazelnut with skin
400 g Plain flour
C/S Cocoa butter Mycryo®
Cut up the butter.
Place all the ingredients in a food
processor fitted with the blade.
Blend until you have a sandy texture.
Spread out on trays 60 x 40 cm and bake
at approximately 160 ºC.
Once baked, sprinkle with Mycryo® when
you take it out of the oven.
Hazelnut crisp
122 g Pure hazelnut paste
28 g Cocoa butter
225 g Hazelnut crumble
75 g Cereal flakes
Mix the pure hazelnut paste with the
melted cocoa butter.
Add the rest of the chopped ingredients.
Pour around 25 g into rings 8.5 cm in
diameter and set aside.
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB
Madirofolo chocolate and black pepper
chocolate crème
628 g Milk
158 g Single cream 35% fat
40 g Black peppercorns
188 g Egg yolk
78 g Sugar
360 g Madirofolo Plantation 65% Bring the single cream and milk to a
dark couverture chocolate
Heat the cream and milk to 90 ºC and
infuse with the black pepper for 5 minutes.
Filter and weigh the liquid, add milk until
you have 786 g of liquid.
Make a crème anglaise by heating the
infusion with the sugar.
Stir and pour over the egg yolks and ensu-
re correct pasteurisation.
Pour over the couverture chocolate and
emulsify.
Pour around 25 g into discs 8.5 cm in
diameter and freeze.
Strawberry and cabernet sauvignon
vinegar compote
360 g Fresh strawberries, diced
60 g Strawberry purée
40 g Forum Cabernet Sauvignon the hazelnut crisp.
sweet and sour vinegar
100 g Sugar
40 g Inverted sugar
4 g Pectin NH
Dice the fresh strawberries and mix with
the strawberry purée and vinegar.
Heat the sugar and combine with the
pectin and the inverted sugar.
Boil for one minute, stop and set aside.
*For every 1000 g of compote, add 13 g
of gelatine leaves
Pour around 80 g of compote onto
the frozen 8.5 cm diameter chocolate
crème discs.
Madirofolo chocolate mousse
250 g Single cream 35% fat
250 g Milk
670 g Madirofolo Plantation 65%
dark couverture chocolate
940 g Single cream 35% fat
simmer.
Pour the mixture over the couverture
chocolate a little bit at a time and blend
thoroughly until the ganache is smooth
and shiny.
Finally, top the chocolate base, which will
be at approximately 40/45 ºC, with the
lightly whipped cream.
Carefully mix and assemble the cake
immediately.
Assembly
Measure out a layer of chocolate mousse
in the bottom of the moulds.
Place the fruit compote together with the
chocolate crème.
Continue assembling, layering mousse
with financier discs cut to 8.5 cm that
have been soaked in olive oil and finally
Put in the freezer and once frozen, spray
with a mixture of 70% Madirofolo
Plantation couverture chocolate and 30%
cocoa butter.
Decorate.
Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 17
Ramon Morató
Ramon was born in Manlleu, Barcelona into a family with no
connections whatsoever to the world of confectionery. After
completing his studies, Ramon Morató began his training in a
number of different establishments.
He combined his studies with numerous courses offered at the
school of the Barcelona Provincial Confectioners’ Association.
During a period of stages at several of the best Spanish
Fanny Parise
Fanny Parise is a French anthropologist, a specialist in
contemporary worlds and changing lifestyles. As a practitioner-
researcher, she develops academic research at the Institut
Lémanique de Théologie Pratique of the University of Lausanne
and private international expertise (Europe, Canada, Asia, Middle
East, Africa) with industrialists and retailers (mass consumption,
Web food, luxury, housing, mobility, health, hygiene, etc.).
www.cacao-barry.com

confectioners, he also went to important schools and technical www.ramonmorato.com She engages her research work in a process of scientific
centres such as ZDS Solingen, Germany and the Richard Conseil Instagram popularization thanks to her podcast Madame l'anthropologue,
school in Lyon, France. @ramonmorato to the Mythologies of the Future that she co-founded and to the
Twitter scientific transfer tools that she is developing under the brand
As the result of these years of work, and his ongoing desire for @ramonmorato_ name of her collective Magical Thinking®.
innovation, he published “RAMON MORATO Chocolate”. It won
the Best Cookbook in the World on the subject of Chocolate in
2007 at the distinguished Gourmand World Cookbook Awards.

More recently, in December 2016 he published the book “Four

in One together” with chefs Raul Bernal, Josep Maria Ribé and
Miquel Guarro, on the occasion of the celebration of the 20th
anniversary of the Chocolate Academy in Barcelona. Web
madamelanthropologue.com
The possibility of connecting with many professionals in Instagram
different fields gave him ample knowledge of the craft and @madame_lanthropologue
helped him to realise his passion for teaching, researching and Twitter
creating products related with the world of confectionery. @FannyParise

In recent years, this has brought him to teach courses, seminars

and conferences all over the world, as well as special endeavours
such as a collaboration project with Harvard University through
the Alicia Foundation.
Currently he is Creative Director for the Cacao Barry brand.

Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise

Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 19
Pastry&Anthropology Cacao Barry® LAB Ramon Morató Fanny Parise
Cacao Barry® Chef Anthropologist 21
Pastry & Anthropology
Ramon Morató
Cacao Barry® Chef
Fanny Parise
Anthropologist

Appreciations:
Marta Trias
SAIA
Xavier González
Cacao Barry® LAB Chef