Hair-Color-Luster Formula

j. Cosmet.
Sci., 55,423-436 (September/October

2004)
Effect of hair color on luster
K. KEIS, K. R. RAMAPRASAD, and Y. K. KAMATH,

TRI/Princeton,
P.O. Box 625, Princeton,
NJ 08542.
Accepted
for publication
July 7, 2004. Presented
at theAnnualScientific
Meetingand Technology Showcaseof theSociety
of Cosmetic
Chemists,
New York, December
4-5, 2003.
Synopsis
The effectof coloron instrumentallyevaluatedlusterof hair dyed to differentcolorsand depthsof shades
is studied.For naturalhair colors,suchasblond,brown,and black,the increase in lusterwith increasing
coloris associated with a decrease in diffuselyscatteredlight as a resultof light absorptionby melanin
granules.On dyedhair the interpretation of datafrom a goniophotometer (GP) is morecomplicated. Using
the colorscoveringthe extremesand middle of the visible spectrum,our resultsdemonstratehow dye
composition(singleor multicomponent),concentration,and penetrationdepth into the fiber affect the
absorptiveand scatteringprocesses within the hair fiber to impact luster.Finally, we makean attempt to
studythe effectof haircoloron subjective evaluationof luster.An equationfor perceivedluster,takinginto
accountthe spectralsensitivityof the humaneyeis derived.Theoreticalconsiderations showthat the luster
of hair of differentcolorsis perceiveddifferentlyby the humaneye.
INTRODUCTION
The luster of hair is an essentialquality for hair beauty. It is an optical phenomenon

resultingfrom the specularreflectionof light at the air-cuticle interface.Although the
mechanismof specularreflectionfrom the air-cuticle interface is relatively simple,
opticalprocesses contributingto the diffusereflectionare complicatedbecauseof the
cellularstructureof the hair. Sofar, manymodelsof light reflectionfrom hair fibershave
beendescribedin the literature;however,thereis no simplerelationshipbetweenluster
andthe light reflectedfrom hair (1-6). The greatinterestin lusterhasresultedin a large
number of studieson the effectof variouscosmeticproductson luster and the devel-
opment of a variety of methodsfor measuringit (1-12). At TRI, luster is arbitrarily
calculatedfrom the amountsof specularlyand diffuselyreflectedlight from goniopho-
tometric measurements (13).
The wide range of natural hair colorsis determinedby the total amount of melanin
(either eumelaninor pheomelanin,or a mixture of the two) presentin the cortexof the
hair fiber (14). For naturalhair colors,suchasblond,brown,andblack,lusteris highest
for the onewith the darkesthue,explainedby the low intensityof the diffuselyscattered
light, while the intensityof the specularlyreflectedlight remainsthe same.This is
attributed to the effectivelight absorptionby melanin granules,dark hair containing
423
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From: SCC Media Library & Resource Center (library.scconline.org)
424 JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE
significantlymore melanin than light hair. Hair coloring with semipermanenthair

colorsis nowadayswidely usednot only to covergray hair but alsoto highlight and
brighten the color of one's own naturally coloredhair, a practice that is especially
popular among youngerpeople.
Semipermanentcolorsgenerallyconsistof large number of dyeswith varioushuesin
order to achievea desiredshade.The presenceof multiple dyeswith different concen-
trations, molecularstructures,and sizesresultsin different affinities and penetration
depthsinto the hair fiber, which in turn affectthe absorptiveand scatteringprocesses.
The interestof this work is in instrumentalevaluationof the lusterof hair dyedwith
differentcolorsanddepthsof shade,to demonstrate the effectof artificialcoloron luster.
Also, an attempt has been made to study the effect of hair color on the subjective
evaluation of luster.
EXPERIMENTAL
Naturally unpigmentedPiedmonthair wasusedin orderto preventthe scatteringand

absorptionof light by melanin. The dyeing processwas selectedto causethe least
damageto the interiorof the hair, to minimize the influenceof structuralchangeupon
coloring.The hair colorsusedin this studywerecommerciallyavailablesemipermanent
dyes:Clairol Xtreme FX Blue Denim, GreenWeed, and Hot Red. Thesecolorscoverthe
extremesand middle of the visible spectrum.Selectedcolorsconsistof combinationsof
a numberof dyesin orderto achievethe desiredshade,asshownin Table I. Tresses were
not pretreatedprior to coloring.For eachcolor,threetresses
of size2.5 (W) x 15 (L) cm,
with a weight of 2 g, werepreparedand dyedfor five, 20 and 45 minutes.The tresses
werethoroughlywashedwith aleionized waterto removeexcess dyefrom the surfaceand
finally dried in air at room temperature.
Using an UltraScanXE spectrophotometer equippedwith integratingsphere,the total
reflectancespectrawere recordedover the wavelengthrangeof 360 to 780 nm. The
operatingconditionswere the following: D65 illuminant, a 10ø viewing angle, an
Table I
Dyes Presentin Semipermanent
Clairol ColorsUsed for Dyeing PiedmontHair
Piedmont
Hair
I I I
Blue Denim Green Weed Hot Red

Clairol Xtreme FX Clairol Xtreme FX Clairol Xtreme FX
I I I
HC Blue 2 Basic Yellow 57 Basic Red 76
Basic Blue 99 Basic Blue 99 HC Red 3
HC Yellow 4 HC Red 1

EFFECT OF HAIR COLOR ON LUSTER 425
aperturewith a diameterof 6 mm, and a horizontalsampleposition.The reflectanceis

dominatedby diffusereflectance. If the spectrophotometer's
geometricconditionsex-
cluded the specular,the measuredvaluesof diffuse reflectancewere decreasedat all
wavelengths by a constantamount(lessthan 1%). This showsthat the specularcom-
ponentof reflectedlight is very small.
In orderto measureluster,a modifiedBrice-Phoenix goniophotometer (GP) wasusedto
recordthe intensityof scattered light asa functionof angle.Measurementswerecarried
out on 30 randomlychosensinglehair fibersfor eachcolorand dyeingtime. A He-Ne
laserwith a wavelengthof 632 nm anda quartztungstenhalogenlampemittingwhite
light were usedas illuminationsources. A singlehair fiber wasplacedin the sample
holderhorizontallyat an angleof incidenceof 45ø and the reflectedlight wasdetected
by the photomultiplierasa functionof angle.Measurements werecarriedout with the
fiber in the root-to-tip positionat approximatelythe samedistancefrom the root end.
The luster was calculatedby:
S
--
L=S+D 100% (1)

whereS is definedasthe specular
peakareaobtainedfromthe GP curveusinga Gaussian
distribution and (S + D) is the total area under the curve. The actual deconvolution is
donewith Peakfitsoftware,asshownin Figure 1.
For the subjectiveluster evaluation,a light box with black interior equippedwith
uniformlighting (a 20-W Philipsfluorescentlamp) wasconstructed. A black (matte
0.35
0.3 - - - Fitted
0.25
0.1
S+D
0.05
i i
0 10 40 50 60 70 80 90
Scattering angle (degrees)

Figure 1. Typicalgoniophotometric
curveand its deconvolution
into specularpeakwith Peakfitsoftware.

finish) cylinderparallel to the light sourceservedas a mounting devicefor the tresses.

Tressesof Piedmonthair coloredfor 45 minuteswerecombedand then tightly wound
aroundthe cylinder,resultingin a consistentand parallelalignmentof hair fibers.A
panel of 20 untrainedevaluatorswasaskedto evaluatethe tresseson a scaleof 1 to 5,
where 5 representsthe highest luster.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
REFLECTANCE MEASUREMENTS
The spectralreflectance
curveshowingthe fractionof light reflectedat eachwavelength
is an importantcharacteristic
of the coloredobjectandgivesinformationabouthueand
saturation of color. The recorded reflectance curves for the hair tresses with different
colorsareshownin Figure2. As expected,the reflectionof the light of at leasttheir own
hue and absorptionof complementary huesareobserved for differentcolors.The refer-
encePiedmonthair has a high reflectancein the red, yellow, and greenparts of the
spectrumanda low reflectance in the blue region.For Piedmonthair dyedwith Clairol
Hot Redcolor,a steeprisein reflectanceis observedat wavelengths longerthan600 nm.
For the Piedmont hair dyed with Clairol Green Weed and Denim Blue colors,the
reflectance
spectrashowpronounced maximaat around530 and 480 nm, respectively.
From the reflectancecurvesit is alsoimportant to note that for all colorsthe charac-
teristic reflectancebands are broad (half width of more than 50 nm). This indicates the
dullnessof the hair hue. A weak secondband in the reflectancespectrumcan further
complicatethe observed hue. A reflectance
tail at wavelengthshigherthan 650 nm is
attributed to the reflectanceof the substrate(i.e., Piedmont hair) from the fiber interior.
The largestchangein reflectance curvesoccursbetween0 and 5 minutesof dyeingtime.

Thereafter,the decrease in total reflectance
is small,indicatingthat additionaluptakeof
the dye is small.Theseexperimentalobservations canbe correlatedwith the properties
of the individualcomponents in commercialsemipermanent dyesasfollows:The com-
mercialdyesemployedin this studycontainboth neutralHC dyesand cationically
chargedbasicdyes.The basicdyeshavea high affinityfor keratinfibersandareknown
to color the cuticlevery rapidly, which is observedin the reflectionspectraafter five
minutesof dyeingtime. However,due to their high molecularweight, basicdyesare
unlikely to penetrateinto the hair cortex.In contrast,HC dyes,consistingpredomi-
nantlyof aromaticamine,nitroaromaticamine,and anthraquinone derivates,havelittle
affinity for hair. Even though the HC dyespenetrateinto the fiber cortexduring 45
minutesof dyeingtime, the dye concentration in the cuticularsheathis muchhigher
comparedto the fiber interior.This wasconfirmedby opticalmicroscope examination
of the crosssections of red-colored hair,showingthe typicalring-dyedcrosssectionwith
the cuticularsheathasa dark red ring, predominantlyproducedby the basicdye, and
a weak pink-coloredcortex,resultingfrom the neutral HC red dyes.We note that
dyeingwith semipermanent dyesdoesnot involvechemicalreaction,but dependson
diffusionof colorants from the solutioninto the hair. Therefore,the resultingcoloration
of Piedmont hair is relatively weak (see Figure 3A). Strongercolorationcould be
achievedby usingbleachedhair insteadof Piedmonthair, asbleachingdamagewould
make hair easilypenetrable.

8O
7O Piedmont
• 60
r- 50
m 4O
Red (sp)
o 2o
lO
0 i i i i i i i l
350 400 450 500 550 600 650 700 750 80O
Wavelength (nm)
8O
Piedmont
7O
• 60
r- 50
m 4O
Blue (sp)
0 2O
10
0 • i i i i [ i l
350 400 450 500 550 600 650 700 750 800
B Wavelength (nm)
Figure2. Reflectance
spectra
for Piedmonthair beforeandaftercoloringwith (A) red,(B) blue,and
(C) greensemipermanent
dyes.Arrowsindicates
the increase
in dyeingtime (5, 20, and45 minutes).
(Continuedon following page)
In reference
(7), the useof CIELAB colorparameters
obtainedfroma diffusereflectance
spectrophotometer
asa measure
of lusteris suggested:
thelusterscaleis built by using
the calculatedtotal colordifference(AE), wherethe zero-lustercorresponds
to the color
valuesof thesamplebeforeapplyingtheluster-improving treatment.In ourstudy,when
measuring the CIELABtristimulusvalues(L*, a*, b*) for coloredhair, the lightness
indeed decreasesand the total color difference increases for the same colored hair with
increasing
dyeingtime. However,the lusterscalebuilt in this waydoesnot correlate

80
._.70 Piedmont
•6o t
• 30 Green
(sp)
2o
lO
o ,
360 410 460 510 560 610 660 710 760 810
C Wavelength (rim)
Figure 2. (Continuedfrom previouspage)
A B
Figure 3. Picturesof coloredhair: (A) Colorationof Piedmont hair after 45 minutes of dyeing with
semipermanent blue, green,and red colors.(B) Colorationof Piedmonthair with CIAR-4, CIAO-4, and
CIAB-25 dyesunder specificconditions.
with the actual luster changemeasuredwith the goniophotometer.Additionally, the

total color differencesfor differentcolorsfor the samedyeing time are very different,
whereasthe experimentallustervaluesare found to be very similar underwhite-light
illumination (seediscussion in the last section).This showsthat assemblinga lusterscale
from the measuredcolorparametersby this methodis obviouslynot possible,exceptin
specificcases.
LUSTER MEASUREMENTS
Luster by instrumentaldetectiondependson spectralreflectanceof the hair, spectral

powerdistributionof the light source,and eventuallyon spectralresponse of the de-
tector. For simplicity, GP measurementswere doneusing a monochromaticillumination
source,and it servesas a sensitiveprobeof fiber absorptiveand scatteringproperties.

Lustervaluesasa functionof dyeingtime undermonochromatic illumination areshown

in Figure4. For all dyesthe increase
in lusterwith dyeingtime waslow. Most changes
in luster occurredbetween zero and five minutes dyeing time, similar to changes
observedin reflectancespectra.During this time basicdyespenetratedthe cuticleand
deposited
on thefibersurface.
Fromfiveminutesto 45 minutesthe changein lusterwas
smaller.Eventhoughthe HC dyespenetratedinto the cortexduringthis time, theywere
not sufficientto reachsorptionequilibrium (15). Thus, changesin lusterwith dyeing
time are similar to thoseof reflectancespectraand are relatedto the differentaffinities
and different time-baseddyeing characteristicsof semipermanentdye components.For
all colorswe noticedthat with increasingdyeingtime the diffusepeakswereweakerand
the resolutionof the specularand diffusepeakswasbetter,whichresultedin increased
luster values.
The increasein lusterwith increasein coloration,and thus with dye concentrationin the
fiber, can be explainedby a simpleopticalmodelfor light reflectionfrom hair fiber,
shownin Figure5. When light with an intensityof I o impingeson a hair fiber with an
angleof incidence of 45ø, severalprocessessuchasreflection,absorption,
andscattering
occur.The conservation of light can be expressed
as follows:
•0 = IR q-IABq-ISCq-IOUT (2)
whereI R is the intensityof reflectedlight, lABandIsc areintensities of absorbed and
internallyscattered light, andlouT is the intensityof transmittedlight, i.e., lostfrom
the back side of the fiber. The first term in equation2, IR, containsreflectionswith
different origins:
= Ix. + Io,FF(x)+ IO,F(,NT) (3)
28
Red
26
24
Green
Blue
õ 2o
18
16
14
12
0 10 20 30 40 50
Dyeing time (min!

Figure 4. Lustercalculatedfrom goniophotometric
curvesfor variousdyeingtimes for differentsemiper-
manentcolors.Measurements wereperformedunderHe-Ne laserbeamillumination(k=632 nm).

lOUT
IAa+Isc IAs+Isc
Iolvv(s)
Isp IDIFF(INT)
Figure 5. Geometricaland physicalopticsof light interactingwith a model cylindricalfiber.
whereIsp is specularlyreflectedlight fromthe surface

of the fiber,ID•FF(SR)is the
diffusely
reflected
light resultingfromsurfaceroughness,
andID•Fm•NT) is thecompo-
nent of diffuselyreflectedlight coming from the reflectedbeam from the back side of
the fiber.Io•m•NT) depends
greatlyon the internalstructureof the fiber and its
absorptiveand scatteringbehavior.By introducingequation3 into equation2, the
expressionfor luster can be rewritten as:
Isp Isp
L=(isv
+IDWV(SR)
+iDWV(,NT))
=I0_[AB
--([SC
.qu
[OUT) (4)
It shouldbenotedthatbothIDWV(•N•)
andIou• arefunctions
of lABandIsc.Also,lAB
and Isc are interdependent. If absorptionis dominant,then scatteringIsc + Iou• is
considerablyreduced.Equation 4 can be usedto interpret luster changesof a fiber
substratebasedon absorptiveand scatteringprocesses. Sincespecularreflectanceis a
surfacephenomenonand is essentiallyindependentof hair color, the luster given by
equation4 is controlledby the denominator.If lAB is large, the amountof diffusely
scatteredbackground light isverysmall.The smalldenominator giveshighluster.IflAB
is small, Isc is larger and the light scatteringin the fiber interior occursin multiple
directions,which givesa diffusebackground.The denominatoris larger and luster is
lower.The refractiveindexplaysan importantrolein controllingboth the Isc andIou•.
Thus, absorptiveprocesses play a dominant role in controllingthe denominatorof
equation4 and luster.This explanationis both true for coloredhair, wherethe absorp-
tion of light arisesfrom the dye moleculesin the fiber interior, and for naturallycolored
hair, whereabsorptionis by melaningranules.The effectof dyeingtime on lustercan
be explainedby equation4, sinceabsorptionand scatteringdependon the type of dye
(extinctioncoefficient)and its penetrationand distributioninto the fiber.

The second featurewe observe from Figure4 is that the red-colored hair hasthe greatest
lustercomparedto blue- and green-colored hair for all dyeingtimes.For a 45-minute
dyeingtime, red-colored hair hada lusterof 28%, whereasfor blue- and green-colored
hair the corresponding valuewas21%. The lusterfor untreatedPiedmonthair is 15%.
TypicalGP curvesfor thesesamples areshownin Figure6. The surface roughness of hair
is comparablefor tressesof all colors,as shownwith similar intensitiesof specular
reflectance.Thus, it is reasonable to assumethat the specularreflectancemeasuredfrom
GP curvesis not affectedby the colorof the hair (i.e., Isv is constantandI R in equation
3 is diffusereflectance).The diffusecomponentof the GP curvesis very differentfor
Piedmontand red-colored hair. In the caseof blue andgreenhair, the diffusereflectance
seemsto have a constantratio to the specularcomponent,leading to almost identical
lustervaluesfor thesesamples,but slightly lower valuescomparedto red-coloredhair.
The reflectanceat 632 nm (i.e., the wavelengthof illumination)for Piedmonthair is
56% and for red-coloredhair 25%, whereasit is lowerfor green-and blue-coloredhair,
being 18% and 15%, respectively
(seeFigure2). Sinceabsorbance is -(I-R), the absor-
bancesof Piedmontand red-, green-,and blue-colored
hair at 632 nm are44%, 75%,
82% and 85%, respectively.
For a coloredhair fiber the diffusereflectancewill dependupon the absorptioncoeffi-

cient of the color for the specificwavelengthof the radiationusedand its depth of
penetration.The total absorbance,
A, per unit path lengthof the fiber is givenby
A = a?l?
+ a•l• (5)
0.4
0.36
Piedmont
0.3
(sp
(sp)
Red (sp)
0.1
0.05
i i i i i i i i i
0 10 20 30 40 $0 60 70 80 90 100

Figure 6. Typicalgoniophotometric
curvesfor barePiedmonthair andPiedmonthair coloredwith blue,
red,andgreensemipermanent dyesfor 45 minutes.Illuminationwavelength
is 632 nm.

Here,apandadaretheabsorbances perunit pathlength

of theundyedanddyedparts
of thePiedmont
hair,respectively,
andlpandld arefractionsof theundyed anddyed
pathlengths
withinthe fiber,respectively.
Sincelp = 1-1•t,we obtainthe following
expression
for total absorbance:
A - %- 1,•(%
- a,•) (6)
Sincea_v
isalways
smaller
thanad,
a• - ad<0, andA will increase
withanincrease
in ld
(i.e., dye penetration),we note that in the caseof undyedPiedmonthair, ld = 0 and
A = a•.
The diffusereflectance canbe expressed
by combiningequations2 and 6 and knowing
that IAB -- IoA, as follows:
I,e= Io(1 - A) - Isc- Io• T (7)
Equation 8 showsthe dependenceof diffuse reflectanceon dye absorbance and the

pathlengthof the dyedregion.AccoMingto equation8, diffusereflectance I R will have
its highest value if ld and ad are zero (i.e., undyed Piedmont hair). Therefore,for
Piedmonthair, lusteris low. For coloredhair, ld >0 and diffusereflectanceis reduced.
Diffusereflectance is reducedespecially by dyeshavinghigherad,i.e., a higherextinc-
tion coefficient,and higherld, i.e., the capabilityof penetratingthe fiber completely.
Suchhair colorswill increasethe luster.Equation8 canbe usedto interpretthe relative
magnitudesof diffusereflectances observedin Figure6: examinationof crosssections of
hairfibersdyedfor45 minutesby microscope revealsthevariationin penetration depths
for studiedsemipermanent dyes.In the caseof blueandgreendyes,ld wassignificantly
smallercomparedto the red dye. Therefore,the valuesof IR are lower comparedto
Piedmonthair. In the caseof red-coloredhair, thoughits absorbance is slightlylower
than that dyed with the green and blue colors,ld was higher. This is the reasonthat
red-coloredhairgavea lowerdiffusereflectanceanda higherlustervalue.Thus,equation
8 demonstrates the importanceof both dye absorbance and penetrationdepth on the
amountof diffuselyreflectedlight, and thus on luster.
In order to illustrate the importanceof dye distribution in the fiber on luster, we
conductedthe followingexperiment.We used1% solutionsof pure,single-component
dyes,CI acid orange-4,CI acid red-4, and CI acid blue-25, to saturatePiedmonthair
fibersby dyeingthem underthe followingconditions: pH = 4.5, T -- 55øC,andt = 30
min. Thesedyesareionicanthraquinone dyesconsisting of sulfonicacidgroupsandhave
a high affinity to protein fibers.Under the given dyeing conditions,strongcoloration
with homogeneous dye distributionthroughoutthe hair fiber wasachieved,asconfirmed
by examinationwith an opticalmicroscope. This is in markedcontrastto the basicdyes
usedin commercialsemipermanentproducts.The actualcolorationof the Piedmonthair
after dyeingwith CI acid dyesis shownin Figure 3B. The reflectance spectrafor hair
tressescoloredwith CI aciddyesaredisplayedin Figure7. Reflectances for red-, orange-,
and blue-dyedhair at the illuminationwavelengthof 632 nm are 63%, 57% and 4%,
respectively.
Forthissystem
a• = 0, andsincethefibersaredyedthroughout
ld = const,
equation8 will reduceto
I• = Io(1 - l•za•z
) - Isc- Io• r (9)

80 C I.a.q,-4(Red)
70
• 60
• 5o
CIAO-4 (Orange)
3o
20
CIAB-25
(Blue)/
10
400 450 500 550 600 650 700 750
Wavelength (nm)
Figure 7. Reflectance
spectrafor Piedmonthair coloredwith pureCI aciddyesfor 30 minutes.
Basedon this, we would expect the diffuse reflectanceto be in the order of blue
< orange--<red. Therefore,lusterwill be in the orderof blue > orange-->red. From the
GP scansshownin Figure 8, the high diffusereflectanceand low lusteraround 19% was
found for red- and orange-coloredhair. For blue-coloredhair the red laserbeam was
almostcompletelyabsorbed,
resultingin low diffusereflectance
and high lustervalues
around 45%.
It is importantto notethat the variationin spectraldistributionof the light sourcecan

alterthe observed coloraswell aslustermainlyby affectingthe diffusereflectance,since
specular reflectionis essentially
constantwith respectto the wavelengthof light because
of the verysmallchangein the indexof refraction.For example,underthe white-light
illumination,the hair samples saturatedwith red,blue,andorangeone-component dyes
havesimilarlustervalues,around47%. Because of the multi-wavelengthnatureof the
white light, the fractionalchangesin onespectralcomponentdue to colorare overshad-
owedby otherwavelengths. Also,for hairdyedwith semipermanent dyes,the calculated
lustervaluesfrom the GP curvesareclose,between27% and 29% whenwhite light is
used as an illumination source. For red hair this value is close to that obtained with the
red laser,but for blue andgreenhair thesevaluesarehigherthan thoseobtainedat 632
nm. Again, due to the broadspectraldistribution,white light is lessdiscriminativeto
differencesin dyepenetrationdepthsat suchlow dyeconcentrations in the hair interior.
Although the interpretationof data can be done in a manner similar to that described
by equation8, it is clearthat this analysis
will be rathercomplexbecause oneneedsto
take into accountboth the sampleabsorbance
and spectralpowerdistributionof the
light sourceovera wide rangeof wavelengths.

0.36
0.3
0.26
CIAR-4 (Red)
ß
ClAO-4 (OranGe)
:::l 0.2
'• 0.16
"• 0.1
CIAB-2$ (Blue)
0.06
i i i
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 9O

Figure 8. Typical goniophotometric
curvesfor Piedmonthair coloredwith pure CIAO-4, CIAR-4, and
CIAB-25 dyesfor 30 minutes.
PERCEPTION OF LUSTER BY THE HUMAN EYE
The perceptualdescriptionof colordependson the spectralpowerdistributionof the

light source,/0•), the reflectanceof the object,r0•), and the spectralsensitivityof the
eye,s0•).Letthespecular
component
of reflectance
beconstant,
Rspec0•)
= k, knowing
that it dependson the surfacepropertiesandis independentof the hair color.The diffuse
reflectionfrom the hair is then the productof spectralpowerdistributionof the light
source
andspectral
reflectance
oftheobject,
Rdif/0•)= /0•) ' r0•).Theactuallusteras
definedearlierby equation1 is the ratio betweenthe specularand total reflectionfrom
the hair and canbe expressedasfollows:
• •'/(X)•
L•t•/= (10)
In orderto describe
the lusterperceived
by a person,the spectralsensitivityof the human
eye, s0•), shouldbe taken into account.The luster equationis thereforerewritten to
become
4x).
Lp
....
ired
x2foo f-•oo (11)
For blue, green,and red hair with the samecolorstrengthand saturation,the maximum
in the spectralreflectancecurveoccursat a different wavelengthbut with the same
energy.For simplicity,let us assumethat the spectralpower distributionof the light
sourceis homogeneously distributed over a wide wavelengthrange.Correspondingly,
the locationof the maximum in the productI(X) ßr(X) occursat differentwavelengths,
but the total areaunder the two reflectedenergycurveswill be the same.The difference
in perceivedlusterof hair with differentcolorsarisesfrom the s(X).The humanvisual
systemcandetectthe rangeof light from around400 nm to 700 nm. However,the eye
of a personwith normalvisionis not equallysensitiveoverthis wavelengthrange.The
sensitivityhas a maximum in spectralresponseat 550 nm, i.e., in the yellow-green
region,and lower responses in the blue and the red region. Therefore,the denominator
of equation 11 for different colorswill be in the order of blue < red < green. Conse-
quently, perceivedluster will be in the order of blue > red > green.Thus, under these
conditions,the human eye would perceiveblue-coloredhair as shinier than green-
coloredhair. This could explainwhy a small amount of blue dye addedto varioushair
careproductsmakeshair appearmore lustrous.From similar theoreticalconsiderations,
it is obviousthat for truly achromaticcolors,absorbinga constantfractionof light in the
visible region, the white color has alwaysthe lowest luster whereasthe black color has
the highest.
For the panelevaluatingthe coloreffectsof perceivedluster,the chromaticcolorsindeed
appearedwith differentshine.Seventy-eight percentof the evaluatorsthoughtthat the
Piedmonthair coloredwith blue dye wasshiniest,whereasthe remaining22% thought
the Piedmont hair coloredred was the shiniest.The red color seemedto have a higher
or the same luster comparedto the green color for 55% and 30% of the evaluators,
respectively.
Theseresultsshowthat the panelperceivedblue to be the shiniesthair and
that 55% of the panelperceivedred hair to be shinierthan green.The smallestnumber
perceivedred and greento havethe sameshine.This outcomeis approximatelyin the
expectedorder.
CONCLUSIONS
In conclusion,the luster valuesof hair coloredwith different dyesarisefrom variations

in dye concentrationand its penetrationdepth into the fiber. The luster of hair is
controlledby diffusereflectance dependingupon the extinctioncoefficientof the dye,
the penetrationdepth into the fiber, and the wavelengthof the light source.According
to the derivedequation,diffusereflectanceis reducedby dyeswith higher extinction
coefficients
and that arecapableof penetratingthe fiber completely.Suchhair colorswill
increase luster.
Ideally,underilluminationwith a broadhomogeneous spectralpowerdistributionlight

source,luster by instrumentaldetectionshouldnot dependon hair coloras long as the
dyeing level (pigmentationof colorantconcentration)and dye distributionwithin the
fiber are the same.Taking into accountthe colorsensitivityof the humaneyeover the
entirevisiblespectrum,the derivedexpression for perceivedlustershowsthat the luster
of hair of differentcolorsis perceiveddifferently.In general,hair with blue shadesgives
the highestluster,followedby red.The shadesin the middleof the visiblespectrumgive
the lowest luster.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This study was carriedout in connectionwith the TRI project "Analysisand Quanti-
ficationof Hair Damage,"supportedby a groupof TRI corporateparticipants.We thank
Ms. Sigrid B. Ruetschfor the opticalmicroscopy analyses
and Mr. Xin-Xian Huang for
supplyingus with single-component dyed hair.
REFERENCES
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(1993).
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Hair-Color-Luster Formula

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j. Cosmet.

Sci., 55,423-436 (September/October

Effect of hair color on luster

K. KEIS, K. R. RAMAPRASAD, and Y. K. KAMATH,

The luster of hair is an essentialquality for hair beauty. It is an optical phenomenon

significantlymore melanin than light hair. Hair coloring with semipermanenthair

Naturally unpigmentedPiedmonthair wasusedin orderto preventthe scatteringand

Blue Denim Green Weed Hot Red

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

aperturewith a diameterof 6 mm, and a horizontalsampleposition.The reflectanceis

L=S+D 100% (1)

Scattering angle (degrees)

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

finish) cylinderparallel to the light sourceservedas a mounting devicefor the tresses.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The largestchangein reflectance curvesoccursbetween0 and 5 minutesof dyeingtime.

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

with the actual luster changemeasuredwith the goniophotometer.Additionally, the

Luster by instrumentaldetectiondependson spectralreflectanceof the hair, spectral

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

Lustervaluesasa functionof dyeingtime undermonochromatic illumination areshown

Dyeing time (min!

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

whereIsp is specularlyreflectedlight fromthe surface

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

For a coloredhair fiber the diffusereflectancewill dependupon the absorptioncoeffi-

Scattering angle (degrees)

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

Here,apandadaretheabsorbances perunit pathlength

Equation 8 showsthe dependenceof diffuse reflectanceon dye absorbance and the

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

400 450 500 550 600 650 700 750

It is importantto notethat the variationin spectraldistributionof the light sourcecan

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

Scattering angle (degrees)

PERCEPTION OF LUSTER BY THE HUMAN EYE

The perceptualdescriptionof colordependson the spectralpowerdistributionof the

In conclusion,the luster valuesof hair coloredwith different dyesarisefrom variations

Ideally,underilluminationwith a broadhomogeneous spectralpowerdistributionlight

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

Purchased for the exclusive use of nofirst nolast (unknown)

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