Date: Fri, 28 Nov 1997 13:58:44 -0800

From: jp <jpa@agora.rdrop.com>
To: Emily Way <emily@vex.net>
Subject: generic sock recipe
Hi, Emily!
Here's the latest version of the generic sock recipe.
--jp
jpa@agora.rdrop.com
--------------
SOCK EASE
Most published sock patterns call for 8" of stitches for the leg
circumference on women's socks, at least for stockinette or ribbed
socks. Since most women's ankles are approximately 9", this translates
to "ankle circumference minus one inch." I've used "ankle minus one
inch" for men's socks, too. (Many men have ankles approx. 10" around, so
I cast on about 9" worth of stitches.) The only kid's socks I've made
have had color patterns, but I'd probably cast on "ankle minus 1/2 inch"
for them.
Another method I've seen is "measure around the ball of your foot, and
subtract 10%." For adults, this usually turns out to be just about
"ankle minus one inch."
However, I've also simply used ankle circumference, with no adjustments.
This seems to work fine, especially with a few inches of ribbing at the
top. I've only done this with wool, so I don't know how it would work
with cotton or other materials. I'm more likely to use this measurement
if I think the socks might shrink a bit.
Another thing to be on the lookout for is the yarn thickness. A thicker
yarn is more likely to be close to "ankle circumference," while a thin
yarn is more likely to be "ankle minus X."
For color-stranded patterns, I usually use ankle circumference, and
sometimes even add a few stitches. As you know, color-stranded fabric
doesn't stretch nearly as much as single-color fabric. I also check the
fit of the socks frequently. If you're switching to non-patterned
stockinette for the foot, you might want to reduce the number of
stitches in the foot to account for the gauge change.
For cabled socks, I'll often do a small swatch. The cables draw in a
lot, but there's enough "ribbiness" that the resulting sock is fairly
elastic. In general, for simple cable-and-rib patterns, I'll cast on
about 20% more stitches than I would if the sock were in stockinette (48
vs. 40, 72 vs. 60, etc.). Socks with cables are good for people who
won't tell you their ankle circumference; there's plenty of cling and
stretch in them.
For socks from the toe up, it probably depends on the kind of heel
you're putting in. For western socks (Dutch/German heel or round heel),
calculate as above. For eastern socks (inserted heel, decreased like a
toe), you'll probably want a looser fit, since they can be a pain to get
on otherwise. Also, the cast-off usually isn't as elastic as the
cast-on. You can always try them on as you go. When I make eastern
style socks, I'll do the heel before I'm finished with the leg (using
the other end of the yarn balls) so I can check the fit.
There's a lot of variation out there. Luckily, I don't think there is
one right way to do things. As long as the socks aren't too tight to
fit over the ankle and aren't too loose to stay on the feet...
----------------------------
Generic No-Frills Sock Recipe
Here is a basic pattern for socks, made on double-pointed needles, using
whatever size yarn and needles you feel like using. I am assuming you
know basic knitting, how to knit in the round, and that perhaps you've
even tried making socks before. This makes socks that are fairly short,
so there is no need to shape the calf.
You need a few measurements from the target (the potential sock-wearer).
Measure the length of the foot and the approximate circumference of the
ankle -- maybe an inch or two above the slenderest area.
Take your desired yarn. Worsted weight or bulky yarn makes thick socks;
use sports weight to fingering weight for thinner socks. Make a swatch
to determine your gauge. Try a few different sizes of needles, because
sometimes the yarn looks best knit at a different gauge. Usually, the
thicker yarns end up at 3-6 stitches/inch, while the thinner ones look
better at about 6-10 stitches/inch. You don't need an exact gauge --
you can often be off by up to plus or minus half a stitch per inch
without making too much difference in the size and fit of the final
product.
If you knit loosely and can't get a tight enough gauge, you can always
make the sock too big and full it (ie shrink it) after it's done. You
might want to try this on a swatch to see how much shrinking will occur.
You can also use two strands of yarn to make a thicker sock.
So, now you know how many stitches you need to cast on -- gauge x
circumference = number of stitches. It helps if this number is even,
but it's not necessary. Add a few stitches if you want, or whenever
necessary for your stitch or color patterns.

1. Cast on loosely onto double-pointed needles (dpns). Join, and knit a

ribbing for an inch or two. (Use your favorite rib - k1p1, k2p1, k2p2
-- it doesn't really matter.) Then, switch to stockinette stitch (or
your pattern stitch) and knit until the sock is long enough (usually
from 4-8 inches long).

2. Now, divide for the heel. Half of the stitches (the instep) are left
on the dpns or put on a holder. The other half will become the heel.
Unless it's important for your particular pattern (cables, symmetric
patterns, etc.), it doesn't matter which half of the stitches becomes
the heel and which the instep. Put the heel stitches on one needle.
Knit back and forth on the needles in stockinette stitch (k 1 row, p 1
row) for as many rows as there are stitches on the needle. In theory,
you're trying to end up with a square, but slight deviations don't
really matter. If you're using heel stitch or some such thing, do it
until you have a square, more or less. (If you measure how many rows of
stockinette stitch equals one inch, you can make the heel as long as it
would have been if you were using stockinette stitch.) How you handle
the selvage is your business -- I usually slip the first stitch of each
row, except when I don't. End the heel with a right-side row.

3. Next, turn the heel. Purl to the middle of the row. (If you have an
odd number of stitches, purl the middle stitch, too.)
Then, p1, p2tog, p1, and turn.
Slip 1, k back to the middle, k1, SSK, K1, and turn. (The Sl 1,K1,
PSSO decrease can be used instead of the SSK, if you'd rather.)
Slip 1, P back to the middle, p2, p2tog, p1, turn. (You should be
doing the p2tog across the gap created by the slipped stitch.)
Slip 1, k back to the middle, k2, SSK, k1, turn. (SSK across the gap.)
Slip 1, p back to the middle, p3, p2tog, p1, turn.
Slip 1, k back to the middle, k3, SSK, k1, turn.
And so on, until you reach the edge of the heel. You should have about
half the number of stitches you started with, or maybe a few more than
half. If you haven't finished with a right-side row, then turn your
work and knit across.
The Secret Heel-Turning Formula -- What you are doing in heel-turning is
the following: (a) you are setting up two decrease points, which are
spaced equally far from the middle of the sock heel, and (b) once the
decrease points are set up, you simply decrease across the gaps. After
the first set of decreases, careful stitch-counting isn't really
necessary.
Heel-Turning Variations -- There are two things in the heel-turning
that vary in sock patterns I've seen:
(a) Whether you start the decreases on a knit row or a purl row (it
doesn't matter as long as you finish with the other kind); and
(b) Which stitch you start the decreases on. This pattern says to
"go to the middle, plus 1." The "+ 1" could really be + 0, + 1, + 2,
..., maybe up + 4 or + 5 for certain kinds of socks. I usually use +1
or +2.

4. Pick up stitches on the side of the heel -- 1 stitch for every 2

rows, or about half the number that you started the heel with. Knit
across the instep stitches that you set aside earlier. Pick up more
stitches on the other side of the heel (the same as on the first side of
the heel). Knit one row around in order to get things moving again.
Re-arrange stitches on your dpns -- the round now begins in the middle
of the heel, and instep stitches should be kept on their own needle(s) -
1 needle if using 4 dpns, 2 needles if using 5 dpns.
(I often pick up an extra stitch in each corner of the instep. I pick
up the loose yarn there, put it on the left needle, and usually knit
into the back of it in order to give it a twist. This usually takes
care of the little hole that can develop there. Or, I'll pick up the
extra stitch from the stitch below the first stitch of the heel. I
don't need to knit into the back of the stitch when I do this. I
decrease this extra corner/instep stitch as part of the regular gusset
decreases.)

5. Now, decrease away the extra stitches. Starting from the middle of
the heel, k all the way up the side of the heel and K2tog the last two
stitches at the side of the heel. Knit across the instep needle(s). SSK
(or SKP) the first two stitches on the other heel needle and finish
knitting the round. Knit the next row around. Repeat these two rounds
until you're back to the number of stitches you started the sock with.

6. Knit the foot of the sock until it's about two inches less than the
final length of the foot. Then, decrease for the toe. Starting from
the middle of the heel (or bottom of the foot, at this point):
Round 1:
first needle: K until the last 3 stitches on the needle, K2tog, K1;
instep needle(s): K1, SSK, K until the last 3 stitches on the instep,
K2tog, K1;
last needle: K1, SSK, K to the end.
Round 2: knit evenly around
When you're down to the last inch or so of stitches on each side of the
foot (usually 4-8 on each side of the foot or 8-16 total stitches),
break off sufficient yarn and graft the remaining stitches.
If you can't stand grafting, you could finish the sock like a hat.
Continue the toe decreases until only 6-8 stitches remain. Break off
sufficient yarn and run it twice through the stitches, pulling it snug.
If you think this toe is a little too pointy, here is a slight
variation: Knit the foot of the sock until it's a bit less than two
inches less than the final length of the foot. Then, decrease just like
above. When you're down to about half the original number of stitches,
decrease every round instead of every other round. Finish either by
grafting or by running yarn through the last 6-8 stitches.

7. Knit a matching (or compatible) sock, following the directions while

you still remember how you did it, or while you can still read the
scribbled notes you took during the first one.

For those of you who like to understand percentages and proportions:

The heel is done on half the stitches.
About half (or half plus a few) of the heel stitches will remain
after turning the heel. Heel-turning decreases are symmetric around the
middle stitch(es) of the heel.
The number of stitches picked up on each side of the heel
should be about one half of the number of heel stitches (i.e. - one
quarter the original number of stitches, picked up at each side).
At this point, you have about 1.25 times the original number of
stitches you started with (plus maybe a few more).
Decrease the sock back to the original number of stitches for the
foot.
The toe decreases start about 2" from the end for people-sized
socks. You'll need to use your row gauge and your toe-decrease plan to
figure out when to start toe decreases if your sock is very large or
very small.

Happy knitting!
--jp
jpa@agora.rdrop.com
---
This pattern downloaded from Wool Works: the online knitting compendium
http://www.woolworks.org/