

Standard stitch type

classification guide
 Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

Stitch type 101

Face side Under side

Approximate Seam length : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5

This type of stitch is formed with one thread introduced from one side of the material only.
Single thread chainstitch’s are often used for temporary stitching (i.e. basting) or for blind stitching.
Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.

Stitch type 103

Under side

Approximate Seam length : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 4.5

This type of stitch is formed with one thread and a curved needle which passes from left to
right, entering and exiting from the same side of the material carrying a needle thread which is
intercepted by a blind looper.
The thread interloops with itself on the top surface.
Particular care is required to prevent runback from the last stitch.

Stitch type 209

This type of stitch is formed with one thread. It is a machine made version of traditional hand
stitching sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch.

Stitch type 301

B
Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 2.5

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B).
A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B).
Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of
the material or materials being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle
to bobbin thread.
 Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

Stitch type 304

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5.5

The 304 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Lockstitch.

To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves laterally as the material is fed.
This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one bobbin thread (B).
A loop of thread (A) is passed through the material and interlaced with thread (B).
Thread (A) is then pulled back so that the interlacing is midway between surfaces of the material
or materials being sewn. Ideally, this stitch should have a 1 : 1 ratio of needle to bobbin thread.
A

Stitch type 401

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 5.5 Face side Under side

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper thread (B).
Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of
thread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the bottom ply of the material
being sewn.

Stitch type 404

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 7 Face side Under side

The 404 stitch formation is commonly referred to as the Zig-Zag Chainstitch.

Its formation is similar to the 401stitch. To produce the zig-zag appearance, the needle bar moves
laterally as the material is fed. This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A)
and one looper thread (B). Loops of thread (A) are passed through the material and interlaced and
interlooped with loops of thread (B). These interloopings are drawn up against the underside of the
bottom ply of the material being sewn.
 Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A A1

Stitch type 406

B
Face side Under side

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 15.5

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: two needle threads (A & A1) and one looper thread (B).
Loops of the needle threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops
of thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.

A
A1
A2

Stitch type 407

B
Face side Under side

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20

This type of stitch is formed with fourthreads: three needle threads (A, A1 & A2) and one looper thread (B).
Loops of the needle threads (A, A1 & A2) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops
of thread (B). These interloopings are then drawn against the underside of the material being sewn.

A C
A1

Stitch type 408

B

B1

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 17 Face side Under side

This type of stitch is formed using five threads; two needle threads (A & A1), two looper threads (B & B1) and one
Top covering thread (C). This stitch is two rows of 401 two thread chainstitch with a top covering thread laid on the
upper surface of the material being sewn.
Loops of the threads (A & A1) are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of
threads (B & B1). The top covering thread (C) is laid between and around the needle threads on the surface of
the material The interloopings of the neeedle and looper threads are drawn up against the underside of the bottom
ply of the material being sewn.
 Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification
A

Stitch type 503

B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 10.5

This type of stitch is formed with two threads: one needle thread (A) and one looper
thread (B). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and brought to the edge where they
are interlooped with thread (B). The loops of thread (B) are extended from this interlooping to the point of needle
penetration of the next stitch and there are interlooped with thread (A).
A

C
Stitch type 504

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 14

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and one
upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and
interlooped with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material.
The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upper
looper thread (C).
Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch
and there, they are interlooped with thread (A).
A

C
Stitch type 505
B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 16.0

This type of stitch is formed with three threads: one needle thread (A), one lower looper thread (B), and one upper
looper thread (C). Loops of the needle thread (A) are passed through the material and interlooped with loops of
thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material.
The loops of thread (B) are extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of the upper
looper thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the
next stitch and there, they are interlooped with thread (A).
Stitch type 505 is very similar to stitch type 504. The main difference is that in stitch type 505 the lower looper thread
(B) Is tighter and the needle thread (A) is looser than in stitch type 504. Stitch type 505 is a three thread version of
stitch type 503.
 Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification
A
A1

C
Stitch type 512 B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 15.5

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an
upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interlooped
with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. The loops of thread (B) are
extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are
extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped with
thread (A).

A
A1

C
Stitch type 514 B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20.0

This type of stitch is formed with four threads: two needle threads (A & A1) a lower looper thread (B) and an
upper looper thread (C). Loops of the needle threads (A & a1) are passed through the material and interlooped
with loops of thread (B) at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. The loops of thread (B) are
extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread (C). Loops of thread (C) are
extended from this interlooping point of the needle penetration of the next stitch and there, interlooped with
threads (A & A1).
A

A1

Stitch type 515

B1

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 17.5

This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401, using threads (A & B), a specified
distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 503 using threads (A1 & B1) on the edge of the
material.
 Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A1
B

Stitch type 516

B1
C

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20.0

This type of stitch is formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401 (A & B) a specified distance from the
edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 (A1 , B1 & C) on the edge of the material.

A
A1

Stitch type 602 B

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20.0 Face side Under side

This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads: two needle threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper thread (B); and one
cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A) and (A1) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the
surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B)
on the underside.

A
A1
A2

Stitch type 605

B
Face side Under side
Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 27.0

This type of stitch is formed with 5 threads: three needle threads (A), (A1) & (A2) ; one looper thread (B); and one
cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A), (A1) and (A2) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the
surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on
the underside.
 Coats Standard Stitch Type Classification

A1
A2
A3

Stitch type 607

B

Face side Under side

Approximate Seam : Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 32.0

This type of stitch is formed with six threads: four needle threads (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3); one looper thread
(B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A), (A1), (A2), and (A3) are passed through loops of thread (C)
already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with
loops of thread (B) on the underside.