s2000 Tech Faq 030107

S2KUK S2000 Technical FAQ
Day to Day Running

Running In
Oil
Fuel
Tyres
Punctures, Breakdowns & Towing
Vehicle Security
Automatic Boot Release
Maintenance
Honda Recommended Owner Maintenance
Neil_s2k Recommended Owner Maintenance!
Trickle Charging
Wipers
Battery
Servicing at Your Local Honda Dealer
Suspension Geometry Settings
Cleaning Your S2000
Changing Belts - part numbers
Common Problems
Spring Spacers
Seizing Suspension Geometry Adjustment Bolts
MAP Sensor
Auto Window Function Fails
Premature Wearing of Hood
Heavy Clutch
Clonking Suspension
Squeaking Dashboard
Puddle in Passenger Footwell
Rattling Roof Catches
054/055 Clutch
Alloy Wheels
Locking Wheel Nuts
Gearbox
Headlamp Washers inc...
Disabling the Headlamp Washers
Buying
Model Year Differences
UK PDI Check Sheet
Recalls
Warranties
Imports
Modifications and Upgrades

In Car Entertainment ("ICE") Upgrades
Hardwiring
Upgrading the Headlights
Removing the Honda and S2000 Badges
Cold Air Intakes & Air Box/Filter Modifications
Aftermarket Wheel Fitment Guide
Miscellaneous
Changing/Replacing Roof - Guide with pics
Garage Hardtop Hoist
Hardtop Fitting Kit Details
Hardtop Fitting Instructions
Hardtop Stand Instructions
Removing Dash Trim
Changing the Brake Pads
Turning off the Automatic A/C Demister
Driving on the Track
Miscellaneous Comments
ECU Fault Codes
Oilmansi's Guide to Oil
Technical Service Bulletins
Other S2ki Resources
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Day to Day Running
Running in your new S2000!

The running in period for the S2000 is 1000km before the use of VTEC. This means 650
miles before you rev over 6000rpm. It is then recommended that you go up by 1000rpm
for every 100 miles. Running in, isn't just the engine so it's important to vary rpms as
much as possible and change gears as often as possible. You're bedding in the whole
drivetrain/brakes/engine.
Oil usage can be quite high while the engine is running in, so check the oil with every tank
of fuel.
Oil
Stay mineral until 6k or first service, run in oil should be 10W30 (preferred) or 10W40
(more readily available and perfectly acceptable). Halfords do 10W40 in an orange bottle
MAKE SURE YOU BUY MINERAL. Synth up (if you desire) after that. If any engine work (or
early servicing) is done pre 6k, ensure additive molybednum is requested. This is a `run
in` additive that assists lubrication.
Ensure regular, REGULAR, checks are made to the oil levels. Each X on the dipstick is
approx 100ml so top up accordingly. When checking the dipstick, check both sides, choose
the lowest of the two sides and treat this as your current oil level. Always ensure oil levels
are checked once oil has drained into the pan. Always ensure car is not on an angle when
checking. Keep it horizontal.
Low oil can result in (above the obvious evil engine wear and subsequent seizures) a lack
of VTEC engagement. I don`t know this personally, I just know people have complained
about vtec issues and low oil has been their problem.
4.8l of oil is needed for a full oil change.
Diff Oil
Diff should be 75W90 GL-5
Gearbox Oil
Transmission 5W/80 GL-4
Oilmansi's comprehensive guide to oil can be found in the Miscellaneous section below.
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Fuel
The S2000 is designed to run on high octane fuel. This means that you should be filling up
with Super Unleaded or Shell Optimax. F20-C2's are not supposed to be run on 95 octane.
Whilst this may not destroy your engine, it could be grounds for Honda to refuse a
warranty repair, so please check your owners manual. The 02 model is apparently less
fussy about fuel, but runs better on higher octane.
Tyres
MY99 - MY03
Standard fit tyres on the S2000 are Bridgestone ES02JZ. Bridgestone developed these
tyres specifically for the S2000 and Honda recommend that only these tyres be used on
the car.
ES02JZs are not the same as other Bridgestone S02 tyres. If you are fitting any
tyre other then the ES02JZ please follow the size guide below
Here's what Bridgestone had to say about it...
QUOTE
Dear Rob,
Thank you for your email.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The correct Bridgestone fitments for the Honda S2000 are:
Front : 205/55 R16 89W S02 JZ - labelled on sidewall as ES02JZ (Bridgestone Product code
71474)
Rear : 225/50 R16 92W S02 JZ - labelled on sidewall as ES02JZ (Bridgestone Product code
71475)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The above products are the only Bridgestone fitments for the Honda S2000 and should not be
confused with the Porsche 968 fitments of:
Front : 205/55 ZR16 Z S02 JZ (N3)
Rear : 225/50 ZR16 Z S02 JZ (N3)
or
the discontinued replacement market 225/50 ZR16 S02JZ
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-3-
The Honda fitments are the only S02JZ which have a specified 'load rating' and a 'W' speed
rating.
I hope this helps.
Best Regards,
Andy Daniels
Bridgestone UK Ltd
Technical Administrator
The ES02JZs can take some time to warm up, but when they do they provide excellent
grip. Because of this they are not regarded amongst many owners as being ideal for the
UK, especially in the winter, and are apparently fairly tricky in the snow. The popular
alternative - GoodYear Eagle F1 is now no longer available in the correct rear size. Most
people looking for an alternative tyre with better wet weather characteristics are now using
Toyo Proxes
Tyre Sizes are as follows, please note that the rear Bridgestone ES02JZ has very narrow
rainchannels, and if you are changing to a different brand or model, it is recommend that
you adjust the size to the one below.
Bridgestone ES02JZ:
Front 205/55/89W R16
Rear 225/50/92W R16
Any other Tyre brand or model:

Front 205/55/ R16
Rear 245/45/ R16
Check they have the correct speed/load rating, as not all tyres in the 'other brand' sizes
come in high enough ratings.
Winter Tyres
If you encounter serious snow on a more than occasional basis, there is the option of
proper winter tyres.
The only ones known to have been tested on S2000s in the UK are Goodyear Eagle
Ultragrip GW3s. Few other winter tyres are available in the correct tyre size fitments for
the OEM 16" alloys, in the UK.
Sizes are as per the SO2s - rears are not available in greater than 225, but appear
adequate. Available from my-tyres.co.uk.
-4-
Ask the s2kjocks for more details.
Tyre Pressures
Tyre pressures are crucial to the handling of the car, and it is recommended that they are
checked regularly.
Bridgestone ES02JZ 32psi

Other tyres can be run up to 34psi or higher, to compensate for the softer tyre wall
MY04 -
The MY04 runs on Bridestone RE050s which are supposed to give improved wet weather
performance.
On the front E050MZ 215/45/R17 87W

On the Rear E050MZ 245/40/R17 91W
Your Bridgestone RE050s will also have a number similar to the following... TO250, KO301
Ignore these numbers, they are internal build codes that do not make any difference to the
tyre.
Punctures, Breakdowns and Towing
It is not recommended to use the space-saver wheel to replace a rear wheel. Apart from
the obvious handling difficulties this could produce - especially in the wet - it can also
cause damage to the LSD.
The space saver should be inflated to 60psi
Procedure for a rear puncture is:
1. remove front wheel

2. put on space saver
3. remove rear (flat) wheel
4. put front wheel on back axle
5. remove tool tray from boot and place in space left by the spare wheel
6. put damaged wheel in boot
If you are considering towing your S2000 - Don't. This can cause damage to the LSD.
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If you have broken down and are at the mercy of the AA/RAC etc insist the car is
transported on a flat-bed, which will handle the low ride height of the S2000.
Jacking Points
Here's a thread which shows where to find the cars Jacking Points
Vehicle Security
All New EU & UK S2000s are delivered with a Cat2 Immobiliser. Honda UK then fit their
own Cat1 alarm system when the PDI is done. Parallel import cars do not have alarm
systems fitted as standard and you will need to fit your own system.
Some of the early MY99 UK cars did not have alarms fitted.
Instructions for the standard Honda Cat1 alarm can be found here:
http://www.bassoctopus.com/s2kuk/S2000alarm.pdf
Automatic Boot Release
If you have the Honda UK alarm, you can open the boot remotely. When you unlock the
car using the key fob, the indicators will flash once. Within 3 seconds of the indicators
going out press the indented unlock button again. The boot should then open
automatically.
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Maintenance
Honda Recommended Owner Maintenance
The following is taken from the owners manual
With every tank of fuel

Check engine oil level – Make sure the engine is warm and the car is on a level surface.
Wait a few minutes after you have turned off the engine. Each X is 100ml
Check engine coolant level – The coolant is in a bottle at the front of the engine bay on the
right hand side. Check the coolant is between the MAX and MIN lines
Weekly
Air conditioning – check that the air-con works every week.
Monthly
Check brake and clutch fluid – The brake fluid is at the top of the engine bay on the right
hand side. The clutch fluid is on the right of the brake fluid.
Check tyre pressure – Check the tyre pressure when they are cold or have been left for 3
hours. The tyres can still be considered cold if you have driven less than 1 mile.
Check battery condition and terminals for corrosion
Check windscreen defroster and air conditioning. Also check the defroster vents.
Check all lights
3 – 6 Monthly
Grease the roof seals - Rub a thin film of Shin-Etsu Silicone grease (Honda Part number
08798-9013) onto the seals wherever they touch the convertible top or each other.
Trickle Chargers
If you're car is garaged and unused for more than a couple of weeks at a time, the
chances are that you will flatten your battery and the alarm will sound until the battery is
completely dead. This can be solved by using a trickle chargers. The CTEK range is used
by a number of people on this board.
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Wipers
***WARNING*** Do not open your bonnet with your windscreen wipers in the
raised position - you will scrach your car!
Just a quick note about these since someone was charged £46 for a set from a main dealer
Here are the sizes and the best prices found so far (Nov 2003)
Passenger Side: Bosch 20" around £7.50

Driver Side: Bosch 16s - £8.50 s is for the spoiler
Battery
If your dealer doesn't have a battery in stock and you're desperate for a battery. Halfords
stock them. However, the model number on their computer has the terminals the wrong
way round and will not fit the car. The actual battery you need is
Halfords own brand HB053
Servicing at your local Honda dealer
Apparently (according to the Honda Institute) For intermittent problems your

Honda dealer can now fit a "black box" to your car for a couple of days which will
log the problem
The technical knowledge of some local Honda dealers regarding the S2000 is so bad that it
can be frightening. We are in the process of putting together a good dealer guide Dealer
Satisfaction Survey If your dealer is not included you could do worse than ask the service
guys about a few of the subjects that have been covered in this faq.
One thing that has come up more than once, is cosmetic damage to cars, in particular the
exterior and red engine cover. On arrival to the dealership get the service manager to do a
vehicle state inspection. Any marks, scratches or dents are marked on a diagram of the
car. When this process is complete, the manager signs it and gives you a copy. Then when
you return, all you have to do is check the car against the "agreed" diagram.
Also beware dealers that have freshly washed the car when you pick it up (and it's still
wet) - notoriously difficult to spot bodywork scratches/marks!
Your S2000 should be serviced every 9000 miles or every twelve months if you haven't
covered that many miles.
-8-
The 9000 & 18000 services should be under £200 each, whilst the 27000 / 3yr service is
larger and will cost between £200 & £300. Please make sure your service book is stamped
by the dealer who carries out the service.
Here's the service schedule for those of you with JDMs or without a handbook. These
images will scale up to 1200 if you click on them.
Some owners also like to change their oil at 4500/6month intervals, in between the regular
scheduled service.
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Suspension Geometry settings

Not all garages can do the alignment - due to the height of the car.
If you have the car aligned, check the printout for the results. Also be aware that it's
normal for the alignment to drift a little so it's worth having it checked every so often.
MY99 - MY03
After customer complaints of excessive "tracking" (susceptibility(sp) to follow the wear

patterns in the road) by UK customers, Honda UK carried out dynamic testing and arrived
at an optimum specification to counter this effect of "tracking".
This is not an optimum performance setting, but only an optimum setting for poor UK
roads and drivers who let their cars drive them and not point the car where they want to
go.
When the S2000 had a facelift in 2004 the suspension pick up points in the chassis were
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modified to alter this characteristic and no longer required any modification to alter the
effects of "tracking".
1999-2003 S2000 set to standard settings for best performance or optimum settings if the
car is tracking.
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MY04 - MY05
2004 onwards S2000 set to standard, settings below
QUOTE
Wheel alignment from 2004 workshop manual

Item Measurement Qualification Standard or New Service Limit
Wheel alignment Camber

Front at inspection −0°30'±30'
Front at adjustment −0°30'±10'
Rear at inspection −1°30'±30'
Rear at adjustment −1°30'±10'
Caster
Front at inspection 6°00'±45'
Front at adjustment 6°00'±15'
Total toe-in
Front 0±2 mm (0±0.08 in.)
Rear 3±2 (0.12±0.08 in.)
Front wheel turning angle

Inside wheel 34°00'±2°
Outside wheel 29°00' (Reference)
Modified Cars
If the springs or shock absorbers are modified or car lowered factory settings do not apply
as the angle from suspension pickup to wheel centre will alter and no amount of
adjustment can return the original fine balance achieved by the factory.
Please Note: It is not unknown for the adjustment bolts to corrode which means new
suspension arms. Please check the Common Problems post
Cleaning your S2000
Cleaning the Pre MY02 plastic rear windscreen
The plastic rear window can get cloudy over time. The best product I have found to clean
this is the BMW Z1 and Z3 window cleaner. The part number is 81 22 9 407 665 and you
can order it from any BMW dealer for around £7.50. Here are the results on my car...
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There are a couple of other products which have been recommended by regular users on
the board - Renovo and Hindsight.
Cleaning the Soft Top
The soft top is made of vinyl. The general consensus is that it is best to wash the roof with
warm mildly soapy water and use a sealant such as Auto Glym vinyl protectant, or 303
sealant http://www.wwc.co.uk/acatalog/index.html?h...tml&CatalogBody
Using 303 Protectant
303 aerospace protectant is good stuff, but just because it comes in a spray bottle do not
be tempted for a moment to apply to the roof using this somewhat indiscriminate device -
if you get it on the paintwork it is a pain to get off!
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Unscrew the bottle and pour a little into a shallow dish, then use a small sponge to
carefully apply to the roof, avoiding contact with windows/paintwork. I find it best to lower
the windows and release the roof from the latches and open it just a tad - this way you
can do the roof edges more easily. Do not use too much - apply it sparingly otherwise the
next time it rains it will run off and look horrid on your paintwork!
Leave it to dry for 30 mins or so, and then gently rub the roof over with a damp microfibre
towel (reserve a towel just for this purpose) and you will be left with a nice matt black
roof.
Changing Belts - Part numbers

When it comes to auxiliary belts (rubber belts that go round the alternator, crank and air
con pulleys etc) there are two common types, the V-belt commonly known as the fan belt
and the Micro-V belt commonly known as a serpentine belt.
You can purchase these from a decent motor factor if you know how to measure them and
work out the generic part number. Unfortunately it’s not quite as easy as walking into the
shop and asking for a micro-v over the counter because rarer cars like the S2000 never
seem to be list or if they are they are often incorrect. Using the method below will ensure
you get the correct one first time.
V-Belts
Firstly measure the width in mm, then using a piece of string work out the complete
length.
I.e. 11mm wide & 1200mm long would give you the part number 11x1200 simple!
(some motor factors use the letters 'AV' as apposed to 'x' in the part number, i.e.
11AV1200)
You won’t always get an exact match, the width is important to remain the same but the
length has got a degree of tolerance dependant on the amount of adjustment on the auto
or manual tensioned. For example, you require the 11AV1200 above, in most cases an
11AV1195 or 11AV1209 would suffice.
Micro-V Belts
With a Micro-V you don’t measure the width you simply count the ribs (not the grooves)
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and then same technique as above with a piece of string calculate the length in mm.
i.e. 6 ribs and 2300mm long would generate the part number 6PK2300 or 6FPK2300
(some motor factors use the letters 'PK' and some use 'FPK')
Again with these belts there is a degree of tolerance so if you required 6PK2300 going
either way by a small amount of mm would suffice.
Note: The tolerance is pretty much guess work and down to the amount of movement on
the belt tensioned / manual adjuster. Most modern cars i.e. The S2000 use a sprung
loaded tensioned so your tolerance is minimal, possibly as low as 5mm either way
(6FPK2295 - 6FPK2305 using the hypothetic number above)
For the record:
The part numbers for the S2000 are as follows (Standard 99 to 2007 inc. JDM / UK
models)
With Air Con = 6FPK1470

With out Air Con = 6FPK1138
Although I have given the only two part numbers for the S2000 the above guide is useful if
for instance you add another auxiliary device, supercharger etc or for any piece of
machinery, lawn mower, car etc.
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Common Problems
Spring Spacers
To prevent the S2000 settling excessively on it's suspension during shipping, Honda insert
spacers in the suspension springs all round. They are supposed to be removed by the
dealership as part of the the pre-delivery prep. It's not unknown for this to get missed or
for not all of them to be removed.
This is the card that Honda UK leaves in the car for the dealers
If the suspension feels overly hard or the steering response is vague, then check to see if
you have any or all of the spacers left in!
Pic 1 shows a spacer in situ in a rear spring.
Pic 2 shows a spacer having been removed.
This is potentially highly dangerous and it's worth querying with your dealer at the outset
to see if this has been done!
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Seizing Suspension Geometry Adjustment Bolts
There has been cause for concern in the UK over the “seizing up” of these bushes that
comes to light whenever an alignment adjustment is done and you are told ‘sorry we cant
get the correct settings as you have an alignment adjusting bolt (s) seized’
What seizes are the alignment adjustment bolts in the sleeves that go through the actual
rubber bush in the bottom wishbones along with rear control arm bushes.
Alignment adjustment bolt & sleeve
You have in respect of the wishbones (2 wishbones - top & bottom - in each wheel arch)
front and rear.
The bottom wishbones have 2 large bushes that attach them to the sub frame.
Front bottom wishbone & alignment bolts
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Rear bottom wishbone & alignment bolts
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Front bottom wishbone mounting
Rear bottom wishbone mounting
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Front bottom wishbone alignment bolt
Rear bottom wishbone & alignment bolt
The top wishbone also has 2 bushes which mounts it to the car, the bolts used for the top
wishbones mountings are splined which reduces the tendency for them to seize but never
the less they can have a possible “seizing” problem but are not detected as easily as the
bottom bushes as they do not have any alignment adjustment properties, they simply
seize on the bolt going through them, making the top wishbone extremely hard to move
up and down in its natural movement.
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Front top wishbone & mountings
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Rear top wishbone & mountings
Splined bolt for top wishbones
Rear control arm bushes: Again these alignment adjustment bolts will seizes in the bush
that connects it to the rear sub frame and so causes the problem.
Rear control arm & alignment bolt
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If they are seized then there is really only 2 ways of getting them out:
1/ heat, which usually destroys the rubber part that surrounds the bolt/sleeve
2/ sawing them, which obviously destroys them
Reason why they seize: They are assembled with no grease what so ever and if the vehicle
is used all year round you are bound to get the ingress of water and corrosive salt (in the
winter) that’s the start of it. Obviously I am more directing these comments to vehicles
used in the UK with our damp weather and winter salting conditions.
Prevention; If your car is relatively new then I would suggest greasing these areas to
hopefully cut down the moisture from entering, with vehicles older than that its anybody’s
guess how far your corrosion problem will have progressed.
If you feel you want to have it stripped down, inspected and protected with thick grease, it
will be quite expensive as it is quite a labour intensive job and not forgetting the
“alignment” you will have to do afterwards.
(Thanks to Biker1 for this excellent write up.)
More Info Here and and here
MAP Sensor
Symptoms: Engine Stuttering, lack of VTEC engagement, and general intermittent engine
problems.
Solution: The MAP sensor is a small piece of plastic that sits on top of the engine and has
the words MAP Sensor printed on it. Normally a couple of light knocks with a rubber
hammer will sort any problems out. You can also remove it and blow on it to remove any
dirt build up.
Some MY04 and MY05 cars that have a problem with engine stuttering can get
the MAP sensor replaced free of charge. Please contact your dealer for details
Another problem with similar symptoms is this...
A 'flat' spot when starting it after it had been standing for 15-45 minutes after it had been
warmed up. It refused to respond to the accelerator, kangarooed, jerked and lost ALL
power. The solution to this was...
A corroded wire near the scuttle on the passenger side, which was replaced.
Auto Window Function Fails
When your battery is disconnected, the auto function on the drivers window can stop
working, this is because it then needs to be reset.
The car has to be started!!

1. push and and hold the window button down all the way until its completly down.
2. when its completely down, let go and push it down again and hold for 2 to 3 seconds.
then let go
3. now pull and roll the window up until its all the way up.
4. when its up let go
5. pull the button up again for 2 to 3 seconds.
(after step 2, he said you should be able to hear or feel the motor or something inside
reset.)
6. now then your autoscroll should work correctly.
Premature Wearing of Roof
A number of cars are suffering with premature roof wear. There is a guide below with
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some preventative measures.
It seems the arm that is doing the damage can only do so when the hood is right down
and it is pressed against the hood.
Operation of the hood and the movement of the car then causes it to rub against the hood
and wear through, possible bigger problem for those with hardtops.
My first idea was to add a piece of black gaffa tape at the wear point to protect the hood.
Then I made a sleeve to go around the 'elbow' of the frame that seems to cause the
problems:-
Added velcro hooks down the edge of a piece of black bass box cloth 12 x 14cm and
wrapped this around the elbow.
Looks OK and covers any rough edges
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Heavy Clutch
For over a year now my clutch has been getting stiffer and stiffer, but initially started as
being a slight sticking point when released. It got to the point where my left leg would
ache after a drive, especially when encountering traffic (every morning to work along the
M1 now).
I mentioned it a few times to the dealer over that period and got responses of
1) Will have to take the clutch out to have a look.
2) Clutch is on its way out and will probably need replacing.
3) Probably need to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder.
Having read in Under the Hood about sticky clutches various people have had Master,
Slave cylinders replaced and still have had the same problem. Others have sprayed WD40
into the clutch housing (not recommended) and problems have gone away for a while, but
always come back (WD40 doesn't have a high enough temperature range for the job and
also dissolves grease!!). And others have managed to re-grease the release fork, pivot and
bearing (contact point with release fork) through the release fork hole in the side of the
gearbox using a piece of wire.
With all this in mind and not wanting to pay the dealer to diagnose and hence cost more
than is required, I set about systematically solving the problem myself.
1) Replace and bleed clutch fluid. It was looking pretty black anyway, so needed doing just
to eliminate this as a problem. Still the clutch was stiff.
2) So next day down to dealer to get some high temp grease, and it just so happened that
night on one of the US forums someone had posted a service bulletin for 00-04 S2K,
Clutch Stiff and Squeeky (or something like that).
This basically says, remove slave cylinder and pull-out release fork. Grease release fork
pivot, release fork which comes into contact with release bearing and release fork to slave
cylinder connection point.
With grease in hand, slave cylinder removed in 5 mins, and a quick tug on release fork
(note: release fork
will not come out of gearbox!!). Using a torch and I went ....my god as dry as a bone, no
grease to be
seen anywhere. So using a piece of wire (from a coat hanger) I applied grease to the
relevent points and attempted to add some to the release bearing guide, but it was very
tight and you generally end up doing it blind. I done the best I could and put everything
back together and suddenly I had what felt like a brand new clutch. Smooth action when
applying the clutch and releasing, its amazing how such a small thing makes driving easier
and more pleasurable (yes! it was pissing me off).
So now I am and all it cost was £20 and my time (including clutch bleed).
The thing was I had the clutch replaced under warranty (54 clutch), so its not just a
problem straight from the
factory. Honda know its a problem, hence service bulletin, and my guess is their
installation instructions may have been wrong at dealers and factory. Either that or the
areas in question get too hot for the grease and it just
disappears over time.
Whatever you do don't let the dealer fool you into thinking it is something else before this
remedy is tried.
With ramps etc, it should only take 30 mins to complete..not a new Master Cylinder!!! The
other thing to mention is that due to the restricted access it is very difficult to ensure
everything gets greased, so at a later date
it may need to be done again.
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Clonking Suspension
Symptons: Suspension making anything between a clicking and a clonking noise at low
speeds on rough ground.
Solution: There can be many causes of this but the first and cheapest thing you should be
looking to do with this problem is retorquing the suspension bolts. My dealer did this for
free, and it's a good thing to rule out before playing with dampers etc
Squeaking Dashboard
Symptoms: A very annoying squeek that has been compared to having a mouse in the
dashboard!
Solution: Check and oil the bonnet catch and also check the rear view mirror.
Puddle in Passenger Footwell
There is a pipe connected to the bottom of the aircon unit in the passenger footwell that
takes the condensation out the car and drops it on the road. This can become disconnected
(probably kicked off) , takes 15 seconds to replace and problem solved.
Rattling Roof Catches

My S HAD the most annoying little clicking/rattling sound coming from the strikers/roof
latches. I understand that this is a common problem/fault with many s2k's out there.
Get yourselves down your local fish tank stockist and ask from some Fish tank tubing . . .
.it is a clear flexible 6-8mm diameter plastic tubing. I had to buy a whole metre . . . . but
who damn cares it only cost 49p. Basically you only need about 2cms of the stuff.
All you need to do is slip this over the small metal knobbly bit (technical jargon) that
protrudes from the striker (the part that is fixed to the roof) quite difficult to explain really,
but if you look at it, you will see where I mean. This simply prevents a metal to metal
contact, the small about of plastic is just enough to tighten up the seal.
PLEASE NOTE You can get both striker plates for around £50 from a dealer and fit them
yourself, saving almost £400. See this thread for details
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...0&#entry4635854
054/055 Clutch
The clutches on the earlier cars, numbered 054, can make quite a lot of noise when
decelerating in gear. These clutches can be replaced by the 055 clutch under warranty.
The part number for the 055 clutch is 22105PCX325
Alloy Wheels
Honda is aware of a corrosion problem with the wheels on the MY99 – MY01 They should
replace corroded wheels under warranty. the warranty for the wheels on earlier cars was
extended to 5 years. This is at Honda UKs discretion, so please talk to your dealer or HUK
directly.
Locking Wheel nuts
Make sure these are removed and greased every six months to avoid seizing
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Gearbox
It is not unheard of for S2000s to have gearbox problems, especially with the syncromesh
in the higher gears. Honda's fix for this is usually a new gearbox.
Annoying 04 Headlamp Washers
MY04 cars come with the fantastic feature that means the headlamp washers come on
when you clean the windscreen, causing the passengers to get a soaking!
There is a bulletin that covers the change from 03-04 model year.
The symptom it corrects is when you activate the screen washers, the headlamp washers
also work, irrespective of whether the headlamps are on or not.
Only certain chassis ranges are afftected and the fix is customer complaint only and only
for the duration of the manufacturers waranty.
If the sympton is one you are experiencing and your car is still under warranty, ask your
dealer to look up bulletin HUK 521 dated 02.12.04.
This bulletin does not apply for 05 model year on as they are already modified.
Disabling the Headlamp Washers
MY99 - MY01 & MY04 - MY05
On the MY99 - MY01 the headlamp washer button is in a ridculous place so that you can
soak yourself or your nicely washed car by leaning on the button
Honda solved this problem on the 02 model but in their wisdom re-introduced it on the 04
model in a different guise. When you press the windscreen washer on an 04 it also
activates your headlamp washers - brilliant
To disable the headlamp washers on all models follow these instructions (stolen from
Frenchie!)
Open up the bonnet. Look up by the windscreen on the passenger side; there's a black box
about 6" x 3" with its top just below the level of the wing, between the battery and the
wing.
Squeeze the ends of the box to free the clips and lift off the top. In the box, towards the
front, is a 20 amp and a 30 amp fuse
Pull the 30 amp fuse out and store it in the empty space at the opposite end of the box.
Replace the lid - job's done!
-28-
Buying
Model Year differences
There are a few differences between the MY99 - MY01 models and the MY02 - MY03. The
MY04 has further changes and a slight facelift. Note: The wind deflector became standard
from MY01 onwards.
MY02 differences
• Glass Rear Screen

• Cd player with tweeters built into the door
• Slightly restyled polished alloys
• Chrome rings around the rear lights and chrome front light surrounds
• A softer suspension setting which makes the car slightly less "pointy"
• Repositioned headlamp washer switch
Some like the suspension changes and others do not, it is probably best to try both cars if
you are in the market for a used S2000.
04 Differences
• New front and rear bumper design

• 17" wheels with different Bridgestone tyres
• New front and rear lights
• Facelifted interior
• Some suspension changes which include a slight ride height change and a little softening
of the rear end.
• Colour coded headlamp washers
• Factory fitted alarm
• New colours...
-29-
06 Differences
• New Colours - Deep Burgundy Metallic, Bermuda Blue Metallic

• New Interior Colour - Brown Leather
• Drive-By-Wire Throttle System. Ues a computer sensor to input throttle as opposed to
pulling on the throttle cable
• Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA) with traction control. A combination of computer controlled
throttle and individual wheel braking to control sudden changes in vehicle behavior. VSA
has a turn-off switch where the defrost button (moved) used to be.
• 20 lbs heavier
• Redesigned road wheels
• Redesigned steering wheel
• Brake Assist, which helps drivers apply full braking pressure in an accident avoidance
situation via the ABS actuator. Braking pressure is maintained momentarily after the
driver's initial braking action to help the driver stop promptly. It deactivates when the
driver releases pressure on the brake pedal
• Exterior temperature gauge
• New seats (interfaced to air bags for weight and position)
• 4 of the 8 speaker audio system are integrated roll bar speakers
• New intake manifold, fuel rail, intake support bracket, and injector cover
• Only one cam sensor
• New style map sensor
• IAT sensor has moved to the rubber intake tract
• Fuel line at engine is now a quick-release type
• Air pump, associated lines and and control valve, have been eliminated
• Fan switch in the radiator has been replaced with a second CTS, in turn the fans are now
computer controlled
-30-
• HO2S in the header is now referred to as an Air fuel ratio sensor

• New exhaust center section
UK PDI Check Sheet
Recalls
The following recalls should be done on MY99 – MY01
Roof tonneau cover Pre MY01? check with dealer / Honda UK

Seatbelt safety recall Pre MY01? check with dealer / Honda UK
Spark plugs replaced
Engine oil bolt replaced Honda should extend your engine warranty by one year after the
oil bolt recall
Recalls can be checked on the Honda UK website

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/cars/qasPUD.jsp
-31-
Warranties
The current Honda manufacturers warranty on a UK sourced S2000 is 3yrs up to 90000
miles.
The EU warranty for parallel import cars is 3yrs up to 60000 miles.
Some of the new cars available from certain car supermarkets are sourced from outside
the EU and therefore Honda UK do not have to honour the warranty. Please take this
into account when you buy a non-UK sourced car
The best way to find out the warranty situation on any non-UK sourced S2000 is to ring
Honda UK direct and quote them the chassis number. Their contact details can be found
here http://www.honda.co.uk/contact/contactForm...ontactType=CARS I have dealt with
Honda UK myself on two occasions and found them very helpful in these matters.
I would recommend contacting Honda UK about any S2000 you are looking at buying
unless you are 100% sure of it's history. Honda should then be able to tell you the car's
origin, warranty details, and recall information. If the chassis number comes up with No
Trace the chances are that this car has not had any recall work, does not have a
warranty, and is imported from a non-EU country. You have been warned!
Imports
EU Imports
RHD EU/Parallel imports are identical to UK cars with the following exceptions:
No Alarm fitted (04 model now comes with a factory fitted alarm)
No Locking Wheel Nuts
3yr 60000 mile warranty instead of 3yr/90000
You should register your EU import at your local Honda dealer, who can provide you with
an English warranty/Service book and inform you of any recalls.
Due to the strength of the pound over the last few years there are a lot of EU imports
around. They command a slightly lower price than UK cars. Parallel importing has become
less common since the start of 2003 because of the weakening pound.
-32-
JDM Imports
Japanese Domestic Market (JDM) Imports have a few more differences, such as cloth seats
as standard (leather is an option), but are essentially the same cars that are sold over
here.
You should be aware of the following points when buying a JDM S2000
Make sure its had its SVA before you accept it.
This means the speedo will read MPH and they should have fitted a rear fog lamp. They
will also have to get around the lack of headlamp washers.
At your cost you will have to :-
Have the speed limiter removed

A Cat 1 alarm fitted
Replace stereo
Check for recall completion (Spark plug one in particular)
Insurance costs, are about same but you must inform your insurer that your car is a JDM
import.
UK Main dealers seem happy to do service and recall work on these cars.
Further information relating to JDM imports can be found on this thread

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=131577
How Can I tell if my Car's an Import?
The key to telling the origin of the car is in the service book. Use it to check for the PDi
stamp of the supplying dealer. If your service book does not have a stamp, the chances
are that the book has been updated to English on registering in this country. I would now
phone Honda UK with the VIN to see if they can confirm the origin of the car.
Other signs of an import are...

JDM imports have a smaller square space for the rear number plate. And don't always
come with full leather seats.
EU imports are unlikely to have a Honda alarm. UK cars come with a Honda alarm and
should therefore have Honda badged alarm fobs.
Other differences can be found earlier in this section.
-33-
Modifications & Upgrades
In Car Entertainment ("ICE") Upgrades
Installation Guides
You can find a good guide to installing an Alpine head unit, along with the adapter, here
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=268241
Lucid's website provides nearly all the full installation guides you will need, it can be found
here http://lucidauto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv...ory_Code=guides
CD Changers
NOTE: If you are having a sound quality problem running a non-OEM changer to the Pre
MY02 Honda head unit, please read this thread
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169764
There are a few choices for positioning your changer...
under the passenger seat:

http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=171832
-34-
in the secret compartment:
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...threadid=101624
in another secret compartment:
Be careful of the fuel tank on this one though
-35-
A document detailing Honda's OEM changer installation instructions, including changer

cable routing can be found here... http://www.handa-
accessories.com/S2000/s2k...2kcdchanger.pdf
Which upgrades should come first is a debatable point, although replacing the front
speakers (particularly in the pre-02 model) is strongly recommended, as is the
replacement of the stock head unit with a more powerful unit.
speakers
The stock speakers in the S are not the cutting edge (particularly the pre-2002 model set
up which does not have the separate tweeters built into the door panels of the 2002 model
and onwards). Many owners upgrade the front speakers and head unit and some also
install speakers behind the seats.
Front speakers can be replaced with 6.25" or 6.5" alternatives.

A guide to replacing the front speakers can be found here
http://lucidauto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv...de=doorspeaks2k
Rear speakers can be fitted very cheaply with 4.5" or 5.25" units behind the seats. You will
need to cut into your plastic panels to do this or you can buy pre-cut rear panels from
http://lucidauto.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv...ategory_Code=SP There is no point in
spending a huge amount on these speakers as they are blocked by the seat. you should
also bear in mind that the seat will rub against the speakers if you have the seat fully
reclined and all the way back on it's rails.
-36-
Connecting rear speakers to the OEM wiring harness
QUOTE
Originally posted by RickFriend
I recently installed a set of Pioneer rear speakers in a set of homemade s-pods and
discovered a great little piece of info. After reading many posts on how to make the HU
connection, including soldering the wires to the pins, pushing the wires into the harness
and using the LUCID cable on MY00-03, I decided to examine the situation myself. Upon
inspection of the radio harness pin configuration I realized that I had seen that style pin
before. I am a computer technician and I realized that those pins are used on an ATX
power supply for computers. I proceeded to dig up an old burned up power supply and
removed four pins from the small connector that plugs into the floppy drive unit. These can
be removed using a jeweler's screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver into the small slot on the
top of the plug and push the locking tab down and pull the pin out. I clipped the wires
leaving enough to splice my speaker wires onto. These pins are a perfect fit for the HU
harness. Just bend the locking tab back out and insert into the radio harness. I used the
wiring diagram from McGuyver's website and made the connection. Everything is working
great without the hassle of the other methods. If you need to make this connection and
happen to have an old power supply laying around....give it a try.
Here is a (poor) diagram of the pin layout of the stock Honda system, taken from the back
of a MY00 Headunit
-37-
Using the Dash Audio Controls with upgraded Head Units
Alpine KCE-865B
For use with Alpine Head Units.
Cost is around £50
I and a few other users, found this unit to be a little "buggy" and occasionally when
pressing one button the HU would do something else. However others find the unit to work
without fault. You have been warned!
Countdown/InCarTec
This company makes a dash interface for the following Head Units: JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer,
Panasonic, Blaupunkt, Sony. I have not heard of any reported problems about this unit.
Cost is around £50
Details can be found here http://www.diccaldwell.co.uk/interface.htm
Modifry
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Modifry, who is a member of this board, sells this unit on the s2ki marketplace. The unit is
compatible with the following brands: Sony, Alpine, Pioneer, Panasonic, Eclipse, Blaupunkt,
Kenwood, JVC, Clarion and Nakamichi. This unit also benefits from some extra features,
such as MP3 folder control from the dash buttons, and an optional speed sensitive volume
control. I have not heard of any reported problems about this unit.
Cost is $90, plus shipping from the states, which means you may get caught for around
£10 tax.
Details can be found here http://www.modifry.com/products/dci/index.htm
Hardwiring
Here's some useful instructions for hardwiring radar detectors, ipaqs, etc
http://www.s2000.org/mods/radar/
If you just want the basic fuse box connections...
Option Connector E - live when the parking lights are on, through fuse 23, 10 amps
Option Connector D - live always, through fuse 42, 40 amps
Option Connector C - live when ignition on (and not cranking) through fuse 42, 40 amps.
-39-
All 3 of these connectors are recessed male 1/4" quick-connects, and yes, you should use
an in-line fuse, especially when connecting to D or C.
Upgrading the Headlights
Some owners find the S2000 headlights lack enough power for fast night driving.
More details regarding changing the S2000 Headlight bulbs can be found here
http://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...?threadid=38506
Removing the Honda and S2000 Badges
Removing the side Honda and/or S2000 badges is very easy. All you need is a hairdryer
and some waxed dental floss. Heat the badge with the hairdryer for a few minutes and
then use the dental floss to "saw" through the adhesive that holds the badge in place. The
badge is then easily removed. All you need to do then is remove the excess adhesive from
the bodywork. This is best done using some WD40 and some elbow grease!. Polish the
area with some wax for a great finish!.
Alternatively: boil a kettle of water, let it cool a little then pour slowly over the offending
badges. Leave them until just cool enough to touch and pull gently away from bodywork.
This leaves no glue residue behind and takes seconds to do.
If you want instructions on how to remove the front/rear badges then I'd recommend you
download instructions from somewhere like Rick's site as this can be a bit more
complicated and can also depend on the model year. www.ricks2k.com
Cold Air Intakes & Air Box/Filter Modifications
There are a variety of Cold Air Intakes (CAI) and other air filter modifications for the
S2000. Some increase horsepower, some just increase sound. I've included links to all the
common CAIs available
Injen Details
-40-
Mugen Details
Spoon Type CAI Details
PRM Details
PRM horsepower details for your insurance company can be found here
AUS and 4IGS2000 intakes are are no longer available so I haven't included them in here.
Air Box Removal
Removal of the airbox lid gives a lot more noise, accompanied by a slight loss in
performance. It's a trade off that a lot of people willingly make. The air intake on the S is
badly located over the radiator, and suffers from heat soak problems due to build up of
engine heat under the bonnet, particularly when the car is stationary in traffic. Removing
the airbox lid just allows a greater volume of the hot air to enter the filter.
The sound is awesome with the lid off, but some find it a little rough and agricultural. Give
-41-
it a shot... see what you think!
Removing Air Box Cover (No tools required)
Open the bonnet. The air box is the oblong black plastic box which sits in the front centre
of the engine bay just behind the radiator. You'll see the lid of the box is held on with
about half a dozen or so metal clips around the edges. . Release each clip in turn by
inserting your thumb or finger between the clip and the air box, and pulling outwards
(away from the box) They just spring loose. The clips are captive where they are so you
wont lose any. Chuck the lid in the boot. That's it, off you go and scare every living thing
in a one mile radius. Don't forget to close the bonnet!
To replace the lid simply align it in place and spring each clip back into place by pressing it
in towards the air box.
Changing the Air Filter (no tools required)
Remove the air box lid as described above. You can see the filter sitting in the air box. It's
basically a paper corrugated cone with plastic bits on each end. The wider end of the filter
is to the right (as you stand looking at the engine from the front). The rubber intake tube
which carries air to the engine is pushed onto a plastic collar at the wide end of the cone
and is just a push-on fit. Wriggle the rubber tubing until it comes free of the filter collar.
The only thing holding the filter in the box now is a plastic spigot at the other end of the
cone (to the left) but you can't see it yet because its underneath, and is a push fit into a
hole in the bottom of the air box. Pull up at the cone with a twisting action to release it
completely. Vacuum any dust or rubbish out of the inside of the air box.
To fit the new filter, turn it so that the spigot is at the bottom left, and push it firmly home
into it's receiving hole in the bottom of the air box. Now refit the rubber hose by wriggling
it onto the collar on the right hand side of the filter. Replace the air box lid and spring the
retaining clips back into place.
-42-
Aftermarket Wheel Fitment Guide
The guide in the link covers the following topics
1. How do I use this guide?

1.1 If you know what tire sizes you want
1.2 If you saw a wheel you love and want to see if it’ll fit
2. What is this offset business?
3. What causes rubbing?
4. What fits?
4.1 OEM Fitments
5. What is stagger and why do I need it?
Wheel Fitment Guide
An external resource guide to aftermarket wheels can be Found Here!
-43-
Miscellaneous
Changing/Replacing Roof - Guide with pics
An excellent step by step guide to replacing the roof with a Robbins roof can be Found
Here!
Garage Hardtop Hoist
Guide to making your own garage roof hoist Click Here!
Hardtop Fitting Kit Details
The hardtop will not fit on to an S2000 without a fitting kit. Please factor in the cost of a
fitting kit if you are buying a second hand hardtop.
Taken from this: http://www.handa-accessories.com/S2000/s2k2top.pdf - fitting

instructions & parts list, this is what is needed for a Hardtop fitting kit for an 02
- the left body side catcher

- the right body side catcher
- left side trim brush (optional, you can modify if you want - easy to get though)
- right side trim brush (optional, you can modify if you want - easy to get though)
- 2 front strikers (just to make sure that they're steel, & strong enough & they are cheaper
than the uk)
- rear defroster switch
- Sub-harness
- 4 bolts 6x18mm
- 4 bolts 8x20mm
- 2 Rubber spacers
- 4 cushion spacers
- rear defroster relay
- 4 cushion tapes
-44-
Hardtop Fitting Instructions
-45-
-46-
-47-
-48-
-49-
Hardtop Stand Instructions
-50-
-51-
Removing the dash trim

J8mie has some instructions that can be found here!
Changing the Brake Pads

Feeling brave? Here's a complete run down on saving some cash by changing the brake
pads yourself http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...threadid=123081
Turning off the automatic A/C demister

http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.p...hreadid=104165/
Driving on the Track
Tyres: Should be run at higher pressures to promote more even wear when used on track
- for S02s start at 34psi, maybe increase to 36psi. Note: higher pressures can make the
handling more skittish.
Make sure you do at least one slow cool down lap before coming off track to allow the
brakes to cool down.
-52-
Do not apply the handbrake immediately after a track session as this can warp the disks
and damage the pads. Leave in gear instead.
Misc Comments
Please make sure you get the key for the locking wheel nuts if you are purchasing a car.
Some alloy wheel fitters have keys to remove the nuts but it can take some time!
Periodically remove, WD40 and refit all wheel nuts to the correct torque settings to avoid
future seizures
A strange moaning sound from the rear of the car after a run on a hot day is quite usual.
It's just vapour pressure in the fuel tank.
A rattle from the passenger side is often the seatbelt buckle knocking on the door
ECU Fault Codes

Error codes:
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1

2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
-53-
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
71 random misfire cylinder 1
P0010 Variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) Oil Control Solenoid Valve Malfunction
P0011 Variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) System Malfunction
P0101 Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0103 Mass Airflow (MAF) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0111 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0112 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0113 Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit High Input
P0122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0123 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit High Input
P0125 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Slow Response
P0128 Cooling System Malfunction
P0131 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Circuit Low Voltage
P0132 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Circuit High Voltage
P0133 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) Circuit Slow Response
P0134 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) No Activity Detected
P0135 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0137 Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) Circuit Low Voltage
P0138 Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) Circuit High Voltage
P0139 Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) Slow Response
P0141 Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) (Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0143 Third Heated Oxygen Sensor (Third HO2S) (Sensor 3) Circuit Low Voltage
P0144 Third Heated Oxygen Sensor (Third HO2S) (Sensor 3) Circuit High Voltage
P0145 Third Heated Oxygen Sensor (Third HO2S) (Sensor 3) Circuit Slow Response
P0147 Third Heated Oxygen Sensor (Third HO2S) (Sensor 3) Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0153 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Circuit Slow Response
P0154 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction
P0155 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0157 Front Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S) (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
Circuit Low Voltage
Circuit High Voltage
Circuit Slow Response
Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0171 Fuel System Too Lean
P0172 Fuel System Too Rich
P0174 Front Bank (Bank 2) Fuel System Too Lean
P0175 Front Bank (Bank 2) Fuel System Too Rich
P0191 Fuel Pressure Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P0192 Fuel Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0193 Fuel Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0196 EOT Sensor/Range Performance Problem
P0197 EOT Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0198 EOT Sensor Circuit High Voltage
-54-
P0222 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage

P0223 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 2 Circuit High Voltage
P0300 Random Misfire
P0301 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire
P0325 Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0335 Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0336
P0339
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent Interruption
P0340 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor No Signal
P0341 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A Intermittent Interruption
P0341 Variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) Phase Gap
P0344 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P0365 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B No Signal
P0366
P0369
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B Intermittent Interruption
P0385 Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor B No Signal
P0389 Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor B Intermittent Interruption
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Insufficient Flow
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Control Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0410 Air Pump Circuit Malfunction
P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P0430 Front Bank Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0441 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Small Leak Detected
P0443 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0451 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P0452 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0453 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0456 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Very Small Leak Detected
P0457 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Leak Detected Fuel Fill Cap Loose/Off
P0461 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Range/Performance Problem
P0462 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Circuit Low Voltage
P0463 Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Circuit High Voltage
P0496 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System High Purge Flow
P0497 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Low Purge Flow
P0498 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Shut Valve Control Circuit Low Voltage
P0499 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Shut Valve Control Circuit High Voltage
P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Circuit Malfunction
P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Range/Peformance Problem
P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction
P0506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P0511 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0521 EOP Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P0522 EOP Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0523 EOP Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0560 ECM Back-up Circuit Low Voltage
P0563 Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Power Source Circuit
Unexpected Voltage
P0600 Multiplex Control System Troubleshooting
P0603 ECM/PCM Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
-55-
P0606 ECM/PCM Processor Malfunction

P0661 Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Valve Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0662 Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Valve Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0685 ECM/PCM Power Relay Control Circuit Malfunction
P0700 Automatic Transmission Control System
P0705 Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (Multiple Shift-position Input)
P0706 Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit
P0710
P0711
Problem in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0712 Short in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0713 Open in ATF Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0715
P0716
Problem in Mainshaft Speed Sensor Circuit
P0717 Problem in Mainshaft Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
P0718 Mainshaft Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure
P0720 Countershaft Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0720
P0721
Problem in Countershaft Speed Sensor Circuit
P0722 Problem in Countershaft Speed Sensor Circuit (No Signal Input)
P0723 Countershaft Speed Sensor Intermittent Failure
P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0730 Problem in Shift Control System
P0731 Problem in 1st Clutch and 1st Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0732 Problem in 2nd Clutch and 2nd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0733 Problem in 3rd Clutch and 3rd Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0734 Problem in 4th Clutch and 4th Clutch Hydraulic Clutch
P0735 Problem in 5th Clutch and 5th Clutch Hydraulic Circuit
P0740 Problem in Lock-up Control System
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Hydraulic Clutch Stuck OFF
P0743 Problem in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit
P0745 Problem in Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0746 A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
P0747 A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
P0748 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0750 Problem in Hydraulic Control System of Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0751 Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
P0752 Shift Solenoid Valve A Stuck ON
P0753 Problem in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0756 Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF
P0757 Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
P0758 Problem in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P0761 Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
P0762 Shift Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON
P0763 Problem in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0771 Shift Solenoid Valve E Stuck OFF
P0773 Problem in Shift Solenoid Valve E Circuit
P0775 Problem in the Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
Circuit
P0776 A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck OFF
P0777 A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
P0778 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P0780 Problem in Shift Control System
P0795 Problem in Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0796 A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
P0797 A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Stuck ON
P0798 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Ciruit
P0812 Open in Transmission Range Switch ATP RVS Switch Circuit
-56-
P0842 Short in 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Clutch, or 2nd Clutch Transmission
Fluid Pressure Switch (Clutch) Stuck ON
P0843 Open in 2nd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 2nd Clutch Transmission
Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck OFF
P0845 Problem in 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch Circuit
P0847 Short in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission
Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck ON
P0848 Open in 3rd Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 3rd Clutch Transmission
P0872 Short in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission
Fluid Pressure Switch Stuck ON
P0873 Open in 4th Clutch Transmission Fluid Pressure Switch Circuit, or 4th Clutch Transmission
P0962 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0963 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A
P0967 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve B
P0970 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0971 Problem in A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C
P0973 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0974 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve A Circuit
P0976 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P0977 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P0979 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0980 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve C Circuit
P0982 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve D Circuit
P0983 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve D Circuit
P0985 Short in Shift Solenoid Valve E Circuit
P0986 Open in Shift Solenoid Valve E Circuit
P1020 Valve Pause System Stuck Off
P1021 Valve Pause System Stuck On
P1025 Valve Pause System Sticking Off
P1026 Valve Pause System Sticking On
P1077 Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) System Malfunction (Low rpm)
P1078 Intake Mainfold Runner Control (IMRC) System Malfunction (High rpm)
P1106 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P1107 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P1108 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P1121 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Lower Than Expected
P1122 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Higher Than Expected
P1128 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Lower Than Expected
P1129 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Higher Than Expected
P1130 Demand for Changing Both Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Secondary HO2S)
(Sensor 2) and Third Heated Oxygen Sensor (Third HO2S) (Sensor 3)
P1149 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem
P1149 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (Sensor 1) Circuit Lean Range
P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS Line High Voltage
P1157 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Circuit High Voltage
P1158 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS- Terminal Low Voltage
P1159 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS+ Terminal Low Voltage
P1162 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Slow Response
P1163 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Slow Response
P1163 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (Sensor 1) Slow Response
P1164 Air/Fuel Ratio (AF) Sensor (Sensor 1) Circuit Range/Performance
P1165 Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor (Sensor 1) Circuit Range/Performance
P1166 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Electrical Problem
P1166 Heated Oxgen Sensor Sensor1 (Primary HO2S) Heater Circuit Malfunction
-57-
P1167 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Heater System Malfunction

P1167 Heated Oxygen Sensor Sensor1 (Primary LAF HO2S) Heater System Malfunction
P1168 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) LABEL Low Voltage
P1169 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) LABEL High Voltage
P1182 Fuel Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P1183 Fuel Temperature Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P1253
P1259
VTEC System Malfunction
P1297 Electric Load Detector (ELD) Circuit Low Voltage
P1298 Electric Load Detector (ELD) Circuit High Voltage
P1300 Random Misfire
P1324 Knock Sensor Power Source Circuit Low Voltage
P1336 Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1337 Engine Speed (RPM) Fluctuation Sensor No Signal
P1355 Front Ignition Coil Power Circuit Malfunction
P1359 Crankshaft Position (CKP)/Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1361 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A (Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor) Intermittent Interruption
P1361 Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1362 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A (Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor) No Signal
P1362 Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor No Signal
P1366 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B (Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor) Intermittent Interruption
P1366 Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor 2 Intermittent Interruption
P1367 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor B (Top Dead Center (TDC) Sensor) No Signal
P1367 Top Dear Center (TDC) Sensor 2 No Signal
P1381 Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor Intermittent Interruption
P1382 Cylinder Position (CYP) Sensor No Signal
P1410 Air Pump Malfunction
P1415 Air Pump Electric Current Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P1416 Air Pump Electric Current Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P1420 Nox Adsorptive Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold
P1438 Motor Drive Module (MDM) Overheating Signal Circuit
P1438 Motor Drive Module (MDM) Overheating
P1439 Motor Drive Module (MDM) Short Circuit Sensor Problem
P1439 Motor Drive Module (MDM) Short Circuit
P1440 IMA System Problem
P1445 Bypass Control Problem
P1448
P1449
Battery Module Overheating
P1449 Battery Cell Overheating
P1449 Battery Module Individual Voltage Input Deviation
P1449 Battery Module Deterioration
P1449 Battery Module Deviation
P1454 Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1456 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Leakage (Fuel Tank System)
P1457 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Control System Leakage (EVAP Canister System)
P1459 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Purge Flow Switch Malfunction
P1491 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Insufficient Lift
P1486 Cooling System Malfunction
P1491 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Insufficient Lift
P1498 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P1505 Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Air Leakage
P1508
P1519
Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Circuit Malfunction
P1509 Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) Circuit Failure
P1522 Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P1523 Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P1524 Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Range/Performance Problem
-58-
P1541 Climate Control Unit Signal Circuit Low Voltage

P1542 Climate Control Unit Signal Circuit High Voltage
P1565 Motor Commutation Signal Problem
P1568 Battery Module Individual Voltage Input Problem
P1568 Battery Module Temperature Signal Circuit Problem
P1568 Battery Cell Temperature Signal Circuit Problem
P1572 Motor Drive Module (MDM) Temperature Signal Circuit Low Input
P1572 Motor Drive Module (MDM) Temperature Signal Circuit High Input
P1576 Motor Drive Module (MDM) Voltge Signal Circuit Low Input
P1577 High Voltage Detection Signal Circuit Problem
P1580 Battery Current Circuit Problem
P1581 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Current Signal Circuit Low Input
P1581 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Current Signal Circuit High Input
P1581 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Current Signal Circuit Problem
P1582 Motor Current U Phase Signal Circuit Low Input
P1582 Motor Current U Phase Signal Circuit High Input
P1583 Motor Current V Phase Signal Circuit Low Input
P1583 Motor Current V Phase Signal Circuit High Input
P1584 Motor Current W Phase Signal Circuit Low Input
P1584 Motor Current W Phase Signal Circuit High Input
P1585 Motor Current Signal Circuit Problem
P1586 Motor Power Inverter (MPI) Module Current Signal/Battery Current Signal Circuit Problem
P1607 Engine Control Module (ECM)/Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Internal Circuit Malfunction
P1630 Transmission Control Module
P1635 Battery Condition Monitor (BCM) Module Proble
P1639 MOTB Signal Circuit Malfunction
P1640 ACTTRQ Motor Torque Signal Circuit Low Input
P1641 ACTTRQ Motor Torque Signal Circuit High Input
P1642 QBATT Battery Signal Circuit Low Input
P1643 QBATT Battery Signal Circuit High Input
P1644 MOTFSA Signal Malfunction
P1645 MOTFSB Signal Malfunction
P1646 MOTSTB Signal Malfunction
P1647 Power Command Signal Circuit Low Input
P1647 Power Command Signal Circuit High Input
P1647 Engine Torque Signal Circuit Low Input
P1647 Engine Torque Signal Circuit High Input
P1647 Mode Signal Circuit 1 Low Input
P1647 Mode Signal Circuit 1 High Input
P1647 Mode Signal Circuit 2 Problem
P1647 Engine Speed Signal Circuit Problem
P1648 Battery Condition Monitor (BCM) Module Communication Signal Circuit Problem
P1648 Motor Control Module (MCM) Communication Signal Circuit Problem
P1655 CVT-FI TMA/TMB Signal Line Failure
P1656 Problem in PCM-toVTM-4 Control Unit Communications Circuit
P1660 A/T-FI Data Line Failure/TCM - ECM Halt
P1676
P1678
FPTDR Signal Line Failure
P1679 RSCD Signal Circuit Malfunction
P1681 A/T FI Signal A Cicuit Low Voltage
P1682 A/T FI Signal A Circuit High Voltage
P1683 Throttle Valve Default Position Spring Performance Problem
P1684 Throttle Valve Return Spring Performance Problem
P1686 A/T FI Signal B Circuit Low Voltage
P1687 A/T FI Signal B Circuit High Voltage
P1705 Short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit (More than one range position is on at the
same time)
P1706 Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit
P1709 Problem Transmission Gear Selection Switch Circuit
-59-
P1730 Problem in Shift Control System:

Shift Solenoid Valve A and D Stuck OFF
Shift Solenoid Valve B Stuck ON
Shift Valves A, B, and D Stuck
Shift Solenoid Valve E Stuck ON
Shift Valve E Stuck
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve A Stuck OFF
Shift Solenoid Valve B and C Stuck ON
Shift Valves B and C Stuck
Shift Solenoid Valve D Stuck ON
Shift Valve D Stuck
A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve C Stuck OFF
Shift Solenoid Valves B and C Stuck ON
Shift Valves B and C Stuck
P1738 Problem in 2nd Clutch Pressure Switch Circuit
P1739 Problem in 3rd Clutch Pressure Switch Circuit
P1740 Problem in 4th Clutch Pressure Switch Circuit
P1750 Mechanical Problem in Hydraulic Control System of A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid
Valve Assemblies A and B, or Problem in the Hydraulic Control System
P1751 Mechanical Problem in Hydraulic Control System of Shift Solenoid Valve B and A/T Clutch
Pressure Control Solenoid Valves A and B, or Problem in the Hydraulic Control System
P1753 Problem in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit
P1751
P1768
Problem in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve B Circuit
P1790 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1791 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Range/Performance Problem
P1792 Problem in Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit
P1793 Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor Circuit
P1870 Problem in CVT Speed Change Control Valve Assembly Circuit
P1873 Problem in CVT Pulley Pressure Control Valve Assembly Circuit
P1879 Problem in CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve Assembly Circuit
P1882 Problem in Inhibitor Solenoid Circuit
P1884 Secondary Gear Speed Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction
P1885 CVT Drive Pulley Speed Sensor Circuit
P1886 CVT Driven Pulley Speed Sensor Circuit
P1888 CVT Speed Sensor
P1889 Problem in CVT Speed Sensor 2 Circuit
P1890 Shift Control System
P1891 Problem in Start Clutch System
P1894 CVT Speed Change Control Valve Circuit
P1895 CVT Pulley Pressure Control Valve Circuit
P2101 Throttle Actuator System Malfunction
P2108 Throttle Actuator Control Module Problem
P2118 Throttle Actuator Current Range/Performance Problem
P2122 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1 (Throttle Position Sensor D) Circuit Low Voltage
P2123 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1 (Throttle Position Sensor D) Circuit High Voltage
P2127 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 2 (Throttle Position Sensor E) Circuit Low Voltage
P2128 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 2 (Throttle Position Sensor E) Circuit High Voltage
P2135 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1/2 Incorrect Voltage Correlation
P2138 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1/2 (Throttle Position Sensor D/E) Incorrect Voltage
Correlation
P2176 Throttle Actuator Control System Idle Position Not Learned
P2195 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
P2197 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Signal Stuck Lean
-60-
P2227 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem

P2228 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P2229 Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P2237 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) IP Line High Voltage
P2238 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS+ Line Low Voltage
P2238 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) IP Line Low Voltage
P2240 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) IP Line High Voltage
P2241 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) IP Line Low Voltage
P2243 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VCENT Line High Voltage
P2245 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VCENT Line Low Voltage
P2247 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VCENT Line High Voltage
P2249 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VCENT Line Low Voltage
P2251 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) VS Line High Voltage
P2252 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) AFS- Line Low Voltage
P2254 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VS Line High Voltage
P2255 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) VS Line Low Voltage
P2279 Intake Air System Leak
P2413 Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Range/Performance Problem
P2422 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Vent Shut Valve Close Malfunction
P2552 Throttle Actuator Control Module Relay Malfunction
P2627 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit Low Voltage
P2628 Rear Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit High Voltage
P2630 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit Low Voltage
P2631 Front Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Bank 2, Sensor 1) LABEL Circuit High Voltage
P2646 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit Low Voltage
P2647 VTEC Oil Pressure Switch Circuit High Voltage
P2648 VTEC Solenoid Valve Circuit Low Voltage
P2649 VTEC Solenoid Valve Circuit High Voltage
P2769 Short in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit
P2770 Open in Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve Circuit
P2A00 Air/Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor (Sensor 1) Range/Performance Problem
P2A03 Front A/F Sensor Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 1) Circuit Range/Performance Problem
U0073 FCAN Malfunction (Bus-off)
U0107 Lost Communication With Throttle Actuator Control Module
U0121 FCAN Malfunction (TCS-PCM)
U0155 FCAN Malfunction (Gauge Control Module-ECM/PCM)
-61-
Oilmansi's Guide to Oil
QUOTE
What’s written on your oil bottle and what does it mean.
This post may seem like going back to basics but I am constantly surprised by the amount
of people who do not know or understand what is written on a bottle of oil and therefore no
idea of what they are buying/using.
To be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic
information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does!
1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)
2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear
oils)
3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)
4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW503.00, BMW LL01
etc)
Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and I will explain
later what statements you should treat this with some scepticism
So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?
THE BASICS
All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would
not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is
important to know what the oils intended purpose is.
VISCOSITY
Most oils on the shelves today are “Multigrades”, which simply means that the oil falls into
2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)
Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a
thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.
In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for
that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low
temperature. The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start
performance.
The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100
degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again
the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc.
Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.
SPECIFICATIONS
Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of the oil and whether they
have met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out
of date.
There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API
(American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens
d’Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what
they mean is important.
-62-
API
This is the more basic as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories. S = Petrol and
C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel © specifications.
The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:
PETROL
SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.
SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%,
together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.
SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10%
together with variation on volatility limits
SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting
current emissions standards
SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and

wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared
to previous categories.
Note:
All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles
are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection
as the more up to date SL and SM specifications.
DIESEL
CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years,
uses single cylinder test engine only
CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits
and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines
CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston
deposits, uses low emission test engine
CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission
test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines
CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing,
intended for 2 stroke diesel engines
CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits,
wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests
CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of

soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to
include low and high sulphur fuels
CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where
EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 %
sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.
Note:
All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older
vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or
protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.
If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4
-63-
ACEA
This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of
the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS
(Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).
Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:
A1 Fuel economy petrol

A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
A3 High performance and/or extended drain
A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance
B1 Fuel economy diesel

B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
B3 High performance and/or extended drain
B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance
C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst
compatible.
C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst
compatible.
C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst
compatible, Higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.
Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.
Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.
APPROVALS
Many oils mention various OEM’s on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB
or BMW but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying a top oil because of this.
Oil Companies send their oils to OEM’s for approval however some older specs are easily
achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are
always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.
Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance
level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:
VW – 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00
Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils
MB – 229.1
Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils.
BMW – LL98
Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils.
FINALLY
Above is the most accurate guidance I can give without going into too much depth however
there is one final piece of advice regarding the labelling.
Certain statements are made that are meaningless and just marketing blurb, here are a
few to avoid!
Recommended for use where……………

May be used where the following specifications apply……………
Approved by………………………..(but with no qualification)
-64-
Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for)

Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)
Also be wary of statements like “synthetic blend” if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil
as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.
Like everything in life, you get what you pay for and the cheaper the oil the cheaper the
ingredients and lower the performance levels.
If you want further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us through our
website at www.opieoils.co.uk.
Technical Service Bulletins
Service Bulletins are issued by Honda to their dealer and service network to advise them of
technical issues and resolutions. Most of the service bulletins concern service and
maintenance proceedures, test equipment and so forth but some are related to specific
vehicle problems and resolutions.
-65-

s2000 Tech Faq 030107

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S2KUK S2000 Technical FAQ

Day to Day Running

Modifications and Upgrades

Day to Day Running

Running in your new S2000!

4.8l of oil is needed for a full oil change.

Here's what Bridgestone had to say about it...

The correct Bridgestone fitments for the Honda S2000 are:

Front : 205/55 ZR16 Z S02 JZ (N3)

Rear : 225/50 ZR16 Z S02 JZ (N3)

the discontinued replacement market 225/50 ZR16 S02JZ

I hope this helps.

Any other Tyre brand or model:

Ask the s2kjocks for more details.

Bridgestone ES02JZ 32psi

On the front E050MZ 215/45/R17 87W

Punctures, Breakdowns and Towing

The space saver should be inflated to 60psi

Procedure for a rear puncture is:

1. remove front wheel

Automatic Boot Release

Honda Recommended Owner Maintenance

The following is taken from the owners manual

With every tank of fuel

Check battery condition and terminals for corrosion

Check all lights

Passenger Side: Bosch 20" around £7.50

Halfords own brand HB053

Servicing at your local Honda dealer

Apparently (according to the Honda Institute) For intermittent problems your

Suspension Geometry settings

After customer complaints of excessive "tracking" (susceptibility(sp) to follow the wear

2004 onwards S2000 set to standard, settings below

Wheel alignment from 2004 workshop manual

Wheel alignment Camber

Front wheel turning angle

Cleaning your S2000

Cleaning the Pre MY02 plastic rear windscreen

Cleaning the Soft Top

Using 303 Protectant

Changing Belts - Part numbers

For the record:

With Air Con = 6FPK1470

Pic 1 shows a spacer in situ in a rear spring.

Pic 2 shows a spacer having been removed.

Seizing Suspension Geometry Adjustment Bolts

Alignment adjustment bolt & sleeve

Front bottom wishbone & alignment bolts

Rear bottom wishbone & alignment bolts

Front bottom wishbone mounting

Rear bottom wishbone mounting

Front bottom wishbone alignment bolt

Rear bottom wishbone & alignment bolt

Front top wishbone & mountings

Rear top wishbone & mountings

Splined bolt for top wishbones

Rear control arm & alignment bolt

(Thanks to Biker1 for this excellent write up.)

More Info Here and and here

Another problem with similar symptoms is this...

Auto Window Function Fails

The car has to be started!!