ACKWOLEGEMENT

We take this opportunity to express our deep sense of

gratitude towards all those individuals who provided a
helping hand to us in making this live project report.
We are greatly thankful to Brig. J.P.S Ahluwalia who
provided us placement in OCM India Limited for live
project. We are highly grateful to Vikram Mahaldhar from
Sales & marketing Deptt. for his valuable guidance,
constant encouragement, sincere co-operation and
unconditional help that he offered during the training
period.
We are also thankful to Mr. S.S Khera who helped us in
getting training in this prestigious organization and in
collecting data for this project report.
Lastly we would like to take this opportunity in
expressing us deep sense of respect to our parents to
whom we are indebted for their blessings and love.
TABLE OF CONTENT
 INTRODUCTION

PUNCH LINE: THE SECRET OF Style

OCM Company :- TagLine/AdLine/BaseLine :- Be Somebody

OCM, established over 80 years ago is one of the leading
worsted textile mills strategically located in Punjab, the centre of
prime North Indian market. A vertically integrated mill with an
annual capacity of 8.4 million meters, it has a product range from
fine pure wool suitings to polyester wool and various wool
blended combinations with silk, cashmere, mohair, camel hair, etc.
OCM is a well established and trusted brand with Pan India
presence and is particularly known for its exquisite range of
tweeds, jacketing and fancies. It is the first worsted textile mill in
India to get ISO: 9001 certification.

Since its inception in 1924 as a manufacturer of hand-knotted

carpets, OCM has come a long way to become one of the largest
worsted suiting producer, the first one to implement a customized
textile ERP solution.
A completely vertically integrated plant, OCM has in-house
production facilities to convert tops to finished fabrics through
dyeing, spinning, weaving and finishing using state-of-the-art
machinery. All the materials and processes pass through stringent
checks at every stage and help in delivering outstanding quality.

At present the company's capacity includes 34064 Spindles and

182 high speed shuttle less Looms thereby giving spinning
capacity of 12000 kgs yarn and weaving capacity of 25000 Mtrs
of fabric per day. The spinning preparatory is from NSC, France,
Spindles frpm Zinser, Germany, Autoconers from Schlhafhorst,
Germany, TFO's from Leewha, Korea and looms from Lindaeur
Dornier, Germany, Sulzer, Switzerland and Picanol, Belgium.
Apart from this, colour conth, UK and fabric gets final finish on
KD from Biella Shrunk, Rotary Press of Mario Crosta,Italy,
Continuous Decatising from Speretto Rimar, Italy, Superfinish
from M-Tec, Germany and Shearing machine from Xetma
Vollenweider, Switzerland.
OCM India Limited manufactures wool blended, poly wool,
polyester, woolen, and linen textiles and fabrics. It also provides
suits, safaris, ceremonials, uniforms, tweets and jackets, trousers,
and specialties, as well as shawls, blankets, and lohis. The
company exports its products in Europe, the United States, and
Asia. OCM India Limited was formerly known as The East India
Carpet Co. Ltd. and changed its name in January 1989. The
company was founded in 1924 and is headquartered in New Delhi,
India. OCM India Limited operates as a former subsidiary of
Digjam Ltd.
ORGANISATION CHART OF
OCM
PRODUCTION PLANNING N CONTROLING

DESIGING

DYEING HOUSE

NEW SPINING

POST SPINING

LOAM SHED OR WEAVING

MENDING

FINISHING

INSPECTION

WAREHOUSE

QC LABORTARY
 DESIGNING

Designing department acts as the heart and soul of the whole process
of fabric making. This department receives feedback from the market and
after analyzing various factors the designs are developed. There are mainly
two seasons i.e. Fall/Winter and Spring/Summer. New designs according to
the market trends are developed along with improving some of the old
designs. The procedure of designing is briefly explained here.

> Basic design / Pattern development

> Design pattern selection
> Master cards
> Feeler manufacturing
> Production plan
> MasterCard delivery
> Feedback

New shades are developed by HOD (Designing) in tune with the current
trends and count, blend & twist / inch are also decided by HOD.

Basic design development:

The inputs for this procedure are blend composition, twist, count &
shade. As per the end product required, the loom setting(ends/inch X
picks/inch X reed width in inches on loom) is decided. To establish a basic
design, feeler sample is made & after approval from sales, design pattern
are developed and finished accordingly.

Design Pattern Section:

The cut samples from blanket sample are shown to VP(Sales) &
HOD (Designing) and selected according to trend.

Master card :

Master cards of approved design are made. While preparing Master

cards, draft & peg plans are made according to design on a graph card.

Feeler manufacturing

For feeler manufacturing yarn requirement and yarns are taken from
store and if single yarn is available, it is made 1,2, or 3 ply according to the
requirement. If yarn is not available, arrangement for yarn manufacturing is
made and piece ticket is issued. After finishing, feelers are checked for fel
and finish and if rejected, it is kept separate and sold separately.
Production Plan:

The production plan is received from sales for regular ranges

according to market requirements and the whole process is made according
to this production plan.

Master card delivery :

The master card made is checked with the folder and duly signed by
HOD. After this the master card is sent to Q.C.Lab sends the master card to
PPC (Production Planning & Control).
 PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL

If designing can be considered as the heart & soul of the Mill, the
production planning & control dept acts as the nervous system of the Mill.
This deptt plans the production and issues the various plans to different
departments and also controls the whole production process.

This department works under the below given procedure.

> Estimation of raw material

> Design wise manufacturing plan
> Yarn Spinning Order
> Monitoring yarn stock/indents
> Issuing warp /weft piece tickets to weaving
> Monitoring fabric production
> Reports for sales plan Vs production

Estimation of raw material:

The tentative planning for winter and summer seasons is made on

the basis ol average weight per metre and basic blend composition for each
quality. The tentative raw material requirement is also made with 7 months
for winter and 5 months for summer.

Design wise manufacturing plan:

The plan is received for :

Civil from Sales
Export from export

The actual production plan is divided into months according to

monthly capacity and given targets.

Yarn Spinning order :

The master cards from Q.C. Lab helps in issuing indents to Spinning,
Recombing & Dye House. The process completion dates are put on the
indents, which helps the PPC to monitor the process.

Monitoring yarn stock/indents

The yarn stock and the position of indents is monitored carefully so

that the target dates can be achieved and no process go out of control.
Daily status of production is checked at various stages for this purpose.
Issue of warp/weft piece tickets to weaving:

The warp and weft piece tickets are issued to weaving which contains
the full plan to weave the fabric. The colour, pattern and design are
contained in the piece tickets and the operator of loom understands the
details and manufacture the fabric accordingly.

Monitoring fabric production :

The fabric production stage is monitored so that the target dates are
achieved in addition to the maintaining of quality and fool proof
production.

Reports for sales plan Vs production:

A fortnightly report is made which shows the production and sales

plan and thus shows the surplus or deficit production which helps in
controlling the production as well as planning for future.
 DYE HOUSE

The Dye House unit is a major operational unit in the company. The product
is given its proper and required shade in the Dye House. The raw wool
received as raw material is of white or natural colour and dye house dyes the
wool into the required shade according to the market demand and the
customer's order.

The detailed procedure followed at the Dye House is show in the

figure. Basically three types of products are dyed in Dye House.
These are :

> Top dyeing

> Yarn dyeing
> Fabric Piece dyeing

Top dyeing :

The tops are dyed and the below given procedure is followed :

 Material and Shade Checking :

The material i.e. the top is checked after dyeing and the shade is
matched. The sample dyeing is also done for dyeing and the results are
matched with the required shaded sample.

 Hydroextraction :

Hydroextraction is done by Spinning the dyed material at high speed

in a big cylindrical machine to dry the material as well as to do away with
the extra colour.

 Backwashing :

Backwashing is the process in which the dyed material is washed first

in soap solution, then in acid solution and then in oil. The material is then
dried under heat.

 Final Shade approval:

The shade of the dyed material is again checked and if found correct
the material is sent to recombing department for further processing.

Yarn dyeing:

The yarn in the shape of cones is dyed, the various stages in yarn
dyeing are as given below
  Shade checking:

The yarn is checked for the shade required with matching the shade
and if the shade is rejected the material is reprocessed.

 Hydroextractor:

The yarn is then processed in hydroextractor machines which extracts

the extra water colour from the yarn.

 R.F. Drying :

The yarn is dried in R.F. dryer machines which dries the yarn and
make them ready for spinning or further processing.

Fabric / Piece Dyeing :

Dye House also dyes fabric which requires specific shades. These
fabrics are woven as white fabric and dyed afterwards. This process is also
called piece dyeing. The various stages in this process are :

 Shade checking:

The shade is checked after dyeing the fabric and if found incorrect the
material is dyed again.

If the shade matches with the required shade, the material is sent to
hydroextractor machine.

 Hydroextractor:

Hydroextractor machine extracts the extra colour & water from the
dyed material. To Finishing : The dyed fabric is sent to Finishing Dept for
drying and checking of any defects. If found defective the fabric is sent back
to Dye House for reprocessing.
 NEW SPINNING

Spinning
Spinning may be defined as " A set of operations the textile fabric
must undergo to be converted into yarn."

PROCESS REQUIRED TO CONVERT WOOL FIBRE INTO YARN

The various stages in this process are listed below :

> BLENDING
> PRE-COMB GILLING
> GILLING
> POST-COMB GILLING
> PREPARATORY OR DRAWING
> SPINNING

These sections are briefly discussed

here :

 BLENDING:

A homogenous blend is necessary for best results. Thus, wool from

different bales of the same lot is mixed together to make a big blend. The
wool is spread over a certain area and an emulsion (made of 1 part of
batching oil and 18 to 20 parts of water) is sprayed over each layer of
wool.

 PRE-COMB GILLING :
The carded sliver contains some impurities which should be
removed before further processing. These impurities include :

The Procedure :
Slivers are fed at the back of the Gill box through which the slivers
enter the back rollers and after processing by the Gill box passes on to the
delivery can through front rollers. The front and the back rollers revolve at
different speeds, later being slow. This difference in speeds of two rollers
pull the sliver and thus the weight per unit length of the sliver is reduced
as required. This process is called Drafting.

 COMBING :

The sliver at this stage may contain neps, vegetable matter and short
or broken fibres. These faults are removed this stage.

The procedure :
A number of slivers are fed to the machine. These slivers pass
through various rollers which feeds the sliver into the combing section. In
the combing section, the sliver is passed through a comb, containing pins,
which in turn combs the sliver. The combed sliver passes through the
crimping unit to give crimp to the wool and at the end the sliver is collected
in a can through a coiler unit.

The main functions of combing operation are given below :

a) To remove the neps formed in the carding operation
b) To remove the vegetable matter.
c) To remove the short fibres of predetermined length as noil.

 POST COMB GILLING :

In this stage the recombed top sliver is given two gilling. The
purpose of two gilling is:

- To remove the wavy pattern of the combed sliver formed due to the
overlapping of the successive combed fibres.

- To even out the irregularities in weight per unit length of the sliver.
- To collect the sliver in the form of a ball. It is called wool top.

 SPINNING

The Spinning Section can be further classified into thre sections:

> Spinning frame or Ring frame
> Autoclave
> Autoconing

 Spinning Frame or Ring Frame :

The function of ring frame is to process the roving and produce the
desired count of yarn within the spinning process.

THE PROCESS :
The main stages in this section are listed below :

- DRAFTING
- TWISTING
- WINDING
- LIFTING & BUILDING
The output of spinning process is YARN.
 POST SPINNING

The Post Spinning Section can be divided into following stages :

> Assembly Winding

> Two-for-One Twisting
> Autoclave

 Assembly Winding :

Assembly winding is the process in which two single yarns are wound
together on to a parallel cheese.

The Process :

Two cheeses or cones of single yarn are placed in supply pegs and
yarn from both the cones or cheeses are wrapped round the cheese on the
cheese holder. If one end breaks or runs out the winding stops. This motion
prevents any single end being wound on to the cheese. When the end breaks
these are joined by splicing.

 Two-for-one Twister:
The function of this stage is to
 Twist the assembly wound yarn
 Wind the twisted yarn on to a cone or
cheese.

The process:

The T.F.O. twists the assembly wound yarn and winds the yarn on to
cheese or cone. In each revolution of the spindle. T.F.O. inserts two turns in
the yarn. This is how it is known as 'TWO FOR ONE' twister.

The yarn from supply package is passed through the spindle top. The
formation of balloon is prevented by balloon limiter. In this process one
full package is made out of one full assembly wound cheese and the end
breakage is negligible and hence the knots are negligible.

 Autoclave :

The yarn is steamed after twisting to set the twist and to avoid
snarling. This also improves the strength of the yarn. After steaming the yarn
is set for conditioning . At the end of this section each cone is checked
completely for any defects and the approved cones are stored in cone store.
 WEAVING
Weaving interlaces warp and weft yarns in a certain definite pattern to
form cloth, Weaving transforms the yarn into fabric on a loom which
interlaces two sets of threads i.e.

WARP : Which runs down the length of cloth.

WEFT : Which lies at right angles to the warp-crossing the fabric from
selvedge to selvedge.

The five basic functions which a loom has to perform to weave the cloth
are listed below :-

Shedding;

The warp threads which runs down the length of the cloth are to be
set to make way for the weft thread to pass in between them. The warp
threads are separated vertically and the way for weft is made. This vertical
separation of warp is known as shedding.

Picking :

This is the process of giving the shuttle (or rapier or projectile with
weft) the propelled motion across the race plate through the separated warp
is known as shedding.

Beating Up:

The weft yarn inserted in warp threads need to be pushed on the cloth
side before the next weft yarn is inserted. This pushing of the weft yarn into
the 'fell' of the cloth by means of Reed mounted on the oscillating sley is
called beating up.

Taking Up :

The weaved fabric is wound on the cloth beam on the other side of
the machine and this winding is known as taking up. The rate of taking up
controls the number of picks of weft threads per inch.

Thus, the fabric is manufactured on the looms and sent to Greasy

Perch for checking of defects.
 MENDING

This section is very important as this section corrects any kind of defects in
the fabric. No machine is used for Mending. The fabric from Greasy Perch is
checked on the perches and the defects are removed. The fabric is again
checked on the perches by the Inspectors after Mending and the approved
fabric is sent to Finishing.

The main imperfections are repaired by either Picking or Burling.

PICKING :

Picking is the process in which all kemps, straws, heir etc. are
removed from the surface by picking.

BURLING:

This process consists of removing all the slubs etc. by following the
below given procedure :

 Opening the knot

 Pushing through to the back of the cloth any irregularities,
which appear on the face, so that all this is cleared as
possible.
 FINISHING

The fabric before going to the Warehouse needs Finishing and

Inspection and these two processes are very important for the fabric. The
Finishing operation can be divided into WET and DRY Finishing. The
various Finishing operations are given below :-

 Scouring :

Scouring is the process of thoroughly cleaning the fabric and making

it free of all greasy/oil particle for the subsequent operation of milling. The
cloth is passed through scouring machine in an endless band which dips into
a scouring liquor. A pair of nipping roller squeezes out the surplus suds and
liquor from the cloth.
 Milling or Fulling ;
This process transforms the cloth into a well-interlaced and tense felty
mass by friction, heat and moisture. Milling machine comprises with
receptacle for the cloth, heavy milling rollers to mill up the cloth in width
and a funnel or box which can be weighed to mill up the cloth in length.
 Drying or Stentering :
This machine embody the means of applying finish to woven fabrics
without ill effects on the handle or colour variable. Speed driving allows the
fabric to run through various part of the machine at requisite speed to give
the desired results. Various arrangements of fans for circulating air over
steam heated pipes are provided to show this warm air through the cloth,
moist and finally exhausting to atmosphere at a suitable point in the
machine. There are controls for speed and measuring instruments to record
the length of the fabric run through and its width.

 Steaming :
Blowing steaming through the fabric two or three minutes helps in
relaxation of strains and then a permanent set. This process of steaming is
done to improve the finishing of the fabric. The fabric is then allowed to
cool before further reprocessing.
 Crabbing :

This process has the same objects as of steaming, but hot water is
used instead of steam. The cloth is unwound and run at full width through
the trough containing hot water. Finally the cloth is passed to the hollow
steaming roll where on it is wound.
 INSPECTION
The fabric from finishing is inspected in this section before
delivering it to the Warehouse. The fabric is received by the Inspection
Department and checked on perches to inspect the fabric on both the sides
and putting flags on the defective portions. The Cloth Inspector puts two
types of flags (yellow & white colour thread) on the selvedge indicating the
defective portion of the fabric.

Yellow flag :

The yellow coloured flag indicates major defects like hole, loom
repair, yarn bar, lever missing, float bunch and patch etc. The yellow flag
indicates to cut the fabric at that portion.

White flag:

White flags indicates very minor defects like minor contamination,

Mending, Marks, Minor Stains, small broken pick and ends etc.

The pieces which require remending, are tied with white tags and
with relative details and sent to Mending Department. Not O.K. pieces
which require re-processing are tied with yellow tags with relative details
and sent to Finishing Section.

Cutting Instructions ;

The cutting instructions are received from the concerned Department.

Civil - from - Sales

Export - from - PPC

In case no cutting instructions, the fabric is sent to Warehouse

cutting it at yellow flags.

♦ The checker checks shade with the standard folder.

♦ After cutting the fabric into 'thans' each and every 'than' is weighed.
♦ Pieces which require assessment committee attention are taken out
from measuring and shown to the committee and treated according
to the decision of the committee.

Process Damage :
The fabric which got damaged in process and which is not
saleable in thans, suit lengths, coat lengths or pant lengths is shown to the
committee and a record is kept of them. These are sent to the Warehouse
with a damage stamp on them.
 WAREHOUSE
The material from Inspection Department is received in Warehouse
and a record is kept. The badly finished or wrong product is sent back to
Finishing for reprocessing with a note after recording the same in records.

The vouchers received are checked for any mistake for :

♦ Design
♦ Gradation
♦ Metres etc.by piece ticket.

Then the material is kept on racks according to the quality (after sorting for
quality)

New designs are placed at new places

All wool fabric and wool blended fabric are kept separately.

The Procedure :

The Warehouse Department receives advice from Sales Department

about despatch schedule and accordingly the material is collected from the
racks and shelves. According to the allocation slip of the 'Sales', the
Challan and proforma invoice are printed in three copies each.

After printing the challan, the material is checked with the challan
for :

♦ Quality
♦ Shade
♦ Length and weight

The verified proforma invoice and challan are sent to despatch

section, which attaches the lorry receipt with it and sends the documents to
invoicing section.

The Invoicing Section checks the whole set of documents and

completes some more formalities and sends the documents to the customer
or agent under advice from sales. The material is packed in packing section
with waterproof material and further tied strips. The material is then
delivered through the transport company advised by the Sales Department.
The various modes of transport in operation are :

♦ Road transport
♦ Railways
♦ Messenger delivery
♦ Post parcel
♦ Through courier
 ♦ Air cargo
Q.C. LABORATORY

The Quality Control laboratory acts as the main controller of quality

of the product. The raw material i.e. wool and the finished product i.e. fabric
both are tested for quality in Q.C.Lab. Stage wise quality of fabric are also
controlled by this department.

Some of the important tests which are carried out in Q.C.LAB are briefed
below :

 BLEND (Composition):

Chemical tests are used to find out the blend of the fabric. One ingredient is
dissolved in the chemicals and the residual is dried and wighed, which in
turn gives the percentage of ingredients. Thus, the blend or composition is
found by chemical testing.

 CROCK MEDIAN TEST (Bubbling test):

This test checks the staining effect of the product. The fabric to be tested is
sandwiched in between light shaded fabric in the machine and the staining
effect is tested.

 BREAKING STRENGTH:

The breaking strength of the fabric is tested in this test. The sample of the
fabric to be tested is fitted into the machine and the fabric is pulled from
both the ends and the breaking strength is noted by recording the point
where the fabric breaks. A minimum limits is fixed as per standards and
the results are matched to the fixed standard and report is prepared.

 SEAM SLIPPAGE :

In this test, the fabric is stitched at one end and the breaking strength of the
fabric is noted around that end. The machine used in the breaking strength
test is used in this test and the procedure is also almost same.

 COLOUR FASTNESS TO WASHING :

The colour fastness of the fabric is noted in this test and the sample is tested
for the extent it loses colour in the test.

 SHRINKAGE:

The shrinkage property is tested in this test. The fabric of different blends
are tested by different methods e.g. All wool is tested for shrinkage by
soaking it in cold water only.