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Table of Contents
step 1: Background . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
step 3: Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
step 7: Breadboarding: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
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License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)
step 1: Background
After seeing a video of such a machine I just had to have one of my own.
According to Wikipedia, Claude E. Shannon built the first “Ultimate Machine” based on an idea by Marvin Minsky.
The only design I could find uses a microcontroller but I consider this to be overkill (not knowing how to write code for micros may have had some influence on my humble
opinion...).
Additionally, the microcontroller version really doesn't shut itself off. It's circuit remains powered even when the switch is in the off position.
Knowing a little bit about servos and basic electronics, I felt sure that I could build the machine using a simple analog circuit. My main goal however was to have the
machine REALLY turn itself off.
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step 2: How Does It Work?
Inside the box is an RC servo powered by double A batteries. There is a toggle switch on the top of the box and a micro-switch inside.
The switches are positioned to be limit switches for the servo arm.
When idle, the circuitry is fully powered down. The toggle is “off”, and the micro-switch is being held in the off position by the servo arm.
Keep in mind the micro-switch is wired up so that it works completely opposite from a normal switch like you would find in a doorbell. By using the common pin and the
normally closed pin the micro switch is “OFF” when it’s button is being pushed.
When a person turns the toggle switch on, it provides power to the servo causing it to rotate the arm towards the toggle switch.
As the servo arm moves away from it's off position it releases the micro-switch providing the power needed for the servo to retract after the toggle switch is turned off.
When the toggle gets switched “OFF” it actually reverses the servo’s direction. The servo arm reverses direction returning to it's 'OFF' position. When the arm runs into
the micro-switch it stops.
The toggle switch needed is a Dual Pole, Dual Throw (DPDT) toggle switch. This type of switch is actually a pair of switches which operate together (Dual Pole) and both
are On-On (Dual Throw).
When I originally published this instructable I used a standard RC servo and a simple control circuit using a 555 timer. Compukidmike was quick to point out that a
continuous rotation servo could be used and it wouldn’t require ANY control circuitry.
Much simpler and a standard servo can be easily modified for continuous rotation.
So you have a choice. If you prefer to use a standard unmodified servo then step four shows the circuit needed.
Step five shows how to wire up a continuous rotation servo.
Image Notes
Image Notes 1. Servo
1. Micro switch supplying secondary power. 2. 555 timer circuit.
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2. Pusher attached to servo arm with a couple of screws. In this photo the servo is 3. toggle switch with R2 and R3.
in the 'OFF' position and is holding the micro switch off.
3. Wood 'standoff' for microswitch
step 3: Parts
Revised Parts List Feb 27, 2010
All the parts can be found at digikey.com and I’ve included the digikey part numbers.
Servo 900-00005-ND
Micro-Switch EG4544-ND
NOTES:
The servo I'm using is a very old standard Hitec HS-300. Not sure if they are still being sold. It's a standard size servo with a torque of 42.0 oz-in (3.02 kg-cm).
mrrigsby reports that a toggle switch from Radio Shack, catalog # 275-636 works.
He also pointed out that it's better to use "4 fresh alkaline batteries--with 4 rechargeables, I couldn't depend on having enough power to always throw the switch."
All of the schematics are basically the same circuit, just arranged differently.
Thanks, folks!
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step 5: Continuous Rotation Servo (no 555 timer needed!)
compukidmike posted this alternative to using a 555 timer:
" I would like to point out for those of you who don't want to build the electronics portion or don't have the parts, it can be completely eliminated. I modified the servo for
continuous rotation (by removing the internal stop) and then soldered the red and black wires directly to the motor inside the servo, bypassing the electronics inside. Now
it's just a motor with a gearbox. This allows you to use just the two switches to make the motor change direction and stop."
I have to say that this is a much easier build than the 555 circuit.
If you are using a Parallax continuous rotation servo there is no need to modify the gears, but you will have to modify the wiring to the servo's motor.
tydarby posted a great graphic showing how wire up a modified servo . The pins to use on the microswitch are the common (C) and normally closed (NC). Nothing
should be connected to the normally open (NO) pin.
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step 6: Dead Bug Circuit Construction:
The circuit has very few parts so instead of making a circuit board or using a prototyping board I just soldered most of the components directly to the appropriate pins on
the 555 chip.
This method of prototyping is called Dead Bug construction. As the name implies, the finished results aren't very pretty and often resemble a dead bug.
You’ll need a fine tipped soldering iron, steady hands and basic soldering skills.
Keep in mind that you don’t have to dead bug the circuit. I tested this circuit using a small breadboard that fit in the box with room to spare.
Image Notes
1. Toggle switch with R2, and R3.
2. Secondary power switch The battery (Vcc) is connected to the common pin
(C) and the normally closed pin (NC) going to pins 4 and 8 on the 555 timer IC.
3. 555 timer chip with R1, Diode, and caps. Know as Dead Bug protyping.
4. servo connector
5. I added a connector for the battery pack
6. Battery holder for 4 double A batteries.
Image Notes
1. R1 and the Diode across pins 6 and 7. Also connected to pin 7 is a wire
leading to the common of the toggle switch.
2. C1 across pins 1 and 2
3. wire connected to pin 3 leading to servo input
4. Purple wires are the switched power connected to pin 4. Pin 8 is connected to
pin 4 underneath the IC but you can see it in the photo. The red wire is
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supplying power to the servo.
5. C2 connecting pin 5 to pin 1.
6. Grounds connected to pin 1 go to battery and servo.
Image Notes
1. This wire goes to pin 7 on the 555.
2. R3 is connected to this pin
3. R2 (27K) is connected to this pin.
4. Red wire goes to battery pack's positve. Green wire goes to the microswitch
common pin (marked C on switch)
5. This pin supplies switched power to the circuit. One wire goes to pin 8 and 4
on the 555 chip. The other wire is connected to the microswitch normally closed
pin (marked NC on the switch). Also connected to this pin is R2 and R3.
6. Not used.
7. Please Note: this is a picture of the second machine that I've built. The color
coding of the wires is not the same as the other photos.
Image Notes
1. Vcc (Red wire connected to the positive of the battery pack) connected to the
common of one pole of the toggle switch.
2. Purple wire supplying power to circuit . Connected to the 555 (pins 4 and 8)
Also connected to this pin of the toggle are the resistors.
3. Yellow wire going to pin 7 of the 555 chip is connected to the common of one
of the poles of the toggle switch.
4. This pin isn't being used so I put a blob of glue on for insulation.
5. R3: 15K resistor.
6. R2 The circuit calls for a single 27K resistor but I didn't have that value on
hand so I used a 22K and a 5.6K in series. Also this is a great example of bad
soldering technique. I should touch that one up instead I'll wait till I have the
proper value R...
7. R2 connected bottom right pin of toggle
step 7: Breadboarding:
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Image Notes
1. To battery positive.
2. To battery negative
3. Normally closed (NC) pin
4. Common (C) pin
Image Notes
1. Servo input
2. Servo Ground
3. Servo Power
4. Ground Strip
5. Power strip
6. Switched power from switches
7. R1 220K across pins 6 and 7
8. D1 Diode Hard to make out but the line indicating polarity is going to pin 6
9. This goes to the toggle-switch common pin.
10. .1uF cap
11. Hard to see but the chip orientation notch is here.
12. Pins are 8 7 6 5 D 1 2 3 4
The box you use need only be big enough to fit a battery pack and servo. The one I used was about 5x4x3 inches.
I removed the latch that came with it. The lid was carefully cut down the middle and the hinges were move from the back to the side. A hole for the toggle switch was
drilled in the other part of the lid about an inch from the cut side.
Image Notes
1. Cut at a sleight angle so the lid wouldn't bind when opening.
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step 9: Aligning The Arm
I’m finding this part very difficult to explain, so if you’re having trouble understanding things, let me know…
If you are using a standard servo and 555 circuit this is how you align the arm. If you're using the modded servo you don't need this step (this is another reason why the
modded servo method is simpler).
First you want to align the arm so that you get as much rotation as possible. The servo should almost be at the end of it’s rotation when it switches the toggle.
The plastic actuator "arm" on the servo has a screw holding it in place. Remove the screw and pop the plastic arm off of the servo.
Power up the circuit but leave the arm off of the servo. Flip the toggle to the ‘on’ position so the servo “axle” rotates as far as it can.
Now take the batteries out of the circuit and flip the toggle to the "OFF" position. Now put the plastic actuator (with the wooden arm) back on the axle so the ‘hand’ is
touching the toggle switch.
Put the batteries back. The servo will return to it’s “off” position.
Now you can see if the arm is fully retracted back into the box. I had problems with the arm sticking up to high, not allowing the lid to fully close. Or having the arm hitting
the bottom of the box.
Once I had the arm switching the toggle, and retracting back into the box I mounted the micro-switch so that when the servo is in the "OFF" position it is holding the
microswitch down.
At this point you should have a working Useless Machine. Don't forget to put the screw back.
Image Notes
1. Micro-switch being held down by actuator. The machine is in it's "OFF" position for this photo
2. The arm was bottoming out on the bottom of the box so I had to sand down this part of the arm.
3. If you make the arm too big, it won't fully retract inside the box and the lid won't completely close.
4. Actuator arm
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 660 comments
This is amazingly funny, as a mechanical joke device. The other suggestions would work well, like the wait timers, and such. I believe that hand one with the
three second timer would be the best option for this, however.,...
.... this is your instructable, and you are showing us what YOU made. I like the construction, and simplicity that yours has, mostly because this will apply to a
larger group of people,. than just those that want a creepy finger to pop out.
Yours could be set out on a table, and used by adults during a coffee break, or tea time. It makes you think, and not just laugh. Kids like simple pleasures,
adults should at least attempt to challenge themselves....IMHO
When you turn it on, all it does it turn itself off again--it serves no other purpose and therefore qualifies as "useless".
It's comparable to the invitingly large red button that Arthur Dent found onboard the "Heart of Gold"
"I wonder what happens if I press this button..."
"I wouldn't!"
"Oh!"
"What happened?"
"A sign lit up saying, 'Please do not press this button again.' "
If you are building the 555 timer version, this wire is connected to pin 3 on the timer.
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DoofusOfTheDay says: Mar 28, 2010. 6:37 AM REPLY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fBbRWmuZdw
Build-a-Bear sells these little devices that you can record something, and playback via pushing a button on the front. It's meant to be put inside their teddy
bears, but found it was a cheap and easy way for me to add sound. I decided I didn't like the sound though. Seems like the simpler the better for this fun
little activity of building this.
It's a much more amusing effect with a second or 3 delay between the switching on and the switching off.
More research shows that I get about .1 volts when I read across ground and common on Switch2 when it is in the closed position. I'd imagine this value
should be zero. Am I wrong?
I would think you could take the guts from a talking greeting card (or something like that) and have the lid on the box switch it on.
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SaskView says: Mar 26, 2010. 5:55 AM REPLY
Yep!
EG4544-ND comes up on DigiKey, but it may be just on the Canadian Site. Can you confirm that this is the one you are searching for.
www.youtube.com/watch
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alphabattack says: Mar 13, 2010. 3:10 PM REPLY
I love the Idea! One thing that would be cool is if you made one that had two sides and it would flip it and go back and forth. Then you could have a switch
on the side that would turn it off.
goedevraag
Microswitch
rocky.digikey.com/weblib/Honeywell%20Sensing%20&%20Control/Web%20Photos/V7-2B17D8-048.jpg
I sent you a PM. Check out how the microswitch and how it is wired. Could be wired incorrectly.
Tyler
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russm says: Mar 6, 2010. 2:17 PM REPLY
Okay, I've built it using the simplified method and it works great. Everyone I show it to is delighted, and I myself can't stop playing with it. Now I want to add
sound. There are toys out there that have some kind of chip that cycles through a bunch of phrases , one each time you push a button or whatever. Some
of them are of the adult variety with rude words and phrases. So, two questions: one, where would you go to find a chip like that, and two, if you did find
one, could it be wired into this circuit? Failing that, could you add a buzzer or something that would give it more of a sense of life?
Part 2 Below.
Part 1
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Morriscow says: Feb 28, 2010. 6:58 PM REPLY
A.
W.
E.
S.
O.
M.
E.
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