c
c

 

NOTE: In cooperation with Consumers Union, this document will be reformatted
and adapted with graphics, color, etc., to make it more visually appealing.

Not Yet Developed: introductory text will be developed that explains that this is a
checklist that can be used when shopping for a home. While the checklist doesn͛t
cover every aspect of the ͛09 IECC, it addresses the requirements that are easiest
to understand and see in a home after construction is complete.

With the info below, and working with a home inspector, a home buyer can
determine whether a home likely meets the energy code. When builders have
met the code and paid attention to these important details, it͛s a good indication
of the quality of construction and it͛s also an indicator of whether or not the
home will be an energy hog. We will have materials for ͞next steps͟ that can be
used if it appears that the home does not meet code.

Also, we will have information (e.g., BCAP code status map) and a link (ICC
website) so that home buyers can determine whether the code has actually been
adopted in their state & community.

c
c
  
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Residential energy code* requirements:

A checklist for Professional Home Inspectors
*Based on the 2009 IECC

This checklist can be used in evaluating either new or existing homes. New homes
are more likely than older homes to meet at least some requirements of the
energy code. For existing homes, this checklist provides criteria for assessing
energy performance in lieu of utility data. Home inspectors can use this
information in combination with their professional judgment and familiarity with
local homes to offer advice regarding expected energy use.

r| Access hatches/doors for attics. These can be a major source of air leaks in homes,
causing utility bills to be high and creating uncomfortable drafts. Hatches/doors to the attic
 should be weather-stripped and insulated. They should be well- made so that they are airtight.
The insulation should be attachedso that it isn͛t damaged or become loose when the hatch or
door is used. The insulation rating (known as the R level) on the hatch/door insulation should be
visible and should be equivalent to the rating of insulation on the walls of the attic.{Ê

  : could link to online database, searchable by zip code, that tells what the insulation R-
rating requirement is for attics}

r| ërawl space insulation. Either the ceiling of the crawl space should be insulated or the
crawl space walls should be insulated. Insulation should be attached securely without gaps.
Likewise, it is also important that batt insulation not be compressed. Compressingfiberglass
batts reduces the insulation value significantly, almost eliminating it.

{Ê
  : could link to online database, searchable by zip code, that tells insulation R-
rating requirement for crawlspace walls or floor above}

*ook for sources of air leaks into and out of the home. All joints, seams and penetrations
between the inside and outside of the home should be sealed. Typically, caulk, spray foam or
weatherstripping is used to seal these air leaks. (Note: Air leaks are responsible for 1/3 or greater of
total energy loss.)
r| Check to see whether leaks have been sealed where phone lines, electrical lines, plumbing and
other services enter the house.
r| Check penetrations in the attic floor where pipes and ducts lead to therooms below to
determine whether they͛ve been sealed with foam, caulk, or other materials.
r| Check cabinets beneath the kitchen sink, kitchen island, bathroom sinks, etc., and see where
pipes lead to the floor below or out through walls. Are the spaces around the pipes filled with
caulk, foam or other materials to prevent airflow?
r| In the basement, check exterior walls with penetrations for pipes and wires. Also check where
pipes and ducts penetrate the basement ceiling to the floor above. Are they sealed tightly?
r| Check recessed lights ʹ especially those located directly below an unfinished attic. Trim should
be sealed to the ceiling with caulk.

Note: look for video/graphic of stack effect

For more information on the stack effect (we will probably chooseonly one):
http://www.pacificnorthwestinspections.com/index.php/resource-library/online-resources/914-
hvac/275-stackeffect
http://triadhomes.news-
record.com/content/2009/09/04/article/improve_indoor_air_quality_by_reducing_stack_effect

`as a blower door test done? The most effective and objective way to evaluate air leaks in a
home is to have a ͞blower door͟ test done. The cost of a blower door test ranges from $250-350. NOTE:
The residential energy code requires new or substantially remodeled homes to be tested with blower
doors, unless the air sealing in the home was inspected by a qualified professional(usually the local code
official).

r| Ask whether a blower door test was done and request a copyof the test results. For homes that
comply with code, tested air leakage must be less than ͞seven air changes per hour (ACH) when
 measured with a blower door at a pressure of 33.5psf (50Pa)͟. To standardize the test for
different homes and different parts of the country, the equipment used for the test is set ata
standardized pressure level (33.5psf or 50Pa). Very efficient homes may have leakage rates of
only .6-2.5 with a pressure of 50Pa. For more information on blower door testing visit:
http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/blower- door-basics

ëertificate requirement. Since 2006, in homes that comply with the residential energy code,
builders have been required to attach a permanent certificate on or in the electrical distribution panel
listing the equipment performance ratings and building materials valuesto demonstrate that the home
meets code requirements.

r| The certificate is an important means of verifying for the consumer that the home meetsenergy
code requirements. The certificate should be installed so that it doesn͛tobstruct visibility of the
circuit directory label, service disconnect label or other required labels.

Fireplaces: Generally speaking, fireplaces reduce the energy efficiency of a home.

r| The energy code requires that the doors of wood-burning fireplaces have gaskets.

http://www.woodheat.org/maintenance/maintenance.htm

Programmable Thermostat. According to the current code, homes with forced-air furnaces must
have programmable thermostats installed. Regardless of the heating and cooling system in a home,
programmable thermostats can save money. The average cost of a programmable thermostat ranges
from $30 to $50. (Note: programmable thermostats can generate annual energy savings of 10%.)

r| Does the home have a programmable thermostat?

Ductwork should be insulated and sealed. Unless the attic ceiling is insulated, when ducts
run through attic space, current codes require that they be insulated to a minimum of R-8.

r| Are the ducts in the attic insulated to R-8? If so, look at the label on the ductwork insulation ʹ
what R-level is it?

r| Is ductwork sealed properly? All ducts and air handlers should also be sealed withduct mastic.
NOTE: Duct tape is not appropriate for sealing ductwork, it deteriorates too quickly.

r| The current energy code requires that the entire duct system be tested for air tightness 

 
  . Leaky ducts are a major
source of energy loss, so this requirement is extremely valuable to homeowners in making
homeownership affordable, month after month. If there is ductwork in the crawlspace, attic, or
garage it͛s extremely important that it be tested for leaks in new homes. In existing homes, leaks
should be assumed and mastic should be applied along every seam and connection.
Energy Efficient *ighting. Lighting has an enormous impact on the energy use in homes.

r| The current energy code requires that builders put high efficiency light bulbs (such as compact
fluorescents) in at least 50 percent of the permanent lighting fixtures. Determine whether
compact fluorescents have been installed in permanent fixtures.

`indows ʹ New or Remodeled Homes. ë



Need Nils͛ review.

Energy code requirements for windows vary from one region of the country to another. Requirements
for windows include a U-factor and (sometimes) a solar heat gain coefficient. The U-factor measures
heat loss. U-factors generally range from 0.2 (very little heat loss) to 1.2 (high heat loss). Single-pane
windows are about 1.0 and double-panes are about 0.4. The solar heat gain coefficient measures how
well a window blocks heat from the sun. This is especially important in warm regions.

Windows come from manufacturers with stickers attached to the glass that document the ratings.

p| Ask to see the window stickers, window invoice, or other documentation that verifies
the U-factor and solar heat gain coefficient of the windows.

`indows ʹ Existing Homes, not Remodeled. ë



Ditto.

There are a number of factors that should be consideredin evaluating older windows. Energy
performance varies significantly based on the material that windows are made from and the condition
they are in.
-| Can you see daylight around the sides of the window frame or sash?
-| Are windows loose in their tracks; can you slip a piece of paper between the sash and frame
when they are closed and locked?
-| What are the windows made of? Aluminum is typically known as a poor insulator. Fiberglass,
wood, and vinyl do a better job, but much depends on the construction of the windows. The
best windows have insulation filling the frame and sash, but it͛s difficult to know what͛s inside
older windows.
-| Are windows single, double, or triple-paned? Note: storm windows installed over single-paned
windows can perform almost as well as some double-paned windows.