JACO Designs Plowere PrsToL +22/.31 Caliber Cap and Ball ‘This entire pamphlet Copyrighted In 1972 by JAC Designs © ‘This pamphlet contaizs all the information you vill need to construct the Poneer Pistol. Th pistol 1s 2 small cap and ball, muzzle loading pistol designed for use vith black powder. Study che Plana carefolly until you can easily pleture the parts and hov they work with each others The pistel is very simple and is highly recomended as your Firat gunemithing project. ‘The Ploneer Pistol te designed to be buile either as = .22 caliber rified bore or as a «31 caliber smooth bore pistol. This 49 accouplished by either using a .22 caliber rifled liner in the barrel block ar not as you desire. TE you construct the piston in .22 caliber, you can use .22 caliber air pistol pellets as the bullet. I you construct the pistol 31 caliber amooth bore, you can use standard 131 caliber lead balls available from sary muzzle loader supply houses. The pistol uses Ho. 11 Remington caps and FFIC black posder. Do not experiment vith other posders. Do not use modern smokeless powder or powder from cartridges, The pistol 4s perfectly safe co use with black powder only. if you put too nud black powder in the barrel, tt will aot burn and vill be biown cut the barcel, A drill press ia, he only pover tool you need. ‘Hand tools include a small flat 6 Inch file, 2 10 inch file, = eeall rae tail file, hacksav, small pliers, hamer, center punch and vise. A few drills and a 1/4 - 28 tap WAll be needed. The more tools You have, the easier it vill be to make the parts. Tf you build the pistol as instructed, you will have 4 completely aatiefactory plotel which you will enjoy using and displaying. Because JAG) has no control over the waterials you may usc, the workmanship,or possible use of the pistol, JAO) vill not asause any responsibility for these Ltens- Vo mot change the design of the pistol as the parts shows have been carefully proportioned to function properly. This pamphlet nay not be copied in whele or part without weitten consent vf JACO Desigas. 1 ~ MATERIAL ~ The materiel needed to nake this piatol 4s ell soft cold rolled steel except for the springs whieh must be misic vire. You will need a bar of steel 1-3/8 x 5 x 1/2 inch thick for the barrel block, a plate 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/4 for the hammer and trigger, and 4 strip of 1/8 x 1/2 x 1 for the frane. A snall piece of 1/16 x 1/2 x 7/8 for the rear aight and hanmer etop, a fow inches of 1/8 and 3/16 dia. rod and sone 1/16 dia. (16 gauge) nails will be needed, The hamer apring 12 .045 dia, music wire about 10 inches Iong and the trigger spring 1a .025 dia, music vire about 1 inch long. To begin construction, obtain the steel in the sizes specified and ead one eide of the steel with enery cloth. Use a red "Wagte Marker" penel and color the sanded aide of the steel. Use a sharp pointed seriber to draw the outline of the parts on the steel through the red coloring. You should able to see a sharp, bright Line outlining the parts. Do not destroy your plans by cutting out the parts, Make chin cardboard patterns and Erace around the patterns on the steel, Make your parte care- fully and plan each step before cutting, filing or drilling. 2-DARREL LINER, part 1 - Rifled’.22 caliber barrel Liners are available from many sources. Look in the classified’ ad section of popular gun aagazines and you will find then, Cenerally, che liner is 5/16 in. outeide dianeter and about 23 in. long. They are either soft soldered or epoxy bonded in place. When you receive your Miner, cut @ piece 3-1/2 4a. long and bevel one end to fit the bottom of the drilled hole in the barrel biock (part 10). SHEAR STGHT, part 2= Tale” CheI/T6-enteK "steer sheet andcur out apiece 1/2 x1 and bend 1 90°, 3/8 fron one'end, Pile to shape but leave the edge that will couch the hauer 4 little long, Color the side that touches the back of the barrel block. fut this part aside now until you get the barrel block (part 10) done, ‘otintesen, pare 9 ond TRIGOER, part 13 ~ Make these parts together because they are so similar. Arrange the hammor and trigger patterns on the 1/4 thick steel plate and scribe around then to give good share Lines. Center punch the location of the 1/8 dia. pivot holes in both the hamer and trigger and drill with a 1/8 dia. drill. Locate and drill a 5/16 dia. hole to make the radius below the cocking spur on the hammer, Saw out the parts close to the lines, but leave 4 little stock for filing to the line. Do Bot make the cocking notches in the hamer yet. Just make the big redius all the way around the bottoa of the hammer. The top of the trigger should be a cadius hose center te the canter of the 1/8 dias hole. File both parts close to the line and keep all eides nice and square. Use « tat tafled file to round off the top of the hammer and the froat of the trigger vhere your fingers will touch thes. Drill 9 1/32 dia, bole tn the crigger for the trigger epring. S-PLWT PINS, parts 4 and 5 - Take the 1/8 dia, rod, cut to pins 1/2 in. long and File the onde square. G-BARREL BLOCK, part 10 - Toke the 1/2 fa. thick plate and color one side red with “Hagte Marker” and wcribe-the Bartel block outline. Locate the two 1/8 dia. holes and the center ofa 3/8 dia. hele tegive the radiue under the barrel. Drill che 3/8 hole and sav the block to just outside the Lines, File the back face of the barrel block equare where the nipple (part 12) ts installed. Color end locate the center of the barrel 1/4 in, down fron the top of the barrel block on both ende and canter Purch these locations. The next operation requires care ard planning. Drill a 1/8 dia. hole sbout 1/2 deep in the nipple ené of me barrel block at the center punch location. Try to get access to Grill press 4€ st all possible. te de a difficult Job to rill che bartel bore right'on the center Lie. ‘he following method vill help you do tt righe the fret tive, Maka « block of wood at least 2 ‘im. ‘square about 6 in. long. Drill a 1/8 dia. hole 3 in, from one end aad 5/16 in. ftom one aide Of the Block, about 1-1/2 in, deep. Drive a 1/8 dis pin all the way in the hole ard cut it off with about 1/4 in. setcking out of the wood, Clamp this block in the drill prese with the 1/8 pla exactly centered under the drill chuck. The 1/8 hole you deiiled in the bartel block should Just slip og the 1/8 pin with the muzzle end up. Now vhen you driil the barrel block, the driil will Lise up exactly on the 1/8 dia. pin. Drill the barrel bore about 3 in deep vith a'1/4 dla, drill. nl the barrel bore to the site fequited to accept the «22 caldber liner (part 1). Driil toa depth that Anaves af Least 1/4 in. of metal for the aippie threads. Follow the Liner manufacturers recomentse tions for the correct hole stze. Drill a 1/4 dia. hole at the angle chown down cheough the barrel block and sav to the hole to provide the 1/¢ in. wide slot in the barrel block for the hammer and trigger. File the insides of the slot amoth and just a little wider than the thickness of the henner and trigger. Drill the two 1/€ dia. holes for the hammer and trigger pins (part 4 and 3). Drills 3/16 dia. hole through the barrel for tha €ront sight. Enlarge the 1/8 hole ae the wippie nd vite-m #3 driil (.213 ta.) and tap the threads vith a 1/428 tap. Be sure the tap in held aquare wich the barrel block during the tapping operation. Pile the corners of the barrel block at 43° angles to ake che barrel octagonal. Either soft solder or epoxy bond the liner, part 1, into the barrel blocks Tf you are making 4 .31 caliber snooth bore pistol you will need a 11/32 dia. dré1i (.343 dte.). The round balls sold for .31 caliber muzzle loaders measure about .323 dlaneter. After drilling the barrel block, you can smooth the inside with a wooden dovel wrapped with enery cloth mounted inthe dxi11 pres. Try fo get the barrel bore as smooth as you can, Lf you use blue denin material, vhich is about .014 thick, for the patches, you chould get « nice tight {it of the ball and patch in'the barrel. 7 = MIPPLE, part 12 ~ Tee nipple nay be either purchased ox you can make one. We recomend that you purchase one from & vell Inovn mussle loader supply house. They are hardened and the capa will fit Hight, Be aure to ask for the .250 ~ 28 thread and pistol sis nipple, Theac genereliy well for Less than $0 cents apiece. If you wint to nake your om, get a piece of 3/8 dia, deill red or use the shank of an old 3/9 drill. eat a piece about 1-1/7 in. long bright red ar weil at 19 black. Te should now be soft enough to file and drill, If'at all possible ise’ a Lathe to sake this part. The 1/4 ~ 28 threaded end must he st leet 1/4 in, Leng The flange 1s 340 dia and +040 thick. The square is 740 across the flats and .062 high. The nipple dianeter 42 -170)-171 and 198 ia. long. Siightly chanfer the nipple end to help etart the cap on the alpple. The flash hole ds 062 ddeneter. Deburr and heat brigit red and inmediately quench in vater. The nipple will nor be hard and you vill not be able to do any further cutting on it. 8 ~ FRAME, part 8 - Take the 1/8'x 1/2 strip material for the frame and file two notches about half vay through and 1-1/4 in. apart, “These notches are where you will bend the frane to make the tlet base. Hend the frame to natch the plane. Tein the endo to length and then file ten to {it tightly in th barre] block. If you color the inside of the frane, you can coribe the ‘of the barrel block on the ends of the frame. File to the lines, but go alow and keep trying ¢ dn the barrel bioeks 9 = ASSEMBLE FRAME AND BARREL ~ Place the frame 4 the barrel block, Locate and drill tree, 1/16 dia. holes completely through the barrel block sides and frame at the places indicated on the planes, Be Sure the holes go through the center of the 1/8 thick frase and do aot break out, Enlarge the 1/16 the ‘shape shown on the plans. The two ends of the spring should be on the dotted lines on the plans wien the epring to free. 14 ~ FRONT SIGHT, part 14 - Make the front sight out of 3/16 dia. rod and shape as you desire. Soft solder or epoxy in place, the sane as the liner. 15 - GRIPS, part 6 and 7 - Try to get 4 plece of walnut sbout 2x 8x 3/8. Cut the eripa a Little bigger than the size shown, Drill the left grip to fit « flat head wood screv,part 13, and screw the rough grips on the pistol. Shape to fir the pistol frane, Glue small blocis on the grips inside in the corners of the frane to help keep them in place. Sand the grips smooth and clear varnish. 16 ~ FINISHING THE PARTS - Disassenble the pistol and smooth all the parts with « fine file and 220 je a wooden block vith the paper #0 you don't round off the corners of the ‘A final vire brushing gives @ pleasing appearance. The pistol may be left white or 4t any be blued at thie tine. Use JAGO blueing isstructions for a staple, reliable gia blue Tike the old tinera uae. 17 = LOADING AND SHOOTING TIPS - You will need a ran rod about 3/16 dia. and 4 in. long, Make one from 4 steel rod and file notches in one ené to hold cleaning patches. Make a powder scoop from an empty +22 cal. long rifle case by soldering on a vire handle. One scoop is enough for the .22 caliber Yeroicn end three 1a enough for the +31 caliber version. To load the pistol, make eure that the Aipple is not plugged and that the barrel 4+ clear and dry. Lower the hammer down to the nipple. With the muzzle up, pour in the correct anount of power, Use ONLY FFFC black powder. Insert a {greased pellet of patched ball in the ugzle and ran it down on the powder. Push 4t dovn firmly but do not poud ic in place. If the bullec gets stuck in che bore parc way down for any reason, D0 NOT try fo shoot Lf outs Remove the nipple and dump out the powder. Sow drive the bullae out the musele with a rod. When using .31 caliber balls, try different patch materiale to get a good fit in the Darrel. The patch should be about 3/4 in. in diameter. If you wet the patch with saliva it will help Clean the bore between shots. Be sure to thoroughly clean and oii the pistol after you use it to pre- “Vest ruses Blackpowder shovting-4e-elowy-dirty-and smoky, but treneadeus fun-subsea DOVE «a ‘Vive 8 dvo “Wo 1€ 722 WOLSId YSSANOld © 2161 “biep OME fq powbykdor NS er