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Sole Collector
fast
dynamic
The Zoom Kobe IV is equipped
with all the tools for the game’s
most thrilling player.
foreword
Table Of Contents
8 Foreword
10 greatness
It has been quite a journey for Kobe since he first entered
the NBA straight out of high school. Along with the many
Performance
only an amazing player, but a player who has helped push the
performance of today’s top kicks.
16 Retrospective
Since signing with Nike in 2003, Kobe has played in, inspired
he Zoom Kobe IV is an exceptional shoe that was made and helped design some of the most high-performance kicks
for an exceptional player and created by an exceptional in recent memory. Take a look back through the history of his
team. It is a sneaker that could have never come to fruition Nike line.
without the absolute top efforts of everyone involved.
From Kobe himself requesting the industry-defying low- 32 a conversation with Kobe
top cut, to the breakthrough material known as Flywire, Kobe dissects his latest kicks, looks back on his entire line, and
to Nike legend Eric Avar’s sleek and modern design, the reminisces about his Olympic Gold in this in-depth interview.
Zoom Kobe IV represents the best of the best.
40 How low can you go?
Of course, none of this would be possible, though, without In the history of basketball, hi-tops have been the standard in
Kobe, who has pushed the limits to such an amazing footwear. But the Zoom Kobe IV is looking to break that trend.
extent as a player that he has inspired the footwear to What do the studies say?
keep up the pace. It takes a special athlete to be able to
communicate so accurately why something works for him, 44 Fly wire technology
and why something doesn’t. Kobe is just such an athlete, In terms of lightweight support, Flywire has been an industry
and he uses this innate ability to inspire everyone around changer. This performance breakthrough didn’t happen
him. The result of this has come in the form of many of overnight, though. Read the story of its over seven-year
the best performing shoes in recent memory. He not only journey.
plays with an intensity rarely seen in professional sports, he
approaches his footwear design with the same passion and 50 zoom kobe iv Sneakerphile
knowledge that he displays on court. From the materials, to the cut, to the inspirations, here is the
full breakdown of the Zoom Kobe IV, straight from the source.
Kobe has also set a new standard in terms of becoming
an international star. His popularity, particularly in Asia, is 62 Collector: gou yu
something that is greater than anything seen before in an Guo Yu has compiled a collection of Kobe memorabilia that
NBA player. In the following pages, you’ll read more about could humble even the most die-hard L.A. fans – and he has
how Kobe offers a truly unique insight into his needs as a done so all the way from China. Find out how he got started
player, and thanks to him, the Nike team has been given a and where he received his favorite pair.
helping hand in taking their footwear to the next level.
—Zac Dubasik 64 Mentu
Kobe Bryant leads China’s finest up-and-coming players in their
pursuit of basketball greatness. He also lends his heard to a
player in need.
The Responsibilit y of
Words by Zac Dubasik
even over his 2008 MVP award – is the 2006 period of rapid growth in Asia, fueled by the Director, has known Kobe since he first signed
game in which he single-handedly scored 81 Chinese market – and at the center of that with the brand, and says that when Kobe
points. It was the second highest single-game basketball world is the popularity of Kobe travels to the region “he doesn’t just go do an
point total in NBA history, behind only the 100 Bryant. Characterized by a strong, aggressive appearance and leave. He’s really ingrained in
points scored by Wilt Chamberlain in 1962. and athletic style of play, basketball in China the culture. He’ll go eat the food, he gets with
Kobe’s desire for greatness, mixed with his reasoning to go through with the project. and as an influence in the sneaker world, Kobe
finely tuned sense of his own body’s needs, has taken on the role as a leader – doing this with
have made him an athlete unlike any Nike has Kobe even stays connected at the level of keeping intensity, and acting as if it were his responsibility
ever developed shoes for. His insights have up to date with which colorways release next, to do so.
allowed Nike’s team to go deeper and deeper where they will be available and how many
In Retrospect
The History of Kobe’s Kicks
ust after the turn of the millennium, there basketball down to the Kitchen, and actually, I
was quite a bit of uncertainty about Nike’s stable was looking forward to having a break from
of basketball athletes. Michael Jordan had just basketball,” admits Avar. “I was looking forward
retired after an illustrious career, only to return to working on running, cross training and other
and briefly play for the Washington Wizards things. I was there for all of two months and Mark
for just two seasons. Surely, that didn’t mean Parker called, and he said, ‘Hey, we’re thinking of
much in terms of having a long-term face of the signing Kobe, and we would like you to work on
brand that would carry the brand deep into the his product.’”
future. At the time, Kevin Garnett was no longer
a Nike athlete, LeBron James wasn’t yet signed The return to working on basketball product
to his monstrous endorsement deal, and there would be different for Avar this time around as
was still a void in the realm of superstar athletes compared to the decade he had spent within
as Tim Duncan’s personality didn’t quite excite Nike Basketball, as he would now be working
consumers, and the youthful skill of Gary Payton out of the Innovation Kitchen and be given more
seemed to be diminishing. Vince Carter may resources, more room to try new things and
have been leap-frogging actual humans while more freedom to attack high performance with
dunking, but there still wasn’t a proven franchise no restraints. He would also be working with
athlete that the brand could depend on. Luckily Kobe Bryant on creating a series of signature
for Nike, Kobe Bryant was a sneaker-free agent sneakers that could speak to his sleek style of
of sorts, and the brand was looking at the three- play and his unyielding demand for excellence.
time champion as a vehicle for not only the “From there, Mark, myself and Tinker [Hatfield]
future of Nike Basketball, but also the future of went down to L.A. and met with Kobe for the
performance footwear and innovation. first time,” Avar reflects. “We sat across the
table, and I went in with an open mind, and
It was around that same time that Nike had just right from the start I could just tell that he was
opened its Innovation Kitchen, an advanced so passionate about basketball, but [also] about
timeline sector of the company’s headquarters product and design as well. He literally blew
where designers and developers would be given me away within the first two minutes of talking
the space to work years ahead on projects with him. I had worked with a lot of athletes
of the future, toying with everything from prior to that, but it was just an eye-opening
new materials to new cushioning systems and experience for me, and I was amazed at how
anything that could potentially revolutionize or intelligent, articulate and passionate he was
improve their current athletic categories. Just about every aspect of the game, product, design,
before Kobe Bryant was officially signed to the performance and aesthetics. Right from that
brand, current Nike CEO Mark Parker called moment I was super excited to be working with
upon accomplished designer Eric Avar, who had Kobe.” After that initial meeting, the tone had
previously had great success with the signatures been set, and the duo was ready to tackle the
lines of Penny Hardaway, Gary Payton and performance basketball industry head-on.
Jason Kidd. “I had just transitioned from in-line
While the Zoom Huarache 2K4 might be the first Sock Racer at all. The Sock Racer was stretchy the stretchiness was pulling on my toenails, It was going die. Only 50 pairs were booked by
Nike shoe you recall Kobe Bryant regularly wearing, [in the forefoot], and I’m going, “That’s not really and it just made my toes feel funny. This was a maybe only one store. I remember Tom Parks
the Flight Huarache was actually what he rocked where you want stretch.” You want stretch minimalist concept of what we called conforming, saying, “You know, it’s just a niche product, [we]
during the beginning on the 2003-2004 NBA season to be [along the collar] where your feet are all or in our case, we called it Dynamic Fit with probably shouldn’t even make it.” Tom Archie
in player exclusive Lakers colors. Just before he different shapes. You want it to fit better [at the the exoskeletal support system. We didn’t need believed in that running shoe so much that he
debuted the Huarache 2K4, Bryant paid homage collar], that’s where shoes should fit better, right a heel counter, and then we combined it with ordered 5,000 pairs, and he didn’t even have the
to the ancestry of the line, which began a decade there. So I started sketching up booties and then this sort of cupping. As I was finishing up the authority to. He was the PLM for running, and
prior with enhanced fit and targeted support in realized that it needed, for support, some sort of running shoe, which, by the way, was developed he ordered 5,000 pairs without bookings, which
mind. The shoe featured quite a few overlays, but it exoskeleton, because I thought it would be cool by Michael Donohue, and Sandy Bodecker got Nike, at least then, never would have done. He
was also very minimal along the collar, allowing for to be seen. So the whole exoskeletal approach involved, and Mike Quinn got involved … some just did it anyway, which is awesome. That was
a conforming fit unique to each wearer. Legendary to the shoe design sort of came out of this sort of our very best people today were some of our so cool. Then he was kind of in a sense on the
designer Tinker Hatfield reflects about how the of desire to want to develop this Dynamic Fit very best people way back, in a different role. hook for these 5,000 pairs. [laughs] He took
entire Huarache series almost never was … shoe. In some ways I guess you could say it has them to the New York Marathon, put them in our
an internal bootie. It’s not really internal; you see Quickly we realized that this had more legs booth at the New York Marathon, and started
So the Huarache concept came out of a singular most of it in this or in the original running shoe. than just being in a running shoe. So, I thought, selling them. He sold them all, and people were
experience I had. This doesn’t always happen this “Well, I’ll just sort of take this same idea, and putting them on, and it was one of those rare
way. But I was water-skiing one day, and I was I started drawing this exoskeleton over it, and transfer it into both a cross training shoe and products that looked different, but when you put
sitting in the water slalom skiing. Both feet were I took it into Sandy Bodecker’s office, this first a basketball shoe.” Kind of the big three at the it on it also felt different and felt different for the
actually in these neoprene booties, and you’re sketch, and it’s in archives. We actually have it. time: running, cross training and basketball. I did better because it sort of fit in a new and more
strapped in. So I’m getting ready to get pulled out The first sketch sort of showed this neoprene this sketch [for cross training] that pretty much conforming way, and going back to the water
of the water, and I got yanked up and either the idea with this exoskeleton over it and Sandy, he mimicked the running shoe. It was very similar, ski analogy, it sort of just conformed to your
boat wasn’t going fast enough or I wasn’t doing thought it was really cool, and in a red pen he just but with an extra strap for the upper to go up particular shape, and it was interesting. Now
something right, but I crashed. So I’m sitting wrote, “Sneaker of the Gods.” Like it looked like higher in a hi-top silhouette and then a deeper, there’re 5,000 pairs out there, and the orders
there, waiting to get pulled up again, and I’m something that Zeus would wear, like a sandal, bigger midsole cradle and then, of course, the just start rolling in. And then the rest is history
looking down, and I’m just kind of waiting, and I’m kind of like a sandal. I was not thinking sandal or rubber was different than we would have on our for that running shoe that, I think, at the end of
looking at how these neoprene booties sort of fit Huarache or anything at the time, it was Sandy running shoe. that first year had sold 250,000 pairs. So, we
nicely around [my feet]. They just sort of conform who wrote “Sneaker of the Gods” and [he was] were probably a little more able then to change
around anybody’s ankle. The neoprene bootie kind of thinking, “Yeah, this is what Zeus would So my recollection is that I had this sketch, and ramp up production than we are today just
in a water ski fits a bunch of different people, so wear or Mercury or somebody.” So I came back, the original sketch of the basketball shoe, and because of the way factories were a little looser.
I’m thinking, “That’s kind of cool,” and then … I’m going, “It’s sort of like a sandal.” And then I handed that off to Eric Avar. And he was still So they were able to ramp up production and
whup! [laughs] In the middle of that thought, all of I’m going, “I don’t want to call it a foot sandal or pretty young at the time, so it was just sort of get more shoes into the marketplace, and then
a sudden I’m skiing again. [laughs]. So afterwards, a something.” So a lot of us had been to Mexico, given to him to finish it all off. So he finished his the design stayed around. They kept it for the
I skied on, and then I got out of the water, and I and I’m thinking, “Instead of calling it a sandal, I’ll design, put in some of the other little details, and following year or two maybe. In the meantime,
was just looking at the booties, and I’m just going, call it a Huarache.” he did the outsole, too. I didn’t do that particular what was cool about the basketball shoe was
“That’s one of the problems we have with shoes, outsole. He took it to its conclusion and that was that the Fab 5 at the University of Michigan were
they don’t really conform to different shapes of So that’s how the whole thing got started. The because I was busy working on the cross trainer. given these shoes, and they all wore them. They
feet very well,” and I said, “Neoprene does that.” idea was interesting in that it focused on the fit He was doing this one, and the running shoe was thought they were great. This shoe developed
of the shoe around your ankle and your heel and kind of just up and rolling. So that’s really how it a life of its own partly because there was no
I went back to my studio a couple days later and your instep rather than sort of being stretchy and got sort of birthed. The running shoe, by the way, basketball shoe that ever looked like that before
started sketching up neoprene-based shoes. A conforming up in the toes. Sock Racers always it didn’t book at all, the original Huarache shoe, it it, and these guys all at the University of Michigan
lot of people think that Huarache comes from make my toes go numb, so the last thing I wanted did not book. were all wearing them. Again, it was an explosion
the Sock Racer, but it doesn’t come from the to do was create another one of those, because after that. That’s how I remember the story. …
With Kobe Bryant now part of the Nike level athletes, it was quite a departure for the
Basketball family, Eric Avar and the team of brand, as during recent years before it, they
developers he was working with in the Innovation often relied on more visible cushioning elements
Kitchen aimed to provide him with a more in their flagship and most featured models.
modern piece of performance footwear rooted
in light weight, support and minimalism. “It It was for good reason that the brand shifted
wasn’t a pure Flight shoe, it wasn’t a Force shoe away from previous cushioning systems like Shox
and it wasn’t an Uptempo shoe; it was just a or Tubular Air, as the hope with the 2K4 was
shoe unto itself,” explains Avar. It drafted back to that its simple nature and no-frills approach to
Tinker Hatfield’s original Flight Huarache, as the performance would lead to its overall playability
2K4 would incorporate a similar ankle area cut- being the focal point of the shoe and not a
away, but it also took on a more streamlined and specific technology, gimmick or seasonal theme.
simplistic aesthetic based on the needs of Bryant. “The 2K4 was designed around the best of all
“He’s an extremely dynamic and versatile player,” worlds,” says Avar. “At the time, there was a lot
says Avar. “He can be extremely quick, but at of visible technology going on, and we envisioned
the same time he can be extremely explosive this being much more [of] a simple, modern
and powerful. Early on, we just figured that his product grounded in classic elements. At the
product had to be versatile, and it really had to time, some of the classic elements of basketball
cover off all ends of the spectrum. It had to be shoes were getting lost.” Right from the start,
the best of everything, like Kobe’s style and his the 2K4 was a huge success, as its classic lines
game. That was the thinking with the 2K4.” translated well for team product at the college
level, and yet the more flashy and personalized
From there, Avar designed the shoe to Lakers colorways Kobe Bryant was wearing at
incorporate a collection of proven components the time took on a buzz of their own.
that would help in the goal of making the shoe a
dominant performer. The upper was comprised The 2K4 served to be an excellent starting point
of a simple leather base with a toe cap for for Kobe Bryant’s footwear coming from Nike,
reinforcement, and the heel was locked in place as it would lay the foundation for the contoured
with the help of a TPU external counter. A fit, responsive cushioning, lateral stability and
breathable, perforated Neoprene tongue lined attention to detail that Bryant’s line would later
the shoe, and the strap along the collar added an become known for. “He said that the 2K4 was
extra sense of security and fit. “We used Zoom one of the first shoes that he felt like was an
Air, kept the midsole heights low to the ground extension of him,” Avar reveals. “That Nike had
and used a simple, almost one-piece upper,” captured the essence of his performance style.
notes Avar. “It was very lightweight, very minimal That’s manifested itself in some of his other
and just what you need.” While the Zoom product that we’ve done and certainly in some of
Huarache 2K4 became a staple shoe on the feet the future product that we’re working on.”
of nearly all of Nike’s collegiate- and professional-
After the tremendous success that the Zoom was also more radiused for a more natural
Huarache 2K4 experienced just a year prior, Nike landing and improved heel-to-toe transition. But,
Basketball now had a market of fans eagerly the biggest shift from the 2K4 to the 2K5 was
awaiting the next iteration of the Huarache certainly the newly segmented flex grooves along
line. They were rightfully expecting the same the forefoot’s midsole and the more pronounced
top-notch performance attributes, and the next outrigger, which provided some stellar lateral
evolution of the line wouldn’t disappoint, as the stability.
Eric Avar-designed Huarache 2K5 featured a
similar collar strap for protection and once again While the Zoom Huarache 2K5 was once again a
incorporated the highly responsive Zoom Air for team shoe worn at the collegiate and professional
cushioning. “We felt like we had something good levels, Kobe Bryant was a headlining act for the
going with the 2K4, and Tinker [Hatfield] always shoe, and he could often be seen wearing it in a
says, ‘Every third Jordan or so, you really change mean Black/Canyon Gold colorway and various
things up from a performance and construction other Lakers-related styles. The Huarache 2K5
standpoint and from a visual standpoint,’” says was also the shoe that debuted his Sheath logo,
Avar. “The 2K5 was coming very much on the as three colorways that released in the summer
heels of the 2K4, and we felt like we had a good of 2005 incorporated his logo just above the
thing going. And we didn’t want to reinvent the external counter along the heel. While the shoe
wheel too much with this one.” featured several trusty performance attributes,
it also included the use of laser etching, as the
Rather than entirely re-craft the look of the toe and tongue featured hits of leather removed
Huarache 2K4 that people seemed to be with the help of a laser machine for an added
falling in love with, Avar looked instead to the graphic element. The 2K5 wasn’t as revolutionary
performance attributes of the shoe that could as some of the sneakers to come in the Zoom
use some improvement. “We were wondering, Kobe line, nor was it as iconic and simplistic as
though, ‘Could we make it a little lighter, could the Zoom Huarache 2K4, but it did do a great
we make it a little more dynamic?’” recalls Avar. job of foreshadowing the role that Nike’s Free
“We were working with Free at the time, so we ideology would have in Kobe Bryant’s sneakers
wondered if we could make it more flexible and in the coming years. It also began the evolution
make it have a little more responsive toe-off.” of the outrigger within the line, which seemingly
Avar, who also designed the original Nike Free becomes more pronounced every year in order
5.0, sure enough decided to incorporate what to support the lateral needs of the ever-active
he learned from that running shoe and several and explosive Bryant. More than anything else,
of its Free principles into the 2K5, as he carved it continued to build from the stellar on-court
out weight along the midsole and added in performance that brought the 2K4 such adoration,
segmented flex grooves for increased flexibility. and it offered up several added benefits – like
Along the heel, the crash pad and point of contact increased flexibility – along the way.
Zoom kobe
After spending two seasons wearing both the
Huarache 2K4 and 2K5 in several player exclusive
colorways, the time came for Kobe Bryant
to receive his very own signature shoe, and
immediately there were several key components
that had to be incorporated into his first sneaker.
With designer Eric Avar away on medical leave,
Nike Basketball Design Director Ken Link
stepped in and crafted the Zoom Kobe I, which
proved to be full of things he learned from his of grueling two-a-day workouts and weighed in watching the game, and it was like, ‘He’s out of
previous shoes and also full of personal touches higher than he had any other season before at a control.’ I’m thinking, ‘He could go for 100,’” Link
and core attributes specific to Kobe’s needs. “I chiseled 225 pounds. While the shoe may have says. “I remember it being big – it was in the
think the best thing about Kobe is when he looks clocked in at a slightly higher weight than his other paper the next day. I remember just thinking like,
at a shoe, he wants to see himself and his game shoes, it still included attributes of protection and ‘Wow, when he wants to, no one can stop him.’”
in his shoe,” says Link. “I think that’s one of support that his line has become known for, with While some people thought afterwards that the
the things about Kobe is that he gives so much the pronounced lateral outrigger providing the Raptors simply didn’t bother to show up and
information that it truly drives the process.” shoe with a stable base. Along the heel, a molded gave Kobe free reign on scoring, Link remembers
TPU wrap served as a chassis for the foot, helping quite a different scene taking place as Bryant
The shoe began as a modern approach to offering Bryant as he quickly changed directions during earned every last basket. “If you go back to those
lateral support and stability in a cushioned ride, games. “The back heel wrap was based more highlights, there were a lot of cats in his face,
and right away, there was a move away from the around [the thought] that you lock the heel in, and leaping, surprised as they can’t try and stop the
strap that had become so recognizable on both you’re cool,” says Link. “That has everything to do shot. It was not old lady defense,” he jokes.
the 2K4 and 2K5 before it. “He said he didn’t with the control of the foot.”
want one,” reveals Link. “We wanted to focus Once the season concluded, Kobe had a full
on the collar, and you’ll start to see it in other For Bryant, the shoe was everything he needed summer of workouts ahead of him and he began
shoes [later in his line], because a lot of times he at the time, offering a great multi-directional to reduce his weight and frame, getting to a
was already thinking about, ‘Could I get to a low?’ traction pattern, reliable support and the more nimble playing style, but once again, he
Getting to a low is not necessarily the easiest cushioned ride he demanded. The various had the foresight to call out his specific needs in
thing to do, but he felt like his game and where colorways offered up were also extremely the Zoom Kobe I, that would most benefit his
he was headed was getting to that low thought personal and specific to Bryant, like the Retro game at that time. “Kobe, he’s so far along the
process.” It would be another three shoes Nights version in the colors of the MPLS Lakers spectrum of what he expects out of a shoe and
before Bryant truly got into that low-cut height, that paid tribute to retired former Lakers greats, what he wants to put into it, and so he’s been
but the Zoom Kobe I serves as a great opening as well as the Black/Varsity Maize colorway that there every step of the way,” says Link. It made
to his signature series and included several was inspired by the movie Kill Bill and Kobe’s things easy on Link, who had an articulate and
performance merits. ability to be an assassin with the ball. It’s also decisive subject to work with and a set list of
a shoe that holds a special place in the hearts needs to infuse into Bryant’s first sneaker. “He
The heel and forefoot Zoom Air was carried over of both Kobe and Link, as he was wearing the really is ahead of his time, the way that he thinks
from the 2K series for outstanding cushioning, and White/Black/Varsity Purple on January 22, 2006 about his game, the way he thinks about training
at Kobe’s request, the shoe was more padded when he exploded for 81 points against the for his game, the way he thinks about how his
and cushioned at the expense of some weight. Toronto Raptors. It was one of those moments game interacts with the rest of his world and the
He was willing to sacrifice a few ounces in the in Link’s life where he could recall exactly where world around it – he really gets that on a level
shoe because he was just coming off of a summer he was and what he was doing. “I was in Taiwan that most people don’t get.”
Zoom kobe
As Ken Link and Kobe Bryant paired up once footbucket to provide the athlete with lateral He’s so intelligent, he’s so into it, and at the
again to work on his second signature sneaker, support and protection. same time he just really loves it.”
the Zoom Kobe II, they looked to innovate on
many new fronts and take Bryant’s footwear to The shoe was also crafted differently in that the As the Zoom Kobe line would progress beyond
new levels of court feel and construction. Kobe heel and forefoot Zoom Air cushioning units the II, Bryant’s sneakers would always come
had lost some weight and bulk from previous were embedded within the insole, which helped back to the notion of daring to try new things,
year, and now he was looking to take advantage in ridding the shoe of its traditional midsole which can include new cushioning setups, new
of his explosive first step and slashing style of and allowed for it to sit just millimeters off of methods of construction and even new heights.
play. Rather than build directly from the Zoom the ground. The outsole was then created with “We want to think of Kobe in a test pilot type of
Kobe I and its more sturdy construction, Link Nike’s Free principles in mind, as it incorporated manner, and how can we really begin to push
looked to Bryant’s favorite weapon of choice a series of liner and lateral flex grooves for the envelope with him and do some different
for his more stealth frame: the Huarache 2K4. amazing flexibility never before seen in hoops things,” explains Link. “Instead of incrementally
“If you take the 2K4, a great shoe, how can you footwear. The Zoom Kobe II became a new getting there, really taking a big leap as far as
make it more flexible, less layers, lighter, lower way to make a shoe. Unlike previous shoes that function goes. The Kobe II is not a complete
to the ground and provide better cushioning?” included the upper, the midsole and then the departure for a Nike shoe, it’s more about how
questioned Link. “Could you really change one outsole, the Kobe II’s upper was stitched directly we got there and the functionality of it, and that
of the best playing shoes we’ve done? And could to the shoe’s footbucket, so it was the insole when you put it on, it does have a different feel
you take it to the next level for Kobe?” Surely within providing all of the shoe’s cushioning. The than most basketball shoes that we’ve done.” As
those were the type of questions Link was hired result was a shoe that was lighter, lower and Link would hand back the reigns of the Zoom
to solve, so he set out to find the solutions for offered greater control of Bryant’s movements Kobe line to designer Eric Avar after the II, it
Kobe’s current set of needs. when planting and changing directions. “Kobe has would also signal a noteworthy change in Kobe’s
an incredible first step, and we asked, ‘How do line, as Avar sought to remove Bryant’s series
In order to make a shoe that sat lower to the we get that separation [from his defenders] for from the normal business sector and work on his
ground and offered greater flexibility, Link him?’” Link recalls. “We feel that Free could give signature line from the Innovation Kitchen. Now,
and his crew of developers at Nike decided to him great court-feel, and it’s going to give him the shoes were given more than the normal 14-
incorporate the methodologies of both Nike Free that quick first step, and really let him feel the month window that products from the basketball
and Nike Considered, which at first appeared court and move with it.” category are provided for their design and
to be a daunting task. Almost immediately, it Once again, it was the insights from Kobe development process. “I think the way that Eric
was decided that this new approach to the shoe Bryant through a series of discussions and works now is really important for a guy like Kobe
would fundamentally change the way it would be meetings that helped Link and Nike Basketball and how important he is as a kind of test pilot for
constructed, and for the first time in basketball a create the Zoom Kobe II. Link feels that Kobe is Nike,” Link says. “It’s important to get out, to
shoe was made with reduced waste, and without able to provide those bits of inspiration simply get ahead of stuff and try new stuff. The vibe is
toxic chemicals or bonds, as the Zoom Kobe II because he thinks the game through differently really amazing, and it’s all because of that time to
was instead fully stitched throughout. The upper than any other athlete, for basketball is truly really work with the athlete, fine-tune the idea
was comprised of a series of panels that worked his relentless passion. “Vincent Van Gogh was and push the envelope for performance. But, Eric
to provide flexibility and targeted support, albeit asked, ‘Do you love what you do?’ He said, ‘No, recognizes that, ‘Hey, if I get out of this system, I
in a single-layer construction. “The single-layer I obsess it.’ I think most people understand that can really help this guy out. I can really develop a
Considered upper was a way to get to a lighter, people that are great at what they do, they don’t bond and a true insight that will help the category
better system,” says Link. Rather than develop really love what they do, they obsess it. That beyond even what it thinks it can be and show
the shoe with a traditional midsole in mind, the obsession is what we see in Kobe,” Link says. “I it where it could be.’” As we’d find out in the
shoe’s outsole featured a sidewall that crept up don’t really know of any athlete on the court coming years, Link couldn’t have been more right.
along the perimeter of the shoe, serving as a that lives and breathes basketball like Kobe.
Zoom kobe
After two great performance successes in the really breathable and very conforming,” notes
first two installments of the Zoom Kobe line, the Avar. “Kobe says it’s one of his favorite shoes to
Zoom Kobe III took on its own unique styling this day. The shoe played great, there was great
approach as designer Eric Avar came back into cushioning and a great responsive feel.” Unlike
the fold. Avar again took Tinker’s advice of the Zoom Kobe II before it, the III goes sans
changing things up every so often in a shoe line strap, and it includes a simple lacing setup for
to heart. This sneaker was undoubtedly unlike quick and easy entry along with a full Sphere
any other shoe in the line, as it took on a theme Liner for amazingly plush comfort. One thing
and aesthetic all its own. “He’s very, very big on the shoe did carry over from Bryant’s previous
analogies and metaphors,” Avar explains about signature kicks was the diamond touches along
Kobe’s approach to design. “That’s great from it – this time appearing in the forefoot’s traction
a design standpoint, because it’s just so rich in pattern, as the configuration served as an ode to
design inspiration and how you pull different his daughter, Diamante.
inspirations. At that time, he had talked a lot
about the black mamba snake and it being one of The shoe became an instant hit among basketball
the most deadly and sleekest creatures on earth players for its incredibly light weight and close-
and how that related to his game.” fitting comfort, though some people were
certainly initially uncertain of its at-first awkward
It was the notion about the black mamba’s lethal appearance. “We tried to bring some classic
abilities that immediately clicked in Avar’s mind, elements into this shoe, but we also pushed the
as he instantly knew where he planned to take needle with this one, and it’s kind of a love/hate
Bryant’s third shoe. There were a few goals shoe definitely with athletes and consumers,”
he had right from the start as he attacked the admits Avar. “And every so often, I think that’s a
design of the shoe, namely, he wanted it to be good thing to do. You push the boundaries and
lightweight, incredibly stable, and very sleek and have people question what footwear can be.
comfortable against the foot. “We always talk We created a unique product that is very much
about how good design is the perfect balance manifested from Kobe’s unique style.”
between science and art,” says Avar. “And it
starts with science, and you always have to make Despite whatever initial resistance to the shoe’s
sure that the product performs well. appearance there may have been, consumers
From there, how do you bring some of the were won over either once they wore the shoe
performance to life, and how do you mix [in] the themselves or because Kobe was having a career
character of the athlete … so that, as Kobe says, season in them. It would be the shoe he wore
the product becomes an extension of him.” during his first-ever MVP Award season, and he
also wore the Zoom Kobe III while leading the
With the Zoom Kobe III, the approach was Lakers all the way to the NBA Finals. Either way,
actually fairly straightforward, as Avar and his Eric Avar has no regrets for the shoe’s daring look.
team of developers implemented a decidedly “First and foremost, it’s about performance,” he
protruding outrigger for unmistakable support, says. “It’s about creating the best product for him,
as well as Nike’s reassuring Zoom Air in both the but also for all ballers. He likes being on the cutting
heel and forefoot for cushioning. “The upper was edge of new technology and new style, but also
really pretty simple. It was one piece of mesh to push the dynamics of what a high-performance
with this injected, molded structure, and it was basketball shoe could be.”
hyperdunk
Just as Eric Avar was beginning to put the final an array of players and at the same time provide
touches on the Zoom Kobe III, he had already the lightweight cushioned ride that all ballers
begun working on the Nike Hyperdunk, a shoe dream of.
that would not only hope to clock in at the
lightest weight yet for a Nike Basketball shoe, Even before it was widely released, the shoe
but that also would provide more support and took on a life of its own thanks to one of Nike’s
stability when compared to shoes of the past. most extensive viral campaigns yet. Whether
Once again, Avar and his team of designers and it was the creation of a fictitious Hyperdunk
developers tapped into Kobe Bryant and his Recovery Center for victims of a posterizing
explosive and active style of play as they began dunk, or the series of viral videos that showed
to build a shoe that would debut two of Nike’s Kobe Bryant jumping over anything from a
newest technologies: Lunar Foam and Flywire. speeding Aston Martin to a pool of snakes, the
“We had presented some of the early concepts Hyperdunk was given top billing from Nike on all
to him in terms of what we were doing and fronts, and it looked to define a new era of design
what we were thinking with Flywire,” explains and performance going forward. “We’ve talked
Avar. “Of course he was very interested and liked internally quite a bit about the Hyperdunk being
the notion of new performance.” After getting a catalyst,” reveals Avar. “We’ve been doing a
some initial feedback from Kobe and beginning lot of great product in basketball, but I think the
the design process, the team aimed for the shoe market, too, is somewhat turning, and I don’t
to be worn on quite the global platform during know if it’s going to go back to the craziness
the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing. “It was from the ’90s, but in terms of new and honest
never specifically meant to be Kobe’s signature innovations and a return to classic elements, I
shoe, but it was designed definitely with him in definitely feel like we’re seeing that shift. The
mind,” says Avar. “It starts with an athlete and a Hyperdunk was a good catalyst to start and re-
close relationship with a designer and a couple of point the arrow for where basketball and product
innovators.” in general can go.”
For Nike Basketball, the Hyperdunk looked to With the Hyperdunk serving as the signal of
reintroduce some familiar ideas from previous change in the direction of basketball shoes going
shoes and also go where no shoe from the to more minimal and simplistic uppers with
category had gone before. The shoe’s upper protection and support where needed, Nike
was entirely new to the sport, incorporating a had made a statement that Flywire was here
large, clear panel of Nike’s Flywire construction to stay. For ballers worldwide, the technology
that proved to not only reduce weight, but was a welcomed change, as it’s able to reduce
also provide great lockdown and support for the weight of a shoe without compromising its
the game’s most active players. With the help stability. “I think we knew after we made that
of Lunar Foam cushioning in the forefoot and one there – we were like, ‘Oh, shit, this could
an otherwise minimally constructed upper, be something,’” says Jay Meschter, Innovation
the shoe was able to clock in several ounces Director of Nike’s Innovation Kitchen. “This
lighter than previous shoes in the Zoom Kobe is the real deal, and we were pretty confident
line, which are always considered to be the about that internally. To hold your tongue
lightest basketball shoe for every season. Once for four years about something you know
the Summer Olympics rolled around, the shoe that’s going to be impactful, that’s the hard
was validated quite well on court, as players part.” After the success that the Hyperdunk
of all sizes and positions relied on the sneaker experienced on a global scale, Nike Basketball
during the world’s most important basketball now had a new direction for the category, as
tournament. From guards like Kobe Bryant to the shoe’s lightweight and soft cushioning
active big men like Yi Jianlian, the Hyperdunk was properties proved to work for people of all sizes
able to provide protection and containment for and playing styles.
A Conversation with
hen most athletes are asked about their inspirations and needs in his footwear as he
sneakers, they oftentimes have only a surface looks to improve not only the playability of his
level of interest in the details surrounding their shoes every year, but also his performance on
footwear, from the way the shoe looks and is the basketball court as he seeks out an NBA
developed to the way it fits and feels. For some, championship every season. His sneakers are
they might not get past saying, “I just want them a crucial component to that quest. It was at
to be comfortable.” And that’s OK, because after Kobe’s request that the Zoom Kobe IV be made
all, it’s not their jobs to design and construct a as a low-top in order to help with his range of
high-performance basketball shoe to suit their motion, help reduce weight and also help the
needs. But that’s what makes Kobe Bryant so shoe become a part of him, ridding him of any
different. He’s not like most athletes. He not only worry or distraction that might prevent him
understands on a technical level the componentry from making that lightning-quick first step as
and logic behind his footwear, but he also guides he splits a pair of defenders and heads right
the direction of design and innovation at Nike. towards the rim. He also has been closely
If his shoes are too high from the ground and his involved in the development of every one of his
court feel is being compromised, he knows it, and shoes, and it’s his attention to detail and close
he’ll make sure the necessary changes are made. working relationship with Nike Designer Eric
An obsessive analyst of game film and images Avar that allow the two to continue to push
of his playing form, he’ll even notice if his foot is the envelope of design and the boundaries of
sliding too far off of the footbed in shoes, and he’ll performance. Follow along as Kobe has quite a
push for improvements in support to help with lot to say about how his shoes are created and
his reaction time. designed, how the Kobe Mentu project came
about, and how important it was to capture a
Rarely has an athlete been so involved in the Gold Medal at this past August’s Beijing Summer
back story of his shoes, calling out specific Olympic Games.
But a higher cut will at least help, right? Not so have decreased by almost six times in the NCAA a lot of stuff in the scientific literature about
says Nurse. He explains that the “wobble board thanks to evolving training methods ankle taping for example,” begins Nurse. “The
(a training device) is the only thing shown [to] mechanical advantage of ankle tape disappears
how
reduce ankle injuries – that’s it – there’s nothing before they hit the court. They go out, warm up
else in the literature shown to reduce ankle The hi-top vs. low-top debate appears to be and stretch, and that mechanical advantage is
injuries.” The difficulty comes from the simple counter intuitive, because the high cut is stiffer already gone. But what it does do is give you that
anatomy of the ankle joints. The top joint allows just sitting stationary. But when plantar flexed, proprioception feel, and I think that’s important.”
the ankle to plantar and dorsal flex (to move up the line of force changes. You are working with
and down), and the second allows it to invert the same amount of material supporting you, There is a big difference, though, between a
and evert (to roll from side to side). Plantar whether it is a high- or low-cut shoe. That area is mechanical advantage and just a feeling. That
flexion (when your heel is up and toe is down) is where resistance actually comes from, not higher feeling won’t help you prevent an injury. But the
a common and important position for your ankle up on the ankle.[maybe a diagram to show this – I mind is a powerful tool, and if playing in a low-
The use of the Y-shaped, segmented heel allows for better ankle alignment upon impact.
hi-top shoes were that much better, you’d see That shoe is the Zoom Kobe IV. Kobe sought bouncing ideas off of his trainer and works back
guys playing soccer with hi-top shoes – you’d see an increased freedom through a cut that would and forth with Nike to fine-tune every last detail.
tennis players playing in hi-top shoes. There’s a allow a fuller range of movement without ever “Kobe is very in touch with his performance needs,”
feeling that comes with it, and there’s a culture having to struggle against the shoe. “Kobe is very says Nurse. “He can speak to points and then give
that goes with it, but you can get it other ways.” performance driven,” begins Nurse. “He saw a reason for it, too.” Being able to connect on that
that there were performance advantages.” By level gives Kobe an edge above and beyond his
Taking that research into account, it becomes focusing on heel stability through a meticulously already pure physical advantages on court. It also
obvious that a low-top sneaker will work padded collar and heel, a skin-like fit throughout helps the NSRL that much more in their continued
perfectly well for hoops. Low-tops aren’t the upper and exemplary traction thanks to pursuit of excellence in footwear development.
anything new in the world of basketball, looking added herringbone, the Nike team has been able Constantly striving for that edge is what allows
back to even the Air Force 1 Lows. Although they to meet the performance needs that Kobe’s play them to attempt such a highly visible project like
have been often used as a casual shoe more often demands, and do so in the low-top package that making the Zoom Kobe IV a low-top in the first
than on court, players like Steve Nash and Mike he wanted. An additional and important feature place. Through the use of external references on
Bibby have been wearing low-cut kicks on court is the Y-shaped segmentation of the heel, which projects like this, they were able to objectively
for years. Going even further back, the Air Jordan was first seen on the Zoom Kobe III. (IMAGE decide if it was even a path worth pursuing. And
III could be looked at for originally leading the OF HEEL AREA OF ZKIII AND ZKIV) When the once that had been determined, and coupled
trend of sneaker height first starting to lower. Its either side compresses upon impact, the split with in-house research once the product hit the
three-quarter-cut was in major opposition to the sole allows the heel to then maintain a better testing phase, the Zoom Kobe IV was able to be
shoes of that time, but when it performed the alignment, which is so critical to preventing injury fine-tuned until it arrived at its final stage. “For
way it did, people took notice. So, while Kobe by providing a stable base. Check out page 50 for all intents and purposes, I’m Nike’s worst critic,”
isn’t the first person in the NBA to play in a low- the full breakdown of the Zoom Kobe IV. says Nurse. It is refreshing to know what with
top, he definitely is the highest-profile player to researchers like him involved, the idea of a low-
currently, or ever, have a low-top signature shoe. For the NSRL, working with an athlete like top hoops shoe – one that is every bit as safe as a
Kobe offers a rare opportunity. He is constantly hi-top – can become a reality.
istorically, the term “innovation” has been thrown around the sneaker
landscape in an almost reckless fashion. As brands struggle to come up with new
silhouettes and models for each upcoming season, this word is often used to profess
a new industry-shifting technology or improvement made in sneakers. Sometimes,
The Path To Lightweight Containment that just might be true, but it seems that more often than not, innovation around
the industry is filled with catchy terms and phrases that, as of late, haven’t been
living up to their billing. At Nike, there’s a sector of the expansive U.S.-based World
Heaquarters that tends to do things a bit differently when it comes to more honest
innovation, and Jay Meschter would know all about that. After all, he’s the Innovation
Director of Nike’s Innovation Kitchen. A 12-year veteran at Nike, Meschter
previously worked at Apple, designing their computers with the same crew that is
now universally renowned for creating the iPod and other product designs. After
spending several years at Nike designing eyewear and equipment, the chance to
move into the Kitchen was presented to him, and he immediately knew it would
be the best place for his talents, as the new workspace inspired by Nike legend
Bill Bowerman’s passion for creativity and problem solving provided the long-term
product timeline that would help give birth to the innovations of the future.
The very first pin model that Jay Meschter built over seven years ago. This simple model
would spark all of the inspiration for what we now know to be Flywire.
The innovation that Nike is currently most proud use of layers in building footwear has certainly With what they learned from the ’96 Olympics in As he figured out the research behind how a
of is Flywire technology, but it surely wasn’t been a mainstay across all brands, categories mind, Meschter then was faced with the struggle shoe’s support could be provided by just this
something that developed over night. It was a and performance needs within the industry, of not only sorting through such a concept, but type of a series of strands, he then began the
long and arduous process that began well over but Meschter hoped to look beyond the more also then determining how that way of thinking process of sorting through his ideas and trying to
seven years ago, with Meschter alone in his office, traditional and perhaps archaic methods of and change in construction would manifest itself figure out a way that such a shoe could actually
tinkering with new ways to cradle the foot and construction and tackle the core principles of in a shoe. “A lot of times you do that, where be created. Just as he was starting to progress the human foot and constructed into the upper into thinking it could do longer. Some of these
help reduce weight in footwear. The very first athletic needs: support and light weight. you try something and you know conceptually towards finding a solution to create a sample of of a shoe. [strands] are super long, and for one giant stitch
insight he had in the development of Flywire where you want to go, but you don’t know how what he had in mind by using stitch patterns, he we’re looking at around 300 millimeters.” The
can be seen in what is referred to as the “pin As he began to look deeper into the history of you’re going to make it,” he admits. Just after stumbled across serious production struggles The first embroidery machine that they worked ability of the machine to be able to stitch the
model,” upon which he placed strands of string footwear in hopes of fundamentally changing the working with the pin model, he began to realize and limitations. “When we did the pin model, with wasn’t particularly special or different difference in the length of the strands simply
strategically over a foot last. The initial goal was way our shoes are constructed, he immediately that in order for a shoe to incorporate minimal we actually went out to see guys in Schenectady, from the other machines they used for stitching became a make or break decision in order for
quite simple: How can you minimize the weight noticed a time in which reversing the traditional layering along the upper, it would have to feature New York, who were doing helicopter rotors,” purposes, but it was actually a glitch on the Flywire to become a reality. “The machine wasn’t
of a shoe without sacrificing the support and layer construction didn’t work. It was during the a harness for the foot and a way in which the reflects Meschter. “[They used] an amazing 3D machine that eventually worked in the favor designed for it, but it does a really good job of
stability necessary for high-performance sports? 1996 Summer Olympics in Atlanta, and it seemed shoe could cradle the foot and support it during winding machine, but, you know, it’s going to be of Flywire. At the factory level, normally an pulling this off,” beams Meschter. “And then we
Before he could even get to the point of evolving all anyone could talk about was American sprinter an athlete’s harsh lateral movements or bursts of a $50,000 shoe. [laughs] So, we shelved it.” The embroidery machine is only capable of shorter discovered that pretty much every embroidery
that first model of the last and start crafting Michael Johnson’s gold shoes, which were not speed in running. He continued down the path next few years became a dark period for Flywire, and more concise stitches, but in order for machine in Asia can be tuned to do the same
and beginning to create what would eventually only a bright metallic gold, but also a single layer of tinkering with potential alignments of string, as no progress was being made and constructing Flywire to work, the stitches had to be long thing. We just had to undo this stop that was on
become Flywire, Meschter had to begin to upper and one of the lightest shoes Johnson had and he also realized that it would take a series of the shoe with a 3-dimensional armature would strands across the shoe’s upper in order to retain there, and we were able to do it.”
break down the way footwear construction has ever worn. He would go on to win the 200-meter tensile strands that could wrap over the foot in be excessively costly, even if it was the only way strength. “I often get asked, ‘Why?’ and if you
always been definitively perceived to be. “Just and 400-meter individual sprints – he was quite order to provide enough support. The support, the shoe could be made. “And then it wasn’t go to stretch a strand, it’s got a lot of elasticity Once Meschter and the team of developers
think of any Nike shoe that has a lot of overlays,” a fast man! – but, at the same time, Meschter he would find, became a result of the precise until about three or four years after that initial to it, simply because I’m taking the thread and he was working with were able to solve the
he explains. “Think of a running shoe, all of the realized that in reducing the amount of layers on alignment of the strands of fibers, which are model that we stumbled on the embroidery I’m going up and down the material and you just embroidery machine problems they faced, the
overlays you’ve got. The whole methodology of that shoe, Nike also compromised the support of similar to the way in which a bridge’s cables are machine,” says Meschter. “It was like we could made a nice spring. When I go point to point, the last step in perfecting Flywire and making it
footwear construction the past couple hundred the shoe. “In that model, to make it lighter, you suspended vertically to maximize the strength do this flat and pretty much get the same fiber has integrity,” Meschter points out. “So ready for production rested on finding the right
years, dating back to, god knows, Romans, has take off all of those overlays, and then pretty and tension. By eliminating the overuse of layers result.” The embroidery machine found in a Nike it was very critical for us to do that, and the fabric for the strands and also refining their
been ‘I take a roll of material and I cut out a piece, soon you don’t have a shoe that’s very strong,” and relying on the strength of a series of fibers, development factory became the technology’s machine was not designed to do the job. The alignment. “It becomes critical that you can
drape that over the last, and if I need strength, he says. “So, what we were fundamentally trying the area in between the fibers could be cut out saving grace, and it eventually was used to create machine had a limit of 12 millimeters, and then it place [the strands] accurately, because now
what do you do? You put another piece over to do was change that idea or formula of making to help reduce the shoe’s overall weight. “If I the strands of Flywire by stitching them as a flat cuts off. And so we literally went in and adjusted what we’re doing is much more making tendons
the top of that.’ It’s the layer construction.” The footwear.” was really smart about it, I would just take the panel that could be molded to the contours of the settings and kind of fooled the machine and muscles on the outside of your foot than
zoom kobe iv
taking you to daring new heights
Words by Nick DePaula
Photography by Steve Mullholand
and Zac Dubasik
energy lost that the foam will take on, and then
there’s the softness of it.” In Lunar Foam, the
team within the Innovation Kitchen feels they
were able to find the right combination of those
three variables, without sacrificing any one
component in order to get to a lighter weight,
softer or more responsive feel. When Bryant
is dealing with Nike’s designers, he takes his
involvement seriously and takes an active interest
in the materials and cushioning elements that
make up his shoe, leaving the final measurements
and adjustments to Nike’s trained professionals.
“So much of it is just trust and building a
relationship and building trust,” says Avar. “As
detailed as Kobe is about things, I think he really
trusts us to take care of the millimeters of stuff.
He’ll stay with the bigger picture of things.”
Outsole:
While the upper and midsole incorporate proven
elements of several past Zoom Kobe shoes like
the toe cap support overlay and sculpted heel
counter, the IV’s outsole also relies on tried
and true essentials like its herringbone traction
pattern. The pattern features quite a burst-like
aesthetic, and for good reason, as Kobe once
again infused his inspiration into the shoe’s design.
“The Spiderman 3 Venom character is something
that Kobe talked about to us,” explains Luedecke.
“He got really hyped about this character and