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constructing a gun emplacement

Introduction

Like all sane and rational people, we’re big fans of war films and this naturally extends to our wargaming
hobby. Some of the most evocative small actions of World War II involve assaults on fixed gun positions by
elite infantry, one famous example including Easy Company’s attack on the guns at Brécourt Manor.

Our own “Rules of Engagement” rules are very much scenario driven, where your forces are chosen once your
objectives have been determined. This philosophy fits in perfectly with specific assault scenarios and with this
in mind we wanted to recreate this sort of action on the tabletop. First thing was to make some terrain so fol-
lowing plenty of research in books and on the internet (and the Band of Brothers DVD) we spent an afternoon
making and a morning painting a fixed German gun battery.

The Plan

One great thing about the wargaming industry is the amount of friendly traders who understand the benefit
and nature of collaboration. This wider pool of knowledge directly benefits the customer who has access to a
hugely versatile range of hobby goodness. In discussing this project, John from Ironclad Miniatures speeded
ahead production of his new 28mm scale trench sections and our chums from Bolt Action Miniatures had al-
ready released their 105mm German howitzers. All that we had to concentrate on was making the actual gun
pits and painting the whole position. The key considerations here were to make the terrain piece easy to store/
transport, great looking and with playability in mind.

Materials Used

Planning a little makes the whole process of terrain building flow more smoothly so it’s worth working out
what materials you will need, obtaining those you haven’t got and checking that you have the rest to hand.
Nothing ruins a terrain making day more than having to travel to get the modelling clay that you were sure you
had. Below is a list of the tools and materials we used:

• Foamcard or Hardboard
• HD (High Density) Insulation Foam
• PVA Glue
• Air Hardening Modelling Clay
• Balsa wood
• Knife
• Files
• Super Glue
• Needle and Thread
• Model Netting and Foliage
• Static Grass
• Paints and Brushes
constructing a gun emplacement

Modelling the Gun Position

Although there are many good reference points for artillery positions, the terrain and available materials often
dictated the layout and shape of the battery. These positions would often hug hedgerows or wooded areas as
protection against aerial observation and attack. History and available evidence are very useful but, in this
instance, the modeller and gamer should not feel constrained by them. German field fortification plans were
used as guides rather than rigidly adhered to. Our position represents a hastily constructed 3-gun battery on
the Western Front in 1944, camouflaged amongst the Normandy hedgerows. Paper strength indicated 4-gun
batteries of this type in infantry divisions but losses and reallocation of resources meant that 3-gun batteries
were common.

Stage 1: Using the Ironclad Miniatures trench sections as a guide, we drew the shape of the base of the gun
position on our foamcard and cut it out with a Stanley knife. Naturally, when using sharp implements, great
care must be taken to avoid spending your terrain making day in casualty! A template designed to go with the
Ironclad Miniatures’ trench sections is provided at the end of this guide.

Stage 2: Next stage was to form the basic shape of a gun pit. A gun position would be located in a shallow
pit, the moved earth being used to form protective walls. The HD foam was cut to make the base for an earth
wall at the front and back of the position and modelling clay was applied to cover any holes. The front of the
position will eventually be flush with the trench wall whereas the rear will be a much lower sandbag wall.
Consideration was also taken for when lining the gun pit with flooring and supporting revetments.
constructing a gun emplacement

Stage 3: Many of the plans for German field fortifications and gun positions extensively used logs and plank-
ing. Construction units used portable sawmills to cut specifically dimensioned logs for planking, revetments
and even tables and beds. We cut thin strips from balsa wood and used PVA glue to secure them. For curved
sections we soaked the balsa in water for 10 minutes, glued it in place then used nails to secure it until dry
(about 2 hours). This drying time is perfect for making a cup of tea and moving onto sandbags.

Stage 4: Sandbags were a valuable commodity (their worth is in the fact that two layers are enough to stop
small-arms fire) on every front and surprisingly scarce. In fact, ammunition crates (that were meant to be
returned to the munitions factory) and even empty oil drums filled with earth were used in the absence of
purpose made sandbags.

Sandbags are remarkably easy and cheap to make; we buy 1.5kg blocks of non-firing clay from hobby stores.
First roll out a cylinder of clay, about 6mm in diameter, press down gently on the sausage to flatten the bot-
tom, and then cut into 10mm length sections. To add more detail you may wish to use fine gauze to imprint a
burlap sack texture and a knife to score the ends of the sandbag. The model sandbags are placed straight onto
the terrain piece and then, with moist fingers, pressed into place to replicate the way that heavy sand sits and
sags over the sides of any surface.
constructing a gun emplacement

Stage 5: Next we cut strips of 1.5mm thick balsa to form the flooring of the gun pit. This needs to be a stable
platform for firing so we made it more precise than the rough duckboards in the trenches. Again, the versatile
PVA glue was used. Following that, the vertical support posts (using 2.5mm square balsa baton) were cut and
glued in place. Time for more tea…

Stage 6: Camouflage netting was used extensively in addition to natural terrain for concealing gun positions,
especially from the air. Our intention was to make our netting so that it could be removed to aid gameplay and
avoid damage when moving figures in and out of the gun pit. With the sandbags still pliable, we cut the vertical
poles (using 2.5mm baton) for the camouflage netting. The two front posts were approximately 65mm high
and the two rear ones 45mm high. These were pressed against the pliable sandbags (to make an impression
for later placement) and the cross beams super glued in place. Small supporting struts were added for rigidity.
Once the super glue was dry PVA glue was dabbed around the joins to give added durability.
constructing a gun emplacement

Stage 7: Now the terrain piece was prepared for painting. Earthen areas were textured with sand and any
exposed foam was sealed with a mix of paint and PVA glue and left to dry overnight. The following morning
the whole thing was undercoated black.

Stage 8: For cover against aerial observation, we used a camouflage netting kit with model leaves from
Antenociti’s Workshop. You can also use a number of other items that will serve as netting or tarpaulin, such
as gauze or kitchen paper towel. We laid our camo netting over the frame and used a needle and thread to
secure the four corners, the middle of the crossbeams and the bunched netting on the frame legs. This is a
bit fiddly but it avoids the mess that always occurs when trying to super glue the netting and makes the whole
thing very secure. After cutting off excess netting and thread, a tiny drop of super glue was dropped on the
threads.
constructing a gun emplacement

Painting the Gun Position

Painting terrain can be quick and easy, achieving great results without having to spend huge amounts of time.
We painted the gun position and adjoining trenches over a single hour, including time for tea. Four paints are
used in progressively lighter drybrush techniques, all from the Vallejo Model Colour range: Burnt Umber, Flat
Earth, Brown Sand and Iraqi Sand.

Stage 1: Heavy all-over drybrush of Burnt Umber.

Stage 2: Drybrush of Flat Earth on earthen areas, sandbags, angles of posts and middle sections of flooring.
constructing a gun emplacement

Stage 3: Drybrush of Brown Sand on earthen areas and heavy drybrush on sandbags.

Stage 4: Light drybrush of Iraqi Sand on earthen areas and heavier drybrush on sandbags. Iraqi sand also
used to pick out raised stones etc on earthen section.
constructing a gun emplacement

Stage 5: Static grass, model leaves and foliage are generously added to represent turf and attempts to provide
natural concealment.

Stage 7: Model leaves were glued in patches over the netting.


constructing a gun emplacement

Stage 8: Small details were added such as crew personal weapons, helmets and a box. There is plenty of scope
for adding extra detail such as flags, bits of webbing, shells and other such items. The weapons and helmets
that we used were provided by Bolt Action Miniatures, they do an excellent range of additional items which
add a lot of character to a piece like this.

Gun positions like this one once made can be used for a variety of different functions; instead of the artillery
piece the position would be perfect for an Anti-tank gun or an Anti-aircraft weapon.
constructing a gun emplacement
constructing a gun emplacement

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