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PLACEMENT
ZIP TIES
Use caution when tightening the zip ties. It is possible to pull the outer panel of the “top” leg wall in too far.
Properly tightened, there should be no more than 1/8” of inward deflection.
REBAR
Place rebar as specified!
PLUMB WALL
Plumb and straighten all walls before the pour. Using a laser is recommended but not necessary.
By attaching scrap 2 x 4s in the corners vertically on the top course of forms you will be able to run a string
line around the building. As one worker measures along the wall to make sure the distance between the
string and the wall is consistent, someone else can be adjusting the kickers as necessary to bring the wall
into plumb.
TURNBUCKLES
Check to make certain that the diagonal turnbuckles of the wall alignment system are adjusted to the middle
position.
A line pump is smaller and often less expensive. Order one with
a 3-inch line or less. Since you will need 1-2 workers on the
ground during the pour to help move the line, you need to
compare man hours to pump hours when using this system.
We recommend specifications in the chart below for the concrete mix. If the engineer, architect, or local
building codes specify a different mix design, follow their specifications. You may also consult the concrete
supplier for the availability of an ICF mix.
Under 5.5 – Slump is too low 5.5 to 6.5 – Slump is correct Over 6.5 – Slump is too high
Concrete slump is the measure of flowability of concrete. Slump can be measured by pouring concrete into a
cone, as shown, consolidating it with a rod, and turning out on a flat surface and removing the cone from the
concrete. Hold a horizontal rod across the top of the upside down cone for level. Measure distance to the top
of the concrete from the rod – that is the “slump” number.
NOTE: Adding one gallon of water per cubic yard reduces concrete strength by 150psi according to the PCA
rule of thumb.
TECHNICAL TIP:
DO NOT ADD EXTRA WATER TO THE CONCRETE, EITHER AT THE PLANT OR AT THE JOB
SITE. THIS PRODUCES WEAK CONCRETE AND INCREASES THE PRESSURE ON THE FORMS.
As concrete sets, the pressure gradually reduces to near zero. By the time the crew begins the second lift,
the concrete of the first lift has set enough that there is little likelihood of difficulties in the bottom of the wall.
As the second lift is poured, the highest pressure occurs at the bottom of the second lift. When consolidating
the concrete, be sure to extend into the lift below to avoid a cold joint at the intersection of the two lifts.
0’
2’
4’
6’
8’
2. VIBRATION
Vibrating the forms will also increase the pressure approximately 1.5 times. Using a smaller diameter
vibrator can significantly reduce this pressure. The recommended diameter is 1”. Under no
circumstances should a vibrator greater than 1” in diameter be used on the walls. When the walls are
being vibrated maximum pressure will again occur at the bottom of the forms, so be sure to watch
carefully.
4. CONCRETE TEMPERATURE
In cold weather, hot water is typically added to the concrete mix at the plant; however, trip duration and
pumping time may drop the temperature of the concrete to the point that lifts need to be adjusted to
approximately half height to compensate for the added time it will take for the concrete to set up.
TECHNICAL TIP
Because the cavity on a 4” wall tends to fill much faster than a 6” or thicker wall, the
concrete pressures increase faster. PLACE CONCRETE VERY SLOWLY WHEN
FILLING A 4” WALL!
NOTE: Prolonged periods of static vibration can cause the form pressure to be doubled resulting in an
overstressing of the forms and blowouts may occur.
If the crew spots a bulge, reinforce it with a square of plywood or some 1x4s screwed flat over the bulge.
Screw these wood reinforcements directly to the ECO-Block webs with #10 course thread drywall screws.
If any of the foam happens to blow out, stop the concrete placement on that wall. This rarely happens but it is
possible if the rate of placement has been too fast, or the concrete is too wet. Move the placement to the
next wall and continue to work as the crew repairs the hole. To repair the hole, remove the concrete down to
the bottom of the hole. Replace the torn form fragment, cover it by screwing plywood or 1x4s to the webs at
least 16”, or 2 webs beyond the torn form. The placement can now resume on the repaired wall.