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MINIATURE CONTENTS
1. Unimat versatility.. ......................... Page 2

MACHINING
2. Introduction & Index.. ..................... Page 5
3. How to operate the
basic equipment.. ........................... Page 6

TECHNI=UES
4. Use of accessories.. ........................ Page 17
5. Tips for the expert craftsman.. ........ Page 33
6. Advanced Techniques.. ..... .............. Page 34
7. Measuring Tools.. ........................... Page 36
8. Parts I$. ............. ..: ....................... Page 37
9. Table of cutting and
a general handbook and operator’s manual drilling s p e e d s
I

FROM BEGINNER TO EXPERT CRAFTSMAN


in METAL l PLASTICS l WOOD

nietal turning l drilling l milling l grinding l polishing


l sharpening l sawing l surface grinding l threading l

boring l wood turning l special techniques l jigs and


attachments
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO GET BEST RESULTS
AND TO AVOID DAMAGING YOUR MACHINE!

Working metal parts of the Unimat


are protected in shipment with a coat- Several types of motors are illustrated
ing of rust-resistant grease. Wipe off Before you plug in the motor, check in this manual. The motor supplied with
with a cloth dipped in kerosene or ben- the idler pulley. It should spin freely. your Unimat is a high torque quiet
zene. Then lightly oil the lathe bed, Make sure the protective grease hasn’t operating l/lOth HP 110 volt 60 cycle
cross slide and all exposed metal sur- hardened around the ball bearings, and motor. Motor designs are subject to ix-
faces to prevent rust. Number 10 motor that the clamping screw is not too tight. provement, and the motor delivered
oil or any light grade machine oil will This screw should be just snug enough with your unit may have a slightly dif-
do the job. to keep the assembly from slipping out. ferent appearance. If your motor heats
Though you can use the Unimat as is, Put too much tension on this screw after running co”ti”““usly for 5 to 10
you’ll find it helpful to screw the bed and it will distort the ball bearing raw minutes, this does not mean it is defer-
down to a perfectly flat board. A piece and prevent the pulley from turning tive. Your motor is fully enclosed to
of 11 x 18 inch plywood, a/4 or 1 inch properly. protect it from chips and dust and, be-
thick makes a good working base. The The headstock pulley must clear the cause a lot of power is packed in a
board shown in the photo was made of motor bracket. If the cap screw on the small case, there is heat build-up, which
a piece of scrap Formica counter top, a bracket loosens, the spindle spring will has been provided for in the design.
material available at most lumber yards. push the motor bracket up against the Unimat spindle ball bearings are fac-
The white color makes small parts easy pulley causing the spindle to stall. Use tory pre-lubricated and will need no
to see and the grease resistant surface a folded piece of cardpaper (about ,015” additional attention for the first 300
is easy to clean. A complete Unimat thick) between the pulley and motor hours of use. After this time, follow in-
Workcenter (DB 1400 ) is available as bracket to set the spacing and then structions on page 33 for disass&nbly of
listed on the back cover. tighten the cap scr”ws. the spindle and lubrication.

3 JAW CHUCK
DB 1001 UNIVERSAL LATHE CHUCK CENTERS ROUND
SHANK TOOLS AND WORKPIECES FROM ,118” TO 2-l/64”
Clean jaws and threads. Then oil with :
a light film of #lO motor oil or equiva-
There are two lathe chucks available lent. To reassemble the chuck jaws in
for your UNIMAT: #lOOl, 3-j, Uni- normal position, rotate the ring until
versal, and #lOOla, 4.Jaw Independent the scroll ‘ring’ appears at a point just
chuck. Both accessory chucks must be before slot # 1. Engage jaw # 1 by press-
‘trued’ to the lathe spindle to make them ing inward gently. Continue turning the 6E’ Lwsming chuck jaws.
run dead accurate. Before using, machine ring until it is next to slot #2. Install
chuck backplate as described on page 18 jaw #2, and then repeat for jaw #3 When chucks are new they require a
under “Truing Instructions”. light inward pressure to insure that
Carefully unwrap and clean the they properly engage the scroll.
chuck. It is protected in shipment with In normal position, the chuck jaws
a preservative which must be removed will take round work up to 15/16” on
with solvent - kerosene, gasolene, or the inside. Or using the backs of the
lighter fluid will do. Loosen the jaws by jaws on tubing, etc., you can handle up
rotating the outside knurled ring coun- to a Z-5/32” diameter. By reversing the
terclockwise looking at the face of the jaws, larger work can be machined up
chuck. to 2-15/64” diameter. To reverse jaws,
As each jaw disengages from the remove as explained before, but reverse
scroll, it can be removed. The first jaw each jaw and replace in the chuck in
to release will be #3, next #2. and then this order: jaw #3 in slot #l; jaw #2
#I. 6E Tightening chuck jaws. in slot #2; and jaw #l in slot #3.
6
precision reaming, mandrel turning taper
turning and lathe threading.. .

Finish the other side of the cut with


the right-hand finishing bit (DB 1102).
While both finishing tools will cut in-
ward from the end of the tool as well as

laterally, this is not recommended. The


proper tool for “digging” into a bar is
the roughing tool, and the finishing tools
should be saved for final facing cuts.
If you have “ever worked before with
a really precise lathe, running the Uni-
mat can be a” amazing experience. Small
work of the type shown in Photo 9F

meter. The handwheel is further divided A loose feed is better for fast working
into 20 marks corresponding to a feed in soft metals, wood and plastic, but
of .05 mm per mark. you need a tight feed whenever you cut
Though most camera, optical and cast iron, brass or steel. Practice will
instrument parts are setup with metric show you that the best setup for any
system threads, you may prefer to work giv,, material is a combination adjust-
in inches. One millimeter equals .03937 ment of the handwheel and carriage or
inch. For all but the most exacting cross slide tension screws. The smaller
work, you can round off this decimal to the work diameter, the “tighter” the
.04”, the amount of feed in one turn of lathe should be.
the handwheel. In inches, each small It is very important to keep the feed
mark is a feed of .00.2”. It is important to screws clean and well lubricated with
remember that when you are cutting light machine oil. An chips accumulate,
across the lathe bed, that you reduce remove immediately with a small paint
takes shape in seconds. If yo” keep tools hoth sides of the workpiece at once. brush or “se a” ear syringe to blow
properly centered, sharp, and ground at Thus, turning one calibration actually them off. If you are working in brass or
the proper angles, you’ll often find that removes double the feed, ,004”; a com- cast iron, metals that produce powdery
the lathe tools produce work that looks plete turn of the handwheel, .OS”. small chips, yo” can protect the lathe
as though it had been polished. bed and feed screws by covering with
FEED ADJUSTMENTS pieces of household aluminum wrapping
TURNING TO SIZE 0” most lathes, there is some backlash
foil, Whenever chips gather on the feed
All of the threads on Unimat parts in the feed screws. In other words, the
SCRWS do not turn the handwheels since
* are metric. The long leadscrew which screw will turn slightly before the tool
this can damage the threads. The easiest
controls movement of the carriage from starts moving. To adjust this play, loose”
way to clean the threads is to place the
one end of the lathe bed to the other, and the nut that holds the handwheel, adjust
Unimat in a shallow tray (a cookie bak-
the cross slide screw are both 8 x 1 milli- the wheel, and retinhten the nut.
ing tin will do nicely) and flush the
meter threads. This means that if Y O U Too much tension on the feed wheels
chips loose with kerosene fed from a”
turn the hand wheels one complete revo- will give you a stiff slow working feed;
too little tension can ca”se tool chatter. oil eari.
lution, you get a feed of exactly 1 milli-
9
I
headstock alignment, precision drilling
and boring on the lathe.. .
headstock, or far to the right out of the
HEADSTOCK SPINDLE way. Then clean the tailstoek bore with
ALIGNMENT kerosene and cloth, and insert for eenter-
So far, the photos have show” Unimat ing.
cutting operations where only rough Next move the tailstock over, lock it to
alignment, of the spindle was needed. At the bed and gently feed it into the head-
the factory, Unimat headstocks and tail- stock spindle as in Photo IOA. As you do
stocks are mounted on the bed, and then this! be 8”~ that there are no chips or
bored in one operation. A” alignment pin cuttings between head and tailstock
feeds through the lip on the front of the castings and bed, or on any parts in-
headstock casting down into the lathe volved. As the dead center mates with PRECISION LATHE BORING
bed. It gives you a quick way to center the headstock spindle, it will line up the Purpose of the boring bar (DB 1105)
the headstock when setting up rough headstock to dead accuracy. Tighten the is to turn internal holes. The end of the
cuts, installing attachments, etc. How- bed tapered clamping screw, but do not boring tool is ground at a” angle similar
ever it is accurate to only about one de- “se the aligning pin. to that on the side of the facing tools.
gree of arc. One quick way to check alignment is Drill the workpiece out to l/4 or 6/l&
Precise small work requires that the to “se a razor blade as in Photo 10B. If inch. Then set the boring bar in the tool
lathe run dead trueTo make this setup, the blade will hang vertically to the bed holder, centering the edge a8 with the
loosen the tapered bed clamping screw axis between the two dead centers, your other lathe tools. Be sure to mount the
headstock is perfectly aligned. If you tool in the holder parallel to the lathe
find that there is error, you may need to ways. Do not try to cut all the way in one
loose” the tapered bed screw slightly and pass. Because chips tend to gather in the
tap on one corner of the headstock cast- workpiece, it is necessary to r”” boring
ing-(use a wood block or soft rubber cuts slower and at lighter feeds than for
mallet) to bring the center into align- external work.
ment. As the bore approaches the desired
diameter meas”re with vernier calipers,
PRECISION DRILLING or by checking against a fitting part.
ON THE LATHE As a” example, let’s say that the bored
For ordinary rough work, you can drill ring in Photo 10D is a bearing that has
holes in workpitxes held in the 3-jaw to fit smoothly on a rotating shaft. As we
lathe chuck eve” though the headstock make successive cuts, we can measure
spindle is not perfectly aligned. There with various types of machinist’s
will be no trouble with drills down to gauges. But these gauges are costly and
l/32”. However, if you want to drill per- you may not have one in the exact size
fectly true deep holes, you’ll find if the desired.
(see Photo ‘7B) and remove alignment soindle has not been alirned. that the
pin. Never force any parts of the ma- The easiest method is to machine the
chine. Sometimes, if your Unimat is shaft first. Make it about one-half inch
stored in a cold or dry place, and not used longer than finished size, and turn off the
for months, tight fitting parts may stick extra material for “se as a diameter
in place. Use a pen&ant such as “Liquid gauge.
Wrench”, a solvent available in small Use B fine jewelers file or garnet paper
cans at hardware stores, and follow " P and finishing cloth to polish down cme
with light oil. end of your plug so it measures about
l/1000” less than the desired shaft dia-
meter. Then as you bore the finish hole
in the bearing, “se this plug to check the
inside diameter. Mark the plug gauge
drill may produce a slightly conical hole. and save for future use. A set of such
,or the workpiece may eve” break drill. diameter gauges can be made up as you
With the headstock properly aligned, go along and will have many uses in the
and chucks and bed cleaned and oiled, Unimat shop.
you should have no difficulty in drilling
(Photo IOC) as small as a” 80 size drill When boring large holes with the 3-
(.0135”). This type of work is impossible jaw chuck, it is important to improvise
on most lathes without special tools. a stop on the bed to prevent the tool from
Whenever drilling below l/32-inch, re- cutting into the chuck itself. You can
member that it is easy to overfeed the clamp a wood block on the bed, or make
Now insert the feed pinion handlever drill. Small drills will tend to bend out of bed stops by sawing a ring like the one
in the headstock and move the headstock line slightly while they are making the shown in Photo 10D in half. It is also a
spindle as far as it will go to the right. hole, causing inaccurate bore. It is a good idea to chamfer the end of the
Lock in place with the headstock cap good idea to watch the work with a large workpiece facing the chuck, to avoid hav-
screws. Move the cross slide. either all magnifying glass mounted over the ing to bore all the way through.
the way left until it almost touches the lathe. .
10
precision reaming, mandrel turning,taper
turning and lathe threading.. .

PRECISION REAMING with a l/4-inch reamer. The smaller end To establish the taper angle, you will
Though the Unimat runs more accu- of the l/4-inch mandrel is inserted in need a test bar. This bar will have many
rately than most common lathes, twist the’hole and the work tightened by tap- other use8 later on. Select a perfect piece
drills will generally not cut dead accur- ping the other end of the mandrel with a of free-machining steel about 3/X-inch
ate. Boring tools below l/4-inch are not soft mallet until the work locks on the diameter. Cut it exactly 5 inches long,
satisfactory on deep holes because the shaft. true the ends and mark the centers.
tool may tend to bend against the work- Both ends of the mandrel have hard- Punch carefully. Align the lathe centers
piece. Reaming is a standard technique ened centers. It mounts between lathe perfectly and use the roughing tool to
to use whenever you want small holes cut the bar down to about ,260”. Then
accurate to l/1000-inch. use the left hand finishing tool to turn
Just like drills, reamers are available the bar down to an exact l/4-inch diam-
in fractional, number, letter and metric eter. If your lathe was properly setup,
sizes. The reamer is a stiff fluted tool and the diameter should check exactly at .25”
should never be used to remove more from one end to the other.
than a few thousandths stock. To make
Now to set up a typical taper cut. Let’s
the precise-fitting camera post (Photo
say that we want to machine some bars
11A) the workpiece was first turned
that have a taper of l/4” per foot. This is
down to diameter and then drilled one
equal to a taper of .I042 per the 5.inch
size under that of the reamer.
length of our test bar. Place the test bar
The reamer should not be driven by
between centers and adjust the head-
the drill chuck in the tailstock, since this
stock angle until you can read a differ-
can cause inaccuracy. Instead hold the centers with the faceplate driving the ence of ,104 between the bar and the tip
reamer in a tap wrench. The back end of
lathe dog. As the work revolves you may of a tool mounted exactly on center in
most reamers has a center hole. Ennase
find that you want to use scrap electrical the tool holder. Use shim stock (or a dial
this on the tailstoek center, and either wire to tie the lathe dog soldily to one gauge mounted in the tool holder) and
with the work rotating at very low speed, faceplate slot, to prevent vibration in the check at each end of the bar.
or turning the headstock spindle pulley
cut. Be sure to oil the tailstock center
by hand, slowly feed the reamer into the Some inaccuray may be introduced
every few moments as the machine runs.
hole. Never force a reamer. Use plenty when the centers drive the work at an
The tailstoek should not be set so tightly
of lubricant and on deep holes, remove angle. Therefore make a triaL cut on
that the center overheats. If much of
the reamer frequently and clean the another 5-inch bar. Exact diameter is
this kind of work is done, you will need
chips. Never turn a reamer backward in not required since the taper per foot
a DB 1220(a) ball bearing center.
the work since this can dull the cutting ratio will remain the same. Use a micro-
edges. TAPER TURNING meter at each end to measure the dia-
A taper is a cone-shaped cut on a meters. Difference is the taper. A slight
MANDREL TURNING workpiece. Taper-cut pins, shafts, and adjustment of the headstoek may be
Many kinds of work are difficult to fittings are widely used in instruments required.
mount in the regular chucks. An example and on machine tools because a tapered
is a three step pulley, Photo 11B. The rod does not wear into a hole to cause in- Tapers can also be bored in short
workpiece is mounted between centers sccuracy. Taper pins, for example, tend workpieces held in the 3.jaw chuck. If
on a special hardened dead straight bar to seat in their sockets with a wedging you plan to do considerable taper turn-
called a mandrel. Mandrels are available action that self corrects for wear. ing, it would be best to make a protrae-
through machinist’s supply houses and On most lathes, you cut a taper by tor bar which can be chucked in the
are made by drill manufacturers. One offsetting the tailstock. On the Unimat, tailstock for checking headstock offset
end of the mandrel is slightly smaller it is done by operating the headstock at against the faceplate.
than the rated diameter, while the other an angle away from dead center. To
end is larger. machine a tapered bar or pin, punch the LATHE THREADING
Thus to turn the pulley, your first step ends of your work and mount between There are three ways of cutting
is to rough turn the stock to approxi- centers. Jf the headstock is angled to- threads on the basic Unimat : with taps,
mate diameter and length in the 3-jaw ward the rear of the lathe, the taper dies, or the Thread Chasing Attach-
chuck. Then center drill one size beneath will cut smaller at tht tailstock end. If m e n t (DB 1 2 7 0 ) . T o c u t i n t e r n a l
the required shaft diameter. Next the the hezadstock i s a n g l e d t o w a r d t h r threads, you first must prepare the right
workpiece is reamed, in this egample lathe front, the taper will cut small at size hole for the thread desired.
the left. 11

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