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CHASQUI PERUVIAN MAIL

Year 2, Number 4 Cultural Bulletín of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs August 2004

Road to Machu Picchu. Fotograph: Heinz Plenge.

QHAPAQ ÑAN: THE GREAT INCA TRAIL / LANGUAGES IN PERU


THREE POETS OF THE FIFTIES / OUR DAILY SEA
A STORY ABOUT HISTORY / THE AFRO PERUVIAN CAJON
LANGUAGES IN PERU
REREADING BABEL
Roberto Zariquiey*
We are told in Genesis that in ancient times, «the whole world had one language and a common speech»
(Genesis 11, 1). This made men strong and united, to the extent that they decided to build themselves a
city with a tower reaching to the heavens. Realizing their intention, Jehovah punished them by making
them speak differently. According to Jewish and Christian traditions, that was the origin of the world’s
linguistic diversity. Nowadays, many sectors of society still look upon the linguistic and cultural diversity
as a problem. They view others as savages and still believe that the homogenisation of individuals is the
solution. Can Peru progress by turning its back on the linguistic and cultural diversity that characterizes
the country? Below are a few facts and thoughts to help readers understand how different we are and
how much needs to be done so that we can learn to know and value ourselves.

HOW MANY LANGUAGES DO French and Spanish. In addition, both


PERUVIANS SPEAK? Quechua and Aymara are spoken by
people who do not necessarily share

T
here is no easy answer to this the same traditions, but who, quite the
question, since determining contrary, have very different customs
whether a particular tongue is in and idiosyncrasies. For example, not
fact a language rather than a dialect is only do Quechua speakers from Cuz-
no simple task. Despite these co speak quite differently from
difficulties, experts speak of the Quechua speakers in Ancash, they
existence of 39 or 40 languages in the also have very different cultural
Amazon region, grouped in 16 linguistic traditions and festivals.
families.1 That is to say, in addition to The same occurs with Aymara,
the native languages that we are well which is commonly thought of as the
aware of, such as Shipibo, Aguaruna, language of the highland plains, when
Machiguenga and Ashaninka (the latter in fact it is also spoken in Tacna and in
two are related and belong to the the highlands of Lima (where it is
Arahuaca family), there is a great referred to as jaqaru, the Aymara term
diversity of languages that the rest of for «man’s language»). Again, the
the Peruvian population know very variations and cultural applications
little about. Nor do we know much between an Aymara speaker from
about the people who speak them. Puno and one from the highlands of
Every one of these languages forms part Lima (specifically the town of Tupe)
of a cultural framework that is both are surprisingly different.
different and unique. The jungle is In view of the above, current
not a homogeneous territory, neither scholars tend to look upon Quechua
are the natives who inhabit it all alike. and Aymara as linguistic families
Every ethnic group has its own beliefs comprised of groups that not only speak
and practices, its own particular history differently but also belong to different
and each has its own way of relating to nations. We tend to relate Quechua
the national culture. We are not very with the Andean region and are
familiar with all this; it is probably our usually unaware of the fact that many
lack of knowledge that is at the root of varieties of Quechua are employed as
our indifference. a means of communication by people
Now let us review the Andean in lower jungle areas who live on the
region. Whenever we think about the banks of the rivers Napo, Pastaza and
Andes, the only languages that spring Tigre. As a matter of fact, men and
to mind are Quechua and Aymara. In women who originally belonged to the
linguistic terms, however, the Andean Omaguas, Quipos, Canelos or Cocamas
region is almost as complex as the (all Amazon ethnic groups) now call
Amazon region. To begin with, it is themselves kichwas, without realizing
difficult to consider Quechua and that their language stems from
Aymara as «languages», since there are Quechua. They are also unaware of
almost as many idiomatic differences the fact that they did not learn kichwa
between them as there are between Athanasius Kircher, The tower of Babel, Rome, 1639 from the Incas (who were never able

CHASQUI 2
to conquer them), but from the Jesuits
who arrived in these territories during 1 Language, dialect and linguistic family
the XVII century to evangelise them, may seem rather vague concepts. We shall
communicating with them in Quechua. try to clarify them by resorting to our own
Spanish language: It could be considered,
for instance, that people in Buenos Aires,
REREADING BABEL Lima and Madrid speak Spanish dialects,
which in turn comprise a language alongside
Everything stated thus far will help other related languages like Portuguese,
French or Italian, for example. After all,
to understand an essential fact: to say these languages all form part of the same
that Peru is a multicultural or romantic family that bands together all Latin-
multilingual country should not be a based languages.
merely rhetorical argument. The fact
is that our country is much more diverse
that we imagine. If we accept that BIBLIOGRAPHY
Quechua and Aymara are linguistic
Rodolfo Cerrón-Palomino. Lengua y socie-
families and acknowledge that very dad en el valle del Mantaro. (Language and
different people speak those languages, society in the Mantaro valley) IEP, Lima 1986.
it all becomes even more complex. La lengua del Naylamp. Recons-truccción y
Furthermore, Spanish is spoken to a obsolescencia del mochi-ca. (The Naylamp
language, Reconstruction and obsolescence
greater or lesser extent throughout the of the Mochicas) PUCP, Lima, 1995. Lingüís-
country, coming into contact with all tica aimara. (Aymara Linguistics) Centro
James Orton, The Andes and the Amazon, N. York, 1876.
this linguistic diversity and creating Bartolomé de las Casas, Cusco, 2000. Caste-
situations in which the Spanish llano andino. Aspectos sociolingüísticos, pedagógi-
cos y gramaticales (Andean Spanish. Socio-
language is more valued and respected have been caused precisely by the country. To this day, we still believe linguistic, pedagogic and grammatical
that its native counterparts. We cannot compulsion with which other forces that the homogenisation of individuals aspects). GTZ/PUCP, Lima, 1995. Lingüística
deny that, in certain sectors of our have dedicated themselves to tapping is the solution. The truth is, however, quechua (Quechua linguistics). C. B. de las
country, original native tongues are their natural resources, destroying the that the impediment has not been the Casas, Cusco, 2003.
strongly frowned upon and are never ecosystems, exploiting native people, existing diversity, but simply the way Alberto Escobar. Variaciones sociolin-güísticas
del castellano en el Perú (Socio-linguistic
used by the State system, not even for scaring away animals and practicing we have dealt with it. We have been
variations in Peruvian Spanish). IEP. Lima,
administrative or legal purposes. deforestation in entire hectares of unable to build the tower because we 1978.
This diversity is a reality that we forestland. decided to silence and violate others of Anna María Escobar. Contacto social y lingüís-
have no right to evade. Turning our It is as though many sectors of society a different culture or language. After tico: el español en contacto con el quechua en el
backs on the authenticity of these were driven by a Babel way of thinking, more than five centuries, we have been Perú (Social and linguistic contact: Spanish
in contact with Quechua in Peru). PUCP,
people is an attitude that has become which is also extremely comfortable, incapable of learning to live alongside
Lima 2000.
characteristic of our country. As if they because in some ways it justifies our them peacefully, respecting and valuing
Germán de Granda. Estudios de Lingüística
did not exist or as if their existence was indifference. Why worry about the differences rather than thinking Andina (Studies on Andean Linguistics).
uncomfortable or problematic, we have something that is a sign of backwardness about how we can become rich at PUCP, Lima 2002.
preferred to silence and conceal the and an obstacle for development? their expense. That is what the Babel Inés Pozzi-Escot. El multilingüismo en el Perú
natives’ circumstances, needs and We continue to believe that the myth tells us: the problem is not the (Multilinguism in Peru). C.B.C., Cusco 1998.
problems. This is doubly unfair, diversity is an impediment for building diversity itself, but the way men have Gustavo Solís. Las lenguas en la Amazonía Pe-
considering that many of their problems that tower that will make us grow as a dealt with it. ruana (Languages in the Peruvian Amazon).
FORTE-PE, Lima 2000.
Virginia Zavala. Desencuentro con la escritura.
Escuela y comunidad en los Andes peruanos
EXTINCT LANGUAGES IN PERU (Disenchantment with writing. School and
community in the Peruvian Andes). Red

T he Spaniards themselves confirmed the multilingualism that characterises our country during the first years of
para el Desarrollo de las Ciencias Sociales
(Social Sciences Development Network).
the Colony. They could not conceal their amazement at the tremendous variety of languages they were discovering. Lima, 2002.
For example, in 1588, Jesuit Acosta mentioned the existence of «a real jungle of languages»; Inca Garcilazo
himself explained in 1609 that «every province, every nation and in many places every town has a language of its Other publications on this subject
own that differs from that of its neighbours». Andrés Chirinos Rivera. Atlas lingüístico del
Perú. (Linguistic Atlas of Peru) CBC-
Ministry of Education, Cusco, 2001.
Many of the languages referred to by European chroniclers or travellers who rediscovered our country during the
José Antonio Salas. Diccionario mochica-cas-
XIX century, are now extinct. For example, the only evidence of the vast number of languages that the Spaniards tellano, castellano-mochica. (Mochica - Spanish,
came across in the north of Peru can only be found in the toponymy and in the records that certain chroniclers, Spanish – Mochica Dictionary) San Martín
colonial priests or travellers left as a legacy. We have all heard about the Mochica language, but are unaware of the de Porres University, Lima, 2002.
fact that there were also many others, such as the one referred to as pescadora (which was spoken in areas close to Alfredo Torero. Idiomas de los Andes: lingüís-
tica e historia (Andean Languages: linguistics
Lima) and the languages of Olmos, Sechura and Catacaos-Paita. It is difficult to determine the linguistic status and history). IFEA, Lima, 2002.
of these, but they do appear in certain documents, such as those of Jaime Baltazar Martinez Compañon, the bishop
of Trujillo who towards 1785 obtained a lexical list of some of the languages spoken in his jurisdiction. * Professor of the Pontificate Catholic
University, devoted to native languages.

Martinez Compañón himself also picked up some words of an important language called culle. Culle was a
language of the northern highlands that has now died out, although several words are still used in Cajamarca to
this day. An in-depth study of culle remains a pending task.

Some of the languages of the highland plains are no longer spoken, the two most prominent being puqina, which
the Spaniards considered a general language, and ch’imu, the ancient tongue of the Uros. Although Peruvian
Uros have lost their language, they still preserve their own identity, which differs from that of the Aymaras, even
though they speak the same language as the latter.

Finally, as far as the Amazon region is concerned, the extinction of languages is far more complex. At the present
time, the majority of the ethnic groups are clearly switching to Spanish and, therefore, losing their native tongues.
Many of these languages have already become extinct. Probably the saddest case is that of cocama cocamilla, a
language that was spoken throughout the Amazon region before the arrival of the Spaniards and was considered
important in both social and political terms. The breakdown of these idiomatic traditions is both clear and
imminent. If we want to preserve them, a genuine linguistic recovery policy is required in order to revive and
maintain all these traditions that are being silenced on a daily basis.

CHASQUI 3
THREE POETS OF THE FIFTIES
Three of the most prominent poets of the so-called «fifties generation» have died within the last three months. They were a
distinguished promotion of intellectual creators whose spontaneity was evident in every field of Peru’s contemporary culture. The
poetic works of Javier Sologuren, Washington Delgado and Francisco Bendezu stand out among the increasingly more valued
Peruvian poetry of the XX century.

FRANCISCO BENDEZÚ
Ode to the afternoon Oda a la tarde
J. Zapata, Caretas

You scream, Oh afternoon! The girls Gritas, ¡oh tarde! Las muchachas
huddled together on the balcony, dumbstruck, acodadas al balcón, enmudecidas,
notice you, and the automatons in a feverish state te perciben, y los autómatas que arden
groaning on the blue flooded roofs y gimen en azules azoteas anegadas.
You sing a solitary song and bleed to death! ¡Cantas solitaria y te desangras!
JAVIER SOLOGUREN
I have seen you clamouring with no arms Yo te he visto clamar sin brazos,
Cemetery of Gentiles cementerio de gentiles getting tangled in the barbed wire y enredarte en los alambres de púas
of deserted public walkways. de los desiertos paseos públicos.
Here is the existing éstos son los presentes I have seen you struggle naked Yo te he visto forcejear desnuda
human flesh la humana carne your armpits sweating glitter. con un sudor de escarcha en las axilas.
imprinted in fabric presa en tela
(shameful stains (manchas oprobios I have watched you dancing in the mirrors, Yo te he visto bailar en los espejos,
latest incarnations) encarnaciones últimas) and running through crimson-coloured squares y correr por plazas de amaranto,
and dust y el polvo telling the time without a watch y dar una hora sin relojes
to the caste shivering couples para las castas parejas que temblaban
what does the dust bring qué nos trae el polvo harassed by fervent lengthy telegrams. acosadas por un largo fulgor de telegramas.
from the wiped out area de la comarca extinta
I have seen you flee and bash your head Yo te he visto huir y destrozarte
he was dead still estuvo quieto muerto against the treacherous marble of the shady corner la frente contra el mármol aleve de la umbría,
yet nevertheless y sin embargo and, hurt, embracing the posts y abrazarte, herida, de los postes,
we heard him breathe lo oímos respirar and, sitting sweetly, filling y llenar, sentada dulcemente,
dragging himself arrastrarse the ponds with threads and ashes. de hilos y cenizas los estanques.
illuminated encendido
by the pure starlight por las puras luminarias I have scratched your dramatic cheek Yo he rayado tu dramática mejilla
with diamond nails or obsidian needles con uñas de diamante o agujas de obsidiana,
stardust polvo de estrellas and bitten your thin sword-like lips; y mordido tus labios delgados como espadas;
dusty earth tierras de polvo I have kissed your bust and bathed yo he besado tu busto y me he bañado
flower of light flor de lumbre in your halo of worn-out butterflies en tu halo de deshechas mariposas.
and gloom y de tiniebla
our irrevocable fare nuestro irrevocable alimento Towards which ancient copper waterfront ¿Hacia qué antiguo malecón de cobre
awaits us nos espera do you ride, like a ring, the raging conduces, como un aro, la furente
and hasty moon of terror? Women y desalada luna del terror? Las mujeres

Archivo Caretas
which part of us qué parte de nosotros bid you farewell with open thighs and bare feet te despiden con los muslos entreabiertos y descalzas,
would like to surrender quiere rendirse Whilst swallows and gramophones escort you. y te escoltan golondrinas y gramófonos.
now ya
to the dark labyrinth al laberinto oscuro Which impossibly dazzling waistline ¿Qué imposible cintura alucinante
and lie down y echarse do you pursue in the remote and crazy light? persigues en la luz remota y loca?
in silence a lo largo del silencio Which bonfire, green idol do you hurl yourself on? ¿A qué hoguera, ídolo verde, te abalanzas?
to sleep a dormir You sing and you sob. There is no-one left! Cantas y sollozas. ¡Ya no hay nadie!
amongst the throng entre el enjambre In the distance the wind sways the rusty swings. A lo lejos mece el viento columpios oxidados.
of the dead de los muertos
I adored your tremulous profile and your sullied eyes Yo adoré tu trémulo perfil y tus violados ojos
Poetry Poesía of a badly wounded lioness whilst the shady tinder angel de leona malherida y el turbio ángel de yesca
reservedly stood guard behind your shoulders. que detrás de tus hombros taciturno velaba.
Poetry, do not deny me your gifts Poesía, no me niegues tus dones I execrated your ring which dazzled beggars Yo execré tu sortija que encandilaba mendigos
any longer. I am all ears, por más tiempo. Tengo el oído atento, And typists hit on the back the neck by a pendulum. y mecanógrafas lisiadas de péndulo en la nuca.
ny eyes are wide open, as is my heart. los ojos despiertos, abierto el corazón.
I took you to cinemas and terraces and avenues Yo te llevé por cines y terrazas y alamedas
Poetry, what do you resemble, Poesía, ¿a qué eres igual, like a girlfriend. I waited for you on the edge como a una enamorada. Te esperé a la orilla
which is your twin, what is your secret? cuál tu gemelo, cuál tu secreto? of undulating plains embellished with statues de undantes planicies exornadas con estatuas,
If it is in solitude that your voices can be heard, Si es en soledad donde tus voces se oyen, and along sorrowful incomplete avenues y a lo largo de enlutadas avenidas inconclusas
I´ve waited for you only with my fire. en ella te he guardado sólo con mi deseo. I dragged you by the hair through snow platforms te arrastré de los cabellos por los atrios de la nieve.
If it a dream, I have done nothing else Si el sueño es, otra cosa no he hecho
but wander between the signs of night que vagar entre los signos de la noche, Afternoon of bleeding photographs and sandals Tarde de fotografías sangrantes y sandalias,
the flame in which I alienate myself llama en que me enajeno. Hail! Applause as you pass by! Hosanna! Hosanna! ¡salve! ¡Palmas a tu paso! ¡Hosanna! ¡Hosanna!
Carnations on your body lying on the berth! ¡Claveles a tu cuerpo yacente en la litera!
No. You do not resemble love No. No te pareces al amor ¡Alminares de azufre para tu horizonte desollado!
Sulphur minarets for your brazen horizon!
are its claws not gripping me forever? ¿No está para siempre en mí su garra? ¡Vítor! ¡Evohé! ¡Eya velar! ¡Aleluya!
Cheers! Hooray! Bravo! Alleluia!
I would even say no to sorrow or neglect diría aún a la pena o al olvido
if they were not our daily bread. si no fueran el pan de cada día.
But how close you are to my blood Pero qué cerca estás de mi sangre
Víctor Ch. Vargas, Caretas

and I only believe in the pain of having y sólo creo en el dolor de haberte visto.
seen you.

Javier Sologuren (Lima, 1921-2004) In addition to being a poet, he was an essay writer and
translator. He put his works of poetry together under the title Continuous life, which was re-
edited successively, and his prose in the volume Gravitations and tangents (1988). Sologuren Francisco Bendezú (Lima, 1928-2004) was awarded the National Poetry Award in 1957
received the National Poetry Award in 1960 and 1985 and directed La Rama Florida (The and 1966. He published Arte menor (Minor Art) (1960), Los años (The years) (1961) and
Flowery Branch) under an artisan seal, including several poems. Cantos (Songs) (1971), to which this Ode belongs.

CHASQUI 4
WÁSHINGTON
READINGS
DELGADO
A horse in the house

I keep a horse in the house.


FROM PAGANISM TO
SANCTITY
During the day he kicks the floor
next to the kitchen.
At night he sleeps at the foot of my bed.
His dung and his neighing
make life uncomfortable
in a small house. Historian Juan Carlos Estenssoro Fuchs (Lima, 1964) has published a stimulating
But what else can I do
as I amble towards death book on the native struggle to achieve integration into the cultural universe of
in a world on the verge of doom? Catholicism during the colonial period. Below are fragments of the introduction
What else but to keep this horse
as a pale shadow of the open fields
written by the author:

«
under the fresh air?
In the dead and anonymous city, The years of violence were an experience that chapters that may cause them to forget the global
among the nameless dead, I walk along
like one more corpse. made me aware of the grave responsibility of the architecture, I should like to provide some clues. The
People stare at me or ignore me, historian. It is the current urgency that revealed the global issue is the incorporation of Peruvian Indians
or swear, not knowing serious social and political consequences of his into the Catholic religion and the Catholic Church
that I keep a horse in my house. reasoning power. Using that power to invent (I hope theologians will allow me to make that
At night, I stroke his mane identities or nations (at least one was to be based on distinction). I intend to read the history of the native
and give him a lump of sugar
like they do in films. the Andean Utopia) in order to blame present population’s struggle to gain recognition as Christians
He looks at me meekly, his round eyes problems on the past (instead of using it to (which means being able to participate fully in the
seem ready to shed some tears. understand them) is inadmissible. It is also symbolic and institutional production of Catholicism).
Perhaps it is the smoke from the kitchen unacceptable to defend transcendental essentialisms Consequently, I shall also deal with the barriers that
or he feels desperate living in a that serve to advocate exclusion or discrimination prevented this integration and eventual autonomy.
twenty square meter yard
or sleeping in a bedroom (even though their definition may be opposed to the The book is written in chronological order, each
with a wooden floor. whole), as is becoming the trend again today. period characterized by different aspects: the
Sometimes I think Furthermore, it is dangerous to judge the supreme message of the doctrine and its words, gestures, rites
I should let him go free judge and to seek not only collective but hereditary and ceremonies, sermons, images, witchcraft, miracles
in search of his own death. guilt. Likewise, when defending the victim, one and sanctity. The setting closes in gradually, until
And the distant fields
without which I could not live? must be careful not to reduce the latter to that role, the story is focused on the city of Lima, but within a
I keep a horse in my house nor deny him the right to be or to want something framework that is extended chronologically to a
desperately chained else (…). panoramic coverage of the whole time span in the
to my dream of freedom. Not much has been produced regarding the final chapter. Some topics reappear throughout the
history of the colonial – native religious experience. book and I invite readers to try and follow them: the
Un caballo en la casa Besides the stories, evangelising institutions and the devil, life after death, the Incas, the transformations
Church, which are only useful when they have a of history, various forms of translation or transcription
Guardo un caballo en mi casa. sound empirical foundation, another trend consists (oral, written, artistic, musical) and the production
De día patea el suelo of an abundant production devoted to the religious and inventions of different traditions, their union and
junto a la cocina. movements of the XVI century (which was cut short their separation.
De noche duerme al pie de mi cama.
Con su boñiga y sus relinchos
after the critical evaluation of the Taki onqoy sources
hace incómoda la vida made by Ramos in 1933), as well as the idolatries
Juan Carlos Estenssoro Fuchs. Del paganismo a la santidad.
en una casa pequeña. and their extermination throughout the next (From Paganism to Sanctity) PUCP/IEP, Lima 2003, 586 pp.
¿Pero qué otra cosa puedo hacer century. In the latter field, it was Duviols (1971) feditor@pucp.edu.pe
mientras camino hacia la muerte who led the way and is still consulted for reference www.ifeanet.org.pe postmaster@ifea.org.pe
en un mundo al borde del abismo? On this subject, see also Ramón Mujica Pinilla. Rosa limensis.
¿Qué otra cosa sino guardar este caballo
purposes (…).
Mística, política e iconografía en torno a la patrona de América
como pálida sombra de los prados abiertos Having refused to publish some final conclusions (Rose of Lima, mystical theology, politics and iconography
bajo el aire libre? that would give the impression of a finishing point regarding America’s Patron Saint). IFEA/FCE/BCRP, Lima,
En la ciudad muerta y anónima, being imposed in order to guide readers into extensive 2001, 485 pp. www.fceperu.com.pe fonedit@bcrp.gob.pe
entre los muertos sin nombre, yo camino
como un muerto más.
Las gentes me miran o no me miran,
o maldicen y no saben
que guardo un caballo en mi casa.
En la noche, acaricio sus crines
y le doy un trozo de azúcar, ARKINKA: ONE HUNDREDTH ISSUE
como en las películas.
Él me mira blandamente, unas lágrimas
parecen a punto de caer de sus ojos redondos. Since it appeared in 1995, the monthly magazine Arkinka has played a prominent role among local architecture
Es el humo de la cocina o tal vez and art publications. With indisputable quality, its director, architect Frederick Cooper Llosa, has continued the
le desespera vivir en un patio
de veinte metros cuadrados saga of magazines like El Arquitecto Peruano (Peruvian Architect) founded by the late Fernando Belaunde Terry,
o dormir en una alcoba former architect and President of Peru; Plaza Mayo directed by urban planner
con piso de madera. Luis Dorich; and Medio de Construcción (Means of Construction) directed by
A veces pienso architect Adolfo Cordova for over 16 years.
que debería dejarlo irse libremente Arkinka is a good combination of the works of world-famous architects – from
en busca de su propia muerte.
¿Y los prados lejanos Piano to Siza, Nouvel, Moneo or Rogers to Cinari or Gelvy – and the main
sin los cuales yo no podría vivir? local architects. It combines the work of celebrated and innovating artists. It
Guardo un caballo en mi casa covers the urban planning of different cities, archaeological findings or
desesperadamente encadenado functional issues like museums, shopping centres, housing and interiors, in
a mi sueño de libertad. addition to heritage conservation, landscaping, architectural planning and a
few bold proposals.
Its director is also its main reporter. An untiring traveller, Cooper Llosa has
continued to travel around the world over the years, drawing himself and us
closer to the main examples of contemporary architecture. Arkinka is not
Wáshington Delgado (Cusco, 1927 - Lima, 2003) was a
poet and a professor in San Marcos University. He was
only a quality magazine, but a genuine promoter of culture. See
awarded the National Poetry Award in 1952. He collected www.arkinka.com.pe (Luis Maldonado Valz).
his works in Reunión elegida (1987) (Chosen Meeting). This
poem forms part of his latest book Historia de Artidoro
(Story of Artidoro) (1994).

CHASQUI 5
THE GREAT
An itinerant display reveals to the world the exceptional va
Qhapaq Ñan was the Main Andean Road during the time of the Incas, who developed an Andean road network around it, taking advantage of
of the Andean Highlands, totalling some 40,000 k., 23,000 of which have been recorded by archaeologists. Concerted actions by Peru, Bolivi
Inter-American Development Bank, these countries have started designing the Qhapaq Ñan integrated project, aimed at preserving its exce
of the world can continue walking on it. The itinerant display organized by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs with the help of the Nat
in the National Museum in Lima, at the Book Fair in Bogotá and in Quito. It w

Peregrinación al Señor de Qoyllor R’iti. Foto: J. Silva. Carnaval de la Isla de Taquile en el Titicaca. Foto: A. Balaguer.

Camino a Machu Picchu. Foto: M. d’Auriol.


Location and direction of the roads

T he route of Inca roads, which covered long distances, was


determined by a mixture of geographical and cultural factors.
Deserts, rugged terrain, damp or marshy areas and exceptionally
high regions were determining natural factors. The most
important cultural influences were generally highly populated
areas and/or areas where activities of specific interest to the
Incas took place, simply defined here as religious. military,
administrative and economic. Pre-Inca roads and centres also
influenced the direction of the Inca road network, although
this was the result of cultural and environmental factors as Guaman Poma (1615)
well. Such is the case of exclusively Inca roads.
Puerto Inca frente al Pacífico.
The construction of Inca roads was not blindly bound by any Foto: M. d’Auriol

straight line principle, as they often had to adapt to specific


environmental obstacles. Apparently they only made substantial
changes in the direction of an almost perfectly straight road
when a sensible adjustment to flat terrain was necessary.

John Hyslop, Qhapaq Ñan. El Sistema Vial Incaico (The Inca


Road System) Translation by Eduardo Arias. Andean Institute
of Archaeological Studies and Petroperú. Lima, 1992 .

See also Víctor W. Von Haguen. Los caminos del sol. (Roads of the sun)
Buenos Aires, 1958; The Royal road of the Inca. London, 1976. León
Strube Erdmann. Vialidad imperial de los Incas (Imperial roads of the Incas).
Córdoba, Argentina, 1963. Ricardo Espinosa. Capac Ñan-La Gran Ruta
Inca (Capac Ñan-The Great Inca Trail). Lima, Petroperú, 2001. Camino al reino de los Chachapoyas. Foto: J. Esquiroz.

CHASQUI 6
INCA TRAIL
alue of qhapaq ñan, the greatest Andean engineering works.
f the road networks built by previous or parallel cultures. Lengthwise, the Inca Trail covered five of the more than seven thousand kilometres
ia, Ecuador, Chile, Argentina and Colombia are aspiring to register the Inca Trail in UNESCO’s World Heritage List. With the support of the
eptional cultural and natural values, supporting the populations whose ancestors made it possible and ensuring that hikers from other parts
tional Institute of Culture and the Ricardo Palma University, under the sponsorship of other companies, has already been exhibited
will be visiting numerous cities in all five continents within the next few months.

«...One of the things I most admired as


I thought about and marvelled over this
kingdom, was how they could have built
such great and magnificent roads, what
kind of work force they required to do so
and what tools and instruments they
used to flatten mountains and break
through rocks in order to make them as
grand and wide as they are. It seems to
me that if the Emperor had wanted to
have another royal trail built like the one
that goes from Quito to Cuzco and then
from Cuzco to Chile, I believe he would
have had neither the strength nor the
manpower do so in spite of all his
supremacy, had it not been for such a
great order given by the Yungas...»

Pedro de Cieza de León


Chronicle on Peru, Part Two. 1553.
Machu Picchu, maravilla del mundo. Foto: J. Esquiroz.

Puente inca de Qeshwachaka. Foto: Max Milligan.


Valle del Colca. Foto: A. Balaguer.

E.G. Squier (1877)


C.R. Markham (1856). Puente sobre el Apurímac.

Tutorship: Cecilia Raffo, Alonso Ruiz Rosas, Marcelo Saco.


Introduction: Luis G. Lumbreras. Photographs: Alejandro Balaguer,
Jim Bartle, André Bartschi, Mylene d’Auriol, Jorge Esquiroz,
Roberto Fantozzi, Daniel Giannoni, Max Milligan, Heinz Plenge,
James Posso, Javier Silva, Alejandro Tello, Renzo Uccelli,
Manolo Urquizo, Felipe Varela, Walter H. Wust.
Acknowledgements: Jorge Flores Ochoa,
Bienvenida - Turismo Cultural del Perú.

CHASQUI 7
OUR DAILY
SEA
Bibliographical fishing: An appetising volume on Peruvian «Cebiches» and the Golden Book
of the National Fishery Association.
PRAISING AQUACULTURE purpuratos), prawns (litope-naeus
Pedro Trillo vannamei) and tilapia (oreochromis
niloticus), considered the fish of the

T
he fishing sector in Peru will nineties in the United States, which
only be able to grow within the has currently given rise to an
n e x t important project in the Poechos
ten years if we establish a firm State area in Piura. Corvina (micropogonias
policy favouring aquaculture. Our sp.), robalo (centropomus nigrescens)
main fishing grounds for pelagic and chita (anisotremus scapularis) are
species like anchovies, sardines and warm water fish that can be
mackerel have been fully exploited cultivated between Tacna and Paita,
and the volumes of catch achieved whereas mero (red grouper)
in 2000 for the production of fish (epinephelus sp.), red pargo (lutjanus
meal and fish oil were ten million guttatus) and congrio (genypterus
tons (9,750,000 MT). This is the maculatos) are tropical water species
maximum limit, which is very much that can be cultivated between
higher than the historic average for Máncora and Puerto Pizarro. There
the last twenty-five years [...]. is a foreign market for all these
species, although there is still no

P. Marcoy
Our fishing grounds for demersal fish basic science in this country for
like hake are constantly off limits, breeding them in captivity.
having been affected by the El Niño Nevertheless, some foreign
phenomenon and, according to companies that own hatcheries are
others, by constant over-fishing interested in joint ventures with lo-
practices. The recovery of this cal entrepreneurs.
biomass could take several years,
therefore it can no longer be «Lenguado» or sole (paralichthys
considered the driving force behind adpersus) requires more attention,
the fishing sector. since the Morro Sama station
(Tacna) of the Fishery
So far, it is evident that aquaculture Development Fund is about to
has not achieved the progress and implement a project for the
expansion that Peruvian society economically feasible development
expected, given its enormous of this species. Yellowfin tuna
development potential. Aquaculture (thunnus albacares) and large eye
is the only fishing activity capable of tuna (thunnus obesus) are species
generating high growth rates, wealth that develop in water temperatures
and employment, since there is a that exceed 20ºC, which can be
demand in the world market and, at found on the Tumbes coast.
the same time, it requires labour-
intensive technological processes. Salt water artemia (artemia sp.) can
Consequently, it is an ideal be cultivated in large coastal ponds
investment in a poor country with and in the salt marshes on the
limited capital. Peruvian coast. Used in the
hatcheries as feed during the first
Aquaculture is an economic activity stages of development of fish and
that can only exist over time if a crustaceans because of its high
firm and consistent protection of energy conversion powers, the
Calamar y pulpo.
the dynamic balance between the advantage of the artemia is that it
ecosystems that nourish it is can be placed in dry storage during
achieved. Those of us who practice «It is general knowledge that the natives of that coast had its egg stage for long periods of
aquaculture know that we have to one thing in common…. they adored the sea (….) they time.
adapt to climate, food and other
changes consistent with a healthy
treasured it for the benefits obtained from the fish that gave
ecosystem. them food to eat and manure for their land. In some parts of
the coast, they used sardine heads as manure. They called
the sea ‘Mamacocha’, which means Mother Sea, since it
OCEANIC WEALTH
fulfilled a mother’s duty of providing food».
Extract from the «Editor’s Words» in the
Christian Berque mentions that «Golden Book on Peruvian Fishing, National
among the species that Peru can Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, Commentaries Royal (1069) Fishery Association, Lima 2003, 402 pages
www.snp.org.pe snpnet@terra.com.pe
compete with are scallops (argopecten

CHASQUI 8
RECIPES 3 teaspoons of seasoning
CEBICHE: MONARCH OF RAW FOOD Salt and pepper
CEBICHE WITH BITTER Antonio Cisneros Place the celery, coriander, chilli,
ORANGES
lemon juice, salt, pepper, garlic and
800 grams of sword fish or «tollo de
F rench philosopher Henri Levi-Strauss, marinated in vinegar, mustard or lemon seasoning in a deep bowl. Stir and let
in his book Raw and Cooked, maintains juice have formed part of the common stand for 10 minutes. The juice should
leche» (dogfish) that the step from barbarianism to gastronomy of the many people living on
civilization was taken when primitive man the shores of the huge Pacific ocean since
turn white. Add the fish broth and stir.
½ kilo of bitter oranges
put his hand in the fire to cook his food. ancient times. However, the quantity, Place the fish and cuttlefish on a
½ tablespoon of crushed garlic
Gross mistake. Particularly coming from quality and frenzy with which they have platter. Stir and strain the mixture over
1 chilli pepper, seeded and thickly
a Frenchman, since maigret de canard (slices been incorporated into our gastronomy the fish and cuttlefish.
chopped of semi-raw duck) is one of the main dishes are difficult to compete with.
1 large red onion sliced thinly and of French haute cuisine. In general, the Consequently, many of my fellow
washed majority of the most refined cuisine on countrymen are convinced that God is
the planet includes marvels that have not Peruvian and that without a doubt, cebiche TIGER’S MILK
Salt
2 potatoes or maniocs been punished by fire. Raw and Cooked, is a work of God.
therefore, are not excluding terms. In its The truth is that there are many ways 100 grams of filets of sole
2 purple sweet potatoes, boiled own way, Peru is also a kingdom of raw of preparing cebiche. In other countries they Juice of 10 lemons
1 ear of corn, boiled food. tend to either parboil the fish or soak it in 1 sprig of celery
Lettuce leaves Several thousand years before the lemon juice until it is practically cooked.
1 «limo» chilli pepper
splendour of the Lord of Sipan, the Long hours of soaking in lemon juice results
inhabitants of our coast lived almost in bland, insipid food. Different ingredients 1 clove of garlic
Chop and wash the fish. Place in a
exclusively off the abundant food are also used. In some areas, magnificent Salt, pepper and seasoning
bowl and season with the salt, crushed
provided by the Pacific Ocean. black scallops are drenched in tomato sau- Coriander
garlic and orange juice. Add the chilli Magnificent fish like the mero or corvine, ce. In others, pieces of avocado, corn Fish broth
and stir. Leave standing for 10 minutes for example, did not need to be treated pancakes and tomatoes are added to the
and then add the onions. Serve by fire to be enjoyed in all their freshness. fish. However, I think the worst sacrilege
Fish and seafood straight out of the water of all is to submerge a puny sort of cebiche
Blend the ingredients and add
accompanied with boiled potatoes or
were often seasoned with chilli and other in thick, oily mayonnaise. The real reason enough fish broth to reduce the acid
manioc, sweet potatoes and corn.
hot spices. Nevertheless, once their scales for this and other unfortunate versions, is taste of the lemon juice. Strain and
Garnish with lettuce leaves.
and bones were removed, they were often the fear of raw food. A delightful fish serve in small cocktail glasses. Small
left soaking in bitter fruit juice which, in dulled by lemon juice and tomato sauce is pieces of fish, fried squid or corn can be
addition to adding a touch of flavour, virtually an embarrassment, an evil added before serving.
TIRADITO AL FRESCO served as a marinade. concealment of the animal’s radiant nature.
When the Spaniards arrived in the That is why fish should be as fresh as
600 grams of fish filets (corvina) XVI century, they brought key limes from fruit. In this case, letting it stand for a few
North Africa, as well as onions and garlic minutes in the citrus juice is more than PANTHER’S MILK
12 ounces of olive oil – heritage of the people of the enough. There should be no great delay
6 ounces of white vinegar Mediterranean coast. This contribution between slicing a good piece of sole, for 30 large black scallops
1 teaspoon of crushed garlic complemented the ingredients that example, and taking a bite of it. Even
4 large green lemons
2 ounces of lemon juice created the majestic «cebiche», supreme though cebiche is generally considered a
ruler of an entire dynasty of Peruvian raw national heritage, as far as I am concerned, 1 teaspoon of salt
Salt
dishes. Although the popular cebiche, or it is on the northern coast of this country 1 teaspoon of crushed garlic
2 ears of corn
the different varieties of cebiche to be that it is prepared as it should be: a thin ¼ teaspoon of ground black pepper
more precise, had decked dining tables bed of lemon juice, a hint of garlic, salt, 1 teaspoon of chilli paste
Slice the fish thinly and place in a throughout the Peruvian coast for hot chilli peppers (with yellow, purple and 1 teaspoon of seasoning
bowl. Prepare a dressing with the centuries, it was Manuel Atanasio Fuen- red skin) and a few, just a few slices of
vinegar, lemon, salt, garlic and olive oil. tes, alias «El murciélago» (the bat) who onion. Sweet potatoes (or manioc) and
first mentioned it in writing in his corn can be used as garnish, but they are Open the black scallops and reser-
Serve the sliced fish covered with this
Traveller’s Guide to Lima, published in not essential. ve the pulp and juice. Chop the pulp
dressing and accompanied by corn.
1866. In his learned Frenchified way, There is also a different variety of finely, add lemon juice, salt, chilli and
Manuel Atanasio Fuentes launched forth cebiche among us, referred to as «tiradito». seasoning. Add the scallop juice and
against the virtuous cebiche. «The The name comes from the word season to taste. Serve in small cocktail
TIRADITO DE AJÍ AMARILLO eminently national dishes that commoners «estiradito» (stretched), because the fish
relish with so much pleasure are spicy hot, is actually stretched and sliced diagonally, glasses.
800 grams of sole filets but the hottest of all spicy hot dishes which Japanese style. In fact, this dish is also
brings the most tears to your eyes (after considered to have Japanese influence. In
The juice of 12 lemons jealousy) is the seviche». Nevertheless, this famous dish, as soon as the fish is put Cebiches del Perú. Editor: Walter H. Wust.
1 kilo of chilli peppers despite his aversion and contempt, he left into the lemon juice, it is slightly covered Texts by Antonio Cisneros, Alejandro
Milk us a recipe of the dish: «It consists of small with a yellow chilli cream without any Ferreyros, Luis Jochamovitz, María
Salt, pepper and seasoning pieces of fish or shrimps on which the juice onions or any other garnish. Besides the Rosto-rowski, Raúl Vargas and Walter H.
of bitter oranges is poured, with a lot of classical fish, i.e. the thousand and one Wust. Backus. Lima, 2004, 186 pp.
Corn www.backus.com.pe
chilli; it is left standing for several hours different kinds of fish, cebiche can also be
made of shrimps, prawns, sea urchins, See also the multimedia collection Gas-
until the fish is impregnated with the chilli
Remove seeds from the chilli and is practically cooked by the caustic scallops, clams and razor clams. The tronomía/Sabores del Perú y del Mundo
peppers and boil for 5 minutes, (Gastronomy/Peruvian and World Flavours)
action of the latter and the bitterness of greatness of Peru’s raw dishes is largely
Marking Perú/Diario Correo. Lima, 2004.
changing the water three times. Blend the oranges». due to the generosity of the Pacific, referred
with a drop of oil to form a paste. Slice There is no doubt that various to in the old days as the South Sea.
the fish into 1/2 centimetre wide strips. varieties of fish and other seafood
Add the salt and seasoning to taste.
Stir in the lemon juice, chilli paste,
parsley and milk until creamy. Serve The fact that the natives always considered food important is expressed in the saga of
with corn and garnish with slices of hot the legendary Naylamp, who arrived on the beaches of what is now Lambayeque with
bell peppers and chopped parsley. a fleet of balsas and an important entourage, including the Lord’s cook and beverage
maker. The appreciation of a cook’s skills prompted the inhabitants of the Reque area
in the north of the country halfway through the XVI century, to elect their head cook
Edeco as their chief.
TIRADITO DE LENGUADO Y In Peru, every region has a mosaic of local dishes, each one better than the next.
PULPO The correct preparation of a meal was a constant concern among native people.
Consequently, they acquired the ability to dehydrate different kinds of meat – llamas,
300 grams of fresh sole cut in strips deer, vizcacha (South American rodent), pigeons and partridges – using complicated
300 grams of boiled cuttlefish rings systems to obtain the product known as «charqui», which was easy to preserve in their
«collcas» or storehouses. Likewise, fishermen salted and dried their fish in the sun,
100 grams of chopped celery together with various species of shellfish and seaweed. Due to the wealth of the marine
8 sprigs of coriander, chopped resources, enough fish were caught to cover the local demand, giving rise to barter
The juice of 10 or 12 green lemons trade between coastal and highland people.»
Half a «limo» chilli pepper, seeded and
thinly sliced María Rostworoski. El cebiche en la comida prehispánica
1 cup of fish broth (Cebiche in pre-Hispanic food).
¼ teaspoon of crushed garlic

CHASQUI 9
A STORY ABOUT HISTORY
A forthcoming publication in Spain of the fourth volume of Spanish American History from the point of
view of Children, by the prominent Peruvian author Juan Acevedo.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT I never imagined It’s not that It is the history of Fine «development»! Could they not have AUTHOR’S WORDS
THE AUTHOR that the Incas they were humanity. Some people done that respecting others?
were so bad! bad, Achori! developed
Gustavo Gutiérrez By dominating The idea of writing this story came to
mind in Florencio Varela, an area on the

J
others….

uan Acevedo had already ventu- outskirts of Buenos Aires. It was April of
red into writing short stories about 1990 and I was attending the II Latin
history. He now presents us with
Well…. American Encounter of Poor Children,
That’s what happened. Things were as an observer. The majority of them were
an ambitious attempt to give an not that easy. children who worked on the streets or at
account of Spanish American history
home; poor children from nearly twenty
not only for children, but – perhaps
countries. They chatted, laughed,
even more relevant and difficult – from Easy or The Incas developed by taking advantage of the enquired about each other’s lives, gave
their point of view, turning them into difficult, I contributions made by the Andean cultures
accounts of their own lives, played during
would not that preceded them…
the discoverers of a new world. like to be the breaks, presented and backed up
Their experiences become our dominated....
.
their situation during the assemblies. I
own, their ignorance that which we watched them in amazement, marvelling
dare not confess; we experience their at the different ways they integrated and
surprises as though we ourselves were kept their distance. I listened to their
.....They organised a Pan-Andean state with a more
the characters of this story, their joys extensive road network that that of the Roman Empire. different Spanish accents and watched
relax us, their sense of humour keeps them overcome their language barriers,
us alert and cheerful. Entertained, Were the Inca roads the greatest Why do you say even with the Brazilian street children,
smiling, we walk backwards in time in the world? «they were»? They
recognizing themselves within a greater
Yes are the greatest roads
and forward in knowledge. in the world! identity.
Let us not deceive ourselves, however. This is Latin America, I said to
The ease with which we go back and myself; I have to do something for these
forth alongside the author indicates his children, help their relationships. In my
demanding and meticulous preparation case, «doing something» nearly always
of the subjects dealt with. An account means writing a story. I once heard a
Achori….
can only be written with such clarity by Mexican peasant say that «stories are
someone who masters the subject. The gifts from God. They allow us to see
timely reproduction of artistic expressions Stand aside! Here Hello, friend! What news do ourselves». In view of this revelation, I
and documents of different kinds are comes the Inca mail! you bring? Has decided to narrate the history of Latin
anything serious
further proof of this. A Chaski! occurred? America for boys and girls, mainly from
There is no doubt that Juan is a skilful their point of view.
communicator. He communicates Juan Acevedo. The history of Spanish America
directly and effectively, but he also leads from the point of view of children. Organisation
us into communion – a term with the Achori!
of American States / Spanish American
Cooperation Secretariat, Volume I, Madrid,
same root as communicate – with a very
2000. Volume II, Madrid 2001. Volume III,
human and sensitive way of looking at Madrid, 2002. Volume IV covers the Viceroy
and understanding life. period to the present time.

Stop, you fool! He will not reply to your


PERUVIAN COMIC STRIPS Stop! questions!

S ome people maintain that the


history of Peruvian comic strips
dates back to Guaman Poma de Ayala’s
the astronaut Chépar also made their
appearance. Canillita (1950) was the
longest lasting comic strip, even
New Chronicle and Good Government though it was not as successful as
(1615). In fact, it dates back to the end Avanzada (1953-1967).
Why? Is he dumb?
of the XIX century. As an extension of Faced with the publicist official
Are you not familiar with Will he give There are hundreds of Chaskis. Each one covers a stretch
caricatures associated to political and publications of the seventies, Juan the Inca mail service? If the Inca his and passes on the message to another until it reaches its
social satire, comic strips were Acevedo burst in with illustrative you interrupt their work, message? destination.
you will be punished!
incorporated into publications such as publications like Monos y Monadas
the celebrated Monos y Monadas early (second stage), Collera, El Idiota
in the XX century. The first special llustrado and No!. Towards the end
comic strip, Palomilla, appeared in 1940, of the eighties, etiqueta negra and
followed by Clímax (1943). The Buum! made a fleeting appearance,
prominent author during these first prior to a new impetus that resulted
decades was Pedro Challe, creator of in seven issues (1993 – 2000) of the The Chaskis go to the tampus, which are situated a day’s distance from
When a Chaski arrives, a good
Gordete y Calambrito. Junior Comic Strip Competition meal and a drink await him so that one another. They are looked after by the mitayok from a nearby town.
During the second decade, organized by the Calandria he can build up his strength.

Peruvian comic strips brought to life Association. Recent marginal Mitayok?


Juan Santos, an Andean protagonist publications like Resina, ¡Pánico!,
of endless adventures, as well as Su- Crash, Boom,Zap!/TuMay Komiks,
per Cholo, a native version of Carboncito and Pandemonio are still
Superman. The native Manyute and in circulation. (S. Carrasco). Where do they go?
Who looks after them?

CHASQUI 10
SOUNDS OF PERU
VOZ PROPIA – LOS DÍAS Y LAS tro), but also a careful exercise of taken advantage of the launching of Masacre), has performed with the old
SOMBRAS (Independent new edition, interpretation. So far this year, the her first record as a soloist to thoroughly theatre group Cuatrotablas, was the
Lima, 2003) guitarist has also published two volumes review the foundations of what we musical director for Tania Libertad and
simultaneously, Compositions Volume 1 could call her «artistic temperament». Susana Baca, has been a producer, and
Voz Propia is one of the emblematical and The best of Javier Echecopar. It is Here the singer with a clear, versatile so on….. This CD compiles some of
groups of the Peruvian rock scene in worth mentioning that these voice, not only resorts to the essential the most important work of Chavez in
recent decades. Embracing the same compositions are interpreted on a composers in Peru’s traditional song the artistic world, as well as his
ideas ridden with melancholy and Joseph Benedid guitar that dates back book, such as Chabuca Granda, Da- compositions for «Prometeo» and «Sue-
hopelessness that characterize its main to 1812. niel «Kiri» Escobar and Alicia Maguiña. ño de una noche de verano»
Anglosaxon ancestors (from The Cure Instead, she decided to explore the ever (Midsummer Night’s Dream), besides
to Joy Division), the post Punk group sinuous and risky work of putting music the contemporary dancing show
from Lima reached its peak in this ELSA PALAO – TE CANTO MI to texts that were originally conceived «Enrevelo» interpreted by dancer Karin
album, originally published in 1997 and VIDA (Independent, 2004) as poems rather than songs. The Aguirre in 2002. Assorted and full of
now in circulation again. Very few Kenyara trio is responsible for the music, atmosphere.
records of Peruvian rock bands can be Having performed for over two along with other prestigious Peruvian
labelled as essential, but this is one of decades, interpreter Elsa Palao has musicians like Agustin Rojas and
them, as is the song that this album is Leonardo Parodi. TURBOPÓTAMOS (Mundano
named after. Records, 2004)

CHINO CHÁVEZ – FISURAS (L25, Peruvian rock has been claiming fresh
JAVIER ECHECOPAR – THE 2003) new independent and innovating voices
GUITAR IN PERUVIAN BAROQUE for a long time. This quartet from Lima
MUSIC (Acem & Aica, 2004) For the past three decades, Alberto has been filling a gap within the so-
Chavez has done just about everything called «new rock». To the beat of a style
Javier Echecopar has devoted a large in the music world. He has performed they themselves named «skabilly», a
part of his musical career to bringing in bands such as Tiempo Nuevo and TV combination of ska and rockabilly (the
out the so-called «music cult» made in Color, made a long pilgrimage through favourite subgenus of their leader, the
Peru. This recovery of some lost all local stages as a songwriter, been charismatic Humberto Campodonico,
breakthroughs of the Peruvian baroque responsible for the incidental music of one of the best young guitarists in Peru),
guitar not only required a meticulous theatre productions and contemporary the Turbo-pótamos are one of the current
Archivo Caretas.

study of manuscripts dating back to the dance shows, is the founder of a Peruvian bands whose music deserves
XVIII century (The book by Zif and the trademark for recordings of popular to be divulged. They will be much
music for guitar book by Matias Maes- rock bands (including Leusemia and talked about (Raúl Cachay).

AGENDA CHASQUI
Peruvian Mail
Cultural Bulletin

GREAT EXHIBITIONS III SCIENTIFIC ENCOUNTER the loss of archaeological assets on the MINISTRY OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS
research of ancestral uses and customs. Sub-secretariat of Foreign Cultural Policies
This year, Peru also organised three great The III International Scientific Winter In this respect, it is worth mentioning that Jr. Ucayali 363 - Lima , Perú.
exhibitions. The first of these, Perú: Encounter – ECIi will be held from 30th the UNESCO approved the International Telephone: (511) 311-2400 Fax: (511) 311-2406
Tremila Anni de Capo Lavor held in the July until 2nd August 2004. Like the Deontology Code for Cultural Asset E-mail: postmaster@rree.gob.pe
Web: www.rree.gob.pe
Palazzo Strozzi in Florence until last ECIv held in the summer, the purpose Negotiators, which can be found in
February, exhibited a noteworthy of this event is to disseminate the www.unesco.org/culture/legalprotection The articles are the responsibility of their
collection of Pre-Colombian works of scientific breakthroughs of national authors. This bulletin is distributed free of
art. The curator was Antonio Aimi, researchers, reveal the studies being charge by Peruvian Missions abroad.
assisted by the National Institute of undertaken at an international level IMPORTANT DONATION FOR
Translated by:
Culture. and strengthen the collaboration PERUVIAN LIBRARIES ABROAD Doreen Fisher
Another exhibition, Perú indígena y between researchers in this country
virreinal, was held in the Cataluña and their colleagues abroad. This III Within the framework of the recent Printing:
Museum of Art in Barcelona. It is a Encounter is organised by the National Co-operation Agreement for the Tarea Asociación Gráfica Educativa
testimony of our syncretism, displaying Telecommunications Research and Promotion of Peruvian Cultural Securities Telephone: 424-8104

235 pieces, including paintings, Training Institute. Registration is open. Abroad signed by the Ministry of
sculptures, pottery, silverware, furniture For further information, see web page Foreign Affairs and the San Martin de
BUSINESS DIRECTORY
and others. This exhibition was www.cienciaperu.org/eci2004i/ Porres University, the latter donated
organised by Spain’s State Association sixty lots of thirty books each from its PROMPERÚ
for Cultural Action Abroad and the RED LIST Publishing Fund, to be distributed Peruvian Promotion Commission
National Institute of Culture. The among our embassies. This is a valuable Calle Oeste No. 50 - Lima 27
curators were Juan Ossio, Jaime The recent publication of the ICOM Red contribution that enhances the Telephone : (511) 224-3279
Fax: (511) 224-7134
Mariaza, Juliana Ugarte Garay and Ra- List of Endangered Latin American Cultu- Peruvian cultural libraries promoted by E-mail: postmaster@promperu.gob.pe
fael López Guzmán, It will be open until ral Assets – presented in the National the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in its Web: www.peru.org.pe
August 15th and will then move to the Museum of Anthropology in Lima last missions abroad, which can be
National Library in Madrid. May 18th, will help police agents to consulted by fellow countrymen and PROINVERSIÓN
Investment Promotion Agency
Finally in September, the promptly identify cultural objects the public in general. Among the titles Paseo de la República No. 3361
Metropolitan Museum of New York will reported missing. The Red List is also an included in the donation is an important piso 9 - Lima 27
welcome a notable exhibition of appeal to museums, auction houses, series on Peruvian gastronomy. For Telephone: (511) 612-1200
Peruvian Viceroy art, under the merchants and collectors to stop buying further information on the Publishing Fax: (511) 221-2941
responsibility of Helena Phipps and such objects. In addition, it fills a gap by Fund of the San Martín de Porres Web: www.proinversion.gob.pe
Johanna Hecht. warning about the irreparable effects of University, see www.usmp.edu.pe ADEX
Association of Exporters
Av. Javier Prado Este No. 2875 - Lima 27,
Telephone: (511) 346-2530
Fax : (511) 346-1879
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DISTRIBUIDOR EXCLUSIVO EN EL PERÚ Jr. Alcanfores No. 1245 - Lima, 18
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CHASQUI 11
THE AFRO
PERUVIAN CAJÓN
Rafael Santa Cruz, heir to a great tradition of Afro-Peruvian culture, has published the most complete
study paying tribute to this instrument, which has become the musical icon of our country. Below is a
chapter of his recent book.

ANCIENT STYLES the box uncovered.


When a trio or a group play cajones,
Beat that cajón all three boxes tend to have similar
Finish breaking it measurements and they also sound
For in the master’s house alike. In Cuba, however, cajón
There will never be a shortage orchestras are formed with instruments
of cajones of different sizes and sounds; the largest
Folklore
box sounds heavier and is called tum-
ba, and the one that makes sharper

E
xperts Fernando Ortiz, Fernando
sounds is called quinto. When a cajo-
Romero and Nicomedes Santa
nes group or orchestra is formed in Peru,
Cruz coincide in pointing out that
the one that strikes the basic rhythm is
the cajón is no more than a hundred
referred to as cajón llamador and the
years old and that it reached its apogee
one that peals or brandishes the tune or
early in the XX century or no earlier
plays solos is called repicador. This
than the end of the XIX century.
depends on the role of the player rather
It was probably only then that cajo-
than on the size or sound of the
nes began being made strictly for musi-
instrument. These names stem from
cal purposes. Until that time, the cajón
the functions of membrane drums.
was no more than an «ordinary box»
The drummers usually carry out these
used as a musical accompaniment for
functions by turns. In the old days, the
certain Afro Peruvian and Creole songs
most experienced drummer was the one
and dances. They did not have the
who played the «repique» .
finish of current cajones and some of
Nicomedes Santa Cruz Gamarra,
those old instruments even sounded as
who has been writing newspaper articles
though they were cracked.
on this instrument since the sixties,
Early in 1900, cajón players did not
entitled «His majesty the cajón», tells
sit on their instrument. Many of them
us that «as far as the non-industrial ma-
sat on a chair or a stool and held the
nufacture of the current cajón is
box slightly tilted backward between
concerned, there is a large variety of
their legs, leaning against the stool or
styles and sizes: flat ones with a handle,
their thighs, whilst they tapped on the
rather like a James Bond briefcase; large
front of the box with their hands.
and clumsy ones like a coffin; some
The percussion box as we know it
small; others varnished, polished,
now, shaped like a «column» (because
painted white, green, black, or red and
it is taller than it is wide), is the one
white like the Peruvian flag; with the
referred to as the Peruvian Cajón. For a
monogram of the musical centre or the
long time, however, the cajón was not
initials of its owner; adorned with gilt
as deep and was laid on its side,
tacks, and so on. No two cajones are
therefore it looked wider than it was
alike, although none of the new batch
tall. In order to distinguish one model
of drummers play them any
from the other in this book, we shall
differently». The last line sounds rather
use the term column box.
like a complaint about the appearance
The Creole cajón gave way as Afro
of these new percussionists and the lack
Peruvian music became popular,
of their own style or personality when
although it is still being used. Some
sitting on their instrument.
cajón-makers made a Creole version
Typical Lima party with a peruvian
with strings placed in the lower part of
cajón, a peruvian cajita and a donkey’s
the box, leaning on the cover to imitate
jaw. Photographs: Aníbal Solimano
the sound and system of the rolling
Jarana limeña con
drum or tarola. This version also later cajón, cajita y quijada
gave way to the column box. Some de burro. Fotos:
Aníbal Solimano /
cajones are not parallelepiped, as PROMPERÚ

different geometric shapes and various


measurements have been tried. dividing the front of the box in two, so This effect can also be obtained with Rafael Santa Cruz. El cajón afroperuano (Afro-
Peruvian Cajón). Cocodrilo Verde Publishers,
The Creole cajón is always played that half the box is on either side of the the column box, although the player,
Lima 2004, 177pages. The book includes a
by the drummer sitting on the leg. Sometimes the right side of the once seated on the instrument, usually multimedia CD with audio and image
instrument, with one leg in the middle, instrument was used for «duller» beats. spreads his legs, leaving the front of explanations.

CHASQUI 12

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