French Girl

FANTINE
in Rowan Big Wool

DESIGNS IN KNIT AND CROCHET

Kristeen Griffin-Grimes

©French Girl 2006 please do not reproduce without permission all rights reserved images © rain Grimes 2006
 FG024

FANTINE
French Girl GOODS
Kristeen Griffin-Grimes

Rowan Big Wool (87yds/80m) Shown in Glamour & Black (2-4)

XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL) Finished bust: 31.5 (33.5, 35.5, 37.5,
39.5, 41.5, 43.5)”/80 (85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110) cm
FANTINE is about fun…and a fast finish! Knit in Rowan Big
Wool, the design uses only 2-4 balls (depending on version
chosen), some great vintage buttons, and you are out the door
feeling quite proud of yourself…and well you should be!
Available in 3/4 & cap sleeve versions with scoop or mandarin
collar necklines. test knit: caroline perisho
tech editor: alexandra virgiel
MANDARIN COLLAR, CAP SLEEVE VERSION:
Cap sleeve versions: 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4) balls.
3/4 sleeve versions: 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls.
Knitting needles, #17(12 mm) circular & double pts(for 3/4 sleeve);
vintage buttons, tapestry needle, markers, crochet hook(optional).
MEASURE
GAUGE
8 sts & 12 rows= 4”x 4” (10cm x 10cm) in stockinette stitch using
#17(12mm) needles.
SIZING
Top-down construction allows you to try on top and adjust the
length or number of increases if necessary.
SKILLS:
CO--cast on; BO--bind off
Dec--decrease
Inc--increase (where not otherwise specified, use M1)
K2tog--knit 2 together
Kinc--knit into front and back of next stitch
LCS (left cross st)--k into back of 2nd st on left needle, k into front
of 1st st on left needle, drop original 2 sts from left needle. Note:
Pull up sts snugly to match RCS.
M1-- make one by inserting right needle from the back under strand
between two needles, lifting strand onto left needle, then knitting
into back of strand to twist it.
PM--place marker
RCS (right cross st)--K into front of 2nd st on left needle, K into front
of 1st st on left needle, drop original 2 sts from left needle.
SKP--Slip 1, Knit 1, Pass slipped st over
SM--slip marker

CO 35 (35, 35, 41, 41, 41, 41) sts using the cable cast on method.**
Collar
Row 1 (RS): (LCS, P1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, place a marker in last purl st made (center back marker), (RCS, P1) 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6)
times, RCS.
Row 2 (WS): (P2, K1) to last 2 sts, P2.
Row 3: As row 1. Remove center back marker.
Row 4: Working in established P2, K1 rib pattern, work 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts,PM, work 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts,PM, work 13 (13, 13, 15,
15, 15, 15) sts, PM, work 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5) sts, PM, work to end. Mark the beginning and end of this row to show end of collar/begin-
ning of body. The first button loop will begin here.
Yoke
Row 5 (increase row): LCS, P1, LCS, (work to 1 st before marker, kinc, sm, kinc) 4 times, work to last 5 sts, RCS, P1, RCS--8 sts
inc’d.
Row 6 and all WS rows: P2, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Repeat rows 5 & 6: 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 11) times more, then repeat row 5 only once more--99 (107, 115, 121, 129, 137, 145) sts.
Before separating the sleeves from the body, slip all sts on string to try on and determine proper fit. Try garment on, making sure
mandarin collar is positioned correctly at neck closure (with collar standing up and edges meeting, pin together temporarily). Determine
whether enough increases have been worked to make a comfortable armhole, keeping in mind that an additional 1”/2.5cm of stitches
will be added under the arm. If more length is needed, work additional increase row(s) and try garment on again. If a longer cap sleeve
is desired, work additional increase row(s) EXCEPT work increases only on front & back body sides of the markers, not in the sleeve
sections (4 increases total).
Bind off sleeves: On next WS row, removing markers as you come to them, p2, k1, then p to first marker, BO all sts between first and
second markers, p to third marker, BO all sts between 3rd and 4th markers, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Join fronts to back: Next row (RS): LCS, p1, LCS, k to sleeve opening, CO 4 sts as foll: turn work to reverse side and use cable
method to cast on 4 sts, marking the first and last CO sts. Turn work to front and K across back. Cast on 4 sts at second sleeve opening
and PM as before, K across front to last 5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS. Front and back are now joined -- 67(71,75,79,83,87,91) sts.
Body
Next row(WS):Removing markers as you come to them,p2, k1, p to 1 st before marked CO st at underarm, *P2tog, P2, P2tog,*P across
back to 1 st before marked CO st at underarm, rep from * to *, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2--63 (67, 71, 75, 79, 83, 87) sts.
**Please visit our website (www.frenchgirlknits.com) or e-mail us (frenchgirlknits@yahoo.com) for information.
©French Girl 2006 Please do not reproduce without permission. All rights reserved. non commercial use only. images ©rain Grimes 2006
 -3-
FG024
FANTINE
Kristeen Griffin-Grimes
Next row (RS): LCS, p1, LCS, k to last 5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS.
Next row: P2, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2. Une Petite Note: Short Row Bust Shaping
If short row shaping is desired, see sidebar for instructions. For most sizes with C cup or larger bust, short rows can make
If short row bust shaping is not needed, repeat last 2 rows until desired length the difference between a good fit and a superior one. To calcu-
(less 2”/5cm for border) is reached (suggested final length: 11.5-13.5”/29- late positioning of short rows, after joining garment and working
34cm from cast on). Inc (dec, - , inc, dec, -, inc) 2 (2, -, 2, 2, -, 2) sts at center a few rows, try on and measure down from shoulder to apex of
back and/or side seams on last row to make a multiple of 3 + 2 sts--65 (65, bust (garment will not have reached this length yet); making a
71, 77, 77, 83, 89) sts. note how many inches more that will be from where you ended.
Border Then measure horizontally from that point to where side seam
Row 1 (RS): (LCS, p1) 11 (11, 12, 13, 13, 14, 15) times, place a marker in would be (make a note where that is). Using your 1st measure-
last purl st made (center back marker), (RCS, p1) 10 (10, 11, 12, 12, 13, 14) ment and stitch gauge, calculate how many rows until short
times, RCS. rows are to begin: divide row gauge (in this case,12 rows) by the
Row 2 (WS): (P2, k1) to last 2 sts, p2. gauge measure(4in/10cm) to give the number of rows per inch
Repeat rows 1 & 2 once more. Bind off loosely in pattern. Weave in ends. (in this case 3 rows). So if your measurement to bust apex was
Buttons & buttonloops 2”(5 cm) you would begin short rows after 6 more rows. Begin
Create button loops by attaching yarn to spot marked on right front edge at by placing markers on garment at bust apex and side seams.
base of collar. Then, either crochet a chain and attach to right side about On first short row,* work to within 2 sts of 1st side seam marker,
1/2”/1cm below marker, secure and weave in ends, or with tapestry needle, with yarn in front, sl nxt st to rhn, wrap yarn around st as you slip
work buttonhole st over a length of yarn secured from marker to 1/2”/1cm be- it back to lhn. Turn work to reverse side and work back to within
low marker. Repeat for second buttonloop, spacing as desired. Sew buttons 3 sts of 1st bust marker; repeat wrapping and turning, then work
on left side, using a flat button on underside of work to secure top button. back, (add one more set of short rows here as necessary, work-
ing to 2 sts of last wrapped st). When finished with that side’s
Mandarin collar, 3/4 sleeves short row, continue to work across to remaining side, picking
Cast on and work Collar and Yoke as for cap sleeve version. Try on and up horizontal bar of wrapped st and working it together with st
adjust fit, if necessary, as for cap sleeve version, keeping in mind that another on needle(hiding wrapped st).Remove seam marker, work to
1” of stitches will be added at the underarm, and that additional width may be other side to within 3 sts of next bust marker, repeat wrapping &
added if desired at the beginning of the Sleeve instructions. turning, working to within 2 sts of that side seam marker, repeat
Separate sleeves from body wrapping & turning, (adding more sets of short rows if neces-
On next WS row, removing markers as you go, p2, k1, p to first marker, place sary), then working to end of side, hiding wrapped st as above.
all sts between first and second markers on a string to be knit later, p to third On next row, pick up all remaining wrapped sts.
marker, place all sts between third and fourth markers on a string to be knit
later, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Join fronts to back, work body, border, and buttons & buttonloops as for
cap sleeve version.
Sleeves
Place all sleeve sts on needles, using your favorite method for working in the round over small circumferences (double pointed needles,
2 circular needles, or Magic Loop are all possibilities). Attach new yarn where back sleeve sts join body sts, pm to designate beginning
of rnd, and pick up and knit 4 sts across armhole opening (pm for underarm after first 2 picked-up stitches). K around to first marker. If
additional width is desired, increase at sleeve seam by knitting to st before underarm marker, m1, k1, sm, k1, m1.
K 8 rnds even. Try on to determine if decreasing should begin yet. If more room is needed in upper arm, k 4 more rnds, then begin de-
creases. To decrease, k to 2 sts before underarm marker, k2tog, sm, skp, k to end of rnd; 2 sts dec’d. Work 6 rnds even, check fit again
to see if more decreases are needed; continue to work decrease rnds as neces-
sary, ending 2”/5cm before desired final sleeve length (suggested final length: Une Petite Note: Sleeve Shaping
11-13”/28-33cm from underarm). K 3 rnds, then finish with 3 rnds of k1, p1 To calculate exact number of decreases needed for sleeve,
ribbing, decreasing 1 st at underarm if necessary to achieve an even number of first decide on length desired: Placing garment sleeves on
stitches. Bind off loosely in rib. Weave in ends. strings and trying on, take measure from sleeve edge to
desired arm length with arm bent; then using gauge, calculate
Scoop neck, cap sleeves number of rounds needed to reach that length. For example,
CO 41 (41, 41, 47, 47, 47, 47) sts using the cable cast on method. if length desired is 10 more inches, then based on gauge, 28
Yoke more rows will be worked. To calculate number of decreases
Row 1 (RS): (LCS, p1) 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) times, pm in last purl st made (center needed, start with stitch count(st ct) for upper sleeve circum-
back marker), (RCS, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, RCS. ference, subtract st ct for lower sleeve width (compute this
Row 2 (WS): (P2, k1) to last 2 sts, p2. from measuring the end circumference of arm where sleeve
Row 3: As row 1. will finish; then use gauge to find st ct). For example if begin-
Row 4: Working in established p2, k1 rib pattern, work 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9) sts, ning st ct is 30 and final arm measure is 12”(24sts) you will
pm, work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work 15 (15, 15, 17, 17, 17, 17) sts, pm, need to decrease 6 sts at the sleeve seamline over 28 rows or
work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work to end. 2 sts every 8 rows or so. This is just a general rule of thumb,
Row 5: LCS, p1, LCS, (k to 1 st before marker, kinc, sm, kinc) 4 times, k to last but is a great jumping off place for better fit in your garments.
5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS; 8 sts inc’d.

**Please visit our website (www.frenchgirlknits.com) or e-mail us (frenchgirlknits@yahoo.com) for information.

©French Girl 2006 Please do not reproduce without permission. All rights reserved. non commercial use only. images ©rain Grimes 2006
 -4-
FG024
FANTINE
Kristeen Griffin-Grimes

SCOOP NECK, CAP SLEEVE VERSION:

CO 41 (41, 41, 47, 47, 47, 47) sts using the cable cast on method.
Yoke
Row 1 (RS): (LCS, p1) 7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 8, 8) times, pm in last purl st made (center back marker), (RCS, p1) 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 7) times, RCS.
PM at end of row to mark location of first button loop.
Row 2 (WS): (P2, k1) to last 2 sts, p2.
Row 3: As row 1.
Row 4: Working in established p2, k1 rib pattern, work 8 (8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9) sts, pm, work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work 15 (15, 15, 17,
17, 17, 17) sts, pm, work 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) sts, pm, work to end.
Row 5: LCS, p1, LCS, (k to 1 st before marker, kinc, sm, kinc) 4 times, k to last 5 sts, RCS, p1, RCS; 8 sts inc’d.
Row 6 and all WS rows: P2, k1, p to last 3 sts, k1, p2.
Repeat rows 5 & 6: 5 (6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10) times more, then repeat row 5 only once more--97 (105, 113, 119, 127, 135, 143) sts.
Try on and adjust fit, if necessary, as for Mandarin collar cap sleeve version.
Bind off sleeves, join fronts and back, complete body, border, and buttons & buttonloops as for Mandarin collar cap sleeve
version.

SCOOP NECK, 3/4 SLEEVE VERSION:

Cast on and work Yoke as for Scoop neck cap sleeve version.
Try on and adjust fit, if necessary, as for Mandarin collar cap sleeve version.
Separate sleeves from body, join fronts and back, complete body, border, sleeves, and buttons & buttonloops as for Mandarin
collar 3/4 sleeve
FANTINE version.
is about fun…and a fast finish! Knit in Rowan Big
Wool, the design uses only 2-4 balls (depending on version
chosen), some great vintage buttons, and you are out the door
feeling quite proud of yourself…and well you should be!
Available in 3/4 and cap sleeve variations with 2 collar
options as well.

**Please visit our website (www.frenchgirlknits.com) or e-mail us (frenchgirlknits@yahoo.com) for information.

©French Girl 2006 Please do not reproduce without permission. All rights reserved. non commercial use only. images ©rain Grimes 2006