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Introduction
This troubleshooting guide is intented to help identify and repair engine starting and
running problems and engine lubrication system problems. The following is a list of
problem symptoms discussed in this guide:
Engine Will Not Rotate Engine Will Rotate But Will Not Start (Fire) Engine Is
Difficult To Start When Cold Engine Is Difficult To Start When Hot Engine Idles
Rough When Cold Engine Idle Surges Engine Shudders At Idle Engine Hesitates
or Stumbles During Acceleration Engine Misses Engine Backfires
Engine Oil Pressure Low Engine Oil Pressure High
Engine Will Not Rotate.
This situation is by far the easiest to troubleshoot as there are fewer possible causes than
for an engine that will not fire.
Engine Will Not Turn Over
Possible Causes Refer To:
Discharged or Faulty Battery ELECT-15
Battery Terminals Loose or Corroded ELECT-15
Bad Starter Motor or Starter Solenoid ELECT-16
Bad Ignition Switch ELECT-17
Broken or Loose Wiring In Starter Circuit ELECT-17
Broken Teeth on Starter Pinion or Flywheel 1
1Remove starter and inspect starter pinion teeth. Roll engine using a 24 mm (or 15/16")
socket and ratchet and inspect flywheel for broken teeth.
Engine Will Rotate But Not Will Not Start (Fire).
When the engine will rotate but, will not start, it can typically be attributed to one of two
causes:
Lack of fuel
Lack of spark
This is where a fuel pressure gauge, a spark tester, and a digital multimeter are essential.
For the most part, these two problems can be diagnosed independently of each other.
However, there are several failures which will prevent the fuel pump from running and
cause a no spark condition.
Testing for Lack of Fuel
As I mentioned before when testing for lack of fuel is is almost essential to have a fuel
pressure gauge. You may test for fuel supply by removing the end cap from the fuel rail,
installing a hose, and direct the open end of the hose to a catch pan. However, even if you
get fuel from the rail during testing there is no guarantee that the fuel pressure is adequate
to start the car. In lieu of a pressure test, fuel pump delivery rate test will at least give you
an idea of the condition of the fuel pump.
Procedure
Connect a fuel pressure gauge to the end of the fuel rail.
Attempt to start the vehicle while checking the fuel pressure gauge.
If the fuel pressure rises on the gauge indicating the fuel pump has started, compare
the maximum fuel pressure reading to the specifications in FUEL-01.
If there is no increase in fuel pressure, and you suspect that that the fuel pump is not
starting, refer to FUEL-16 for fuel pump troubleshooting.
If your fuel pressure is low, or increases very slowly during cranking, refer to FUEL-
16 for troubleshooting other fuel related problems.
Testing For Lack of Spark
The first step in testing for lack of spark is to verify that a no spark condition actually
exists. A simple spark tester available at most auto parts stores is very handy here. I
recommend removing the fuel pump fuse to keep the fuel pump from running during
spark testing.
Disconnect one of the plug wires and connect the spark tester in series with the spark
plug. Crank the engine and look for spark. You'll see the spark pulsing inside the tester as
the engine turns over.
If there is no spark at the spark plug, disconnect the main lead from the ignition coil to
the distributor cap and connect a spark tester in series with the coil wire. Crank the
vehicle and check the tester for spark to the distributor.
If you get good spark at the main lead to the distributor and no spark at the spark plug,
the distributor cap and/or rotor is bad and should be replaced. If there is no spark at the
distributor main lead, proceed with ignition troubleshooting using IGN-04, Ignition
System Troubleshooting.
Engine Is Difficult To Start When Cold.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
DME Temperature Sensor Check Sensor Resistance. ELECT-19
Fuel System Vapor Lock Fuel System vapor lock can be caused by FUEL-01
several things including a bad Fuel Pressure
Regulator (FPR), bad fuel pump check valve,
or leaking injectors. Any of these three will
cause the fuel rail pressure to drop rapidly after
shutdown. When this happens the heat from
the engine causes the fuel remaining in the fuel
rail to flash to vapor. This causes voiding in
the fuel rail. During subsequent startups, it
make take a long time cranking the engine or
may take several attempts to get the engine to
fire. This is due to the fact that the fuel pump
may take some time after starting to clear the
void and refill the fuel rail.
To determine if vapor lock is a potential cause,
perform a fuel pressure and leakdown test
(FUEL-01).
If the fuel system fails the leakdown test,
determine the cause of the leakdown using
FUEL-17.
Fuel Pressure Too High Disconnect one fuel injector connector and N/A
attempt to start car. If the car starts and runs,
where it would not before, then the Fuel
Pressure Regulator (FPR) is most likely bad
and should be replaced. Bascially when the
FPR fails causing the fuel rail pressure to go
high, the injectors have too high a differential
pressure across them, they draw too much
current, and the injector driver shuts down.
Disconnecting one injector wire reduces the
injector current enough to allow the engine to
start. Realize that the car will run very rough as
it's running on three cylinders
Speed / Reference Sensors Sometimes a failing or misadjusted Speed IGN-02
and/or Reference sensor will cause difficult
start. This is most common when the engine is
hot. However, they can cause hard cold
starting as well.
Sometimes this may be simply to the wires or
connectors. You may try wiggling the Speed
and Reference sensor wires and connectors to
see if the car will start.
You should also try removing the sensors and
cleaning the ends. Due to magnetic field
buildup in the sensors they will pick up metal
fines from the flywheel ring gear teeth and
other sources which can interfere with signal
development.
Also, check the Speed and Reference sensor
clearance.
DME Computer Sometimes the DME computer will develop DME-05
bad solder joints. Try tapping on the DME
computer while attempting to start the car. If
the car starts while tapping on the DME
computer, where it would not before, the DME
has some bad solder joints which should be
repaired.
Of course, if you tap on the DME computer
and the car still doesn't start, it doesn't
necessarily mean the DME is good or bad. If
you eliminate all other problems, then it may
be time to consider replacing the DME
computer. As a minimum, I'd open up the
DME computer and inspect it for bad solder
joints.
Engine Is Difficult To Start When Hot.
Possible Causes Checks Procedure
DME/Fuel Pump Relay One of the first signs of a failing DME/Fuel FUEL-05
Pump is difficult hot starting. Quite often when
the DME/Fuel Pump relay starts failing the car
will start without problems when it is cold.
However, when the car has been operated at
normal operating temperature for a while, it
will refuse to start when the car is shut down
and re-start is attempted while the car is still
warm. After the car is allowed to sit and cool
for some period of time (usually 30 minutes to
1 hour), the car will again start without
problem.
If you experience hot start problems, try
making up and installing a jumper for the
DME/Fuel Pump relay (FUEL-05 under
"Emergency Repairs") to see if it solves the hot
start problem. Realize that you must attempt
this while you are experiencing the hot start
problem for the test to be valid.
Fuel System Vapor Lock Fuel System vapor lock can be caused by FUEL-01
several things including a bad Fuel Pressure
Regulator (FPR), bad fuel pump check valve,
or leaking injectors. Any of these three will
cause the fuel rail pressure to drop rapidly after
shutdown. When this happens the heat from
the engine causes the fuel remaining in the fuel
rail to flash to vapor. This causes voiding in
the fuel rail. During subsequent startups, it
make take a long time cranking the engine or
may take several attempts to get the engine to
fire. This is due to the fact that the fuel pump
may take some time after starting to clear the
void and refill the fuel rail.
To determine if vapor lock is a potential cause,
perform a fuel pressure and leakdown test
(FUEL-01).
If the fuel system fails the leakdown test,
determine the cause of the leakdown using
FUEL-17.
Speed / Reference Sensors Sometimes a failing or misadjusted Speed IGN-02
and/or Reference sensor will cause difficult
start. This is most common when the engine is
hot.
Sometimes this may be simply to the wires or
connectors. You may try wiggling the Speed
and Reference sensor wires and connectors to
see if the car will start.
You should also try removing the sensors and
cleaning the ends. Due to magnetic field
buildup in the sensors they will pick up metal
fines from the flywheel ring gear teeth and
other sources which can interfere with signal
development.
Also, check the Speed and Reference sensor
clearance.
DME Computer Sometimes the DME computer will develop N/A
bad solder joints. Try tapping on the DME
computer while attempting to start the car. If
the car starts while tapping on the DME
computer, where it would not before, the DME
has some bad solder joints which should be
repaired.
Of course, if you tap on the DME computer
and the car still doesn't start, it doesn't
necessarily mean the DME is good or bad. If
you eliminate all other problems, then it may
be time to consider replacing the DME
computer. As a minimum, I'd open up the
DME computer and inspect it for bad solder
joints.
Engine Idles Rough When Cold.