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C O L U M B I A ɀ S O U T H C A R O L I N A

LIFE&STYLE
WEDNESDAY, MAY 19, 2010 ɀ WWW.THESTATE.COM ɀ SECTION D

SATURDAY NIGHT ONION


Vidalia: Flavorful and sweeter, and a
good balance of onion and the bullion.
Palmetto: A bit saltier, but still good
The winner? A slight edge toward the
Palmetto

Ain’t she sweet


We did a taste test to see which is the true
Southern onion: Vidalia or Palmetto Sweet
the layers to find out in a sweet onion
By BETSEY GUZIOR
bguzior@thestate.com throwdown.
We pitted the two sweet onions in a taste

I
t’s David vs. Goliath. test, using both varieties in three recipes,
Or, more specifically, Vidalia vs. judged by a selected, but hungry, group of
Palmetto. onion lovers from the newsroom last week.
The Vidalia onion is a giant force in the We got help from Branson Stafford, the
PHOTOGRAPHS BY KIM KIM FOSTER-TOBIN/KKFOSTER@THESTATE.COM
PALMETTO foodie world. About this time every year, chef at Davis’, a new bar/restaurant opening
SWEET these Georgia-bred onions show this week in Rosewood.
up on grocery shelves, a long- Stafford made two onion
Average size: 2-3 awaited treat for onion lovers. INSIDE: Sweet loaves, one using the Vidalia and
inches in diameter Unlike the tear-inducing yellow onion recipes, the other using the Palmetto
onion or the pungent red onion, Page D3 Sweet. Stafford hopes the onion
Color: White these onions are so mild and fla- loaf — a pile of battered onion
Texture: Thin, vorful they can be eaten whole. rings shaped into a loaf pan and
papery skin But now comes the Palmetto Sweet On- baked — becomes a signature dish at the
ion and the Edisto River Sweet Onion. Rela- restaurant.
Spokesman: None tively petite in size, much whiter in color It was a bit harder to work with the Pal-
yet, but might we and with more delicate skin, these home- metto Sweet, Stafford reports, just because
recommend Lizard grown onions were introduced a few weeks the onion skin was so delicate and the Pal-
Man? ago by South Carolina agriculture officials. metto took a bit longer to cook.
They want to make you forget everything We also made two versions of an onion
you loved about Vidalias. dip and Paula Deen’s Saturday Night On-
How does the fair Palmetto Sweet fare ions (see recipes inside).
against the mighty Vidalia? We peeled back The verdicts of our judging panel:

VIDALIA ONIONS
ABOUT DAVIS’
Average size: 3-4
Davis’ is expected to open
inches in diameter
this week. It is located at 2910
Color: Light yellow Rosewood Drive.
Texture: Thick yellow Brent Davis owns the restau-
skin rant along with his brother
Stephen. Brent Davis helped
Spokesman: Shrek, run Cock N Bull, which closed
who is the face of at this location earlier this
this year’s spring and expects to open
marketing campaign soon at a new location on
ONION LOAF Rosewood Drive.
ONION DIP The dinner menu is mostly
Vidalia: There was lots of batter, and it standard comfort and bar food,
Vidalia: There was more seemed this version was cooked longer. but with a heavy dose of vegan
flavor and a sweeter taste with The mild taste of the onions was relatively and vegetarian dishes, includ-
this version. The cheese held disappointing. ing a cactus quesadilla and
the dip together well, and it Palmetto: The panel could taste the crispy nopales (fried cactus
was a good balance of flavors. onions better in this version; the batter was leaves). The onion loaf recipe,
Palmetto: Compared to the crunchier and it retained its shape well. says chef Branson Stafford, is
other version, this dip was The winner? Palmetto inspired by onion rings.
runny and watery.
The winner? Vidalia

COOK’S CALENDAR Bakery. Tickets: $25 for Friends


members, $35 for nonmembers.
cheese salad; June 30, open-faced
western chicken sandwich. The
lets-cook@earthlink.net. Let’s Cook is
at 1305 Assembly St., (803)
Palmetto Palate, an event
sponsored by the S.C. Farm
Available online at Botanical Garden entrance is at 250-2569 Bureau pairing South Carolina’s
Fruit from the Vine myRCPL.com/friends. Limited 1200 Botanical Way, off U.S. 378 best chefs with the best locally
special reserve tasting tickets in West Columbia. The second annual Ribs & grown ingredients, returns to 701
Enjoy an evening of food and wine available for additional $15: call Renaissance festival will be 11 a.m. Whaley July 22. Last year’s event
as the Friends of the [ EVENTS ] to 10 p.m. June 5 at Eau Claire
(803) 9293475 or featured creations such as
Richland County Public (803) 988-0885. Town Square at North Main and Carolina mission figs with goat
Library host The Literary Test your sleuthing abilities at the Monticello Road. Enjoy live music,
The farmers market at cheese, roasted pecans, seared
Vine 7 p.m. June 12 at the Dinner with the Family murder mystery arts and crafts and finger-licking
Riverbanks Botanical pork belly and a beet reduction,
Main Library, 1431 dinner Saturday at Let’s Cook Culinary good ribs. Details at
Garden has reopened glazed pouisson legs with sweet
Assembly St. Taste more Studio. Hosted by members of the eauclairecommunity.org
2-7 p.m. Wednesdays corn relish and a homemade
than 30 wines and learn Alpha Iota Kappa student chapter of
through October. blackberry cobbler. In addition to
about each selection from the American Criminal Justice The 13th Annual Wine Tasting
EarthFare Market will the food, a silent auction of items
wine experts while enjoying Association at ITT Technical Institute of and Silent Auction hosted by the
be holding cooking unique to South Carolina and
food from local Columbia, participants will act as Rotary Club of the Vista Night is
demonstrations agriculture will be held. Proceeds
restaurants. The Skipp detectives in solving the crime with scheduled for 7 p.m. June 8 at The
2:30-3:30 p.m. Cooking support Friends of Farm Bureau
Pearson Jazz Ensemble will prizes awarded to the first two guests Hall at Canal and Senate, 320
demonstration Political Action Committee fund.
be performing. Sponsors include to correctly identify the criminal. Chef Senate St. Tickets are $40 per
schedule: Today, strawberry fields Tickets $50, available from Kristin
Southern Wine & Spirits, John Militello will present Italian hors person, silent auction proceeds
salad; May 26, chicken stir fry with Lavender, (803) 936-4219.
BlueCross BlueShield of South d’oeuvres to dinner guests. Proceeds benefit Children’s Chance. Info:
herbed veggies; June 2, sweet
Carolina, Bonefish Grill, Carrabba’s go to fund community service projects (803) 413-0446 or
mint kaleidoscope medley; June 9,
Italian Grill, DiPrato’s, Dianne’s on and ITT Tech criminal justice student vistanightrotary.org
peachy keen crepes; June 16, INSIDE: More Cook’s Calendar,
Devine, Immaculate Consumption, activities. $30 per person, limited
grilled garden skewers; June 23, Page D3.
Gervais & Vine and Tiffany’s seating, reservations required at Start salivating now. The
ragin’ Cajun shrimp and bleu
WWW.THESTATE.COM ● THE STATE, COLUMBIA, SOUTH CAROLINA ● WEDNESDAY, MAY 19, 2010 D3

S.C.-made seasonings, sauces spice up flavors


S
pring is finally here ... The incorporated the mix were warm, it’s a perfect fell through, McElveen products (such as sauces,
in a big way. offered at the show. All accompaniment to fish and started making and mixes, beverages and
The garden has Carolina were delicious. I have since seafood. marketing a sauce on his baked goods), along with
been planted for more than Kitchen used Hog Dust when Mother Shucker’s is own. contact information and
a month now, and so far, I grilling pork chops and available online at Online recipes suggest description of available
haven’t killed anything —
Susan Ardis have sprinkled it over oysterbarcolumbia.com and using the sauce not only for items.
although the lettuce had me sardis popcorn and green salads. at various local farmers dipping but as an This is not to be confused
worried for a week or so in @thestate.com The website, markets (I found it the first ingredient in pimento with the Certified Roadside
the beginning. recent williesrubbins.com, offers week at the Forest Acres cheese or as a substitute for Markets online guide,
The cucumber plants weeks and, in the process, quite a few recipes and market on the roof at mayonnaise. Japanese Pink follow the link at
have started to put out perform a virtual spring ordering information. Richland Mall). Sauce is available locally at agriculture.sc.gov, that lists
feelers for vining, the cleaning of my mind and According to the site, I have not yet tried this Simply Savory on Devine roadside market hours and
tomatillos and peppers are my work desk. Willie’s Hog Dust is one, but I found the Street, Mary & Martha’s on seasonal availability of
flowering. There’s even a While my sister and I available at Ole Timey Meat marketing information Forest Drive, various Piggly products. Both guides are
small Roma forming on one were at the flower show at Market locations, Four intriguing: Japanese Pink Wiggly stores and online at great starting points for
of the four varieties of the State Farmers Market Oaks Farms, Columbia Sauce from Native Tongue nativetonguesauces.com. discovering a new food
tomato plants that I have in in April, we ran across a Regional Visitors Center Gourmet Sauces of Perhaps the most helpful source or, as with the
the garden. couple of new local and the State Museum. Spartanburg. The idea for item to recently cross my roadside market guide,
So now I turn to that products. One of my new Another versatile product the company sprang from desk is a copy of the South planning a day trip.
other seasonal ritual: spring favorites is Willie’s Hog is Mother Shucker’s the mind of Jason Carolina Specialty Food Speaking of which, it’s
cleaning. Dust, a dry-seasoning mix Original Cocktail Sauce McElveen when he was a Association Membership time for me to clean out the
Allow me to share with made in Sumter that tastes from The Oyster Bar in student at Wofford College. Guide, published by the collapsible cooler that I
you some of the bits and good on just about Columbia. Patrons of the His class project involved a state Department of keep in the car and head
pieces of food-related everything. Samples of Vista restaurant at 1123 business/marketing plan for Agriculture. The guide lists out in this sunny weather.
information that I have pulled pork, beef tenderloin Park St. will recognize this a local hibachi restaurant. farmers, producers and Who knows what I’ll find
accumulated over the and a dipping sauce that sauce immediately. Served After a collaborative project retailers of local specialty next?

TASTINGS COOK’S CALENDAR Old Chapin Road. Market hours


are 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. every first
and third Thursday through
A weekly review of wine, like red velvet, lush and Samuel Adams summer Join the fourth annual healthy cooking classes October. Details: Heidi Black,
beer and spirits soft. brew is a different recipe Upstate Farm Tour June 5 through the Cancer (803) 957-3602
every year, but it always and 6. Tour 20 sustainable Prevention and Control
2008 Big House Red, Cali- The Macallan Fine Oak maintains a light and easy farms over two days Program at USC. May 28, Main Street Marketplace,
fornia, four-bottle box (3 li- Highland Single Malt drinking character. I noticed throughout South Carolina’s Girls’ Night: Cooking with at Boyd Plaza in front of the
ters), $24 Scotch Whisky (15 year a little more spice this year Upstate and learn where Chocolate, $20, (877)
It is time to think of box old), Scotland, $70 and lots more flavor. It has Columbia Museum of Art, is
your fresh food comes from. 256-5381. Register now for open 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
wine in a new light; it is no This classic single malt big notes of lemon and or-
longer just cheap and bland starts with rich aromas of ange zest and a slight sweet Highlights this year include Culinary Camp for Kids, Fridays through June 25.
stuff. This wine is packaged dried vanilla beans and white pepper flavor that the Bowie Old Farm Show ages 8 and up. Classes in
in an Octavin, an eight- raisins, which lead into a comes from Grains of Para- where visitors can basic and advanced The Sandhills Farmers
sided box that holds four medium-bodied Scotch with dise, which is grown on the experience traditional techniques, 30-minute Market is open 2:30 to 7
bottles. The wine is just as layers of delicate flavors. west coast of Africa. Subtle farming methods of meals and a three-day p.m. Tuesdays through Nov.
good, if not better, than the Toasted coconut and dried notes of clove and anise generations past and meal camp. Register by Friday.. 2 at the entrance to the
glass bottle sample. But citrus zest were framed with with layers of hops and a stops at Sharon Rose Farm Information: Clemson Sandhill Research
while four bottles would a slight honey sweetness medium bitterness bring the in Woodruff and Split Creek cpcp.sph.sc.edu/cooking/ and Education Center, 900
cost $40 or so, the box wine and a cinnamon-raisin fin- flavors into perfect balance. Farm in Anderson that will classes.htm. Columbia’s Clemson Road, Northeast
is about half price because ish. The overall taste was This is a terrific beer for offer farm fresh food cooked Cooking Kitchen is at 915 Richland. In addition to local
of the savings on packaging. smooth and creamy, perfect almost any chicken or fish on-site. Tickets: $25 per Greene St. products, master gardeners
The flavors — a blend of for any single-malt lover. meal cooked on the grill. vehicle in advance, $30 day
syrah, grenache, tannat, The casks used to age this NOTE: For a list of upcoming wines to be will be on hand. Details:
reviewed, e-mail advance@winetalk.org. of tour. Individual farms may Chef Francois Fisera clemson.edu/sandhill
mourvedre, sangiovesse and Scotch are a combination of
barbera grapes — are big American sherry and bour- Check out reviewer Lain be toured for $10. Tickets hosts cooking classes at
and powerful but also har- bon in addition to European Bradford’s Web site, available at Whole Foods Fleur de Lys Home Culinary The All-Local Farmers
monious and well struc- sherry casks, which impart winetalk.org. Or follow him Market in Greenville or at Institute. Upcoming classes Market offers produce and
tured. A nose of dark ripe the complex flavors found on Twitter (username: carolinafarmstewards.org. include: Thursday and such from 8 a.m. to noon
berries with a hint of spice in each sip. winereview). If you have Friday, soft shell crab; every Saturday at 701
leads into a full body that trouble finding a reviewed Like to plan ahead? Tickets Tuesday, international Whaley St. Details:
emphasizes dark fruit with Samuel Adams Summer item, e-mail are now on sale for the Taste of etiquette; May 28, salmon. stateplate.org.
hints of oak. The finish is Ale, Boston, $8, six pack lain@winetalk.org Charleston food festival Oct. Fleur de Lys is at 3001
8-10. The weekend celebration Millwood Ave; (803) [ EVENTS ]
of Lowcountry cuisine will 765-9999, or fleur-de-lys.us.
feature an Iron Chef The Biscuit House on
Bluff Road is asking for help
WINE EVENTS 787-3949, rossocolumbia.com
Every Wednesday: 5 p.m. Sample
four Italian wines during the weekly
competition at the Culinary
Institute of Charleston, an art
Upcoming classes at Let’s
Cook Culinary Studio: in compiling customer
gallery walk and the main Thursday, Italian dinner; stories and anecdotes for a
CONNOISSEURS CORNER, Town drop-in. $5
June 7: Dogs for Dogs Grilling event at Boone Hall Plantation Friday: couples cooking on book on the restaurant’s
Center of Lake Carolina, 320 Long history. Recipes for biscuits,
Pointe Lane, (803) 708-6316 Event to benefit The Animal in Mount Pleasant that will the grill; Monday: regional
Every Thursday: 5:30-7 p.m. Mission
showcase more than 50 of French cooking. Let’s Cook cinnamon rolls and lunch
Beer tasting SHAG BISTRO , 566 Spears Creek Charleston’s finest restaurants. is at 1305 Assembly St. items will be included in the
Every Friday: 5:30-7 p.m. Wine Church Rd., Suite 104, (803)
Tickets to all events can be (803) 250-2569; publication. Submit written
tasting 419-3443, shagbistro.com entries during business
Tonight: 6 p.m. California wine purchased at letscookculinary.com
CORKED, Village at Sandhill, 661-3
dinner. Reception and five-course charlestonrestaurant hours, 6-11 a.m. Monday
Promenade Place, (803) through Friday, or e-mail
708-4755, corkedwineshop.com meal paired with wine, $75 association.com Young Chef’s Academy
Thursday: 5-8 p.m. Beer and SIMPLY SAVORY, 2901 C Devine St., upcoming classes: biscuithouse1@aol.com.
wine flight. $5 Vineyards tasting with Goodman (803) 256-1141, savorysc.com [ CLASSES ] Monday,traditional Mexican
Sage [ CONTESTS ]
Friday: 6-8 p.m. Three to five Every Friday: 4:30-6:30 p.m., cookies, spice cake. $20
wines, light snacks. $5 GOURMET SHOP, 724 Saluda Ave., free wine tasting The Farm Store, near per child, reservations
Saturday: 4-6 p.m. Same as Sutter Home’s Build a
(803) 799-9463, TERRA, 100 State St., West Shaw Air Force Base, offers required. 7320 Broad River
Friday. $5 thegourmetshop.net Better Burger Recipe Contest
Tuesday: 5-8 p.m. Weeknight
Columbia, (803) 791-3443, homemaking classes Road. (803) 749-0670
Tuesday: 6 p.m. Icons of the terrasc.com and Cook-Off is seeking
flight; try the featured wines in a Andes Tour 2010. Wineries from
throughout the year. June youngchefsacademy.com
Every Wednesday: Pizza and creative recipes from
flight of four. $5 Chile and Argentina will present 30 pinot, $12. 12 and 19, cheese making
[ MARKET NEWS ] backyard chefs. Ten finalists
ENOREE RIVER VINEYARDS AND wines, $12.50 in advance, $15 at for the fun of it. All classes
door. TOTAL WINE & MORE, 275-D will be selected to compete
WINES, 1650 Dusty Road,
Harbison Blvd., (803) 407-3722 are at 4 p.m., preregistration
Newberry, (803) 276-2855, Farmers in the Forest, in a grilling cook-off on Sept.
INDIGO JONES RESTAURANT OF Every Saturday: Free wine required. Ask about special
enoreeriverwinery.com CAMDEN, 511 Rutledge St., (803) Forest Acres’ farmers 10. The grand prize winner
Every Tuesday through Saturday:
tastings, noon-6 p.m. classes for small groups and
432-1616 market on the rooftop at will receive $100,000 in
10 a.m.-6 p.m. Taste a variety of WINESTYLES WINES & GIFTS, home schools. 1191 Peach
Every Wednesday: 6 p.m. wine Richland Mall, is open 3-7 cash. Entries will be
wines. $3.50 tasting Shoppes at Woodhill, Garners Orchard Road (S.C. 441),
Ferry Road, (803) 695-1120 p.m. today. Information: accepted through July 31.
GERVAIS & VINE, 620-A Gervais St., Sumter. Open 11 a.m. to 6
MO MO’S BISTRO, 2930 Devine St., Every Thursday: 5-8 p.m. Wine farmersintheforest.org Rules and information:
(803) 799-8463, gervine.com (803) 252-2700; p.m. Tuesday to Saturday. To
Tonight: 6:30 p.m. Cline Cellars
tasting. $5 (refunded with sutterhome.com
momosondevine.com purchase from sampled wines) sign up/more info: (803)
tasting with Roger Gobler, six wines Every Wednesday: 6 p.m. wine 494-3276 The Lexington Farmers Have an upcoming food
with two courses, $28 ($23 wine tasting Market has reopened in the
Get your wine event listed. event? E-mail details to
club members)
June 2: 6:30 p.m. Rodney Strong ROSSO TRATTORIA ITALIA, Trenholm E-mail food@thestate.com. Columbia’s Cooking, back parking lot of The food@thestate.com.
Plaza, 4840 Forest Drive, (803) Deadline is 5 p.m. Friday. Shoppes at Flight Deck, 109 Deadline is 5 p.m. Friday.

SHOULD BEANS BE pan. It catches any drips but


GONE? Hints from allows the heat to circulate SWEET ONION RECIPES
for proper baking results.
I’ve had in my pantry for Heloise —
at least 10 years several www.heloise.com
— Baked sweet onion dip
varieties of dried beans in Heloise, P.O. Box Jane, via e-mail
glass and plastic jars, such 795000, San — 2 cups sweet onion, chopped 1
⁄4 teaspoon black pepper
as lima beans, black-eyed Antonio, TX 2 cups shredded Swiss cheese 1
⁄2 teaspoon seasoning salt
peas, black beans, etc. They 78279-5000 or fax EASY FREEZER ID 13⁄4 cup mayonnaise (reduced fat OK) 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
are very hard. Are those it to 210-Heloise I enjoy freezing leftovers 1-2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon hot sauce
different kinds of beans still and smaller portions of
good to cook and eat? HANDY CLOTHESPIN meats bought in bulk, but
— Clarita Q., Houston oftentimes these smaller ■ Lightly grease a 11⁄2 quart oval casserole dish or 8- by 8-inch baking dish.
Wooden spring clothes- packages get lost in my ■ Combine all ingredients; transfer to casserole dish. Bake 30 minutes in a
The United States Dry pins work well as identifiers freezer, and I can’t find what 375-degree oven until top begins to brown.
Bean Council advises you to for potted plants. Use a I want when I need it, or I’ve ■ Serve hot or warm with crackers or tortilla chips.
toss your beans. Dry beans marker to write on the forgotten what I have.
can be held in an airtight jar clothespin, and clip it to the I use the clear-plastic bins
out of the sunlight and in a edge of the pot. that variety salad greens
cool, arid pantry, for ex- — Doris, via e-mail come in by labeling them on
ample, for about 12 months. the front end and stacking Paula Deen’s Saturday Night Onions
When loading beans into a VINEGARY them on the shelves in the
canister, mark the date on CUCUMBERS freezer. I’ve got one for 1 serving 1 beef bouillon cube
the bottom so you can track For delicious cucumbers, chops, one for steaks, one 1 large Vidalia Onion or sweet onion Pepper to taste
your beans and their age. soak them in cider vinegar for seafood, etc. 1 tablespoon butter
and water for 10 to 15 min- .
LUNCH TIP utes for a tangy treat. I like — Susan, via e-mail
My hint is using a travel full strength, but others ■ Prepare a fire in a charcoal grill. Trim a slice from the top of each onion, and peel
toothbrush holder to hold a prefer a lighter version. CRYING OVER ONIONS the onion without cutting off the root end. With a potato peeler, cut a small
paring knife in my lunch — Heloise When cutting or peeling cone-shaped section from the center of the onion. Cut the onion into quarters from
bag. I use a knife to cut onions, to avoid tears, put the top down, stopping within a half inch of the root end. Place a bouillon cube in
apples, and found this to be HANDY PIZZA PAN the onions on a plate, put the center, slip slivers of butter in between the sections, and sprinkle with pepper.
the safest way to carry a In regard to the reader the plate on top of the stove ■ Wrap each onion in a double thickness of heavy-duty foil. Place the onions directly
paring knife. who had foil adhere to the and turn the exhaust fan on. onto the hot coals and cook for 45 minutes, turning every so often. Or bake the
— Lynn Duncan, Brockville, bottom of her oven: I put my No more tears. foil-wrapped Vidalia onions in a 350-degree F oven for about 45 minutes.
Ontario, Canada pie plate on a 12-inch pizza — A Reader, via e-mail

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