Openskies - June 2011

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.
indd
004_OSJUNE_COVER.indd 1 1 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:01:54
6:07:39 PM
the leader’s watch
No other watch is engineered quite like a Rolex. The Day-Date, introduced in 1956,
was the first watch to display the date, as well as the day in its entirety. A powerful
expression of elegance and style, its classic design quickly became a favourite
among world leaders. The 36 mm Day-Date can display the day in a wide choice
of languages and is presented here in 18 ct yellow gold.
t he day- date
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 2 5/30/11 3:01:54 PM

The new Audi A6. Calculated Perfection.
It is the perfect combination of innovation and design that raises your heart rate and excites you when one notices the
new Audi A6. With optional full LED headlights, the intuitive MMI touch, infotainment system, as well as the Aluminium
hybrid body which contributes to unparalleled handling, and the powerful 3.0 TFSI quattro (300hp) and 2.8 FSI quattro
(204hp) engines operating from below, the Audi A6 makes for a compelling testament to the reward of perfectionism.
quattro | 7 speed S tronic | Aluminium hybrid body | optional full LED headlights | MMI touch
For more information visit www.audi-me.com/A6 or your local dealer.

Audi
Vorsprung durch Technik

al mothajiba.pdf 4/26/11 9:37:37 AM
CM
MY
CY
CMY

emirates palace.pdf 4/18/11 11:11:57 AM
17613 Emir
CM
MY
CY
CMY
Aust
Fiji .
Gua
India
Jord
Kuw
©2011

17613 Emirates Inflight copy 3/9/11 8:46 AM Page 1
Thrifty Locations:
Australia. . . . . . . . . +61 2 8337 2791 Lebanon. . . . . . . . . . . +961 1510 100 Papua New Guinea +1675 32 32333
Fiji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . +679 672 2755 Libya. . . . . . . . . . . +218 21 3332 230 Qatar. . . . . . . . . . . . . +974 4666 655
Guam. . . . . . . . . . . . +1671 646 6555 Morocco. . . . . . . . +212 522 540 022 Seychelles. . . . . . . . . . +248 225 862
India . . . . . . . . . . . +91 11 2506 1567 New Caledonia . . . . . +687 27 27 30 Turkey. . . . . . . . . . +90 212 465 3156
Jordan . . . . . . . . . . +962 6 5684 771 New Zealand . . . . . . +643 359 2721 UAE Dubai . . . . . . . +971 4 224 5404
Kuwait . . . . . . . . . . . +965 2473 5419 Oman . . . . . . +968 2448 9248/9648 UAE Abu Dhabi . . . +971 2 599 8989
©2011 A licensee of Thrifty Rent-A-Car System, Inc.. All rights reserved. Earn 500 Skywards Miles per rental at all Thrifty locations
For a complete list of worldwide destinations,

please visit thrifty.com

alviarmani - fp.pdf 3/15/11 2:15:08 PM
CM
MY
CY
CMY
;aZm
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 20 5/30/11 3:04:02 PM (K) J00407 em

Photography 6jY^d$K^YZd Computers
Mobiles & Telecom :"6XXZhhdg^Zh 6eea^VcXZh
Gaming LZaacZhh$;îcZhh and more...
Emax. The power of choice.

With over 100,000 products and 300 brands at 26 regional stores, Emax can give you
the choice you want, the helpful service you need and the great value you deserve.
Switch on to Emax, the fastest-growing electronics store in the Middle East.
0% Interest 0% Interest 0% Interest 0% Interest :Vgc6^gBâZh Earn Skywards Miles Shop at Emax and Professional services
6 Months 6 Months 3 Months 6 Months on Everything You Buy ;an=^\] earn Shukran points to meet all your
;aZm^>chiVabZciEaVc Easy Instalment Plan Easy Instalment Plan Easy Instalment Plan When You Buy IT requirements
Dubai: Oasis Centre 04-5154444, Mirdif City Centre 04-2843989,

Mall of the Emirates 04-3996562, Reef Mall 04-2241181, Bur Dubai - Centrepoint 04-3587002
6Wj9]VW^/=VbYVcHigZZi%'"+,)).(,H]Vg_V]/@^c\;V^hVaHigZZi%+"***&&&'
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd
(K) J00407 emax generic 26x19.521open skies sm 12.05.indd 1 5/30/11
5/12/113:04:03
12:36 PM
PM
T
show
surp
me
has
des
tak
Pica
scru
intri
Gard
pull
New
Em
th
is
fac
fin
ad
Pri
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 22 5/30/11 3:04:06 PM OS04_029-029

EDITOR’S LETTER
T
he best things in life always take that extra
bit of effort – and such it is with Al Quoz; a
dusty, rundown district that lies parallel to
Dubai’s main thoroughfare, Sheikh Zayed
Road. This warren of factories and car
showrooms is home to one of the most interesting — and
surprising — art scenes in the Middle East. This brings
me neatly to this month’s cover. Noma Bar
has the most recognisable style of any graphic
designer working today, and his cover – his
take on Picasso – is striking and original.
Picasso is the subject of this month’s cover story, and his
scruples, or lack of them, make for a fascinating read. Equally
intriguing is the story of the largest art theft in the world, the
Gardner Heist, which remains the biggest unsolved art crime ever
pulled off. For another, different type of mystery, turn to page 112, where
New Jersey resident, Matthew Albanese makes incredibly lifelike scenes out
of everyday (and not so everyday) objects. Sunsets and
volcanoes made from moss, sugar and ostrich feathers? Oh
yes. Of course, all art is subjective, and in some cases, one man’s artist is
another man’s vandal. Nowhere is this dichotomy more in evidence than
in New York in the 1980s, when graffiti artists began spraying their names
all over the city’s trains. These days, of course, graffiti is considered an art
form. We trace its journey from the street to the gallery. There is always a
danger of sounding pretentious when talking about art, which is why I will
stop now. Enjoy the issue.
CONOR@OPENSKIESMAGAZINE.COM
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer GROUP EDITOR & MANAGING PARTNER Ian Fairservice GROUP SENIOR EDITOR
(JOB+PIOTPOşHJOB!NPUJWBUFBF SENIOR EDITOR .BSL&WBOTşNBSLF!NPUJWBUFBF EDITOR$POPS1VSDFMMşDPOPS!
NPUJWBUFBF ART DIRECTOR5JB4FJGFSUşUJB!NPUJWBUFBF CHIEF SUB EDITOR *BJO4NJUIşJBJOT!NPUJWBUFBF GENERAL
MANAGER PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION S Sasidharan PRODUCTION MANAGER C Sudhakar GENERAL MANAGER, GROUP
SALES"OUIPOZ.JMOFşBOUIPOZ!NPUJWBUFBF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER/JDPMB)VETPOşOJDPMB!NPUJWBUF
ae SENIOR ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER +BZB #BMBLSJTIOBO KBZB!NPUJWBUF BF DEPUTY ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER
Murali Narayanan ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER 4ISVUJ 4SJWBTUBWB EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES: &EJUPS
4JPCIBO#BSEFU "SBCJD&EJUPS)BUFN0NBS %FQVUZ&EJUPS4UFQIBOJF#ZSOF 8FCTJUFşFNJSBUFTDPN CONTRIBUTORS:
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In
the event of any inaccuracy please contact The Editor. Any opinion expressed
Noma Bar, &SJD+-ZNBO (BSFUI3FFT 3JDIBSE-VDL (PMEJF $IFSJUI(SBDF/JDIPMM ,FSSZ$ISJTUJBOJ 8BFM"M4BZFHI
is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and (FNNB $PSSFMM 1IJM 0I "MFY %BODIFW 4DPUU (ZCTPO 6MSJDI #PTFS %BOJFM (SBOU .BUUIFX "MCBOFTF Axis Maps,
facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal, COVER ILLUSTRATION by Noma Bar MASTHEAD DESIGNCZ2VJOUşXXXRVJOUEVCBJDPN
financial or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general and specialist
advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 282 4060

INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES
Fax:(+971 4) 282 4436 Email: emirates@motivate.ae
AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND Okeeffe Media; Tel + 61 89 447 2734, okeeffekev@bigpond.com.au BENELUX M.P.S. Benelux; Tel +322 720 9799, Fax +322 725 1522, francesco.
sutton@mps-adv.com CHINA Publicitas Advertising; Tel +86 10 5879 5885 FRANCE Intermedia Europe Ltd; Tel +33 15 534 9550, Fax +33 15 534 9549, administration@
intermedia.europe.com GERMANY IMV International Media Service GmbH; Tel +49 89 54 590 738, Fax +49 89 54 590 769, wolfgang.jager@iqm.de INDIA Media Star;
84,649 Tel +91 22 281 5538, Fax +91 22 283 9619, ravi@mediastar.co.in ITALY IMM Italia; Tel +39 023 653 4433, Fax +39 029 998 1376, lucia.colucci@fastwebnet.it JAPAN
COPIES Skynet Media, Inc.; Tel/Fax +81 43 278 6977 skynetmedia@y2.dion.ne.jp NETHERLANDS GIO Media; Tel +31 6223 8420, giovanni@gio-media.nl HONGKONG/MALAYSIA/
THAILAND Sonney Media Networks; Tel +852 27 230 373, Fax +852 27 391 815, hemant@sonneymedia.com SOUTH AFRICA International Media Representatives;
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE Tel +27 11 234 9875, gisela@imrsa.co.za SPAIN IMM International; Tel +331 40 1300 30, n.devos@imm-international.com UK Spafax Inflight Media; Tel +44 207 906
2001, Fax +44 207 906 2022, nhopkins@spafax.com USA Totem Brand Stories; Tel +212 896 3846, Fax +212 896 3848, brigitte.baron@totembrandstories.com
21
21
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 23 5/19/11 3:04:07
5/30/11 4:39:53 PM
RO
AR
PIT
DO
HO
HE
PR
AN
AL
TO
AG
LEG
RE
TR
BIG
CR
CO

CONTENTS
JUNE ��
ROME ’S CULTURAL HERITAGE IS HAMPERING A NEW GENERATION OF

ARTISTS (P29)… HONG KONG’S ART GALLERIES ARE GIVEN THE TWITTER
PITCH TREATMENT (P33)… CHARLES SAATCHI IS AN ‘ARTOHOLIC’, BUT
DOES HE MAKE ANY SENSE? (P35)… WE GIVE BEIRUT ’S MOST LUXURIOUS
HOTEL THE ONCE OVER (P35)… MELBOURNE IS ONE OF THE SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE’S COOLEST CITIES (P36)… WE LOOK AT ANDY WARHOL’S
PROLIFIC SPELL AS A FILM DIRECTOR (P40)… ARTIST, MUSICIAN, ACTOR
AND ALL ROUND LEGEND, GOLDIE GIVES US HIS SKYPOD (P42)… WE TAKE
A LOOK AT ONE OF SPAIN’S MOST INTRIGUING HOUSES (P52)… AND GO
TO ONE OF EUROPE’S OLDEST AUCTION HOUSES (P54)… AS WELL AS BEING
A GENIUS, PICASSO WAS ALSO A COMPLEX MAN. WE TAKE A LOOK AT HIS
LEGACY (P62)… DUBAI’S ORGANIC ART SCENE IS UNMASKED AS WE
REVEAL THE CITY’S HIDDEN GALLERIES (P72)… WHILE ULRICH BOSER
TRIES TO UNTANGLE THE MYSTERY SURROUNDING THE ART WORLD’S
BIGGEST ROBBERY (P82)… THE RISE OF A GLOBAL ART MARKET HAS
CREATED AS MANY PROBLEMS AS OPPORTUNITIES (P92)… GRAFFITI HAS
COME A LONG WAY FROM ITS ORIGINS. WE TRACE ITS JOURNEY (P102) …
23
OS04_023-023_Contents.indd 23
5/30/11 2:58:22 PM
WEATHER I T OUT
Downtown Dubai
FOR A SU M M ER TO RE ME MB E R
SOAK IN THE ATMOSPHERE AT DOWNTOWN DUBAI THIS SUMMER. STAY IN THE NEW HEART OF THE
CITY AND ENJOY THE FINEST ENTERTAINMENT FOR ALL THE FAMILY.
Indulge yourself with a getaway in any one of our hotels and be rewarded with complimentary
access to the choicest attractions at The Dubai Mall including the mesmerising Dubai Aquarium
& Underwater Zoo and a spectacular view from At the Top, Burj Khalfia - the 124th floor of the
world’s tallest building. Even choose to be pampered from a host of world-class dining options,
championship golf courses and divine spa treatments.
From luxurious and awe-inspiring to family friendly and entertaining, book now to enjoy complimentary
attraction passes as well as The Dubai Mall Privilege Book packed with vouchers for restaurants and on
shopping in The Dubai Mall. In addition, receive amazing summer rates at The Address Hotels + Resorts
and Southern Sun Al Manzil and Qamardeen Hotels.
tw
For reservations at The Address Hotels + Resorts, please call +971 4 423 8888
www.theaddress.com thr
For Southern Sun Al Manzil and Qamardeen Hotels, please call +971 4 428 6808
www.southernsunme.com
fou
or contact your local travel agent.
fiv

CONTRIBUTORS
TWO
ALEX DANCHEV T HREE

Art is the highest form DANIEL GRANT
of hope. So says the Art is creative
artist Gerhard Richter. expression. Artwork
I like that is a commodity
embodying that
creativity, but it's
subject to the laws
ON E of supply and
ULRICH BOSER demand
Art inspires passion
FO U R
ERIC J LYMAN
Art is beauty,
it is architecture,
ART IS…? it is life around us
FI VE
HUGO MARTINEZ
Art is not relative and
beauty is absolute
one ULRICH BOSER: A Senior Fellow at the Center for American Progress. He writes about social policy issues and is the author of
the best-selling book, The Gardner Heist. He has been published in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Slate and Forbes.
two ALEX DANCHEV: He is the author of a number of acclaimed biographies, among them Georges Braque (Penguin, 2007).
His most recent book is 100 Artist’s Manifestos (Penguin, 2011). He writes regularly for a variety of newspapers and magazines.
He is Professor of International Relations at the University of Nottingham in the UK.
three DANIEL GRANT: The author of several books on the arts, including The Business Of Being An Artist and The Fine Artist's
Career Guide. He is also a contributor to ARTnews Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times and The Huffington Post.
four ERIC J LYMAN: A writer living in Rome who has written for The Economist, USA Today, Time and The Sunday Times
among others. He has won a Silver Medal for the Lowell Thomas Award from the Society of American Travel Writers Foundation.
five HUGO MARTINEZ: The Art Director of the Martinez Gallery in New York, America's premiere showcase for graffiti. In 1972,
he curated the first graffiti gallery show in New York, and he is considered the foremost authority on the genre.
25
OS04_025-025_Contributors.indd27 25
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 5/19/11 3:04:18
5/30/11 2:47:30 PM
I
×Þ
www.citizen-me.com
LEBANON, H.G. Yessayan & Co.: +961 1 335554 / 335559 / 240960 / 240961 MAURITIUS, J. Kalachand & Co Ltd.: +230 2060690 / 2128410 EGYPT, General Commerce
Co. Ltd.: +202 24026782 / 22617044 SAUDI ARABIA, Ali Zaid Al Quraishi & Bros, Jeddah: +966 2 6454444, Riyadh: +966 1 2871354, Dammam: +966 3 8283730, Madina:
+966 4 8380272 / 8380292, Khamis Mushayt: +966 7 2358282, Makkah: +966 2 5611303, Buraydah: +966 6 3245110 QATAR, Blue Saloon: +974 44466111 BAHRAIN,
Yaquby Stores WLL: +973 17210959 / 17210956 UNITED ARAB EMIRATES, Juma Al Majid Establishment, Dubai: +971 4 2281617 / 2231052, Abu Dhabi: +971 2 6444689,
Sharjah: +971 6 5680959 MALDIVES, Reefside Co. Pvt. Ltd.: +960 3323545 JORDAN, Time Center: +962 6 5817575 SYRIA, Dummar and Fattal: +963 11 3331619 OMAN,
Sarco LLC: +968 24709171 / 73 / 74 KUWAIT, Easa Husain Al Yousifi & Sons Co.: +965 24810246

INTRO
×Þº
P. ØÛº melbourne mapped P. 42 º goldie’s skypod P. ÚÛº Milan booty
ART MGOAGD
H TO
FROM VAN RIEF
E TRACE A B
POLLOCK,W O RL D’S
THE W
HISTORY OF ART ISTS
URED
MOST TORT
P46
erce
dina:
AIN,
689,
MAN,
27
OS04_027-027_FOBCover.indd 29
5/30/11 2:55:04 PM
F
Rom
enco
pass
gest
mar
arch
Th
Alta
mar
Rom
maj
two
Paci
Priz
deba
love
Bu
univ
Min
mon
cam
may
beca
the
som
men
rank
thei
buil
Eric

OUR MAN IN
ROME
ROME’S RICH ARTISTIC HERITAGE IS CAUSING PROBLEMS FOR A NEW GENERATION OF ARTISTS
F
or the first few months after it “Romans have an idea what would gather and wouldn’t be shy
opened five years ago, anyone buildings in the centre of the city about telling me their views on how
near the Ara Pacis museum in should look like, and it’s clear the Ara I should paint,” recalls American
Rome’s historical centre was likely to Pacis doesn’t meet that standard,” said Wendy Artin, a painter who first
encounter car horns sounding, with Antonio Basso, an author and retired moved to Rome in 1994. Ilya Gefter,
passing drivers often making vulgar architecture professor from Rome’s a Russian-born painter who splits
gestures toward the glass and white Sapienza University. his time between Toronto, Jerusalem
marble edifice designed by celebrated As the capital of the Roman and Rome, said the beauty of the city
architect Richard Meier. Empire, one of the birthplaces of the also has an impact on a painter’s
The robust structure houses the Renaissance, and the depository of choice of subjects. “Rome is inspiring
Altar of Augustan Peace, an elaborate centuries of Papal commissions and as a place to learn about art, to
marble work commissioned by the collections, Rome is home to what is take in the wonderful facades of
Roman Senate in 13 BC. The first likely the largest collection of artistic buildings, sculpture and paintings,”
major public works project in Italy in and cultural riches in the world. But Gefter said. “But at the same time,
two generations, the provocative Ara rather than inspire new generations doing any artwork that is personal
Pacis — like most work by the Pritzker of painters, sculptors, and architects, is tremendously difficult in Rome.
Prize-winning Meier — sparked rich the consensus seems to be that the The visual richness makes it easy to
debate among art and architecture past can be as much of a burden as a respond to what’s around you, but
lovers around the world. source of inspiration. A contemporary it’s not a great place to explore what’s
But in Rome it was almost art scene exists, but is fractured and inside you.” Ricardo Harris-Fuentes,
universally panned. Italian Prime surprisingly small. a Mexican-American painter who
Minister Silvio Berlusconi called it “a Modern art galleries come and go, lived in Rome for three years, said the
monstrosity” and Gianni Alemanno’s and critics report that the busiest city’s cultural touchstones represent
campaign that made him Rome’s exhibitions in Rome are still those their own challenges. “When I lived in
mayor in 2008 was won in part connected in some way to classicism. Rome I remember feeling good about
because he promised to remove Most artists in the city have a few hours’ painting I’d put in, and
the building and replace it with anecdotes about how Romans brought I’d take a break by walking around
something “more appropriate”. Both up amid so much classical beauty can the city,” Harris-Fuentes said. “I’d
men were echoing the thoughts of be tough critics. step into a church and find myself
rank-and-file Romans, who voiced “When I first arrived in Rome I studying a painting by Caravaggio.
their views on the modern-looking was a little surprised to find that After that, the work I’d done didn’t
building with car horns and gestures. when I’d work in public, people seem as great anymore.”
Eric J. Lyman is a writer based in Rome. His website is www.ericjlyman.com
29
OS04_029-029_OurMan.indd 2931
5/30/11 2:56:49 PM
GRAPH
INFORMATION ELEGANCE
ILLUSTRATION: MED NESS // HTTP://AHMERICARNATION.TUMBLR.COM
30
OS04_030-031_Graph.indd 30 32
5/30/11 3:01:41 PM OS04_030-031
ILLUSTRATION: MED NESS // HTTP://AHMERICARNATION.TUMBLR.COM
31
9/11 3:01:41 PM OS04_030-031_Graph.indd 31 33

5/30/11 3:01:42 PM
TWITTER PITCH
HONG KONG
GALLERIES
Every month we profile a number of venues in a different city. The catch?
The companies must be on Twitter and must tell us in their own words what
makes them so special. This month, we feature Hong Kong’s best galleries.
If you want to get involved, follow us at: www.twitter.com/openskiesmag
ufo ooi botos

gallery art
Established in 2009, ufo Gallery is Ooi Botos is one of the leaders in
Hong Kong’s first gallery to present photography and new media and
modern, edgy low brow and street is respected for its commitment to
art. Currently by appointment only. scholarship and education of Hong
www.twitter.com/ufoartgallery Kong’s art-loving public.
www.twitter.com/ooibotosarthk
misch- Above video-

masch second tage
Mischmasch is an online artist Above Second is an artist-run gallery HK’s most exciting alternative art
community with a gallery in and studio space in Sai Ying Pun, space, dedicated to the presentation &
Central where members show Hong Kong. Showcasing young and preservation of avant-garde video and
their work, highlighting young emerging local and international media art since 1986. We art &
contemporary artists. contemporary artists. creative technology.
www.twitter.com/_mischmasch_ www.twitter.com/AboveSecondHK www.twitter.com/videotage
33
OS04_033-033_TwitterPitch.indd3533
5/30/11 3:07:08 PM
B
CH
MY
SA
AR
A
inte
inte
firm
on t
his c
art c
fello
in th
onc
cha
Emi
So
in 2
Eve
the
crit
prov
prov
alw
W
to g
inte
wou
man
Mar
1980
stud
to sa
mor
Brit

BOOKED
CHARLES SAATCHI —
MY NAME IS CHARLES
SAATCHI AND I AM AN
ARTOHOLIC
A
dvertising mogul and art
collector extraordinaire
Charles Saatchi doesn’t do
interviews. Or at least not many ROOM
interviews. Despite his former
firm Saatchi & Saatchi’s impact 1710
on the world of advertising and THE FOUR SEASONS
his continuing importance as an BEIRUT
art collector, Saatchi is an illusive
fellow, disinclined to indulge
in the kind of self-promotion Beirut, for obvious reasons, is not a
once favoured by the artists he INTERNET SPEED: 2MBPs city of skyscrapers, which makes the
championed — the likes of Tracy PILLOWS: Eight view from the 17th floor of the Four
Emin and Damien Hirst. ENGLISH TV CHANNELS: Yes, 48 Seasons quite spectacular,
So when this book was published channels including CNN, BBC particularly at dusk when the setting
in 2009 it was a bit of a surprise. IPOD DOCK: Yes sun lights up the mountains that
Even more unexpected was that ROOM SERVICE: Yes, 90 dishes surround the city. In a region where
the book is a Q&A session, with CLUB SANDWICH DELIVERY TIME: 26 the star rating system is much abused,
critics, press and the public minutes The Four Seasons is a true five-star
providing questions and Saatchi COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Fruit, hotel; every whim is catered for, and
providing the often pretentious, but chocolates, nuts the service is impeccable. In a city of
always intriguing, answers. TOILETRY BRAND: Moya rather poor service, this is refreshing,
Why Saatchi suddenly decided DAILY NEWSPAPER: The Daily Star although the trade off is that you
to give what is, essentially, a big EXTRAS: DVD player, iron and board, silk could be anywhere. You definitely
interview is unclear. But, who padded hangers, double housecleaning won’t get any local flavour while
wouldn’t want to hear what the BUSINESS CENTRE: Yes, 24 hours ensconsed within its pristine walls,
man responsible for making VIEW: 4.5/5 but that is probably the point. The
Margaret Thatcher electable in the RATE: From $375 per night location, right by the corniche and
1980s and turning a couple of art a two-minute walk from bustling
WWW.FOURSEASONS.COM/ BEIRUT
students into stars in the 1990s has Gemmayze, is perfect. Beirut has
to say for himself? After all, for more interesting hotels than this,
more than a decade, Saatchi was but none more luxurious.
British art. Phaidon, 2009
35
OS04_035-035_RoomBooked.indd
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 37 35 5/19/11 3:04:32
5/30/11 5:07:08 PM
MAPPED
MELBOURNE
Melbourne has the understated urban cool of

Tribeca or Berlin, not the hard-bodied flashiness
of LA. In Sydney, everyone thinks they are a rock
star. In Melbourne, everyone thinks they’re
a barista. The weather is grim, but it adds to the
theatrical nature of the city where, like London,
the centre of life exists mainly indoors — in the
galleries, boutiques and bookshops (it’s a city
where people still buy books from independent
bookshops). The city is as cosmopolitan as
its demographics suggest (35 per cent of
the population is made up of first-generation
immigrants). Melbournites take their wining
and dining very seriously and gourmet pretence
is scoffed at. The best restaurants are small,
dank, dark, and packed with rickety tables and
rude waiters. HG2’s Luciano Di Gregorio explores
Melbourne’s most interesting venues.
WWW.HG2.COM
HOTELS
1. Crown Metropol 2. The Blackman 3. The Windsor 4. The Como
RESTAURANTS
�. Giuseppe Arnaldo 6. Comme Bar 7.Vue de Monde 8. Stavros Tavern
& Sons
36
OS04_036-037_Mapped.indd
5/30/11 3:13:31 PM OS04_036-037
BARS / CLUBS
9. Spice Market 10. Blue Diamond 11. Madame Butterfly 12. Silk Road
GALLERIES
13. National Gallery 14. Ian Potter Centre 15. Heide Museum 16. Anna Schwartz
of Victoria of Modern Art Gallery
37
9/11 3:13:31 PM OS04_036-037_Mapped.indd 3739

5/30/11 3:13:33 PM
MAPPED
MELBOURNE
HOTELS
1 CROWN METROPOL 2 THE BLACKMAN 3 THE WINDSOR 4 THE COMO
One of the swishest The Blackman is one The elegant ‘Old Dame’ Packed with the city’s
buildings on the of Melbourne’s most of Melbourne is more glitterati, The Como’s
Melbourne skyline is also luxurious designer than 120 years old and designer rooms and
one of the funkiest hotels hotels. With 209 rooms exudes charm. Apart famed bar are not the
in town. A range of rooms nestled in on the famed from its amazing rooms only reason to stay, as
complements its world St Kilda Road, you won’t and impeccable service, Chapel St, Australia’s
class dining, all close to be far from some of the it offers the best Sunday longest shopping strip, is
some great shopping. city’s leading restaurants. afternoon high tea. located at its front door.
RESTAURANTS
5 GIUSEPPE ARNALDO 6 COMME BAR 7 VUE DE MONDE 8 STAVROS TAVERN
& SONS Comme Bar rolls classic The dynamic atmosphere You might expect a
GAS took Melbourne elegance with modern and finest French cuisine bouzouki-playing Greek
by storm. From the chic and just a hint of in the city make Vue de man to escort you to
exterior glass panels French inspiration. Chef Monde a sophisticated your seat. But the Stavros
etched with images of Daniel Southern breaks choice. The food is of the Tavern is all about the
the porticos of Rome, to the mould, offering a ‘left highest quality, the décor modern aspects of Greek
the contemporary Italian field’ French bistro menu is sexy and the service cuisine, inspired by belly-
cuisine, GAS is superb. with a twist. unimpeachable. bursting lamb dishes.
BARS/CLUBS
9 SPICE MARKET 10 BLUE DIAMOND 11 MADAME BUTTERFLY 12 SILK ROAD
Tucked away off one of Bring it and swing it! Blue In the city’s ever changing Don your gladrags and
the CBD’s main roads, this Diamond is Melbourne’s bar scene, it’s good to show off in this glamorous
is one of the city’s busiest hippest jazz bar and is the see that this institution is ‘East meets West’ bar
clubs. Get down and place to be seen at the as popular as ever. Its fame where Melbourne’s
boogie on the weekends weekend. Get in early for a is partly due to its open-air party people converge.
or come for ladies’ night seat at one of its coveted roof terrace. Enjoy pitchers Ever since its opening,
on a Thursday. Cheesy, lounge areas, complete with with views over the city’s Silk Road has raised the
but a lot of fun. stunning views over the city. financial district. standards of the bar scene.
GALLERIES
13 NATIONAL GALLERY 14 IAN POTTER CENTRE 15 HEIDE MUSEUM OF 16 ANNA SCHWARTZ
OF VICTORIA It is fitting to enjoy the largest MODERN ART GALLERY
Though it may look like collection of Australian art Competing with the Tucked away in Flinders
a block of concrete from in a gallery with a spot on more popular NGV Lane, one of the city’s
the outside, the NGV sports Australia’s architecturally collections doesn’t seem creative hubs, its vision is
an extensive collection of controversial Federation to bother the operators a simple one: to showcase
ancient and modern art and Square. The 25,000 pieces of this funky gallery, set in the best local and
is one of the city’s cultural include Aboriginal and Torres parkland about 8km from international artists in a
‘must sees’. Strait Islander art. the centre of town. minimalist environment.
38
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 3840
OS04_036-037_Mapped.indd 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:04:47
3:13:34 PM
9/11 3:13:34 PM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 41 5/30/11 3:04:48 PM
FLICK
CELLULOID DISSECTED
W
hen he wasn’t painting Underground’s eponymous debut want you to react. As his soup tin pictu
soup tins, Andy Warhol album. And then there were paintings raised the question “what Tha
shot movies that made his movies. is art?” so Andy’s movies left the Holl
a mockery of the mainstream. But Between 1963 and 1968, Warhol audience querying, “what constitutes the l
if his films were strange, the fact he made more than 60 movies. That cinema?” To understand how relia
became a Hollywood darling was extraordinary figure doesn’t include pertinent a question this was, you com
downright surreal. his trademark screen tests — black- have to remember that Warhol was inde
and-white shorts he made whenever shooting pictures like The Chelsea shoo
Andy Warhol looks a scream someone new visited his Factory Girls (a brace of films designed to to hi
Hang him on my wall. studio. If it did, the number would be be shown side by side) in the days atte
Andy Warhol, silver screen around the 600 mark. Prolific though before Bonnie & Clyde and Easy Rider Ame
Can’t tell them apart at all. he might have been, Andy didn’t tend reinvigorated Hollywood film. At a O
— David Bowie, Andy Warhol to publicise his work. Indeed, there’s a time when the musical and the pre- mov
good chance you won’t know the title Sam Peckinpah western held sway, iron
You might not have thought it of any of these pictures. That said, it’s Andy Warhol thumbed his nose at a Holl
to look at him, but Andy Warhol just as possible you’ve heard about Hollywood he believed wasn’t fully once
was one of the modern art world’s the eight-hour picture that consisted realising the form. Ever
workaholics. Not content with of a single shot of the Empire State Not that Andy’s directing skills I wa
painting Brillo Pad boxes and a Building (official title: Empire) and/or would give John Ford and Orson from
certain brand of soup tin, the man the picture he made of a man enjoying Welles sleepless nights. As a man
born Andrew Warhol also found six hours of shuteye (aka Sleep). talented artist, Warhol has a good plas
time to launch his own magazine, “What odd movies,” you might say, understanding of composition but long
Interview, and produce the Velvet and that’s exactly how Warhol would you’d be hard pushed to describe his fide
40
OS04_040-041_Flick.indd 40 42 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:04:49
3:16:10 PM OS04_040-041
pictures as aesthetically pleasing. just 58 — but his cameo appearance surprise that the best big screen
at That said, while the great and good in in Sydney Pollack’s comedy-drama Warhol to date should have been
Hollywood were bound to MGM and Tootsie hints at what might have been. essayed by a man widely ridiculed
tes the like, Warhol’s daring and self- But it would take more than for his acting. “I thought David Bowie
reliance — advertising and portrait death to prevent Andy Warhol from made a great Andy Warhol,” said
commissions secured his financial conquering Hollywood. Since he Dennis Hopper when asked about the
s independence — meant he was free to was a huge, world-shaping figure, rock star’s performance in Basquiat,
shoot whatever he pleased. And thanks film-makers queued up to showcase the film about the Haitian-American
to his standing, he was guaranteed the Warhol in their stories. Just four modern artist of that name. A Factory
attention of both the art world and the short years after his passing, acolyte himself, Hopper had jumped
ider American studio system. Crispin Glover delivered a spot-on at the opportunity to play Warhol’s
a Of course, Warhol’s experimental impersonation of the Pope of Pop Art agent, Bruno Bischofberger. But it
e- movies were underpinned by the great in Oliver Stone’s The Doors. Jared was the Thin White Duke’s work
y, irony that Andy was a huge fan of ‘son of Richard’ Harris also did a very that really impressed the Easy Rider
a Hollywood and its superstars. As he good turn in I Shot Andy Warhol, star. “He had Andy down pat — every
y once said: “I love LA. I love Hollywood. a film about the 1960s radical and awkward flinch and pained grimace.
Everything’s plastic, but I love plastic. would-be assassin Valerie Solanas. And David had been allowed to wear
I want to be plastic.” And judging And LA Confidential star Guy Pearce one of Warhol’s wigs. It was incredible
from his behaviour in the 1980s, our also did a good job of channelling the — it still smelt of Andy!”
man was keen to become a full-blown man nicknamed Drella in the Edie Andy Warhol — experimental
plastic person. Alas, Andy didn’t live Sedgwick biopic Factory Girl. moviemaker turned posthumous
long enough to transform into a bona Given how mannered Warhol’s movie star. May his memory linger for
is fide movie star — he died in 1987, aged behaviour was, it’s perhaps no many years to come.
41
9/11 3:16:10 PM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd

OS04_040-041_Flick.indd 41 43 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:04:49
3:16:24 PM
SKYPOD
GRAFFITI
GRAFFITI
ARTIST,
ARTIST,
DISC JOCKEY
DISC JOCKEY
AND BOND
AND BOND
VILLAIN
VILLAIN
– GOLDIE
– GOLDIE
GIVES GIVES
US HISUS
PERFECT
HIS PERFECT
PLAYLIST.
PLAYLIST.
WWW.GOLDIE.CO.UK
WWW.GOLDIE.CO.UK
CAN — VITAMIN C M
The most underrated band of all time. G
Pioneers in experimental sounds a
and way ahead of their time. Their D
percussion and drums are out of this
world and are still being sampled.
SEBASTIEN TELLIER –
LA RITOURNELLE
Beautiful arrangement.
Just a nice, uplifting tune.
BECK — NEW
POLLUTION
This is my MOD
soundtrack. I put my
shades on and have a
dance whenever I hear
this song.
PAT METHENY —
THE WAY UP PART 3
My all time musical hero. The ultimate
journey in music. I listen to this track every BLOOD, SWEAT & TEARS — I LOVE
single day. Usually during bath time. YOU MORE THAN YOU’LL EVER KNOW
Classic soul tune. Really puts you in the
mood for loving!
42

OS04_042-43_Skypod.indd 42 5/19/11 3:19:23 PM
OS04_042-43_Skyp
MILES DAVIS – DECOY TALKING HEADS —
Given to me by 3D from Massive Attack on CROSSEYED AND PAINLESS
a cassette tape with the soundtrack for Taxi David Byrne is one of the greatest
Driver on the B side. singer/songwriters of all time and
this tune is just class.
SAM PREKOP —
SHOWROOMS
Given to me by my friend Damon
Way whilst snowboarding in
Alaska. Beautiful and breezy with
a laid-back west coast vibe.
PRINCE — SIGN O’ THE TIMES

First song I heard on the radio
station WBLS when I arrived in
NYC in 1988 at the beginning of
my graffiti career. A real portrayal
of inner city life.
SUPERTRAMP —
THE LOGICAL SONG
When I first arrived in Croxdene’s
children’s home, after failing my third
foster encounter, this was the record on
the gramophone, which I played over,
and over again until I had to be dragged
out of the room kicking and screaming. It
was the very first experience I had with
JUDIE TZUKE — becoming conscious through music.
STAY WITH ME ’TIL DAWN
Probably the first time I heard strings arranged with such
beautiful vocals. Still makes the hair stand up on my arms.
43

/19/11 3:19:23 PM
OS04_042-43_Skypod.indd 43 5/19/11 3:19:25 PM
ILLUSTRATION BY VESNA PESIC
Eating fish twice a week is good for your heart.

If you care for a heart-healthy diet then start enjoying oily fish such as fresh tuna, sardines
or salmon on the menu at least twice a week. Oily fish comes with low saturated fat and
omega-3 fatty acids, known to be beneficial for preventing heart disease and certain
cancers. At Daman, we believe you can enjoy staying healthy – the easy way.
www.damanhealth.ae | 800 4 DAMAN (32626)
da_Annual ad Open skies emirates_inflight

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 46 Fish_E_26x19.5.indd 1 5/15/11
5/30/11 6:41 PM
3:04:53 PM OS04_045-047
LOCAL VOICES
EMIRATI ART EMERGES

INTO THE SPOTLIGHT
CURATING
CHANGE
ART IS BECOMING AN INCREASINGLY IMPORTANT MEANS
OF EXPRESSION FOR EMIRATIS, SAYS WAEL AL SAYEGH
T
here was a time, not so over the years? Thankfully (“If I
long ago, when the only see one more falcon painting, I’m
paintings you would see telling you…”) the answer is an
on entering an Emirati home overwhelming ‘yes’.
were those with a strong theme of First of all, art is no longer
heritage. Among the most common something confined to the inner
were proud images of Arabian walls of our homes; it’s everywhere.
horses galloping in the open desert, It’s in our places of work, of
falcons swooping down on their recreation, and of entertainment.
prey, and traditional wooden fishing Art is now a permanent feature
dhows lying patiently on their sides of Dubai’s geography, with
waiting for the tide to come in. locations such as the Al Quoz
This was artistic reality for the industrial area and Al Bastakiya
vast majority of Emiratis and becoming well known cultural
other Gulf nationals. Paintings areas in the city, The modern
and artwork falling outside this sculptures and art galleries
comfort zone, in particular those scattered all over the Dubai
that displayed the contours of International Financial Centre
human figures and faces, were (DIFC) add much needed colour
ILLUSTRATION BY VESNA PESIC
deemed un-Islamic and frowned and energy to the black, white and
upon by conservatives. Abstract grey of the financial world.
paintings were perhaps the only Art Dubai, a contemporary
refuge for those who wished to arts fair held annually, turns the
venture outside the familiar circle. city itself into a canvas. With
Has this artistic reality changed workshops, seminars and young
45
5/15/11 6:41 PM OS04_045-047_Column.indd 4547

5/30/11 3:22:54 PM
artists’ programmes, it ushers in But how much have all these prominent Emirati couple Yousif the
a fresh breeze of internationally developments penetrated into bin Zayed and his wife Shamsa, way
acclaimed artists and buyers from Emirati lives, affecting hearts who own and operate the gallery Ree
all over the globe. and minds? There are now Art Connections. To witness their who
Locally, the Dubai Community distinguished Emirati collectors son growing up surrounded by and
& Arts Centre (DUCTAC) has such as Sultan Al Qassimi, Muna and immersed in art holds out a hori
played a vital role in reaching Al Gurg and Mishall Khanoo. We promise to future generations hav
out to art lovers in the city. But owe much of the development of of Emiratis. not
perhaps nothing shows how serious the art scene to these individuals, Then there are the Emirati artists At
the UAE is about the future of art who have used their profiles to themselves, a source of pride to are
more than government investment promote art and its role in modern the country, and our ambassadors iden
to attract international artistic Emirati life. And involvement in in the world of art. Abdul Qader exp
brands such as the Guggenheim art can now provide a full-time Al Rais, Dr Najat Makki and sign
and the Louvre to its shores. career for some, such as the Abdulrahim Salim are just a few of a ve
A BRIEF HISTORY OF TORTURED ARTISTS
1571 15 89 1853 1864
A painter of unreal Johannes van der Beeck The Dutch master, Henri de Toulouse-
abilities, Caravaggio was redefined painting in his Vincent van Gogh was a Lautrec was a dwarf,
also a complete nutter. lifetime. He was also genius, as well as being the result of some
He killed one man in a accused of being a unstable and a manic unfortunate inbreeding,
“brawl” in 1606 and “satanist, heretic and depressive. He cut off and was dogged by bad
narrowly escaped being blasphemer” by the his left ear in a brothel, health his entire life.
killed in another street Dutch government and was kicked out of a He died an alcoholic
fight a few years later. sentenced to 20 years town for being a at 36, riven by syphilis
He even had a death imprisonment. He was ‘redheaded mad man’ and self loathing. His
warrant issued for him eventually released, but and eventually shot work fared better, one
by the Pope. He died at not before undergoing a himself in the chest, painting fetching $22.5
36, revered, but alone. spell on the ‘Rack’. dying two days later. million in 2005.
46
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd4648
OS04_045-047_Column.indd 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:04:55
3:22:59 PM OS04_045-047
LOCAL VOICES
sif the pioneers who have paved the serve as a form of cathartic self can be very high, ranging from
, way for up-and-coming artists like expression, almost as a therapy. It unfulfilled expectations of
y Reem Al Gauth and Wasel Safwan, allows for the channelling of much marriage and family, to actual
ir who are enriching our experience creative energy that cannot be social marginalisation.
and expanding our artistic harnessed by other means. The great Spanish painter
horizons. Their styles, all different, In a tribal culture, what society Pablo Picasso once said that
have also shown that Emirati art is considers appropriate and not “painting is just another way of
not a homogenous field. appropriate wields considerable keeping a diary”. With the Arab
ists At a time when many Emiratis influence over many aspects world currently going through an
are struggling with issues of of life. Emirati artists are unprecedented awakening that
ors identity, which is only to be courageously stretching the makes us question the inner core
expected for any group exposed to boundaries, sometimes even of our lives, the art work produced
significant changes in lifestyle in breaching them altogether. The now is going to be one worth
w of a very short space of time, art can price to pay for such an approach keeping a close eye on.
190 4 1907 1912 1963
Unique is a much Dogged by constant An alcoholic who died Tracey Emin is a very
abused word, but the pain after a car crash in a drink-related car modern tortured art-
term applies to Salvador in her teenage years, crash, Jackson Pollock ist. She has appeared
Dali. The Spanish artist Frida Kahlo is a Mexican is regarded as one drunk and swearing on
was also extremely national treasure. Her of America’s finest TV, has had very public
strange. He once arrived paintings, often self painters. He was also a arguments with artists
at a lecture dressed in a portraits, are full of psy- depressive who cheated and journalists, and
diving suit leading two chological pain. Some on his wife and suffered does not seem to be
Russian wolfhounds. believe her death, at the a nervous breakdown. able to speak publicly
His ego was monstrous; age of 47, was suicide. No amount of fame or without causing uproar.
he believed he was im- After a life filled with money could tame his Her work is equally
mortal. He died at 84. agony, she was at peace. inner demons. controversial.
47

OS04_045-047_Column.indd 4749 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:04:57
3:23:12 PM
PTSOLAR.pdf 4/20/11 9:56:47 AM
INTE
M
T
SA
ON
Sinc
C
by ar
M
loved
Y
and
CM
My p
MY open
CY be m
CMY
ON
The
to m
Pakis
has s
quite
ama
to m
ON
Beiru
huge
Art C
the h
othe
ing, s
scen

INTERVIEW
MY
TRAVELLED LIFE
SALMA TUQAN, 26, CURATOR
ON INFLUENCES ON ARTISTS a Londoner, you can have an identity of

Since I was a kid I have been surrounded I meet artists from around the world, from your own, but still be a part of the city.
by artwork. My parents were collectors and the US, Europe, the Middle East and Asia,
loved art. I travelled a lot and moved about and despite the very different backgrounds,
and that sort of life was normal for me. there are some common threads. They all ON THE V & A MUSEUM
My parents travelled a lot, they were always have a passion and dedication. In a lot of the The Victoria and Albert museum is the
open minded and adventurous. They would locations I have been to, it is quite difficult most prestigious art and design museum,
be my biggest influence. to pursue art as a career due to financial and with the largest amount of touring
political problems. exhibitions, and it was one of the first
institutions that collected Islamic art in
ON SURPRISES when it was set up in the 1850s. I love the
The two places that were really surprising ON LONDON concern it shows about Islamic art and
to me were Lamu, off the coast of Kenya, and What I love about London is that there is artists from the Middle East and it is an
Pakistan. Lamu is a place caught in time, it something for everyone. There is so much amazing place to work. The Jameel Prize
has some Islamic influences, but you can’t going on and I feel lucky to live there. In is a great way to celebrate the diversity of
quite place where you are. Karachi was London I feel I can be Palestinian and also artists who are producing work right now
amazing, so energetic, and I managed
to meet so many artists there.
ON BEIRUT
Beirut is a fantastic art centre, there is a
huge amount of creativity and the Beirut
Art Centre and private philanthropy is at
the heart of that. Of course, there are lots of
other places in the region that are fascinat-
ing, such as Tunis. Who knows what the art
scene will be like there in a couple of years.
49
OS04_049-049_Skycats.indd 4951 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:05:00
3:29:38 PM
STREET PEEP • ER
PARIS «WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM «

SINGER, NEW YOUNG
Zara jacket PONY CLUB
Celine shoes & skirt
Lucien Pellat-Finet Jean Charles de
sweater Castelbajac sequined dress

FASHION EDITOR
FLARE MAGAZINE
DESIGNER
Rick Owens coat
Club Monaco top Natuka shirt and trousers
Celine bag Marc by Marc Jacobs bag
Christian Louboutin shoes
50
OS04_050-051_Peeper.indd
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd5052 5/19/11 3:05:01
5/30/11 3:32:30 PM OS04_050-051
G
BLOGGER

MODEL Louis Vuitton trousers
ess Miu Miu bag

STYLIST
FASHION DESIGNER
sers Christopher Kane dress
bag Vika Gazinskaya dress Alaia shoes
51
9/11 3:32:30 PM OS04_050-051_Peeper.indd 5153

5/30/11 3:32:58 PM
PLACE
A RC H
A RC
I T EHCITTU
ECRT
E UMAP
R E MAP
P ED P ED LIGHT,
LIGHT,
CASACASA
BATLLÓ«
BATLLÓ«
« ÇÏÆÌ
« ÇÏÆÌ
IMAGE: CRISTINA VERONESI
52

OS04_052-053_Place.indd 52 5/19/11 3:35:09 PMOS04_052-053_Pla
IMAGE: CRISTINA VERONESI
53

19/11 3:35:09 PMOS04_052-053_Place.indd 53 5/19/11 3:35:18 PM
STORE
U R B A N CA RTO G RA P H Y «PALAIS DOROTHEUM«VIENNA «AUCTION HOUSE
S
tepping into the vaulted atrium
of the Palais Dorotheum, one
of Europe’s oldest and most
venerable auction houses, is like
embarking on an epic treasure hunt.
Beyond this point who knows what you
might find: Biedermeier silver, Wiener
Werkstätte ceramics, Jugendstil
jewellery, wartime toys. Vienna’s passion
for art and aesthetics, its imperial
nostalgia and its penchant for cutting-
edge design are all reflected in these
stately halls. “The Dorotheum is as
Viennese as St Stephen’s Cathedral and
the State Opera House,” enthuses
managing director Martin Böhm, whose
father used to take him on outings to the
auction house as a child.
Founded by Emperor Joseph I in
1707, takes its name from the
Dorotheum Convent that once stood
here. In 1901 it was given a neo-baroque
makeover by Hapsburg favourite
Emil Ritter von Förster, the renowned
Ringstrasse Boulevard architect. Today
it hosts 600 auctions a year, across 40
different departments.
“What makes the Dorotheum special
is its diversity, its willingness to embrace
tradition and innovation. Contemporary
art and design are among our most
important departments,” says Böhm.
What strikes the first-time visitor is
the Dorotheum’s ‘open house’ feel. This
is not just the haunt of die-hard bidders
seeking a Rubens or an Adolf Loos
masterpiece. Art enthusiasts treat it as
a gallery, shoppers as an antique shop,
WORDS: KERRY CHRISTIANI
54
OS04_054-055_Store.indd 54 56 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:05:07
3:37:47 PM OS04_054-055
the Viennese as a unique spot to meet for
coffee. All are welcome to attend the daily
auctions, with categories ranging from
stamps and books to glass and porcelain.
According to Böhm, the best time to visit
is during the four action-packed auction
weeks. “Come in April and October for
Old Masters and 19th century works, in
November and May for contemporary
and modern art and design,”
These are the weeks of high prices and
big-name lots. None more remarkable,
in Böhm’s opinion, than Frans Francken
the Younger’s painting Allegory Of Man’s
Choice Between Virtue And Vice (1635)
bought for a staggering $10.9 million
(14 times the original estimate) in April
2010. “I always considered it something
of a hidden gem, but the bidding war was
astonishing and completely unexpected.
It was the highest price ever achieved for
an Old Master painting in Austria and a
world record for a Frans Francken.”
For those who shy away from the
bidding, there is the fixed-price
Dorotheum Gallery, Vienna’s largest
antiques store, where an Augarten mocca
service designed by Josef Hoffman is
available for $993, a 1920s Viennese
silver dish for a modest $130. Or take a
seat in the Dorotheum Café to observe
the auction-goers below over coffee and
torte, and ponder how you would spend
$10 million here if you had it.
Palais Dorotheum, Dorotheergasse 17. A-1010

Vienna, 0043 1 515 60; www.dorotheum.com
55

OS04_054-055_Store.indd 55 57 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:05:07
3:37:50 PM
1 2 3 4
BOOTY M I LA N
Pasta Box, $9.
A stylish storage
Aldo Cibic Soap Dish,
$24. Quirky soap dish
Barrati Sweets, $7.
An assortment of
Mi
Lo
box with a sense of that will look good in classic caramel wi
LIVE A BEAUTIFUL LIFE humour. What more your bathroom. sweets courtesy of ba
WITH THIS SELECTION
could you want?. Design Supermarket, the legendary firm. Mis
OF STYLISH TREATS.
Design Supermarket, Rinsacente Deparment Motta Cafe & Shop, Nap
Rinsacente Deparment Store, Piazza del Duomo Piazzale Luigi Cadorna
Store, Piazza del Duomo
PRODUCTS 1, 4 AND 5 ARE AVAILABLE AT HARVEY NICHOLS, MALL OF THE EMIRATES.

2
1 3
56
OS04_056-057_Booty.indd 56 58
5/30/11 4:43:22 PM OS04_056-057
4 5 6 7
Missoni Towels, $110. Prada Luxotica Bialetti Coffee Pot, $22. Moleskin Milan0, $11.
Look and feel good Sunglasses, $POD. Ensure your morning Detailed maps
with these colourful Glorious green, white is full of beans with bookend this classic
bath towels. and black combine on this minimal gem. Moleskin notebook.
Missoni. Via Monte these classic frames. Design Supermarket, American Bookstore,
Napoleone Prada, Via Nirone Rinsacente Deparment Via Manfredo Camperio
Store, Piazza del Duomo
PRODUCTS 1, 4 AND 5 ARE AVAILABLE AT HARVEY NICHOLS, MALL OF THE EMIRATES.
4 5 7
57
9/11 4:43:22 PM OS04_056-057_Booty.indd 57 59

5/30/11 4:43:28 PM
j

CALENDAR
1
2
ed
W
3
u
Th
4 DUBAI DANCE FESTIVAL
i
Fr
t
Sa 5 A celebration of the best in regional and
n global dance. www.dubaidancefestival.com
Su 6
on
M 7
e
Tu
8
ed
W
9
u DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL
Th
Fri
10 Beijing hosts one of the world’s most
colourful and exciting boat races.
Sat
11 www.ebeijing.gov.cn
Sun
12
Mon 13
june Tue
Wed
14
15
FINKE DESERT RACE
Off-road motorbiking through

Australia’s harsh Northern Territory.
Thu 16 www.finkedesertrace.com.au
Fri 17
Sat
18
Sun
19 THE US OPEN
Mon
20 Golf’s finest will be battling it out
at this Major championship in
Tue
21 Maryland. www.usopen.com
We
d
22
Th
u
23
Fr
i
24
Sa WOMEN’S WORLD CUP
t
Su
25
n Germany hosts the world’s top
M
on
26 female footballers in action.
www.fifa.com/womensworldcup
Tu
e
27
28
W
ed
Th
29
u
30
59
OS04_059-059_Calendar.indd 59
5/30/11 4:15:02 PM
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K
O N
B E N E T T M
EY
Ü×º
TURK
N E T T O N
B E
“Turkey can count on solid know-how and a strong tradition in apparel
manufacturing: this is why we have invested here for over twenty years.
Being here today means focusing on the energy, dynamism and
determination of a young and modern country that is growing
rapidly and looking to the future.”
Biagio Chiarolanza, CEO
• A population of 73 million, half of which is under • Access to Europe, Caucasus, Central Asia, the Middle
the age of 28.8 East and North Africa
• Approximately 450,000 students graduated from
around 150 universities and other higher education • 16th largest economy of the world and the 6th largest
institutions in 2009 economy as compared to the EU countries in 2009
• Over 25 million young, well-educated and motivated (IMF-WEO)
labor force • 15th most attractive FDI destination for 2008-2010
• Highly competitive investment conditions
• A country that offers 100% and more tax deductions (UNCTAD World Investment Prospects Survey)
on R&D expenditures • Fastest growing economy in Europe in 2010

MAIN
Ü×º ¨ P. 82 º the heist P. Þ×º cultural evolution P. ÖÕ×º graffiti grows up
E
STRANGS
WORLDTURNS
HO
THE MAN W
Y OB JECTS INTO
EVERYDA
SCENES
STUNNING
P112
t
9
61
OS04_061-061_MAINCover.indd6361
5/30/11 4:49:48 PM
62
OS04_062-070_Picasso.indd 5/30/11 11:21:44
5/22/11 3:05:15 PM
AM OS04_062-070
POLITICS, PROFIT AND PRIDE
BY ALEX DANCHEV
63
11 11:21:44 AM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd
OS04_062-070_Picasso.indd 6365 5/30/11 11:21:44
5/22/11 3:05:16 PM
AM
PICASS0
P
icasso was nothing if museums. The very last paintings,
not self-centred. He sex-obsessed and genitally-fixated,
had a monstrous ego. once described as “incoherent doodles
Classically trained done by a frenetic dotard in the
and precociously anteroom of death”, have undergone
talented, at the age of 25 he painted a spectacular revaluation. His last
Les Demoiselles d’Avignon, a work works come garlanded with praise, for
that would be hailed as a revolution in their verve, their candour, their lust,
art. At the time, however, it was hard and their rage. In the awesome power
to take. The visceral impact on those of his artistic personality, Pablo
who saw it in the artist’s studio may Picasso took on the 20th century.
be gauged from the legendary French That project involved more than
painter, André Derain’s comment, painting. Picasso was finely attuned
often repeated, “that painting of to self-presentation – his image was
this sort was an impasse, at the end carefully cultivated.
of which lay only suicide; that one Contrary to his boast, he never
fine morning we would find Picasso learned to swim. He mimicked the
hanging behind his large canvas”. strokes whilst keeping his feet on the
After that, in concert with Georges bottom. He was larger than life, but
Braque, he cooked up Cubism, a human, all too human. What he was,
revolution in art and in the way we or what he could be, was for him a
see the world; but he did not truly source of endless fascination.
become Picasso until after the First He who invented so much did not
World War, when he was pushing invent artistic self-fashioning, but he
40. Amazingly, he maintained that is the supreme exemplar of artistic
position for another 50 years. He self-fashioning in modern times.
always wanted to paint forever, and in He longed to be fêted, presented and
a sense he did. preserved, always on his own terms.
He died in 1973, at the age of 91, at No one strikes a better attitude, on
the height of his fame. The catalogue and off camera.
of his painting runs to a monumental In the Cubist period, long before
23 volumes, more than half of them there were celebrity photographers
devoted to the work of the last 20 around, he took the photographs
years of his life, a stupendous over- himself. Here, too, he was ahead of
production by the most productive the game. He turned his best tricks
artist in recorded history. with crafty casting – Braque, his
Death hardly interrupted his work. beloved rival and partner in crime,
The posthumous productivity shows appears as a barman, handy with
no sign of abating. As the shock effect bottle and glass – but his favourite
of his paintings wears off, more and genre was the self-portrait.
more of them have been assimilated The self-fashioning extended into
into popular culture; the great Picasso every aspect of his life, even his
is growing greater with every passing politics, in particular his commitment
year. Not only has he entered the to the French Communist Party (the
Louvre, the palace of bliss for the PCF), which he joined in 1944 and
souls of the dead, he has his own never ventured to leave. It is hardly DRAWING WITH LIGHT AT HIS HOME IN 1948
64
OS04_062-070_Picasso.indd
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 6466 5/22/11
5/30/11 11:21:48 AM
3:05:17 PM OS04_062-070
65
11 11:21:48 AM OS04_062-070_Picasso.indd 6567

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 5/22/11
5/30/11 11:21:51 AM
3:05:17 PM
PICASSO
GUERNICA, PAINTED IN 1937

an exaggeration to say that Picasso was important to him. “He sees
bankrolled the post-war PCF, and fundamentally in black and white,”
underwrote various causes associated The suspicion remains noted the photographer Alexander
with it. In 1949, for example, the that his politics were Liberman. “He is not a colourist in the
Communist newspaper L’Humanité gesture politics and that conventional sense but has the extra
acknowledged his donation of one they were not to be vision of the sculptor-draughtsman.
million francs for striking miners in taken seriously His great periods are essentially
the Pas de Calais. One might say that monochromatic – the blue, the rose, the
he lent himself and gave his money. grey-brown of analytical Cubism.”
The Party basked in the reflected His famous portrait of Gertrude
glory and pocketed the cash. His value The suspicion remains that in Stein is a study in brown. According
as a figurehead was priceless, but his the end his politics were gesture to Stein, it took some 80 or 90 sittings,
greatest contribution was financial. politics, and not to be taken seriously; an implausible number for most
And yet, a note of caution is that joining the Party smacked of a painters and an incredible one for the
in order. The donation to the publicity stunt; that Communism quick-draw Picasso.
striking miners was matched by a itself was more or less meaningless to In tackling the portrait, Picasso had
donation to Fernande Olivier, his this heedless party member; that his the greatest difficulty with the head.
former mistress, in return for an saluting of Stalin was at best deluded; After reworking it several times from
undertaking that she would publish that this was at bottom a mercenary different angles, one day he painted it
no more kiss and tell memoirs in his affair, whereby the world-renowned out completely – “I can’t see you any
lifetime. Fernande was destitute. She painter was exploited by the Party for longer when I look” – and abandoned
was bought off. his famous name, his fleet brush, and the picture.
Picasso’s principles were not much his financial donations – in short, that He completed it, without any
troubled. And one million francs when it came to politics, Picasso was a further sittings, only after an interval
more or less was not about to break useful idiot. of several months and a respite in
the bank. Picasso was fabulously When it came to his art, however, the Pyrenees. It was not considered
rich, and the means of production he was extremely serious. For all a good likeness. The artist was
were safe in his hands. his prodigality, economy of means unmoved. “Everybody thinks she is
66
5/30/11 11:21:56 AM
3:05:25 PM
”
y
the
ra
n.
, the
AD
.”
e
ng
ngs,
the
had
ad.
om
d it
ny
ed
rval
11 11:21:56 AM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 69 5/30/11 3:05:48 PM

apix.p
PICASS0
not at all like her portrait,” he said, mutter, “comprends pas, comprends
“but never mind, in the end she will pas.” This call and response had a
manage to look just like it.” In the end, history. In the Cubist period, Braque
Gertrude Stein proved him right. and Picasso were as close as two
Picasso’s borrowing has been artists could hope to be – roped
well-described as pushing on beyond together, in Braque’s celebrated
the point at which some other man metaphor, like two mountaineers.
stopped. He could make a copy, if so Until very recently, the history of
inclined; a forgery, even. Picasso was that ascent has given precedence to
the greatest art forger in history, but Picasso. Precedence was important
he soon tired of those tricks. to him; and he made a lot of noise.
He wanted to make his mark on Under his breath, however, he let slip
the world. Taking possession meant a different story.
taking liberties. Imitation meant There were always things that
deformation. Given his rapacious Braque could do that Picasso could
ways and voracious gaze, it is best not, and he knew it. He was jealous
encapsulated as Picassification. of Braque – jealous of the man and C
Las Meninas, the classic work the work, the marches he had stolen
M
by Diego Velázquez,demanded and their claim on posterity: Fruit

to be Picassified for a number Dish And Glass, for example, the first
Y
of reasons. The image itself is a papier collé or pasted paper, complete CM
startling mixture of illusionism and with mock wood wallpaper purchased MY
realism. The relationship it proposes in a shop in Avignon while Picasso CY
between actor, painter and spectator was away in Paris. (“The bastard. He CMY
is a puzzle. “Look at it,” Picasso waited until my back was turned.”)

K
commanded, “and try to find where Late in life, history was repeating
each of these is actually situated.” itself. Braque’s mysterious Studios,
Beyond that, it took him back to the refuge of all things and all
Spain, his original stamping ground, notions, challenged Picasso to raise
and to the greatest master that his game creatively. He responded
country had ever produced. All of this with the first and best of the
had to be reckoned with. variations on Las Meninas,
There was another issue, equally With Picasso, it was never one
disconcerting. By hallowed thing or the other. His meaning, like
convention, Las Meninas is the classic his motivation, was plural. His best
studio painting. And yet, by 1957 a remarks were well-rehearsed. “On 2
new series of studio paintings had August, 1914 I took Braque and Derain
emerged, unheralded, as if to extend to the station at Avignon. I never saw
the tradition. They were passing them again.”
strange, but Picasso was intimately On canvas and in conversation, it
familiar with the signature: Braque. is unwise to take him too literally. He
The collector Douglas Cooper could never remember whether he
bought one of these Braques and had said “I don’t look, I find” or “I don’t
hung it in pride of place over the bed. find, I look” – “not that it makes much
Whenever Picasso came to visit, he difference”. His vision was vagrant.
would seek it out and scrutinise it and What he saw was polymorphous and PICASSO PHOTOGRAPHED IN 1948
68
5/30/11 11:22:12 AM
3:05:51 PM
apix.pdf 5/22/11 9:19:33 AM
AD
CM
MY
CY
CMY

PICASS0
unstable. “A green parrot is also a

green salad and a green parrot. He
who makes it only a parrot diminishes
its reality. A painter who copies a tree
blinds himself to the real tree. I see
things otherwise. A palm tree can
become a horse. Don Quixote can
come into Las Meninas.”
For all the jealousy and the raillery,
the relationship with Braque endured
to the end. When Braque died, in 1963,
the most moving farewell came from
one who famously shunned the dead
and the dying. In his “Homage to
Georges Braque”, Picasso addressed
him directly, beyond the grave.
No one lived more in the present
than Picasso. But the present was PICASSO LOOKS AT A PICTURE OF STALIN IN ROME IN 1949
crowded with the ghosts of the past.

Picasso was a man haunted by a (1945). Picasso himself testified is the offensive and defensive weapon
multitude of memories. that the work was affected by the deployed: indictment, tribute to
One day he showed Françoise Gilot revelations of the real-life charnel sacrifice, howl of despair, and proof
an etching: “You see this truculent houses of the Holocaust, and in this positive of art after Auschwitz.
character here, with the curly instance there is no reason to doubt Pablo Picasso lived and died a
hair and the moustache? That’s him. The pages of the newspaper phenomenon. “What is a painter?”
Rembrandt. Or maybe it’s Balzac; I’m L’Humanité were full of graphic he asked, in his inimitable fashion.
not sure. It’s a compromise, I suppose. accounts of the camps, complete with “He is a collector who puts together a
It doesn’t really matter. They’re only grim illustrations. collection by painting the pictures he
two of the people who haunt me. An article on the crematoria at one likes best.”
Every human being is a whole colony, of them included the macabre detail That collection, perhaps the most
you know.” that the executioners had tied the prodigious, certainly the most
Despite his mischief, Picasso hands and feet of their victims, like promiscuous in the history of art,
was a deadly serious artist. Goaded the central motif of the painting, and was assembled by an artist-creator of
by an interviewer in 1945 on the the heaped corpses in the death zone extraordinary virtuosity: a painter-
relationship between art and politics, that constitutes the lower part of the sculptor-photographer without peer.
he interrupted the interview to canvas are reminiscent of the first “Picasso doesn’t stint himself,” said
scribble a written declaration, so that shock photos of the camps – and of Braque. “He speaks every language.
he would not be misunderstood. The Goya’s Disasters Of War – images at What talent! What vice!” As his rivals
declaration was pure Picasso. once unprintable and unforgettable. immediately recognised, “Picasso is
“Painting is not made to decorate The upper zone is less horrific, the issue, Picasso is the one to beat.”
apartments”, he concluded. “It is though no less eerie. Elements of Picasso lives, although his legacy is
an offensive and defensive weapon a contemporaneous still life can not quite what it seems.
against the enemy.” be made out: Pitcher, Candle And
At the time he was working on the Casserole (“you see, a casserole too
most powerful political painting can scream”), the candle, symbol of Alex Danchev’s latest book is 100 Artists’
he ever made – The Charnel House hope, obliterated. The Charnel House Manifestos (Penguin Modern Classics).
70
5/30/11 11:22:28 AM
3:05:53 PM
pon
of
”
n.
AD
er a
s he
st
,
r of
r-
er.
d
e.
vals
is
.”
s

D
B
Eclectic Exhibitions Video Production
G
I
DIY Painting Regional Artists
72
OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:05:54
3:58:52 PM OS04_072-080
DU�
BAI’S
SECR�
ET
GALLER�
9/11 3:58:52 PM
IES
OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd 7375 5/30/11
73
5/19/11 3:05:54
3:58:52 PM
SECRET GALLERIES
D
riving through from collectors based as far afield as The difference between Al Quoz and cent
the Al Quoz, it is Belgium and Canada. While the UAE other neighbourhoods in the emirate, city
hard to imagine this – and the Gulf – makes the headlines however, is that while areas such as Clau
dust-swept district for its big name tie-ups (everyone Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah she
of warehouses, from the Guggenheim to the Louvre were planned megaprojects, Al Quoz trio
cement factories and labour seems to be making its way to Abu evolved organically. on a
accommodation to be anything Dhabi), it is here, in this industrial Antonia Carver, former editor of Quo
other than a stereotypically soulless sprawl, that Dubai first started Bidoun magazine and current director “W
industrial area. When the wind picks gaining attention for its art scene. of Art Dubai, believes the scene in open
up, sand swirls across the streets and Located just off Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai developed slowly. “There were cent
visibility is reduced to a few metres; this low-rise neighbourhood is often film competitions, art events and says
the unfinished, pot-holed roads shake regarded as a blot on the blueprint of groups of artists, such as the Group of ask
with passing trucks. a blossoming tourist destination. It 5, who have been working in the UAE it wa
Even on clear days, it is hard to be is, after all, sandwiched between two since the 1970s. In the early 2000s. a any
enthusiastic about this vast vicinity of Dubai’s most recognisable – and group of UAE-based young people, wall
of apparent nothingness. And yet, visible — landmarks: the Mall Of The mainly long-term residents who’d rent
listen to anybody involved with Emirates and Burj Khalifa. However, grown up here, began to transform to m
culture in the Emirates and they will with the right directions and a little their city by organising cultural Th
tell you Al Quoz’s numbered streets perseverance, a journey through events with both local and other Arab stor
are not the only similarity it shares Al Quoz’s labyrinthine of streets and Iranian artists.” cont
with New York’s Greenwich Village. can yield a bohemian underground One of these returnees was Sunny East
The district is thriving, they say; unseen, and unspoilt, by the city’s Rahbar, an Iranian artist who grew unfa
offering up an grass roots arts scene burgeoning population. up in the UAE but attended design Sha
to rival anywhere in the Middle East, Much like the majority of Dubai, school in New York. She returned Hay
which attracts discreet drop-ins the city’s art scene is relatively new. to the Emirates at the turn of the on th
74
OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:05:56
3:59:05 PM OS04_072-080
WAREHOUSES LINE THE STREETS OF AL QUOZ
and century intent on illuminating the to exhibitions with titles such as, describes it as his gallery’s “reaction
ate, city’s art scene. In 2005, alongside Kaleidoscope and Pins And Needles. to the excess of advertising that
as Claudia Cellini and Omar Ghobash, Now, six years on since the is going on, not only in Dubai, but
h she co-founded The Third Line: the gallery’s opening, the arts scene has everywhere: the big billboards and
uoz trio settling, after much deliberation, expanded exponentially and the the bright lights.”
on a large, empty warehouse in Al “dirty industrial district” that Rahbar Instead, positioned on the
Quoz. And so it began. moved into has grown into a cultural periphery of Al Quoz and flanked
ctor “When we first thought about hub. “The history of the area is short, by a non-descript hangar and a
n opening the gallery, there was no but it first started when The Third factory providing ‘integrated plastics
ere central area for the arts in Dubai,” Line moved in,” says Rami Farook, packaging’, Traffic can be identified
d says Rahbar. “We knew people would the Emirati founder and director of by an external exhibition that
p of ask questions about Al Quoz, but Traffic, a capacious warehouse-cum- involves a hulking, bulking heap of
AE it was out of a necessity more than gallery that relocated to the area in yellow hard hats assorted together
s. a anything else. We needed the largest November of last year. “ into a chaotic tower.
e, wall spaces for the least amount of Al Quoz has really exploded in “We like to be low-key and gentle,
d rent and, as we looked, it just seemed recent times thanks to the low rents, to communicate in a wise and civil,
m to make sense.” high ceilings and bigger spaces. Now yet radical, manner,” explains Farook,
The Third Line, a whitewashed two- there are about 20 galleries and there surrounded in his gallery by books by
rab storied gallery, focuses on showcasing are more set to open in the months Warhol, Liechtenstein and Saatchi.
contemporary art from the Middle ahead. It just keeps growing.” Traffic’s towering hard-hat
ny East to the world. Artists with Traffic, like the majority of the display renders the need for a
ew unfamiliar names, such as Monir recent artistic additions that are signpost irrelevant, but other
n Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian and spread across the district’s few projects, including The Shelter and
Hayv Kahraman, display their work square-kilometres, carries only a The JamJar, are attracting many of
on the gallery’s walls, treating visitors small sign and minimal fuss. Farook their visitors courtesy of ArtMap, a
75

OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd 7577 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:05:57
3:59:15 PM
SECRET GALLERIES
guidebook to the UAE scene that in appeared as bleak as the nameless and, complemented by government
four years has evolved from a single streets Ms Hilton navigated prior to initiatives such as Art Dubai and the
foldout sheet to an 84-page magazine her putting pen to paint. Sharjah Biennial, the landscape of
published every four months. In 2007, as Dubai’s real estate Al Quoz once again looks viable and
“As Al Quoz evolved and more economy surged skywards and vibrant, figuratively speaking at least.
galleries started opening, it was foreign investors arrived with As Carver says, Dubai is doing for
becoming a bit of a nightmare to chequebooks in hand, Al Quoz too art what it has done for other areas
find them all,” explains Ije Israel, a experienced an influx of interested of the economy for centuries. “It is
Nigerian who doubles up her role as parties. Almost overnight, the old acting as a meeting and trading point
advertising co-ordinator of ArtMap empty warehouses disappeared and for South Asia, Iran, the Arab world
with that of studio co-ordinator at in their place stood new galleries, new and the east coast of Africa. If you
The JamJar. “That was basically why studios, new exhibition halls. The look at the Gulf region as a whole,
he first produced the magazine, and organic feel of the area was fading. Dubai plays a vital role.
the reception it received was great.” Then came the rumours. Culture “It is a refuge for artists, the base of
With detailed maps of specific Village, a new luxury development to the commercial arts scene, home to
areas, as well as a directory of every be constructed next to Dubai Creek, more galleries than anywhere else in
gallery and studio and exhibition was to focus on the arts and would the region and it is the meeting point”.
centre in the country, ArtMap has force galleries to relocate. Al Quoz It is a case then of art imitating life.
made the city’s culture scene more was going to degenerate back into a What Dubai does well in trade
accessible than ever before. and industry, it does well in art. It
The last edition listed Al Quoz as just happens to be that the centre
home to 21 galleries, with two more Al Quoz has become our of this is not Dubai Creek’s wharfs
scheduled to open later this year. own version of Soho or or the financial centre, but a grimy
Music venues, incubator spaces the East End. It is industrial district.
and coffee shops have also started becoming a destination Yet while the paper factories and
sprouting up. in its own right electrical workshops that dot the
“Al Quoz has become our own sidewalk-free streets mean the area is
version of London’s Soho or East End,” sustainable, until the infrastructure
says Rahbar. “They have both become improves, Al Quoz can only dream of
independent destinations in their own state of dereliction; either that or be becoming Dubai’s answer to Hoxton
right over the years; and that is what razed in order to build new housing. or Le Marais, says Farook.
is happening here now.” Owners waited anxiously for “We are not exactly in London
If visual proof was ever needed, confirmation, but it never appeared. or Paris, and it is not a pedestrian-
Capital D Studio can provide Instead, something similarly friendly city. If it was in London, you
it. Hidden up an alley, off an fearsome showed up. “The recession would walk around — here you can’t
unmarked roundabout that sits at didn’t stop us, but it definitely affected do that,” he concedes.
the end of an otherwise disused business,” says Rahbar. “But Al Quoz is not that big so, if
cul-de-sac, the reception is clean “In some ways it was beneficial we had more galleries and a path or
and cosy. But it hasn’t stopped because it weeded out all the people cycle track, it could improve.” For
somebody scribbling their name who jumped on the bandwagon and now, anybody seeking Dubai’s arts
on a white lacquered table. “Paris opened up during the explosion scene will need to make do with a
Hilton xoxo” reads the signature; simply because they heard of art car, a map (see page 88) and a little
the socialite having popped in while selling for millions. They disappeared bit of perseverance.
visiting Dubai two years ago. as quickly as they had shown up.”
Yet there was a period when What has survived is a pool of
the future of the area’s arts scene galleries that are thinking long-term Scott Gybson is British author and journalist
76
OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd7678 5/19/11 3:05:58
5/30/11 3:59:15 PM OS04_072-080
nt
he
nd
east.
or
s
oint
d
e of
o
e in
nt”.
e.
e
s
y
ea is
re
m of
on
-
ou
n’t
if
or
ts
le
INDUSTRY AND CREATIVITY COLLIDE IN THE AREA

list
77
9/11 3:59:15 PM OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd 7779

5/30/11 3:59:40 PM
SECRET GALLERIES
ONE THREE
TRAFFIC CAPITAL D
STUDIO
TWO FOUR
THE JAM- THE THIRD
JAR LINE
Thi
TRAFFIC ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÍÆÈÆÏ«XXXWJBUSBGöDPSH CAPITAL D STUDIO ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÇËÉÉÏ«XXXDBQJUBMETUVEJPDPN
EXPECT SEE WHERE EXPECT SEE WHERE

A vast warehouse The owner’s personal Located on Umm A video and Paris Hilton once paid Located at the end
offering eclectic collection includes Suqeim Road, look photography a visit, while Dubai’s of a desolate cul-de-
Sav
exhibitions and works by Andy Warhol out for a tower of production studio beautiful people can sac, reasonably close Boo
contemporary and Damien Hirst. yellow hard hats that incorporates be seen arriving for to The JamJar. Best
everything from shoots by top local ask in another gallery
Holi
artworks, as well as Also some great, and some thought-
art books. quirky gift ideas. provoking graffiti. casting to ads. photographers. for directions. you
THE JAMJAR ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÇÍÉÆÉ«XXXUIFKBNKBSEVCBJDPN THE THIRD LINE ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÇÇÉÌÍ«XXXUIFUIJSEMJOFDPN Win

EXPECT SEE WHERE EXPECT SEE WHERE Book
A range of art forms Yourself. The studio Located behind Monthly exhibitions Artists from the UAE, Located behind Times Visit
from international prides itself on making Dubai Garden Centre, that focus on Iran, Libya and almost Square Shopping Mall
artists and art accessible to all between Habitat contemporary art every other country in and next door to The
exhibitionists: visual and offers the UAE’s and Chevrolet from the around the Middle East. The Courtyard. About a
art, film, music, theatre first (very popular) warehouses. Next to Middle East. A must exhibits are almost five-minute walk from
1
Offer v
and pop culture. public painting studio. Insportz Club. see for art lovers. always revealing. Times Square. in any
Visit w
2
Visit w
78
OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:06:01
4:00:10 PM ,+*6FD
AD
This summer, do big business - even on holiday
DPN
30%
Participating Hotels:
d
e-
Save when you book early1. Finland:
Crowne Plaza Helsinki
se Book any Danish or Finnish Crowne Plaza or Holiday Inn Helsinki City Centre
t Holiday Inn Helsinki West-Ruoholahti
ery
Holiday Inn hotel for your holiday and enjoy everything Holiday Inn Helsinki-Messukeskus
you’re used to on business, but on holiday. Perfect. Holiday Inn Helsinki-Vantaa Airport
Holiday Inn Oulu
Holiday Inn Tampere
N Win a Leica D-Lux 5 camera worth €700. Holiday Inn Turku
Book your summer holidays and take part in our Leica competition2. Denmark:
mes Visit www.ihg.com/bigbusiness. Crowne Plaza Copenhagen Towers
Mall
he
om
1
Offer valid for bookings from 1 May 2011 to 10 August 2011 for stays from 1 July 2011 to 31 August 2011,
in any Crowne Plaza or Holiday Inn hotel in Denmark or Finland.
Visit www.ihg.com/bigbusiness for full terms and conditions on the promotion .
2
Visit www.ihg.com/bigbusiness for full terms and conditions on the competition.
9/11 4:00:10 PM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 81

,+*6FDQB[LQGG 5/30/11 3:06:02 PM

AD

SECRET GALLERIES
81
OS04_072-080_AlQuoz.indd 8183 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:06:09
4:00:14 PM
GUNS, GANGS AND GETAWAYS — ULRICH BOSER ON THE
WORLD’S GREATEST UNSOLVED ART HEIST
82
OS04_082-090_ArtHeist.indd 5/30/11 11:55:23
5/22/11 3:06:10 PM
AM OS04_082-090
83
OS04_082-090_ArtHeist.indd 8385 5/30/11 11:55:32
5/22/11 3:06:10 PM
AM
THE ART HEIST
I
t’s the early morning world’s most esteemed institutions two women. Are they just playing Pica
hours of March 18, 1990. could do more to deter greedy thieves. music together? Is there something tech
Dampness hangs in the The problem is a nationwide one. A sexual? The painting gives no over
air. A light rain fell earlier few years ago an investigation found definitive answer; there is no clear hou
in the day. Most of the city that the Smithsonian Institution in solution. For experts, that’s why the W
of Boston is out celebrating Saint Washington DC did not even have painting is so powerful. Art historians crim
Patrick’s Day with drunken cheer. enough guards to respond to alarms. have long hailed Vermeer as “the and
Shortly after midnight, two crooks Over the past few years, however, it Sphinx of Delft.” hold
dressed as police officers approach appears that the Gardner case might But what surprised me the most loca
the side entrance of the Isabella finally be breaking open, and new was the size of the art underworld. even
Stewart Gardner Museum. The evidence about the theft has made Over the past few decades, the theft mus
institution is one of New England’s headlines across the United States. Or of arts and antiquities has become serv
most romantic locations, a building as Anthony Amore — the museum’s one of the world’s most lucrative mus
overflowing with masterpieces by current director of security and lead illegal activities, an estimated $6 its ti
Botticelli, Velazquez and Reubens. investigator of the theft — says: “I billion black market. Organised who
The thieves tell the night guards that have no doubt that the art will again crime is increasingly getting adm
they are investigating a disturbance. be displayed.” involved in the trafficking of stolen on th
They are buzzed inside. I first got involved in the Gardner art. So are terrorist groups. Two train
“This is a robbery,” one of the case in late 2004, after writing a years before flying a plane into ‘gua
thieves says to the guards. “Don’t magazine article about art detective the World Trade Center on 9/11, N
give us any problems, and you won’t Harold Smith. One of the world’s most Mohamed Atta tried to hawk some have
get hurt.” famous stolen art detectives, Smith looted artefacts apparently to help expe
“Don’t worry,” one of the guards had recovered lost Renoirs; he had pay for his flying lessons. slipp
mutters, “they don’t pay me enough exposed forged Da Vincis; he had Mus
to get hurt.” even cracked the country’s largest som
The thieves tie up the guards and gold robbery. Smith had also worked to na
loot the galleries for more than an the Gardner heist for years, all while Some thieves are wor
hour, stealing a dozen artworks skin cancer ravaged his body. When obsessed with art. Some whi
including one Vermeer, three I met him, he wore an eye patch want to impress. Most of th
Rembrandts, and five Degas. The theft and a prosthetic nose. Weeks after want to make money to ch
is the largest art heist in history. It our meeting, Smith passed away. I disc
is the biggest burglary in American decided to pick up where he left off a cle
memory. Today, some experts and search for the lost art. M
estimate that the stolen paintings are I soon realised that mystery is at the The motivations of art crooks are suff
worth as much as $500 million. heart of the Gardner caper; mystery is not always clear. Some steal because Beca
But it has been more than two what attracts people to the paintings they’re obsessed with art. Others steal to ex
decades since the heist occurred, themselves. Consider Vermeer’s to impress their criminal friends. Most mak
and despite dozens of investigators, The Concert, one of the paintings often, though, crooks steal for the and
thousands of leads, and a $5 million stolen by the thieves. Born in Delft, money, and even in today’s sluggish an in
reward, not a single artwork has Holland, only 36 works of Vermeer’s economy, the art market continues envi
been recovered, not a single person paintings remain, and at first glance, to skyrocket. A Picasso canvas sold Afte
arrested. The case has become one of his subtle canvas features a man and for more than $100 million in early mas
America’s most enduring mysteries two women playing music together. 2010, the world record for any work Nor
— and the museum serves as a sort of But look at the painting again, really of art ever sold at auction. To put that Mus
reminder of the unsolved challenges study it, and you can’t tell what the sum into context, for that very same an a
of art theft, that even some of the relationship is between the man and amount of money, the buyer of the dete
84
OS04_082-090_ArtHeist.indd 5/30/11 11:55:32
5/22/11 3:06:11 PM
AM OS04_082-090
Picasso could have landed a mid-sized
g tech firm and had enough money left
over to buy a five-bedroom beach
r house in the south of France.
e While soaring prices attract greedy
ians criminals, security remains an issue,
and thieves will often find it easier to
hold up an art institution than their
t local hair salon. With limited budgets
d. even in the best of economic times,
eft museums often skimp on protection
e services. And while the Gardner
museum’s security was average for
its time and place, one of the guards
who worked at the institution later THE GARDNER ART
MUSEUM, TWO OF
admitted to smoking marijuana THE MISSING WORKS
en on the job. He also lacked adequate AND THE LEGENDARY
ART DETECTIVE
training and misspelled the word HAROLD SMITH
‘guard’ on his application.

Not enough museums, though,
e have learned from the Gardner’s
p experience, and in 2006, a man
slipped into the Kunsthistorisches
Museum in Vienna by clambering up
some scaffolding. The thief managed
to nab a rare Cellini masterpiece
worth more than $5 million, and
me while a motion detector went off, none
st of the three security guards bothered
y to check the room. The heist was
discovered the following morning by thugs, ageing purse snatchers
a cleaning lady. and out-of-work drug dealers. Art
Museums like the Gardner also press dubbed the building ‘Fortress detective Harold Smith once tracked
e suffer from a security Catch-22. Munch,’ while art-lovers grumbled, down a gang that hijacked copper
se Because if institutions make it easy saying that they couldn’t appreciate sculptures from college campuses in
eal to experience great art, they also the masterpieces because of the thick, order to sell as scrap metal.
Most make it easy for crooks to steal it, protective glass. Nor will the crooks ever be able to
and when institutions don’t provide For their part, though, collectors hawk the stolen Gardner artworks
h an intimate, nose-to-the-canvas often think too much of thieves. on the open market; no one really
environment, visitors complain. And while Hollywood films often knows their underworld value.
After crooks pilfered Edvard Munch’s depict art crooks as glamorous Pierce When thieves steal a minor item — a
masterwork The Scream from a Brosnans and Cary Grants, they’re small, terracotta statue or an Audrey
Norwegian museum, Oslo’s Munch usually a far less artful crowd. Beardsley sketch — it can easily be
at Museum turned their institution into Museum crooks don’t rappel through slipped back into the legitimate trade.
e an art-world Fort Knox, with metal skylights; they don’t wear turtlenecks. But when crooks swipe a world-
detectors and an X-ray machine. The Rather, they are usually low-level famous Vermeer, they typically
85
OS04_082-090_ArtHeist.indd 8587 5/30/11 11:55:44
5/22/11 3:06:12 PM
AM
Insure your car
and protect your family
all at once
AD
find
mig
the t
at an
even
mar
too r
Ex
stole
the m
few
galle
a do
and
exec
polic
Introducing 24/7 Auto-Life stas
the c
(+50*»ZÄYZ[H\[VPUZ\YHUJLWSHU^P[OHOHZZSLMYLLSPMLPUZ\YHUJL\WNYHKL
they
Find out how 24/7 Auto-Life can bring you complete and unconditional peace of mind at an incredible bargain by calling toll free 800 8040
or visiting www.adnic.ae secu
Middle East Insurance Company of the Year 2009 & 2010 | Rated Strong A- by Standard & Poor’s | Rated A Excellent by A.M. Best | 2011 MEIF Insurance Company of the Year

THE ART HEIST
THE EMPTY FRAME STILL HANGS IN THE GARDNER ART MUSEUM TODAY
find themselves in a bind. While it for the prints. The artworks had been the works are “found” by police.
might have been an effortless heist, stuffed into a cardboard tube. Police What’s clear, though, is that there’s
the thieves can’t unload the artwork now believe that the thieves simply one place that the stolen Van Goghs
at an auction or sell it to a fence or ditched the items. and Matisses don’t go, and that’s to
even ease it into the blackest of black There are markets for stolen a shadowy, art-hungry billionaire.
markets. The work is too well known, masterpieces, to be sure. Thieves It’s a familiar trope. Somewhere in
too recognisable. might use a looted painting as the Caribbean, in the basement of
Experts call it the curse of the collateral for a bank loan or a a columned mansion, a tuxedoed
stolen masterpiece, and it can stymie financial deposit and make some a gentleman pulls back a set of velvet
the most experienced criminals. A small sum of money from the theft. curtains and admires a stolen Monet.
few years ago, a gang broke into a Professional art crooks might wait a He ordered a cat burglar to swipe the
gallery in England and pocketed half few years and then attempt to ransom painting for him, and now, holding
a dozen prints by Van Gogh, Picasso, the looted painting back to the owner. a snifter of brandy, staring at his
and Gauguin. The robbery was deftly Museums will pay for a particularly illegal masterpiece, he says softly:
executed. But some days later, the valuable stolen work, usually about 10 “All mine. It’s all mine.”
police landed a tip that the art was per cent of its value. A middleman — a But it’s a Hollywood myth, say
stashed behind a public toilet. While defense lawyer or underworld front police. And while art lovers will
the criminals left a note claiming that man — will typically arrange the deal, occasionally purchase items with
they wanted to “highlight a breach in delivering the paintings to an empty dubious origins, law enforcement
00 8040
security,” they appeared to care little hotel room or airport lounge where has never found any evidence of a
he Year
87
OS04_082-090_ArtHeist.indd 8789
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 5/22/11
5/30/11 11:55:53 AM
3:06:20 PM
THE ART HEIST
dedicated collector, a so-called Mr. a retired National Guard military the person who took control of the
Big or Dr No. Indeed, the thieves who policeman, came forward, saying paintings died, or was killed.
robbed the Gardner museum knew so that he recalled seeing one of the lost The situation is complicated
little about art that they sliced two of Gardner paintings in the apartment by the fact that Turner appears
the Rembrandts out of their frames, of his brother George. “When I see to have murdered many of those
potentially destroying them forever. [the canvas] I have the same reaction who participated in the robbery. A
I ended up working the Gardner every time. ‘I’ve seen it. I’ve seen the government informant once claimed
case for years. I evaluated countless painting,’” Reissfelder told the Boston that Lenny DiMuzio was involved
leads. I spoke to countless people. Herald newspaper. in the heist. He was shot to death
I hired private investigators to George Reissfelder had run with — his body found under a bridge in
help me shadow suspects. I visited Turner’s underworld crew. He also East Boston — and law enforcement
maximum-security prisons to talk looks remarkably similar to one of the believes Turner was the triggerman.
with jailed mobsters. sketches of the robbers made after the FBI files also indicate that Charlie
I eventually helped to uncover heist, and a confidential informant Pappas may have been one of the
new evidence that implicates Boston once told the FBI that George thieves. He turned state’s evidence
gangster David Turner. Hailed by Reissfelder was one of the thieves who against Turner, and he was shot a few
local newspapers as “the Teflon robbed the Gardner. days before he was supposed to testify
gangster of the South Shore,” Turner The museum’s director of security, against Turner. Again police believe
might be one of the most infamous Anthony Amore, helped to develop that Turner was behind that murder.
criminals ever to have come out of the Reissfelder lead by reaching out The evidence suggesting the
Boston. Detectives believe that he to the family. “I don’t know if Richard involvement of Turner and his crew
helped run a million dollar cocaine Reissfelder saw our Manet, but I do doesn’t close the case. Not at all. And
ring. Investigators believe that he believe that he believed he saw our really what matters is the return of
was behind a half-dozen murders, Manet,” Amore told me. the paintings, and investigators —
and investigators believe that he But George Reissfelder died of from the museum’s Amore to federal
robbed Boston’s Bull and Finch pub, a drug overdose a year after the law enforcement — continue to hunt
which was the inspiration for the theft, and it seems clear that Turner for them. Indeed, there remains a $5
American TV show Cheers. doesn’t have access to the lost art. million reward for the missing art.
I discovered files from the FBI, that
describe how Turner’s crime boss,
Carmello Merlino, twice tried to
return the paintings in exchange for a There remains a $5 million reward for the missing
reduced prison sentence in a different art, the largest ever offered by a private institution
crime. I also spoke to the last witness
to see the thieves before they entered
the museum. He described one of the
thieves as having “Asian eyes,” and
Turner fits that description. He is in prison until 2032 for armed The museum’s reward is the largest
When I confronted Turner with the robbery, and he has never been ever offered by a private institution
evidence, he denied having any role in charged with the museum theft. and is exceeded only by the $25
the theft, but then he began to sort of But if I were to speculate — and this million that was on offer for Osama
brag. He told me that I should put his is definitely raw speculation — it bin Laden.
face on the cover of my book. would appear that the thieves most And for many, it’s the reward that
The evidence against Turner and likely stashed the paintings in a safe holds the most promise for the return
his underworld crew has continued to house somewhere outside of Boston of the Gardner’s art. “There’s very
mount. In 2009, Richard Reissfelder, in an attic or behind a well, and little that happens in this world that
88
OS04_082-090_ArtHeist.indd 5/30/11 11:55:54
5/22/11 3:06:26 PM
AM
e
med
nt
n.
ie
e
few
stify
ve
er.
AD
ew
And
of
eral
nt
$5
t.
ng
on
st
on
ma
at
urn
at

THE ART HEIST
some other party doesn’t know about,” Sea Of Galilee. The painting is the
Smith told me, “and I know everyone only seascape ever created by the
likes money.” Dutch master. It presents a dramatic
To be sure, when thieves steal interpretation of a famous biblical
paintings, they rarely come back. tale — Jesus and his apostles fighting
Some estimates of recovery rates a savage thunderstorm, their small,
are as low as five per cent. But the unsteady boat summiting a massive
rates for well-known paintings like breaker. An early Rembrandt, the
the masterpieces nabbed from the work shows all of the artist’s unbound
Gardner tend to be higher because audacity, and he slipped a small
the works are nearly impossible to self-portrait into the canvas, painting
sell on the open market. Plus, it often himself as one of the disciples,
takes years, decades, even centuries, looking straight out at the viewer.
for top-flight works to be returned. In ‘Look at me’, he seems to say, ‘Can
POLICE SKETCH OF DAVID TURNER
the 1860s, Union Army soldiers stole you see what I can do?’ When Isabella
North Carolina’s Bill of Rights out Stewart Gardner first received the
of the State Capitol, and the artefact painting, she wrote a letter to her
remained missing for 140 years. Then, databases to ensure that they do not famed art dealer, Bernard Berenson,
in 2003, two antiques dealers tried to sell looted artefacts.) saying: “I am now as a tramp who has
peddle the work for $4 million — and This makes the continued efforts the Sun all to himself.”
the FBI picked it up in a sting. by both the Gardner and law As for the Gardner museum,
To battle the illicit art trade, the enforcement to return the missing security is much improved. The
FBI created a national art theft paintings all the more impressive. museum has also broken ground
team a few years ago. The squad In 2010, the FBI posted billboards of on an expansion that should be
depends on a network of art world images of Rembrandt’s The Storm On completed in late 2011.
insiders, and when a curator at the The Sea Of Galilee along highways But much stays the same, and
Army Center of Military History in outside of Boston along with a toll- Gardner stipulated in her will that
Washington DC recently reached free number soliciting leads, and nothing in the museum’s galleries
out with information that a Kansas when the new head of the Boston FBI should be changed; today the empty
dealer was hawking a very rare Civil office, Richard DesLauriers, recently frames still hang on the walls from
War flag, the FBI team immediately announced his top investigative the night of the robbery.
set up a sting. The dealer wanted a priorities, he listed the return of the While the frames look sad, lifeless
paltry $20,000 — and the agents Gardner paintings among them. and tragic, art lovers everywhere
were able to recover the work. Whatever happens, the Gardner remain optimistic that the museum’s
Still, law enforcement could do caper will not soon be forgotten. lost Vermeer and Rembrandts will
more to recover fine art. While art There are the lost paintings, for one, soon be returned.
theft has become big business for exquisite works of art whose loss “I live in hope. I dwell in possibility,
criminals, it is still not a top priority continues to be mourned. Or as art as Emily Dickinson says,” Anne
for many local police agencies, and detective Smith told me: “When Hawley, the museum’s director, told
the lack of investigative interest art is stolen, there are hundreds me. “I just have to believe that the
makes for unexpected recoveries. of thousands of people who are stolen paintings are still out there.”
Stolen paintings will be discovered deprived of seeing it. Art theft isn’t
behind a dishwasher as part of just a crime against the owner. It’s a
raid, or an oblivious crook will crime against the American people.” Ulrich Boser is the author of The
bring a looted canvas to Sotheby’s. Missing, among the works, is Gardner Heist: The True Story of the
(Most auction houses use stolen art Rembrandt’s The Storm On The World’s Largest Unsolved Art Theft.
90
OS04_082-090_ArtHeist.indd 5/30/11 11:55:57
5/22/11 3:06:29 PM
AM
7626 EIDC H-P_OpenSkies 5/19/11 8:44 AM Page 2
C M Y CM MY CY CMY K AB7@E=;7E:3>8B39736^RTȨ
tic
ng
ll,
ve
und
ing
n
ella
n,
has
t
AD
s
pty
m
ess
m’s
l
ity,
Composite

92
OS04_092-100_ArtFinance.indd 92
5/30/11 11:39:00 AM
3:06:36 PM OS04_092-100
THE
CULTURAL
EVOLUTION
THE PROFITS AND PITFALLS OF THE GLOBAL ART MARKET
BY DANIEL GRANT
93
11 11:39:00 AM OS04_092-100_ArtFinance.indd 95
5/30/11 11:39:01 AM
3:06:36 PM
THE CULTURAL EVOLUTION
T
he Asian art and Aileen Agopian, director of
antiques sales at contemporary art sales at Phillips
Eldred’s Auction de Pury, noted that despite rules
Gallery in East Dennis, published in each sale catalogue that
Massachusetts have payment must occur within 30 days
gone well, with occasional exceptions. of the conclusion of an auction, she
One-third of the buyers are from has seen winning bidders from the
China and some of them had not read developing world “ask for payment
the contract when they registered to terms, stretching out over weeks or
bid, or perhaps they didn’t understand months at times.”
what they were read, but as soon as The auction house, which was
they win the objects they began to bought two years ago by the Moscow-
haggle with Eldred staff over the price based Mercury Group, doesn’t like
and the auction house commission. making exceptions, “and we certainly
“You never see that in the US,” said wouldn’t want to do it a lot,” but
Josh Eldred, president of the auction accommodating this crop of new
house. American and European buyers has forced it and others in the
buyers know the rules: You pay the art trade to become more “flexible”.
price you bid, plus the auctioneer’s One hears that word often these
stated premium. Foreign buyers need days. However, new wealth in China,
to have the process explained to them India, Latin America, the Middle East
gently, so that they follow through and Russia has brought about new
on their purchases. Push them too players in the art market now and new
hard, and they will just walk away, prospects for the market in the future.
without much recourse on the part of “We were affected like everyone else
the auctioneer. Everybody’s learning in 2008 by the recession,” said Adam
something, and for Eldred the lesson Sheffer, one of the owners of New
is that “there are cultural differences York’s Cheim & Read contemporary
in how you buy things.” art gallery, but a drop-off in sales
These differences are also part of from past buyers was more than
what is involved in developing a global offset by “an enormous surge of
art market, bringing new buyers from business in the Middle East. There
all over the world, whose wealth has has been an enormous increase.” He,
helped to buoy galleries and auction and others at the gallery, have met
houses in New York and Europe. Middle Easterners at various art
“We are adding new clients all the fairs around the world, and “we have months of waiting, we just put the lear
time from the emerging markets,” travelled to homes in the Middle East” work back on the market. You can’t in a
said Heather Barnhart, Christie’s US to meet individually with prospective hold a grudge or say ‘I’m never going here
regional director. Along with their collectors “who have an interest in the to deal with that person again.’ People mar
money occasionally comes some artists we represent.” in the Middle East like to complete In
parochial ideas of how transactions That’s the good news. However, he conversations and not leave things shou
take place, such as saying you will noted, “one out of every three ‘sales’ hanging for another time. They will and
buy something and then walking we make doesn’t take place,” because say, ‘Yes, I want to buy this painting,’ of p
away, or refusing to pay, or assuming a collector may agree to purchase even if they don’t intend to actually lasti
that an auction represents the a specific work but never send the buy it, because they think this is whic
beginning of a period of negotiation. money to pay for it. “After several the way to be polite. What we’ve purc
94
OS04_092-100_ArtFinance.indd 94 5/30/11 11:39:03
5/22/11 3:06:37 PM
AM OS04_092-100
ZHANG XIAOGANGS’ BIG FAMILY NUMBER 1
e learned is that you can’t do business often that the buyer needs to monetise inquiries from Russian collectors,
t in another culture the way you do it assets, which may include selling but they’re not very straightforward.
g here.” Certainly, he added, “in a down one or more works of art, in order to They say they’ll buy something and
ple market, you don’t turn down business.” produce the cash to pay for the piece. then not pay for it.”
In an ideal world, the payment Not every dealer and auction house Auction houses maintain black
should be straightforward. The dealer takes these cultural differences in lists of buyers who fail to pay, and
l and the buyer may negotiate a system their stride. David Nash, partner in they provide information on those
g,’ of payments over time, perhaps New York’s Mitchell-Innes & Nash, people to other auctioneers who make
y lasting as long as several months, after stated that the gallery’s buyers inquiries. Still, in a world where new
which the artwork is shipped to the are “100 per cent Americans and wealth sometimes creates instant
purchaser. The reason for the delay is Western Europeans. We have had art collectors, auction houses reliant
95
95 5/30/11 11:39:05
5/22/11 3:06:38 PM
AM
on G
ban
take
be th
the g
give
Eldr
com
than
Th
the w
glob
and
now
Bois
Con
has
York
is ca
majo
AD
and
“The
of C
thro
Th
fast
Lond
hou
Hon
of tr
Chin
cera
and
the h
achi
“B
inter
alth
that
art,”
Bon
Bo
galle
ther
the s
auct

on Google and recalcitrant foreign in a public sale in the West at some contemporary market are sound and
banks are forced to be flexible and to multiple of the original price. Quick prices will continue to advance.
take much on faith. That appears to resales were noted by a number of “The prices of Chinese contemporary
be the mantra of those operating in gallery owners and auctioneers. artists are between one-third and one-
the global art market. “You have to Ingrid Dudek, associate specialist in half the prices of their counterparts in
give people the benefit of the doubt,” Christie’s postwar and contemporary the West, and those differences will
Eldred said, although “I am more art department, stated that “flipping diminish,” he said. Prices are likely to
comfortable with domestic buyers happens quite a lot,” and Zhang triple or quadruple, he added, because
than with overseas buyers.” Xioaming noted that consignors to the number of Asian, and particularly
The global market for art is for Sotheby’s “are sophisticated enough Chinese, buyers will increase
the work of artists around the to hold onto work for a couple of years substantially, placing pressure on
globe. “Chinese art is very desirable and then place them at auction.” prices. “Dealers such as myself are
and, basically, the whole world is Michael Goedhuis, owner of finding it much more difficult to obtain
now catching up,” said Ludovic Goedhuis Contemporary, a Chinese the stock we can afford.” Additionally,
Bois, director of Beijing’s Chinese art dealership with galleries in New a “few top Western museums” — New
Contemporary gallery, which also York City and London, stated that he York’s Guggenheim and Museum of
has branches in London and New doesn’t “know the ultimate objectives” Modern Art, as well as London’s Tate
York. Certainly, the Asian world of his Asian buyers, who constitute Gallery — “have declared an interest
is catching up, because the vast a third of his sales, but he has found in collecting contemporary Chinese
majority of buyers at private galleries some of his Western collectors also art,” which will bring even more
and in public sales are Asian. flipping works at Chinese auctions. prominence to this realm.
“There’s never been such a wave
of Chinese and Asian money being
thrown at the art market,” he noted.
The lure of selling to the world’s Prices of Chinese contemporary art is likely to
fastest growing economy also brought triple in the next few years as the number of Asian
London-based Bonhams auction and particularly Chinese buyers increases
house to hold its first ever auction in
Hong Kong in 2009, where its sale
of traditional and contemporary
Chinese paintings, as well as Chinese “Auction prices in China tend to The “globalisation” of the art market
ceramics, jade carvings, lacquers be higher than in the West,” he said. has produced a large supply of new
and bronzes, brought over $5 million, Goedhuis expressed some concern work by artists in China, India, Africa,
the highest total Bonhams has ever about the connoisseurship of some South America and the Middle East. In
achieved for an inaugural sale. buyers, noting that some of the most many cases, the number of new artists
“Buyers have shown wide-ranging notable artists — he singled out Zhang has far outstripped the volume of new
interest in many areas of Asian art, Xiaogang — are “past their prime” collectors in these countries, creating
although it has been perfectly obvious and “reproducing less good quality the opportunity for reasonable prices
that the most excitement is in Chinese versions now” of the images that until the collectors catch up.
art,” said Colin Sheaf, chairman of initially brought them acclaim. In the Middle East, the key player
Bonhams’ Asia department. He also was concerned that Chinese is Iran, one of the most populous
Bois characterised half of his auction houses, instead of handling countries in the region and the one
gallery’s Asian buyers as “speculators, works on the contemporary market, that produces by far the largest
there to make money,” and has seen are the sites of first sales of some of number of artists. Iranian artists,
the same artworks sold at a Chinese these artists. However, he claimed, both living in Iran and in other
auction house on the market again the fundamentals of the Chinese countries, create artworks that
97
97 5/30/11 11:39:05
5/22/11 3:06:43 PM
AM
refl
and
and
incr
stag
worl
Iran
may
Fa
retir
art c
pain
and
note
mes
nega
polit
mes
you
prom
AD
Pe
EMIRATES TOWERS, 14TH FLOOR, SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD

P.O. BOX 9055, DUBAI - UAE
+ 971 4 330 43 43 + 971 4 330 39 93
FOR 24 HOURS LEGAL ASSISTANCE, PLEASE CALL

+ 971 (50) 328 99 99

reflect many of the same interests demonstrated the desirability of war with people of unimaginable
and concerns of artists in the West Iranian and other Middle Eastern wealth, but many of the richest
and elsewhere and Iran is competing contemporary art more than the people in the Middle East are not yet
increasingly for attention on the world auctions that have taken place in collectors of the contemporary artists
stage. For many collectors around the Dubai and Qatar. Christie’s was the in their midst. “Traditionally, Iranians
world, some of whom view all things first international auction house on have bought carpets as investment,”
Iranian with suspicion, these artists the scene, holding its first sale in said Mamak Nourbakhsh, owner of
may be promoting their nation. Dubai in 2006, followed by Sotheby’s Tehran’s Gallery Mamak.
Farbod Dowlatshahi, an Iranian (in Doha, Qatar) and Phillips de Pury “Today we see many rich Iranians
retired oil refinery builder and (in London) in 2009, and these have buying artwork, and in rather large
art collector (1,891 and counting become twice-annual events. numbers. Indeed, this has already
paintings, sculptures, installations “This is the wealthiest area in led to higher prices for the works of
and videos) currently living in Dubai, the world,” said Lina Lazaar, a many artists and has affected the
noted that “for 30 years, the only contemporary art specialist at art market here in general.”
message that came out of Iran was Sotheby’s who arranges the auction For the past three years, London’s
negative. Because of the current house’s sales. “When the collecting Waterhouse & Dodd Gallery has
political situation, the only positive spirit and habit has matured, you arranged an annual survey of
message coming out of Iran is the can expect prices to jump.” contemporary Middle Eastern art in
young people. The younger artists are And there lies the opportunity for its gallery, as well as created mini-
promoting a very positive future.” buyers right now. Ordinarily, one shows in its booths at art fairs in
Perhaps nothing, however, has wouldn’t want to get into a bidding Dubai and Abu Dhabi, in order to spur
A MURAL BY IRANIAN ARTIST SHIRANA SHAHBAZI AT THE VENICE BIENNALE
99
99 5/30/11 11:39:07
5/22/11 3:06:47 PM
AM
greater interest in collecting this art. problems are not new, but heightened
SOTHEBY’S IS EXPANDING INTO NEW MARKETS
At present, owner Ray Waterhouse security in the wake of 9/11 have led
claims, the greatest potential for to government-mandated greater
growth in buying “is still in the vigilance on the part of corporations,
Middle East. We have sold many even when the business is the buying
photographs and oils up to a value and selling of art. “We want to know
of $100,000 in the West, but above who the client is, and we want to
that price the collectors tend to be verify the identification with various
Middle Eastern buyers in the Middle forms of ID. If there is going to be
East or living in the West.” Becoming telephone bidding, we want to know
a patron of the arts has developed in advance who’s on the phone. Every
considerable cachet among the rich call is recorded, and we also make the
in this part of the world, for it is “the call; we don’t accept calls.”
desire of locals to collect and to be She said that Sotheby’s would not
seen collecting.” He has given talks in brought energy and money into the accept money from an unknown
Kuwait, and the UAE on how to build a galleries and auction houses and a numbered bank account, nor
collection, and one of those talks was little uncertainty. Who are these authorise to a bank account not in
to the crown princess of Abu Dhabi. new buyers? Where did they get their the consignor’s name. Christie’s
Lazaar noted that Middle Eastern money, and are they on the level? publishes a “Notice to Bidders”
collectors have looked to Western Since much of the action at the major informing those for whom this is
institutions, such as the auction auction houses is actually taking their “first time bidding at Christie’s”
houses, and collectors to signal place not on the sales floor but among of the various pieces of identification
which of their artists are of greatest staff members holding telephones, required, and asking for “48 hours in
value and importance. signaling to the auctioneer a bid on advance of a sale to allow sufficient
“Because no institutions did this the line from a would-be buyer far time to process the information.”
type of job until a few years ago, away, auctioneers have had to do more “Trusts and offshore companies,
we’re doing a lot of the curating to know who the bidders are. Money are advised to show the auction
job that a museum would do.” She laundering has become a concern. house tax documents, a certificate
added that Iranian and other Middle “This is our Know Your Client of incorporation and proof of address.
Eastern art galleries have used the programme,” said Jane Levine, Perhaps the largest challenges
auction houses’ catalogues as a way worldwide director of compliance have come from buyers and sellers
to educate their buyers, because of at Sotheby’s. Her job, and that of the in the developing world, such as
the critical essays in them. In the UK, team of lawyers working for her in China, India and Russia, where there
are “different ethical standards
and different levels of government
enforcement, presenting us with a
Because no institutions did this type of job in the culture clash.” Levine added that
Middle East until a few years ago, we are doing a lot turning away would-be consignors
of the curating that a museum would do and buyers is rare, but “we tell people
that we’re not comfortable doing
business with you if you’re not willing
to do it our way.”
the University of London also made a the US and elsewhere, is to ensure
purchase of 200 catalogues from one that both consignors and buyers are
art sale for one of its art courses. reputable and that the auction house Daniel Grant is a writer based in the US, who
The new globalised art market has is not used to launder money. The writes about art for The Wall Street Journal
100
OS04_092-100_ArtFinance.indd 100 5/30/11 11:39:12
5/22/11 3:06:50 PM
AM MS4650 S&R l
ned
d
ns,
ing
w
ous
e
w
ery
the
ot
AD
e’s”
ion
s in
nt
s,
e
ress.
rs
here
t
a
rs
ople
ling
who
al
MS4650 103
S&R lux_Ads_OpenSkies.indd 1 5/30/11 3:06:53
05/05/2011 PM
10:37
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE MARTINEZ GALLERY
102
OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 102104
5/30/11 4:25:46 PM OS04_102-103
THE RISE OF NEW YORK’S MOST UNLIKELY ART FORM
BY DIMITRI & GREGOR EHRLICH

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE MARTINEZ GALLERY
103
9/11 4:25:46 PM OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 103105

5/30/11 4:25:51 PM
AMERICAN GRAFFITI
G
raffiti today is such What follows is the story of the people “Are you JOE 182?” And the writer said,
an accepted part of who invented graffiti, and those who “No, I’m his ghost.” Because nobody
youth culture that watched them do it. Names of writers could catch them. They were just like
it’s hard to imagine are rendered in the style in which these mysterious figures.
what New Yorkers they appeared on the city’s walls and
experienced in the early seventies, subways (all caps usually indicates MICO
as they watched their city become an artist from the seventies). It began in different neighbourhoods.
steadily tattooed with hieroglyphics. But we all had one thing in common:
Some saw it as vandalism and a 1969 THE BEGINNING We wanted to be famous. I started
symbol of urban decay. But for writing in East Flatbush in 1970. Then
the writers who risked arrest, and IVOR L MILLER, AUTHOR OF slowly I met people from the four
the teenagers, film-makers, and, AEROSOL KINGDOM: SUBWAY other boroughs. Everybody went to
eventually, curators who admired PAINTERS OF NEW YORK CITY the writers’ bench at 149th Street and
them, graffiti was an art form. Humans have been writing symbols Grand Concourse in the Bronx. In
Galleries caught up to this view in on walls since time immemorial. Washington Heights, it was on 188th
the early eighties, when graffiti was But it’s safe to place the origins of a Street and Audubon Avenue. We
briefly part of the era’s art boom. New York style in the late sixties, as a would hang out, see our work, and
Modern graffiti began in younger generation’s artistic response everyone could get autographs
Philadelphia in the early sixties, to the public protests of the Black
when Cornbread and Cool Earl Power and civil-rights movements. TRACY ��
scrawled their names all over the city. Clearly something new happened I grew up in the Bronx. Me and my
By the late sixties, it was flourishing with the invention of the spray can, friend FJC4 were in Queens and we just gang
in Washington Heights, Brooklyn, and the influence of psychedelic posters, took a marker out. We never thought the
the Bronx. The New York Times took and colour TV. The Manhattanville we’d see the tag again, but on the way and
notice in July 1971, with a small profile projects just north of 125th Street in back, we caught the same train and it wou
of a graffiti artist named TAKI 183. West Harlem were the residence of an already had some other writing next and
By the mid-seventies, many important writer named TOPCAT 126. to it. It was like a communication. At you
subway cars were so completely the time, New York was all dark. We sepa
covered in paintings that it was SHARP had the Vietnam vets coming back, all in be
impossible to see out the window. TOPCAT 126 came from Philadelphia pumped up. We had the war protesters. Even
For writers, this was a golden age, in the late sixties, maybe ’68, and he And we had the street gangs. off,
when the most prolific could become started tagging the streets. [Tagging is as th
known as “kings” by going “all-city” writing your name] And he hooked up C.A.T. ��
— writing their names in all five with Julio 204 and TAKI 183, and they I was in the Savage Nomads. You MIC
boroughs. Mayor Lindsay declared grabbed the torch. had the Saints at 137th Street and We
the first war on graffiti in 1972, Broadway, and in the 170s you had seve
beginning a long, slow battle that C.A.T. �� the Young Galaxies. But if I was writ
seemed to culminate in May 1989, In the late sixties, I saw the name TAKI C.A.T. 87 and the guys from other that
when the last graffitied train was 183 in little letters everywhere, and neighborhoods saw my name, instead it de
finally removed from service. JOE 182 and Julio 204. One day I was of trying to beat me up they would ask inve
Yet today, graffiti etched with acid playing stickball on 182nd Street and for autographs. been
can be seen on subway windows, JOE 182 came out. He was one of the rich
and it’s alive and well on buildings hottest graffiti writers then. He said, JEFF CHANG, AUTHOR OF been
around the city. And thanks in part “Look what came out in the papers!” A HISTORY OF THE HIP HOP
to the internet, it is a worldwide There was a cartoon of a guy catching GENERATION HU
phenomenon in every language. someone writing graffiti, and saying, There were graffiti writers in many OF U
104
OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 104106 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:00
4:25:51 PM OS04_102-103
aid,
dy
ke
ds.
n:
d
hen
o
nd
th
FROM LEFT: CASE2,. MIDDLE TOP: MICO, MIDDLE BOTTOM: TRACY 168, FAR RIGHT: THE UNITED GRAFFITI ARTISTS IN 1973 [FROM LEFT, FIRST ROW: COCO
144 AND HUGO MARTINEZ; SECOND ROW: RICAN 619, LEE 163, AND NOVA 1; THIRD ROW: RICK 2, RAY-B 954, CANO 1, SJK 171, SNAKE 1, AND STAY-HIGH 149;
FOURTH ROW (STANDING): STITCH I, PHASE 2, CHARMIN 65, BUG 170]
y
just gangs, especially the larger ones like In 1971, when CAY 161 and JUNIOR 161 creative in the way it re-created
ght the Black Spades, the Savage Skulls, painted the 116th Street station, they decrepit space, derelict buildings, and
way and the Ghetto Brothers. The writers painted a top-to-bottom wall there. crumbling subways into real centres
d it would mark the gangs’ clubhouses That’s considered a milestone. And of energy. I found Hugo Martinez,
ext and often their turf. At the same time, Norman Mailer wrote about it in The who was a student at that time, and
At you had graffiti crews that moved Faith of Graffiti — that was the first he introduced me to these kids.
We separately from the gangs and could slip book ever about graffiti.
all in between their territorial restrictions. 1971 ST YLE WARS
ters. Eventually, as the gang structures died CAY ��
off, the graffiti writers could be seen The biggest and most dangerous place JEFF CHANG
as the heralds of a new era. was where your piece was recognised Your name is your brand, and writing
the most. I wrote my name with white your name is like printing money.
MICO spray paint on the wing of the angel in Quality (aesthetic style) and quantity
We didn’t call it graffiti in the early Bethesda Fountain and a lot of people (the number of trains and walls you’ve
seventies. We would say, “Let’s go said, “Wow, how did he get up there hit) are the primary ways that the
writing tonight.” Graffiti is a term and do that?” I grabbed one of the brand gains market share. If you’re
that The New York Times coined, and wings and climbed up. the biggest name on a line or in an
ead it denigrates the art because it was area, then you’re the king. After The
ask invented by youth of colour. Had it RICHARD GOLDSTEIN, New York Times wrote about TAKI 183
been invented by the children of the AUTHOR OF THE GRAFFITI HIT in 1971, there was more competition,
rich or the influential, it would have PARADE FEATURE FOR NEW YORK which means styles changed quicker.
been branded avant-garde Pop Art. MAGAZINE IN MARCH 1973
I loved the idea that graffiti defaced LEE
HUGO MARTINEZ, FOUNDER surfaces and re-created them in a It was a reflection of the great side of
ny OF UNITED GRAFFITI ARTISTS different image. It was immensely capitalism, where everyone wants
105

OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 105107 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:01
4:26:08 PM
AMERICAN GRAFFITI
to have the biggest stock or bond I had no competition there. One of nominated by a member, and if you graffi
portfolio, or the fastest or most the most important moments in my were good enough, you would be polit
expensive car. career was when I was voted into called in for an interview. I had my its e
United Graffiti Artists. first art-gallery show in SoHo in 1973, subw
MICO at the Razor Gallery. The first canvas New
In 1971, I was in the Sheepshead Bay HUGO MARTINEZ that was purchased by a collector was poin
layups one night — that’s the tunnel I started United Graffiti Artists in my Puerto Rico flag canvas, for $400. figh
where trains rest in between rush 1972 as a collective that provided an It was an effort to bring the art form
hours. And we found the names of alternative to the art world. I saw from the tunnels into the galleries. LEE
PAN 144, COCO 144 and ACE 137 this as the beginning of American It wa
on some of the cars. The paint was painting — everything else before LEE a sin
still wet. That opened our eyes to this came from Europe. These kids Most writers were more concerned incr
going all-city. were rechanneling all of those hippie about going out into the elements, Rav
ideas about freedom, peace and love not being put together on gallery talk
COCO �� by redefining the purpose of art. walls. Young people were interested The
I lived close to the IRT, and there was a They represented a celebration of in making a mark, literally, in their give
layup between 137th and 145th Street the rights of the salt of the earth over territory. It was seen as heroic. they
between the stops. We were there private property. Of c
every Saturday and Sunday morning, 1972 THE CRACKDOWN a ba
destroying the trains inside and out. MICO
My style back then was what we called It was the top writers from the JEFF CHANG MIC
a hit: just a signature, a single line. different boroughs. You had to be After Mayor Lindsay declared war on Espe
a gu
MICO map
RIFF 170 IN 1975
“Hitting” was just about getting up, yard
getting around. The more hits you We
had, the more famous you became. writ
“Killing” or “bombing” was a little more out a
intense. It means carpeting an area cam
— just hit hundreds of MICO, MICO, it wa
MICO, and kill that subway car. Or
you could do a masterpiece, a really C.A
big piece that was generally planned I got
out in a sketch. buse
got t
COCO �� I hid
I was the first to use a stencil. It said jum
COCO 144 with a crown on it. I was und
trying to develop speed, and I was able cam
to work faster that way. got h
all f
MICO
The letters got more refined and larger 19
and larger. We were each trying to
outdo the other. I was doing social- DA
political work, and unfortunately, It el
106
OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 106108 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:02
4:26:20 PM OS04_102-103
u graffiti in 1972, it became the focus of basic piece, to lettering, to stylized untamed, and style means I have
political campaigns, and in this sense, lettering, to cartoon characters, to class. So I was like an animal but with
its effects lasted much longer than the doing whole subway cars. respect. And they used that word for
73, subway-graffiti era. Since then, every the hip hop movie. They thought it
as New York City mayor has at some IVOR L MILLER was a saying that was all over the
was point reaffirmed his commitment to The movement really grew and street, but it was just the way we lived.
00. fighting “the war.” blossomed on the trains, since it
m interacted with the city’s population, LEE
LEE not just other writers. Writing is When wild style came around in the
It wasn’t so much that the city did meant to be an “art in motion.” The mid-seventies, it was sculpture in
a single crackdown. It came in form was developed with movement motion. They broke down the alphabet
increments. At one point, Richard and the space of the train car in mind. and turned it into a three-dimensional
Ravitch, the MTA chairman, was in thing. I thought it was riveting, but I
talks with a group of graffiti artists. BLADE wanted people to understand and not
d The offer was that if these guys were When Lindsay was mayor, each train be confused. On a moving train, the
r given the green light to decorate, could you painted would actually run for art is coming at you, so it shouldn’t be
they get the 30,000 other kids to stop? years. It was beautiful. It was like antagonising, it should be tantalising. It
Of course, it went south. But they had thousands of rolling billboards. Beame should open up your pores and seep in.
N a bargaining table and everything. painted all the subway trains brand-
new in 1975, and then everyone did TRACY ��
MICO everything big, with paint rollers. In You can see my name on the door of
on Especially in the beginning, it was the mid-seventies, you couldn’t see the train if you watch the opening
a guerrilla war. We had strategic out the windows anymore. of Welcome Back, Kotter. I wrote
maps of the subway system, of which GOD BLESS AMERICA for the
75
yard or layup was hot or cooled off. JEFF CHANG bicentennial. I did three pieces in
We gathered intelligence info at the The MTA’s attempts to whitewash red, white, and blue, and it was so
writers’ bench. And if you got chased the trains only further intensified beautiful that the MTA immediately
out at Coney Island that morning, you the process of stylistic change, painted over it. They couldn’t let
came to the bench and told everyone because there were many more anyone know that we loved America.
it was hot. potential targets, and they are all
clean canvases. 1977 STREET STARS
C.A.T. ��
I got caught with a friend hitting the ADAM MANSBACH, AUTHOR LEE
buses on 125th Street. As soon as we OF ANGRY BLACK WHITE BOY The electricity blackout was the
got there, guards came with weapons. If you watch Death Wish, the Charles tipping point. It was a stepping-stone
I hid under the bus and my friend Bronson movie from 1974, he lives in a to graffiti becoming a worldwide
jumped into the Hudson. I crawled graffiti-saturated world, and it pushes phenomenon. That was a chapter that
under the buses to 133rd Street and him to the tipping point. Middle-class ended when people said to themselves
came out covered in mud and ice. I commuters from Jersey or Long Island they can jump right in and develop
got home, and my friend showed up got increasingly alienated, because themselves as artists in a new context.
all frozen. He swam downtown. not only is there a conversation going
on that they are not a part of, they TRACY ��
1973 ALL- CIT Y KINGS can’t even read what is being written. We changed the whole world in
’77. After the blackout, they started
DAZE TRACY �� using roll-down gates on stores
It elaborated from a signature, to a I started wild style. Wild means because all the windows were busted
107

OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 107109 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:02
4:26:20 PM
AMERICAN GRAFFITI
from the looting. When the gates a whole car by Futura, a whole car by that said fab 5. Right in the middle of The
came down, they looked dark and SEEN, a whole car by LEE, a whole car Times Square. Fred
weird, so we painted them to make by MITCH — they were just popping such
them look beautiful. up on a daily basis. These were FAB � FREDDY, HIP HOP
massive pieces. You could watch a IMPRESARIO JEF
CHARLIE AHEARN train emerging aboveground, and you You have to remember that in those Ther
The strongest memory I have is 1978, might see three or four fresh whole days your prowess — being stealthy, espe
coming across all these handball cars done in the past couple of days. sneaking into the train yards, breaking writ
courts north of the Brooklyn Bridge by the law in a crazily insane manner, graffi
Lee Quiñones [a.k.a. LEE]. They were BLADE not getting busted — was a big part of hop
exploding with colour. They had a lot I wanted to make sure you could see the energy. I helped explain to people mov
of control. They had a great deal of a train from five blocks away and you that graffiti was part of hip hop. It War
comic sensibility. I would ask the kids, could read it. COMET 1 and myself was always something I saw as one And
“Who made these?” And they would invented the blockbuster in 1980: very cultural movement. whe
look at me incredulously, like, “LEE is large, square words, but very legible. fash
the most famous artist in the world!” We painted over 5,000 trains each, COCO �� even
over the span of those years. I was listening to jazz, Latin jazz, shap
GLENN O’BRIEN, ART CRITIC and rock. This was before hip hop
There was a great moment around 1980 HIP HOP was created. Anybody that does their RIC
1978 when all of these stars were homework knows graffiti came first. The
emerging — LEE, Futura 2000, SAMO CHARLIE AHEARN the w
and Keith [Haring], Lady Pink and In the summer of 1980, I was making GLENN O’BRIEN was
Zephyr — and you would go out and an art show in an abandoned It’s like, what’s the connection miso
see stuff that was unique. massage parlour in Times Square. between jazz and Abstract to w
Fab 5 Freddy started talking to me Expressionism? They weren’t the
CHARLIE AHEARN about making a movie about graffiti same people doing hip hop and 19
By the summer of 1980, competition and rap music. So I got Fab and Lee to graffiti, but there was a cultural,
had reached a fever pitch. You’d see do a piece on the front of the building mental, and spiritual connection. MIC
PHOTO: HENRY CHALFANT
108
OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 108110
5/30/11 4:26:22 PM OS04_102-103
e of The only one who did both was Fab 5 A lot of people became discouraged I was painting on rooftops. So the first
Freddy, and that’s because he was in from writing on the subways because time I got to a gallery where I could
such a hurry to become famous. some of these toys started destroying control elements like wind and rain,
our work. I was wasting my energy. So it gave me the opportunity to do more
JEFF CHANG I decided to start putting my work on than just my name.
e There is still a raging debate, canvas to be able to preserve it.
y, especially amongst older graffiti SHARP
king writers, as to whether hip hop and LEE In 1981, you had a show called Beyond
, graffiti are linked. But once hip The crackdown couldn’t have come Words at the Mudd Club with Lee
of hop was presented with graffiti in at a better time. Things had reached and Fab 5 Freddy. That was really
ple movies such as Wild Style and Style the peak of achievement artistically. the beginning of cross-pollination
Wars, history took a different turn. The fine art world was embracing it. between downtown and uptown.
e And clearly, the art of hip hop now— We had front-row seats to a lucrative
whether we’re talking graphic design, atmosphere that opened doors. FAB � FREDDY
fashion, painting, conceptual art, and The word artist was rarely used at
even sculpture — has thoroughly been PATTI ASTOR, OWNER that time, until I began to have shows.
shaped by the language of graffiti. OF FUN GALLERY Keith Haring would tell you he was not
I met Fab 5 Freddy at a party downtown. a graffiti artist, but he was inspired by
eir RICHARD GOLDSTEIN And through him, this whole world got it. He was very conscious of the racial
st. The reason graffiti didn’t cash in opened up to me. I showed Jean-Michel, dynamics of fitting in with the black
the way rap music did is that it Keith Haring, Kenny Scharf, LEE, and Puerto Rican kids. And he did it.
was illegal, and it didn’t have the Zephyr, Dondi, Fab 5 Freddy, Revolt,
misogyny and violence that so appeal A-1, Rammel-zee, Iz Da Wiz, Futura DAZE
to white teenagers. 2000, Lady Pink, Crash, Daze, and lots Keith and Jean-Michel were never
of others. Some said that by going into true subway artists. People had an
1981 BUT IS IT ART? the galleries, it would lose its purity. easier time digesting what they did
because they could refer back to art
MICO CRASH history. Whereas with our work, it
PHOTO: HENRY CHALFANT
A WHOLE CAR BY CASE 2 FROM 1979
109
9/11 4:26:22 PM OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 109111

5/30/11 4:26:23 PM
AMERICAN GRAFFITI
was like learning a new language, and HUGO MARTINEZ Museum has pieces in their
most people didn’t want to. Graffiti is much more prevalent than collection. The Museum of the City of
it was in the early seventies. It’s on New York has pieces in its collection.
RICHARD GOLDSTEIN every building in the city. It’s much The museums are the last stop on the
There was this period when major more than 11,000 train cars! subway line.
art dealers were after all the graffiti
artists. I told the artists not to trust SHARP BLADE
the galleries because they would give I think what people are doing today In 2003, I made the cover of Sotheby’s
them 15 minutes of attention and then is really destructive. I feel conflicted auction catalogue.
dump them as soon as they got bored. about even having that opinion. I
Which is actually what happened. don’t see any artistic value in etched CRASH
windows. This glass costs thousands Graffiti is much better off today than
LADY PINK of dollars. I’m going to be 40 years old, it was 10 years ago. Because of the
The art world people are sharks like and I’m a property owner. Internet, it has become so global.
anyone else, so it kind of prepares us,
being underground, to deal with the MICO JEFF CHANG
art world aboveground. At least with a Ironically enough, my full-time job What now exists is a massive global
guy in the tunnel, you know what his today is in the New York City court art movement that some people call
intentions are. system. And we get graffiti cases all “neo-graffiti” or “post-graffiti.” There
the time. are hundreds of galleries around the
1989 THE END world that support so-called street
COCO �� art, and a growing market of buyers.
DAN OLLEN, A FORMER NY C When I was out there, it was a
PROSECUTOR WHO HANDLED misdemeanor; now it’s a felony. It STASH
HUNDREDS OF GRAFFITI CASES takes a lot of balls to be a writer today. I own a few businesses, and when
Graffiti got way out of hand in the people bomb my windows, I’m the guy
eighties and early nineties. Some CRASH that goes out there with the bucket
time in the early nineties, I began to The Museum of Modern Art showed and paints over it. But I do it with that
notice a change. Although I am sure something of mine. The Brooklyn coy grin on my face, like, “Payback!”
the drafters of the Anti-Vandalism
Act would like to take credit for this
change, I don’t believe the enactment
of two misdemeanor crimes had much
to do with the abatement of graffiti.
I believe the public got fed up with
young men and women damaging
property that did not belong to them.
20 06 GRAFFITI FOREVER
KAVES
They declared victory, but it was a farce.
The graffiti moved off the subways and
went aboveground. Now it’s on rooftops
and churches all over the city, and it has
GRAFFITI ON A WALL IN SHANGHAI, CHINA
become a private-property issue.
110
OS04_102-103_Grafiti.indd 110112 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:26
4:26:52 PM '%/%/$&.2S
y of
ion.
the
by’s
an
al
all
ere
he
AD
t
rs.
n
guy
t
hat
!”
NA
9/11 4:26:52 PM '%/%/$&.2SHQ6NLHV[LQGG

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 113 $0
5/30/11 3:07:37 PM
Matthew Albanese is a New Jersey-based diorama artist who cre-
ates remarkably lifelike scenes from everyday objects. This scene
is made of steel wool, cotton, ground parsley and moss. Each of
the landscapes featured on these pages took months to create
and were painstakingly planned, designed and photographed.
He uses a variety of different photographic techniques to force
the viewer to see these everyday items in new ways.
112
S
OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd114112 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:41
5:00:16PM
PMOS04_112-121_Pho
STRANGE WORLDS 113
19/11 5:00:16 PMOS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd 115 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:42
5:00:27 PM PM
STRANGE WORLDS
Icebreaker Twenty-five pounds of sugar cooked at varying

temperatures (hard crack and pulled sugar recipes). It’s basically
made out of candy, salt, egg whites, corn syrup, cream of tartar,
powdered sugar, blue food colouring, ink and flour. This diorama
took three days of cooking, and two weeks of building.
114
OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd 114
5/30/11 5:00:48 PM OS04_112-121
Breaking Point This volcano model was made out of tile grout,
cotton, and phosphorous ink. It was illuminated from within
by six 60 watt light bulbs.
115
9/11 5:00:48 PM OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd117

5/30/11 5:01:26 PM
STRANGE WORLDS
Salt Water Falls This model was made out of glass, plexiglass, tile
grout, moss, twigs, salt, painted canvas and dry ice. The waterfall
was created from a time exposure of falling table salt.
116

OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd 116 5/19/11 5:01:53 PM
OS04_112-121_Pho
117

19/11 5:01:53 PM
OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd 117 5/19/11 5:02:10 PM
STRANGE WORLDS
Fields After the Storm This model is made simply out of faux
fur (fields), cotton (clouds) and sifted tile grout (mountains).
The perspective is forced as in all of my images, and the lighting
effect was created by simply shifting the white balance.
118
OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd 118
5/30/11 5:02:37 PM OS04_112-121
Aurora Borealis This one was made by photographing a beam
of coloured light against a black curtain to achieve the edge
effect. The trees were composited from life (so far the only
real -life element in any of these images). The stars are simply
strobe light through holes in cork board.
119
9/11 5:02:37 PM OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd121

5/30/11 5:02:49 PM
STRANGE WORLDS
New Life #2 A diorama made using painted parchment paper,

thread, hand dyed ostrich feathers, carved chocolate, wire, raffia,
masking tape, coffee, synthetic potting moss and cotton.
120
OS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd122120 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:53
5:04:30PM
PMOS04_112-121_Ph
121
19/11 5:04:30 PMOS04_112-121_PhotoEssay.indd 123 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:07:54
5:05:27 PMPM
STYLE • MAPPED
SERIOUS MEN SHOW OFF
THEIR FASHION SENSE
122

OS04_122-123_Fashion.indd 122 5/22/11 11:42:47
OS04_122-123_Fash
AM
123

/22/11 11:42:47
OS04_122-123_Fashion.indd
AM 123 5/22/11 11:42:55 AM
B
Ö×Û

BRIEFING
Ö×Ûº ¨
P. 130 º green waste P. ÖØÛº route map
EMIRAT ES
SKYCNACY AGNDO
R
EFFICIE
O RELIABLE
SPEED KEY T
IVERY
CARGO DEL
E GLOBE
ACROSS TH
P1 2 8
125
OS04_125-125_BREIFINGCover.indd
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 127 125 5/19/11 3:08:22
5/30/11 5:12:39 PM
EMIRATES NEWS
ANNUAL REPORT 2010-2011

THE EMIRATES GROUP HAS POSTED
record net profits of US$1.6 billion
(Dhs5.9 billion) in the 2010-11
financial year, making it the most
successful in its 25-year history.
The recently released 2010-11
Annual Report for the Emirates
Group — which consists of Emirates
Airline, dnata and its subsidiaries
— shows that in the past 12 months
the company achieved a record net
profit increase of 42.9 per cent.
On its own, Emirates Airline
achieved net profits of $1.6 billion,
an increase of 51.9 per cent from
last year’s already high levels.
The airline’s revenues rose by 26.4
per cent to $15.6 billion, which is
remarkable in a year that witnessed
constant widespread disruption to The past 12 months saw the highest ever level of
the aviation industry. passengers flying on Emirates — with an 80 per
With the backdrop of cent capacity on all fights
environmental obstacles, such as
the global interruption of flights
due to the Eyjafjallaökull volcano
eruption and the heavy snowfall ever level of passengers flying on footprint, adding six new destinations,
that forced airports to close across Emirates — with a load factor of 80 % including Amsterdam, Prague, Dakar
Western Europe and the US, the (percentage of seats occupied). This and Madrid, to its extensive network
profits achieved by the Emirates is even more impressive considering — while even more destinations are
Group are a credit to its ability to the substantial increase in passenger planned for the coming year.
efficiently manage the different capacity (13 per cent) over the same The global airport and travel
areas of its business. 12-month period. service provider dnata also had a
His Highness Sheikh Ahmed bin After a decent recovery in the successful year with its acquisition
Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and previous financial year, Emirates of the Alpha Flight Group Ltd,
Chief Executive of Emirates Airline SkyCargo also posted impressive allowing it to become the world’s
150 $
& Group, attributed the success figures with its total tonnage rising fourth largest air services provider
of the Group to its solid business 11.8 per cent, hauling a total of 1.8 and significantly expand its
strategy, its loyal customers and million tonnes of cargo, and seeing a international presence.
suppliers and to the talent of its revenue increase of 27.6 per cent to a
57,000 employees across the globe. record $2.4 billion. The Annual Report can be seen in full at
The past 12 months saw the highest Emirates also expanded its global www.theemiratesgroup.com
126
OS04_126-126_EKNews.indd 128 5/30/11
5/22/11 3:08:24
9:37:42 PM
AM
ǋȮſȚǍȮȮű ȝȚȤƾȮȮžȁȚ ȰǋȮȮƶȮȮź
your home in dubai ǠȮȮŮȢ ǠȮź ǙȮƄȮƸȮȮŮ
Located in the heart of Dubai

sheikh zayed road, Dubai
Centre of Dubai’s business district
Burj Khalifa and Dubai Mall – 5 min.
Metro Station in front of Hotel

Our Location
Abu Dhabi Airport – 45 min.
Dubai Airport – 15 min.
Jumeirah Beach – 5 min.
Mall of the Emirates/Ski Dubai – 10 min.
Dubai International Financial Centre – 5 min.

of
er
Dubai International Convention Centre – 5 min.
500 rooms, suites, business centers & meeting rooms
s, Spa & outdoor Swimming Pool.

r
For leisure & business
150 $ Starting Rate, Terms and conditions apply

r
P.O. Box 32161, Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Tel: +971 4 323 0000 I Fax: +971 4 323 0003
reservation@emiratesgrandhotel.com
2/11 9:37:42 AM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 129 5/30/11 3:08:24 PM

EMIRATES NEWS
GOODS TO GO
SPEED AND EFFICIENCY ARE KEY FOR AIR FREIGHT
THE PERCEPTION FOR MANY IS THAT system — a streamlining process

transporting cargo is as simple as SkyCargo’s use of the unique to Emirates. With cargo
checking in and getting on a flight. Emirates network susceptible to variable dimensions,
However, the reality is far more allows us to fly into such as weight and volume, it was
complex, a process that relies on secondary airports created to marry the commercial
multiple checks, logistical planning and the operational aspect of
and security monitoring. transporting cargo, allowing for
A trip to Emirates SkyCargo gives instant updates on what stage a
an idea of the size of operation that Pradeep Kumar, the Senior Vice particular cargo is at, or how much
is carried out behind the scenes. President of Cargo Revenue availability there is on a freighter.
With eight specialised Boeing 747 Optimisation. Kumar says that In March 2011 Emirates SkyCargo
and 777 freighter jets, hauling a SkyCargo’s use of the Emirates’ launched its first 100 per cent
total of 1.8 million tonnes of cargo, widebodied fleet allows them to paperless freighter flight carrying
Emirates SkyCargo now ranks transport cargo to ‘secondary’ 103,884 tonnes of cut flowers
fifth internationally in scheduled airports, and not just capital cities. between Nairobi and Amsterdam.
freight tonne kilometres (FTK, “In England, for example, we fly to The initiative — E-freight — aims to
the measurement of one metric London, Newcastle, Manchester revolutionise the cargo industry by
tonne of revenue load carried and Birmingham. Whereas other removing paperwork, streamlining
per kilometre). airlines only tend to fly to the main it into an electronic barcode.
“One of our main goals is to cities and then transport from there So far 51 of the 111 cities Emirates
provide the customers the best via trucks,” says Kumar. SkyCargo serves are now E-freight
value for money by focusing on An example of this is the compliant, illustrating Emirates’
the service and quality,” explains development of the SkyChain commitment to progress.
38.4
36.3
47.9
128
OS04_128-128_EKFeature.indd 128 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:08:28
6:12:06 PM
s,
go
o
y
g
UAE IS MAKING THE RIGHT CHOICE. Gulf News is UAE’s No. 1 English
newspaper. As validated by independent research, it enjoys a 70% higher readership over its nearest competitor.
es
Gulf News, as well as its Classifieds and Tabloid publications, rank as the 3 most-read English publications.
t
Audited figures for Gulf News confirm a circulation of 108,750 copies within the region, making it the clear
leader by far, even if compared to the unaudited figures claimed by the competition.
38.4
26.4
25.0
36.3
16.0
27.0
47.9
17.8
11.5
3.7
9.1
Source: IPSOS MediaCT - NRS -UAE - 2010 BPA Circulation Statement

Average Issue Readership across all Non-Arabs in the UAE.

bca.
15%
EMIRATES NEWS
EASE
AGE DECR
THE AVER T PR INT
O
IN NOISE FO
IN EA CH N EW GREENWEB
N
GENERATIO
AIR CR A FT
OF
Here is a list of some of the most

influential and active tweeters who
are going green online.
MUST FOLLOW:
smart waste
@350 A grassroots organisation of online
campaigns, consisting of thousands of
volunteer organisers from 188 countries.
@ECOINTERACTIVE Costa Rican-based eco

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES ENCOMPASS A LOT MORE THAN OIL SPILLS AND preservation society. Inspiring action and
commercial logging. Even the constant updating of technology can have empowering people through conservation,
C
a damaging environmental impact, leading to a rise in surplus electronic reforestation and education.
M
goods around the world, known as e-waste. With electronic products, such
as mobile phones, laptops and televisions being made from a variety of
Y
@GRIST Highlighting the best of
materials, recycling them has often been difficult. Recycling facilities are environmental journalism. A beacon CM
now beginning to cater for e-waste, by dismantling and reusing the necessary in the smog. MY
components, such as the metal casings and the electrical components. CY
The Emirates Group has begun to tackle this growing problem, recently GREEN LIFESTYLE TIPS: CMY
launching a new IT and e-waste recycling programme. The programme looks @DOTHEGREENTHING A not-for-profit
K
to encourage the green disposal of electrical devices. The Group has installed public service that inspires people to lead
tailor-made, wooden recycling boxes at their offices — encouraging their a greener life. Features active community
employees to dispose of their goods cleanly in order to minimise waste. members around the world.
THE AMOUNT OF ELECTRICITY GENERATED
FROM RENEWABLE BIOMASS AT THE BOEING
80%
787 PRODUCTION PLANT IN SOUTH CAROLINA.
GREEN INDIA TREE HUGGERS EARTH DAY THE BIG THIRST

Mark your calendar People are helping To celebrate Earth Day Charles Fishman’s The
as June 5 is World the UK’s National on the 22nd April 2011, Big Thirst explores the
Environment Day. Trust decide online a total of 100 trees were problems and the THE NUMBER OF CITIES AND TOWNS THAT
5,000
India has been selected how to run a real-life planted around the innovative ways that PARTICIPATED TO EARTH HOUR 2011
by the UN as this year’s working farm in Dubai’s Sevens cricket will potentially arise
global hosts, with the Cambridgeshire – with pitches by Emirates regarding the future of
the 2011 theme being each of the 10,000 staff. Earth Day was the Earth’s water
‘Forests: Nature at participants paying a celebrated by millions supplies. An important,
Your Service’. £30 subscription. around the world. timely book.
130
OS04_130-130_EKGreen.indd
132 5/19/11 3:08:35
5/30/11 5:36:44 PM
bca.pdf 5/23/11 4:52:59 PM
co
n,
C
CM
MY
CY
CMY
%
NA.
0
fitf
EMIRATES NEWS
BEFORE YOU R JOU R N EY

CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR BEFORE
TRAVELLING IF YOU HAVE ANY
MEDICAL CONCERNS ABOUT
MAKING A LONG JOURNEY, OR IF YOU
SUFFER FROM A RESPIRATORY OR
IN THE AIR CARDIOVASCULAR CONDITION.
PLAN FOR THE DESTINATION � WILL
TO HELP YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR rejuvenate for your holiday or be YOU NEED ANY VACCINATIONS OR
destination feeling relaxed and effective at achieving your goals on SPECIAL MEDICATIONS?
refreshed, Emirates has developed a business trip, these simple tips will GET A GOOD NIGHT’S REST BEFORE
this collection of helpful travel tips. help you to enjoy your journey and THE FLIGHT.
Regardless of whether you need to time on board with Emirates today. EAT LIGHTLY AND SENSIBLY.
AT TH E AI R PORT
SMART TRAVELLER
C
ALLOW YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIME

M
FOR CHECK�IN.
Y
AVOID CARRYING HEAVY BAGS
DRINK TRAVEL THROUGH THE AIRPORT AND ONTO CM
PLENTY LIGHTLY THE FLIGHT AS THIS CAN PLACE THE MY
OF WATER BODY UNDER CONSIDERABLE STRESS. CY
ONCE THROUGH TO DEPARTURES TRY CMY
AND RELAX AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

K
REHYDRATE WITH WATER OR JUICES FREQUENTLY. CARRY ONLY THE ESSENTIAL ITEMS THAT
DRINK TEA AND COFFEE IN MODERATION. YOU WILL NEED DURING YOUR FLIGHT. DU R ING THE FLIGHT
SUCKING AND SWALLOWING WILL
HELP EQUALISE YOUR EAR PRESSURE
MAKE DURING ASCENT AND DESCENT.
YOURSELF KEEP BABIES AND YOUNG PASSENGERS
COMFORTABLE MOVING MAY SUFFER MORE ACUTELY
WITH POPPING EARS, THEREFORE
CONSIDER PROVIDING A DUMMY.
LOOSEN CLOTHING, REMOVE JACKET AND EXERCISE YOUR LOWER LEGS AND CALF GET AS COMFORTABLE AS
AVOID ANYTHING PRESSING AGAINST YOUR BODY. MUSCLES. THIS ENCOURAGES BLOOD FLOW. POSSIBLE WHEN RESTING AND
TURN FREQUENTLY.
AVOID SLEEPING FOR LONG PERIODS
USE SKIN IN THE SAME POSITION.
WEAR MOISTURISER
GLASSES W H EN YOU ARR IV E
TRY SOME LIGHT EXERCISE OR READ IF
YOU CAN’T SLEEP AFTER ARRIVAL.
CABIN AIR IS DRIER THAN NORMAL THEREFORE APPLY A GOOD QUALITY MOISTURISER TO
SWAP YOUR CONTACT LENSES FOR GLASSES. ENSURE YOUR SKIN DOESN’T DRY OUT. P.O. Box
132
OS04_132-132_EKComfort.indd 132 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:08:44
5:35:38 PM
fitflop_OS.pdf 4/18/11 2:48:52 PM
CM
MY
CY
CMY
Available at : BAHRAIN : Debenhams, Sun & Sand Sports, The Athletes Foot, Heels Boutique, Shoe City, Al Boom
Marine, Duty Free || KUWAIT : Debenhams, Shoe Mart, The Athletes Foot, Intersport || LEBANON
Dbayeh || OMAN : Shoe City || QATAR : Courir Go Sports, Debenhams, Galaxy Sports, Shoe Mart, The Athletes Foot, Blue
Salon, Shoe City, Ozone || UAE : Dubai Duty Free, Go Sports, Harvey Nichols, Impressions, Intersport, Shoe City, Jumeirah
P.O. Box.17684, W/H: FZS1/AJ02 , Jebel Ali Free Zone, Dubai - UAE Sports House, K Corner, Picnico, Shoe Mart, Sun & Sand Sports, Beyond The Beach, Shoes 4 Us, Rip Curl Stores, The
Tel: + 971 4 886 0715, Fax: +971 4 886 0716 Athletes Foot, Debenhams || SAUDI ARABIA : Shoe Mart, Zahid Trec, Sun & Sand Sports, Intersport, Shoe City, Go Sports
E-mail: cathy@sourcerite.ae Debenhams,

CABIN
L BE
CREW WIL LP
EMIRATES NEWS
HE
HAPPY TO D
E
IF YOU NE
ASSMISPTLEATINNGCE EL
TR
CO
THE FORMS
IF
TR
TH
VI
TO US CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION FORMS YO
EL
�ES
WHETHER YOU’RE TRAVELLING TO, OR THROUGH, THE UNITED is as hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will offer you two TO
States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs forms when you are nearing your destination. We provide
and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey guidelines below, so you can correctly complete the forms. ES
C
CUSTOMS DECLAR ATION FORM IMMIGR ATION FORM I
All passengers arriving into the W
US need to complete a CUSTOMS Y
DECLARATION FORM. If you are travelling A
as a family this should be completed O
by one member only. The form must be I
completed in English, in capital letters, A
and must be signed where indicated. A
The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival

/ Departure Record) should be
completed if you are a non-US citizen
in possession of a valid US visa and TH
your final destination is the US or BE
if you are in transit to a country
9
outside the US. A separate form
must be completed for each person,
including children travelling on their
parents’ passport. The form includes a
Departure Record which must be kept
safe and given to your airline when you
leave the US.
TH
If you hold a US or Canadian
4
FA
passport, US Alien Resident Visa
(Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a
valid ESTA (right), you are not required
to complete an immigration form.
134
OS04_134-135_EKVisaGuide.indd 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:08:47
5:38:58 PM OS04_134-135
E ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR WILL EXPIRE ALONG WITH
TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA) YOUR PASSPORT.
IF YOU ARE AN INTERNATIONAL APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA
TRAVELLER WISHING TO ENTER
THE UNITED STATES UNDER THE NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE

VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME, FOR THE VISA WAIVER *:
YOU MUST APPLY FOR ANDORRA, AUSTRALIA,
ELECTRONIC AUTHORISATION AUSTRIA, BELGIUM, BRUNEI,
�ESTA� UP TO �� HOURS PRIOR CZECH REPUBLIC, DENMARK,
AD
o TO YOUR DEPARTURE. ESTONIA, FINLAND, FRANCE,
GERMANY, HUNGARY, ICELAND,
ESTA FACTS: IRELAND, ITALY, JAPAN, LATVIA,
CHILDREN AND LIECHTENSTEIN, LITHUANIA,
INFANTS REQUIRE AN LUXEMBURG, MALTA, MONACO,
INDIVIDUAL ESTA.
THE ONLINE ESTA SYSTEM
WILL INFORM YOU WHETHER

THE NETHERLANDS, NEW
ZEALAND, NORWAY, PORTUGAL,
SAN MARINO, SINGAPORE,

80 mm wide x
YOUR APPLICATION HAS BEEN
AUTHORISED, NOT AUTHORISED
OR IF AUTHORISATION
SLOVAKIA, SLOVENIA, SOUTH
KOREA, SPAIN, SWEDEN,
SWITZERLAND AND THE

224 mm high
IS PENDING. UNITED KINGDOM**.
A SUCCESSFUL ESTA * SUBJECT TO CHANGE
APPLICATION IS VALID ** ONLY BRITISH CITIZENS QUALIFY

UNDER THE VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME.
FOR TWO YEARS, HOWEVER
THIS MAY BE REVOKED OR
THE DOLLAR VALUE IN BILLIONS OF THE AGREEMENT SIGNED IN ��

BETWEEN EMIRATES AND BOEING FOR �� ER AIRCRAFT
WHERE
9.1
THE AVERAGE NUMBER OF STAFF IN THE EMIRATES CATERING
ARE YOU
GOING?
TELL US OR UPLOAD A PIC AT
430
FACILITY KITCHEN AT ANY ON TIME:
FACEBOOK.COM/OPENSKIESMAGAZINE
TWITTER.COM/OPENSKIESMAG
135
9/11 5:38:58 PM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 137135

OS04_134-135_EKVisaGuide.indd 5/30/11
5/19/11 3:08:50
5:38:58 PM
EMIRATES NEWS
136

OS04_136-139_EKRouteMap.indd 136 5/19/11 5:45:01 PM
OS04_136-139_EKR
137

19/11 5:45:01 PM
OS04_136-139_EKRouteMap.indd 137 5/19/11 5:45:04 PM
EMIRATES NEWS
138
OS04_136-139_EKRouteMap.indd
5/30/11 5:45:07 PM OS04_136-139
AD
139
9/11 5:45:07 PM OS04_136-139_EKRouteMap.indd

5/30/11 5:45:09 PM
THE MIDDLE EAST’S ULTIMATE DESTINATION FOR STYLE
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
www.twitter.com/WeAreLovestyle
www.facebook.com/loveLOVESTYLE For m
lovestyle_mastercard_laptop_ad_openskies.indd
OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 142 1 5/24/11
5/30/11 3:26:30
3:21:49 PM OS04_141-143
THE FLOENETTAINS
C
OUR FLEET ADE
153 PLANESS. SMENGER
UP OF 145
PA
D 8 CARGO
PLANES AN
PLANES
YLE
For more information: www.emirates.com/ourf leet
4/11 3:26:30 PM OS04_141-143_EKFleet.indd 141

5/30/11 5:48:42 PM
FLEET GUIDE
Boeing 777-300ER Number of Aircraft: 54 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m
Air
Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m
Air
Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 2 Range 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
Air
Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 747-400F/747-ERF Number of Aircraft: 3/2 Range 8,232km/9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m Air
142
OS04_141-143_EKFleet.indd
144 5/19/11 3:22:06
5/30/11 5:49:19 PM OS04_141-143
Airbus A380-800 Number of Aircraft: 15 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m
Airbus A340-500 Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m
Airbus A340-300 Number of Aircraft: 8 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m
Airbus A330-200 Number of Aircraft: 27 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m
143
9/11 5:49:19 PM OS04_141-143_EKFleet.indd 143

5/30/11 5:49:49 PM
maha
NEXT
MONTH…
C
CM
MY
CY
CMY
I
n the world of aviation, most things just keep getting better. There was a
time when planes had to fly around mountain ranges, and your inflight
meal consisted of whatever sandwich you remembered to bring with you.
Life was not all that bad however and next month we go back in time to celebrate
all things retro. We take a long and crazy trip via the ‘Hippy Trail’ a journey
that takes us through some of the most fascinating places on the planet, now
sadly, mostly off limits to all but the most fearless travellers. We also look at
what was supposed to be the ultimate ‘city of the future’, but turned out to be an
urban nightmare. Add to this our regular mix of great content from around the
world, and going back in time has never been so much fun.
facebook.com/openskiesmagazine www.openskiesmagazine.com twitter.com/openskiesmag
144
OS04_144-144_NextMonth.indd 144
5/30/11 5:53:08 PM
mahallati.pdf 3/17/11 6:31:43 PM
CM
MY
CY
CMY

www.omegawatches.com
STARRING
NICOLE KIDMAN
More information available at OMEGA Middle East, Emirates Towers, Dubai, UAE. Tel: +971 4 3300455

Openskies - June 2011

Загружено:

Сведения о документе

Оригинальное название

Авторское право

Доступные форматы

Поделиться этим документом

Поделиться или встроить документ

Параметры публикации

Этот документ был вам полезен?

Это неприемлемый материал?

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

Openskies - June 2011

Загружено:

Авторское право:

Доступные форматы

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 2 5/30/11 3:01:54 PM

For more information visit www.audi-me.com/A6 or your local dealer.

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 4 5/30/11 3:01:56 PM

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 5 5/30/11 3:01:56 PM

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 12 5/30/11 3:03:33 PM

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 18 5/30/11 3:03:56 PM

For a complete list of worldwide destinations,

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 19 5/30/11 3:03:57 PM

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 20 5/30/11 3:04:02 PM (K) J00407 em

Mobiles & Telecom :"6XXZhhdg^Zh 6eea^VcXZh

Gaming LZaacZhh$;^icZhh and more...

Emax. The power of choice.

Dubai: Oasis Centre 04-5154444, Mirdif City Centre 04-2843989,

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 22 5/30/11 3:04:06 PM OS04_029-029

PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE Telephone: (+971 4) 282 4060

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 24 5/30/11 3:04:15 PM OS04_023-023

ROME ’S CULTURAL HERITAGE IS HAMPERING A NEW GENERATION OF

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 26 5/30/11 3:04:18 PM OS04_025-025

ALEX DANCHEV T HREE

ART IS…? it is life around us

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 28 5/30/11 3:04:21 PM OS04_027-027

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 30 5/30/11 3:04:24 PM OS04_029-029

Eric J. Lyman is a writer based in Rome. His website is www.ericjlyman.com

ILLUSTRATION: MED NESS // HTTP://AHMERICARNATION.TUMBLR.COM

9/11 3:01:41 PM OS04_030-031_Graph.indd 31 33

ufo ooi botos

misch- Above video-

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 36 5/30/11 3:04:32 PM OS04_035-035

Melbourne has the understated urban cool of

9/11 3:13:31 PM OS04_036-037_Mapped.indd 3739

9/11 3:16:10 PM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 44 5/30/11 3:04:51 PM

PRINCE — SIGN O’ THE TIMES

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 45 5/30/11 3:04:51 PM

Eating fish twice a week is good for your heart.

www.damanhealth.ae | 800 4 DAMAN (32626)

da_Annual ad Open skies emirates_inflight

EMIRATI ART EMERGES

5/15/11 6:41 PM OS04_045-047_Column.indd 4547

A BRIEF HISTORY OF TORTURED ARTISTS

1571 15 89 1853 1864

190 4 1907 1912 1963

9/11 3:22:59 PM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 50 5/30/11 3:04:59 PM OS04_049-049

ON INFLUENCES ON ARTISTS a Londoner, you can have an identity of

     

9/11 3:32:30 PM OS04_050-051_Peeper.indd 5153

IMAGE: CRISTINA VERONESI

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 54 5/30/11 3:05:05 PM

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 55 5/30/11 3:05:05 PM

Palais Dorotheum, Dorotheergasse 17. A-1010

9/11 3:37:47 PM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd

PRODUCTS 1, 4 AND 5 ARE AVAILABLE AT HARVEY NICHOLS, MALL OF THE EMIRATES.

9/11 4:43:22 PM OS04_056-057_Booty.indd 57 59

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 60 5/30/11 3:05:12 PM OS04_059-059

Off-road motorbiking through

Biagio Chiarolanza, CEO

OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 62 5/30/11 3:05:15 PM OS04_061-061

11 11:21:48 AM OS04_062-070_Picasso.indd 6567

GUERNICA, PAINTED IN 1937

11 11:21:56 AM OS04_029-029_EdsLetter.indd 69 5/30/11 3:05:48 PM

by Diego Velázquez,demanded and their claim on posterity: Fruit

TRAFFIC ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÍÆÈÆÏ«XXXWJBUSBGöDPSH CAPITAL D STUDIO ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÇËÉÉÏ«XXXDBQJUBMETUVEJPDPN

THE JAMJAR ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÇÍÉÆÉ«XXXUIFKBNKBSEVCBJDPN THE THIRD LINE ÙÏÍÇÆÊ®ÉÊÇÇÉÌÍ«XXXUIFUIJSEMJOFDPN Win

9/11 4:26:52 PM '%/%/$&.2SHQ6NLHV[LQGG