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UPS For Cordless Telephones

Cordless telephones are very popular nowadays. But they have a major drawback, i.e. they cannot be operated
during power failure. Therefore usually another ordinary telephone is connected in parallel to the cordless
telephone. This results in lack of secrecy. UPS is a permanent solution to this problem. Since the UPS is meant
only for the cordless telephone, its output power is limited to around 1.5W. This is sufficient to operate most
cordless telephones. as these employ only small capacity adapters (usually 9V/12V, 500mA), to enable the
operation of the circuit and to charge the battery present in the handset. The UPS presently designed is of online
type. Here the inverter is ‘on’ throughout, irrespective of the presence of the AC mains.

When the AC mains is present, the same is converted into DC and fed to the inverter. A part of the mains rectified
output is used to charge the battery. When the mains power fails, the DC supply to the inverter is from the battery
and from this is obtained AC at the inverter output. This is shown in fig.1. The circuit wired around IC CD4047 is
an astable multivibrator operating at a frequency of 50 Hz. The Q and Q outputs of this multivibrator directly drive
power MOSFETS IRF540. The configuration used is push-pull type. The inverter output is filtered and the spikes
are reduced using MOV (metal oxide varistor). The inverter transformer used is an ordinary 9V-0-9V, 1.5A mains
transformer readily available in the market.

Two LEDS (D6 and D7) indicate the presence of


mains/battery. The mains supply (when present) is stepped down, rectified and filtered using diodes D1 through
D4 and capacitor C1. A part of this supply is also used to charge the battery. In place of a single 12V, 4Ah battery,
one may use two 6V, 4Ah batteries (SUNCA or any other suitable brand). The circuit can be easily assembled on a
general-purpose PCB and placed inside a metal box. The two transformers may be mounted on the chassis of the
box. Also, the two batteries can be mounted in the box using supporting clamps. The front and back panel designs
are shown in the Fig. 3. The same circuit can deliver up to 100W, provided the inverter transformer and charging
transformer are replaced with higher current rating transformers, so that the system can be used for some other
applications as well.
500W Low Cost 12V to 220V
Inverter
Attention: This Circuit is using high voltage that is lethal. Please take appropriate precautions

Using this circuit you can convert the 12V dc in to the 220V Ac. In this circuit 4047 is use to generate the square
wave of 50hz and amplify the current and then amplify the voltage by using the step transformer.

How to calculate transformer rating


The basic formula is P=VI and between input output of the transformer we have Power input = Power output
For example if we want a 220W output at 220V then we need 1A at the output. Then at the input we must have at
least 18.3V at 12V because: 12V*18.3 = 220v*1
So you have to wind the step up transformer 12v to 220v but input winding must be capable to bear 20A.

Cheap 12V to 220V Inverter


Even though today’s electrical appliances are increasingly often self-powered, especially the portable ones you
carry around when camping or holidaying in summer, you do still sometimes need a source of 230 V AC - and
while we’re about it, why not at a frequency close to that of the mains? As long as the power required from such a
source remains relatively low - here we’ve chosen 30 VA - it’s very easy to build an inverter with simple, cheap
components that many electronics hobbyists may even already have.

Though it is possible to build a more powerful circuit, the complexity caused by the very heavy currents to be
handled on the low-voltage side leads to circuits that would be out of place in this summer issue. Let’s not forget,
for example, that just to get a meager 1 amp at 230 VAC, the battery primary side would have to handle more
than 20 ADC!. The circuit diagram of our project is easy to follow. A classic 555 timer chip, identified as IC1, is
configured as an astable multivibrator at a frequency close to 100 Hz, which can be adjusted accurately by means
of potentiometer P1.

Circuit diagram:
Cheap 12V to 220V Inverter Circuit Diagram

As the mark/space ratio (duty factor) of the 555 output is a long way from being 1:1 (50%), it is used to drive a
D-type flip-flop produced using a CMOS type 4013 IC. This produces perfect complementary square-wave signals
(i.e. in antiphase) on its Q and Q outputs suitable for driving the output power transistors. As the output current
available from the CMOS 4013 is very small, Darlington power transistors are used to arrive at the necessary
output current. We have chosen MJ3001s from the now defunct Motorola (only as a semi-conductor manufacturer,
of course!) which are cheap and readily available, but any equivalent power Darlington could be used.

These drive a 230 V to 2 × 9 V center-tapped transformer used ‘backwards’ to produce the 230 V output. The
presence of the 230 VAC voltage is indicated by a neon light, while a VDR (voltage dependent resistor) type
S10K250 or S07K250 clips off the spikes and surges that may appear at the transistor switching points. The output
signal this circuit produces is approximately a square wave; only approximately, since it is somewhat distorted by
passing through the transformer. Fortunately, it is suitable for the majority of electrical devices it is capable of
supplying, whether they be light bulbs, small motors, or power supplies for electronic devices.

PCB layout:

PCB Layout For Cheap 12V to 220V Inverter Circuit Diagram

COMPONENTS LIST
Resistors
R1 = 18k?
R2 = 3k3
R3 = 1k
R4,R5 = 1k?5
R6 = VDR S10K250 (or S07K250)
P1 = 100 k potentiometer
Capacitors
C1 = 330nF
C2 = 1000 µF 25V
Semiconductor
T1,T2 = MJ3001
IC1 = 555
IC2 = 4013
Miscellaneous
LA1 = neon light 230 V
F1 = fuse, 5A
TR1 = mains transformer, 2x9V 40VA (see text)
4 solder pins

Note that, even though the circuit is intended and designed for powering by a car battery, i.e. from 12 V, the
transformer is specified with a 9 V primary. But at full power you need to allow for a voltage drop of around 3 V
between the collector and emitter of the power transistors. This relatively high saturation voltage is in fact a
‘shortcoming’ common to all devices in Darlington configuration, which actually consists of two transistors in one
case. We’re suggesting a PCB design to make it easy to construct this project; as the component overlay shows,
the PCB only carries the low-power, low-voltage components.

The Darlington transistors should be fitted onto a finned anodized aluminum heat-sink using the standard
insulating accessories of mica washers and shouldered washers, as their collectors are connected to the metal
cans and would otherwise be short-circuited. An output power of 30 VA implies a current consumption of the order
of 3 A from the 12 V battery at the ‘primary side’. So the wires connecting the collectors of the MJ3001s [1] T1
and T2 to the transformer primary, the emitters of T1 and T2 to the battery negative terminal, and the battery
positive terminal to the transformer primary will need to have a minimum cross-sectional area of 2 mm2 so as to
minimize voltage drop.

The transformer can be any 230 V to 2 × 9 V type, with an E/I iron core or toroidal, rated at around 40 VA.
Properly constructed on the board shown here, the circuit should work at once, the only adjustment being to set
the output to a frequency of 50 Hz with P1. You should keep in minds that the frequency stability of the 555 is
fairly poor by today’s standards, so you shouldn’t rely on it to drive your radio-alarm correctly – but is such a
device very useful or indeed desirable to have on holiday anyway? Watch out too for the fact that the output
voltage of this inverter is just as dangerous as the mains from your domestic power sockets.

So you need to apply just the same safety rules! Also, the project should be enclosed in a sturdy ABS or diecast so
no parts can be touched while in operation. The circuit should not be too difficult to adapt to other mains voltages
or frequencies, for example 110 V, 115 V or 127 V, 60 Hz. The AC voltage requires a transformer with a different
primary voltage (which here becomes the secondary), and the frequency, some adjusting of P1 and possibly minor
changes to the values of timing components R1 and C1 on the 555.

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