Definition:

ewellery (pronounced /dulri/ or /dulri/) or jewelry (see American and British English spelling differences) is a form of personal adornment, manifesting itself as necklaces, rings,brooches, earrings and bracelets. Jewellery may be made from any material, usually gemstones,precious metals or shells. Factors affecting the choice of materials include cultural differences and the availability of the materials. Jewellery may be appreciated because of its material properties, its patterns or for meaningful symbols. Jewellery differs from other items of personal adornment in that it has no other purpose than to look appealing. Items such as belts and handbags are considered to be accessories rather than jewellery. The word jewellery is derived from the word jewel, which was Anglicised from the Old French "jouel" circa the 13th century.[1] Further tracing leads back to the Latin word "jocale", meaning plaything. Jewellery is one of the oldest forms of body adornment; recently-found 100,000-year-old beads made from Nassarius shells are thought to be the oldest known jewellery.[2] Jewellery is sometimes regarded as a way of storing wealth and might also possess some minimal functionality, such as holding a garment together or keeping hair in place. It has from very early times been regarded as a form of personal adornment. The first pieces of jewellery were made from natural materials, such as bone, animal teeth, shell, wood and carved stone. Some jewellery throughout the ages may have specifically been as an indication of a social group. More exotic jewellery is often for wealthier people, with its rarity increasing its value. Due to its personal nature and its indication of social class, some cultures established traditions of burying the dead with their jewellery. Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part, from hairpins to toe rings and many more types of jewellery. While high-quality jewellery is made with gemstones and precious metals, such as silver or gold, there is also a growing demand for art jewellery where design and creativity is prized above material value. In addition, there is the less costly costume jewellery, made from lower value materials and mass-produced. Other variations include wire sculpture(wrap) jewellery, using anything from base metal wire with rock tumbled stone to precious metals and precious gemstones.

Form and function:

Jewellery has been used for a number of reasons:
Currency, wealth display and storage. Functional use (such as clasps, pins & buckles) Symbolic (to show membership or status) Protection (in the form of amulets magical wards) Artistic display.
Kenyan man wearing tribal beads

Currency, wealth display and storage:

Most cultures have at some point had a practice of keeping large amounts of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures move wedding dowries in the form of

jewellery, or create jewellery as a means to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a currency or trade good; an example being the use of slave beads.[citation
needed]

Functional use (such as clasps, pins & buckles):

Many items of jewellery, such as brooches and buckles originated as purely functional items, but evolved into decorative items as their functional requirement diminished.[4]

Symbolic (to show membership or status):

Jewellery can also be symbolic of group membership, as in the case of the Christian crucifix orJewish Star of David, or of status, as in the case of chains of office, or the Western practice ofmarried people wearing a wedding ring.

Protection (in the form of amulets magical wards):

Wearing of amulets and devotional medals to provide protection or ward off evil is common in somecultures; these may take the form of symbols (such as the ankh), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the Khamsa), or glyphs (such as stylized versions of the Throne Verse in Islamic art).[5]

Artistic display:
Although artistic display has clearly been a function of jewellery from the very beginning, the other roles described above tended to take primacy.[citation needed] It was only in the late 19th century, with the work of such masters as Peter Carl Faberg and Ren Lalique, that art began to take primacy over function and wealth.[citation needed] This trend has continued into modern times, expanded upon by artists such asRobert Lee Morris, Ed Levin, and Alberto Repossi.

Materials and methods:

n creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are often used, and they are typically set into precious metals. Alloys of nearly every metal known have been encountered in jewellery - bronze, for example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery usually includes gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, titanium or silver. Most American and European gold jewellery is made of an
Anticlastic forged sterling bracelet

alloy of gold, the purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a number followed by the letter K. American gold jewellery must be of at least 10K purity (41.7% pure gold), (though in the UK the number is 9K (37.5% pure gold) and is typically found up to 18K (75% pure gold). Higher purity levels are less common with alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure gold), and 24 K (99.9% pure gold) being considered too soft for jewellery use in America

and Europe. These high purity alloys, however, are widely used across Asia, the Middle East and Africa.[citation needed] Platinum alloys range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95.0% pure). The silver used in jewellery is usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine silver. In costume jewellery, stainless steel findings are sometimes used.

Bead embroidery design:

ther commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass or enamel; wood, often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal substances such as bone and ivory; natural clay;polymer clay; and even plastics. Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create jewellery that has more of a natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead solder will cause an English Assay office (the building which gives English jewellery its stamp of approval, theHallmark) to destroy the piece.[citation needed] Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass, gemstones, metal, wood, shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery commonly encompasses necklaces, bracelets,earrings, belts and rings. Beads may be large or small, the smallest type of beads used are known as seed beads, these are the beads used for the "woven" style of beaded jewellery. Another use of seed beads is an embroidery technique where seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to create broad collar neck pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a popular type of handwork during the Victorian era is enjoying a renaissance in modern jewellery making. Beading, or beadwork, is also very popular in many African cultures. Advanced glass and glass beadmaking techniques by Murano and Venetian glassmasters developed crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (goldstone), multicoloured glass (millefiori), milk-glass (lattimo) and imitation gemstones made of glass.[citation needed] As early as the 13th century, Murano glass and Murano beads were popular.[citation needed] Silversmiths, goldsmiths, and lapidaries methods include forging, casting, soldering or welding, cutting, carving and "cold-joining" (using adhesives, staples and rivets to assemble parts).[6]

Diamonds:
Diamonds were first mined in India.[7] Pliny may have mentioned them, although there is some debate as to the exact nature of the stone he referred to as Adamas;[8] In 2005, Australia,Botswana, Russia and Canada ranked

among the primary sources of gemstone diamond production.[9][10] The British crown jewels contain the Cullinan Diamond, part of the largest gem-quality rough diamond ever found (1905), at 3,106.75 carats (621.35 g). Now popular in engagement rings, this usage dates back to the marriage of Maximilian I to Mary of Burgundy in 1477.[citation needed] Other gemstones:

Gemstone
Many precious and semiprecious stones are used for jewellery. Among them are:

Amber
Amber, an ancient organic gemstone, is composed of tree resin that has hardened over time. The stone must be at least 1 million years old to be classified as amber, and some amber can be up to 120 million years old.

Amethyst
Amethyst has historically been the most prized gemstone in the quartz family. It is treasured for its purple hue, which can range in tone from light to dark.

Emerald
Emeralds are one of the three main precious gemstones (along with rubies and sapphires) and are known for their fine green to bluish green colour. They have been treasured throughout history, and some historians report that the Egyptians mined emerald as early as 3500 BC.
Spanish emerald and gold pendant at Victoria and Albert Museum.

Jade
Jade is most commonly associated with the colour green, but can come in a number of other colours as well. Jade is closely linked to Asian culture, history, and tradition, and is sometimes referred to as the stone of heaven.

Jasper
Jasper is a gemstone of the chalcedony family that comes in a variety of colours. Often, jasper will feature unique and interesting patterns within the coloured stone. Picture jasper is a type of jasper known for the colours (often beiges and browns) and swirls in the stones pattern.

Quartz
Quartz refers to a family of crystalline gemstones of various colours and sizes. Among the well-known types of quartz are rose quartz (which has a delicate pink colour), and

smoky quartz (which comes in a variety of shades of translucent brown). A number of other gemstones, like Amethyst and Citrine, are also part of the quartz family. Rutilated quartz is a popular type of quartz containing needle-like inclusions.

Ruby
Rubies are known for their intense red colour, and are among the most highly valued precious gemstones. Rubies have been treasured for millennia. In Sanskrit, the word for ruby is ratnaraj, meaning king of precious stones.

Sapphire
The most popular form of sapphire is blue sapphire, which is known for its medium to deep blue colour and strong saturation. Fancy coloured sapphires in various colours are also available. In the United States, blue sapphire tends to be the most popular and most affordable of the three major precious gemstones (emerald, ruby and sapphire).

Turquoise
Turquoise is found in only a few places on earth, and the worlds largest turquoise producing region is the southwest United States. Turquoise is prized for its attractive colour, most often an intense medium blue or a greenish blue, and its ancient heritage. Turquoise is used in a great variety of jewellery styles. It is perhaps most closely associated with southwest and Native American jewellery, but it is also used in many sleek, modern styles. Some turquoise contains a matrix of dark brown markings, which provides an interesting contrast to the gemstones bright blue colour. Some gemstones (like pearls, coral, and amber) are classified as organic, meaning that they are produced by living organisms. Others are inorganic, meaning that they are generally composed of and arise from minerals.[11] Some gems, for example, amethyst, have become less valued as methods of extracting and importing them have progressed. Some man-made gems can serve in place of natural gems, an example is the cubic zirconia, used in place of the diamond.[12]

Metal finishes:

or platinum, gold, and silver jewellery there are many techniques to create finishes. The most common are high-polish, satin/matte, brushed, and hammered. High-polished jewellery is by far the most common and gives the metal the highly-reflective and shiny look. Satin, or matte finish reduces the shine and reflection of the jewellery and is commonly used to accentuate gemstones such as diamonds. Brushed finishes give the jewellery a textured look, and are created by brushing a material (similar to sandpaper) against the metal, leaving 'brush strokes'. Hammered finishes are typically created by using a soft, rounded hammer and hammering the jewellery to give it a wavy texture. An example of gold plated jewellery

Some jewellery is plated to give it a shiny, reflective look or to achieve a desired colour. Sterling silver jewellery may be plated with a thin layer of 0.999 fine silver (a process known as flashing) or may be plated with rhodium or gold. Base metal costume jewellery may also be plated with silver, gold, or rhodium for a more attractive finish.[13]

Impact on society:

ewellery has been used to denote status. In ancient Rome, for instance, only certain ranks could wear rings;[14] Later, sumptuary lawsdictated who could wear what type of jewellery; again based on rank. Cultural dictates have also played a significant role; for example, the wearing of earrings by Western men was considered "effeminate" in the 19th and early 20th centuries. More recently, the display of body jewellery, such as piercings, has become a mark of acceptance or seen as a badge of courage within some groups, but is completely rejected in others. Likewise, the hip hop culture has popularized the slang term bling-bling, which refers to ostentatious display of jewellery by men or women. Conversely, the jewellery industry in the early 20th century launched a campaign to popularize wedding rings for men, which caught on, as well as engagement rings for men, which did not, going so far as to create a false history and claim that the practice had medieval roots. By the mid 1940s, 85% of weddings in the U.S. featured a doublering ceremony, up from 15% in the 1920s.[15] Religion has also played a role: Islam, for instance, considers the wearing of gold by men as a social taboo,[16] and many religions have edicts against excessive display.[17]In Christianity, the New Testament gives injunctions against the wearing of gold, in the writings of the apostles Paul and Peter. In Revelation 17, "the great whore" or false religious system, is depicted as being "decked with gold and precious stones and pearls, having a golden cup in her hand." (Rev. 17:4)

History:
The history of jewellery is a long one, with many different uses among different cultures. It has endured for thousands of years and has provided various insights into how ancient cultures worked.

Early history

he first signs of jewellery came from the people in Africa. Perforated beads made from snail shells have been found dating to 75,000 years ago at Blombos Cave. In Kenya, at Enkapune Ya Muto, beads made from perforated ostrich egg shells have been dated to more than 40,000 years ago. Outside of Africa, the Cro-Magnons had crude necklaces and bracelets of bone, teeth, berries and stone hung on pieces of string or animalsinew, or pieces of carved bone used to secure clothing together. In some cases, jewellery had shell or mother-of-pearl pieces. In southernRussia, carved bracelets made of mammoth tusk have been found. The Venus of Hohle Fels features a perforation at the top, showing that it was intended to be worn as a pendant. Around 7,000 years ago, the first sign of copper jewellery was seen.[4]

Modern

he modern jewellery movement began in the late 1940s at the end of World War II with a renewed interest in artistic and leisurely pursuits. The movement is most noted with works by Georg Jensen and other jewellery designers who advanced the concept of wearable art. The advent of new materials, such as plastics, Precious Metal Clay (PMC) and colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the development of improved pearl harvesting by people such as Mikimoto Kkichi and the development of improved quality artificial gemstones such as moissanite (a diamond simulant), has placed jewellery within the economic grasp of a much larger segment of the population. The "jewellery as art" movement was spearheaded by artisans such as Robert Lee Morris and continued by designers such as Gill Forsbrook in the UK. Influence from other cultural forms is also evident; one example of this is bling-bling style jewellery, popularized by hip-hop and rap artists in the early 21st century. The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as Mokume-gane. The following are innovations in the decades stradling the year 2000: "Mokume-gane, hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic raising, fold-forming, reactive metal anodizing, shell forms, PMC, photoetching, and [use of] CAD/CAM."[37] Artisan jewellery continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession. With more than 17 United States periodicals about beading alone, resources, accessibility and a low initial cost of entry continues to expand production of hand-made adornments. Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at The Metropolitan Museum.[38]

Indian sub-continent:

he Indian subcontinent has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making anywhere since Ramayana and Mahabharata times. While Western traditions were heavily influenced by waxing and waning empires, India enjoyed a continuous development of art forms for some 5000 years.[30] One of the first to start jewellery making were the peoples of the Indus Valley Civilization. By 1,500 BC the peoples of the Indus Valley were creating gold earrings and necklaces, bead necklaces and metallic bangles. Before 2,100 BC, prior to the period when metals were widely used, the largest jewellery trade in the Indus Valley region was the bead trade. Beads in the Indus Valley were made using simple techniques. First, a bead maker would need a rough stone, which would be bought from an eastern stone trader. The stone would then be placed into a hot oven where it would be heated until it turned deep red, a colour highly prized by people of the Indus Valley. The red stone would then be chipped to the right size and a hole drilled through it with primitive drills. The beads were then polished. Some beads were also painted with designs. This art form was often passed down through family; children of bead makers often learnt how to work beads from a young age. Jewellery in the Indus Valley was worn predominantly by females, who wore numerous clay or shell bracelets on their wrists. They were often shaped like doughnuts and painted black. Over time, clay bangles were discarded for more durable ones. In India today, bangles are made out of metal or glass. Other pieces that women frequently wore were thin bands of gold that would be worn on the forehead, earrings,

primitive brooches, chokers and gold rings. Although women wore jewellery the most, some men in the Indus Valley wore beads. Small beads were often crafted to be placed in men and womens hair. The beads were about one millimetre long. A female skeleton (presently on display at the National Museum, New Delhi, India) wears a carlinean bangle (a bracelet) on her left hand. India was the first country to mine diamonds, with some mines dating back to 296 BC. India traded the diamonds, realising their valuable qualities. This trade almost vanished 1,000 years after Christianity grew as a religion, as Christians rejected the diamonds which were used in Indian religious amulets. Along with Arabians from the Middle East restricting the trade, Indias diamond jewellery trade lulled. Today, many of the jewellery designs and traditions are still used and jewellery is commonplace in Indian ceremonies and weddings.[32]

Bangladesh History:

he art & craft of fine quality jewelry manufacturing are deeply rooted in the traditional heritage and history of Bangladesh. It was however in the Moughal period that the artisan class of goldsmiths arose to attain a distinct status in the subcontinent. The most famous among the various jewelry types that emerged during the times of the Moughals include, Minakari, Kundan, Polki, and Nauratan, etc.Before British period, more 6000 jewellery shops were emerged in Islampur, Tati Bazaar and Shakhari Bazaar.Presently, metropolitan cities of Dhaka and Chittagong are the major hubs of jewelry manufacturing. There are more than thirty major cities and nearly three hundred smaller cities/towns where jewelry manufacturing and trading clusters cater to domestic demand. In addition, there are at least 45,000 villages where jewelrs operate as single-shop, manufacturing and selling units to meet the demand of rural population. Bangladeshs gems and jewelry sector is often described as a cottage industry, a small and medium enterprise, with four- to five-person workshops crafting pieces by hand or with outdated machinery. Most manufacturers cannot cater to international markets, which prefer 14 to 18 karat gold, not the 21, 22 or 24 karats popular domestically. Gems and jewelry have always held a magical appeal. They have been the sign of power, prestige and wealth. Women of this sub-continent have always been the biggest buyers. The export of gems and jewelry has also gone up substantially. Entry of Bangladeshi exporters in some of the developed markets has also encouraged the local jewelers to introduce their branded jewelry. Bangladesh's main export markets are USA, the Gulf region and the UK. Bangladesh mostly exports ethnic designs and hand-made jewelry. Lately export of machine made jewelry has also increased.

Body modification

ewellery used in body modification is usually plain; the use of simple silver studs, rings and earrings predominates. Common jewellery pieces such as earrings, are themselves a form of body modification, as they are accommodated by creating a small hole in the ear. Padaung women in Myanmar place large golden rings around their necks. From as early as 5 years old, girls are introduced to their first neck ring. Over the years, more rings are

added. In addition to the twenty-plus pounds of rings on her neck, a woman will also wear just as many rings on her calves too. At their extent, some necks modified like this can reach 10-15 inches long; the practice has obvious health impacts, however, and has in recent years declined from cultural norm to tourist curiosity.[39] Tribes related to the Paduang, as well as other cultures throughout the world, use jewellery to stretch their earlobes, or enlarge ear piercings. In the Americas, labretshave been worn since before first contact by Innu and

A Kayan girl in Northern Thailand.

First Nations peoples of the northwest coast.[40] Lip plates are worn by the African Mursi and Sara people, as well as some South American peoples. In the late 20th century, the influence of modern primitivism led to many of these practices being incorporated into western subcultures. Many of these practices rely on a combination of body modification and decorative objects; thus keeping the distinction between these two types of decoration blurred. In many cultures, jewellery is used as a temporary body modifier, with in some cases, hooks or even objects as large as bike bars being placed into the recipient's skin. Although this procedure is often carried out by tribal or semi-tribal groups, often acting under a trance during religious ceremonies, this practise has seeped into western culture. Many extreme-jewellery shops now cater to people wanting large hooks or spikes set into their skin. Most often, these hooks are used in conjunction with pulleys to hoist the recipient into the air. This practice is said to give an erotic feeling to the person and some couples have even performed their marriage ceremony whilst being suspended by hooks.[39]

Jewellery market
According to a recent KPMG study[41] the largest jewellery market is the United States with a market share of 30.8%, Japan, India and China and the Middle East each with 8 9% and Italy with 5%. The authors of the study predict a dramatic change in market shares by 2015, where the market share of the United States will have dropped to around 25%, and China and India will increase theirs to over 13%. The Middle East will remain more or less constant at 9%, whereas Europe's and Japan's marketshare will be halved and become less than 4% for Japan, and less than 3% for the biggest individual European countries: Italy and the UK.

Jewellery Marketing Process in Our Country:

here are no organized jewellery companies in Bangladesh. So the marketing process or steps are quite different here. The jewellery marketing process are mentioned in the following:

Collecting Process:
Gold does not directly import from any country. Gold are collects through many ways:-

Hajj period:
When people go to Saudi Arabia in order to take Holy Hajj and Umrah they bring Gold Ornament. It is one of the most traditional ways to bring gold ornament.

Border area unlawfully:

Sometime jewellery shops owner collect gold and gold made ornament through border area in an illegal way.

When come from abroad:

When people came from abroad they brought some small amount of gold ornament. Then jewellery shops owner collect these gold ornament from them (people who brought ornament).

Through smuggling:
Sometime, jewellery shops owner collect gold through smuggling in border area or through airport.

Making & Designing Process:

After collecting, gold, diamond or other precious stones are sent to the factory. The making and designing process is as follows:

Melting:
To make any kind of ornament craftsman first melt the gold, silver

Shaping:
Melted gold or silver are then keep in the proper shape for shaping the ornament.

Designing:
After shaping, craftsman design the ornament according to the customer needs and wants.

Polishing:
Finally after polishing, the ornament is prepared for sale.

Fixed up the Price:

Gold & Silver made Ornaments price are determined by their weight. Price does vary for design. Goldsmiths wage do not added to the original price some-times. On the hand, Diamond made ornaments price are determined by their rarity, purity, brightness, how they were cut & polished.

Sales Promotion:
There are many ways of advertising such as:

Print Media: Newspaper, Magazine. Electronic Media: Web page, Television, Radio Others: Bill board.

Retailing:
The retailing jewelry shops are highly fragmented. There are nearly 50,000 stores engaged in jewelry retailing.

The work done by Bangladesh Jewellery Samity:

To sell gold ornament to the final customers Bangladesh Jewellery Samity does some important works which are mentioned in below: 1. Deliver Golds Lab test report. 2. Determine gold quality. 3. Determine gold selling price.

Jewelry
Bridal Jewelry Watches Fashion Jewelry Precious Stone

Consumers:
We have not only domestic customers but also foreign customers. What kind of jewels people like/consumers like necklace:

Precious Metal 15% 30% 15% 18% 22%

Aged old women: Necklace, bangle, earring. Young women: Chain, ring, bracelet, made of diamond and white gold. Foreigners: Thin necklace, bracelet, small jewels, locket, ring, etc. Criteria that are wanted by the consumers:
The consumers were to rank the luxury jewelry designers based on 4 criteria: 1. 2. 3. 4. Superior quality Uniqueness and exclusivity Social status and Excellent customer service

Bangladeshi Jewellery Markets Overview:

angladeshi jewelry market overview can be described by dividing into following two terms

#Yesterdays condition of jewelry market of Bangladesh and # Todays condition of jewelry market of Bangladesh

There are available change are occurred in jewelry market in Bangladesh in recent years. It had to be changed cause of its possibility as a potential income source.

Branded Shops:
In previous time where there are many unbranded shops or company in Bangladesh now specially in early years now they are becoming or became branded shops or company for the demand of time or the customers interest. Like present in Bangladesh the famous name of branded shops or company are Apon jewelers, Amin jewelers, Al Amin jewelers, Venus jewelers, city jewelers etc. They provide customers the various types of designable and fashionable jewelry. By which they provide customer value and by providing fashionable jewelry they retaining their customer. Here is a chart of renowned shops and their owners name Countrys Renowned Jewelry Companies in short: Apan Jewelers Abdul Ahad 1982 6(with Constructing) Venus Jewelers GangaCharan Malakar 1973 One 5 Amin Jewelers Kazi Sirazul Islam 1966 5

Founder Founding Year Branch

Types of Jewellery Ornament:

There is also a changed occurred in the metal of by which the jewelry made of. Now-adays, consumers like gold & diamond made jewellery instead of gold & silver made jewellery. In early stage or we can say in early years people were very fond of wearing silver and gold jewelry ornaments, but the this time has gone now the people are very much interested to wear gold and diamond made ornaments. We collected information from young generation people to determine that in which metal attracted them for jewelry ornaments. Because the jewelry made from gold and diamond are really looking precious and fashionable ornaments can be easily made.

Investment:
Now we can see that here is one of the biggest distinctions between today and yesterday jewelry market. There where the owner of the jewelry business man only invest capital to their business to conduct, but now they are really concerned about the fashion they know that only more investment for the business is not enough to attract the customer, they have to concern about the fashion and cope pace with the todays generations choice. Cause today customer wants not only precious but also fashionable ornaments. Thats why a new dimension has been added to the business of jewelry for conducting successful business market. However To build a small diamond factory it needs to invest minimum 5 cores taka at primary level. Then it needs more than 100 cores taka to

extend factories extent. But there need 500 cores taka to build up a large factory. On the other hand , to start a jewellery shop at Baitul Mukarram market (which is the largest market of jewellery in Bangladesh)for one shop minimum needs to invest 35 lakh or may have a capital of 100 vhori gold at least.

Fashion and Design:

Today, wearing ornament is become fashion. Today people are very fashionable specially the young generation who are always aware about their fashion. Now-a-days, women wear small fashion ornament instead of traditional Ornament. They mostly prefer fine & acute designed ornament made of gold, diamond, white diamond and other precious stones. They also prefer both hand and machine ornament. The age of traditional jewelry has gone and gone forever although we see some people have now also little interest on traditional jewelry but if we see the young generation we will find that there is no existence of tradition but fashion. Everyone is conscious about his or her fashion. In any kind of shops of jewelry the customer whoever he may choose or find the latest design or fashion.

Season:
The season is one of the important factors for jewelry business although everyone thinks that there is no particular season for this kind of business. But what information is collected that there is a season for business which can be the Marriages and festival season like Eid, Puja or others festival occasion and November- January months of the year .In these season the shop owners or the business organization advertize their products in many ways to attract the customer and make sure that they can provide the higher customer value. They use the ways like television, papers, radio etc.

Wages:
There is a one of the matter of sad that the goldsmith who makes the ornaments and others jewelry things for the customers depending on the customer choice they are not well paid in others word it can be said that their wages is not sufficient for them. Wages are given as one Anna per vhori which is not enough for them. Actually the paying system of them is really different from others.

Present rate:
The rate of gold increasing day by day for international market, it really influences the consumer buying decision. For the increasing rate of gold the customer now dont want to buy the jewellery. Here is a chart which shows the rate of gold. Gold selling rate fixes by Bangladesh Jewellers Society as follows:

Carat
22 Carat 21 Carat

Gram
3,260 Tk. 3,115 Tk.

Vhori
38,024 Tk. 36,333 Tk.

18 Carat Old

2,775 Tk. 2,160 Tk.

32,367 Tk. 25,194 Tk.

Worlds Gold Rate Increasing rate Graph:

Price
1400 1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020 Price

(Per ounce) Year Price

1973 $98.00 1980 $760.00 1999 $253.40 2008 $712.50 2010 $1300.07

we see that in the year 1973 the rate of gold per ounce was $98.00 and in sequence in the year 1980, price $760.00, 1999 price $253.40, 2008 price $712.50, and in 2010 $1300.07, in this chart we can see that the rate of gold was in increasing stage but after the year of 1980s it became falling situation for several reasons up to the year of 1999. And the price rate will be at increased way it is not need to express.

Import and Export:

Now, come to the export and import matter which is very important though our raw materials for making the jewelry are very limited, our country made export to others country here is a report which is collected from Export Promotion Bauru. Export Promotion Bauru Kawran Bazaar, Dhaka Statement of Monthly Export (Thousand in Taka)

H.S Code

Commodities

2009

July-March 2008-09
729

JulyMarch 2009-10
838 297 1915

71.13

Jewelry Diamond Diamond 297(Feb.) 1618(May)

13313 13313

Note: (1) The above figures are provisional and subject to revision. (2) The above figures include Tk. 197.81 Core as local sale for May, 2009. Source: (1) ASYCUDA++. NBR, Dhaka. (2) Land Custom Station. 1.00 US$=July-May 2009-10 Tk. 69.17 1.00 US$=July-May 2008-09 Tk. 68.78

In this chart we see that the commodities which is supplied to others country from our country is mainly diamond made jewelry and it is shown that in the time year 2008 2009 and 2009 2010 and in the month of July to march it was occurred. it will be very good for our country if we can continue to do this job. Because we have manpower and we have efficient worker who can make the jewelry one of the best way. Here is a repot of importing gold or other materials which is used to make the jewelry. The list shows the countries name and the season in which the import occurred. Bangladesh imports mainly the gold and diamond by which the goldsmith makes the various kind of jewelry as the choice of the customer. In this chart we often realize that we mainly import from china and its neighbored countries cause of their lower cost.

The chart is given below:

Import Payments by Commodities and Countries/ Territories.
(Taka in Thousands)

Commodity
National or Cultured Pearls, Precious or SemiPrecious Stones, Precious, Metals Clad with Precious Metal and Articles, There of Imitation Jewelry coin.

Country
Australia Belgium Canada China Republic France Hong Kong

2008-09
27824 2398 31703 Peoples 53688 289551 1491

2007-08

7763

49790

239

India Japan Korea Republic Malaysia Pakistan Singapore Thailand U.A.E U.S.A Total

67182 58 24 197 836

62822 3354

5754 69 1427

526

2705 190

278 475756

6403 140516

Present Condition of Buying & Selling:

Before end of the nineteenth decade buying and selling condition was so good. But now gradually it lost its market with tradition also. The main cause can be the high price of the material and jewellery and thats why the interest of the people for jewellery is decreasing day by day and it also a matter of important that todays people losing their interest because of lacking of security. Previously, jewellery sold on commodity basis with labour charges. Now, jewellery sold on per piece basis.

Competition:
At the present world is a competitive world in this time anyone can think that in the business of jewellery there is no any competition but the idea is wrong. In the world of competition how can it be far from the competition, yes there is also a particular thing for competition, competition only for design quality of the jewellery. Which company can make the fashionable and designable which can attract the customer they can exist in the market of jewellery business?

Problems and constraints:

N
view.

aturally, in our country, we see that potential sector does not flourish too much. Jewelry sector is such a sector. Here we find many problems in three points of

Owners Desk:
When we talked with some of the jewelry shops owners, they told many problems regarding this sector. Here I described some of the points:

1. No rules and regulations:

Even today, we dont make any import and export policy for this sector. But our neighbored countries such as India, Pakistan, and Sri-Lanka all of them have specific import and export policy.

2. Limited resources:
Inheritably, we have no mine of gold or others previous metals. Thats why we have to import raw materials from abroad in illegal way.

3. Negligence of government:
It is one of the potential sectors of our country. But unfortunately, it seems that government does not pay any heed to this sector.

4. Lack of security provided by the government:

Our Jewellery Shops owner suffer insecurity problem when they operate their business. But what we see that Government does not ensure sufficient security to operate this type of business.

5. Bangladesh Jewelry Association plays no effective role:

Even today Bangladesh Jewelry Association does not create any pressure to the government for making import and export policy. They just run only meeting and seminar.

6. Insufficient capital and loan problem:

To develop our agricultural and small industry sectors government and others bank provide sufficient loan. Even authority makes some loan package too. But our Banks do not provide any loan package system such as SME for promoting this type of Business.

7. Lack of Technology:
We are in lack of technology. We need to import cutting and polish machinery, scales and others essential machines.

Workers Desk:
When we visited Tati bazaar, we saw many problems facing by the workers. The workers also informed many problems to us. Here we mention some of these:

1. Minimum Wages:
Goldsmiths are paid too little. They owed only one anna(1 Vhori=16 anna) per vhori in making ornament. It means they are paid by work basis. And craftsman or goldsmith does not provide any bonus to enjoy special occasions.

2. No time limitations:
Goldsmiths or Craftsmen do not have any time limitations for their working time. Even sometimes they have to work whole day and night long. It seems until their ornament making are complete they have to work.

3. Suffocating environment:
Workers working environment must be good at look, hygienic and well prepared. But unfortunately our craftsman and goldsmiths working environment is so dirty, unhygienic and suffocating.

4. Domination:
It is unfortunate that most of the time workers are dominated by the owners of the factory. Such as pays little wage or does not pay any attention to the workers problem.

5. Accommodation problem:
You people cant imagine how acute this accommodation problem. You see that there is some picture. Workers have to sleep and work in these same places.

6. Seasonal work:
This business sector now becomes more seasonal. So the workers/ goldsmiths do not have much work.

Buyers Desk:
Now a days buyers are facing many problems in buying jewelry ornament. Here some of these problems are mentioned below:

1. High Price:
Day by day, the price of silver, gold & diamond is increasing. So customer does not buy much ornaments as they did before. It seems that prices are out of their reach.

2. No after sales solutions:

Sometime to gather new and potential consumers, Sellers provide some after sales facility such as warranty and guaranty. But, in this sector sellers do not provide any after sales solutions. So sometimes buyers are faced many problems.

3. Limited scope of choice:

There are only one diamond factory. Which is situated at Tongi in Gazipur names Brilliant Jewellery Ltd.. So, foreign buyers do not feel interest to come here.

4. Limited knowledge:
Sellers or Jewelry society does not bring out any report or article for introducing new design and models jewelry ornament and market conditions.

Recommendations for changing situation:

hat was founded in the problems and constraints section that the problems and constraints of this sector is of three dimensional but surprisingly it is founded that the solution of these problems and constraints are two dimensional. Actually there are two groups of people who are actually capable of solving these problems.
1. Steps should be taken by the Government and 2. Steps should be taken by the Owner

Steps should be taken by the Government:

For the flourishing of any sector government plays the vital role. So govt. should be in front to solve this sector.

1. Become aware of this sector:

First of all, government should be conscious about the sector. Most of time we have observed that government has myopia in potential business sectors. So first government should think and recognize potentials and possibilities.

2. Setting rules and regulations:

It is more than 200 years that the jewellery marketing process is going on in our country but matter of sorrow that there is no settled rules regarding this sector, so government

provides complete rules and regulation is needed, today its the burning need of the sector.

3. Importing raw materials and instruments:

Our goldsmiths are working with very many old and traditional tools. If they get raw materials they can produce much better product and increase production. So government should make raw materials and instruments available.

4. Making the import and export policy:

It is not authorized to import or export any kind of jewellery. But there is huge possibility of exporting. Only an easy exporting policy can make the possibility in reality.

5. Banking help:
No special banking facilities are provided to the jewellery business people. Jewellery business owner has to take personal loan to solve their financial problems. But it is a great problem for the business owner. Again central bank can play a great role to import essential raw materials of jewellery.

6. Should provide proper security:

Jewellery marketer faces a lots of security problem. So very often we see the news of jewellery shop robbery. They can be protected by the government security force.

7. Establishing training and research centre:

To improve in this sector proper training should be provided to the jewellery workers and to improve a quality research centre is really important.

8. Stop dumping:
Recently our jewellery marketers are facing a new problem of dumping. Now India, China is dumping a huge amount of cheap jewellery. As a result our local produced jewellery losing its market. Here government should be strict about this dumping.

Steps should be taken by the Owners: 1. Organizing a strong association:

To protect their interest as well as consumers, the businessmen should build up an effective association. What is prevailing today is just a donkey and that is Bangladesh Jewellery Association.

2. Importing raw materials and resources legal way:

It is a tendency to import raw materials and resources in illegal way. The businessmen acquire things in a unlawful way because it is cheap. But it should not be done. They should follow the proper rules regarding importing raw materials and resources.

3. Providing proper facilities to the worker:

Satisfied workers are the most important fact any business organization. But it is a matter of great sorrow that the condition and the facilities for the workers are very poor. But it is prerequisite of the flourishing of the sector is the development of the workers of the sector.

4. Job security of the workers:

The workers of this sector are always is the tension of losing their job and sometimes it is seasonal and contractual job. As a result the workers are not willing to work properly. So owner should ensure the job security of the workers.

5. Forming a positive syndicate:

Business syndicate usually do not do anything but storing and increasing price. Here owner should form a syndicate which will make sure the interest of the owner as well as the consumer.

n 1996, with the direct supervision of Governor of Bangladesh Bank and with EPBs head Faisal Ahmed, 7/8 jewellery organizations representatives form a team. They joined exhibition in Bahrain, Dubai & Japan with their product. They were highly praised by Japans Jewellery Association. But unfortunately these export invitation process hampered after the change of government and governor.

What president, vice president and other owners want in making rules & regulations for import & export:
1. Government must provide permission to import and export gold and diamond. 2. Like India, they want to buy gold from Bangladesh Bank with the help of government. 3. They also want to buy gold from abroad personally. 4. They also want 200 vhori Hand carry permission. That means when they go to abroad they wanted to take 200 vhori jewellery ornaments to show their potential buyers. And when they return from abroad they wanted to bring solid Gold and diamond. 5. They also want permission from government to organize jewels exhibition for attracting foreign buyers.

Possibilities of the sector:

Jewellery sector is one of the potential sectors of our country. There are many possibilities of this sector which is mentioned in the below:

1. Skilled labor:
It is a great matter that our craftsmen and goldsmiths are so much skilled than Indian labor. They are working many foreign countries such India, European and Gulf countries, USA, Middle East and Pacific areas. All most 80% of the diamond cuttings, polishing and designer are Bangladeshi.

2. Best quality product:

Our jewellery ornament quality is good and attractive that they attract the interest of many foreign buyers and customers.

3. Unique and innovative style:

Our craftsmen and goldsmiths are making some unique and innovative stylish product. Thats why they attract the interest of many foreign buyers and customers.

4. Scope of expansion:
If government provides necessary facilities, there is a great possibility of expand this sectors. Then new entrepreneur (need about 100 new entrepreneurs) will also come forward for the development of this sector.

5. Readymade buyer and Potential buyer in the foreign countries:

European and Gulf countries, USA, Middle East and Pacific areas show their interest to buy our jewellery ornament. They also praise our product quality.

6. Huge possibilities of exporting:

If there are many diamond factories, we will have huge possibility of exporting. We have a great scope of export $800 ornament in a fiscal year.

APPENDIX PHOTO CREDITS: KENYAN MAN WEARING TRIBAL BEADS-----1 ANTICLASTIC FORGED STERLING BRACELET-----2 BEAD EMBROIDERY DESIGN-----3 DIAMONDS-----3 SPANISH EMERALD AND GOLD PENDANT AT VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM-----4 AN EXAMPLE OF GOLD PLATED JEWELLERY -----5 PERFORATED BEADS-----6 A KAYAN GIRL IN NORTHERN THAILAND-----9 MANAGER OF VENUS JEWELLERS-----18 PRESIDENT OF BAITUL MOKARRAM BABOSHAYEE GROUP-----18 WORKPLACE OF TATI BAZAAR-----19 WORKPLACE OF SUMON BARMON-----20

REFERENCES:
WWW.INTRACEN.ORG WWW.JEWELRYMARKETINGSOLUTIONS.COM WWW.WIKIPEDIA.COM WWW.PROTHOM -ALO.COM

BANGLADESH JEWELRY ASSOCIATIONS ARTICLE ENCYCLOPEDIA & BRITANNICAS ARTICLES HTTP://EN.WIKIPEDIA .ORG/WIKI/JEWELRYHISTORY PRINCIPLES OF MARKETING, PHILIP KOTLER & GRAY ARMSTRONG BANGLADESH BANKS IMPORT AND EXPORT REPORT 2009