Technoguide for Ampalaya Production in Ilocos Norte

I. Introduction Bittergourd (Momordica charantia Linn.), ampalaya in Tagalog or parya in Iloko, is one of the most important commercial and backyard fruit vegetables in the country because of its nutritive and medicinal values. The fruits contain calcium, phosphorus, iron, carbohydrates, and vitamins A, B, and C. Advanced commercial cultivation of ampalaya used to be concentrated in Regions III (Central Luzon) and IV (Southern Tagalog). Although Ilocos Norte had the 5th biggest harvested area in 2001 (BAS), ampalaya production was largely traditional yielding only about 6 t/ha. Recent claims that ampalaya helps cure diabetes have boosted market demand and encouraged many Ilocano farmers to modernize its cultivation. Two types of ampalaya are being grown in Ilocos Norte. One is the long, dark green, and less warty type; the other is the short, warty, and more bitter pinakbet type. The crop can be planted anytime of the year. However, it is best to plant in July and August (wet season) for better price, and in October (dry season) to take advantage of available soil moisture. II. Varieties It pays to select varieties that are high-yielding, early-maturing, tolerant to pests and diseases, adapted to local climatic conditions, and easy-to-sell. The following varieties were tested in Currimao, Ilocos Norte from wet season 2005 to dry season 2007:
Variety Galaxy F1 Bonito F1 Sta. Rita Sta. Fe F1 Makiling Mayon F1 Maturity 45-50 DAS 40-45 DAS 55-60 DAS 48-53 DAS 55-60 DAS 50-55 DAS Fruit Characteristics dark green, 33 cm long improved native, dark green, only 15 cm long light green, 28 cm long light green, 34 cm long light green, 33 cm long light green, 33 cm long Other Characteristics tolerant to virus tolerant to virus, early-maturing, high yielder, best for pinakbet tolerant to downy mildew tolerant to downy mildew strongly tolerant to downy mildew tolerant to virus and downy mildew

DAS Days after sowing

Bonito F1

Galaxy F1

Mayon F1

Sta. Rita

III. Land Preparation Plow clayey and weedy fields at least twice to help eliminate weeds, hibernating insect pests, and soil-borne diseases. The best time to plow the field is when a ball does not form when the soil is squeezed by hand and only a thin film of the soil sticks to the fingers and palm. Plow at a depth of 15-20 cm. Harrow twice to break the clods and level the field. A well-pulverized soil promotes good soil aeration and enhances root formation.

land preparation using a moldboard plow

IV. Raising Seedlings

Ampalaya can be direct seeded or transplanted. Transplanting is recommended for hybrid seeds, and for off-season planting to minimize the exposure of young plants to unfavorable weather conditions and to reduce plant mortality. Follow these steps in raising seedlings in plastic trays. a) Pre-germinating the seeds: The ampalaya seed coat is hard and waxy. It takes 7-8 days before the seed germinates. Emergence can be hastened by pre-germinating the seeds. An area of 1000 m2 (tenth of a hectare) requires about 120 g of seeds. One gram (g) contains around 5 seeds.
ampalaya seeds

(1) Cut the longer tip of the seed with a nail cutter to facilitate absorption of water.

(2) Soak the seeds in water for 30 minutes.

cutting the seed tip

soaking seeds

(3) Spread the seeds in a wet, clean cotton cloth for a more uniform absorption of moisture, and roll the cloth.

(4) Incubate in a safe dark place until the radicles come out. Radicles will come out in 2-3 days.

wrapping seeds

pre- seeds

(5) Wash the seeds everyday to prevent fungal growth. Seeds germinate easily at 250C to 300C (normal room temperature). Germination will be longer when temperature is low or cold. b) Preparing the sowing materials: (1) Prepare the following sowing medium. 2 parts rice straw compost 4 parts carbonized rice hull (CRH) 1 part processed chicken manure (PCM)
compost CRH
sowing materials

PCM

(2) Mix the materials thoroughly.

(3) Fill the holes of the tray with the medium, and slightly compact it using your palm.

mixing the medium using a garden shovel

filling up seedling trays with the sowing medium

Use a seedling tray with 100 or 104 holes. The volume of medium in each hole contains enough nutrients to sustain the seedling until transplanting time.

seedling tray

c) Sowing: (1) Sow one pre-germinated seed per hole of the plastic tray at a depth of 1.5 cm. (2) Cover the seeds with enough medium. (3) Water the seeds using a sprinkler with fine droplets.
pre-germinated seeds

(4) Cover the tray with old newspaper, plastic sack, or rice straw to maintain soil moisture and temperature. (5) Remove the cover as soon as the seeds have sprouted.

covering trays

d) Caring for and maintaining the seedlings: (1) Place the trays on the platforms of a simple nursery. (2) Roof the nursery with transparent plastic sheets during the rainy season; plastic nets or chicken wire during the dry season. The nursery minimizes exposure of the seedlings to extreme hot weather, heavy rains, and protects them from stray
seedling nursery

animals. (3) Water early in the morning and afternoon. Apply less water during rainy and cloudy days. The seedlings weaken and elongate with too much water.

ampalaya seedlings

V. Construction of Planting Beds and Furrows a) With plastic mulch Construct two planting beds 0.5 m wide and 20 cm high each. Provide a 4.0 m space between them for the trellis. Provide 0.5 m space between the two adjacent beds (refer to Fig.1) to serve as canal for furrow irrigation, or drainage for excess water during rainy season.
planting beds

Raised bed w/ plastic mulch Furrow

4.0 m (for trellis)

4.0 m (for trellis)

1.0 m

0.5 m 0.5 m

0.5 m

Fig.1 Field layout when using plastic mulch

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b) Conventional method (no mulch) Construct a pair of furrows (dry months) or ridges (rainy months) 3.5 m apart. Construct the succeeding pairs of furrows/ridges parallel to the first, and provide a 0.5 m space between each pair of furrows/ridges (refer to Figures 2 & 3).
Planting ridge

Furrow for irrigation

4.0 m (for trellis)

4.0 m (for trellis)

1.0 m

0.5 m

Fig. 2 Field layout for conventional method using ridges

Planting furrow

4.0 m (for trellis)

4.0 m (for trellis)

1.0 m

0.5 m

Fig. 3 Field layout for conventional method using furrows 6

VI. Fertilizer Application Collect soil samples for analysis at the nearest Soils Laboratory. Apply fertilizers based on the results of the analysis. Otherwise, use the following recommended rates: a) With plastic mulch Basal Apply the following fertilizers every 10 linear meters of the planting bed: 1 kg PCM or any commercial organic fertilizer 1 kg ammonium phosphate (16-20-0) 0.40 kg ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) 0.20 kg muriate of potash (0-0-60) Cover the fertilizers with soil, or mix them thoroughly with the soil in the bed.

applying fertilizer

Sidedress Drench 170 ml (1 small can of sardines) of fertilizer solution per hill. Prepare the drenching solution by thoroughly dissolving the fertilizer in water. Refer to the table below for the recommended schedule, and source and amount of fertilizer to apply. Time of Application Drenching Solution 3, 7, 11, and 15 weeks after transplanting 4 tbsp urea (46-0-0)/15 L water (WAT) 5, 9, 13, and 17 WAT 4 tbsp muriate of potash (0-0-60)/15 L water b) Conventional method (unmulched) Basal Apply every 10 linear meters: 1 kg PCM or any commercial organic fertilizer 1 kg 16-20-0 (ammonium phosphate) Cover the fertilizers with soil or mix them thoroughly with the soil in the bed. Sidedress Sidedress at two points 20 cm away from the base of the plant until 6 WAT. At 9 and 12 WAT, dibble the fertilizer at the midpoint (50 cm) between plants along

the rows. From 15 WAT onwards, broadcast the fertilizer between adjacent furrows or ridges, then irrigate. Refer to the table below for the recommended schedule and source and amount of fertilizer to apply. Time of Application 3, 9, and 15 WAT 6, 12, and 18 WAT Amount of Fertilizer 10 g (2 tbsp) urea /hill; or 100 g (20 tbsp)/10 linear meters 10 g ( tbsp) muriate of potash/hill; or 100 g (5 tbsp) muriate of potash)/10 linear meters

For both mulched and unmulched ampalaya, apply at least 20 kg compost and 3 kg CRH/10 linear meters to improve soil fertility, aeration, and moisture retention. . VII. Plastic Mulching The use of plastic mulch to cover the beds is an improved technology for ampalaya production. It controls weeds, preserves soil moisture, prevents soil erosion, minimizes leaching of fertilizers, and reflects sunlight to repel insect pests hiding under the leaves. The net income from ampalaya with plastic mulch of one farmer-partner in Currimao, Ilocos Norte during wet season 2006 was higher by 30% than unmulched ampalaya. Mulched plants had better crop stand and yielded higher.

without plastic mulch

with plastic mulch

(a) Setting up the plastic mulch: (1) Cut the material lengthwise to make 0.6 m wide sheets. (2) Stretch the plastic mulch over the planting bed, with the silver color on top.

setting up mulch

(3) Fasten the edges of the plastic mulch to the soil with bamboo slats spaced 1 m apart If bamboo slats are not available, cover its edges with soil using a rake, or by passing a moldboard plow near the edges.
fastening mulch

(b) Making the planting holes: (1) Measure 1.0 m planting distance along the center of the plastic mulch and mark the spots. (2) Make the holes following any of these three ways: Using a serrated-lipped tin can: Cut the lip of a 7-10 cm diameter tin can with metal scissors to form 1-cm long saw-like edges. Push the can on the marked planting spots of the plastic sheet, serrated side down.
making holes with serrated tin can

Using a hot tin can: Punch small holes using a nail at the sides and bottom of a 7-10 cm diameter tin can. Attach a wooden or bamboo handle. Fill the can with burning charcoal. The small holes ventilate the charcoal to keep it burning.
punching holes with a hot tin can

Using a cutter: Cut intersecting lines 7-10 cm long to form + or X at the marked planting spots. During

making holes with a cutter

transplanting, fold up the 4 flaps to form square planting holes. VIII. Transplanting Flood the planting beds or furrows two days before transplanting to dissolve the fertilizers applied and cool down the soil under the plastic mulch. (1) Transplant 13 to 15 day-old seedlings, which should now have 2-3 true leaves. Water thoroughly the seedlings in the trays to facilitate pulling and avoid root injury. Do not allow the seedlings to stay too long in the tray and overgrow. Old seedlings will have poor root development.
seedlings for transplanting

(2) Transplant only one seedling per hole preferably in the afternoon. A 1000 m2 area (10th of a hectare) requires 440 seedlings, mulched or unmulched. In mulched beds, water the transplants with a sprinkler immediately after transplanting; in furrows and ridges, irrigate hill to hill with an irrigation hose. IX. Irrigation Irrigate once a week during the dry season, and as needed during the wet season. Irrigate every after fertilizer application. X. Trellising Ampalaya grows best with overhead trellis about 1.8 m high. The trellis must be taller than the farmer to facilitate harvesting. Construct the trellis two weeks after transplanting, as tendrils start to grow.

one seedling per hole

ampalaya on trellis 10

Erect madre de cacao or ipil-ipil posts at the 4 outer ends of the pair of planting beds. Make the frame of the overhead trellis using bamboo poles. Reinforce the structure with bamboo posts spaced 2-3 m along the length of both sides of the trellis. Tie strings, 45 cm apart, at the top and both sides of the structure parallel to the length of the beds. Do the same across the structure to form the square netting at the sides (vertical trellis) and on top (horizontal trellis) where the plants will creep. Use a nylon string that does not absorb too much heat and can be reused in succeeding seasons.

ampalaya on vertical trellis

XI. Vine Training and Pruning When the plants start to crawl, direct them toward the side (vertical) trellis. Tie the vines to the vertical trellis until they reach the overhead (horizontal) trellis. Prune all sideshoots or lateral vines that do not reach the horizontal trellis to avoid overcrowding, favorable to nesting of pests. Also remove old and unproductive vines. XII. Pests and their Management (1) Fruitfly, Bactrocera cucurbitae (Coquillett), is the most damaging insect pest of ampalaya causing 17% damage on fruits during WS 2006 in Batac, Ilocos Norte. Farmers claimed more than 50% yield loss during the dry season despite weekly spraying of chemical insecticide. The fruitfly lays its eggs on young fruits which later hatch into small worms or larvae that number 10-35 individuals per fruit. They bore into the fruits and eat the flesh and young seeds.
adult Bactrocera cucurbitae

unmarketable fruits infested with fruitfly

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larvae feeding on ampalaya fruits

Symptoms of their presence include deformed fruits that turn orange or yellow prematurely. The fruitfly is not easy to manage because the adult is a good flyer and can travel long distances. The insect can be managed by removing regularly all damaged fruits every harvesting time and burying them under the ground or decomposing them in sealed plastic bags.

old and infested leaves and fruits decomposing in plastic bags

Wrap young fruits with old newspaper, plastic bags (ice bag), or used clothing to prevent fruitflies from laying eggs on the fruits.

fruits wrapped in paper

fruits wrapped in used clothing

(2) Aphids, Aphis gossypii Glover, suck the sap of leaves. This results in curling and yellowing of leaves, stunted growth, and even death of the whole plant. More importantly, the aphid is a vector of the cucurbit aphid-borne yellow virus (CABYV) which is similar to the namamarako disease in ampalaya. The virus disease causes curling, thickening, and yellowing of leaves, significantly decreasing in female flowers and consequently fruits. The virus disease is managed by destroying infested plants to prevent further spread. Monitor the plants regularly for the initial infestation of aphids. Remove the leaves or uproot the whole plant if necessary.

namamarako disease in ampalaya

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Control the ants that carry aphids to the plants by spraying them with any green-label insecticide. Control aphids by spraying water or chilli-soap solution at high pressure that will dislodge the pests from the plant, disrupting their life cycle. If insecticide is resorted to, use methomyl or carbaryl. Do not use pyrethroids that are purely contact insecticides with no fumigating effects, hence cannot reach the aphids underneath the leaves. Read the label and follow strictly the instructions to avoid contamination. The growth of sooty molds is an indirect damage due to the honeydew secreted by the aphids. Such growth hampers photosynthesis that finally kills the plant. (3) The leafroller, Diaphania indica (Saunders), rolls young leaves when the foliage is dense especially during the vegetative stage. Too much nitrogen fertilizer results in very dense and green foliage that favors the prevalence of the pest. Its larvae could feed on fruits, making them unmarketable. Removing rolled leaves and crushing the larvae can help control the pest, especially if the area planted is not too big. Apply only the needed nitrogen fertilizer. In wide-scale planting, a biological insecticide or stomach poison, Halt, can be sprayed late in the afternoon to control up to 3rd instar larvae only. Bigger larvae cannot be killed. If no chemical spraying is done, wasps can kill up to 92% of the larvae. XIII. Harvest and Postharvest Handling Harvesting starts within 30-40 days after transplanting, and can be done twice a week. Harvest fruits according to the demand of the market. Harvestable fruits are shiny, preferably 9-14 days from pollination. For the pinakbet of the Ilokanos, harvest younger fruits. Harvest fruits early in the morning and protect them from the sun, rain, and mechanical damage. Remove damaged fruits and sort according to market standards.

harvestable ampalaya

Pack in plastic bags, carton or plastic crates. Fruits can be kept fresh for 3-4 days under this condition.

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ampalaya for sorting and packing

ampalaya packed in plastic bags

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