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Philippines El Nido, Where Nature is Sacred Location El Nido is located in the northern part of Palawan, a Philippine province often

described as the last frontier. Palawan stretches 400 kilometres, but is a mere 40 kilometres in width. Generally, the province is known for endless, empty beaches, crystal clear waters, extraordinary natural rock formations and friendly people. Most tourists gain access to Palawan through its capital city of Puerto Princessa via daily flights from Manila. From Puerto Princessa, a combination of buses, jeepneys (the uniquely Filipino jeep cum taxi), and boats take visitors to El Nido, though the travel time and precise route will vary according to the weather and season. In addition to the long route, daily flights from Manila direct to the Lio Airport in El Nido are operated by Soriano Aviation. The Dornier aircraft used on this route carries 19 passengers, most of whom are headed to the Ten Knots resorts. Perhaps most notably, El Nido is marked by towering limestone cliffs which, in addition to their beauty, are home to thousands of swiftlets (Collocalia fuciphaga). The nests from these birds are collected in a sustainable manner by local harvesters, called boceadores, and sold to intermediaries. Ultimately, they end up in Asian restaurants where they are considered to be a culinary, and perhaps even curative, delicacy. El Nido is well known for beauty above and below the sea. Attractions and Activities El Nido is a destination for the adventurous because of its geography and limited transportation routes. Most tourists are drawn by the physical beauty, both above and below the sea, and the notion of isolation. That said, there are two quite different types of tourists attracted to the area. First are those bent on exploring much of Palawan. For them, time is unimportant, and their journey may take several weeks, or even a month or more. Many are backpackers, and almost all travel quite lightly. They typically reach El Nido via Puerto Princessa. Quite different, but attracted to the area for many of the same reasons, are the fly-in tourists who come to stay at one of the small number of major resorts. Though Palawan may appear isolated, for those with the desire and resources, the Dornier flight puts El Nido within 90 minutes travel time from Manila. A primary attraction within the El Nido area is snorkelling and scuba diving. Committed underwater enthusiasts come from around the world to experience these waters and the associated marine life. There are more than 200 species of tropical fish, 100 species of coral (compared to about 50 species in the Caribbean), and three species of endangered turtles, including the Green Sea, Hawksbill, and Olive Ridley. Being one of the most important areas of biological diversity in the country, the Philippines Government recently elevated the status of El Nido from a marine reserve to a protected area. Dive shops are easy to find within the town, and the resorts are fully equipped, typically providing guests with two dives per day, depending on the weather. For those new to the sport, introductory dives as well as full courses leading to certification are available. El Nidos Bacuit Bay area and associated archipelago comprise a series of towering limestone cliffs estimated to be some 250 million years old. These are where the swiflets nest. At the base of many cliffs visitors find white sand beaches beckoning them with promises of undisturbed seclusion. For many tourists, an ideal outing involves exploring the small bays and inlets, finding the perfect spot and spending the day on the beach, or snorkelling in the crystal clear waters. Particularly attractive are Paradise Beach on Cadlao Island (the largest and highest island

in the group), the palm-studded beach on the southern tip of Pinagbuyutan Island, and the big and small Lagoons at Miniloc Island. North Tapiutan Island has an excellent beach for snorkelling and, on the southern tip, one of the best spots for diving complete with rock fissures and tunnels. Grouper, turtles and barracuda are common in this area. For visitors who tire of the ocean, there are opportunities and good reasons to explore inland. The jungle and swamps remain largely undeveloped, and are home to more than 100 species of birds and twelve species of mammals. Included are the Palawan Tree Shrew and the Palawan Tree Squirrel, both of which are endemic. Kayaking in the lagoons. Early Development The 1980s marked a period of slow but steady expansion for the tourism industry in northern Palawan and the El Nido area in particular. This began when Ten Knots Corporation instituted a corporate plan for the development of a tourism destination site that would be environmentally sensitive, encourage conservation and environmental education, and support the development of the local economy. To those ends, the activities of the corporation have had a significant and beneficial influence on the El Nido environment and community. Specifically, the development and management philosophy identified by Ten Knots incorporated a three-pronged approach: Sustainable environmental resource management to address the potential for environmental degradation; Socioeconomic development to address the problem of dependence on a single industry or employer; Local capacity building and development of a governance model specifically to address the impact of tourism on the local community. These concepts were, from the very beginning, integral to the development of the Ten Knots tourism destination sites, and their relationship with the local community, the governments, and the natural environment. Before Ten Knots arrived on the scene, El Nido tourism was primarily reactive, focusing almost entirely on those most adventurous of travellers who persevered and found their way to northern Palawan. Within the local community limited services developed in response to the needs of the visitors. These initiatives created a small measure of additional income for the most entrepreneurial community members. However, broader opportunities and concern for the environment were limited. Today, after almost twenty years, Ten Knots operates two resorts, one on Miniloc Island and the other on Lagen Island (http://www.elnidoresorts.com). The Miniloc resort was built to resemble a fishing village, with some cottages sitting on stilts and others nestled against the limestone cliffs. Snorkelling is excellent right off the pier, and lagoons are a short kayak ride away. The second resort, located on Lagen Island, also includes cottages on stilts, as well as beachfront cottages and suites on the edge of the tropical forest. A short hike from the rooms leads to a private cove suitable for swimming and snorkeling. The size of these facilities is limited, with only 30 lodgings at Miniloc and 50 at Lagen. Ten Knots also played a key role in the development of the airport, and guests to the resorts constitute the majority of passengers arriving by air. The Ten Knots development, from the beginning, created local employment, as do virtually all major tourism activities. What was different with the Ten Knots approach, however, was the emphasis the organization placed on local participation and development. For example, Ten Knots emphasised buying locally produced products, whenever possible, for both development and operation. As well, Ten Knots realized from the outset that

tourists came in large measure because of the environment. If the environment were to suffer serious degradation, the result would be fewer tourists. In this regard, educating and working with the local community became paramount. Miniloc Island Beach Resort Community Involvement With the development of the resorts there has been increased promotion and resulting awareness of the El Nido area. This has generated a growing number of adventure travellers, which in turn has encourage the development of more guest houses, small cottage accommodations, restaurants and other services in El Nido town as well as the surrounding area. As in the past, these facilities are operated by and for the benefit of local people. A major factor in this period of evolution was the establishment in 1994 of the El Nido Foundation (ENF). Several years in the development, this Foundation operates under the direction of a local Executive Director and independent Board. Activities are funded primarily from interest income derived from the endowment, most of which initially came from the Andres Soriano Corporation and Nissin Sugar Manufacturing Corporation, joint owners of Ten Knots. The Foundation represents the acceptance by Ten Knots of social responsibility for helping to nurture and develop the local economy. ENF, borrowing from the Grameen model, provides financing for small cooperatives and micro-entrepreneurs through a series of lending windows.These windows are directed to individuals, groups of up to six people working as a cooperative, and associations. To date, more than 500 people, some borrowing as individuals, and others working in groups and associations, have received financing, some for more than one project. Almost all of these projects are directly or indirectly related to the development and support of tourism. Loans to individuals since the lending scheme started in 1994 exceed 2 million pesos, and the impact on the community has been substantial. Examples of projects are quite varied, but typical are small retail stores and stalls. In addition, farmers have been trained in environmentally friendly, high intensive farming techniques, and households have been introduced to bio-intensive gardening in support of environmentally sensitive waste management programs. Before these efforts were put in place, the resorts bought vegetables from Manila. They are now able to purchase much of their fresh food from local gardeners and farmers. The change has not only benefited the local population, but is also less expensive for the resorts a win-win outcome! At the association level, a group of women homemakers recently developed a project to augment their family incomes by looking after the laundry of the resorts. Instead of being employed as resort labourers, they now operate a business which employs others. Radio station upgrades and renovations to the local parish church are examples of other association activities. Boats like this are common in the region. They ferry tourists and supply the resorts. The People Mrs. Novie Aquino, a typical villager, has borrowed money through ENF on three occasions. Her first loan paid for a boat built by local craftsmen. When the boat was completed, she contracted to bring supplies, all of which must come by water, to the resorts, and then hired her brother to operate the boat. The loan was paid off within a year, and the earnings now go entirely to the family. That project was quickly followed by a loan to construct a small Karaoke bar, a venture that also proved to be highly successful. The

loan was paid off within a year, and followed by a third loan, this time to establish a small retail meat stall. Now Mrs. Aquino is planning a fourth project raising hogs! She describes the experience: The opportunity to borrow money has changed my life. The salary of my husband was not enough. By borrowing money from the Foundation we now have a much better life. I can buy not only enough food for my family, but we are now saving money for a house. Now I employ two people at the stall as well as relatives at the other projects. Rudy Samson worked for several years at one of the resorts as a purchasing officer. Then, using a loan from ENF, he started his own business. Now he supplies the resorts with local crafts. My contacts with the resort and the local people put me in an excellent position to do this. Now I earn more than ever before, and Im my own boss! Bella Magos, restaurateur and owner of Magos Cottage, borrowed money to upgrade her six room inn. She now plays host to guests from Germany, Belgium, France and the Netherlands. ENF board member and Barangay Captain, Susan Lualhati, operates Lualhati Cottage. She describes ENF as a major asset to the community. It has helped the community and the environment by enhancing the ability of the local people to share in the benefits of tourism. Now, the link between economic development and environmental protection is obvious to all of us. The environmental work of ENF has been notable. It has included enhancement of potable water services within the community, formulation of a five year tourism agenda, coastal clean-up activities, and watershed rehabilitation. Rico Fernandez, Municipal Administrator in El Nido, argues that tourism helps provide opportunities for young people within the community by providing jobs and training which otherwise would not exist. At the same time, he notes that, local people are being influenced as never before by tourists. Their English language skills are developing, and the community is learning more about the world beyond Palawan. Vice Mayor of El Nido, Edwin Vidal, sums up the current context. Tourism in El Nido has, over just the past few years, increased significantly. In particular, the number of European tourists has increased. The NGOs, and ENF in particular, have played a major role in helping us develop facilities for tourists within and near El Nido town. In fact, the community organizations have been a major outcome of ENF. Lagen Island. Lessons Learned The most obvious and consequential precept lies in the beneficial symbiotic relationship between the Ten Knots resorts and the community. They cater to different types of tourists, and in this regard are neither competitors nor cooperators. However, Ten Knots originally and consistently espoused a management and development philosophy that recognizes that the future of the resorts is inextricably linked to both the people of the area and the environment. As a result, everyone has benefited. The activities of Ten Knots, and particularly the creation of the El Nido Foundation, have helped the community

develop a variety of business opportunities including its own capacity for attracting and supporting tourism. Ten Knots is an exemplary example of a community-minded, private sector corporation committed to sharing the benefits of development and tourism. Also important in this example of community-based tourism development are the special opportunities for women, and the resulting impact. Women are by far the largest and most successful of the borrowers using money from the Foundation, and their successes appear to provide immediate benefits and opportunities for relatives and other community members, as well as meaning tremendous potential for children. Along with additional family income comes better nutrition and strong encouragement for children to stay in school. The next generation of El Nido entrepreneurs are already being trained as they watch their mothers in action. The value of foundations, community groups and NGOs is obvious and difficult to overestimate. El Nido provides an example of community empowerment through participatory governance. When the stakeholders are involved in the development process, the benefits are more immediate and more widely diffused. This is apparent in the manner by which the community has taken to heart the importance of the environment. Rudy Sampson, former Ten Knots employee, turner entrepreneur. The Future According to El Nidos Vice Mayor, the key to the future is to provide a high level of service and target niche areas for development. Training is also an important issue in terms of future needs. In the past, government has helped with training, but that may not be the case in the future. Clearly, the Vice Mayor anticipates the need for continuing development of the El Nido community. Rico Fernandez believes that tourism is the vehicle to generate local economic development and protect the environment. That is what we are learning to appreciate, along with how to control it. In this regard, the issue of carrying capacity is paramount. The community and the resorts need to determine, in advance, the point at which an increasing number of tourists will degrade the environment beyond its ability to recover. Ultimately, that question is the heart of sustainabilty. For more than a decade, Ten Knots has assumed a leading role in the protection of the environment. Increasingly, however, the direct participation of the community, NGOs, and the various governments, through education and action plans, is critical as the question of sustainability comes to the fore with the growth in tourism. Fortunately, the future looks positive given the broad awareness, involvement, and commitment. Novie Aquino's retail stall supplies fresh meat to the community and employs two people.

Contact: El Nido Foundation, Inc. Calle Real Brgy. Buena Suerte El Nido, Palawan, Philippines, 63 2 634-4437; 634-5539 (Phone) 63 2 634-5538 (Fax) http://www.gopi.com

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Philippines Villa Escudero, A Plantation Getaway Location Villa Escudero, an elegant and spacious coconut plantation, lies near San Pablo City in the shadow of volcanic mountains, just two hours by car or bus from Metro Manila and very near the border of Batangas and Quezon. This is one of the oldest plantations in the Philippines, originally founded in 1677. Currently, Villa Escudero plantation is a resort for Filipinos. Though there continues to be limited agricultural work taking place on the plantation, the major focus is playing host to Filipino day visitors from Manila and other cities. According to Conrado Escudero, the plantation head, the key ingredient attracting tourists is the opportunity to see the open land and dream of being a landowner. At Villa Escudero tourists travel on bullock carts to view the plantation and see the traditional village and villagers, just as landowners would do some 50 or even 150 years past. Then they have lunch outdoors beside a scenic waterfall, and later they watch a traditional Filipino cultural performance. Some stay on overnight at the cottages, but for most the experience is a day trip. Visitors enjoy the Labasin waterfall. Development In 1860 the plantation was acquired by Don Placido de Leon Escudero. Now, Conrado Escudero, the grandson, operates the plantation. It was Conrado Escudero who, after his studies at agricultural school during the 1960s, realized that traditional plantations, and coconut operations in particular, were facing increasing and likely irreversible changes. Labour costs were rising dramatically, the price for agricultural products was steady or declining, and opportunities to develop more land were nonexistent. It was apparent to Conrado Escudero that these pressures would require dramatic change, and, under his assessment and guidance, Villa Escudero shifted from being a purely agricultural operation to one which now focuses on tourism. This new product, described as agri-tourism, showcases the agricultural environment, arts, culture and Filipino heritage. This shift at Villa Escudero, which started in earnest during the late 1970s, has had little outward influence on the physical nature of the plantation; however, daily life on the plantation has a completely different focus. Villa Escudero includes several cottages built overlooking Lake Labasin. Current Context On a typical day, the 450 hectare plantation hosts 300 visitors, though it has attracted as many as 7,000 in one day. Each of these guests is looking forward to a few hours in the countryside where the visible attractions are plantation crops, heritage buildings and

views of the volcanic mountains in the background. For city dwellers from Manila, this environment provides an opportunity to relax and enjoy the outdoors. For most tourists, the day begins with a cool drink at the reception building. This is followed by a bullock cart ride around the plantation amidst the singing of native songs by members of the local cultural group, and includes a tour of the village community which is at the heart of the plantation. Most of the village buildings have been re-cast in a traditional Filipino architectural style, and the rest are scheduled for refurbishment. The goal, almost complete, is to ensure that all buildings on the property are true replicas of Filipino heritage. The museum is an important stop, and one that is described by many tourists as the highlight of their visit. Set on two stories, the museum houses one of the largest collections of Filipino artifacts in southeast Asia, with a particular focus on religious artifacts. Included in the collection are early 17th century carvings in ironwood, silver altars, gilded carrozas, rare coins, oriental ceramics, costumes, and dioramas. Some of the museum guides are third generation, and they know the collection well. Lunch at the plantation is native cuisine set on tables which are placed in the water at the Labasin waterfall. Visitors cool themselves while enjoying the food and the view of the falls. Young people in particular seem particularly attracted to this part of the day. Visitors spend at least part of the afternoon exploring other areas of the plantation, and some even try out the bamboo rafts on Lake Labasin. However, all are drawn by midafternoon to the Filipino cultural show staged by the villagers. Singing and dancing are the mainstays of the show, with storytelling and colourful costumes providing additional embellishment. Although most tourists arrive in small groups, there is an increasing number of tour groups, as well as graduation parties, weddings and conventions booked into the plantation. Each year the number of visitors has been increasing, and plans are being developed to expand the facilities. To date, 34 cottages for overnight stays have been built, all in traditional Filipino architectural style. The museum houses one of the largest collections of artifacts in Southeast Asia. The Community Central to Villa Escudero is the plantation village, home to 125 families (500 - 600 people). Only a few decades earlier, this community formed the basis for the agricultural labour force. Now, these are the people who, playing host to the tourists, benefit from the new tourism focus. The village is very much an historical community. In fact, it dates back nine generations. Villagers own their own houses, and all work for Villa Escudero supporting the new emphasis on tourism. Roles include working in reception, food and beverage, transportation, housekeeping, administration, grounds, and, perhaps most importantly, in the cultural groups that entertain visitors. Often, villagers perform several roles. By living and working in the village community, employment is guaranteed, along with good wages, medical care, access to education, safety, and food and clean water. Without tourism, it is likely that many if not most of the villagers would be under employed, if not unemployed. Within the community, crime is virtually unknown. For more than two decades there has been economic stability, and the local school is in the village itself. (Though it will in future

be amalgamated with another school outside the village in order to offer a full range of opportunities.) Youth who live in the village and who are interested in attending college receive scholarships. Experience has shown that those who leave the village to enrol in college tend to return, and, as the tourism activities grow, those who have a higher level of education are increasingly required. Reflecting much of the traditional Filipino way of life, the village is a cultural enclave, and there is an increasing emphasis on re-creating a heritage environment, particularly focussing on the architecture. And while initially there was some resistance to participating in the cultural program the men in particular were somewhat reluctant to don costumes now these are particularly sought after roles. Currently, the Village musters 150 dancers and a string band which recently won a national competition. Conrado Escudero describes the re-development of the traditional village and the opportunities for women and youth. When I took over, many of the Filipino community and cultural traditions had been lost. However, when we started to re-infuse them into daily life, the people of the village readily embraced them. Women are generally more resourceful and dependable. In the areas of general management and operations, they work independently and do the best job. Practically all the supervisors at Villa Escudero are women as they are more reliable and pay considerable attention to detail. Women are more versatile and creative. The young people in the village have more opportunity to work and they see growth opportunities. Unlike many areas in the Philippines, more job opportunities are opening at Villa Escudero and this will continue. Emma Artilaga is a third generation villager at Villa Esudero. Her husband works as a woodcarver. I like the village because life is very peaceful here. Its a good place to raise my children and the community is well managed. By living and working here there are very few expenses and we have a good income. Michael Kiamco is also a third generation member of the community. He works in the administration offices and plays bass guitar as a member of the Villa Escudero performance group. Villa Escudero provides me with an opportunity for a good life. Many of the worries of the outside world are not present. Also important to me is the opportunity to enhance my income by working as a performer, and I get to learn more about my heritage. Mrs. Teresita Dalangin whose parents and grandparents worked at Villa Escudero describes the relationship between tourism and the life of the villagers. The more tourists we have here at Villa Escudero, the more opportunities there are for wage incentives and extra jobs. Most of the original farmers now have work which focuses on the tourists. The environment is safe and secure, and the older community members receive a monthly pension, something you dont always have elsewhere. People feel good because they are not afraid. I would like my son to work here. It is much better than trying to make a living in Manila or some other city.

The visitors to Villa Escudero are almost entirely local people, travelling no more than two or three hours to the site. Typical is Manuel Valerrama, who describes the charm of the Villa in the following manner. Ive been here three times, and each time I have brought guests with me. The natural environment is quite interesting, as is the museum. There are many different kinds of art and artifacts, including many examples of Filipino heritage. Im always impressed, as are my guests. Lee Victoria, another visitor, describes his experience. I was last here in the 1960s when the plantation was not developed for tourism. The museum is much larger now, and I find the displays of Filipino heritage, as well as those pieces of the collection that have come from other parts of the world, to be very fascinating. The [Villa Escudero] is also appealing because it is an easy driving distance from Manila. Its nice to be able to enjoy a rural experience this close to the city. The developments at Villa Escudero have also influenced life outside the village, albeit to a smaller degree. In particular, the increasing need for supplies and food services has created a number of small business opportunities outside the plantation. In some cases these are direct producers/suppliers, while in other cases they are wholesalers acting as agents in order to bring products and specialized resources to the plantation. In addition, hotels and small guest accommodations are flourishing in the area as the number of tourists increase. A typical home in the plantation village. The Future Plans are being developed that will lead to expanded facilities and an increased number of day and overnight visitors. Included are a larger meeting and convention centre, as well as an educational complex, hardwood forest, aviary and butterfly farm. All of this will blend with the plantation environment and be managed by the Village community. Villa Escudero is incomparable. The socioeconomic context of the area affords a unique platform, one where the village community enjoys a comfortable, safe and stable environment. Changes in the economic viability of plantation operations could have led to unemployment and instability. However, tourism has provided opportunities far beyond those found in the traditional plantation life and, at the same time, given rise to the recreation and celebration of Filipino culture and heritage. The future for the Village within this context appears to be very bright. Emma Artilaga describes village life as peaceful and a good place to raise children.

Contact: Villa Escudero 1059 Estrada Street Malate 1004 Metro Manila, Philippines, 63 2 521-0830 (Phone) 63 2 521-8698 (Fax) vespar@msc.net.ph http://www.travelsmart.net/ph/resorts/Quezon/Villa_Escudero/Welcome.htm

Next Chapter | Previous Chapter Cover Page | Index Page | Edited by Michael Hatton Copyright 1999-2002 | Return to Top of Page Canada Chemainus, The Little Town That Did! Location The small Canadian town of Chemainus is located on Vancouver Island, slightly more than an hours drive north on the Trans-Canada Highway from Victoria, the capital of British Columbia. Visitors to Chemainus arrive from the U.S. ports of Port Angeles and Seattle, via Victoria, and from Vancouver and Tsawwassen on the Canadian mainland, via Nanaimo on the east coast of Vancouver Island. The drive to Chemainus, regardless of route, is especially scenic, graced with towering forests, snow-capped mountains and ocean vistas. The Hong Hing Waterfront Store by Paul Marcano. Early Development The early history of the Chemainus area is inextricably tied to its forests and the associated industries. In the mid-1850s, the land was owned by the Hudsons Bay Company, that most venerable Canadian corporation. Finally, in the late 1850s, the first white settlers purchased land and began to work the forests. Chemainus, or more specifically the bay around which the town grew, was home to natural features which made it attractive to the forest industry. In particular, a powerful stream with a scenic waterfall was potent enough to operate the sawmill which opened in 1862, possibly the first mill operation on the Pacific coast that is still operational. In spite of the mill site, the lumber industry gave rise to only a small settlement during the early years of Chemainus. By the mid-1880s there were a couple of houses, some shacks, and a combined post office and company store hardly a large community. However, the late 1880s heralded the arrival of the railroad, and the town slowly grew for the next thirty years. In the early 1920s, the population was estimated at 600, with about half the inhabitants being of Chinese, Japanese and Salish Indian origin. As a one-industry town, the fortunes of Chemainus shifted up and down, in concert with the forest industry, through much of the twentieth century. When wood products were in high demand, the town and its people thrived. When the industry was in decline, jobs were lost and the population tended to decline. Several times the mill shut down, only to be reopened, and in several cases re-built, later. Thirty-three metre collage by Frank Lewis, Nancy Lagana and Paul Marcano. How Murals Changed the Landscape By the late 1970s, the mill was antiquated, the industry was suffering through exceptionally hard times, and for sale signs dotted the local landscape. For many, it appeared that Chemainus might not recover. The mill owner, MacMillan Bloedel, estimated losses during the 1979 - 1981 period at more than CD$15M, and the mill closed son after. Some thought the town was finished. At this same time, the town had been awarded a grant from a provincial redevelopment

fund and community leaders, led by a new, young Mayor, Graham Bruce, were searching for ideas on how to spend it. Karl Schutz, a highly successful German immigrant, was asked to contribute suggestions and, ultimately, coordinate the revitalization project. In fact, since the early 1970s, Schutz had been promoting the notion of having large, outdoor murals painted around the town. Initially the local Chamber of Commerce had rejected this idea, but now, with the town in serious decline, the proposal was examined more carefully. Slowly, Schutz began to get commitment from various stakeholders. Finally, in 1982 the proposal was adopted, though not everyone in the community, at least at that time, thought tourism was the solution. Beginning in 1982, and continuing for the next decade, a total of 27 murals were commissioned. All of them portray the history of Chemainus, celebrating, for example, native heritage, the Japanese legacy, and early settlers. Today, there are 33 murals. The last one was completed in 1996. To simply describe the outdoor art as murals, and let it go at that, would be misleading. Chemainus has bared its soul by exhibiting its history on its buildings. Five works were completed in 1982, and these alone give a clear indication of the tone and focus of the entire enterprise. Steam Donkey At Work, by Frank Lewis and Nancy Lagana, like many other murals, is based on a photograph. Taken from Water Over The Wheel by W. H. Olsen, it depicts a steam donkey and crew performing the miserable job of hauling a log through the forest. The Thirty-Three Metre Collage, an incredibly large mural by the same artists and Paul Marcano, portrays a crew of stevedores on the Chemainus wharf, a boomman sorting logs, and a steam locomotive dumping a load of logs. Paul Marcano also completed two of the 1982 murals. Using a 16 by 6.6 metre canvas he painted Steam Train On Bridge Over Chemainus River. Then with a smaller wall section, only 8 by 4.4 metres, he painted The Hong Hing Waterfront Store. Hong Hing, or more properly Fong Yen Lew, was a local hero, liked by all for his kindness and generosity when townspeople, usually because of economic downturns, could not afford to pay cash. His store was a fixture in Chemainus from the mid 1910s until the 1950s. The fifth 1982 mural, also depicting the forest industry, is entitled Fallers Undercutting A Fir. Ten metres tall, this mural depicts the imposing size of the forest as well as the mechanics of logging that fallers practiced at the turn of the century. In addition to the overall theme followed by the muralists, which has been to depict local history and culture, several sub-themes are clearly identifiable. For example, the native influence is dramatically displayed in a mural called Native Heritage. The major elements in this composition are three faces based on local figures from the aboriginal community. The murals size, 15.4 by 6.2 metres, and the strength of character, wisdom and grace apparent in the faces, make it a stunning artistic work. The Winning Float and The Lone Scout celebrate the Japanese contribution to the Chemainus area. Painted by Joyce Kamikura, the former recreates the winning float, designed by members of the Japanese Canadian community, for the 1939 parade celebrating the golden jubilee of the Victoria Lumber and Manufacturing Company. The Lone Scout, painted by Stanley Hiromichi Taniwa, profiles Edward Shige Yoshida who, in 1929, started the first all-Japanese Canadian troop of Boy Scouts. Born in Chemainus, Mr. Taniwa was relocated to an internment camp during World War II. Afterwards, his family resettled in Ontario, some 3,200 kilometres east of Chemainus. According to the artist, painting the mural was a personal statement. To date, more than $300,000 has been invested in the Chemainus mural project from

federal, provincial, municipal, corporate and private sources. The look of the town is completely different. From a landscape of for sale signs to a sea of tourists, Chemainus has every right to call itself, the little town that did. (For a mural tour, see http://northcowichan.bc.ca/mural_1.htm) Arrive of 'The Reindeer' in Horseshoe Bay by Sandy Clark and Lea Goward. Tourism As nice as the murals might be, they were never seen as an end in themselves by either Karl Schutz or the Chamber of Commerce. That said, the west coast of Canada, and Vancouver Island in particular, is a tourism mecca. The scenery and climate draw visitors in the millions. Tourism was not the immediate or obvious answer in 1981 when the key question was what to do and ideas of all sorts were being tossed around. There were thousands of tourists driving up and down the Trans-Canada Highway, but no one seemed to have good ideas about how to get them to turn off and drive the kilometre or so into town. It was Schutz who linked tourism with local economic prosperity, and saw murals as the vehicle to draw the tourists. Today, it is estimated that Chemainus annually attracts and benefits from between 350,000 and 400,000 visitors. For most of these visitors, Chemainus represents a very pleasant diversion of several hours, though an increasing number stay overnight at one of the many bed and breakfast accommodations. Vancouver Island tour companies almost always include Chemainus as one of their stops, and during the peak season the town will see as many as 25 buses in a given day. Following the creation of the first murals, promotion was necessary in order to get the word out. Tourism grew, but not overnight. Three years into the project, annual tourist arrivals were estimated at 15,000. However, those 15,000 must have been very excited, because the next few years saw dramatic growth in the number of tourists and, at the same time, more and more murals were being added. While the murals attracted the tourists, the economic influence of these visitors encouraged young people to migrate to Chemainus in search of work. In addition, older people began to consider the now picturesque town as a retirement destination. The Chemainus of today has a population of 4,000 and includes thriving cafes, restaurants, gift shops, antique stores, and arts and crafts galleries. Recently, a 270-seat theatre, which houses a drama school, opened. In all, more than 70 new businesses took root in the first fifteen years of Chemainus redevelopment. Typical of the local businesses is the arts and crafts store, Made in Chemainus. It represents local artists who specialize in everything from glass blowing to pottery and jewelry. Brian Donald, one of those artists, explains, when we say local artists, we mean people who live within a few blocks. The arts community lives right here, and it's growing like never before. A large proportion of businesses in Chemainus are owned and operated by women. Karl Schutz says, we realize women have been highly successful in the entrepreneurial area. Typical of these is Degage Fashions, owned and operated by Sherry Tolman. For the past seven years she has been manufacturing and selling clothing and accessories. Sherry describes the town as a great place to live and do business. The town is very friendly, with a nice, warm atmosphere, and the tourists are older, have lots of disposable income, and we satisfy their needs with quality products and excellent service. The murals are what bring the tourists, but they come back for the atmosphere, including the theatre and

arts. Bev Burmeister, entrepreneur and owner of the Chemainiac Shop agrees. Chemainus has grown very nicely. Fourteen years ago, when I first opened my gift store, I could sit outside and have lunch without being interrupted. Now I need to have two staff in the store at all times. She goes on to describe Chemainus as unique. Unlike many other towns in the area, Chemainus has managed to resist the large department stores, or big boxes as some call them. As a result, Chemainus is a small store heaven. We have the best selection and variety of shops anywhere. Its all small businesses, and though people come to see the murals, they return again and again to shop and experience the towns atmosphere. Bevs advice to would be entrepreneurs? There are great opportunities to start new businesses. But you have to work hard in order to be a successful entrepreneur. You have to take courses, learn about customer service, and be open to change. The opportunities are there if you are willing to work hard and invest in your ideas. Native Heritage by Paul Ygarta. The Mill Important to note, but often overlooked, is the fact that the MacMillan Bloedel mill reopened in 1985. Completely redesigned, and far more technologically efficient, the new mill is a major employer within Chemainus. Using laser technology, it competes with the best in the world, and specializes in producing clear, high-grade lumber for the building industry, with Japan as a major customer. With 180 employees, the mill continues to be central to life in Chemainus. While before 1982, the mill was central to Chemainus, now the town enjoys the benefits of a more diversified economic base In Search of Snipes -- designed and cast by Glenn Spicer. The Future Chemainus is a town that, through tourism, celebrated local heritage, diversified its economy, attracted young people, and provided the impetus that gave rise to a host of small businesses including art galleries, craft and antique stores. The small businesses, which first developed and fed off the tourists who were attracted by the murals, are now drawing repeat visitors who come back for the shopping, not just the murals. This development continues. Plans are in place to continue the mural program, and the observant visitor will see sculpture and other forms of outdoor art appearing in and around the town. In addition, Chemainus Theatre has plans for future developments. One of the next steps involves sharing the mural program with other towns and cities around the world. In Karl Schutz vision, the success enjoyed by Chemainus can be easily replicated. To date, according to Karl, though Chemainus was the first to target the murals as an economic development activity, there are now more than 100 communities in Canada, the U.S, Australia and New Zealand that have used outdoor art as a formula to enhance tourism. Perhaps this is just the beginning. Profile of a Social Entrepreneur The man with the idea, Karl Schutz , arrived in Canada in 1951. He was 21. Karls first job was working on the rail lines that passed through Chemainus, but within a few months he was able to secure a job at the Chemainus mill. Starting as a lumber sorter, he was soon promoted to the machine shop. After five years at the mill, Karl realized that, unlike tradition in Europe, he didnt have to follow one trade for his entire life. Leaving the mill,

he opened a custom woodworking shop that was quite successful. At the age of 40, following real estate investments, Karl retired. Karl recalls when the mural concept took root. It was in 1971, when my wife and I visited Romania. We saw murals that were 300 years old, and I instinctively understood the relationship between art, tourism and economic development. Understanding it versus selling it were, however, two different issues. At first the town thought the idea was too far fetched. Who would want to come and see art painted on the side of buildings? But Karl persevered, and almost a decade later the economic downturn in Chemainus gave rise to creative willingness. According to Karl, The turning point came when the mayor pursued the development of a downtown Chemainus and searched for an economic strategy. When asked to identify his favourite mural, Karl Schutz is politically careful. I like them all, and I especially like the first one because it set a trend, was well executed, and proved my point that arts and tourism bring people together. As he looks back on almost twenty years of a very successful art and tourism economic development program, Karl describes the most important benefit as the way in which pride has been put back into the community. This has been more important than the economic spin-offs, as great as they are.

Arts & Business Council of Chemainus P.O.Box 1311 9796 Willow Street Chemainus, British Columbia, Canada, V0R 1K0 1 250 246-4701 (Phone) 1 250 246-3251 (Fax) abc@tourism.chemainus.bc.ca http://www.chemainus.com Next Chapter | Previous Chapter Cover Page | Index Page | Edited by Michael Hatton Copyright 1999-2002 | Return to Top of Page

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