Edna

2 Fairy Godmother Doll Pin - By Michelle Pearson

Requirements: Fat Eighth Cotton Fabric for Face and Body 10cm Fine Ribbon or Lace Trim Scraps Mohair for Hair No. 40 Felting Needle Matching Threads Watercolour or Prisma Colour Pencils Fine Black & Brown Pigma Pen White Gel Pen Doll Sculpting Needle Craft Glue 1 x 30mm Brooch Pin 30cm Gold 20gge Beading Wire Stuffing Fray Stop General Sewing Supplies 5cm x 3mm String Pearls 1 Set of Pre-Manufactured Fairy Wings Approx 5 x 1 (13cm x 4cm)

It is important to read ALL instructions carefully before starting, including details written on the actual pattern pieces! Instructions are written based on a template sewing technique, which requires you to trace and sew the pattern pieces onto the fabric BEFORE cutting them out. Failing to sew the doll in this manner may result in a disproportionate or distorted figure. An open-toed sewing or appliqu foot will make the job of sewing these fine lines much easier! 1. Trace pattern pieces on to wrong side of double cotton fabric. Be careful when tracing, as thick lines, or crooked drawing can change the outcome of your completed work, be accurate and trace pencil or with a fine line marker or pen! Leave at least between each pattern piece to enable you to cut out pattern pieces with at least seam. Sew ON the drawn lines, using a 1 stitch length for all pattern pieces, leaving open where indicated along bottom edge of bust and at the back of the head. 2. Cut out pieces with 1/8 1/4" seam allowance. Clip seams carefully and fray stop the seam edges. Test fray stop on scrap fabric to ensure it does not stain when dried. Ensure you apply the liquid to the intended area or edges only! Pin the front and back head pieces together, ensure you do not mix up which way up the head pieces need to be assembled together! Sew using a 1/8 seam allowance, take care and keep your sewing line as straight as possible. 3. Turn Head and Bust pieces right sides out. Stuff the bust and neck firmly. Ladder stitch opening closed. Glue on the Lace/Ribbon trim along the bottom edge of the bust, folding over about 1cm to the back on both ends. Wrap the String Pearls around neck and cut to length, glue ends together, and then glue to back of neck to keep from moving. Put aside. 4. Stuff the head well, paying close attention to the nose. It can be a little tricky to keep the nose fully stuffed because when you insert more stuffing, the existing stuffing is easily displaced. Take your time and get it right. Thread the doll sculpting needle with a long double strand of matching thread. Tie a large knot in one end, and enter into the head from the back. Using the sculpting diagram as a guide, sculpt the bridge of the nose. Follow the sculpting steps in numerical order, taking small stitches. The nostrils are sculpted in numerical order also. The flare of the nostrils are stitched by coming out at point No. ?? and wrapping the thread on the outside of the face around to point No. ??, enter the needle at this pint and come out at the side of the nose before the thread. To couch the thread down, pull the thread up tight, away from the nose and enter in the needle in just on the other side of the thread, where you have come out. Finish by coming out at the back of the head and tying off. Repeat for the other side. Draw on eyes lightly with lead pencil. If you make a mistake or the shape is not quite right, use a fabric eraser and start again. When you are happy with your drawing, use the black pigma pen to go over the pupil and eye outlines and the brown pigma pen to go over the top eyelid and eyebrows. Depending on the fabric colours you have chosen to make your doll, select suitable shades that will match to the fabric colour. It is good, however, to use two or three shades of the same colour to get a more realistic look with shading. Watercolour pencils are a great, inexpensive way to colour your faces. Colour lighter close to the pupil getting darker to the edge of the iris. Highlight the eyelid area softly with an eyeshadow colour. Draw on the lashes and use a white gel pen to colour the whites of the eyes and also to make the highlight dot in the pupils. NOTE: Be careful when using watercolour pencils, if you use too much water the colour will bleed through the fabric and you will have to make another head. Often a damp tissue that you can dab the pencil tip into is enough.

5. Draw on mouth lightly with lead pencil. If you make a mistake or the shape is not quite right, use a fabric eraser and start again. Refer to mouth sculpting diagram. Define the smile and cheeks by stitching between points 11 & 12 on one side of the head approx 3 times. Repeat for other side of head at Points 13 & 14, tying off at the back of the head. The Mouth stitches are all done on the outside of the fabric. Come out at point 13 and take a stitch and enter in at Point 15, coming out at Point 16. With the thread on the outside, enter in at point 15 again and come out at point 17 on the centre seam. Couch this stitch (as for the nostril flare) and come out at point 16. Finally enter in at Point 11 and pull tight tying off at back of head. Outling the mouth use the brown pigma pen and colour the mouth in using your preferred shade. Stitch a dimple just under the mouth, at pionts 18 & 19, approx 1/8 either side of the centre seam similar to how you stitched the corner of the mouth to the corner of the eye, pull your stitches tight to give definition. Add a little blush to the cheeks and light shading around the nose area. 6. Pin the head to the neck and ladder stitch in place. Place pieces of the mohair onto the head and use the felting needle to attach it. Take care as the felting needle is sharp, do not get distracted while attaching the hair!! I have piled the hair on top of the head, you can do it in whatever fashion you wish! Cut wings in half and glue or stitch to back of bust. Sew the brooch pin the back of the neck carefully. You could glue the brooch pin, using a glue that would adhere metal to fabric if you like. 7. Lastly, make the glasses by wrapping the wire around a pencil and bending the wire into a shape to resemble what you see in the photo. I folded the ends of the wire over to avid scratching the fabric. Stitch or glue the glasses into place. You may prefer to find a pair of miniature glasses to use instead. Congratulations, you can now pin and wear Edna with pride!

Facial Features

Completed Head

Picture of wings and brooch clasp on back.

Face Diagram

Head & Face Sculpting Diagram

Mouth Diagram

2006 This is an original design by Michelle Pearson. Design is offered in good faith and all designs, illustrations and instructions are under copyright to Raggedy Stitches, and may not be reproduced in any form.