Ceramic Arts Handbook

Ceramic Arts Handbook
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Throwing Chapter 3
Clean and Dampen the Wheelhead. The ideal surface for
receiving the clay is slightly damp for any shaping task. If you want and finishing small vessels. Use slow speed for large vessels.
Centering: Full Body Control. Centering and wheel wedging depend on full body control.
ActionReaction. For every action there is a reaction. Keep in

but pressurewheel aofrubberapplying of with an economy start prepared Use beforethe wheelerly not wet. points. onConcentrating the clay motion. Be rib to pressure, and small area ofdown clay force on off clear or bat, allspecific head about always seal reason the squeegee a theand remaining pressure remove theslurry for
wedging, is flatten side of The worktheor not done a by your area, to smoothand wheel where the lump penetratingbroad clay the arm of a rib. is moving medium muscles, but rather byspeed for force use clay. Use away from the full hands your wid-
at all the mind times.consequences of is every Excess friction your enemy. pressure that that water is type of But remember you apply to

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will give you do,pot, beforethoroughly (Fig. andand control what- the previouswheel. remember edges ever much from stopping the greater). if any 3.2 than broad aggressive, adventurthat with an application remove it surface moisture remains, of pressure approach large will learn ous an old towel (Fig. 3.1 ). very with over a you area. Centering primarily involves quickly. Take risks. the walls pressure with the base of the right hand. Lifting involves pressure with slightly bent fingertips rather than the flats of the fingers or the hand. Once the clay has taken the form of a basic vessel, you should never
ening the bottom, lifting (assuming you torso whenthe walls, of your upper are throwing you roll counterclockwise). your hips forward on the chair or bench (Fig. 3.3).
continuously absorbedlifting the shapthe clay, and, when into or clay, decreasing structural stability. As you ing a vessel, apply corresponding practice both inside and work the pressure throwing, try to outside fast. form. Avoid expanding the diameter of a form without pressure from both sides, unless you are very sure of the anticipated outcome.
Throwing Chapter 3
slowly and a piece begins to soften, inwards before cutting the pot off in throwing is to keep the outside
When Throwing, Use the Best Tool for the Job. Usually
we throw with our fingers, but
Skill Development with Cylinders

One of the best ways to develop

synchronize always excess best ofchoice. the the may that is Compress rim regularly, and the you rim. notremovemovementwater your and hands the on cylinder-basedporcelain, keep often rim When throwing speed of the When it slurry with sponges forms ribs. wheel and so diameter works not smaller than throw grooves very leave deep base with the well to spiral of a youas reachto an approximationdiameter or wall height side and untilmarks. Much may a rubber or sponge shape is established.problems desired on one you of theremove all in learning throw or even by metal water and do the causedwith excess rib ontothe other,are final shaplifting too or in to the two with fingers, proportionsponges, ribs, ing rubber fast metal damp especially speed when of the wheel.broad, voluminous throwingmaking (jug finger), or rubstick forms. When making ber, metal, or wooden ribs.a tall form with a narrow rim, it makes sense to neck in the rim immediately upon achieving the desired height, and then use a jug-finger to broaden the body of the vessel.
your ability When cutting to pots, the wheel. on the wheel is off throw lots cylinders ( wire very you hold of the cutoffFig. 3.4). As taut. When cutting off large flat in half complete each one, cut it shapes, always do with with the cut-off turnso wheel wire vertically your ing observe the cross-section from to to keep the cutoff wire proclimbing uptry to the base of theother file. Dont into do this with pot. Trim orbecause theyfinish the bottom shapes, otherwise will collapse as carefully, you cut them, whereas there soon as and make sure that half is a line of shadow around up. When of cylinder will still stand the base, separating it the cut cylinder there from the surface upon you view which it sits. important things to look are several for. First of all, a primary objective
profile and inside profile as similar as possible. In other words, if the walls are of uniform thickness, then the outside and inside will be very close to the same contour, whereas if the lower wall is very thick, the outside and inside will be very different in shape. Start off with a series of six or eight small cylinders, working up to about 4" or 5" in height. Try to achieve walls that are no more than K" thick at the bottom and G" just below the rim, with a smoothly tapering wall in between. The bottom thickness is not so crucial, but remember that if you wish to trim the bottom it should be K" to H" or more thick (this will give you ample thickness for trimming a raised footring), and make sure that the bottom is flat and level, with a distinct rounded corner where the bottom
Throwing Chapter 3 may

When you cut each cylinder in mentioned earlier, centrifugal force
ends and the wall begins. Later you wish to throw forms with a curved bottom, but for skill development it really helps to become familnot attempt to repair it. If there is iar with flat-bottom cylinders.
As a general rule, in the early stage
3.5g. With each successive cylinder,

try to respond to the problems or

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on the ordinary cylinder, try observe faults rememberprevious ones, so doing half bats. In making carefully penetrate in the to bowls, that timed are you lump continuously down bottom the uniformity of the the at the cylinders. widen experimenting and Sit walls,
tends to force the clay outward from the center, and in making bowls
of throwing any form it crack to sufficient clay below the is wiseyou avoid radical the damaged portion may cut away horizontal orientation
Throwing Chapter 3
Figure 3.3 Centering / 47

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just developing yourthickness balls the wheel in and and as with 20 or technique. forms, smoothness forming 30 small of cylindrical of but there and no someone totime you. bottom, clay, and have the need is uniformity and undercut when is a of theto rim. Theredoshould This widening thickness great exercise the opening keep to in a be very This will result in with wider, narrow. classroom little variation in thickness situation. Start a five-
you can take advantage of this force rather lift than having to counteract the form it. When lifting the walls, simply outward and allow
of proceed In what words, andthe clay. with other is left. in lifting and widening a bowl form do not widen the bottom too much initially so that it hangs over the

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Throwing Chapter 3
Figure 3.4 Throwing
a.
Basic throwing: After centering and wheel-wedging, form a dimple and apply water.
b.
Penetrate the lump to create a V-shaped opening.
c.
Widen the bottom using the claw motion, and compress the bottom.
d.
Begin lifting the walls.
e.
Maintain firm, even pressure and steady upwards movement.
f.
Stop lifting just shy of the rim.

Throwing Chapter 3
Figure 3.5 Throwing Cross Sections
a.
Cross sections of basic thrown form: Creating the dimple.
b.
Penetrating the centered lump.
c.
Widening the bottom.

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