Kaoss Pad MIDI Controller

Gareth Lang gazlang@hotmail.com

Controller Functions 1. 2. 3. 4. Reads a 4-wire Resistive Touch Screen Reads a Momentary Push to Make Switch Reads a Program Dial with Momentary Push Switch Sends i2c Data Transformed from Touch Screen Values to a Microchip Controlled LED 5. Sends MIDI Serial Data from Inputs Controller MIDI Output MIDI Channels: The MIDI data for the Kaoss pad is sent on channel 1; while the data for the Digitech whammy pedal is sent on channel 2. Note that a receiver set to pick up MIDI data on channel 1 will ignore data sent to it on channel 2 and vice versa. Therefore the Kaoss pad will not respond to MIDI messages intended for the Digitech whammy because it should only be set to listen on channel 1. This means that both devices can be connected to the controller at the same time using a MIDI thru device. The MIDI channel is changed by pressing the program dial shaft down. On start-up the controller sends on channel 1 (Kaoss pad) and switches to channel 2 (whammy) when the encoder is pressed. A second press switches the channel back to 1. MIDI Data: The controller is set to send MIDI data for the Kaoss pad default control settings. The Digitech whammy pedal will have to be set to channel 2 (see manual), but all other control settings should also be set to default for this device. See below. You can control any MIDI device that is configured to respond to these messages. (NOTE: If your device is not responding to MIDI control from the touch screen controller, then consult your device manual for details on how to check / reset the MIDI settings for the device.) The controller sends the following MIDI data: Channel 1 (default for Kaoss pad) Pad On/Off Pad X Axis Pad Y Axis Program CC92 CC12 CC13 Program C 0 and 127 0-127 0-127 0-127

Channel 2 (default for Digitech Whammy) Pad On/Off Pad X Axis Pad Y Axis Program Control: Kaoss Pad Channel 1. The touch screen read by the controller sends MIDI CC to control the Kaoss pad similar to the on board screen, allowing remote real time effect control. The momentary push switch allows bypass of the pad off command, thus emulating the hold function The program dial sends program change commands. On start-up the program is set to 1. Turning the encoder shaft clockwise will increment the program, and anticlockwise will decrement the program. The program change will not allow increment above 128 or decrement below 1 (The Kaoss pad 2 only responds to program change commands between 0 and 99, so it is possible to overshoot the program control. If the program dial is no longer effecting program change, the turn it anti-clockwise until the program decrements). Pressing the shaft of the program dial down will change the MIDI output to channel 2 and the Kaoss pad will no longer respond to the inputs. Digitech Whammy Channel 2. The X axis of the touch screen will control the treadle position. The left extreme of the X axis corresponds to a toe up position, and the right extreme to a toe down position. The whammy does not respond to Y axis data, but has been included for use with other devices. The momentary push switch allows bypass of the effect off command, thus emulating a hold function The program dial sends program change commands. On start-up the program is set to 1. Turning the encoder shaft clockwise will increment the program, and anticlockwise will decrement the program. The program change will not allow increment above 128 or decrement below 1. However, the whammy pedal only responds to program change commands between 1 and 33, so it is possible to overshoot the program control. If the program dial is no longer effecting program change, the turn it anti-clockwise until the program decrements Pressing the shaft of the program dial down will change the MIDI output to channel 1 and the whammy pedal will no longer respond to the inputs. LED Response When the touch screen is not being pressed the controller sends a message over an i2c link to the LED chip to run a pre-recorded program that has the effect of a mood light. This will make the LED cycle through random hues with low brightness and a slow fade speed. CC0 CC11 CC10 Program C 0 and 127 0-127 0-127 (Not used by whammy pedal) 0-127

When the touch screen is pressed then the controller sends alternating red green and blue commands to the LED with a change in touch screen values. Once the touch screen has been released then the controller tells the LED chip to resume the mood light program. The LED also responds to the momentary switch. The LED will switch to a bright pulsing hue cycle when the momentary switch is pressed and the hold function is active. When the momentary switch is pressed and the hold function is ceased, then the LED will return to the mood light program. Set Up The touch screen connector is pre-wired to the controller; however, the hold switch, program dial, MIDI socket and jack socket will require connection on installation. These are fed by the 8 core cable from the controller. The core of the cable are connected as follows red black green blue white yellow brown orange To positive battery terminal (via on/off switch) To ground terminals* To MIDI socket pin 4 To MIDI socket pin 5 To hold switch terminal To program dial switch terminal To program dial terminal 2 To program dial terminal 1

*A grounding wire (not supplied) is required to connect a terminal of the switch and program dial switch, and program dial common pin (2) and MIDI socket ground pin (2) to the jack socket. See circuit diagram below.

Fig.1. The above circuit diagram details the required connections. The above circuit diagram details the required connections. Connection to each component requires soldering. You will need a steady hand and have some soldering proficiency to avoid connecting adjacent pins with excess solder. If you are not confident with a soldering iron then ask someone who is more experienced to carry out this work. The switch and MIDI socket have plastic moulds to secure the pins. The plastic is easily melted by excessive exposure to the soldering iron. Be careful not to pull the wires away from the controller box. The solder connections to the controller board are light, and may be easily broken if excessive force is applied. Please follow the wiring instructions carefully, step by step.

MIDI Socket: The MIDI socket has 5 pins (viewed from the solder tags at the rear, fig.1). The pins are arranged as (clockwise from the bottom left): 3, 5, 2, 4, 1 Such that pin 2 is the top pin (as fig.1) Connect pin 4 to the GREEN core wire Connect pin 5 to the BLUE core wire Connect pin 2 to the BLACK core wire and with a grounding wire (not supplied). Pins 3 and 1 are not used. Hold button: The hold button (Switch, fig1) has 2 pins. These pins do not have a specific polarity. Connect one of these pins to the WHITE core wire. Connect the other to the grounding wire Program dial: The program dial as viewed from the bottom (pin side) (fig.1) has a set of 3 pins along one edge and 2 pins along the opposite edge. The 3 grouped pins are for the encoder element. These pins do have a polarity. With the three pins along the top edge, they are arranged from left to right as pin 1, 2 and 3 (as fig.1) Connect the left hand pin 1 to the ORANGE core wire Connect the centre pin 2 with the grounding wire Connect the right hand pin 3 to the BROWN core wire The 2 grouped pins are for the push switch element. These pins do not have a specific polarity. Connect one of these pins to the YELLOW core wire Connect the other with grounding wire Jack Socket / Battery: The jack socket as viewed from the solder tags at the rear (fig.1) has 4 tags. The tag connecting to the centre ring (seen at the bottom on fig.1) should receive the grounding wire. This tag should also receive the ground wire from the pickups. The top left tag should receive the HOT wire from the pickups. The top centre tag is left unused. The top right tag should be connected to the Negative (-) black wire of the battery clip. Connect the RED core wire to the positive (+) red wire of the battery clip. A 9v battery must be used to power the controller. Make sure each wire is connected to the correct component and correct pin. Double check this before connecting the battery as incorrect wiring could damage or destroy the controller.

Touch Screen: 4.7 touch screen.

The touch screen (viewed from the face side: the white paper cover on the ribbon cable should be facing up. fig.1) has 4 electrodes, one on each side, and 4 corresponding conductive strips on a ribbon cable. The connector (supplied) is shown from the pin side (pins facing up, fig.1). The ribbon cable must be inserted into the connector such that the side of the ribbon bearing the conductive strips faces away from the pin side of the connector. Start Up When using a stereo socket, the controller will turn on automatically with insertion of a MONO jack (use of a stereo jack will not work). On each start-up the user should touch each corner to properly calibrate the screen. This is not essential, as the screen will still operate (without noticeable inaccuracies) and will become properly calibrated as its used.

Routing You should have a luthier do all routing work for you if you are not confident and experienced in using a router. Place the screen frame on your guitar below the bridge and mark its position (on masking tape) when centred and properly aligned. Mark the screw positions with a centre punch. You can then remove the frame and drill the screw holes (It may be difficult to do this after routing the cavity). The routed cavity for the 4.7 screen should be about 94mm x 118mm and about 7mm deep. Mark this out in the centre of the marked frame position (I recommend that you make a router template and a use a template following bit as the route needs to be very accurately cut). The route will overlap the screw holes. Make sure the route overlaps each screw hole evenly. If it does not then later insertion of the screws may crack the screen or frame. The centre of the cavity will need to be routed at around 30mm deep such as to allow seating of the controller such that the tip of the LED does not touch the back of the touch screen. The further from the touch screen the LED is the more even the light spread across the screen. NOTE: You must retain the 7mm deep shelf all around the cavity to support the screen. Use double sided adhesive foam under the touch screen backing plate in thin strips around the outside edge to ensure the top of the screen is pressed tightly to the frame fascia.

The above diagram shows a cross section of a routed cavity for the touch screen in a guitar. The controller may be placed in the centre of this cavity and screwed down. The bottom of the cavity should be about 1cm from the back of the guitar to prevent the screws emerging on the other side.

The above image shows the kit installed on a telecaster type guitar. The touch screen cavity is joined to the main control cavity using an 8mm long series drill bit. The hold button (push switch) requires a 15mm bore. I recommend a forstner or brad point type bit to avoid chipping the surrounding paint. You can drill this to a depth of 3cm and join the main control cavity to this bore using a long series drill bit (drilling from the control cavity side). The switch will press fit into the bore without the need to access the rear. The MIDI socket requires a 15mm bore. The bore should be about 3cm deep, and you can again drill through to the main cavity using a smaller bit. Here the program dial replaces the tone pot on the standard cavity plate. If not using a pre-drilled plate, then the program dial will require a 7mm bore. A battery box has been installed on the rear of the guitar. Shielding Poor shielding will result in a noticeable rapid clicking sound through the guitar amplifier when using the screen. The touch screen is essentially a large pulsing electrode as far as your pickups are concerned. You will need to shield the touch screen cavity from emitting electrostatic noise (e.g. with conductive paint or copper sheet) and make sure the shielding is connected to ground. You should cut the controller wires to size (cut them a touch longer than you need just in case you cut the wire when skinning the ends). If you have them coiled in your switch cavity then they may induce noise into your guitar output.