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Bitscope Designs Suite 1A2, 410 Elizabeth St. Surry Hills NSW 2010 Australia
T able of Contents
1 Parts Identification __________ 1
1.1 Before You Begin___________ 1 1.2 Kit Contents _______________ 1 1.3 Special Parts_______________ 2 3.9 LED Indicators ____________15 3.10 Mounting Spock ________15 3.11 ICs and SRAMs _________16 3.12 Final Assembly ___________16
2 Changes ___________________ 5
2.1 PCB Errata _______________ 5 2.2 R3 Change ________________ 5 2.3 R25 Value _________________ 5 2.4 C27 Modification ___________ 5 2.5 A/D Module _______________ 6
2.5.1 Both Exar and TI A/D Modules_ 6 2.5.2 TI ADC5540 A/D Module Only 6 2.5.3 Exar 8786 A/D Module Only___ 6
4 Calibration________________ 18
4.1 Burn-In___________________18 4.2 Channel A/B Zero Offset ____18
4.2.1 Channel A ________________ 18 4.2.2 Channel B_________________ 18
2.6 Crystal Speed ______________ 8 2.7 ICSP Connector____________ 8 2.8 Reset Connector____________ 8 2.9 Capacitors C56, C57, C59____ 8 2.10 Trimpots_________________ 9
5 Tips _____________________ 20
5.1 Special Parts First __________20 5.2 Clean Component Leads ____20 5.3 Removing a Misplaced Part __20 5.4 Additional DIP Sockets______20 5.5 Power Supply______________21 5.6 Serial Port Cable ___________21 5.7 Logic Analyzer Cable _______21 5.8 Carry Case ________________21
3 Parts Placement____________ 10
3.1 Where the Special Parts Go _ 10 3.2 Proper Parts Placement ____ 10 3.3 Changes and Errata _______ 10 3.4 Oscillator and Crystal ______ 12 3.5 Voltage Regulators ________ 12 3.6 Passive Components _______ 14 3.7 Transistors _______________ 14 3.8 End Panels _______________ 14
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1 Parts Identification
This section explains how to correctly identify the parts in the kit.
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In order to avoid misplaced parts; take the time to positively identify everything before assembly is started. Print a copy of the Schematic and Bill of Materials to help identify the parts and assist in placing them on the board. Make note of any changes listed in the Changes section of this manual and the Notice to Kit Builders supplied with the kit. This is important! A Beginners Guide is included in this manual to assist first-time builders. If this is your first project of this type, take the time to look at this section. It contains important information to help prevent common assembly mistakes. The more experienced builder should have no trouble assembling and calibrating the Bitscope. Be sure to look at the Tips section for some helpful ideas.
The Bitscope Kit-03 contains everything you need to assemble a working Bitscope, while Kit-02 contains everything except for the case and end panels. Note that the Bitscope (without its case) will fit into a 5 drive bay. This could be helpful if used in a dedicated PC application. In either case, you will also have to supply a 12V/1A AC power supply and test leads and probes. Some recommendations may be found in the Tips section. Lets get started!
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Take the main components out of the box, you should have everything shown above (Fig. 1-1).
Some parts are special and must be properly identified. They will be installed first, to avoid confusion later. There are also some parts that should be installed on a specific area of the board, although they will fit somewhere else. Make sure these parts are placed in the indicated positions on the board (refer to Section 3).
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look like resistors and capacitors, but theyre not. Place them first
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must be installed properly to ensure that all cables and Pod Devices may be connected properly. On top is a DB25RA/M (Male), and below it is a DB25RA/F (Female). Make sure they are placed correctly (refer to Section 3).
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2 Changes
This Section Illustrates changes, errata, and optional configurations
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There is only one known PCB errata at this time. The silkscreen legend for C39 is incorrect. The positive (+) lead should be placed next to C37.
2.2 R3 Change
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in place of C27 showing a neat arrangement (the capacitor and resistor shown were not kit parts). Also shown is the A/D Module configuration jumper (JP-3). Place a link or jumper in the positions indicated.
RC Circuit
jumper position (JP-3) near the A/D Module socket (Fig. 2-1).
2.5.2 TI ADC5540 A/D Module Only Perform the following operations when using the TI ADC5540 A/D Module:
1. Omit diodes D5 and D6 from the main board. 2. If using a 50Mhz. oscillator, disable the Clock Doubler circuit (Fig. 2-2). Do this by omitting R11
2.5.3 Exar 8786 A/D Module Only Perform the following operations when using the Exar 8786 A/D Module:
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1. Install diodes D5 and D6 on the main board. 2. Solder two 100nF capacitors to the bottom of the main board between pins 11/12 and 16/17
3. Disable the Clock Doubler circuit. Do this by omitting R11 from the main board, and adding a
link in place of C54 (Fig. 2-2). It is not recommended to run the Exar ADC with a clock rate higher than 25Mhz.
The Clock Doubler disabled notice the link in place of C54 (R11 is omitted also).
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The two 100 nF capacitors are only necessary when using the Exar 8786 A/D Module.
The In-Circuit Serial Programming connector (JP-1) is not necessary. There is a place for it on the main board, but this is simply left unpopulated.
The Reset connector (JP-2) is not necessary. There is a place for it on the main board, but this is simply left unpopulated.
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2.10 Trimpots
Some trimpot values are different from the schematic. The new values are as follows:
1. RV-1 5K 2. RV-2 500
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3 Parts Placement
This section will show where to place the parts on the main board.
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After identifying the special parts (refer to Section 1), they must be properly placed on the board. Use the picture in this section (Fig. 3-1) as a guide.
A few parts must be placed in the right spot, although they might fit somewhere else. Use the picture in this section (Fig. 3-1) as a guide.
Some changes have been made to the design to accommodate the new A/D module, as well as to improve the performance. Refer to Section 2: Changes for details regarding important updates and amendments.
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3 5
1 9 7 8 2 4
1. Fuse 1- 500mA Poly Fuse (Fig. 1-2). 2. Fuse 2 - 500mA Poly Fuse (Fig. 1-2). 3. L1- Inductor: 150uH Axial RF Choke (Fig. 1-2). 4. L2- Inductor: 150uH Axial RF Choke (Fig. 1-2). 5. C32- Capacitor: 100NF 63V MKT Poly 5mm (Fig. 1-3). 6. C34- Capacitor: 100NF 63V MKT Poly 5mm (Fig. 1-3). 7. DB25RA/M Connector (Fig. 1-5). 8. DB25RA/F Connector (Fig. 1-5). 9. RN1 Pin 1 Position (Fig. 1-4).
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The Oscillator and Crystal must be carefully mounted. The oscillator has one square corner that indicates pin 1. The Crystal should lay flat (bend the leads) and a piece of bus wire may be used to secure it to the board (Fig. 3-2).
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Insulating Washer
A Voltage Regulator showing how to bend the leads and install the insulating washer.
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Voltage Regulators
placed on the main board showing proper hardware installation. The nuts must be on top or one of them will interfere with the Analog Ground Jack.
3.7 Transistors
Notice that there are three BC558 PNP transistors and three BC548 NPN transistors. Dont mix them up! Dont confuse them with the four JFETs either.
Before installing the end panels, make sure all of the connectors and switches are placed. Test fit the end panels into the case (some filing may be necessary). The end panels are used to help align the LEDs, so make sure theyre ready to go in. Use the connectors to hold the end panel to the main board assembly and proceed to solder the LEDs in place.
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Be very careful when mounting Spock (the Lattice chip). Make sure you know where pin 1 is both on the chip and on the socket (Fig.s 3-6, 3-7)!
Pin 1
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Install any loose chips in their sockets and check the board for any unsoldered leads, or empty pads. Finally, install the five standoffs to the board snugly. Slide the main assembly into the case and tighten all five screws. Remove the screws and the main assembly, and tighten the standoff screws securely. The Board is now ready to be calibrated before re-installing it in the case.
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The finished Main Board showing everything but the end panels.
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4 Calibration
This section describes calibrating the Bitscope
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4.1 Burn-In
Before attempting to calibrate your Bitscope, check for any solder bridges or shorts on the main board. Make sure each chip is properly installed (polarity) and all the leads are soldered. As a safety precaution, you might want to leave the PIC and the Lattice chip out, and power up the circuit. Check for proper voltage on the supply and ground leads of all the ICs. Check the regulators and verify both supply rail voltages. If all is well, install the PIC and Lattice chip, and let the circuit run for about a half an hour. This will not only prove the circuits integrity, but will also allow the chips and FETs to reach operating temperature.
Using a DVM put the ground lead on the AGND Test Point (near the A/D socket). You dont need to ground the input BNCs because theyre pulled down with 1M resistors internally. 4.2.1 Channel A Adjust RV-3 to get zero volts on U23 pin 6.
4.3.1 ADC Span Adjust RV-2 until there is 1V between Test Points TP-3 and TP-4. 4.3.2 ADC Mid Point Adjust RV-1 until there is zero volts between Test Points TP-5 and TP-4.
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The last thing to do is connect the Bitscope to a PC and verify operation. Check the Bitscope Web-site for the latest software. Make sure the software can read the firmware ID from the Bitscope, then initiate a trace. If all is well you will be rewarded with a display of data on the screen. As you work with the Bitscope, you will begin to appreciate the elegance of the design. By using the Pod interface, it is possible to adapt the Bitscope to work with a wide range of signals. You now have a truly valuable piece of equipment at your disposal.
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5 Tips
This section includes tips and ideas for working with the Bitscope.
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It is recommended that all the special parts are identified and placed first. This will eliminate the possibility of an improperly identified part being installed in the wrong place. Building a kit is like a multiple-choice test- it is impossible to get only one wrong answer!
It is a good idea to clean the component leads with some Scotch-Brite before installing them. This will ensure a good solder joint with maximum reliability.
While sockets are supplied with the kit for the PIC, the A/D Module and the PLD, you may want to add one for the 74HC573 (20 DIP). This would allow changing to a 74HCT573 (TTL compatible) should the need arise. It is also a good idea to socket the SRAM chips (28 SDIP).
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A simple Logic Analyzer Cable may be used to access the Bitscope Logic Analyzer Function. The connection point is of course the 25-pin POD connector. All you need are the connectors and some wire. A DB25RA/F connector and hood make up the Bitscope interface. For the target interface, Mouser Electronics has some test clips (# 13IC309) which work well. Some heat shrink tubing may be used as a sheath for the wiring. One word of caution: There is no current limit / clamping protection in the Bitscope.
To make your Bitscope and test leads more portable, you may want to look at All Electronics part CAT# CSE-17. Its a low cost Leatherette case that will carry the Bitscope, Wall-plug Power Supply, and test leads in style.
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6 Beginners Guide
This section includes help for first-time builders.
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When working with CMOS parts, it is important to prevent Electro Static Discharge. This is easily accomplished by using an Anti-Static ground strap. The strap usually fits around the wrist, and is connected to a reliable ground source through a long lead. ESD is caused by two objects having different amounts of stored electrical energy. It occurs more commonly in dry weather, but may in fact happen at any time. The way the ground strap eliminates this is by removing any potential electrical energy from your body. It is also a good idea to work on an Anti-Static mat if possible. This ensures that the components are protected from ESD while theyre on the bench.
Soldering is one of the fundamental skills required to assemble electronic devices. The most important requirements of a good solder joint are:
1. Clean components. 2. Clean soldering iron. 3. Correct type of iron 4. Correct solder for the application (size and composition). 5. Sufficient, but not excessive heat applied to the joint. 6. Correct amount of solder (not excessive). 7. Proper cooling procedure.
All of these elements combine to determine the integrity of the solder joint. Here are some guidelines:
1. Clean component leads with Scotch-Brite before placing the component.
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2. Make sure the soldering iron tip is properly tinned and kept clean at all times (use a wet
sponge).
3. Use a 25 35 Watt iron for most assembly work. Be careful if using a 35-Watt iron on small
leads because heat will build up quickly. Too small of an iron is not good either because it requires the heat to be applied for a long time before the solder starts to flow.
4. Use electronic grade .032 60/40 Rosin core solder. 5. Heat both the component and the pad with the tip of the iron. A pointed tip works best for
fine work. Dont apply the heat for more than 5 seconds.
6. Apply only enough solder to cover the pad and the lead.
6.3 Polarity
Many components must be installed with reference to polarity. Some do not. Generally ICs, some Capacitors, Diodes, LEDs, and Oscillators must be placed with regard to polarity. Resistors and Inductors dont. Heres how to identify the polarity of some components:
1. ICs have a dot near pin 1 or a notch on the end where pin 1 is located (left side). The
socket they go into, or the silkscreen on the board also has a notch or mark on the end where pin 1 goes. marked. If there are no markings, then the capacitor is non-polar; meaning it can be installed either way.
2. Capacitors are always marked if they are polarized. Either the negative or the positive lead is
3. Diodes have a band to mark the cathode. This is the negative (-) lead, or the lead the arrow
4. LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) have two ways to identify polarity. A new LED has one long
lead and one shorter lead. The long lead is the anode (+). This only works, of course, unless the leads have been cut! The best way to polarize an LED is by looking at the body of the LED. The flat spot on the body is next to the cathode (-) lead (Fig. 6-1).
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All resistors use the standard color code to determine their tolerance and value. The main difference is that precision resistors (like the ones supplied with the Bitscope kit) have an extra band in the value field. Where a normal resistor has two significant digits, then a zero multiplier value, a precision resistor has three significant digits. This can sometimes cause confusion even for experienced engineers! Heres an example to help: 5% 100 Ohm resistor: Brown, Black, Brown, Gold. Two significant digits = 10 plus 1 zero. Gold is the tolerance band. A precision 100-Ohm resistor reads: Brown, Black, Black, Black, (Red). Three significant digits = 100 plus no (0) zeros. Red would be the tolerance band. If theres any doubt, verify your assumptions with a Digital Voltmeter.
6.4 Resistors
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