MATERIALS Yarn: 4 ply worsted weight yarn. Made with double strands.

You hold two strands of the yarn together while working the pattern. I bought large skeins, 170 g and had enough left over for a few more pairs. So I am not exactly sure about how much yarn is required. Hook: 6.00 mm (J hook) Abbreviations used: ch - chain ss - slip stitch (the standard abbreviation is sl st, but I like to use "ss" as it's faster to type.) sc - single crochet dc - double crochet hdc - half double crochet tog - together

SIZE: These will fit a foot of 9 and 1/2 inches. GAUGE: 2 sts = approximately 3/4 inch I have tips in blue throughout the pattern for making a smaller or larger pair. Please note that I have not tested the pattern using smaller or larger sizes. I am only going by my gauge. The numbers for different sizes will be in blue and listed in this order (Extra Small, Small, Large, Extra Large) [NOTE: For the Extra Large, Melanie found that it didn't work out with my estimate, so scroll down below the pattern for Melanie's adjustments.] You can go even smaller by starting with 2 less chs than the extra small size. As well you can go even larger by starting with 2 chs more than the extra large size. But I have only included those sizes above. Once you see how the sizes go and figure out the desired foot size by the gauge, you should be able to do this on your own. Working with 2 strands of yarn held together, Ch 20 (16, 18, 22, 24) RND 1 - 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook. 1 sc in next 9 chs (7, 8, 10, 11), 1 hdc in next ch, 1 dc in next 6 chs (4, 5, 7, 8) 2 dc in next ch, 5 dc in last ch. Working down the other side of the chain make 2dc in next ch, 1 dc in next 6 chs (4, 5, 7, 8), 1 hdc in next ch, 1 sc in next 10 chs (8, 9, 11, 12), ss to join to first sc. Do not turn.

RND 2 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 sts (7, 8, 10, 11), 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next 10 sts (8, 9, 11, 12), 2 dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 10 sts (8, 9, 11, 12), 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 sts (7, 8, 10, 11), ss to join to first sc. Do not turn. RND 3 - Ch 1 and 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 20 sts (18, 19, 21, 22), 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 20 sts (18, 19, 21, 22), 2 sc in last st, ss to join to first st. Do not turn. RND 4 - This round makes a turning ridge for the sides. Working through the front loops only, ch 1, 1 ss in each st all around, pick up two strands of the color you are going to be using for the rest of the slipper, then ss to join, ch 2, TURN. (Tips: Do not make your slip stitches too tight.) If you are changing colors, do it here. (You can do the whole slippers in one color or use whatever colors you want.) Pick up the new color and continue: SIDES (Tip: whenever you turn your work, begin in the first st, not the slip stitch where you joined on the previous round.) RND 1 - Through back loops only for this RND, 1 dc only of the next 18 sts (16, 17, 19, 20), 1 hdc in the the next st, 1 sc in next 19 sts (17, 18, 20, 21), 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next 18 sts (16, 17, 19, 20), ss to join to first st, ch 2, turn. RND 2 - Through both loops 1 dc in next 17 sts (15, 16, 18, 19), 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 20 sts (18, 19, 21, 22), 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next 17 sts (15, 16, 18, 19), ss to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (56 sts) (48, 52, 60, 64) RND 3 - Through both loops, 1 dc in next 11 sts (9, 10, 12, 13), 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 ss through back loops only in next 28 sts (don't make them too tight) (24, 26, 30, 32), through both loops again make 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next 11 sts (9, 10, 12, 13), ss to join to first st, ch 1, turn. RND 4 -Through both loops, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sts (6, 8, 12, 14), through back loops make 1 ss in next 30 sts (26, 28, 32, 34), through both loops again make 1 sc in next 10 sts (6, 8, 12, 14), 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next st, ss to join to first sc, fasten off. TOP OF SLIPPER I have a few photos for Rows 1 and 2 to help you get started. The rest of the rows will follow the same pattern so I didn't put up anymore photos. Note: For smaller slippers you may have to leave OFF a Row or two, but do follow Row 7 for crocheting all around the slipper and you will have less dc on the top because of leaving off a row or two. For larger slippers, you may have to do a Row or two extra before you do Row 7. ROW 1 - With toe end facing you, find the 7 slip stitches at the center front of the top edge of the toe end. Beginning on right hand side, join yarn with a a slip stitch in back (inside) loop of the first of the 7 central slip stitches, as in photo below.

Skip the next ss, 1 hdc in next ss, 1 dc in next ss, 1 hdc in next ss as in photo below.

skip the next ss on the top edge, ss through the back (inside) loop of the next ss on the top edge, ss through the back (inside) loop of the next 2 ss as in photo below, turn.

ROW 2 - Through both loops make 1 dc in the next hdc, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next hdc, 1 dc in the joining ss on top edge of the previous row, as in photo below.

Skip next ss on top edge, join with a ss to the inside loop of next ss on top edge, as in photo below,

ss through the inside loops of the next 2 ss of top edge as in photo below, turn. (4 dc)

ROW 3 - 1 dc in next 4 dc, 1 dc in the joining ss on top edge of the previous row. Skip next ss on inside top edge, ss through inside loops of next ss on top edge, ss in next two inside loops on top edge, turn. (5 dc) ROW 4 - 1 dc in next 5 dc, 1 dc in the joining ss on top edge of the previous row. Skip next ss on top edge, 1 ss through inside loops of next ss on top edge, 1 ss through inside loop of next 2 sts on top edge, turn. (6 dc) ROW 5 - 1 dc in next 6 dc, 1 dc in the joining ss on top edge of the previous row. Skip next ss on top edge, 1 ss through inside loops of next 2 sts on top edge, turn. (7 dc) ROW 6 - 1 dc in next 7 dc, skip next st on top edge, 1 ss through inside loops of next 2 sts on top edge, turn. ROW 7 - This will actually be a ROUND as you will be going across the top and around the whole slipper and then across the top again. 1 sc in each of the 7 dc, 1 ss through inside loop of next st on the top edge. (Now continue around the foot opening) 1 ss through BOTH loops in each sc all around. Join with a ss to the inside

loop of the same st at the beginning of this Row. 1 ss through both loops of the 7 sc across the top, join with a ss through the inside loop of the the next st, fasten off. Melanie's Adjustments for the Extra Large Size. Thank you Melanie! The slippers ended up fitting my boyfriend a little loose so i'm going to try and put some laces or a belt on them to tighten them up. So this edit might need a little more work. The edits in the pattern were >only in the "SIDES" part. I changed the base a little but I didn't write it down, I think I just added 1 sc in one of the rows. I put in red what I changed. Some of the rows look like the size down but some of them don't. SIDES (Tip: whenever you turn your work, begin in the first st, not the slip stitch where you joined on the previous round.) (you start the sides with 63 sts and decrease 1 in the next round) RND 1 - Through back loops only for this RND, 1 dc only of the next 18 sts (16, 17, 19, 20), 1 hdc in the the next st, 1 sc in next 19 sts (17, 18, 20, 20), 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next 18 sts (16, 17, 19, 20), ss to join to first st, ch 2, turn. (62 sts total) RND 2 - Through both loops 1 dc in next 17 sts (15, 16, 18, 19), 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 20 sts (18, 19, 21, 22), 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next 17 sts (15, 16, 18, 19), ss to join to first dc, ch 2, turn. (56 sts) (48, 52, 60, 62) RND 3 - Through both loops, 1 dc in next 11 sts (9, 10, 12, 13), 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 ss through back loops only in next 28 sts (don't make them too tight) (24, 26, 30, 30), through both loops again make 1 sc in next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in next 11 sts (9, 10, 12, 13), ss to join to first st, ch 1, turn. (62 sts total) RND 4 -Through both loops, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next 10 sts (6, 8, 12, 12), through back loops make 1 ss in next 30 sts (26, 28, 32, 32), through both loops again make 1 sc in next 10 sts (6, 8, 12, 12), 2 sc tog, 1 sc in next st, ss to join to first sc, fasten off. (60 sts total)

Crocheted Soccasins A Free Pattern by Megan Mills

Crocheted Soccasins by Megan Mills

Experience Level: Experienced or Adventurous Size: Approximately 14 cm long and 11cm tall with the sock folded down as illustrated. Materials 2 x 50g balls of brown double knitting wool 1 x 50g ball of cream 4-ply baby wool 3.5mm crochet hook (or size to acquire gauge) 3mm crochet hook (or size to acquire gauge) Wool needle to tidy away ends Gauge on Foot section From the top of one ridge to the top of the 3rd ridge above it (measuring 4 ridge lines) is 2.2cm. 10 stitches is 4.5cm

Gauge on Sock section Unstretched 5 rows (which will look like three lines of Vs) is 1cm. 10 stitches is 3.5cm.

Abbreviations ch chain cg close the gap - see Notes below dc double crochet (US single crochet) decrease = (insert hook in next st and draw through a loop) x 2, yoh, dec draw through all loops on hook. jdc joining double crochet (US single crochet) - see Notes below. ss slip stitch sj special join - see Notes below sp space st stitch x times yoh yarn over hook
Special Notes Check at the end of each round that you have the right number of stitches. Work into the back loops of all stitches and chains unless instructed otherwise. Always turn clockwise as viewed from looking down on your work. The back ridge is the line of bumps on the back of a chain, as opposed to the smooth chain on the front. When you have turned and started a new round do not skip the first dc, work into it. The foot is worked in rounds but you turn after joining each round using a Special Join: This manoeuvre takes a lot of words to describe but is quick to do. It moves the working yarn from one side of the work to the other. When you turn and work you will get a much tidier result than the usual method. 1. Insert hook under both loops of first dc of the round and pull through a loop. 2. Withdraw hook from that loop. 3. Leaving a little of the working yarn loose in the back bring working yarn under hook between the dropped loop and the loop on the hook. 4. Reinsert the hook in the dropped loop and pull that loop through the other loop on the hook. 5. Holding the loose working yarn at the back firmly pull up the modified slip stitch you have just done very firmly so it is tiny. 6. Pull on the loose yarn at the back to firm up the loop on the hook. 7. Pull on the working yarn at the front to pull all the loose yarn through.

A video demonstration of this special join is available here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5gkHQ22M4M or if you are viewing this pattern online then the video is embedded below: When working the instep of the foot section you will be working short rows and will need to Close the Gap: Insert hook through the ss before the 1st turn, insert hook through the st the ss was worked into on the side of the foot, yoh, draw through two loops on hook. When joining the cuff section to the side of the foot you will use a Joining Double Crochet: Insert hook in last dc of row and draw through a loop, insert hook through next free st on side of foot, yoh, draw through all loops on hook. Instructions Sole Use Double Knitting Wool and 3.5mm hook. Ch 19 slightly loosely. Remember to work in the back loops. Round 1 (wrong side): 1dc into 2nd ch from hook, 16dc, 3dc in last ch. Do not turn, work down other side of chain, 16dc, 2dc in same ch as first dc of round, sj. TURN. (38dc) Round 2: 1ch, 1 dc in first st, 2dc in next st, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, 2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st (the same space as the first dc of the rnd), sj. TURN. (44dc) Round 3: 1ch, 44dc, sj in top of first dc of round, TURN. (44dc) Round 4: 1ch, (2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (56 dc) Round 5: 1ch, 56dc, sj. TURN. (56dc) Round 6: 1ch, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 6, 16dc, (1dc in next st, 2dc in next st) x 3, sj. TURN. (68 dc) Side of Foot Rounds 7 to 11 inclusive: 1ch, 68dc, sj. TURN. (68 dc) Instep Round 12: 1ch, 26dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 25 dc, sj. TURN. Round 13: 1ch, 34dc, cg, 25dc, sj. TURN. (60dc) Round 14: 1ch, 22dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 21 dc, sj. TURN.

Round 15: 1ch, 30dc, cg, 21dc, sj. TURN. (52dc) Ballet Slipper Stage complete. Round 16: 1ch, 18dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 17 dc, sj. TURN. Round 17: 1ch, 26dc, cg, 17dc, sj. TURN. (44dc) Slipper Stage complete. Round 18: 1ch, 14dc, dec 8, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, ss in next st, TURN, 1ch, ss in last ss, 8dc, cg, 13 dc, sj. TURN. Round 19: 1ch, 22dc, cg, 13dc, sj. TURN. (36dc) Soccasin Stage complete. Cuff 1 is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you) Remember to work in the back loops. 12ch. Row 1: dc into back loop of second ch from hook, 9 dc, jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN. Row 2: 11dc. Row 3: Insert hook from far-side to near-side in front loop of last dc worked (as it faces you). Turn the work clockwise. Yoh and pull through one loop on hook, yoh and pull through both loops on hook. 9 dc, 1jdc, ss into next st on side of foot. TURN. Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have done 18 rows (you will be at the centre front of the foot). Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end. Cuff 2 is joined down the right side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you) Row 1: Join in new yarn in the next free dc to the right of the centre back. Work 11 dc into 'back ridge' of beginning chain so that an outline stitch line is made up the centre back. Rows 2 and 3 are like 3 and 2 for Cuff 1 but when you work into the dcs on the side of the foot you will work into the front loops as they face you. This will make the join symmetrical with the first half of the cuff. Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have worked 18 rows. TURN. Join first three sts at bottom of cuff split together by slip stitching through the back loops on Cuff 2 and the front loops on Cuff 1. Fasten off and leave a tail to weave in at the end. Cuff Trim Remember to work in the back loops. Round 1: Join yarn at centre back of cuff and work around left side (if looking down on the foot with the toe pointing away from you). 1dc for each ridge and 1 dc for each valley to next corner - being careful to pick up just 1 thread at the top edge to prevent holes in the work. End on a valley. In same stitch work 1ch,

1dc (so that corner st has 1dc, 1ch, 1dc worked into it). Work down split in cuff: 7 dc, 2ss (the 2nd ss goes where you joined the 3 sts at the bottom of the cuff split). Work up the other side of the split in the cuff: 2ss (the 1st ss goes where joined the 3sts at the bottom of the cuff split), 7dc. (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) into top of first ridge, work 1dc for each valley and 1dc for each ridge to the end of the round, sj in first dc of the round. TURN. Round 2: 1ch, 1dc in each st to corner, in corner ch work (1dc, 1ch, 1dc). For split in cuff: 8dc, ss, skip 2 sts, ss, 8dc. (1dc, 1ch, 1dc) in corner ch, 1dc in each st to end of round. Break thread and join invisibly to first dc of the round. Tidy away all ends. The Sock is joined down the left side of the foot (looking down on it with the toe pointing away from you) It is important that you keep your slip stitches an even size. It is very easy to do them progressively tighter and tighter. Aim to give each ss the whole amount of thread required to go around the hook. With the soccasin right side out fold the cuff completely down to expose, below where the cuff was attached, a line of loops at the top of the last ridge. You will attach the sock into these loops. Use 4-ply baby yarn and a 3mm hook. Attach the yarn at centre back (leaving a tail to tidy away later) and do 26 ch slightly loosely. TURN. If you want a longer or shorter sock change the starting chain. Row 1: 1ss into the top loop of the 2nd ch from the hook, 24ss into the top loops of the chain, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Row 2: Skip the ss you did to join to the inside of the foot, 25ss through the back loops, 1ch, TURN. Row 3: Do not skip 1st ss, 25ss through the backloops, ss into the next loop on the inside of the foot, TURN. Be careful not to the first ss of the row too tightly you are going to be working into it on the way back. Repeat rows 2 and 3 all the way around. After you have done a few rows check that, when viewed from the outside, the beginning chain has the bottom half of the 'right side' of the chain facing outwards, not the bumpy back of the chain. If the bumps are facing outward you have joined incorrectly at the end of your first row and will not be able to get a really nice seam at the end. After a few rows turn the whole soccasin inside out it will be easier to join in the sock. A couple of rows before you have gone all the way around turn it the right way out again.

When you have gone all the way around and have just done a Row 3 you will finish by doing a ss under the free bottom loops of your beginning chain where two loops cross and the corresponding back loop of your last row to make the final seam. Make sure you do go under two threads of the beginning chain and not just one. Fasten off and tidy away all ends. Make yourself another one to match and enjoy. You might like to play with stripes on these soccasins - the socks especially will look effective because the stripes will be vertical (and so easy to do). Have a little play with the sock. Isn't that beautifully elastic? It looks like a gorgeous 1x1 knitted ribbing but is much more elastic than any rib I've ever knitted, even crossed or 2x2. If you are a knitter you might like to consider substituting it for the usual knitted cuff on a sleeve.