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Contents
Step 1: Gathering the Parts and Tools 3 Step 2: Assembling the SR-06 Circuit 8 Step 3: Main Board: diaodes, resistors and Sockets 10
Step 4: Main Board: Everything but the kitchen sink 11 Step 5: The Display and Keyboard:everything but the kitchen sink Step 6: Test it twice make it nice, And the Kitchen Sink Step 7: Making the Output decoder Circuit 19 21 15 14
Step 8: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Sockets and Jumpers Step 9: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Wires 24
Step 10: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Diodes,Transistors, and a Soleinoid Step 12: Deciding on a phrase and programming the machine 30 Step 13: Finding a place to hide the darn thing. Step 14: Building the box: How it will work Step 15: Building the Box: Tube 3 33 32 31
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Step 16: Building the Box: Tube 2 : The Latch 35 Step 17: Building the Box: Tube 2 : The Bracket Step 18: Building the Box: Tube 2: Finishing up 37 39 41
Step 19: Building the Box:Tube 1: Connecting to Tube 2 Step 20: Building the Box:Tube 1: Finishing Up 42
Step 21: Putting it in its Final resting place: Hiding IT. and mark IT Upload it 43 If you build it they will come 44
TOOLS: For the Electronics: Soldering Iron Philps Screwdriver Wire cutters Wire strippers Pliars Solder For the box Saw Drill Meausring tool Screw driver Sharpie wrenches Skills: How to solder: How to read a schematic: Must be good at hiding stuff:
IC2 - SRAM 8K X 8
U2/SRAM
1 2 16 1
IC3 - 74LS373 IC4 & IC5 - 4511 220 Ohm 1/8 watt resistors XTAL 3.75 MHz
U3 / 74LS373 U4 / 7448/4511 & U5 / 7448/4511 U6/220 ohm & U7/220 ohm XTA
Keypad PCB
1 12
PC Mounted Switch
ON/OFF
7-Segment Displays
Quantity 1
Designator
9V Battery Snap
Coin Battery holder BAT 2032 (I have highlighted the plus and minus to make you aware that this piece is polarized) 100k 1/4 Watt Resistor 330 Ohm 1/4 Watt Resistor 6.8 K 1/4 Watt Resistor 22K 1/4 Watt Resistor .1 uF Capacitor R3 R4 R1 R2 C2
1 1 1 1 1
.0047 uF Capacitor
C4
1 2 1
100 uF Capacitor (47uFcapsee text) .22 pF Capacitor 7805 Voltage Regulator C1 and C5 Q1 7805
Quantity 1
Designator
LED
03 LED
1N914 diodes
D1 AND D2
14 = U8 AND U9
Quantity 1
Designator MIC
1 1 1
WD
B. It is also relevent that the Diodes are made from glass and can break easy so a simple trick for bending the wires without cause to worry is by using a pair ofpliers as a guide.
2. Next add in the resistors using the part charts and the schematic. A. Note that these parts are not polerized so it dosent really matter which direction they face. However it will make it easier on yourself if you come up with some logic and do them all the same. We oriented ours where the gold line was allways on the right side. 3. Next you will add on the sockets using the part charts and the schematic. A. These parts do have a right and wrong way to position them but if you look at the board and the part you will see that there is a notch that matches up .
B. Before putting it on the board make sure every thing looks straight and start with one side at a time instead of trying to insert both sides at once. C. To secure these to the board before you solder them just fold over the corners
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5. 7805 Voltage Regulator: Now this is Polarized and the you want the side with writting to be facing off the board. You will have to gently pull the middle lead foward so that it will fit in the 3 hole set up under Q1 7805. You dont want this one flush on the board the leads should float it of the board just a little.
6. LED: this is another polarized one but here's the trick there is a flat place on the LED that matches the one on the drawing. The LED is another peice that dosent sit on the board just give it a little space before you bend the leads back. 7. Capacitors C1, C2, C4, C5: These also like a lillte breathing room so float them. Just match them up to their homes and bend back the leads with a little room. 8. Capacitor C3: This capacitor is polarized. If you look on the side there is a grey strip with a neg mark, and the longest lead allways means positive so make sure you match it up correctly. It is fine if this one sits flush to the board Go ahead and take a moment to cut of the ends and solder down what you have here These next pieces are easier if you do them one at a time soldering after each peice
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9. The two Position header goes in WD with the long end pointing UP: You will notice that the Jumper goes on top of this 2 pin header. The function of this is to switch between 20 words and 40 words. In our case we wanted to use all 40 words at the shorter length so we left it off in the end. In the pictures we have one side of it sitting on the header this is a good way to store it so it wont get lost if your not sure if you want to use it yet. 10. The mounted switch goes where it says on /off ours was spaced a little to far but the leads flexed enough for us to get it in. 11. The coin battery holder has a plus and minus etched on the top make sure you match those with the drawing and solder it in. 12. Now take your screws nuts and washers and attatch the 9v battery holder ( hint: it goes in the second set of holes behind the on/off switch. 13. The male 7 and 10 pin headers can be put on now too. We went ahead and attached them to the females and tacked the first and last pins so we could get the spacing right. then we took off the females and soldered them all the way down.
14. The Xtal chrystal goes on XTA and needs to be floated it is important not to linger on this one with the soldering iron as you dont want it to get hot. 15. Now for the battery snap We didnt want to cut ours, because we needed the length later, so we just wraped it around a screwdriver to make a snap spring. Then we sodered the red to the positive and the Black to the Negative. (as a side note we had problems with our kit provided snap and it broke the first day in the field I would suggest buying a seperate one that has the hard plastic cap as they seem to hold up better) Hip Hip Hooray are done with the majority of the main board later we will add in the bateries and chips
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Hip Hip Hooray are done with the majority of the main board later we will add in the bateries and chips
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the pin when the battery is installed. If the voltage is 5 volts you do not have switch off. If the voltage is more than 5 volts or a negative voltage disconnect the battery quickly and correct the problem. 12. Continue checking as in the previous step and turn on the switch. As before turn off the switch quickly if something other than 5 volts is read, and correct the problem. 13. Check the other 5 volt supply for all the chips. These are pins 25, 47, and 15 on U1, Pin 28 on U2. Pin 20 on U3. Pin 2 on the 10 pin header. Pin 16 on U4. Pin 16 on U5. 14. Confirm that you do not have 5 volts on the positive terminal of the coin battery connector. (the 5 volts should be blocked by diode D1 ) 15. Turn off the switch and push the 3 volt coin battery far enough into its holder to make connection (if you push it all the way in it is difficult to remove) 16. Confirm that you have approximately three volts on pin 28 of U2 17. Confirm that you do not have 3 volts from the coin battery on the any of the 5 volt pin. (the 3 volts should be blocked by diode D2 ) 18. Remove the coin battery 19. Turn of the switch. If you still confused, dont take a chance remove the 9 volt battery 20. Congratulations it should be safe to put the chips in the sockets now. Be carful to put the chips in facing the correct direction. (The U shaped notch should match up with the notch printed on the board.) Be very carful when installing the chips they have very sharp pins it is easy to poke 10 or more holes in your fingers if you slip while trying to install a chip. (I have included some picture with a few installation tips) 21. Now it is time test the board with the chips in installed. 22. Put the 9 volt battery back in and turn on the switch while monitoring the 5 volts on one of the chip pins. If the voltage is less that 5 volts disconnect the battery quickly, you have probably inserted on of the chips backwards. (Bad very bad) if you were quick and lucky you may be alright. Correct the problem. 23. The LED should turn on when the 9 volt battery in connected and the switch is turned on. 24. The Display should read 00 when the 9 volt battery in connected and the switch is turned on.
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The Output Decoder Circuit is what runs the soleniod. It looks at the numbers that are going on the display board and turns on the output transistor if the number is 1-9 11-19-or 21-29 31-39 the transistor in turn activates the Solenoid. Here is our schematic and some part lists.
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Quanity 1
Item
Universal Component PC Board with 780 Holes Model: 276-168 | Catalog #: 276-168 (\ TIP120 NPN-D Transistor Model: TIP120 | Catalog #: 276-2068 ten pin header ribbon cable cable connectors 20 pin socket 18 pin socket 14 pin sockets IC DECODER CMOS BCD-DEC 16-DIP PART # 2962045-5-ND IC OCT D-TYPE LATCH 20-DIP PART#296-1660-5-ND IC 2-IN OR GATE QUAD 14-DIP PART#296-2062-5-ND IC QUAD 2-IN NAND GATE 14-DIP PART#296-2031-5ND SOLENOID TUBULR 1/2 CONT 12VDC PART#5271024-ND DIODE STD REC 1A 50V DO-41 PART#1N4001GOSND 22 guage solid state wire.
1 1 1
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This is a drawing of the board itself look carefully because it isn't lettered or numbered right. The a-b and b-c have 4 rows between them while D-E and E-f have only 3 rows between them The mumbers are simularly wrong the 5 is on 6 and so on so pay close attention while soldering up your board.
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2.Place the 14 (U3 & U4) 16( (U2) and 20 (U1) sockets on the board. You will want them to straddle the blue and red traces so that you can easily connect to them.
3. Put on the 10 pin header 4. Use wire to make jumpers from the 5vlt to the upper right pin on all four sockets and from the last pin on the lower left side to ground on all four sockets 5. Jumper Header Pin 1 to Ground 6 .From Header pin 2 jumper to one past ground then from one past jumper to 5vlts 7. Jumper U1 pin 11 to 5vlts 8. Jumper U3 pin 8 to U3 Pin 9 22
9. Jumper U3 pin 9 to U3 Pin 11 10 Jumper from the very last hole in the C grond line to one to the right the out put transistor will connect to here later.
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7. Now wire up the header HD-pin-3 to hole D2-28 HD-pin-4 to U3-pin-13 HD-pin-5 to U4-pin-12 HD-pin-6 . to U4-pin-13 HD-pin-7 to U1-pin-8 . HD-pin-8 to U1-pin-7 HD-pin-9 to U1-pin-4 HD-pin-10 to U1-pin-3
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Step 10: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Diodes,Transistors, and a Soleinoid
Now We just have to hook up Some parts we will start with the Diaodes 1. On U2 you will hook up diaodes on Pins 1,2,4,5,6,7,9, 14 and 15 However rather than laying them flat you will stand them up on end and solder them all together ( kinda like a diaode sculpture) ( the picure sectio has some tips if your having problems with this) 2. Take the end of the Dioade sculpture and solder it into hole C2-14 3. Now we will route our diaodes down to where our transitor will be (this is our 2nd red wire) it goes from Hole C3-14 to Hole C-27 Now lets place in the Transistor and hook up the Solenoid 4. Place the transisort in between C and D on Rows 27,28,and 29 5. Place a small wire from the center Pin( hole C2-28) to hole B4-28 6. One wire of the solenoid goes to the center pin of the trasistor ( the little wire you put in with step 5) this will be Hole B3-28 7.The other wire will hook up to Hd pin 3 (thats the long green wire you put in earlier) Thats Hole D3-28.
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Step 11: Making the Output decoder Circuit: Hooking up and TestingConnecting to the SR-06
1. solder the 10 pin onto the sr-06 board behind the display 10 pin
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4. Attach the ribbon cable to the 10 pin on the sr-06 and the 10pin on the Output decoder circuit.
Look your finished. well almost Now Bring up the The output decoder board This procedure is conceptually identical to starting up the main board and display. The board should be tested for correct ground and 5 volt connections on the pins. This board is similar to the output described in the instruction manual of the main board kit. This circuit will turn on and solenoid by grounding the return wire from the solenoid coil, The other side of the solenoid coil is attached to 9 volts
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** So far in the logs we have only heard of one person using the backdoor but they told us they didnt want to watch the Star trek episode to know the code so they just listened to it when they got there.
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There are certain things you need to condsider: here are some of the ones we based our decision on. 1. The RULES. There is a good deal of Guidlines and you will want to read over them before you start but a major ones is cache saturation that states that you cant put a chache within .1 miles of another one. So be fore you go out looking for a place to hide download all of the chaches in that area so you can determine if your getting to close. 2. We put alot of time and money into the project so we need a spot that: A. has low traffic B. Is semi difficult or complicated to get to C. Cant easily be spotted unless you are specifically looking for something D. A place where the chace can be hard to remove or dismantle E. A place close to home so you can check in on it. F. Finaly you are deffinatly looking for public land or private land you have permission to use like your own. 3. When you go out bring a measuring tool, paper, pen, GPS, and a camera to document your finds then way the options carefully. Ask yourself what is the one reason that makes this a bad hiding spot and is that a good reason to find another. I am sure you are all brilliant and will have no problem finding a place to hide yours. As for us after intetially looking under lots of bridges we decided on trying to find a remote place in the middle of the woods like in a thicket under a dead tree or something. By some miricale we found a place where an old building used to be and there was rubble from the old foundation so hiding our little box amoung the concrete and brick was gonna be easy. Just remeber to allways keep your eyes open this is supposed to be a fun adventure dont turn it into a chore. Now that you have a hiding spot decide how big you need to make this thing. If our idea dosent fit your needs you might be on your own for a bit but no worries remember your brilliant.
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3.For the top end (this one wont open) a. Take off the Wing nut that comes with the Cap. We also replaced our carriage bolt wit a stainless one, but that is probably just personal preffrence. b. Lock tight on the hex nut. c. Place the cap in the tube and tighten down the nut until the cap is tight d. Tightly screw on your Knob You can Locktight here if you want to but we thought it was unecessary as you would need a miriad of tools to get this thing off now Now everyone has a handle to pull out the tube with
4. The final step is to add the spacers Evenly space out four felt pads on the top and Four on the bottom of your tube
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3. Place the edge of the guide on the end of the tube and use something pointy to mark where the holes will be 4. drill the holes
5. Install the cotter pin in the plunger of the solenoid, spread the pins and cut them off short.
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7 Mount the bracket and latch (the notch in the latch engages the cotter pin on the solenoid plunger)
8. Test that it works by hooking the solenoid up to a 9 volt battery and your allready constructed tube 3.
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6. Caping tube 2: 1.Take the knock out plugs and drill 3 holes in it to drain out any water that might come in 2. Snap the cap in place but dont glue it down as you might need in there for repairs down the line
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Microphone and Battery: 1 Replace the Wing nut with a hex nut on your 4 pressure test cap 2. Drill 2 holes all the way through the the 4 pressure test cap 3. Carefully disconect your battery snap from your board and push the wires through one of the holes 4. Hot glue in place the use Quick set bathtub silicone to make it watter tight make sure you have it pressed all around the wires. 5. The headset that comes with the Kit has had the connectors for the headphones cut off. The only functioning part is the Microphone it is connected to the red mic plugby a 2 wire micro cable. The microphone Element is in a plastic housing that is connected to an adjustable stem. The wires from the microphone go through the stem as individual yellow and orange wires they are soldered to 2 wires in the micro cable inside the earphone housing. You will need to open up the headset and retrieve thesetwo peices. 6. Take the Microphone Element and string it through your second hole and glue and silicone it in its place. Putting in the Electronics We put in a shelf so the electronics wouldnt just flop around. 1. Cut a 4 x 12 peice of plexi-Glass 2 Glue your electronic boards on to it. 3. Hook your microphone and Battery snap back up 4. Gently slide the plexi shelf into the tube 5. Place the Pressure Test cap on the Tube 6. Tighten up the hex Nut till the cap is on tightly. Now you should be able to plug a 9vlt batter into the snap speak the phrase into the microphone and activate the mechanism.
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Step 21: Putting it in its Final resting place: Hiding IT. and mark IT Upload it
I wont Go into Much Detail here because i dont want to spoil the suprize for everyone But to have the project completly finished there are a few more things to do. 1. once its ready take it to the awesome hiding place you found, 2. Fil it with swag 3.Then you will need to use your GPS to get the Coorodinates 4.Finaly Go to Geocaching.com and fill out the form. It will then be put into review and once its up they should send you an E-mail They approved ours by the end of the first buisness day. So we didnt have to wait long. You can see its posting and read the logs here.
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January 6 by flightplan (338 found) Found 11:00 Docked the geo-starship at the outpost nearby. I shuttled my way to the boundary area and crossed into the neutral zone. I was talking to johnwip on my communicator when I arrived at gz. Great location for this themed cache! I was having some trouble seeing the cache due to its cloaking device - but it was revealed to me... I went through the mechanics of the cache and was ready to reenact the scene from ST season three #58. Since John was on the phone - um, communicator - I held it up to the microphone and had him utter the magic phrase. VOILA -I heard a Whir-Click and was soon signing the captains log. Great cache, concept, and location fun to do all the way around.
*************************************************************************************************************** We are having so much fun seeing what all of the cahers think of the project. I do encorage you if you are intrested in Geocaching to start one of your own. Maybe evena voice activated one, because it has been overwhelmingly rewarding. 45