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Thermophysiological comfort of silicone softeners-treated woven textile materials

Textile Engineering Department, University of Minho, Guimaraes, Portugal and Textile Department, University of Chemical Technology and Metallurgy, Sofia, Bulgaria
Keywords Thermophysiological, Silicone, Woven fabrics Abstract In this study the effect of the aminofunctional silicone softeners on fabrics' heat and moisture transport properties has been investigated by means of Alambeta and Permetest instruments. The silicone treated PES blended fabrics are warmer to the touch, but less comfortable as regards their reduced water-vapour permeability. The finishing stage of the fabrics has considerable influence on their thermal touch sensation and water-vapour permeability.

Thermophysiological comfort 189

Received July 1997 Revised February 1999 Accepted February 1999

Tzanro Tzanov

Rossitza Betcheva and Ivan Hardalov

The thermophysiological comfort experienced through wearing clothing is determined by the sensation of warmth or coolness at contact with the fabric as well as by the loss of water vapour through the clothing, which regulates the heat balance of the body. The so-called ``warm-cool feeling'' is included in the overall assessment of the handle of the textile materials, together with the lowstress physicomechanical properties of textiles. Traditionally, most of the measurements in that area have been conducted in equilibrium state, analysing such easily measured properties as thermal conductivity, resistance and moisture permeability. Although the steady-state methods provide good data, they cannot explain heat and moisture related subjective sensations that determine human comfort. This approach in studying the thermophysiological component of the clothing comfort does not reflect the real wearing situation, when the human body is rarely in a steady thermal state and interacts with clothing continuously and dynamically. The fabric provides a barrier to the passage of water vapour to the environment. Water vapour diffusion in fabric could be realised through the interfibre and yarn spaces, through the fibre substance itself and through the free air spaces. There is no single simple diffusion process of moisture passage through a fabric[7]. Vapour diffusion through the clothing involves phase changes at the surface of the fabrics. There exist two states of water phase gaseous and liquid and consequently several different interfaces between moisture and clothing medium. Not only does the fibre content and fabric structure, but also the specific finish of the fabric have strongly influencing effects on heat and moisture transportation[1]. In the final stage of fabric production different softening

International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 11 No. 4, 1999, pp. 189-197. # MCB University Press, 0955-6222

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finishes are applied to overcome the stiffness of the fabrics and to improve their handle. During this treatment, not only the mechanical, but also the thermal insulation, thermal contact and water-vapour transfer properties of the fabrics change. The silicone softeners are amongst the most largely applied, with good efficiency, chemicals for these finishes. The present study deals with aminofunctional polysiloxanes as the most prospective class of silicone softeners with universal application to all textile substrates, independently of fibre type. Our objective was to evaluate the effect of these silicone softeners, applied in different concentrations, on the heat and moisture transport properties of textiles concerning their thermophysiological comfort. Experimental Apparatus Thermal resistance, thermal conductivity and thermal absorptivity of the silicone treated fabrics have been measured by means of the new computer controlled Alambeta device[2,5] which enables fast measurement of both steady state and transient state thermal properties of any plain compressible non-metallic materials like textile fabrics, plastic or rubber foils, paper products, liquids, pastes and fine powders. The heat flow passing between the textile sample and measuring head during thermal contact is measured by a special thin sensor, whose thermal inertia is similar to that of human skin. A new parameter to describe the warm-cool feeling of fabrics, namely the thermal absorptivity has been introduced. Thermal absorptivity is defined as: p b !XpXc The thermal absorptivity is the parameter, characterizing the level of heat flow q, which passes between the human skin of infinite thermal capacity and temperature t1 and the contacting textile fabric, idealized to a semi-infinite body of finite thermal capacity and temperature t2 according to the equation: qdyn bt1 t2 a%(1a2 This equation is valid just for the short initial time ( of thermal contact between the skin and the fabric and this initial sensation is most important for the warm-cool feeling. For longer time, exceeding a few seconds, the heat flow q loses the dynamic (transient) character and reaches steady state level. The thermal absorptivity reflects the surface properties of fabrics and does not depend on experimental conditions, except for fabric type. This parameter substantially changes with the surface finishing of the fabric (coating, raising, grinding, pressing)[3]. Permetest[4,8] instrument has been used to determine the relative watervapour permeability. The outer surface of the tested sample is exposed to a parallel air flow and the other sample side faces a porous humid layer (0.2 ml of water has been injected into the layer), which simulates any underwear filled with liquid sweat. A space of 1mm between the sample and this layer separates

the liquid and vapour phase of the water. The working principle of the instrument consists in measuring the dynamic heat flow caused by the evaporation of water passing through the tested specimen. Relative water vapour permeability is defined as the ratio of the heat loss measured with sample and the heat loss measured without sample. Similar to the first described instrument thermal sensor, it simulates the sensitivity of human skin. Materials The following woven textile materials have been used: viscose/polyester 33/67 fabrics, twill weave 2.2, warp setting 284, 2062 tex, weft setting 210, 40 tex, mass per unit area 206g/m2 undyed, non-thermoset, and respectively dyed, thermoset. Sample dimensions are 80 6 80mm. Fabrics have been treated with water emulsions of three commercially available aminofunctional polysiloxane softeners Sandoperm MEJ, Sandoperm MEW, and Sandoperm FE, applied in three concentrations 10, 20 and 30g/l. After padding (wet pick-up 80 per cent) fabrics have been dried at 1208C for one minute and then cured without steam at 1808C for 30sec. Treated samples have been stored under standard conditions (218C and 65 per cent RH) until performance properties were evaluated. The discussion of the results is based on the average values of five measurements of the thermal properties and relative water-vapour permeability, taken at five different places on every sample. The results have been automatically processed and the coefficients of variance (CV) are presented as well. Thermal properties and water-vapour permeability of the untreated samples Comparison of the results for the untreated samples (Table I) of fabrics of same fibre type and construction, undyed, non-thermoset and dyed, thermoset showed differences in all measured parameters. The dyed sample has higher thermal conductivity (!) and absorptivity (b), and the amount of heat flow (q) transferred between the instrument's measuring head and the sample is greater, while the thermal resistance and sample thickness are lower. Higher thermal absorptivity means that the dyed fabric is cooler to touch. Relaxational processes during thermosetting and high temperature dyeing alter the thermal properties of fabrics. The non-thermoset samples have loose structure with more air involved within. Therefore, their thermal resistance should be higher
Water-vapour !g 103 b rg 103 hg qg permeability pg 2 W amXK W X sam XK KXm2 aW mm W am2 (per cent) 65.1(1.3) 70.4(1.4) 333(2.9) 400(3.1) 6(1.8) 5.3(1.5) 0.39(1.9) 1.49(2.5) 0.37(1.7) 1.7(2.4) 22.81 18.58

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Sample Undyed, unthermoset Dyed, thermoset

Table I. Thermal properties of the untreated fabrics

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and their thermal conductivity and absorptivity lower, before silicone application. Dyed, thermoset fabric has higher thermal absorptivity and lower water-vapour permeability. This could be explained by the reduction of the free air spaces within the fabric caused by thermosetting and high temperature dyeing. Dyeing and thermosetting relax the internal stresses in fabric structure and render it tighter. The size of the air voids entrapped in the initial undyed and non-thermoset sample decreases. Thus, the barrier for heat transfer gets lower. On the other hand, most of the moisture passes directly through the air spaces as vapour because of the fabric air volume. Reduction of this air volume impedes the passage of the water-vapour flux. The rest of the moisture interacts with the fibres depending on their hydrophility. The studied fabrics represent relatively hydrophobic blends (67 per cent PES, 33 per cent viscose). Possibility of moisture diffusion in dense fabrics is related to absorption and redistribution of liquid water through the fabrics and consecutive reevaporation. The hydrophilic component in the studied blends does not play the main influence in the moisture transfer, unlike the free air volume of the fabric. Hydrophility of viscose fibres cannot cause significant change in heat and moisture transport properties of the blended fabric because there is only a small proportion of their volume within the fabric. It is more likely that these properties depend mainly on fabric thickness, construction and bulk density. Thermal properties and water-vapour permeability of silicone softeners-treated fabrics The thermal conductivity (Figure 1) of both thermoset and non-thermoset fabrics slightly changed after the softeners' application.
74 72 Thermal conductivity 70 68 66 64 62 60 0 Key 5 10 15 20 concentration, g/l 25 30 Undyed Dyed

Figure 1. Thermal conductivity, [W/m.K 6 103]

MEJ MEW FE

The two parameters describing the warm-cool sensation as a component of fabric handle are: according to Hes[2,5], the thermal absorptivity (b) and according to Yoneda and Kawabata[12], the amount of heat flow (q) transferred between the fabric and the hand. Both of them decreased after silicone softeners' treatment (Figures 2 and 3). The reduction of the thermal absorptivity means that the fabrics are warmer to touch. However, this decrease has a different magnitude, depending on the applied silicone and the finishing stage of the fabrics. Dyed and thermoset fabric undergoes approximately twice lower reduction of b (7 per cent) than the undyed, non-thermoset one (14 per cent). As might be expected, thermal properties of the relaxed, thermoset fabric structure were not affected so markedly by the silicone treatment. The silicone softeners' application affected most considerably the thermal resistance and the thickness of the non-thermoset fabric (Figures 4 and 5). The values of r increased for the undyed, non-thermoset sample up to 50 per cent and for the dyed, thermoset about 10 per cent, while the increase in fabric thickness for the above fabrics is respectively 46 per cent and 15 per cent. An increase in fabric thickness usually induces an increase in the thermal insulation. This large increase in thickness of the non-thermoset samples is mainly caused by the relaxational shrinkage, occurring at the high temperature silicone curing (1808C). Relaxational process, due to the polyester component, resulted in a visible tightening of the structure and reduction of fabrics' initial dimensions. Tightening drives away the air included in fabric structure and increases the bulk density. Therefore, the thermal conductivity and absorptivity should increase. However, the thickening of the non-thermoset

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420 Dyed 400 Thermal absorptivity 380 360 340 320 300 280 260 0 Key MEJ MEW FE 5 10 15 20 concentration, g/l 25 30 Undyed

Figure 2. Thermal absorptivity, p W X sam2 XK

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1.7 1.6 1.5 1.4 1.3 1.2

Dyed

Undyed

194

0 Key MEJ

10 15 20 concentration, g/l

25

30

Figure 3. Heat flow, [W/m2]

MEW FE

10 9 8 7 6 5 Dyed 0 Key 5 10 15 20 concentration, g/l 25 30 Undyed Undyed Dyed

Figure 4. Thermal resistance, [K.m2/W 103]

Thermal resistance

MEJ MEW FE

fabric is so significant that the inverse phenomenon is presented thermal conductivity and absorptivity decreased, while resistance increased considerably. This interpretation of the results for the non-thermoset samples seems to be reasonable. As far as the dyed, thermoset samples are concerned, where structural changes are not crucial, the same explanation does not fit properly.

0.65 0.60 0.55 0.50 0.45 0.40 Dyed 0.35 0 Key MEJ MEW FE 5 10 15 20 concentration, g/l 25 30 Undyed

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Thickness

Figure 5. Fabric thickness, [mm]

Some authors[11] assumed the fabric as a three-layer structure consisting of a core and an outer layer at each face. Fabric structure and particularly surface properties have great influence on the warm-cool feeling. The core is dense and has higher thermal inertia than the outer layer, which consists mainly of air with projecting fibres. The resistance of the outer layer depends on its thickness. Thus the thinner the outer layer, the cooler the fabric will feel to the touch. As the silicone softening finishes do not penetrate the fibre structure, their effect is presented on fabric surface (the outer layer) through formation of a polymer film; thereby the total thickness of the silicone treated samples increases. It is the bulk density of the fabric surface that is important to the warm-cool feeling rather than the overall bulk density[6]. Aminofunctional silicone softeners are known to provoke certain hydrophobity of the treated fabrics. Such a hydrophobic treatment promoted lower water-vapour flux than for the untreated samples (Figure 6). Water vapour has to diffuse through the voids between fibres and yarns, since liquid water cannot be absorbed by the fibres. Silicone application reduced the wicking (spreading) ability of the fabric. Water-vapour permeability decreased with the increase of softeners' concentration. The applied aminofunctional silicones interact with the textile material by formation of a polymer film on the fabric surface[9, 10]. This film has low surface tension, inherent to silicone polymers and does not allow the moisture from the surface to penetrate fabric bulk easily. Conclusions The applied aminofunctional silicone softeners imparted to the PES containing fabrics a warmer handle. Silicone treated fabrics are warmer to touch, but less

Water-vapour permeability

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24 22 20 18 16 14 12 10

Undyed

Dyed

196

0 Key

10 15 20 concentration, g/l

25

30

Figure 6. Water-vapour permeability, per cent

MEJ MEW FE

comfortable as regards their reduced water-vapour permeability. Changes in the warm-cool feeling of the thermoset fabrics are mainly due to changes in their surface characteristics, caused by the formation of a silicone polymer film on their surface. For the non-thermoset fabrics the structural changes, which occurred during the softeners' curing, are determinant. The silicone softeners' application does not alter markedly the thermal properties of the dyed, thermoset fabrics. The finishing stage of the fabrics has considerable influence on their thermal touch sensation and water-vapour permeability. Clear dependence between the discussed thermal and moisture transport properties and softeners' concentration in the frames of concentrations prescribed in the recipes for application of the products is hardly to be established. Water-vapour permeability, however, decreases depending on the increase of softeners' concentration. Small differences in the effect of various aminofunctional polysiloxanes on fabric thermal and moisture transport properties are detectable by means of Alambeta and Permetest instruments. Thus, the apparatus could be a useful tool for control of fabrics' thermophysiological comfort at finishing operations.
References 1. Brownless, N.J., Anand, S.C., Holmes, D.A. and Rowe, T., ``The dynamics of moisture transportation, part I: the effect of `wicking' on the thermal resistance of single and multilayer fabric systems'', J. Textile Inst., Vol. 87 Part 1, No. 1, 1996, pp. 173-82. 2. Hes, L., Hanzl, J., Dolezal, I. and Miklas, Z., ``New method and instrument for the objective evaluation of thermal-contact properties of flat textile fabrics'', Melliand Textilberichte, Vol. 71, 1990, pp. 679-81.

3. Hes, L., Hybl, V. and Bandyopadhyay, B.B., ``The effect of fibre polymer on warm-cool feeling'', Ind. J. Fib. Textile Res., Vol. 16, 1991, pp. 195-8. 4. Hes, L. and Carvalho, M., Indian J. of Fibre and Textile Res., Vol. 19, 1994, pp. 147-50. 5. Hes, L. and Dolezal, I., ``New method and equipment for measuring thermal properties of textiles'', J. Textile Mash. Soc. Jpn., Vol. 42 No. 8, 1989, pp. T124-128. 6. Holcombe, B.V., Brooks, J.H., Schneider and Watt, I.C., Pre-print of Conference Proceedings: Annual World Conference of the Textile Institute, The Textile Institute, Manchester, 1988, p. 436. 7. Hollie, N.R.S., ``The comfort characteristics of next-to-skin garments, including shirts'', Shirley Int. Sem. Textile Comfort, Manchester, 1971. 8. Hollie, N.R.S. and Hall, P., ``Comfort acceptance in knit structures'', AATCC Symp., No. 17, 1975, pp. 88-93. 9. Jang, K.O. and Yeh, K., ``Effects of silicone softeners and silane coupling agents on the performance properties of cotton fabrics'', Textile Res. J., Vol. 63 No. 10, 1993, pp. 557-65. 10. Lautenschlager, H.-J., Bindl, J. and Huhn, G., ``Structural correlations for aminofunctional silicone softeners, alkylation and acylation for changing the property profile'', Textil Praxis International, May, 1993. 11. Schneider, A.M. and Holcombe, B.V., ``Properties influencing coolness to the touch of fabrics'', Textile Res. J., Vol. 61 No. 8, 1991, pp. 488-94. 12. Yoneda, M. and Kawabata, S., ``Analysis of transient heat conduction and its applications, part II'', J. Textile Mash. Soc. Jpn., Vol. 31, 1985, pp. 73-80. Further reading Hong, K., Hollies, N.R.S. and Spivak, S.M., ``Dynamic moisture vapor transfer through textiles, part I: clothing hygrometry and the influence of fiber type'', Textile Res. J., Vol. 12, 1988, pp. 697-706. Instruction Manuals of Alambeta and Permetest Instruments, SENSORA, Liberec, Czech Rep.

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