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EVERY ROLE X IS MADE FOR GRE ATNE SS. THE DAY-DATE, INTRODUCED IN 1956 ,

EVERY ROLE X IS MADE FOR GRE ATNE SS. THE DAY-DATE, INTRODUCED

IN 1956, WAS THE FIRST WATCH TO DISPLAY THE DATE, AS WELL AS THE

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the day-date

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HOTEL DEBUTS : ABU DHABI BANGKOK EXPECTATION Your idea of shopping is calling the tailor
HOTEL DEBUTS : ABU DHABI BANGKOK EXPECTATION Your idea of shopping is calling the tailor
HOTEL DEBUTS : ABU DHABI BANGKOK EXPECTATION Your idea of shopping is calling the tailor
HOTEL DEBUTS : ABU DHABI BANGKOK EXPECTATION Your idea of shopping is calling the tailor

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HOTEL DEBUTS : ABU DHABI BANGKOK EXPECTATION Your idea of shopping is calling the tailor your

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Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class
Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class
Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class
Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class
Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class
Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class
Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class

Innoventures Education was born with a simple belief. If Dubai is to be a world-class city, it must have world-class education.

be a world-class city, it must have world-class education. Presenting a portfolio of premium international schools.
be a world-class city, it must have world-class education. Presenting a portfolio of premium international schools.
be a world-class city, it must have world-class education. Presenting a portfolio of premium international schools.
be a world-class city, it must have world-class education. Presenting a portfolio of premium international schools.

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**School operations are subject to the readiness of the school building and facilities and the formal approval from KHDA.

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Get ready to enter the record books. Travel on a journey through the history of
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Get ready to enter the record books. Travel on a journey through the history of
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EDITOR’S LETTER

EDITOR’S LETTER
EDITOR’S LETTER I t may seem ironic to anyone who knows me that I am presiding

I t may seem ironic to anyone who knows me that

I am presiding over an issue devoted to style, but,

of course, I can argue that style is in the eye of

the beholder. Note my use of the singular. Style

is a broad canvas, and not to be mixed up with

fashion, which, as Oscar Wilde pointed out, is a form of

ugliness so intolerable that it has to be altered every six months. This is something the writer of our cover story would agree with. A fashion industry insider, she exposes the murky world of models, designers and a pliant fashion

The story is illustrated beautifully by Lindsey Spinks, a young British artist who re-imagined a drawing of hers we found about

press.

hapnophobia (the fear of being touched). Such is

the haphazard way our covers take

shape. There was

nothing haphazard about Edith Head, whose book, How To Dress For Success, was something of a must-have style guide for women in the 1960s. While some of the advice might seem (very) dated, Head is still revered around the world. We also take a look at Hong Kong’s disappearing tailors, who are finding it impossible to carry on a generations-old tradition. One legacy that will live on is that of the architectural creations scattered around the far edges of the former Soviet Union. Shocking but beautiful, these buildings are snapshots of another time. Enjoy the issue.

CONOR@OPENSKIESMAGAZINE.COM

Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In the event
Emirates takes care to ensure that all facts published herein are correct. In
the event of any inaccuracy please contact The Editor.Any opinion expressed
is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts. Comments and
facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking commercial, legal,
financial or other decisions.Articles are by their nature general and specialist
advice should always be consulted before any actions are taken.
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COPIES
Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer GROUP EDITOR & MANAGING PARTNER Ian Fairservice GROUP SENIOR

EDITOR SENIOR

ART DIRECTOR CHIEF SUB EDITOR ae STAFF WRITER CONTRIBUTING WRITER SENIOR PRODUCTION

MANAGER S Sunil Kumar PRODUCTION MANAGER C Sudhakar GENERAL MANAGER, GROUP SALES

SENIOR

ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER DEPUTY ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Murali Narayanan ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES:

CONTRIBUTORS: Mark COVER ILLUSTRATION MASTHEAD DESIGN

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

EDITOR EDITOR Conor Purcell

INTERNATIONAL MEDIA REPRESENTATIVES

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CONTENTS

CONTENTS

SEPTEMBER ����

CONTENTS SEPTEMBER ���� OUR MAN IN PARIS ON WHY THE CITY’S LADIES ARE SO FASHIONABLE (P33)…

OUR MAN IN PARIS ON WHY THE CITY’S LADIES ARE SO FASHIONABLE

(P33)… WE SHOWCASE NEW YORK’S COOLEST HAIR SALONS VIA

TWITTER PITCH (P37)… ONE OF SYDNEY’S HIDDEN GEMS GETS THE

TWITTER PITCH (P37)… ONE OF SYDNEY ’S HIDDEN GEMS GETS THE
TWITTER PITCH (P37)… ONE OF SYDNEY ’S HIDDEN GEMS GETS THE

ROOM TREATMENT (P39)… MILAN HAS STYLE. LOTS OF IT, AS WE

DISCOVER WHEN WE MAP THE ITALIAN CITY (P40) OUR COLUMNIST

EXPLAINS THE EVER�CHANGING WORLD OF GULF FASHIONS (P49)

A BELGIAN DESIGNER HAS ONE OF THE MOST EYE�CATCHING

BOUTIQUES IN ASIA (P56)… DELIGHT IN THE DELICIOUS CUPCAKES

AT MAGNOLIA, ONE OF NEW YORK’S FINEST BAKERIES (P58)… WE PICK

UP SOME GEMS IN THE FINANCIAL CAPITAL OF EUROPE (P60) OUR

FASHION INSIDER LAYS OPEN A WORLD OF TANTRUMS, TEARS, LIES

AND EXPLOITATION � WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF HIGH FASHION

(P66)… HONG KONG’S TRADITIONAL TAILORS ARE A DYING BREED. WE

JOURNEY TO THE ISLAND TO FIND OUT WHY (P76) EDITH HEAD

GIVES SOME QUIRKY �AND INVALUABLE� ADVICE ON HOW TO GET A

RAISE, AND A HUSBAND (P88)… STUNNING IMAGES OF A PARTICULARLY

CONTRIBUTORS

CONTRIBUTORS
CONTRIBUTORS LINDSEY SPINKS: Lindsey is a freelance illustrator based in London. She is passionate about handmade
LINDSEY SPINKS: Lindsey is a freelance illustrator based in London. She is passionate about handmade

LINDSEY SPINKS: Lindsey is a freelance illustrator based in London. She is passionate about handmade imagery and her medium of choice is the mechanical pencil. Her work has been exhibited in the UK and she has illustrated for numerous publications.

JEFFREY MACINTYRE: Jeffrey is a New York-based writer who has written for the New York

JEFFREY MACINTYRE: Jeffrey is a New York-based writer who has written for the New York Times, Slate, The Boston Globe, Intelligent Life and Wired. He has written on everything from bathroom graffiti to evolutionary biology.

HILLARY BRENHOUSE: Hillary is an arts and culture writer currently based in Hong Kong. Her

HILLARY BRENHOUSE: Hillary is an arts and culture writer currently based in Hong Kong. Her work has appeared in such publications as TIME magazine, Slate and the International Herald Tribune.

FRÉDÉRIC CHAUBIN: Frédéric Chaubin is the editor of the French magazine Citizen K , and

FRÉDÉRIC CHAUBIN: Frédéric Chaubin is the editor of the French magazine Citizen K, and is a renowned architectural photographer. He has photographed buildings everywhere from Mexico to Vietnam.

EDITH HEAD: Edith was an American costume designer who won eight Academy Awards – more

EDITH HEAD: Edith was an American costume designer who won eight Academy Awards – more than any other woman, winning her final Oscar for her work on The Sting in 1974. Her book, How To Dress For Success, was an instant classic.

IWC Ingenieur. Created for explorers.

“Hello up there!”

IWC Ingenieur. Created for explorers. “Hello up there!” Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium. Ref. 3765: Nothing can

Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium. Ref. 3765: Nothing can stop a man – even when he’s clinging to a sheer cliff face – who’s determined to get to the top, apart from the weight dragging him back down again. A titanium case lightens the load. The Ingenieur Double Chronograph Titanium strikes an ideal balance between maximum comfort and features that will quicken the pulse of any man of action: a mechanical split- seconds chronograph, ultra light design and vulcanised rubber highlights. It scales new heights in aesthetic perfection. IWC. Engineered for men.

heights in aesthetic perfection. IWC. Engineered for men. Mechanical chronograph movement | Self-winding | 44-hour

Mechanical chronograph movement | Self-winding | 44-hour

Mechanical chronograph movement | Self-winding | 44-hour power reserve when fully wound | Date and day

power reserve when fully wound | Date

and day display | Small hacking seconds |

Splitseconds hand for intermediate

timing | Screw-in crown | Sapphire

glass, antireflective coating on both sides |

Water-resistant 12 bar | Case height 16 mm | Diameter 45 mm

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUES: DUBAI MALL – Tel: 04 339 8111, BURJUMAN – Tel: 04 355 1717, ABU DHABI MARINA MALL - Tel: 02 681 1557

Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons: Atlantis - Tel: 04 422 0233, Mall of the Emirates – Tel: 04 341 1211, Dubai Duty Free – Tel Toll Free: 800 - 4443 Rivoli Prestige: Abu Dhabi Mall – Tel: 02 645 6220

INTRO

P. film noir P. seoul style P. 58 New York Cupcakes

FRANKFURT BOOTY PROWL THE OF WE THE MAIN SOME STYLISH SUITCASE FOR BANKS FILLERS P60
FRANKFURT
BOOTY
PROWL
THE
OF
WE THE
MAIN
SOME
STYLISH
SUITCASE
FOR BANKS FILLERS
P60
58 New York Cupcakes FRANKFURT BOOTY PROWL THE OF WE THE MAIN SOME STYLISH SUITCASE FOR
PARIS OUR MAN IN IS THERE A PARISIAN STYLE? YES – AND IT ISN’T HARD

PARIS

OUR MAN IN

IS THERE A PARISIAN STYLE? YES – AND IT ISN’T HARD TO ATTAIN

F or the Parisian, style is about far more than clothing. My wife, who was born and raised

in Paris, once informed me that she could tell as much about a person from the way they wielded their cutlery as she could from the way they dressed. “The British tend to shovel,” she would say, with a significant glance across the dinner table. “While Parisians skewer,” I might counter. Nevertheless, if there’s one word that sums up Parisian style, it’s understatement. When I moved here 10 years ago, I noticed it straightaway — without initially being able to put my finger on it. Single at the time, I was intrigued by the city’s females. They were certainly different to the women I’d known in London, who exposed flesh in all weathers. Parisian women were not necessarily sexier, but they were more mysterious. Their hair was darker and scruffier; their voices huskier. But, finally, I realised what it came down to: they wore more clothes. In a word, they were demure. I was shocked six months later when I went to a party in London

and saw how brazenly the English girls were dressed. They were attractive — but they weren’t subtle. Parisian women keep sex on a low simmer, not only because they have to run the gamut of comments from occasionally persistent Parisian men, but because they dress for one another. They have a fear of being perceived as vulgar by their peers.

They never want to look as if they’re trying too hard. Their hair must look as if they’ve just got out of bed (preferably with a fringe; fringes are very Parisian) and their make-up

is minimal, although bold red lips are

acceptable. It’s true that they wear

lots of black, daringly teaming it with navy blue. They know how to make jeans and trench coats look the very essence of chic. Very often, they have

a scooter helmet slung over their arm

along with the latest ‘it’ bag. Indeed, accessories are an essential part of their allure. Women will wear costume jewellery with an evening dress and diamonds with their boyfriend’s striped shirt. They know that a masculine watch makes their wrist look even thinner. And both sexes understand that a flamboyant scarf whisks an outfit

from noncommittal to nonchalant in a flash. Parisians realise that fashion is the spice of clothing, not the main ingredient. If camouflage print is in, they’ll go out and buy a pair of camouflage ballet flats to contrast their monochromatic ensemble. Don’t forget that Paris is a very cosmopolitan city. One of the most influential Parisians right now is the actress Leïla Bekhti, born in a Paris suburb to Algerian parents and recently picked as one of the ‘faces’ of L’Oréal Paris. Many of the coolest-looking Parisians combine subtle references to their Arabic roots with European style. Many of these rules also go for Parisian men, who’ve perfected the art of scruffy stylishness. Which is only natural, as their ultimate hero is the rumpled Serge Gainsbourg. It’s actually hard to find a clean-shaven Parisian male these days. But their stubble is the perfect length, their sneakers, sunglasses and watches are stealthily expensive and the shirt and jeans they haven’t bothered to press fit them perfectly. For the Parisian, the stylish devil is in the details.

For the Parisian, the stylish devil is in the details. Mark Tungate is the Paris-based author

Mark Tungate is the Paris-based author of Branded Beauty: How Marketing Changed the Way We Look

GRAPH

INFORMATION ELEGANCE

GRAPH INFORMATION ELEGANCE 34
GRAPH INFORMATION ELEGANCE 34
GRAPH INFORMATION ELEGANCE 34
GRAPH INFORMATION ELEGANCE 34

I LLUSTRATION: LUCIANO BALZANO | WWW.LUCIANOBALZANO.COM.AR

I LLUSTRATION: LUCIANO BALZANO | WWW.LUCIANOBALZANO.COM.AR 35
I LLUSTRATION: LUCIANO BALZANO | WWW.LUCIANOBALZANO.COM.AR 35
I LLUSTRATION: LUCIANO BALZANO | WWW.LUCIANOBALZANO.COM.AR 35
I LLUSTRATION: LUCIANO BALZANO | WWW.LUCIANOBALZANO.COM.AR 35
I LLUSTRATION: LUCIANO BALZANO | WWW.LUCIANOBALZANO.COM.AR 35

TWITTER PITCH

NEW YORK HAIR SALONS Every month we profile a number of venues in a different
NEW YORK
HAIR SALONS
Every month we profile a number of venues in a different city,
country or continent. The catch? The companies must be on
Twitter and must tell us in their own words what makes them so
special. This month, we feature New York’s trendiest hair salons.
If you want to get involved, follow us at:
www.twitter.com/openskiesmag
Blow NY
Opened in 2005 as the first-ever
blow-dry bar, Blow NY built a cult
following for its signature services
and product line, offering trendy
insider styling tips and advice.
www.twitter.com/blowdrybeauty
Cutler
Mizu NYC
Salon
www.twitter.com/blowdrybeauty Cutler Mizu NYC Salon Parlor Beauty, courtesy and talent is the Parlor philosophy.
www.twitter.com/blowdrybeauty Cutler Mizu NYC Salon Parlor Beauty, courtesy and talent is the Parlor philosophy.

Parlor

Beauty, courtesy and talent is the Parlor philosophy. We want to inspire you through innovative techniques and superior service utilising the most current trends. www.twitter.com/parlorbeauty

Concept

Salon

Concept Salon prides itself on offering the newest treatments to keep your hair healthy and manageable, regardless of your genes! www.twitter.com/conceptsalon

With 3 bustling NYC salons and 150+ celebrity/editorial stylists, Cutler offers insight into cutting- edge styles of the fashion world. www.twitter.com/cutlersalon

Vaughn Accord & Damian Santiago’s luxury brand NYC salon w/ incredible talent, warm & friendly staff, modern architectural design. www.twitter.com/mizunyc

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. C arat Weight 1.53 C olor Grade

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.

C arat Weight 1.53 C olor Grade E C larity Grade VS1 C ut Grade
C arat Weight
1.53
C olor Grade
E
C larity Grade
VS1
C ut Grade
Excellent
Laser Inscription
Registry Number
GIA 16354621
Natural Diamond
Not Synthetic
A GIA report is certainty from the source. GIA is the gemological research institute
that created the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System. ™ It is globally recognized
as the unbiased expert for professional, detailed gem evaluations. Before you buy a diamond,
ask your jeweler for a GIA grading report. To learn more visit www.4cs.gia.edu

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

jeweler for a GIA grading report. To learn more visit www.4cs.gia.edu THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH

BOOKED

BOOKED EDITH HEAD — HOW TO DRESS FOR SUCCESS I t may be surprising that Edith

EDITH HEAD — HOW TO DRESS FOR SUCCESS

I t may be surprising that

Edith Head, the epitome of

female success (she won eight

Academy Awards for Costume Design) should write a book in such a, well, patronising tone. But maybe things were different in 1967, the year her book was first published. Chapters include Get A Man (“Choose your wardrobe to please him and suit his way of life”) and In Business (“Who knows, you might marry the boss!”), hardly advice for a progressive woman. This new edition features Head’s own illustrations and, among the dated ramblings, some very useful advice. She was ahead of her time in many ways, and very much an exponent of the classic look. Head advises women to stay away from “faddish” clothes and to avoid looking like “mutton dressed as lamb”. Truisms, maybe, but sage advice all the same. Head’s experience of dressing the likes of Grace Kelly, Kim Novak and Elizabeth Taylor is reworked into advice for the ‘average’ woman. The fact that this book is still read today, only underlines her influence (see

page 88). V&A Pubishing, 2009

(see p a g e 8 8 ) . V&A Pubishing, 2009 ROOM 208 WATSONS BAY
(see p a g e 8 8 ) . V&A Pubishing, 2009 ROOM 208 WATSONS BAY
ROOM 208 WATSONS BAY HOTEL SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA INTERNET SPEED: 1MB, free PILLOWS: Six IPOD DOCK:
ROOM
208
WATSONS BAY HOTEL
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA
INTERNET SPEED: 1MB, free
PILLOWS: Six
IPOD DOCK: No
PIZZA DELIVERY TIME:
19 minutes
COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Tea & coffee
TOILETRY BRAND: Kudos
Set away from the city centre in
Watsons Bay, a former fishing village,
this petite hotel sits atop one of
Sydney’s most famous pubs. Owned
by generations of the Doyle clan — the
family behind Sydney’s world-
renowned Doyle’s restaurant — guests
can enjoy food from the adjacent
D A I LY N E W SPAPER: Sydney Morning
Herald, The Daily Telegraph
EXTRAS: CD/DVD player, additional loft
bedroom
BUSINESS CENTRE: No
VIEW: 5/5
RATE: From $195
WWW.WATSONSBAYHOTEL.COM.AU
restaurant or from one of the
take-away seafood counters while
soaking up the salt air on the outdoor
terraces. A coastal walk from here
through national parkland takes you
around South Head with its stunning
views across Sydney Harbour to the
northern suburbs and along the cliff
faces of The Gap. The hotel has a ferry
station: boats run via the harbour bays
before stopping at Circular Quay in
the city. A true local’s haunt: stylish
rooms in an old-style pub façade with
a million dollar view.

MAPPED

MILAN

Italy’s vibrant economic capital, Milan is synonymous with fashion, design and impeccable style. The city is home to scores of top design houses (including Armani, Prada, Versace and Dolce & Gabbana), four pilgrimage-worthy fashion weeks and an annual industrial design fair that’s one of the world’s best. And it comes as no surprise to find that the local food, nightlife and art scenes manage to keep up the cutting-edge pace. From enduring old favourites to the hottest new venues, Hg2’s Kathryn Tomasetti dishes up a hip antipasti of spots to bed down, dig in and dance the night away.

WWW.HG2.COM

to bed down, dig in and dance the night away. WWW.HG2.COM HOTELS 1. 3 Rooms 2.
to bed down, dig in and dance the night away. WWW.HG2.COM HOTELS 1. 3 Rooms 2.

HOTELS 1. 3 Rooms 1. 3 Rooms

2. Bulgari Hotel

3. The Gray

4. Hotel Principe Di Savoia

RESTAURANTS �. Clandestino Milano �. Clandestino Milano

6. Antica Trattoria della Pesa

7. Il Marchesino

8. Giulio Pane e Ojo

BARS / CLUBS 9. Café Marc Jacobs 10. h club>diana 11. Living 12. Hollywood GALLERIES
BARS / CLUBS 9. Café Marc Jacobs 10. h club>diana 11. Living 12. Hollywood GALLERIES

BARS / CLUBS 9. Café Marc Jacobs 10. h club>diana 11. Living 9. Café Marc Jacobs 10. h club>diana 11. Living

12. Hollywood

GALLERIES 13. Museo del Novecento 13. Museo del Novecento

14. Galleria Lia Rumma

15. Triennale di Milano

16. Hangar Bicocca

MAPPED

MILAN

HOTELS 1 3 ROOMS 2 BULGARI HOTEL 3 THE GRAY The brainchild of art guru
HOTELS
1 3 ROOMS
2 BULGARI HOTEL
3 THE GRAY
The brainchild of art
guru Carla Sozzani.
The three sleek suites
are packed with iconic
20th century designs.
Premises are shared with
The Bulgari Hotel is
tucked into a private cul-
de-sac in Milan’s fashion
district. Bedrooms are
decorated in teak and
granite; the hotel’s spa
a restaurant, boutique,
bookshop and gallery.
is exquisite, with a pool
tiled in pure gold.
The Gray boasts 21
unique rooms. Opt for
Urban & Fit, with its own
private gym, or go for
Gallery View, decked out
in rich African-inspired
textiles. In an alley near
the Duomo Cathedral.
4 HOTEL PRINCIPE DI
SAVOIA
Milan’s landmark hotel
takes the titles of grande
dame, fin de siècle and
any other ritzy superlative
you can throw at it. It is
completely lavish, but we
love the indoor pool.
RESTAURANTS 5 CLANDESTINO 6 ANTICA TRATTORIA DELLA PESA 7 IL MARCHESINO 8 GIULIO PANE E
RESTAURANTS
5
CLANDESTINO
6
ANTICA TRATTORIA
DELLA PESA
7
IL MARCHESINO
8
GIULIO PANE E OJO
MILANO
This is a temple to both
fashion and gastronomy.
Chef Moreno Cedroni
uses Italian ingredients
to craft ‘susci’, his own
Mediterranean take on
the Japanese staple.
For authentic Milanese
cuisine, this former weigh
station is unsurpassed.
Cosy up with a plate
of creamy risotto alla
Milanese or suck up a
hearty ossobuco.
Classic Italian dishes are
given a contemporary
lift, such as stuffed ravioli
with seared langoustine.
Menus are supplied on
iPads, while the décor
takes inspiration from the
La Scala next door.
This Roman restaurant
is renowned both for its
home-made pastas and
its candlelit, romantic
ambiance. Be sure to
check out the old ‘price
per hour’ signs: the
restaurant was a bordello.
BARS/CLUBS 9 CAFÉ MARC JACOBS 10 H CLUB > D IANA 11 L IVING 12
BARS/CLUBS
9 CAFÉ MARC JACOBS
10 H CLUB > D IANA
11 L IVING
12 H OLLYWOO D
In a city that is famed for
Hidden behind the
it catwalks and designer
labels, it’s little surprise
that the hippest bars have
Sheraton Diana Majestic’s
chic foyer, h club>diana
is part Art Deco atrium,
a strong fashion slant. Pop
in here for an afternoon
espresso or a late evening
(expensive) cocktail.
part secret garden bar.
Aperitivo hour kicks off
from 7.30pm, later, live
music and late night DJs.
Living is famous for its
vodka selection: sip your
way through its 100-
strong collection. Set in a
renovated post office, the
bar’s glass windows and
sprawling terrace peek out
over Arco della Pace.
For 25 years, Hollywood
has been Milan’s most
popular nightclub and
Kate Moss, Tom Ford,
Jamiroquai and Carla
Bruni have partied here.
Music ranges from cheesy
electro to R & B.
GALLERIES 13 MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO 14 GALLERIA LIA RUMMA 15 TRIENNALE DI 16 HANGAR BICOCCA
GALLERIES
13
MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO
14
GALLERIA LIA RUMMA
15
TRIENNALE DI
16
HANGAR BICOCCA
This museum showcases
Lia Rumma is an
MILANO
a
brilliant permanent
collection of 20th century
art. Highlights include
pieces by Matisse and
Picasso, as well as Italian
superstars Modigliani,
Fontana and Morandi.
unconventional gallery,
set over five glass and
concrete floors. Recent
shows include Vanessa
Beecroft’s tableau vivant,
blending performance
with marble sculptures.
An exhibition space built
almost 80 years ago, it
chronicles Italian design
from the 1940s to the
present: iconic Castiglioni
lamps, Olivetti typewriters
and Cassina furnishings.
This former train
workshop still impresses
with its giant size. Shows
make the most of the
space, including Surasi
Kusolwong’s installation
of five visitor-friendly
ping-pong tables.

FLICK

CELLULOID DISSECTED

FLICK CELLULOID DISSECTED F amed screenwriter, director and critic Paul Schrader’s writing CV includes such
FLICK CELLULOID DISSECTED F amed screenwriter, director and critic Paul Schrader’s writing CV includes such

F amed screenwriter, director and critic Paul Schrader’s writing CV includes such

not-insignificant highlights as the scripts for both Taxi Driver and Raging Bull. He might, therefore, be credited with knowing a thing or two about the darker side of Hollywood moviemaking. Which is why, when it comes to seeking out a workable definition for film noir — arguably modern cinema’s most iconic and yet

frustratingly slippery genre — his opinion is worth listening to. When we viewers talk about film noir, we’re almost invariably referring to its 1940s and 1950s heyday; the ‘classic’ period which forever etched an image of

monochrome moodiness onto the face of popular cinema. Citizen Kane, The Maltese Falcon, Double Indemnity, The Big Sleep, The Third Man, Sunset Boulevard. These are the films that instilled that noir notion of chain-smoking anti-heroes clashing with femme fatales in low-lit detective offices, And, in many ways, these visual tropes quickly came to define film noir in the minds of cinema-going audiences — far more so, in fact, than the twisting plotlines, moral ambiguity and all-pervading air of faint nihilism that many would later insist defined the genre. Indeed, for Schrader, noir didn’t even qualify as a genre in its own right: “It is not defined,

as are the western and gangster genres, by conventions of setting and conflict,” he wrote in his seminal essay Notes On Film Noir, “but rather by the more subtle qualities of tone and mood. A film of urban night life is not necessarily a film noir, and a film noir need not necessarily concern crime and corruption.” All of which seems perfectly reasonable. But, given how deeply entrenched our impression of a noir ‘style’ remains, can we afford to be quite that reductive? After all, you don’t need a PhD in film studies to pin a genre to a certain look: a sharp-suited Humphrey Bogart, framed in the doorway

MARK POWELL GETS UNDER THE SKIN OF ONE OF FILM’S MOST MISUNDERSTOOD GENRES of a
MARK POWELL GETS UNDER THE SKIN OF ONE OF FILM’S MOST MISUNDERSTOOD GENRES of a

MARK POWELL GETS UNDER THE SKIN OF ONE OF FILM’S MOST MISUNDERSTOOD GENRES

of a backstreet whisky den? Well, that’ll be film noir, clearly. So, if the genre should only ever be defined by its prevailing mood or tone, as Schrader would seem to have it, why do we still identify film noir by the set of stylistic associations we have with it? Have we fundamentally misunderstood what elements contribute to making a given movie noir, or can we, in fact, do away with scholarly subtleties of tone and shade and simply claim that we (quite literally) know a film noir when we see it? Of course, as with most critical discussions, the real answer probably lies somewhere in between. The idea of fully

separating noir from its own deeply entrenched sense of style doesn’t sit at all comfortably with our perceptions of the genre. Shooting The Hangover in black and white with a bunch of suit- wearing smokers wouldn’t make it a film noir; equally, The Third Man would quickly cease to be identifiable as such if remade in glorious technicolour with a side order of slapstick gags, song-and- dance numbers and protagonists running around in tracksuits. What really seems to define film noir, then, is a combination of both its ingrained style and its pervading atmosphere. In which case, rather than what Schrader and others felt was an inherent

‘hopelessness’ being that key defining air, you might prefer to argue it was something more akin to a growing anti-establishment groundswell — a sort of post-war cynicism. This not only helps to account for all the trash-talking, innuendo and wry humour scattered across the genre, but also gives us leverage to think about film noir as a much more conscious phenomenon. It even helps explain the gender politics on display, the desperate men and powerful women. And, since we’ve all fancied a day as a hard-boiled 1950s detective or scheming femme fatale at some point, that seems a much more satisfactory outcome on every level.

1950s detective or scheming femme fatale at some point, that seems a much more satisfactory outcome
AD 74mm wide x 224 mm high
AD
74mm wide
x 224 mm high

SKYPOD

FASHION DJ JEREMY HEALY GIVES US HIS FAVOURITE REMIXES

TWIST AND SHOUT – THE BEATLES (ELEKTROBOX VERSION) You can never go far wrong with The Beatles, but the Elektrobox version of this classic tune is guaranteed to get mums and dads dancing.

GET IT ON 80S – CALVIN HARRIS VS MARC BOLAN T.Rex were my first favourite band. It is great to be able to play them out again 40 years later thanks to the super funky Calvin Harris.

OUR MAD SUMMER – DRAGONETTE VS MAD PROFESSOR VS THE WHO Gloriously mashed up version of The Who’s classic, My Generation. Then add in a sassie girl rap, a la Gwen Stefani.

. Then add in a sassie girl rap, a la Gwen Stefani. HOT AND FUN –
. Then add in a sassie girl rap, a la Gwen Stefani. HOT AND FUN –

HOT AND FUN – N.E.R.D I’ve got a lot of time for N.E.R.D, but the remix of this song by Boys Noise just goes that bit further. A great electro take on the original bassline by War.

WWW.JEREMYHEALY.COM ONE NATION ARMY – THE WHITE STRIPES VS SWEDISH HOUSE MAFIA Jack White’s seminal

WWW.JEREMYHEALY.COM

WWW.JEREMYHEALY.COM ONE NATION ARMY – THE WHITE STRIPES VS SWEDISH HOUSE MAFIA Jack White’s seminal riff

ONE NATION ARMY – THE WHITE STRIPES VS SWEDISH HOUSE MAFIA Jack White’s seminal riff gets everyone singing along instantly! Then those Swedish boys take it on and spin it around.

Then those Swedish boys take it on and spin it around. GOD LOVE LOCKDOWN – COLDPLAY

GOD LOVE LOCKDOWN – COLDPLAY VS KANYE WEST We all know that what Kanye wants to be more than anything is a rock star – so here he is, backed up by the boys from Coldplay.

REPLICA IN THE DEEP – AFROJACK VS ADELE If you like things to get a bit chaotic, then I promise you that this little ditty will create a moshpit in the middle of any dance floor.

will create a moshpit in the middle of any dance floor. IT’S A BUBBLE – BENI

IT’S A BUBBLE – BENI This is a liquid-funk groove, no doubt destined to be played in stripped down form at Ibiza’s most notorious club, the wonderful DC10, this year.

DON’T STOP ‘TIL YOU GET ENOUGH – MICHAEL JACKSON (GIGAMESH REMIX) The Gigamesh remix is a pumping update , but it still stays true enough to the original, with Quincy Jones’ perfect orchestration intact.

47

ILLUSTRATION BY VESNA PESIC

ILLUSTRATION BY VESNA PESIC LOCAL VOICES THE EVOLUTION OF GULF FASHION BREAKING THE MODE EMIRATI FASHION

LOCAL VOICES

THE EVOLUTION OF GULF FASHION

BREAKING THE MODE

EMIRATI FASHION SENSE IS A LOT MORE COMPLEX THAN IT MAY FIRST SEEM, SAYS WAEL AL SAYEGH

A t first glance, you might be forgiven for thinking that fashion in traditional

Gulf Arab societies is limited to the

strict formula of ‘men wear white and women wear black’. On closer inspection, however, one can clearly see, woven between the seams, a changing story of heritage allied to modernisation, globalisation, and increasing versatility. Gulf Arab clothes are a reflection of the environment and culture they were born from. A desert climate dictates that as much of the body as possible be covered from the powerful rays of the sun. The Arabic word ‘abaya’ means ‘covering’ and usually describes a loose fitting, black over-garment worn by both men and women. Head-coverings for both men and women are also considered very important. Leaving home without covering your head, apart from

being a health hazard in the strong sun, is considered by some to be a shameful act. A man’s abaya, generally known as a bisht, is a long translucent garment decorated with gold embroidery on its sides and worn over a kandoora, the long, usually white, flowing garment. The bisht is normally seen only on very formal occasions such as weddings, graduations, or on visiting the court of a country’s ruler. Its design has changed very little over the years. Ladies’ abayas, by comparison, have seen great changes. Today they are clearly drawing inspiration from other cultures. Whereas they were once a ‘one style and one colour fits all’ affair, now the options for personalisation are seemingly endless. Wide fit, slim fit, tight fit, wide sleeves and tight sleeves are just some of the choices. Depending on how bold and daring one’s character

is, you can opt for see-through fabric or elaborate accessories such as fur, feathers, beads and crystals, or even

a shorter hem to show a little leg.

Some abayas come in muted shades of brown, blue and green. I once saw

a punk-rock style studded abaya that stopped me dead in my tracks. Designers such as Rani Khaoger,

a Saudi, and Lamya Abedin, an

Emirati, have successfully merged Western styles into their designs. These changes to the style of female dress, which some have

dubbed the ‘abaya revolution’, have proved controversial. Gulf Arab traditionalists, who believe the abaya’s primary function is to modestly cover a woman, complain that modern adaptations attract attention to the wearer. The question of how far the concept of ‘abaya’ can be stretched (what point does it start to become a dress?), is an ongoing debate. Men’s kandooras (also known as dishdashas, jalabayas or thobes) have seen changes too. Each Gulf

Cooperation Council (GCC) country traditionally had its own distinctive cut. A notable change over the past few years is the emergence of hybrid styles that show, for example, a Kuwaiti open collar blended with a tight Qatari fit around the chest and shoulders. Coloured winter kandooras, from sky-blue to deep purple, now make their way out of the wardrobe much earlier in the year. The appearance of Nero and Chinese collars is another example of how other cultural influences

A BRIEF HIS

another example of how other cultural influences A BRIEF HIS TORY OF LAWYERS IN THE MOVIES

TORY OF LAWYERS IN

how other cultural influences A BRIEF HIS TORY OF LAWYERS IN THE MOVIES 1957 1959 1962

THE MOVIES

1957 1959 1962 1982 Take 12 disgruntled men, one of whom should be Henry Fonda,
1957
1959
1962
1982
Take 12 disgruntled
men, one of whom
should be Henry Fonda,
bring to the boil and
simmer in a hot room
until they’ve decided
the fate of a slum
dwelling youth accused
of murdering his father.
The recipe for the best
legal drama of all time
– Twelve Angry Men.
With a Saul Bass title
sequence, a score (and
cameo performance)
from jazz great Duke
Ellington, and James
Stewart as lawyer Paul
Biegler, legendary
director Otto
Preminger’s trial
drama, Anatomy Of A
Murder, was never
going to fail, was it?
Gregory Peck won an
Oscar for his portrayal
of lawyer Atticus Finch
in To Kill A Mocking -
bird – the story of the
rape trial of innocent
black man Tom
Robinson. Keep an eye
out for Robert Duvall,
making his debut as
the misunderstood
Arthur ‘Boo’ Radley.
Sidney Lumet’s The
Verdict, in which Paul
Newman stars as Frank
Galvin, an alcoholic
Boston Lawyer trying
to save his reputation
by winning a medical
malpractice case, is
another classic. A prize
for anyone who spots
a young Bruce Willis in
the closing scene.

are being expressed in our clothes. While those of a more conservative religious inclination customarily shorten the hem of their kandoora to ensure it stays clean when it comes to prayer time, others add Western- style shirt pockets and cufflinks. The Gulf Arab clothes industry now includes non-Gulf Arab designers, with brands such as Burberry, Calvin Klein, Christian Dior, Dunhill and Givenchy just some of the big names that have entered the local market from abroad.

Versatility plays a key part in today’s lifestyle. Formal occasions demand different attire from casual life. Men who wear their gotra, (the white or white-and-red scarf for the head) and eqal (the black rope worn around the head to anchor the gotra) in the office, might choose to dress down and wear an esamah (a gotra worn turban-style) at the weekend. Some have even taken to baseball caps as an alternative. When travelling abroad, it is common to adopt full Western

LOCAL VOICES

attire. The change in appearance (from local to Western dress) can be quite startling to those who see the results of a swift transformation that has taken place in an aeroplane’s cramped lavatory. Whichever way you look at Gulf Arab clothes, whether you think they are deliberately defying tradition or are simply evolving naturally to reflect the times we live in, one thing is for sure; there is more to their story than merely ‘men wear white and women wear black’.

story than merely ‘men wear white and women wear black’. 1992 1993 1996 2011 Watch My
1992 1993 1996 2011 Watch My Cousin Vinny and you’ll be glad Joe Pesci’s rooky
1992
1993
1996
2011
Watch My Cousin Vinny
and you’ll be glad Joe
Pesci’s rooky lawyer,
Vincent Laguardia Gam-
bini, isn’t related to you.
Unless you’re one of
two teenagers arrested
for murder in Alabama,
that is. Fred Gwynne’s
(Herman Munster) turn
as Judge Chamberlain
Haller was his last.
Daniel Day-Lewis, Pete
Postlethwaite and
Emma Thompson dis-
play the best of British
in In The Name Of The
Father – the story of
four men wrongly con-
victed of an IRA bomb-
ing and the attempts of
female attorney Gareth
Peirce (Thompson) to
free them.
Barry Levinson’s
Sleepers features four
kids who almost kill
a man with a hot dog
cart, are abused by a re-
form school guard, take
revenge 15 years later
and end up in court
with assistant district
attorney Michael Sul-
livan (Brad Pitt) trying
to get them off.
If the International Bar
Association Conference
was a film, it would
have a cast of thou-
sands, and a crew that
would make Scorsese
blush. With 5,000 legal
delegates coming to
Dubai from October
30 to November 4, this
promises to be quite
the legal blockbuster.

INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW MY TRAVELLED LIFE LEONARD LOGSDAIL, 62, TAILOR ON SAVILE ROW I met my wife, who
INTERVIEW MY TRAVELLED LIFE LEONARD LOGSDAIL, 62, TAILOR ON SAVILE ROW I met my wife, who

MY TRAVELLED LIFE

LEONARD LOGSDAIL, 62, TAILOR

INTERVIEW MY TRAVELLED LIFE LEONARD LOGSDAIL, 62, TAILOR ON SAVILE ROW I met my wife, who

ON SAVILE ROW

I met my wife, who is American, and moved

[from Savile Row] to New York. But I was reading in The Times the other day that the importance of Savile Row has returned to the halcyon days, which is encouraging. They have set up an independent union and are finally coming out of the dark ages.

ON STYLE
ON STYLE

My definition of style is timeless elegance

and the ability to have the courage of ones’ convictions. One should be aware of fashion trends, but always try and stamp your own element of individuality on something.

I always suggest someone should dress

for their shape, and always have a smart, navy suit – you can’t go wrong with one of those. Otherwise, just make sure you don’t look ridiculous. A couple of unfor- giveables are a check shirt with a striped suit, matching ties and pocket squares and short sleeve shirts.

ON ITALY
ON ITALY

My favourite destination is Tuscany. My wife and I visited in 2010 and stayed in an 11th century castle for a few days before moving on to Rome. The Castello di Vicarello boasts

its own vineyard and olive groves, and sits high in the Tuscan hills.

ON TRAVEL STYLE
ON TRAVEL STYLE

If you’re going somewhere hot, make sure you have nice cotton and linen blends – and that applies for shorts and suits alike. Also, include shirts that won’t show perspiration. If travelling to cooler climes, I advise one smart suit – typically the safe navy option – a chino and blazer combination and a shirt for each day.

ON PACKING
ON PACKING

Some suggest using the dry cleaning bags from a hotel to keep the shape of a suit

during travel, which works to a certain extent. Certainly, if you’ve had your shirts laundered, keep them in the plastic covers. It takes up room, but the shirts stay pressed. Some wear their best suit on the flight, where you can hang your jacket onboard.

ON SHORTS
ON SHORTS

Personal style is dictated by the individual. No one would scoff at Brad Pitt wearing shorts on a plane, but might raise an eyebrow at Michael Douglas. As a man of advancing years, no one wants to see my pasty legs, so you won’t see me in shorts, but casual chinos and a shirt might do the trick. Comfort is important.

my pasty legs, so you won’t see me in shorts, but casual chinos and a shirt
my pasty legs, so you won’t see me in shorts, but casual chinos and a shirt

STREET PEEP ER

GLOBAL WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM

STREET PEEP • ER GLOBAL WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM FASHION DIRECTOR, BARNEYS NEW YORK NEW YORK Brooks Brothers shirt

FASHION DIRECTOR, BARNEYS NEW YORK NEW YORK

Brooks Brothers shirt Celine bag Celine shoes

YORK NEW YORK Brooks Brothers shirt Celine bag Celine shoes FASHION DESIGNER, CAMO PARIS Camo MENSWEAR

FASHION DESIGNER,

CAMO

PARIS

Camo

Celine bag Celine shoes FASHION DESIGNER, CAMO PARIS Camo MENSWEAR BUYER NEW YORK Borsalino hat Cantarelli

MENSWEAR BUYER

NEW YORK

Borsalino hat Cantarelli jacket Bergdorf Goodman shirt Simon Spurr tie Lanvin shoes

jacket Bergdorf Goodman shirt Simon Spurr tie Lanvin shoes STYLIST + SOCIALITE LONDON Chanel jacket &

STYLIST + SOCIALITE LONDON

Chanel jacket & skirt

MODEL SYDNEY all vintage MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR, NY TIMES T MAGAZINE NEW YORK Helmut Lang

MODEL

SYDNEY

all vintage

MODEL SYDNEY all vintage MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR, NY TIMES T MAGAZINE NEW YORK Helmut Lang jacket

MEN’S FASHION

DIRECTOR, NY TIMES T MAGAZINE

NEW YORK

Helmut Lang jacket J Crew shirt Brooks Brothers trousers

Helmut Lang jacket J Crew shirt Brooks Brothers trousers MODEL & BLOGGER NEW YORK Marni dress

MODEL & BLOGGER NEW YORK

Marni dress Marni shoes Mark Cross bag

BLOGGER NEW YORK Marni dress Marni shoes Mark Cross bag OROMA ELEWA EDITOR IN CHIEF, POP

OROMA ELEWA EDITOR IN CHIEF,

POP AFRICANA

NEW YORK

Maki Oh dress

55

IMAGES: YONG-KWAN KIM

PLACE

ARCHITECTURE MAPPED ANN DEMEULEMEESTER STORE SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA BUILT 2007

57

57

STORE

URBAN CARTOGRAPHY MAGNOLIA NEW YORK

BAKERY

N ew Yorkers fancy themselves

as few things more than

authentic, independent and

resilient. The epicurean set carry on in the same vein, defiant to uphold the traditions of the corner deli and the all- night diner as much as the next-new- thing eatery. So, it’s little surprise that New York spawned Magnolia Bakery, that local stalwart of scratch baking which turned 15 years old this August. Time was, Magnolia was a single bakery of humble means in the West Village of Manhattan. Today, between locations in the Upper West Side, Grand Central Terminal, and Rockefeller Center, it’s a culinary brand on the march. Its expansion of late has it putting down stakes in a corner storefront space at Bloomingdale’s on Fifth Avenue, and it recently landed in Los Angeles and Dubai. Its calling card may have been an

iconic Sex and the City cupcake cameo 10 years ago, but the folks behind Magnolia tout something else to explain its lasting power: nostalgia. “Every neighbourhood had a bakery,” explains Steven Abrams, Magnolia’s owner. “They’ve disappeared now.” “Where I grew up in Queens,” says Abrams, 53, “there were all these bakeries. Those places have slowly died out, leaving a hole in the culture — and we’ve filled it.” No base, no mix — no problem, claims the Magnolia management. As Bonnie Lloyd, Magnolia’s President and Chief Baking

As Bonnie Lloyd, Magnolia’s President and Chief Baking WORDS: JEFFREY MACINTYRE / IMAGE: JACQUELINE KLASSEN 58

WORDS: JEFFREY MACINTYRE

/

IMAGE: JACQUELINE KLASSEN

Officer says: “We started with classic chocolate and classic vanilla. We’ve added to the mix.

Officer says: “We started with classic chocolate and classic vanilla. We’ve

added to the mix. But I shouldn’t say that

— there is no mix. “We bake about 120 variations of these products every day in all our stores, including cupcakes,” she adds. According to Lloyd, also 53, there is little risk of this bakery becoming a victim of its own much-hyped success. “We know what our customers like and what sells well. We can adjust our baking over the course of a day.” Magnolia’s clientele runs the gamut

of men and women, locals and tourists alike. The Magnolia menu is full of baked goods of every sort. Prices range from $1 up to ritzy cakes north of $50. Yet for all the small-town pretense, Magnolia is a powerhouse, a name recognisable to anyone who has read

a New York travel guide in the last

decade, let alone the syndicated long tail of Sex And The City fame. Still, this clout may prove key in shoring up its argument of prolonging the baking traditions of bygone days. “In this country where packaged foods have been part of the culture since the 1970s, It’s rare to have a bakery that really bakes,” says Lloyd. We bake on our premises. We’ve been doing it for 15 years, so there’s no reason to change a formula that works.”

so there’s no reason to change a formula that works.” Magnolia Bakery, 401 Bleeker Street, New

Magnolia Bakery, 401 Bleeker Street, New York,

(212) 462-2572; www.magnoliabakery.com

59

BOOTY FRANKFURT WE PICK UP SOME STYLISH SUITCASE FILLERS IN GERMANY 1
BOOTY
FRANKFURT
WE PICK UP SOME
STYLISH SUITCASE
FILLERS IN GERMANY
1

1

Karate Chicken, $58. Who says the Germans have no sense of humour?

Rötzel & Co, Berliner St. 42

2

Shopping Pad, $8. Never forget your list again with this rather quirky notepad.

ITABA, Töngesgasse 42

3

Figurine, $29. Gloriously upbeat design from a local Frankfurt artist.

Rötzel & Co, Berliner St. 42

3
3

2

4

5

6

German Vinyl $3. Old school German pop. Record player

032c magazine, $14. Hip German style magazine.

+-0 Alarm Clock, $56 Japanese design with Asian simplicity.

not included.

Ubervart, Kleiner

Form Im Raum,

Oxfam, Töngesgasse 35

Hirschgraben 14

Berliner Str. 60

4
4

5

6

CALENDAR

SEOUL FILM & VIDEO FESTIVAL Explore Seoul’s creativity at the Experimental Film & Video Festival.
SEOUL FILM & VIDEO FESTIVAL
Explore Seoul’s creativity at the
Experimental Film & Video Festival.
www.ex-is.org
BRAZILIAN INDEPENDENCE DAY
Celebrate the biggest party in
samba-crazy Brazil.
www.braziltour.com
8
4
11
9
7
2
12
3
6
1
14
13
10
Thu
Sat
Sat
Tue
Mon
Fri
Sun
Sun
5
Thu
Wed
Fri
Tue
Mon
Wed
Tue Mon Fri Sun Sun 5 Thu Wed Fri Tue Mon Wed NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 16 Fashion is practically a religion in New York – and
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
16
Fashion is practically a religion in
New York – and this is its holy week.
www.mbfashionweek.com
15
17
19
Fri
Sun
18
Sat
Thu
Mon
RHINE IN FLAMES
The banks of The Rhine will be
ablaze in pyrotechnic beauty.
www.rhein-in-flammen.com

september

20 Tue 21 Wed 22 Thu Fri 23 Sat 24 25 Sun Mon 26 Tue
20
Tue
21
Wed
22
Thu
Fri
23
Sat
24
25
Sun
Mon
26
Tue
27
Wed
28
Thu
BEIJING FRINGE FESTIVAL
Fri
30 29
Plays, concerts and performances
pop up all over China’s capital.
www.beijing-tourism.com
63

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COSMIC CONSTRUCTS BEAUTY EDGE THE SOVIET AT THE EMPIRE OF P98
COSMIC
CONSTRUCTS
BEAUTY
EDGE
THE SOVIET
AT THE EMPIRE
OF
P98
66
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67

FASHION FAIL

T hey say pop will eat itself. If fashion ever ate anything, it would probably do the same. Like an addict, the

industry keeps consuming the same thing over and over again, hoping this time the thrill will last. But it never does. Once a line hits the runway it’s already obsolete, ready to be ground down and served up all over again. Like an addict, fashion lies, cheats and is really only concerned with itself. Once it finds a new addiction – a new model, muse, or designer – it only wants more of the same. Once you’ve hung around with it for a while, it can get, well, kind of boring. I work closely with the fashion industry in Australia. But I’m not going to tell you my real name. Not because I’m scared the hipsters might come to my door and do something nasty. But because I’m afraid they’ll stop doling out my pay cheques. Yeah, I’m one of them. Sorry about that. But think of this as a confession, an airing of dirty size-zero laundry, a report from the velvet trenches. I’ll admit it:

I am a self-loathing fashionista and I’m biting the hand that feeds me. Fashion is neurotic. It’s this way because wrapped up at the heart of it lies a paradox. Fashion is all about newness, but these days there are very few genuinely new ideas to be had. No matter how outrageous the label, each collection must consist of the same basic things: frocks, separates, accessories. Occasionally a new variation will arise – the playsuit or harem pants – until consumers realise (slowly, usually) how hideous they make everyone look, at which point they’ll be quietly shelved for

realise (slowly, usually) how hideous they make everyone look, at which point they’ll be quietly shelved
realise (slowly, usually) how hideous they make everyone look, at which point they’ll be quietly shelved
realise (slowly, usually) how hideous they make everyone look, at which point they’ll be quietly shelved
realise (slowly, usually) how hideous they make everyone look, at which point they’ll be quietly shelved
realise (slowly, usually) how hideous they make everyone look, at which point they’ll be quietly shelved
a few years before they come round once more. Again displayed as utterly new, unique,
a few years before they come round once more. Again displayed as utterly new, unique,
a few years before they come round once more. Again displayed as utterly new, unique,
a few years before they come round once more. Again displayed as utterly new, unique,
a few years before they come round once more. Again displayed as utterly new, unique,

a few years before they come round

once more. Again displayed as utterly new, unique, boundary-breaking, zeitgeist-making. Yes, silhouettes change and colours morph over time. But here too, novelty is a sham. The 1970s plundered the 19th century, the 1980s looked to the 1940s (ask your grandma – those power shoulder pads were nothing new), the 1990s nicked stuff from the 1970s, and since the turn of the millennium we’ve churned through 1980s and now we’re back to the 1990s again. Plus there’s the rotating, same-same triumvirate of nautical looks (sailor hats, blue and white stripes, anchor motifs), safari (animal print, ridiculous Out

of Africa costumes) and chinoiserie (giving Chinese factory workers a chance to produce simulacra of their country’s rich heritage for Western high streets). The whole industry is really just going round and round in ever-decreasing circles. But they’re hoping if they move fast enough you’ll be sucked in just the same. Perhaps we in the media should be

doing a better job at calling them out, but, as I say, they pay my wages and

– through big budget ad campaigns –

my company’s bills, too. They also fill our wardrobes. You didn’t really think we could afford Christian Louboutin heels and Balenciaga dresses on journalists’ wages. did you? Whatever fashion is about, we’re about too. But at the same time we’re bored, listless, looking for novelty (you try and write your 26th completely unrealistic story about why it’s OK to wear shorts to the office or your millionth expose on new pastels for summer and see how you feel). Which

is why, like our fashion industry

FASHION FAIL

colleagues, we’ll grab on to just about anything exciting that comes along – especially if it seems dangerous, provocative, mad or potentially illegal. Since mainstream fashion’s stash of new ideas burnt out decades ago, everything original comes from outsiders – the weirder and more messed up the better. But the cutting edge is called that for a reason. It hurts and it often leaves its victims slashed and bloody in the process. Fashion has always had a thing for self-destruction. Witness its morbid fascination with brilliant but doomed chanteuse Amy Winehouse. In 2007, Karl Lagerfeld made her his muse for his December Chanel show. Even when it was clear the damaged singer was in freefall, fashion was still knocking at her door. Her posthumous line for Fred Perry has already gone on sale. At a photo shoot before her death a writer for Harper’s Bazaar described her as

“unsteady

the (fashion) show went on. Fashion’s chief purveyors are famously unstable. Sometimes tragically so – the hanging suicide of designer Alexander McQueen and self-administered poisoning of stylist Isabella Blow are at the saddest, most extreme, end of the spectrum. But then there’s Donatella Versace’s well-publicised, long-running drug addiction; Naomi Campbell’s thuggish antics; photographer Terry Richardson’s alleged, less than professional dealings with his young models. All are still working though: in fashion-think, criminals are always cool. Sure there’s the occasional hypocritical slapping of wrists: John Galliano was fired from Christian Dior after video footage of

barely intelligible” but

him abusing two women he thought were Jewish and drunkenly declaring “I love Hitler” surfaced on the TV news. But was it the anti-Semitism or the fact it got leaked that finally tipped logo overlords LVMH over the edge? Kate Moss was dropped by Chanel, H&M and Burberry after her 2005 drug scandal. But, she’s still the third best-paid model in the world, raking in $13.5 million a year.

model in the world, raking in $13.5 million a year. Everything original in fashion comes from

Everything original in fashion comes from outsiders, the weirder and more messed up the better

from outsiders, the weirder and more messed up the better Even without the tabloid lifestyle, Moss

Even without the tabloid lifestyle, Moss herself has always courted outrage. Her waifish frame ushered in the era of painfully thin models in the mid 1990s, and 15 years later it’s still going strong. Given fashion’s yen for reinvention, it might seem odd that the super-skinny ideal has stuck around so long. I’m certainly ready for it to end. Every fashion shoot I’ve been on, I divide my time between hating myself for treating the 14 or 15-year- old models like (very lean) pieces of meat and figuring out ways to cover up bony clavicles, knobbly knees, fragile-looking forearms. Eating disorders are so widespread no one even notices them anymore. Some time ago, I issued a spotter’s guide to bulimics and anorexics for my photographers and stylists so they’d know who to turn away. Look for hairy arms, pinched lips, mood swings and brittle nails, I said, and

unnaturally plump cheeks caused by acidic vomit irritating the inside of the mouth. But I still sometimes get pictures of girls whose thighs are smaller than their knees. They’re standard issue these days. To sell clothes to adult women, fashion looks to pre-pubescents. There’s an old episode of Absolutely Fabulous where Patsy says something like, “If the models get any younger they’ll be throwing foetuses down the runway.” These days, that seems more like prophecy than comedy. Vogue and Elle were recently called out for sexploitation after using a 10-year- old model in their editorial shoots. Photos of Thylane Blondeau have her heavily made-up, dressed in vampish clothing, posing as a seductress,

a femme fatale. British Prime

Minister David Cameron has publicly denounced the photos, and yes it’s shocking – that’s exactly what fashion wants. But in truth, Thylane isn’t that much younger than most girls in the modelling world. Give her 10 or so years and she’ll be over the hill. But childhood isn’t the only place fashion stalks those with flat chests and freakishly long legs. The newest ‘It Girl’ of the modelling world is actually a man – 19-year-old Andrej Pejic – whose androgynous looks have seen him walk in shows for Givenchy and Jean Paul Gaultier. His topless cover for Dossier

magazine was censored by Barnes & Noble “in case customers confuse him for a woman”. Which you’d think was the whole point. Andrej is pretty: he was even voted number 98 in FHM’s 100 Sexiest Women in the World poll this year. And he seems like a nice bloke (he’s from my hometown, so

I might be biased). But along with

FASHION FAIL

kiddie models like Thylane and regular catwalk waifs, he represents something I’ve always found sinister about the industry that pays my wages. The ongoing campaign to demonise traditional womanly features – breasts, bottoms, thighs. So far as fashion’s concerned, curves are gross and not very profitable. Obesity, as Karl Lagerfeld, the industry’s ever-shrinking, ghoulish godfather, so politely points out, is a social issue: “In France there are, I think, less than one per cent of people who are too skinny,” he says. “There are nearly 30 per cent of young people who are too fat. So let’s take care of the zillions of the too-fat before we talk about the percentage that’s left.” But what he fails to mention is how extreme skinniness is what his industry runs on. It’s the ultimate drug, knocking life into merchandising, retail and branding. Pumping money into the veins of haute couture, if not food into the bellies of its adherents. Fashion is meant to sell clothes. Clothes are bought in stores on racks, hanging from coat hangers or – increasingly – on the internet, displayed flat against white studio backgrounds. What matters here is not looking good on a person, but looking good on a hanger. When people do have to enter the equation, in places like catwalk shows and editorial shoots,

it makes sense to hire the human equivalent of those clothes hangers. Pre-pubescents, teens who’ve dodged puberty through starvation and (occasionally) skinny men all fit the bill perfectly. Yes, fashion is meant to sell clothes. But these days they’re almost beside the point. The grand design houses are multi-million dollar operations and a large chunk of their

revenue comes not from clothing, but assorted brand extensions: perfume lines, handbags, licensing deals. In a way, the clothes are just a front. The people who wear them are walking, talking brand ambassadors, meant to inspire the rest of us who can’t afford $10,000 for a one-season frock to instead drop our cash on branded scents, accessories, TV shows, credit cards. The industry doesn’t want fatties

for ambassadors. That’s why average-sized women can’t find prêt-à-porter clothes that fit. They were never meant for them. And that’s why fashion needs scandal, it needs column inches, it needs

that fit. They were never meant for them. And that’s why fashion needs scandal, it needs
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FASHION FAIL

attention. It sells dreams rather than clothes. Sometimes it sells nightmares. Thus Galliano’s Hitler-loving scandal (nothing so cutting-edge as fascism) is just as good for the industry as its occasional – and grotesquely ironic – flirtation with regular-sized women. Fashion loves a freak. When Vogue Italia recently put three plus-sized models on its cover it wasn’t staking a claim for the female of the species, it was saying: “Hey, look at these weirdos! Please buy multiple copies and cover us extensively in the fashion media! Look how avant garde we are!” Vogue might not be running quite as scared as the rest of the traditional print media (though its circulation figures are starting to decline in some territories), but it’s a bastion of fashion’s old guard. Emphasis on ‘old’. The new black in terms of fashion media comes not from big publishing houses, but bloggers like Tavi Gevinson (a 15-year-old) and street-style photographers such as The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman. These are the folk filling the front rows of fashion shows right now. They’re something new to play with. And while they might have started off subverting fashion’s strict hierarchy, these days they’re part of the pecking order. With fashion’s new focus on street

style, ‘recessionistas’ and mixing designer threads with chain-store buys, the wider industry – those slaving away beyond the Milan- Paris-New York axis – is under greater scrutiny. What happens in the world of haute couture happens on the high street. As Meryl Streep’s thinly veiled Anna Wintour parody, Miranda Priestly, says in The Devil Wears Prada: “You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select that lumpy

blue sweater

know is that that sweater is not just blue. It’s not turquoise. It’s not lapis. It’s actually cerulean. And you’re also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002 Oscar de la Renta did a

collection of cerulean gowns

then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin.”

But it’s not just colourways filtering down from on high. It’s ethics, too. The fashion world’s dark underbelly

– found in sweatshops with poor

working conditions, non-unionised labour, child workers and pitiful pay

– is all too easy to see, but few bother

but what you don’t

and

to look. And don’t think those ‘Made in Germany’ or ‘Made in America’ labels get you off the hook. Sweatshops exist pretty much everywhere. And the labels are just as easy to sew on overseas. You can buy big reels of them in the backstreets of Hong Kong. On buying trips, we used to joke that there must be factories in Shenzhen called ‘Germany’, ‘France’ and ‘USA’. Fast-fashion brands rip off young designers’ work – America’s Forever 21 alone has been sued over 50 times for stealing the work of others and passing it off as its own. And retail workers at chains like American Apparel complain of sexual harassment, exploitation and other assorted dodgy practices. It’s a grim picture for an industry that worships beauty. But there you have it. High, low, in- between – all levels of fashion have skeletons in the closet. And only some of them are the ones draped in silk and high-stepping down the runways. Sometimes I find fashion’s wilful ignorance funny. My favourite fashion anecdote to tell outsiders – one I’m sure sums up the whole thing on some vast, metaphorical

The fashion world’s dark underbelly, in sweatshops with child workers, poor conditions and pitiful pay,

The fashion world’s dark underbelly, in sweatshops with child workers, poor conditions and pitiful pay, is all too easy to see

poor conditions and pitiful pay, is all too easy to see level – takes place in

level – takes place in my hometown. Every Autumn, Melbourne hosts the L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival. The weather here is famously changeable, especially in those ‘transeasonal’ days. Sometimes the festival is freezing, sometimes it’s blazing hot. Most events are held in the city’s Docklands area – originally a marshland, then a staging ground for portside industries like cargo handling, tanneries and abattoirs before being revamped as an inner-city yuppie lifestyle zone. And when the weather’s hot it still reeks of dead fish. During Fashion Week, thousands of models, journalists, designers

and buyers troop through and I’ve never heard one of them complain about the smell. Even when their eyes are nearly watering and the occasional fly buzzes past. They’re too busy being fabulous to notice the decay around them. Too intent on chasing the next ‘it’ thing to realise that what they’re doing stinks. I’m one of them, so I can’t exactly wash my hands of the whole thing. But I can tell you, there’s something rotten with the state of fashion.

you, there’s something rotten with the state of fashion. *Ann Black is the pseudonym of a

*Ann Black is the pseudonym of a fashion insider with more than ten years of experience in the industry.

of fashion. *Ann Black is the pseudonym of a fashion insider with more than ten years

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HONG KONG’S TAILORS

O n an inclined street

in the north-west of

Hong Kong Island,

a woman extends

a purple, likely

fake, Nike wallet in need of fixing. The fabric loop that can be used to hold a key ring has come undone; all it wants are a couple of quick, violet stitches. From his hawker stall, a canopied box of metal and wood painted in the usual primary green, the tailor accepts. The wallet passes briefly beneath Boon Cheung Luk’s rusted sewing machine and the work is done. The single city block is a close- packed village of these emerald huts, every one trading in some service or good. Cars are not authorised on this part of the hill, but above and below the traffic is a force. Luk perches on a stool in the small space between the counter and his needled machine, lean and grinning through patent exhaustion. His face is lined with deep creases, his grey trousers perfectly starched. Like a doctor who specialises in a field of medicine, a tailor must choose his course from the start: he is either a cutter or a sewer. Luk is a cutter. Even now, when on the rare occasion asked, he carves out men’s button-down shirts and trousers with a pair of heavy scissors, sending them to local craftsmen to be stitched. But quality sewers are in short supply. It is just as well, he says. “I am getting old, too. I don’t have the energy to do so much work.” Fifty-odd years ago, Luk, then 12, came to Hong Kong by boat from the nearby Chinese province of Guangdong. He began as a teenage apprentice in his cousin’s workroom, where, some way into four years of

training, he learned to outfit calling tourists. After a short stint operating his own tailor shop, he landed in an

atelier in the Central district that

catered to European sailors. He worked there, cutting the fabric for elaborate uniforms and eveningwear, for more than 20 years. The store closed on New Year’s Eve, 2000. Luk

have generally had to outsource their work to China. Factories, many of them in the burgeoning Chinese

border city of Shenzhen, churn out in 24 hours the jobs these Hong Kongers once took weeks to complete. But it

is nearly impossible to control the

quality of the finished pieces that return, which is why some, like Luk,

finished pieces that return, which is why some, like Luk, Soaring rents and a dwindling demand

Soaring rents and a dwindling demand have made it difficult for all but the most upscale and illustrious shops to survive

all but the most upscale and illustrious shops to survive moved to his roadside stall the

moved to his roadside stall the next day, assuming control from its ill and retired owner. “Eighty per cent of my customers come with new clothes that don’t fit well or old ones that are coming apart,” says the man who has spent most of his life dressing gentlemen in garments made to order. Until two or three years ago he still sometimes undertook the laborious process of creating, from scratch, on the narrow counter of that stifling green stand, a suit. Patrons would choose among the swathes of wool, cotton and heavy tweed that hang behind him, trapped in glass. “Not anymore,” says Luk. “Now they’re just for decoration.” Hong Kong’s esteemed tailoring trade has, over the past few decades, been in steady decline. Or, as Luk puts it: “This industry is dying.” Soaring rents and a dwindling demand for all things tailor-crafted have made it difficult for all but the most upscale and illustrious shops to survive. To cope with labour costs, those smaller, lesser-known tailors left standing

have chosen to avoid the mainland. “I refuse to ruin my reputation to make

a few extra dollars,” he says. Beyond

retirement, the only other option for these sifus, or technical masters, is to turn almost entirely to alterations. Yum Kuen Tsu can recall a time when tailor’s shops lined King’s Road and their foremen regularly enlisted his skill. But by 1997, the year of the city’s handover from British to Chinese rule, they had started to close. “The last time I made a shirt from start to finish was 10 years ago,” he says from a seat inside his stand, the only alterations stop in the neighbourhood. The makeshift booth, cobbled together from wood scraps and striped with black and white paint, clings to the residential building next door. It is easy to miss. What began as a lone potted plant has climbed the wall and burst over the

top of the stall, obscuring it in a fit of leafy greenery. Tsu, stooped over his old, black Singer machine, his watch and two calendars dangling overhead,

is shortening a pair of blue jeans

YUM KUEN TSU AT WORK IN HIS BOOTH IN CENTRAL HONG KONG
YUM KUEN TSU AT WORK IN HIS BOOTH IN CENTRAL HONG KONG

HONG KONG’S TAILORS

with an elastic waist. A full-length

mirror tacked to the kiosk’s facade invites customers to use the street as

a fitting room. On the rough plank

of one sidewall, an advisory in green lettering reads: “The Moment Which Is Lost Is Lost Forever.” The work of patching holes, of

letting fabric out and taking fabric in,

is nowhere near as time and material-

consuming as bespoke tailoring. And

it is regular, dependable – so long as

people purchase ready-made clothes, they will need to have them altered.

Tsu is ageing quickly – “I can’t see clearly anymore,” he says, his words slow and cracked, his legs emaciated in denim cutoffs – but these are

tasks he can still well manage. With earnings of about $13 a day, he is able to come up with the annual government fee that occupying such

a stall necessitates. By law, these

outdoor stands can only be registered

in a single name and cannot be passed on. When Tsu goes, the stand will go, too. In any case, there is no one in line to lay claim to it – or the trade its tenant belongs to. That the youth of Hong Kong have no interest in inheriting, or resuscitating, the tailor’s craft is the final blow. The most recent generation of apprentices are now in their mid-50s. Their children, who are increasingly prolonging their studies, find the pay and the protracted

is to outfit themselves in suits of the highest calibre – not to piece them together. “They don’t have our patience,” says Mabel Wu, who for two decades has owned a workroom on the seventh floor of an apartment building in the congested hotel mecca of Tsim Sha Tsui, a high-rise district that juts out into the harbour. At 20, Wu answered a newspaper ad and came to learn under a Mr Wong, master of women’s apparel. She stayed on for eight years; for the

of women’s apparel. She stayed on for eight years; for the In Hong Kong, young people

In Hong Kong, young people want to outfit themselves in suits of the highest calibre, not piece them together

in suits of the highest calibre, not piece them together training that come with the calling

training that come with the calling unattractive. In this, Asia’s economic and financial nerve centre, their aim

first two she could do nothing but observe, sweep the floors and answer the phones. “He was so skilled,” she

THE PAINSTAKING NATURE OF THE BUSINESS HAS PUT OFF POTENTIAL NEW RECRUITS
THE PAINSTAKING NATURE OF THE BUSINESS HAS PUT OFF POTENTIAL NEW RECRUITS

remembers of her teacher, “he didn’t even need the help of a paper pattern in order to cut.” The tailoress sits cross-legged in the tiny studio, her age belied by a pixie cut, short gauzy skirt and earrings like bunches of silvery grapes. In the corner by the door is her collection of miniature sewing machines; trinkets save for one that actually stitches and doubles as a working phone. Behind a square cutting table draped in white cloth are three life-sized machines, spaced just inches apart, for the seamstresses who share in her work. Mostly they perform alterations; only occasionally will they fashion a skirt or a blouse. It is hard to imagine four women in the room at once. “People are set on buying from the boutique or the internet,” Wu says, “even if it’s more expensive that way.” (Once, she tells, a man brought in two identical pairs of ill-fitting designer jeans and asked that they be used to make a single pair of well-fitting ones). She is still hoping to pass her knowledge on to an apprentice, even though, as she says, “there are no youngsters joining us; they think it is a useless trade.” But Wu won’t advertise for a trainee. “I’m leaving it up to fate.” Across the waters of Victoria Harbour, another dressmaker contemplates her age. Avon Lo runs Margaret Court Tailoress in Lan Kwai Fong, the renowned strip that at night becomes a haven for inebriated, bar- hopping tourists (Margaret herself is retired). Her shop is perhaps the best known of a fast-diminishing number with an expertise in women’s custom clothing. But a loyal client base may not be enough to save it. Old buildings in the neighbourhood of the kind the

save it. Old buildings in the neighbourhood of the kind the REELS OF THREAD IN AVON

REELS OF THREAD IN AVON LO’S WORKSHOP (ABOVE) AND (BELOW), SOME OF THE TOOLS OF THE TRADE

WORKSHOP (ABOVE) AND (BELOW), SOME OF THE TOOLS OF THE TRADE atelier inhabits are being razed

atelier inhabits are being razed at an unsettling rate to make way for more watering holes. And every two years, Lo’s rent shoots up. When it climbs

again in 2012, she may not oblige.

“We are getting

“When you do one thing for so long Everyone is tired. We need rest.” She

old!” she sighs.

HONG KONG’S TAILORS

has been working with the same few seamstresses for nearly three decades. They came to Margaret Court together, 18 years ago. Lo shuffles, small and bespectled, from one attraction to the next. Here, swatches of Thai silk and chiffon are purchasable by the metre. There, a stack of yellowing style books, the tome at the top is from 1996, filled with ladies in patterned vests and bold skirt suits. She pulls from a stuffed plastic folder sheet after sheet of her own hand drawings – sketches done in blue pen and sometimes stapled to the magazine images her customers have asked her to recreate. “See this?

Look here! See this?” Soon, all of the jobs done over the past months are before her, in paper form. Lo shields the mound with her slight frame to keep it from toppling. The women who have worn themselves out with her are also at work; one marks gold tissue for cutting with a fragment of blue chalk. The base rate for an evening gown of the kind she is crafting, fabric

not included, is $230. A wedding gown, like the one draped between the two curtains of an improvised fitting room, strapless and gossamer white, is significantly more. To lower prices, they would have to delegate to mainland factories. “And I won’t do that,” Lo says. Neither will the operators of WW CHAN & SONS, one of the last

will the operators of WW CHAN & SONS, one of the last To lower prices, they

To lower prices, they would have to delegate to the factories in mainland China, which is something that they will not do

in mainland China, which is something that they will not do AVON LO WORRIES HIGH RENTS
AVON LO WORRIES HIGH RENTS WILL FORCE HER OUT OF HER LOCATION IN THE CITY’S
AVON LO WORRIES HIGH RENTS WILL FORCE HER OUT OF HER LOCATION IN THE CITY’S CENTRAL DISTRICT

HONG KONG’S TAILORS

tailoring establishments in the city rooted firmly in the Shanghainese tradition. WW Chan, now 90, was a pupil of the legendary ‘hongbang’ (literally ‘red group’) tailors, so-called, it is said, because the foreigners they catered to in the Shanghai of the 1920s and ‘30s were often redheaded. Many of those garment men were natives of Ningbo, in the eastern coastal province of Zhejiang, and no small number of them would eventually flee to Hong Kong to escape the political turmoil on the mainland. A graduate of China’s earliest tailoring school, Chan opened a first shop in Hong Kong in 1950, relocating to the second floor of Burlington House, a high-rise in Tsim Sha Tsui, 15 years later. The place is there still, insisting on a standard of quality that only the biggest names can aspire to. Blocks from Burlington House, two Indian men jog back and forth, pursuing potential customers across Nathan Road, waving fliers with an urgency. “Need a tailor? Ladies’ shirts! Cheap suits! Free tie!” Frenzied touts peddling electronics and plugging restaurants are a permanent fixture of Kowloon, and they have not overlooked the tourist tailoring business. As with every market they have tried to corner, the hawkers, typically members of Hong Kong’s large and long-established South Asian population, trade in package deals. It is unlikely that the goods they have made up, mostly in Shenzhen, ever quite match in calibre the men’s doggedness in chasing sightseers and shouting prices. WW CHAN & SONS, on the second floor of the old, elevatorless building, is a world apart from the city stirring

THE LAST TIME TSU MADE A SHIRT FROM START TO FINISH WAS 10 YEARS AGO
THE LAST TIME TSU MADE A SHIRT FROM START TO FINISH WAS 10 YEARS AGO

HONG KONG’S TAILORS

ARTISANS IN WW CHAN & SON’S WORKSHOP PIECE TOGETHER SUITS ALL IMAGES: GRISCHA RÜSCHENDORF
ARTISANS IN WW CHAN & SON’S WORKSHOP PIECE TOGETHER SUITS
ALL IMAGES: GRISCHA RÜSCHENDORF

outside. The shop is outfitted in the deep mahogany of a cigar lounge, its vast countertops fronted by rose velvet chairs. Tailors cut in the centre of the elegantly sparse space, pinning paper patterns to fabric with marble slabs. Generations of bankers and lawyers have been fitted here and asked to admire themselves in dressing rooms paneled on all sides with mirrors. “After you go bespoke, if you can afford it, you never go back,” says general manager Patrick Chu, who has been with the company for over 20 years. By Shanghainese custom, every stitch is done by hand save for the suit’s main seam. Chu gently lays out a charcoal jacket of thick wool.

Minute black dashes process over the lapel and across the borders of its glossy sapphire lining, every one a testament to manual labour. Even the buttonholes, ringed in silk thread, are the products of nothing but a few nimble fingers. In a workshop one flight up, those fingers are flying. Half of the 20 artisans employed by WW CHAN & Son’s are sewing through the current shift, just about all of them T-shirted men between the ages of 50 and 60. Some stand, some sit on wooden stools, half-finished suits of mixed English and Italian design – sleeveless or lining-less or patterned with white thread — hanging above them. Amid the clutter of material scraps and

spools of thread, of irons rigged with slim hoses to suspended water jugs and the noise of a Cantonese radio programme, they seem suspended in time. One is fashioning a small black pocket. Another is flattening the navy cloth of a jacket – just one takes close to 60 hours to complete – against a rigid pillow that is meant to simulate a man’s chest. And in the backroom, a boy in his 20s, almost startling in his youth. Time starts up again. There is much to learn, and though he may be alone, he is there, measuring fabric with a wooden ruler, ready to receive it.

measuring fabric with a wooden ruler, ready to receive it. Hillary Brenhouse is a freelance writer

Hillary Brenhouse is a freelance writer based in Hong Kong.

THE 1967 GUIDE TO GETTING AHEAD IN STYLE, LIFE, LOVE AND BUSINESS, BY EDITH HEAD

THE 1967 GUIDE TO GETTING AHEAD IN STYLE, LIFE, LOVE AND BUSINESS, BY EDITH HEAD

INTRODUCT I ON In your search for success, of course, clothes cannot take the place
INTRODUCT I ON
In your search for success, of course, clothes cannot take the
place of the essential qualities needed for that success. Looking
like a super-efficient executive secretary may help you get the
job, but it won’t help you punctuate the letters. Looking like a
perfect homemaker may impress the eligible bachelor you invite for
dinner, but it won’t disguise the fact that your coffee tastes like mud.
Clothes can make you look the part you want to play, but they
can’t replace the ability to play it. So don’t make success impossible
by wanting something for which your skills, abilities and talents
are hopelessly inadequate. Don’t set your heart on a job or a man
which you can’t handle, or can’t get. Aim high — but keep your
goals achievable.

89

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

Women come in a vast variety of recognisable basic types: the cute type, the majestic type, the dainty type, the boyish type, the clinging- vine type, the outdoor-girl type, the sexy type, and many others. Decide right now which basic type you are. Ask yourself how big a part your clothes have played in making you that type. Would you rather be a different type? Would you prefer being chic to being cute, looking dramatic to looking majestic, appearing more feminine, less mousey, more striking? What you wear, more than any other factor, can improve the type you are or change your type completely. Throughout my career I have used clothes to turn drudges into princesses, plain Janes into glamour girls, frumps into fashion plates. As one of my star friends

insists, “If Cinderella had Edith Head, she’d never have needed a Fairy Godmother.”

Edith Head, she’d never have needed a Fairy Godmother.” IN BUSINESS Success in business means different

IN BUSINESS

Success in business means different things to different women. To some women and girls, their business lives are merely intervals between the time they leave school and the time they get married. To them a successful business career is a short one, leading not to the front office, but straight to the altar with a golden ring on the finger. If you are in this group we devote [the following] to you. But in the meantime we suggest you make the most of your success story at the office by reading this chapter too. Who knows, you might marry the boss!

What you wear for that interview will also depend to some extent on the calibre of the job you’re after. It is obvious that if you are being interviewed for a secretarial position that pays from $65 to $100 a week, wearing a $5,000 mink coat or lavish jewellery will not be good judgment even if your father is a millionaire. We talked to numerous personnel directors, and their consensus of opinion is that in hiring young people for secretarial or other clerical work, they want people that fit in with the general character of the organisation and with the other personnel. Obviously a girl with a millionaire’s wardrobe could only incur envy and animosity among a group of girls less richly endowed. The basic elements of any business woman’s wardrobe should rely on this trio: simple casual suits, tailored

endowed. The basic elements of any business woman’s wardrobe should rely on this trio: simple casual

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

DRESS FOR SUCCESS dresses and good separates (shirts, blouses, sweaters and other tops). Before you are

dresses and good separates (shirts, blouses, sweaters and other tops). Before you are interviewed for the job you want, try on the complete outfit you intend to wear. Look at yourself in the mirror from every angle, including sitting down which is the way you will look most of the time to the person who will make the decision. Ask yourself these questions: (a) Do I look well groomed? (b) Do I look neat? (c) Do I feel comfortable and at ease? (d) Does my skirt ride up too much? (e) Have I worn too much (or too little) (f) Does this outfit really fit the image of the position I hope to fill? We have known instances where extremely capable women failed to get a job because they looked too elegantly put together. One personnel director confided to us in a specific case: "I didn’t hire her simply because I felt anyone that looked that attractive

would have a date every night of the week and would never be free to stay until 5.15pm in an emergency." This doesn’t mean that dressing to get a job should be an effort to make your self less attractive. It means you should look your best — but your business best rather than your beau-catching best. Vast changes have taken place in the past 20 years in ‘types’ of dressing. Remember when the word ‘schoolteacher’ conjured up a vision of a hard-bitten, flat-chested, flat- heeled, bespectacled female with no more sex appeal than a dishpan? Gone are those days. Schoolteachers today look as pretty and fashionable as other businesswomen, but they don’t come into the classroom done up like 'Sex Goddesses'. Today men expect this same kind of authenticity in theatrical costuming — and they expect the

authenticity in theatrical costuming — and they expect the What does getting ahead mean? Ending up

What does getting ahead mean? Ending up a private secretary to the president?

ahead mean? Ending up a private secretary to the president? same kind of ‘fitness for the

same kind of ‘fitness for the occasion’ in everything you wear too. In Hollywood we call this aspect of costuming the ‘acceptance look’

a good term to have in your own wardrobe vocabulary.

look’ a good term to have in your own wardrobe vocabulary. ON HOW TO DRESS Again

ON HOW TO DRESS

Again you have to have a specific goal in mind. What does getting ahead mean — merely getting a $5 raise every six months? Or does it mean moving gradually or quickly up the ladder to genuine career status? A private secretary to the president?

A private office of your own? Or

whatever is your goal? No doubt you will have noticed that the female executives in your chosen field make a point of dressing a little differently from the run-of-the-mill office girls. Where the girls in the

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DRESS FOR SUCCESS

DRESS FOR SUCCESS stenographic pool come into the office in sweaters and skirts, the executive in

stenographic pool come into the office in sweaters and skirts, the executive in charge wears a completely co-ordinated costume. Where the receptionist may go to lunch with a scarf over her head and no gloves, the executive-to-be wears a smart hat and gloves, if only to set her apart from the crowd. She eschews ‘faddy’ here-today- gone-tomorrow styles for things that reflect quality and taste. She resists the desire to have a lot of changes in her wardrobe in order to concentrate on fewer, more elegantly fashioned costumes that do more for here, and which are not the lookalike wardrobes of the other girls. She invests in clothes which are not strikingly different but which are intrinsically finer. The appearance you make on your rise to success must be in keeping with both where you are and where you want to go. This imposes some hardships on you, perhaps, in comparison to the carefree little file clerk who nobody sees. She can be stockingless, girdleless, gloveless, hatless and shiftless with far less danger than you can. You have something to live up to: your future success in the exciting job you want most. When you reach the top run it’s a different story. The eccentricities of

the top run it’s a different story. The eccentricities of Your appearance on the rise to

Your appearance on the rise to the top must be in keeping with where you want to go

rise to the top must be in keeping with where you want to go the genius

the genius who is top man (or woman) on the totem pole of tycoonery are not only condoned but admired. What you wear when you sit in the president’s chair is entirely up to you. At that point you can give this to your assistant and make notes on what you’ll wear as chairman of the board. There is one rule that must never be overlooked. It is simply ‘Get Organised.’ First, organise your purchases. Don’t be carried away by that cute little orange dress when you have no suitable shoes, bag, gloves or hat to go with it, unless you can afford a complete set of accessories for every outfit. Work out your colour schemes carefully before you buy so that accessories can be interchanged and every costume you wear presents a complete picture from head to toe. Second, organise yourself for each day’s activities. It only takes a few minutes every night, but often

makes the difference between giving an impression of thrown-together

carelessness or a look of perfection. A mad scramble in the morning, wildly pulling things out and dressing like a house on fire will get you nothing but high blood pressure. And speaking of a house on fire, who ever heard of

a fireman not laying out his clothes

before he goes to bed? He just jumps into them and slides down the pole. You might not be able to match him in

speed, but you can arrive at the office every morning calm, cool, collected and on time. A good way, by the way, to keep from being fired. How do you do it? First, review what your next day’s activities are going to be. Business before pleasure of course, but consider also your lunch date, cocktail date and dinner date,

if any. Pick the basic dress or suit or

costume that will work for all three. Lay out the shoes, handbag, hosiery, jewellery, gloves – everything you will need for the office. If there is any doubt about how the costume fits you or the length of the skirt, try it on to make sure. It’s better to switch the night before than to start all over in the morning. If you have after-hours activities on that day, select something right for the

office that can be dressed-up for your date. It’s amazing what a softer blouse and pretty jewellery can do for a simple

suit. Carry with you dressier gloves and

a

glamorous cocktail hat, and you have

it

made. The extras will all fit neatly

into your hatbox or tote bag, so you can switch on the glamour after five.

or tote bag, so you can switch on the glamour after five. KEEPING A MAN The

KEEPING A MAN

so you can switch on the glamour after five. KEEPING A MAN The contents of this

The contents of this may be a shock to the woman who feels that the less she wears in pursuit of a man the better. To her we can only say that while the boys ogle and applaud the charms of Venus Unadorned in art galleries, night clubs and between

the covers of some magazines, it’s the covered girls rather than the Cover Girls they invariably marry. Man is

a possessive animal by nature and

cares little about sharing his wealth

of wifely treasure with the wolf-pack. And corny as it may seem in our free-wheeling society where topless bathing suits, bottom-revealing pants and above-the-knee skirts abound, most men shudder at the thought of their wives as striptease artists – beyond the master’s bedroom, that is. When you place yourself on the launching pad, pointed towards the great adventure of matrimony, please be realistic and pick a goal you can reach. Falling in love with

a man so famous, so rich or so

handsome that you’re unlikely ever to meet him is propelling yourself toward heartbreak. Even if you did manage to get into orbit with such

a paragon, consider the difficulties

of keeping up with him as you fight off the competition. Look all around you for a man to marry rather than

star-gazing. Count the available men you see every day – at the office, at church, at the railroad station, at the skating rink, the country club or the beach. One of them may be just for you. Ask yourself if you measure up to the challenge of attracting him with what you wear every day. In spite of the oft-repeated phrase mouthed by everyone’s Aunt Tillie that ‘all men are alike,’ we urge you to start on your husband quest by discarding this notion instantly. The only way all eligible men are alike (regardless of size, shape, personality, financial standing) is in their desire to stay in the lead and to avoid the altar while being chased by some woman, or more likely, several. Men, dear reader, are very much in demand. Statistics prove (1) women outlive them by at least

three years, leaving a growing residue of eager widows to add to the already sizeable population of mate-hungry women, and (2) there are 3,617,545 more unattached women then men in the United States (single, separated, divorced and widowed). In Australia the picture is in reverse, in case you want to go there.

the picture is in reverse, in case you want to go there. THAT FIRST MEETING Before

THAT FIRST MEETING

Before advising you on how to dress to get a husband we must, of course, assume that you already know an eligible man – a man you would like to marry. We have shed tears over the laments of girls who spent an entire year’s savings at plush resorts where the huntresses outnumbered

tears over the laments of girls who spent an entire year’s savings at plush resorts where

95

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

the quarry ten to one. Our advice to women is very practical. If you just can’t meet any men in your own town or city, pack up your vacation wardrobe and go to a convention hotel. Pick the convention where you’d be likely to meet the kind of man you think you’d like. Bankers, lawyers, doctors, dentists, plumbers, printers, publishers and advertising men all attend conventions by the hundreds. If this doesn’t appeal to you, you might try spending your vacation travelling back and forth on a train or plane that plies between two points well traversed by businessmen. For example, you could take any non-stop flight between New York, Chicago, Los Angeles or San Francisco. But you may say, ‘why would any man want to meet me? I’m far from beautiful, and just not the type they turn around to look at.’ Our answer is simply that very few women are sensationally beautiful. If you can make yourself interesting to look at and interesting to be with your attraction to the opposite sex will be more than satisfactory. Frequently at parties and premieres attended by Hollywood stars, visitors are shocked when they see the wives of our handsomest film stars. These men, who work constantly, with women who are the epitome of glamour, very often marry girls who are quite ordinary to look at. The unknowing are inclined to comment, ‘How on Earth did she ever get him?’ I can tell you, because I know. She interested him more than other women. It’s obvious that you can’t really show how interested you are in a man unless you know something about him. This is the second step, once you’ve met him.

about him. This is the second step, once you’ve met him. GETTING TO KNOW HIM You’ve

GETTING TO KNOW HIM

You’ve spotted your game now, and you want to bring him back alive – with an engagement ring in his paw. What’s the bait that will make him follow you to the ends of the earth or propel you down the aisle to the strains of Lohengrin? Getting to know him, getting to know all about him, as one of the lovely songs from the King And I so aptly put it. Draw him out; discover his interests, idiosyncrasies, likes and dislikes. If possible try to find out who his favourite actresses are in motion pictures, television and the theatre. This might be the clue to the type he likes. Ask him why he likes these stars. Is it the way they look, the way they talk, the parts they play? You’ll learn a lot about that man simply by listening. Don’t forget however, that a much too aggressive attitude and too many pointed questions might scare him away. Be interested, not inquisitive. Now let's consider the first date – inevitable outcome of the successful meeting. Here’s where what you wear comes into play even more importantly. If he tells you exactly where he is taking you, the solution to the question of what to wear is quite simple. But suppose he invites you to have dinner with him on Saturday night. You can’t ask him ‘where?’ or ‘how much money do you plan to spend?’ This is the time where good judgement takes over. If you consider all the possibilities for dressing for that first date, you can be perfectly dressed for almost any eventuality. This is called playing it safe.

dressing for that first date, you can be perfectly dressed for almost any eventuality. This is
dressing for that first date, you can be perfectly dressed for almost any eventuality. This is
dressing for that first date, you can be perfectly dressed for almost any eventuality. This is
dressing for that first date, you can be perfectly dressed for almost any eventuality. This is
dressing for that first date, you can be perfectly dressed for almost any eventuality. This is
dressing for that first date, you can be perfectly dressed for almost any eventuality. This is
But let’s face it, a soft dark dress and a soft pastel suit don’t make

But let’s face it, a soft dark dress and a soft pastel suit don’t make a wardrobe. These are the staples that belong in every woman’s closet. The building of the right wardrobe for every occasion depends on the man. Men fall into five categories:

occasion depends on the man. Men fall into five categories: THE SPORTSMAN unassuming manner, his soft-spoken

THE SPORTSMAN

unassuming manner, his soft-spoken voice, his solid colour neckties, definite opinions and the relaxing fact that he doesn’t proposition you on your first date. With this man, anything overt or obvious in your actions, conversations or wearing apparel will send him scurrying back to the serenity of his lonely pad and all the trappings of bachelorhood.

If he’s a rugged sportsman, women are taboo on fishing trips, anathema on the golf course and excess baggage on a bear hunt. He’s one of the strong men who likes his women weak. He wants to pursue his game with the boys and come home to a little woman who is waiting, wide-eyed, to hear how he caught the swordfish, made that hole-in-one or stalked that grizzly. Such men want their women feminine and the only pants they want to see you in are sexy hostess pajamas.

only pants they want to see you in are sexy hostess pajamas. THE INTELLECTUAL What would

THE INTELLECTUAL

What would be the shy man’s chloroform is this man’s meat. He’s a long hair and doesn’t mind if you wear yours down your back. Conservatism in any form is just plain corn to him, so don’t be square enough to wear conventional-looking costumes for his sake. He goes for Pop Art, Op Art, modern ballets – and girls who make the scene with him can look as kookie as they wish.

who make the scene with him can look as kookie as they wish. MAN ABOUT TOWN

MAN ABOUT TOWN

He is aware of everything that’s in, from the latest discotheque dances to the hit musical shows. He has read this month’s best seller and knows the head waiter in the best restaurants. Invariably he is articulate and entertaining as a conversationalist. This makes it essential for you to be a good listener. But don’t think you can get away with dumb, adoring silence forever. He expects an intelligent comment once in a while.

forever. He expects an intelligent comment once in a while. THE SHY TYPE THE EXECUTIVE He’s

THE SHY TYPE

THE EXECUTIVE

He’s the man who has it made. If you are lucky enough to have latched onto one of this rare species, work fast. You can be sure plenty of other women have a bead on him too. He is a very definite man. He knows what he likes and makes fast decisions. He is neat and well organised and can’t abide sloppy, lazy, disorderly females. Don’t giggle, sit up straight, and be on time! Well, you’ve met your man and landed him. Next step the honeymoon.

met your man and landed him. Next step the honeymoon. You will recognise him by his

You will recognise him by his quiet,

How To Dress For Success is out now on V&A Publishing. www.vam.ac.uk

9898

The former Soviet Embassy, Havana, Cuba, 2009 99
The former Soviet Embassy, Havana, Cuba, 2009 99
The former Soviet Embassy, Havana, Cuba, 2009 99
The former Soviet Embassy, Havana, Cuba, 2009 99
The former Soviet Embassy, Havana, Cuba, 2009 99

The former Soviet Embassy, Havana, Cuba, 2009

COSMIC CONSTRUCTIONS

The Institute of Robotics and Technical Cybernet- ics (Architects: S Savin, B Artiushin), Saint Peters-

The Institute of Robotics and Technical Cybernet- ics (Architects: S Savin, B Artiushin), Saint Peters- burg, Russia, 1987.

Institute of Research, Kiev, Ukraine, 2007

COSMIC CONSTRUCTIONS

COSMIC CONSTRUCTIONS 102
Monument to the Battle of Bash-Aparan. (Architects: R Israelyan) Armenia, 1979. The Ministry of Highways,

Monument to the Battle of Bash-Aparan. (Architects: R Israelyan) Armenia, 1979.

The Ministry of Highways, Tbilisi, Georgia, 2003.

COSMIC CONSTRUCTIONS

The Architecture Faculty at the Polytechnic Institute of Minsk and its succession of overhanging lecture theatres. (Architects: V Anikin, I Yesman) Belarus, 1983.

105

105

COSMIC CONSTRUCTIONS

COSMIC CONSTRUCTIONS 106
Crematorium (Architect: A Miletski) Kiev, Ukraine, 1985. The Druzhba sanatorium (Architect: I Vasilevsky, Y Stefanchuk)

Crematorium (Architect: A Miletski) Kiev, Ukraine, 1985.

The Druzhba sanatorium (Architect:

I Vasilevsky, Y Stefanchuk) Yalta, Ukraine, 1985.

Cosmic Communist Constructions Photographed by Frederic Chaubin, $58, is published by TASCHEN and is available at www.taschen.com

Communist Constructions Photographed by Frederic Chaubin, $58, is published by TASCHEN and is available at www.taschen.com

BRIEFING

P. 114

DOLCE LA VITA EMIRATES’ANNOUNCES A380 SERVICE TO ROME P110
DOLCE
LA VITA
EMIRATES’ANNOUNCES
A380 SERVICE TO ROME
P110

EMIRATES NEWS

EMIRATES NEWS
EMIRATES HAS ANNOUNCED THAT Rome and Kuala Lumpur will be the next destinations for its
EMIRATES HAS ANNOUNCED THAT
Rome and Kuala Lumpur will
be the next destinations for its
flagship A380.
As of December 1, the double-
decker superjumbo will make
daily flights to the Italian city,
and will be the first A380 service
to fly to Malaysia’s capital city.
These new destinations
follow on from the A380s
continued expansion, which
sees flights to Johannesburg
as of October 1 this year and
Munich from January 1 2012.
ROME & KL
NEXT UP
FOR A380
NEW FIRST CLASS LOUNGE
NEW
FIRST
CLASS
LOUNGE

EMIRATES HAS OPENED ITS SECOND DEDICATED First Class Lounge at Dubai International Airport.The lounge has been kitted out with plush leather armchairs, two dining areas, shower facilities, wireless LAN connectivity and a quiet zone. Located on Concourse 1, it will facilitate easy and seamless travel for First Class passengers departing from any of the 14 gates located on the concourse.

easy and seamless travel for First Class passengers departing from any of the 14 gates located

About Malaysia

About Malaysia Geographically, Malaysia is as diverse as its culture. From cool hideaways in the highlands

Geographically, Malaysia is as diverse as its culture. From cool hideaways in the highlands to warm, sandy beaches and rich humid mangroves, the capital city of Kuala Lumpur also offers a lively nightlife scene and a fascinating art and performance culture, which blends contem- porary and traditional styles from many backgrounds. One of Malaysia's key attractions is its extreme contrasts.Towering skyscrapers look down upon traditional wooden houses built on stilts, and five-star hotels sit several meters away from ancient reefs.

About Prince Court Medical Centre

Prince Court Medical Centre is a 300 bed private medical facility located in the heart of Kuala Lumpur. Born of a Malaysian vision to be the forerunner in the provision of clinical services and patient care delivery, we are internationally accredited by Joint Commission Interna- tional (JCI). We aim to be the leading healthcare provider in Asia. We provide a comprehensive range of family-centred healthcare services.

International Business Lounge

Prince Court Medical Centre is fast becoming a hospital of choice for our international patients. Over the years, we have seen a steady increase in patients coming from all over the world. Our International Business Center is specifically designed to ensure all the needs of our international patients are met. A dedicated team has been appointed to respond to requests, co-ordinate with agents, arrange the admission and discharge of patients and follow up post-discharge to ensure our services are of the highest possible standards. Services for interpreters and visa extension can also be arranged on the patient’s behalf.

We are here for you

It’s difficult to decide when it comes to your health as there can be no compromise. Latest technology and modern procedure will save your life but it can’t bring a human touch to your heart. You may see us as just another hospital that provides services for you and loved ones. You may also see us as just another hospital that only invests latest technology.

This is where Prince Court Medical Centre is different from the rest. We invest in the latest technology so you can be assured of the best result. We incorporate our Asian hospitality to ensure you and loved ones feel at home in a foreign land.

24 Hours Toll FREE :1-800-88-PCMC email: ibl@princecourt.com website: www.princecourt.com

Prince Court Medical Centre Direct line: +(60)3 2160 0124

Prince Court Medical Centre Direct line: +(60)3 2160 0124 39 Jalan Kia Peng 50450 Kuala Lumpur,
Prince Court Medical Centre Direct line: +(60)3 2160 0124 39 Jalan Kia Peng 50450 Kuala Lumpur,

39 Jalan Kia Peng 50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Fax: +(60)3 2160 0010

Tel: +(60)3 2160 0000

.

Services -

ONCOLOGY

.

HEART & LUNG

.

WOMEN & CHILDREN

.

PLASTIC RECONSTRUCTIVE, DERMATOLOGY & BURNS CENTRE

.

UROLOGY, NEPHROLOGY, MEN’S HEALTH AND WELLNESS

. EXECUTIVE HEALTH SCREENING

. RADIOLOGY & NUCLEAR MEDICINE

.

MEDICAL SPECIALTIES

.

SURGICAL SPECIALTIES

.

DIGESTIVE DISEASE UNIT

.

PHYSICAL & REHABILITATION MEDICINE

.

LIFESTYLE MODIFICATION CENTRE

Managed by VAMED and Collaboration with Medical University of Vienna International

with Medical University of Vienna International Joint Commission International Accreditation 2008 Malaysian
with Medical University of Vienna International Joint Commission International Accreditation 2008 Malaysian

Joint Commission

International Accreditation

2008

Malaysian Society For Quality in healthcare 2010

Asian Society for Quality in Healthcare

Winner Best Brands Wellness Hospital 2009 - 2010

Frost & Sullivan Healthcare Services Provider Member of Association of Private Hospitals of Malaysia of
Frost & Sullivan
Healthcare Services Provider
Member of Association of
Private Hospitals of Malaysia
of the Year 2010
. EMERGENCY ROOM . PATHOLOGY Member of Medical Tourism Association Halal certification for Food &
.
EMERGENCY ROOM
.
PATHOLOGY
Member of Medical
Tourism Association
Halal certification for
Food & Beverage Category

EMIRATES NEWS

EMIRATES NEWS FEATURE

FEATURE

The Best Table in the Sky

The Best Table in the Sky A SIX-COURSE MEAL WITH A RANGE of mezze, canapés and

A SIX-COURSE MEAL WITH A RANGE of mezze, canapés and wines may sound like a feast for a special occasion, but as of last month it is simply the norm when flying Emirates’ premium classes. On August 1, Emirates relaunched its new premium dining service for First Class and Business Class. Refurbished and equipped with bespoke Royal Doulton crockery made from bone china and Robert Welsh cutlery designed exclusively for Emirates, this is a serious statement of luxury. “We wanted to ensure we have flair and restaurant culture in the flying experience,” explains Robin Padgett, Vice-President of Aircraft Catering for Emirates. “The idea was to completely redefine what Business Class dining on Emirates meant for our customers, and for that we went back to the basics,” says Padgett. “We had to establish what type of restaurant service we wanted. If First Class was a ‘Dine on Demand’ fine-dining service, then we wanted Business Class to be more of a bistro-style service.” A quick look over the Dubai-to-

Sydney menu sees meals such as grilled tenderloin steak and seafood biryani on offer, as well as the new additions of a soup service and a ‘light bites’ menu that offers comfort foods (a beef steak pie or Thai chicken skewers) should you want a little something if you are feeling peckish. When establishing the new service, the rule of thumb was ‘would you get this in a restaurant?’ Padgett says that this was applied to every decision taken. “In a restaurant, they don’t have trolleys — so we stopped using them, and now the service is done with restaurant style trays. In fine dining restaurants they have elegant glasses — so we have replaced

order to ensure it retained the highest quality bespoke service. “We wanted to refine the service and make sure that whilst you are tucking into your chicken consommé or caviar, you know you are in First Class — a first rate fine dining experience with all the bells and whistles,” says Padgett. Emirates varies its menu depending on its routes. “We have five highly experienced chefs who take a lot of time devising menus,” says Padgett. “We design as far as we can down to specific cities. In some countries, such as the UK, there aren’t huge regional differences, but it is a lot more accented in India for example. The difference between Hyderabad and Delhi is massive, so we can design destination specific menus.”

With bespoke cutlery and fine bone china, this is a serious statement of luxury

and fine bone china, this is a serious statement of luxury traditional airline style with stylish

traditional airline style with stylish restaurant glassware.” In First Class, the emphasis was less on revolutionising the dining service, and more on tweaking it in

It is by combining the use of this regional knowledge with a restaurant mind-set that is making premium dining on Emirates one of the most sought-after tables in the sky.

50%
50%

EMIRATES NEWS

EMIRATES NEWS GREEN

GREEN

AVIATION

THE

TO

TARGET

INDUSTRY’S

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EMISSIONS

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SOURCE: WWW.ENVIRO.AERO

LEADING THE WAY

CONCERNS OVER CARBON EMISSIONS have long been issues in the aviation industry. Investing in ways to reduce environmental impact has become paramount for airlines such as Emirates. Emirates’ 2010-11 Environmental Report shows its fuel and CO2 efficiency level is 26 per cent better than the global airline average. With more than 90 per cent of its environmental impact coming from its fleet, this is a highly significant figure. The report also coincided with two test flights of a new flexible routing initiative called the INSPIRE programme. Results

from the test flights (from Dubai to Brisbane, and from Perth to Dubai) showed that over 6,250 litres of fuels could be saved, as well as 16,000kg of CO2 emissions, if aircraft are allowed to follow flexible flight paths over the Indian Ocean. Emirates’ long-haul flights to Australia are a frequent route with 63 weekly flights. Flexible routing will save 2.47 million litres of fuel and 6,850 tonnes of CO2 in 2011. “Emirates takes its commitment to the environment very seriously and strives to be an industry innovator and leader in fleet eco-efficiency” said Andrew Parker, Senior Vice-President, Public, Industry, International and Environmental Affairs.

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The United Nations has recently announced that the world’s population will reach 7 billion by October. According to the UN Population Division, there are already 1 billion more people alive than in October 1999.

The US jet- manufacturer, Boeing, has completed the first trans-atlantic flight of a large commercial aircraft powered solely by sustainable aviation jet-fuel blend. The

747-8 freighter flew from Everett, Washington to Paris’ Le Bourget Airport, using a 15% blend of camelina-based biofuel combined with traditional kerosene jet fuel in all four engines.

AIRLINES LOOK TO ALTERNATIVE FUEL

TEN AIRLINES HAVE PLEDGED TO INVEST in the development of biomass- derived jet-fuel. The ten carriers have committed to buying fuel made exclusively from post-recycled urban and agricultural waste, as of when the biofuel plant is built in 2013. The plant, that is to be built by biofuel producers Solena Fuels, is expected to produce 16 million gallons of jet fuel, recycling 550,000 tonnes of waste from landfills. By 2015 the fuel output, which is likely to be a 50/50 blend of biofuel and petroleum, is expected to support operations at three airports. This latest announcement shows the growing trend of airline companies researching alternative means of jet fuel. Rising fuel prices have caused carriers to start looking into alternative means of reducing their costs.

looking into alternative means of reducing their costs. KGS OF ONBOARD WASTE RECYCLED BY EMIRATES IN

KGS OF ONBOARD WASTE RECYCLED BY

EMIRATES IN 2010-2011

3.3 mil

SOURCE: EMIRATES

TREES PLANTED AT WOLGAN VALLEY

R ESORT AND SPA

175,000

SOURCE: EMIRATES

FABER-CASTELL FABER-CASTELL
FABER-CASTELL
FABER-CASTELL

“Today, Turkey is one of our best performing markets not only in terms of sales and market penetration, but in terms of profitability as well. Turkey is an exciting place for business with a great potential and we are optimistic about the future of the country.”

and we are optimistic about the future of the country.” Count Anton-Wolfgang von FABER-CASTELL, Chairman &

Count Anton-Wolfgang von FABER-CASTELL, Chairman & CEO

Count Anton-Wolfgang von FABER-CASTELL, Chairman & CEO • A population of 74 million, half of which

• A population of 74 million, half of which is under the age of 29

• Approximately 500,000 students graduate annually from more than 150 universities

• Around 26 million young, well-educated and motivated labor force

• Highly competitive investment conditions

• A country with unique R&D incentives and tax deductions

• Access to Europe, Caucasus, Central Asia, the Middle

East and North Africa

• 17 th largest economy in the world (IMF-WEO, 2010)

• 15 th most attractive FDI destination for 2008-2010

(UNCTAD World Investment Prospects Survey)

• Fastest growing economy in the world with an impressive

GDP growth rate of 11% in the first quarter of 2011

Survey) • Fastest growing economy in the world with an impressive GDP growth rate of 11%

EMIRATES NEWS

EMIRATES NEWS
BEFORE YOU R JOU RNEY

BEFORE YOU R JOU RNEY

CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR BEFOREBEFORE YOU R JOU RNEY   T R AV ELLING IF YOU HAV E ANY MEDICAL

 

T R AV ELLING IF YOU HAV E ANY

MEDICAL CONCERNS ABOUT

MAKING A LONG JOURNE Y, OR IF YOU

SUFFER FROM A RESPIRATORY OR

IN THE AIR

CARDIOVASCULAR CONDITION.

PLAN FOR THE DESTINATION � WILLA RESPIRATORY OR IN THE AIR CARDIOVASCULAR CONDITION. TO HELP YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR destination feeling

TO HELP YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to

rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you to enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

YOU N EE D ANY VACCINATIONS OR

 

SPECIAL MEDICATIONS?

GET A GOOD NIGHT’S REST BEFOREYOU N EE D ANY VACCINATIONS OR   SPECIAL MEDICATIONS?   THE FLIGHT. EAT LIGHTLY AND

 

THE FLIGHT.

EAT LIGHTLY AND SENSIBLY.GET A GOOD NIGHT’S REST BEFORE   THE FLIGHT.   AT THE AIRPORT SMART TRAVELLER  

 

AT THE AIRPORT

SMART TRAVELLER

 

ALLOW YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIMESMART TRAVELLER  

    FOR CHECK�IN.
 
    FOR CHECK�IN.
 

FOR CHECK�IN.

AVOID CARRYING HEAVY BAGSALLOW YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIME     FOR CHECK�IN. DRINK TRAVEL   THROUGH THE AIRPORT AND

DRINK

TRAVEL

 

THROUGH THE AIRPORT AND ONTO

PLENTY

LIGHTLY

THE FLIGHT AS THIS CAN PLACE THE

OF WATER

BODY UNDER CONSIDERABLE STRESS.

ONCE THROUGH TO DEPARTURES TRYCAN PLACE THE OF WATER BODY UNDER CONSIDERABLE STRESS.   AND RELAX AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

 

AND RELAX AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

REHYDRATE WITH WATER OR JUICES FREQUENTLY. DRINK TEA AND COFFEE IN MODERATION.

CARRY ONLY THE ESSENTIAL ITEMS THAT YOU WILL NEED DURING YOUR FLIGHT.

DURING THE FLIGHT

    SUCKING AND SWALLOWING WILL
 
    SUCKING AND SWALLOWING WILL
 

SUCKING AND SWALLOWING WILL   

 

HELP EQUALISE YOUR EAR PRESSURE

MAKE

DURING ASCENT AND DESCENT.

YOURSELF

KEEP

BABIES AND YOUNG PASSENGERSYOURSELF KEEP

COMFORTABLE

MOVING

 

MAY SUFFER MORE ACUTELY

WITH POPPING EARS, THEREFORE

CONSIDER PROVIDING A DUMMY.

LOOSEN CLOTHING, REMOVE JACKET AND AVOID ANYTHING PRESSING AGAINST YOUR BODY.

EXERCISE YOUR LOWER LEGS AND CALF MUSCLES. THIS ENCOURAGES BLOOD FLOW.

GET AS COMFORTABLE ASAND AVOID ANYTHING PRESSING AGAINST YOUR BODY. EXERCISE YOUR LOWER LEGS AND CALF MUSCLES. THIS ENCOURAGES

 

POSSIBLE WHEN RESTING AND

    TURN FREQUENTLY.
 
    TURN FREQUENTLY.
 

TURN FREQUENTLY.

AVOID SLEEPING FOR LONG PERIODSPOSSIBLE WHEN RESTING AND     TURN FREQUENTLY. USE SKIN   IN THE SAME POSITION. WEAR

USE SKIN

 

IN THE SAME POSITION.

WEAR

MOISTURISER

 

GLASSES

W HEN YOU ARR IV E

TRY SOME LIGHT EXERCISE OR READ

TRY SOME LIGHT EXERCISE OR READ

IF YOU CAN’T SLEEP AFTER ARRIVAL.

CABIN AIR IS DRIER THAN NORMAL THEREFORE SWAP YOUR CONTACT LENSES FOR GLASSES.

APPLY A GOOD QUALITY MOISTURISER TO ENSURE YOUR SKIN DOESN’T DRY OUT.

 
CABIN CREW WILL BE HAPPY TO HELP YOU NEED IF ASSISTANCE COMPLETING THE FORMS
CABIN
CREW WILL BE
HAPPY
TO HELP
YOU NEED
IF
ASSISTANCE
COMPLETING
THE FORMS

EMIRATES NEWS

EMIRATES NEWS
TO US CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION FORMS WHETHER YOU’RE TRAVELLING TO, OR THROUGH, THE UNITED States

TO US CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION FORMS

WHETHER YOU’RE TRAVELLING TO, OR THROUGH, THE UNITED States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey

is as hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will offer you two forms when you are nearing your destination. We provide guidelines below, so you can correctly complete the forms.

CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM

IMMIGRATION FORM

the forms. CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM IMMIGRATION FORM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival / Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be completed for each person, including children travelling on their parents’ passport. The form includes a Departure Record which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US. If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (right), you are not required to complete an immigration form.

Visa (Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (right), you are not required to
AD 80 mm wide x 224 mm high ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA) IF
AD 80 mm wide x 224 mm high
AD
80 mm wide x
224 mm high

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA)

IF YOU ARE AN INTERNATIONAL

TRAVELLER WISHING TO ENTER

THE UNITED STATES UNDER THE

VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME,

YOU MUST APPLY FOR

ELECTRONIC AUTHORISATION

�ESTA� UP TO �� HOURS PRIOR

TO YOUR DEPARTURE.

ESTA FACTS:

CHILDREN ANDUP TO �� HOURS PRIOR TO YOUR DEPARTURE. ESTA FACTS: INFANTS REQUIRE AN INDIVIDUAL ESTA. THE

INFANTS REQUIRE AN

INDIVIDUAL ESTA.

THE ONLINE ESTA SYSTEMESTA FACTS: CHILDREN AND INFANTS REQUIRE AN INDIVIDUAL ESTA. WILL INFORM YOU WHETHER YOUR APPLICATION HAS

WILL INFORM YOU WHETHER