Open Skies - September 2011

OS07_SEPT_COVER.
indd 1 8/21/11 2:25:51 PM

the day-date
EVERY ROLEX IS MADE FOR GREATNESS. THE DAY-DATE, INTRODUCED
IN 1956, WAS THE FIRST WATCH TO DISPLAY THE DATE, AS WELL AS THE
DAY I N I TS ENTI RETY. A POWERFUL EXPRESSI ON OF ELEGANCE AND
STYLE, ITS CLASSIC DESIGN QUICKLY BECAME A FAVOURITE AMONG
WORLD LEADERS. THE DAY-DATE I S PRESENTED HERE I N PLATI NUM.
the day-date
EVERY ROLEX IS MADE FOR GREATNESS. THE DAY-DATE, INTRODUCED
IN 1956, WAS THE FIRST WATCH TO DISPLAY THE DATE, AS WELL AS THE
DAY I N I TS ENTI RETY. A POWERFUL EXPRESSI ON OF ELEGANCE AND
STYLE, ITS CLASSIC DESIGN QUICKLY BECAME A FAVOURITE AMONG
WORLD LEADERS. THE DAY-DATE I S PRESENTED HERE I N PLATI NUM.
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audi.pdf 8/22/11 2:27:36 PM
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audi.pdf 8/22/11 2:27:36 PM
*
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t

m
o
d
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Australia. . . . . . . . . +61 2 8337 2791
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Turkey. . . . . . . . . . +90 212 465 3156
UAE Dubai . . . . . . . +971 4 224 5404
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HOTEL DEBUTS: ABU DHABI BANGKOK BAL HARBOUR DOHA FLORENCE MAURITIUS SANYA SHENZHEN TIANJIN
BEYOND
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Your idea of shopping
is calling the tailor
your father introduced you
to twenty years ago.
Or the designer whos on
the forefront of fashion,
one of the many reasons why.
stregis.com
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smit.pdf 8/23/11 10:41:51 AM
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Monsoon ad Openskies 260 x 195.ai 1 8/17/11 3:49 PM
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majestic.pdf 8/24/11 11:07:33 AM
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majestic.pdf 8/24/11 11:07:33 AM
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al motahajiba.pdf 8/23/11 2:33:18 PM
159088-TDC Shopping-D4_10-8.ai 63.25 lpi 71.57 10/8/11 3:32:25 PM 159088-TDC Shopping-D4_10-8.ai 63.25 lpi 18.43 10/8/11 3:32:25 PM 159088-TDC Shopping-D4_10-8.ai 66.67 lpi 0.00 10/8/11 3:32:25 PM 159088-TDC Shopping-D4_10-8.ai 70.71 lpi 45.00 10/8/11 3:32:25 PM
Process CyanProcess MagentaProcess YellowProcess Black
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kpj (edited).pdf 6/21/11 11:06:51 AM
Open Skies Passport Arabic lady 260x195-E.indd 1 6/19/11 7:04 PM
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If Dubai is to be a world-class city,
it must have world-class education.
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the vision of bringing world-class education to Dubai.
Today, we offer four premium international schools
that are delivering on that promise.
Dubai International Academy Our lrsl and lagship
schoolsIB Primary Years Programme (PYP), IB Middle Years
Programme (MYP) and IB Diploma Programme (DP)
lirsl school in lhe UAL aulhorised by lhe l8 lo oller
all three programmes
Rafes International School, South Campus Dedicaled
junior school Monlessori Programme and Cambridge
lnlernalional Primary Programme (ClPP)
Rafes International School, West Campus Unique
combinalion ol Cambridge and l8 curriculums l8 Primary
Years Programme (PYP)*, Cambridge Lower Secondary
Programme (CLSP), lnlernalional Ceneral Cerlilcale ol
Secondary Lducalion (lCCSL) and l8 Diploma Programme (DP)
*IB PYP candidate school. Only schools authorised by the International
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guarantee that authorisation will be granted.
Collegiate American School** Newesl addilion lo our
portfolio of premium international schools Ollers lhe besl
ol American educalion wilh a curriculum based on lhe
American Common Core Slandards
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DC005 Welcome-Open Skies 260x195-E.indd 1 8/17/11 10:33 AM
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bin hendi.pdf 8/22/11 2:59:44 PM
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visa.pdf 8/23/11 11:44:08 AM
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25
EDITORS LETTER
While some of the advice might seem (very) dated, Head
is still revered around the world. We also take a look at
Hong Kongs disappearing tailors, who are fnding it impossible to carry
on a generations-old tradition. One legacy that will live on is that of the
architectural creations scattered around the far edges of the former Soviet
Union. Shocking but beautiful, these buildings are snapshots of another
time. Enjoy the issue.
I
t may seem ironic to anyone who knows me that
I am presiding over an issue devoted to style, but,
of course, I can argue that style is in the eye of
the beholder. Note my use of the singular. Style
is a broad canvas, and not to be mixed up with
fashion, which, as Oscar Wilde pointed out, is a form of
ugliness so intolerable that it has to be altered every six
months. This is something the writer of our cover story
would agree with. A fashion industry insider, she exposes
the murky world of models, designers and a pliant fashion
press. The story is illustrated beautifully by
Lindsey Spinks, a young British artist who
re-imagined a drawing of hers we found about
hapnophobia (the fear of being touched). Such is
the haphazard way our covers take shape. There was
nothing haphazard about Edith Head, whose book, How To Dress For
Success, was something of a must-have style guide for women in the 1960s.
CONOR@OPENSKIESMAGAZINE.COM
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Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Obaid Humaid Al Tayer GROUP EDITOR & MANAGING PARTNER Ian Fairservice GROUP SENIOR
EDITOR Gira )olrsor gira[ro:iVa:eae SENIOR EDITOR ârl LVars rarle[ro:iVa:eae EDITOR Conor Purcell
coror[ro:iVa:eae ART DI RECTOR Tia Seier: :ia[ro:iVa:eae CHIEF SUB EDITOR !air Sri:l iairs[ro:iVa:e
ae STAFF WRITER â::lev Iries: CONTRIBUTING WRITER Gare:l Kees gare:l[ro:iVa:eae SENIOR PRODUCTION
MANAGER S Sunil Kumar PRODUCTION MANAGER C Sudhakar GENERAL MANAGER, GROUP SALES Ar:lor,
îlre ar:lor,[ro:iVa:eae BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER !icola HDdsor ricola[ro:iVa:eae SENIOR
ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER )a,a Lalalrislrar a,a[ro:iVa:e ae. DEPUTY ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Murali
Narayanan ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER SlrD:i SriVas:aVa EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES: Ldi:or Siohlar
Larde: Arahic Ldi:or Ha:er Orar DeD:, Ldi:or S:elarie L,rre Vehsi:e erira:escor CONTRIBUTORS: Mark
TDrga:e. LDciaro Lalzaro. Iarooq Saliq. Vael Al Sa,egl. ârl Iovell. HG1. Gerra Correll. Ilil Ol. )ere, âc!r:,re.
)acqDelire Klasser. Arr Llacl. Hilar, LrerloDse. Griscla KLsclerdor. Ldi:l Head. Irdric ClaDhir. Axis âs.
COVER ILLUSTRATION h, Lirdse, Sirls MASTHEAD DESIGN h, Dir: vvvqDir:dDhaicor
84,649
COPIES
OS07_025-025_EdsLetter.indd 25 8/22/11 2:22:41 PM
27
CONTENTS
OUR MAN IN PARIS ON WHY THE CITYS LADIES ARE SO FASHIONABLE
(P33) WE SHOWCASE NEW YORKS COOLEST HAIR SALONS VIA
TWITTER PITCH (P37) ONE OF SYDNEYS HIDDEN GEMS GETS THE
ROOM TREATMENT (P39) MILAN HAS STYLE. LOTS OF IT, AS WE
DISCOVER WHEN WE MAP THE ITALIAN CITY (P40) OUR COLUMNIST
EXPLAINS THE EVERCHANGING WORLD OF GULF FASHIONS (P49)
A BELGIAN DESIGNER HAS ONE OF THE MOST EYECATCHING
BOUTIQUES IN ASIA (P56) DELIGHT IN THE DELICIOUS CUPCAKES
AT MAGNOLIA, ONE OF NEW YORKS FINEST BAKERIES (P58) WE PICK
UP SOME GEMS IN THE FINANCIAL CAPITAL OF EUROPE (P60) OUR
FASHION INSIDER LAYS OPEN A WORLD OF TANTRUMS, TEARS, LIES
AND EXPLOITATION WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF HIGH FASHION
(P66) HONG KONGS TRADITIONAL TAILORS ARE A DYING BREED. WE
JOURNEY TO THE ISLAND TO FIND OUT WHY (P76) EDITH HEAD
GIVES SOME QUIRKY AND INVALUABLE ADVICE ON HOW TO GET A
RAISE, AND A HUSBAND (P88) STUNNING IMAGES OF A PARTICULARLY
STYLISH BRAND OF SOVIET ARCHITECTURE (P98)
SEPTEMBER
OS07_027-027_Contents.indd 27 8/21/11 3:11:18 PM
27
CONTENTS
OUR MAN IN PARIS ON WHY THE CITYS LADIES ARE SO FASHIONABLE
(P33) WE SHOWCASE NEW YORKS COOLEST HAIR SALONS VIA
TWITTER PITCH (P37) ONE OF SYDNEYS HIDDEN GEMS GETS THE
ROOM TREATMENT (P39) MILAN HAS STYLE. LOTS OF IT, AS WE
DISCOVER WHEN WE MAP THE ITALIAN CITY (P40) OUR COLUMNIST
EXPLAINS THE EVERCHANGING WORLD OF GULF FASHIONS (P49)
A BELGIAN DESIGNER HAS ONE OF THE MOST EYECATCHING
BOUTIQUES IN ASIA (P56) DELIGHT IN THE DELICIOUS CUPCAKES
AT MAGNOLIA, ONE OF NEW YORKS FINEST BAKERIES (P58) WE PICK
UP SOME GEMS IN THE FINANCIAL CAPITAL OF EUROPE (P60) OUR
FASHION INSIDER LAYS OPEN A WORLD OF TANTRUMS, TEARS, LIES
AND EXPLOITATION WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF HIGH FASHION
(P66) HONG KONGS TRADITIONAL TAILORS ARE A DYING BREED. WE
JOURNEY TO THE ISLAND TO FIND OUT WHY (P76) EDITH HEAD
GIVES SOME QUIRKY AND INVALUABLE ADVICE ON HOW TO GET A
RAISE, AND A HUSBAND (P88) STUNNING IMAGES OF A PARTICULARLY
STYLISH BRAND OF SOVIET ARCHITECTURE (P98)
SEPTEMBER
OS07_027-027_Contents.indd 27 8/21/11 3:11:18 PM
29
CONTRIBUTORS
LINDSEY SPINKS: Lindsey is a freelance illustrator based in London. She is passionate about handmade imagery and her
medium of choice is the mechanical pencil. Her work has been exhibited in the UK and she has illustrated for numerous publications.
JEFFREY MACINTYRE: Jeffrey is a New York-based writer who has written for the New York Times, Slate, The Boston Globe,
Intelligent Life and Wired. He has written on everything from bathroom grafti to evolutionary biology.
HILLARY BRENHOUSE: Hillary is an arts and culture writer currently based in Hong Kong. Her work has appeared in such
publications as TIME magazine, Slate and the International Herald Tribune.
FRDRIC CHAUBIN: Frdric Chaubin is the editor of the French magazine Citizen K, and is a renowned architectural
photographer. He has photographed buildings everywhere from Mexico to Vietnam.
EDITH HEAD: Edith was an American costume designer who won eight Academy Awards more than any other woman,
winning her nal Oscar for her work on The Sting in 1974. Her book, How To Dress For Success, was an instant classic.
OS07_029-029_Contributors.indd 29 8/21/11 3:13:15 PM
31
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WE PROW
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OS07_031-031_FOBCover.indd 31 8/21/11 3:19:47 PM
33
OUR MAN IN
F
or the Parisian, style is about
far more than clothing. My
wife, who was born and raised
in Paris, once informed me that she
could tell as much about a person
from the way they wielded their
cutlery as she could from the way
they dressed.
The British tend to shovel, she
would say, with a signifcant glance
across the dinner table. While
Parisians skewer, I might counter.
Nevertheless, if theres one word
that sums up Parisian style, its
understatement.
When I moved here 10 years
ago, I noticed it straightaway
without initially being able to put
my finger on it. Single at the time, I
was intrigued by the citys females.
They were certainly different to the
women Id known in London, who
exposed flesh in all weathers.
Parisian women were not
necessarily sexier, but they were
more mysterious. Their hair was
darker and scrufer; their voices
huskier. But, fnally, I realised what
it came down to: they wore more
clothes. In a word, they were demure.
I was shocked six months later
when I went to a party in London
and saw how brazenly the English
girls were dressed. They were
attractive but they werent subtle.
Parisian women keep sex on a low
simmer, not only because they have
to run the gamut of comments from
occasionally persistent Parisian
men, but because they dress for one
another. They have a fear of being
perceived as vulgar by their peers.
They never want to look as if
theyre trying too hard. Their hair
must look as if theyve just got out of
bed (preferably with a fringe; fringes
are very Parisian) and their make-up
is minimal, although bold red lips are
acceptable. Its true that they wear
lots of black, daringly teaming it with
navy blue. They know how to make
jeans and trench coats look the very
essence of chic. Very often, they have
a scooter helmet slung over their arm
along with the latest it bag.
Indeed, accessories are an
essential part of their allure.
Women will wear costume jewellery
with an evening dress and diamonds
with their boyfriends striped shirt.
They know that a masculine watch
makes their wrist look even thinner.
And both sexes understand that a
flamboyant scarf whisks an outfit
from noncommittal to nonchalant
in a flash.
Parisians realise that fashion is
the spice of clothing, not the main
ingredient. If camouflage print is
in, theyll go out and buy a pair of
camouflage ballet flats to contrast
their monochromatic ensemble.
Dont forget that Paris is a very
cosmopolitan city. One of the most
influential Parisians right now is
the actress Lela Bekhti, born in a
Paris suburb to Algerian parents
and recently picked as one of the
faces of LOral Paris. Many of the
coolest-looking Parisians combine
subtle references to their Arabic
roots with European style.
Many of these rules also go for
Parisian men, whove perfected the
art of scruffy stylishness. Which is
only natural, as their ultimate hero
is the rumpled Serge Gainsbourg. Its
actually hard to find a clean-shaven
Parisian male these days. But
their stubble is the perfect length,
their sneakers, sunglasses and
watches are stealthily expensive
and the shirt and jeans they havent
bothered to press fit them perfectly.
For the Parisian, the stylish devil
is in the details.
IS THERE A PARISIAN STYLE? YES AND IT ISNT HARD TO ATTAIN
Mark Tungate is the Paris-based author of Branded Beauty: How Marketing Changed the Way We Look
PARIS
OS07_033-033_OurMan.indd 33 8/21/11 4:45:57 PM
33
OUR MAN IN
F
or the Parisian, style is about
far more than clothing. My
wife, who was born and raised
in Paris, once informed me that she
could tell as much about a person
from the way they wielded their
cutlery as she could from the way
they dressed.
The British tend to shovel, she
would say, with a signifcant glance
across the dinner table. While
Parisians skewer, I might counter.
Nevertheless, if theres one word
that sums up Parisian style, its
understatement.
When I moved here 10 years
ago, I noticed it straightaway
without initially being able to put
my finger on it. Single at the time, I
was intrigued by the citys females.
They were certainly different to the
women Id known in London, who
exposed flesh in all weathers.
Parisian women were not
necessarily sexier, but they were
more mysterious. Their hair was
darker and scrufer; their voices
huskier. But, fnally, I realised what
it came down to: they wore more
clothes. In a word, they were demure.
I was shocked six months later
when I went to a party in London
and saw how brazenly the English
girls were dressed. They were
attractive but they werent subtle.
Parisian women keep sex on a low
simmer, not only because they have
to run the gamut of comments from
occasionally persistent Parisian
men, but because they dress for one
another. They have a fear of being
perceived as vulgar by their peers.
They never want to look as if
theyre trying too hard. Their hair
must look as if theyve just got out of
bed (preferably with a fringe; fringes
are very Parisian) and their make-up
is minimal, although bold red lips are
acceptable. Its true that they wear
lots of black, daringly teaming it with
navy blue. They know how to make
jeans and trench coats look the very
essence of chic. Very often, they have
a scooter helmet slung over their arm
along with the latest it bag.
Indeed, accessories are an
essential part of their allure.
Women will wear costume jewellery
with an evening dress and diamonds
with their boyfriends striped shirt.
They know that a masculine watch
makes their wrist look even thinner.
And both sexes understand that a
flamboyant scarf whisks an outfit
from noncommittal to nonchalant
in a flash.
Parisians realise that fashion is
the spice of clothing, not the main
ingredient. If camouflage print is
in, theyll go out and buy a pair of
camouflage ballet flats to contrast
their monochromatic ensemble.
Dont forget that Paris is a very
cosmopolitan city. One of the most
influential Parisians right now is
the actress Lela Bekhti, born in a
Paris suburb to Algerian parents
and recently picked as one of the
faces of LOral Paris. Many of the
coolest-looking Parisians combine
subtle references to their Arabic
roots with European style.
Many of these rules also go for
Parisian men, whove perfected the
art of scruffy stylishness. Which is
only natural, as their ultimate hero
is the rumpled Serge Gainsbourg. Its
actually hard to find a clean-shaven
Parisian male these days. But
their stubble is the perfect length,
their sneakers, sunglasses and
watches are stealthily expensive
and the shirt and jeans they havent
bothered to press fit them perfectly.
For the Parisian, the stylish devil
is in the details.
IS THERE A PARISIAN STYLE? YES AND IT ISNT HARD TO ATTAIN
Mark Tungate is the Paris-based author of Branded Beauty: How Marketing Changed the Way We Look
PARIS
OS07_033-033_OurMan.indd 33 8/21/11 4:45:57 PM
34
INFORMATION ELEGANCE
GRAPH
OS07_034-035_Graph.indd 34 8/21/11 3:23:37 PM
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ajman free zone - os.pdf 8/16/11 9:18:03 AM
37
TWITTER PITCH
Every month we profile a number of venues in a different city,
country or continent. The catch? The companies must be on
Twitter and must tell us in their own words what makes them so
special. This month, we feature New Yorks trendiest hair salons.
If you want to get involved, follow us at:
www.twitter.com/openskiesmag
NEW YORK
HAIR SALONS
Concept Salon prides itself on
offering the newest treatments
to keep your hair healthy and
manageable, regardless of your genes!
www.twitter.com/conceptsalon
Blow NY
Cutler
Salon
Parlor
Concept
Salon
With 3 bustling NYC salons and
150+ celebrity/editorial stylists,
Cutler offers insight into cutting-
edge styles of the fashion world.
www.twitter.com/cutlersalon
Opened in 2005 as the first-ever
blow-dry bar, Blow NY built a cult
following for its signature services
and product line, offering trendy
insider styling tips and advice.
www.twitter.com/blowdrybeauty
Beauty, courtesy and talent is the
Parlor philosophy. We want to inspire
you through innovative techniques
and superior service utilising the
most current trends.
www.twitter.com/parlorbeauty
Vaughn Accord & Damian
Santiagos luxury brand NYC salon
w/ incredible talent, warm & friendly
staff, modern architectural design.
www.twitter.com/mizunyc
Mizu NYC
OS07_037-037_TwitterPitch.indd 37 8/21/11 3:25:01 PM
Natural Diamond
Not Synthetic
C
olor Grade
E
C
larity Grade
VS1
C
ut Grade
Excellent
Laser Inscription
Registry Number
GIA 16354621
C
arat Weight
1.53
THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.
PEACE OF MIND STARTS
WITH PROOF OF QUALITY.
A GIA report is certainty from the source. GIA is the gemological research institute
that created the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System.
It is globally recognized
as the unbiased expert for professional, detailed gem evaluations. Before you buy a diamond,
ask your jeweler for a GIA grading report. To learn more visit www.4cs.gia.edu
Open Skies trim 270mm x 206mm ISSUE: AUGUST MATERIALS: PDF/X-1a Certifed SWOP3 supplied proof
SHIPPED TO: Jaya Balakrishnan Tel: +971 4 282 4060 Fax: +971 4 282 4436
AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 PRODUCTON CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 818 242 2427
ADVERTSER: GA SSUE: AUGUST Open Skies GIA_OpenSkies_FNL.indd 1 7/14/11 8:43 AM
39
BOOKED
EDITH HEAD HOW TO
DRESS FOR SUCCESS
I
t may be surprising that
Edith Head, the epitome of
female success (she won eight
Academy Awards for Costume
Design) should write a book in
such a, well, patronising tone.
But maybe things were different
in 1967, the year her book
was first published. Chapters
include Get A Man (Choose
your wardrobe to please him
and suit his way of life) and
In Business (Who knows, you
might marry the boss!), hardly
advice for a progressive woman.
This new edition features Heads
own illustrations and, among
the dated ramblings, some very
useful advice. She was ahead of
her time in many ways, and very
much an exponent of the classic
look. Head advises women to
stay away from faddish clothes
and to avoid looking like mutton
dressed as lamb. Truisms,
maybe, but sage advice all the
same. Heads experience
of dressing the likes of Grace
Kelly, Kim Novak and Elizabeth
Taylor is reworked into advice for
the average woman. The fact
that this book is still read today,
only underlines her influence (see
page 88). V&A Pubishing, 2009
WATSONS BAY HOTEL
SYDNEY, AUSTRALI A
208
Set away from the city centre in
Watsons Bay, a former fshing village,
this petite hotel sits atop one of
Sydneys most famous pubs. Owned
by generations of the Doyle clan the
family behind Sydneys world-
renowned Doyles restaurant guests
can enjoy food from the adjacent
restaurant or from one of the
take-away seafood counters while
soaking up the salt air on the outdoor
terraces. A coastal walk from here
through national parkland takes you
around South Head with its stunning
views across Sydney Harbour to the
northern suburbs and along the clif
faces of The Gap. The hotel has a ferry
station: boats run via the harbour bays
before stopping at Circular Quay in
the city. A true locals haunt: stylish
rooms in an old-style pub faade with
a million dollar view.
INTERNET SPEED: 1MB, free
PILLOWS: Six
IPOD DOCK: No
PIZZA DELIVERY TIME:
19 minutes
COMPLIMENTARY SNACKS: Tea & coffee
TOILETRY BRAND: Kudos
DAILY NEWSPAPER: Sydney Morning
Herald, The Daily Telegraph
EXTRAS: CD/DVD player, additional loft
bedroom
BUSINESS CENTRE: No
VIEW: 5/5
RATE: From $195
WWW.WATSONSBAYHOTEL.COM.AU
ROOM
OS07_039-039_RoomBooked.indd 39 8/22/11 1:00:43 PM
40
MI LAN
MAPPED
Italys vibrant economic capital, Milan is
synonymous with fashion, design and impeccable
style. The city is home to scores of top design
houses (including Armani, Prada, Versace and
Dolce & Gabbana), four pilgrimage-worthy
fashion weeks and an annual industrial design
fair thats one of the worlds best. And it comes as
no surprise to fnd that the local food, nightlife and
art scenes manage to keep up the cutting-edge
pace. From enduring old favourites to the hottest
new venues, Hg2s Kathryn Tomasetti dishes up
a hip antipasti of spots to bed down, dig in and
dance the night away.
WWW.HG2.COM
HOTELS
1. 3 Rooms 2. Bulgari Hotel 3. The Gray 4. Hotel Principe Di Savoia
RESTAURANTS
. Clandestino Milano 6. Antica Trattoria 7. Il Marchesino 8. Giulio Pane e Ojo
della Pesa
OS07_040-042_Mapped.indd 40 8/21/11 3:30:31 PM
41
MI LAN
BARS / CLUBS
9. Caf Marc Jacobs 10. h club>diana 11. Living 12. Hollywood
GALLERIES
13. Museo del Novecento 14. Galleria Lia Rumma 15. Triennale di Milano 16. Hangar Bicocca
OS07_040-042_Mapped.indd 41 8/21/11 3:30:31 PM
42
MILAN
MAPPED
HOTELS
4 HOTEL PRINCIPE DI
SAVOIA
Milans landmark hotel
takes the titles of grande
dame, n de sicle and
any other ritzy superlative
you can throw at it. It is
completely lavish, but we
love the indoor pool.
2 BULGARI HOTEL
The Bulgari Hotel is
tucked into a private cul-
de-sac in Milans fashion
district. Bedrooms are
decorated in teak and
granite; the hotels spa
is exquisite, with a pool
tiled in pure gold.
1 3 ROOMS
The brainchild of art
guru Carla Sozzani.
The three sleek suites
are packed with iconic
20th century designs.
Premises are shared with
a restaurant, boutique,
bookshop and gallery.
3 THE GRAY
The Gray boasts 21
unique rooms. Opt for
Urban & Fit, with its own
private gym, or go for
Gallery View, decked out
in rich African-inspired
textiles. In an alley near
the Duomo Cathedral.
RESTAURANTS
6 ANTICA TRATTORIA
DELLA PESA
For authentic Milanese
cuisine, this former weigh
station is unsurpassed.
Cosy up with a plate
of creamy risotto alla
Milanese or suck up a
hearty ossobuco.
7 IL MARCHESINO
Classic Italian dishes are
given a contemporary
lift, such as stuffed ravioli
with seared langoustine.
Menus are supplied on
iPads, while the dcor
takes inspiration from the
La Scala next door.
8 GIULIO PANE E OJO
This Roman restaurant
is renowned both for its
home-made pastas and
its candlelit, romantic
ambiance. Be sure to
check out the old price
per hour signs: the
restaurant was a bordello.
5 CLANDESTINO
MILANO
This is a temple to both
fashion and gastronomy.
Chef Moreno Cedroni
uses Italian ingredients
to craft susci, his own
Mediterranean take on
the Japanese staple.
GALLERIES
13 MUSEO DEL NOVECENTO
This museum showcases
a brilliant permanent
collection of 20th century
art. Highlights include
pieces by Matisse and
Picasso, as well as Italian
superstars Modigliani,
Fontana and Morandi.
14 GALLERIA LIA RUMMA
Lia Rumma is an
unconventional gallery,
set over ve glass and
concrete oors. Recent
shows include Vanessa
Beecrofts tableau vivant,
blending performance
with marble sculptures.
15 TRIENNALE DI
MILANO
An exhibition space built
almost 80 years ago, it
chronicles Italian design
from the 1940s to the
present: iconic Castiglioni
lamps, Olivetti typewriters
and Cassina furnishings.
16 HANGAR BICOCCA
This former train
workshop still impresses
with its giant size. Shows
make the most of the
space, including Surasi
Kusolwongs installation
of ve visitor-friendly
ping-pong tables.
BARS/CLUBS
9 CAF MARC JACOBS
In a city that is famed for
it catwalks and designer
labels, its little surprise
that the hippest bars have
a strong fashion slant. Pop
in here for an afternoon
espresso or a late evening
(expensive) cocktail.
10 H CLUB>DIANA
Hidden behind the
Sheraton Diana Majestics
chic foyer, h club>diana
is part Art Deco atrium,
part secret garden bar.
Aperitivo hour kicks off
from 7.30pm, later, live
music and late night DJs.
11 LIVING
Living is famous for its
vodka selection: sip your
way through its 100-
strong collection. Set in a
renovated post ofce, the
bars glass windows and
sprawling terrace peek out
over Arco della Pace.
12 HOLLYWOOD
For 25 years, Hollywood
has been Milans most
popular nightclub and
Kate Moss, Tom Ford,
Jamiroquai and Carla
Bruni have partied here.
Music ranges from cheesy
electro to R & B.
OS07_040-042_Mapped.indd 42 8/21/11 3:30:31 PM
44
FLICK
CELLULOID DISSECTED
F
amed screenwriter, director
and critic Paul Schraders
writing CV includes such
not-insignifcant highlights as the
scripts for both Taxi Driver and
Raging Bull. He might, therefore,
be credited with knowing a thing
or two about the darker side of
Hollywood moviemaking.
Which is why, when it comes to
seeking out a workable definition
for film noir arguably modern
cinemas most iconic and yet
frustratingly slippery genre his
opinion is worth listening to.
When we viewers talk about
flm noir, were almost invariably
referring to its 1940s and 1950s
heyday; the classic period
which forever etched an image of
monochrome moodiness onto the
face of popular cinema. Citizen
Kane, The Maltese Falcon, Double
Indemnity, The Big Sleep, The
Third Man, Sunset Boulevard.
These are the flms that instilled
that noir notion of chain-smoking
anti-heroes clashing with femme
fatales in low-lit detective offices,
And, in many ways, these visual
tropes quickly came to defne flm
noir in the minds of cinema-going
audiences far more so, in fact,
than the twisting plotlines, moral
ambiguity and all-pervading air
of faint nihilism that many would
later insist defned the genre.
Indeed, for Schrader, noir
didnt even qualify as a genre in
its own right: It is not defined,
as are the western and gangster
genres, by conventions of setting
and conflict, he wrote in his
seminal essay Notes On Film
Noir, but rather by the more
subtle qualities of tone and mood.
A film of urban night life is not
necessarily a flm noir, and a flm
noir need not necessarily concern
crime and corruption.
All of which seems perfectly
reasonable. But, given how
deeply entrenched our
impression of a noir style
remains, can we afford to be
quite that reductive? After all,
you dont need a PhD in film
studies to pin a genre to a certain
look: a sharp-suited Humphrey
Bogart, framed in the doorway
OS07_044-045_Flick.indd 44 8/21/11 3:31:47 PM
44
FLICK
CELLULOID DISSECTED
F
amed screenwriter, director
and critic Paul Schraders
writing CV includes such
not-insignifcant highlights as the
scripts for both Taxi Driver and
Raging Bull. He might, therefore,
be credited with knowing a thing
or two about the darker side of
Hollywood moviemaking.
Which is why, when it comes to
seeking out a workable definition
for film noir arguably modern
cinemas most iconic and yet
frustratingly slippery genre his
opinion is worth listening to.
When we viewers talk about
flm noir, were almost invariably
referring to its 1940s and 1950s
heyday; the classic period
which forever etched an image of
monochrome moodiness onto the
face of popular cinema. Citizen
Kane, The Maltese Falcon, Double
Indemnity, The Big Sleep, The
Third Man, Sunset Boulevard.
These are the flms that instilled
that noir notion of chain-smoking
anti-heroes clashing with femme
fatales in low-lit detective offices,
And, in many ways, these visual
tropes quickly came to defne flm
noir in the minds of cinema-going
audiences far more so, in fact,
than the twisting plotlines, moral
ambiguity and all-pervading air
of faint nihilism that many would
later insist defned the genre.
Indeed, for Schrader, noir
didnt even qualify as a genre in
its own right: It is not defined,
as are the western and gangster
genres, by conventions of setting
and conflict, he wrote in his
seminal essay Notes On Film
Noir, but rather by the more
subtle qualities of tone and mood.
A film of urban night life is not
necessarily a flm noir, and a flm
noir need not necessarily concern
crime and corruption.
All of which seems perfectly
reasonable. But, given how
deeply entrenched our
impression of a noir style
remains, can we afford to be
quite that reductive? After all,
you dont need a PhD in film
studies to pin a genre to a certain
look: a sharp-suited Humphrey
Bogart, framed in the doorway
OS07_044-045_Flick.indd 44 8/21/11 3:31:47 PM
45
CELLULOID DISSECTED
of a backstreet whisky den? Well,
thatll be film noir, clearly.
So, if the genre should only ever
be defined by its prevailing mood
or tone, as Schrader would seem
to have it, why do we still identify
film noir by the set of stylistic
associations we have with it?
Have we fundamentally
misunderstood what elements
contribute to making a given
movie noir, or can we, in fact, do
away with scholarly subtleties of
tone and shade and simply claim
that we (quite literally) know a
film noir when we see it?
Of course, as with most
critical discussions, the real
answer probably lies somewhere
in between. The idea of fully
separating noir from its own
deeply entrenched sense of style
doesnt sit at all comfortably with
our perceptions of the genre.
Shooting The Hangover in black
and white with a bunch of suit-
wearing smokers wouldnt make
it a film noir; equally, The Third
Man would quickly cease to be
identifiable as such if remade in
glorious technicolour with a side
order of slapstick gags, song-and-
dance numbers and protagonists
running around in tracksuits.
What really seems to define
film noir, then, is a combination
of both its ingrained style and its
pervading atmosphere. In which
case, rather than what Schrader
and others felt was an inherent
hopelessness being that key
defining air, you might prefer to
argue it was something more akin
to a growing anti-establishment
groundswell a sort of post-war
cynicism. This not only helps to
account for all the trash-talking,
innuendo and wry humour
scattered across the genre, but
also gives us leverage to think
about film noir as a much more
conscious phenomenon. It even
helps explain the gender politics
on display, the desperate men and
powerful women. And, since weve
all fancied a day as a hard-boiled
1950s detective or scheming
femme fatale at some point, that
seems a much more satisfactory
outcome on every level.
MARK POWELL GETS UNDER THE SKI N OF ONE
OF FI LM S MOST MI SUNDERSTOOD GENRES
OS07_044-045_Flick.indd 45 8/21/11 3:31:47 PM
AD
74mm wide
x 224 mm high
46
FASHION DJ JEREMY HEALY GIVES US HIS FAVOURITE REMIXES
SKYPOD
TWIST AND SHOUT THE BEATLES
(ELEKTROBOX VERSION)
You can never go far wrong with The Beatles,
but the Elektrobox version of this classic tune is
guaranteed to get mums and dads dancing.
OUR MAD
SUMMER
DRAGONETTE
VS MAD
PROFESSOR VS
THE WHO
Gloriously mashed
up version of The
Whos classic, My
Generation. Then
add in a sassie
girl rap, a la Gwen
Stefani.
HOT AND FUN N.E.R.D
Ive got a lot of time for N.E.R.D, but the remix of this
song by Boys Noise just goes that bit further. A great
electro take on the original bassline by War.
GET IT ON 80S
CALVIN HARRIS VS
MARC BOLAN
T.Rex were my frst
favourite band. It is
great to be able to play
them out again 40 years
later thanks to the super
funky Calvin Harris.
Brusselssprout 2011 Cura-
torial Magazine
OS07_046-047_Skypod.indd 46 8/21/11 3:33:45 PM
oren skies utcr rtoe to enocisu.a| : :c/as/:+az :a.a+.a.
AD
74mm wide
x 224 mm high
46
FASHION DJ JEREMY HEALY GIVES US HIS FAVOURITE REMIXES
SKYPOD
TWIST AND SHOUT THE BEATLES
(ELEKTROBOX VERSION)
You can never go far wrong with The Beatles,
but the Elektrobox version of this classic tune is
guaranteed to get mums and dads dancing.
OUR MAD
SUMMER
DRAGONETTE
VS MAD
PROFESSOR VS
THE WHO
Gloriously mashed
up version of The
Whos classic, My
Generation. Then
add in a sassie
girl rap, a la Gwen
Stefani.
HOT AND FUN N.E.R.D
Ive got a lot of time for N.E.R.D, but the remix of this
song by Boys Noise just goes that bit further. A great
electro take on the original bassline by War.
GET IT ON 80S
CALVIN HARRIS VS
MARC BOLAN
T.Rex were my frst
favourite band. It is
great to be able to play
them out again 40 years
later thanks to the super
funky Calvin Harris.
Brusselssprout 2011 Cura-
torial Magazine
OS07_046-047_Skypod.indd 46 8/21/11 3:33:45 PM
47
SKYPOD
ITS A BUBBLE BENI
This is a liquid-funk groove, no
doubt destined to be played in
stripped down form at Ibizas
most notorious club, the
wonderful DC10, this year.
ONE NATION ARMY THE WHITE
STRIPES VS SWEDISH HOUSE MAFIA
Jack Whites seminal rif gets everyone
singing along instantly! Then those Swedish
boys take it on and spin it around.
REPLICA IN THE DEEP AFROJACK VS ADELE
If you like things to get a bit chaotic, then I promise
you that this little ditty will create a moshpit in the
middle of any dance foor.
DONT STOP TIL YOU GET ENOUGH MICHAEL
JACKSON (GIGAMESH REMIX)
The Gigamesh remix is a pumping update , but it still
stays true enough to the original, with Quincy Jones
perfect orchestration intact.
GOD LOVE
LOCKDOWN
COLDPLAY VS
KANYE WEST
We all know that what
Kanye wants to be more
than anything is a rock
star so here he is,
backed up by the boys
from Coldplay.
WWW.JEREMYHEALY.COM
OS07_046-047_Skypod.indd 47 8/21/11 3:33:47 PM
49
LOCAL VOICES
THE EVOLUTION
OF GULF FASHION
BREAKING
THE MODE
EMIRATI FASHION SENSE IS A LOT MORE COMPLEX
THAN IT MAY FIRST SEEM, SAYS WAEL AL SAYEGH
I
L
L
U
S
T
R
A
T
I
O
N

B
Y

V
E
S
N
A

P
E
S
I
C
A
t frst glance, you might
be forgiven for thinking
that fashion in traditional
Gulf Arab societies is limited to the
strict formula of men wear white
and women wear black. On closer
inspection, however, one can clearly
see, woven between the seams, a
changing story of heritage allied to
modernisation, globalisation, and
increasing versatility.
Gulf Arab clothes are a refection
of the environment and culture they
were born from. A desert climate
dictates that as much of the body
as possible be covered from the
powerful rays of the sun.
The Arabic word abaya means
covering and usually describes a
loose fitting, black over-garment
worn by both men and women.
Head-coverings for both men and
women are also considered very
important. Leaving home without
covering your head, apart from
being a health hazard in the strong
sun, is considered by some to be a
shameful act.
A mans abaya, generally known as
a bisht, is a long translucent garment
decorated with gold embroidery on
its sides and worn over a kandoora,
the long, usually white, fowing
garment. The bisht is normally seen
only on very formal occasions such
as weddings, graduations, or on
visiting the court of a countrys ruler.
Its design has changed very little
over the years.
Ladies abayas, by comparison, have
seen great changes. Today they are
clearly drawing inspiration from other
cultures. Whereas they were once a
one style and one colour fts all afair,
now the options for personalisation are
seemingly endless.
Wide ft, slim ft, tight ft, wide
sleeves and tight sleeves are just
some of the choices. Depending on
how bold and daring ones character
OS07_049-051_Column.indd 49 8/21/11 3:37:08 PM
1957 1962 1982 1959
50
is, you can opt for see-through fabric
or elaborate accessories such as fur,
feathers, beads and crystals, or even
a shorter hem to show a little leg.
Some abayas come in muted shades
of brown, blue and green. I once saw
a punk-rock style studded abaya that
stopped me dead in my tracks.
Designers such as Rani Khaoger,
a Saudi, and Lamya Abedin, an
Emirati, have successfully merged
Western styles into their designs.
These changes to the style of
female dress, which some have
dubbed the abaya revolution, have
proved controversial.
Gulf Arab traditionalists, who
believe the abayas primary function
is to modestly cover a woman,
complain that modern adaptations
attract attention to the wearer. The
question of how far the concept of
abaya can be stretched (what point
does it start to become a dress?), is an
ongoing debate.
Mens kandooras (also known as
dishdashas, jalabayas or thobes)
have seen changes too. Each Gulf
Cooperation Council (GCC) country
traditionally had its own distinctive
cut. A notable change over the past
few years is the emergence of hybrid
styles that show, for example, a
Kuwaiti open collar blended with
a tight Qatari ft around the chest
and shoulders. Coloured winter
kandooras, from sky-blue to deep
purple, now make their way out of the
wardrobe much earlier in the year.
The appearance of Nero and
Chinese collars is another example
of how other cultural influences
Take 12 disgruntled
men, one of whom
should be Henry Fonda,
bring to the boil and
simmer in a hot room
until theyve decided
the fate of a slum
dwelling youth accused
of murdering his father.
The recipe for the best
legal drama of all time
Twelve Angry Men.
With a Saul Bass title
sequence, a score (and
cameo performance)
from jazz great Duke
Ellington, and James
Stewart as lawyer Paul
Biegler, legendary
director Otto
Premingers trial
drama, Anatomy Of A
Murder, was never
going to fail, was it?
Gregory Peck won an
Oscar for his portrayal
of lawyer Atticus Finch
in To Kill A Mocking-
bird the story of the
rape trial of innocent
black man Tom
Robinson. Keep an eye
out for Robert Duvall,
making his debut as
the misunderstood
Arthur Boo Radley.
Sidney Lumets The
Verdict, in which Paul
Newman stars as Frank
Galvin, an alcoholic
Boston Lawyer trying
to save his reputation
by winning a medical
malpractice case, is
another classic. A prize
for anyone who spots
a young Bruce Willis in
the closing scene.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF LAWYERS IN THE MOVIES
OS07_049-051_Column.indd 50 8/21/11 3:37:16 PM
1957 1962 1982 1959
50
is, you can opt for see-through fabric
or elaborate accessories such as fur,
feathers, beads and crystals, or even
a shorter hem to show a little leg.
Some abayas come in muted shades
of brown, blue and green. I once saw
a punk-rock style studded abaya that
stopped me dead in my tracks.
Designers such as Rani Khaoger,
a Saudi, and Lamya Abedin, an
Emirati, have successfully merged
Western styles into their designs.
These changes to the style of
female dress, which some have
dubbed the abaya revolution, have
proved controversial.
Gulf Arab traditionalists, who
believe the abayas primary function
is to modestly cover a woman,
complain that modern adaptations
attract attention to the wearer. The
question of how far the concept of
abaya can be stretched (what point
does it start to become a dress?), is an
ongoing debate.
Mens kandooras (also known as
dishdashas, jalabayas or thobes)
have seen changes too. Each Gulf
Cooperation Council (GCC) country
traditionally had its own distinctive
cut. A notable change over the past
few years is the emergence of hybrid
styles that show, for example, a
Kuwaiti open collar blended with
a tight Qatari ft around the chest
and shoulders. Coloured winter
kandooras, from sky-blue to deep
purple, now make their way out of the
wardrobe much earlier in the year.
The appearance of Nero and
Chinese collars is another example
of how other cultural influences
Take 12 disgruntled
men, one of whom
should be Henry Fonda,
bring to the boil and
simmer in a hot room
until theyve decided
the fate of a slum
dwelling youth accused
of murdering his father.
The recipe for the best
legal drama of all time
Twelve Angry Men.
With a Saul Bass title
sequence, a score (and
cameo performance)
from jazz great Duke
Ellington, and James
Stewart as lawyer Paul
Biegler, legendary
director Otto
Premingers trial
drama, Anatomy Of A
Murder, was never
going to fail, was it?
Gregory Peck won an
Oscar for his portrayal
of lawyer Atticus Finch
in To Kill A Mocking-
bird the story of the
rape trial of innocent
black man Tom
Robinson. Keep an eye
out for Robert Duvall,
making his debut as
the misunderstood
Arthur Boo Radley.
Sidney Lumets The
Verdict, in which Paul
Newman stars as Frank
Galvin, an alcoholic
Boston Lawyer trying
to save his reputation
by winning a medical
malpractice case, is
another classic. A prize
for anyone who spots
a young Bruce Willis in
the closing scene.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF LAWYERS IN THE MOVIES
OS07_049-051_Column.indd 50 8/21/11 3:37:16 PM
1996 1992 1993 2011
51
are being expressed in our clothes.
While those of a more conservative
religious inclination customarily
shorten the hem of their kandoora to
ensure it stays clean when it comes
to prayer time, others add Western-
style shirt pockets and cufflinks.
The Gulf Arab clothes industry now
includes non-Gulf Arab designers,
with brands such as Burberry, Calvin
Klein, Christian Dior, Dunhill and
Givenchy just some of the big names
that have entered the local market
from abroad.
Versatility plays a key part in
todays lifestyle. Formal occasions
demand diferent attire from casual
life. Men who wear their gotra, (the
white or white-and-red scarf for the
head) and eqal (the black rope worn
around the head to anchor the gotra)
in the ofce, might choose to dress
down and wear an esamah (a gotra
worn turban-style) at the weekend.
Some have even taken to baseball
caps as an alternative.
When travelling abroad, it is
common to adopt full Western
attire. The change in appearance
(from local to Western dress) can be
quite startling to those who see the
results of a swift transformation that
has taken place in an aeroplanes
cramped lavatory.
Whichever way you look at Gulf
Arab clothes, whether you think they
are deliberately defying tradition
or are simply evolving naturally to
refect the times we live in, one thing
is for sure; there is more to their story
than merely men wear white and
women wear black.
LOCAL VOICES
If the International Bar
Association Conference
was a lm, it would
have a cast of thou-
sands, and a crew that
would make Scorsese
blush. With 5,000 legal
delegates coming to
Dubai from October
30 to November 4, this
promises to be quite
the legal blockbuster.
Barry Levinsons
Sleepers features four
kids who almost kill
a man with a hot dog
cart, are abused by a re-
form school guard, take
revenge 15 years later
and end up in court
with assistant district
attorney Michael Sul-
livan (Brad Pitt) trying
to get them off.
Daniel Day-Lewis, Pete
Postlethwaite and
Emma Thompson dis-
play the best of British
in In The Name Of The
Father the story of
four men wrongly con-
victed of an IRA bomb-
ing and the attempts of
female attorney Gareth
Peirce (Thompson) to
free them.
Watch My Cousin Vinny
and youll be glad Joe
Pescis rooky lawyer,
Vincent Laguardia Gam-
bini, isnt related to you.
Unless youre one of
two teenagers arrested
for murder in Alabama,
that is. Fred Gwynnes
(Herman Munster) turn
as Judge Chamberlain
Haller was his last.
OS07_049-051_Column.indd 51 8/21/11 3:37:39 PM
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53
INTERVIEW
MY
TRAVELLED LIFE
LEONARD LOGSDAI L, 62, TAI LOR
ON SAVILE ROW
I met my wife, who is American, and moved
[from Savile Row] to New York. But I was
reading in The Times the other day that
the importance of Savile Row has returned
to the halcyon days, which is encouraging.
They have set up an independent union and
are nally coming out of the dark ages.
ON STYLE
My denition of style is timeless elegance
and the ability to have the courage of ones
convictions. One should be aware of fashion
trends, but always try and stamp your own
element of individuality on something.
I always suggest someone should dress
for their shape, and always have a smart,
navy suit you cant go wrong with one
of those. Otherwise, just make sure you
dont look ridiculous. A couple of unfor-
giveables are a check shirt with a striped
suit, matching ties and pocket squares and
short sleeve shirts.
ON ITALY
My favourite destination is Tuscany. My wife
and I visited in 2010 and stayed in an 11th
century castle for a few days before moving
on to Rome. The Castello di Vicarello boasts
its own vineyard and olive groves, and sits
high in the Tuscan hills.

ON TRAVEL STYLE
If youre going somewhere hot, make sure you
have nice cotton and linen blends and that
applies for shorts and suits alike. Also, include
shirts that wont show perspiration. If travelling
to cooler climes, I advise one smart suit
typically the safe navy option a chino and
blazer combination and a shirt for each day.
ON PACKING
Some suggest using the dry cleaning bags
from a hotel to keep the shape of a suit
during travel, which works to a certain
extent. Certainly, if youve had your shirts
laundered, keep them in the plastic covers.
It takes up room, but the shirts stay pressed.
Some wear their best suit on the flight,
where you can hang your jacket onboard.
ON SHORTS
Personal style is dictated by the individual.
No one would scoff at Brad Pitt wearing
shorts on a plane, but might raise an
eyebrow at Michael Douglas. As a man of
advancing years, no one wants to see my
pasty legs, so you wont see me in shorts,
but casual chinos and a shirt might do
the trick. Comfort is important.
OS07_053-053_Skycats.indd 53 8/21/11 3:44:11 PM
54
GLOBAL WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM F^SHO SPOTTER PHL OH CHECKS OUT SOME CLOB^L F^SHOST^S
STREET PEEP ER
LUKE MOUT^
MENSWEAR BUYER
NEW YORK
Borsalino hat
Cantarelli jacket
Bergdorf Goodman shirt
Simon Spurr tie
Lanvin shoes
C^ROLE SEBER,
STYLIST + SOCIALITE
LONDON
Chanel jacket & skirt
^M^D^ BROOKS
FASHION DIRECTOR,
BARNEYS NEW YORK
NEW YORK
Brooks Brothers shirt
Celine bag
Celine shoes
STEFÔ UCHETT
FASHION DESIGNER,
CAMO
PARIS
Camo
OS07_054-055_Peeper.indd 54 8/21/11 5:19:21 PM
55
GLOBAL WWW.STREETPEEPER.COM F^SHO SPOTTER PHL OH CHECKS OUT SOME CLOB^L F^SHOST^S
OROMA ELEWA
EDITOR IN CHIEF,
POP AFRICANA
NEW YORK
Maki Oh dress
BRUCE P^SK
MENS FASHION
DIRECTOR, NY TIMES
T MAGAZINE
NEW YORK
Helmut Lang jacket
J Crew shirt
Brooks Brothers trousers
L L KwOC
MODEL & BLOGGER
NEW YORK
Marni dress
Marni shoes
Mark Cross bag
BRDCET M^LCOLM
MODEL
SYDNEY
all vintage
OS07_054-055_Peeper.indd 55 8/21/11 5:20:01 PM
56
PLACE
ARCHI TECTURE MAPPED ANN DEMEULEMEESTER STORE SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA BUI LT 2007
I
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G
E
S
:

Y
O
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OS07_056-057_Place.indd 56 8/21/11 3:50:07 PM
56
PLACE
I
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K
I
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OS07_056-057_Place.indd 56 8/21/11 3:50:07 PM
57
I
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S
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K
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OS07_056-057_Place.indd 57 8/21/11 3:50:15 PM
WORDS: JEFFREY MACINTYRE / IMAGE: JACQUELINE KLASSEN
STORE
58
URBAN CARTOGRAPHYMAGNOLIANEW YORK BAKERY
N
ew Yorkers fancy themselves
as few things more than
authentic, independent and
resilient. The epicurean set carry on
in the same vein, defiant to uphold the
traditions of the corner deli and the all-
night diner as much as the next-new-
thing eatery. So, its little surprise that
New York spawned Magnolia Bakery,
that local stalwart of scratch baking
which turned 15 years old this August.
Time was, Magnolia was a single
bakery of humble means in the
West Village of Manhattan. Today,
between locations in the Upper West
Side, Grand Central Terminal, and
Rockefeller Center, its a culinary brand
on the march. Its expansion of late
has it putting down stakes in a corner
storefront space at Bloomingdales on
Fifth Avenue, and it recently landed in
Los Angeles and Dubai.
Its calling card may have been an
iconic Sex and the City cupcake cameo
10 years ago, but the folks behind
Magnolia tout something else to explain
its lasting power: nostalgia.
Every neighbourhood had a bakery,
explains Steven Abrams, Magnolias
owner. Theyve disappeared now.
Where I grew up in Queens,
says Abrams, 53, there were all
these bakeries. Those places have
slowly died out, leaving a hole in the
culture and weve flled it. No base,
no mix no problem, claims the
Magnolia management. As Bonnie Lloyd,
Magnolias President and Chief Baking
OS07_058-059_Store.indd 58 8/21/11 3:51:45 PM
59
Ofcer says: We started with classic
chocolate and classic vanilla. Weve
added to the mix. But I shouldnt say that
there is no mix.
We bake about 120 variations of
these products every day in all our
stores, including cupcakes, she adds.
According to Lloyd, also 53, there is
little risk of this bakery becoming a
victim of its own much-hyped success.
We know what our customers like
and what sells well. We can adjust our
baking over the course of a day.
Magnolias clientele runs the gamut
of men and women, locals and tourists
alike. The Magnolia menu is full of
baked goods of every sort. Prices range
from $1 up to ritzy cakes north of $50.
Yet for all the small-town pretense,
Magnolia is a powerhouse, a name
recognisable to anyone who has read
a New York travel guide in the last
decade, let alone the syndicated long
tail of Sex And The City fame.
Still, this clout may prove key in
shoring up its argument of prolonging
the baking traditions of bygone days.
In this country where packaged foods
have been part of the culture since the
1970s, Its rare to have a bakery that
really bakes, says Lloyd. We bake on
our premises. Weve been doing it for 15
years, so theres no reason to change a
formula that works.
Magnolia Bakery, 401 Bleeker Street, New York,
(212) 462-2572; www.magnoliabakery.com
OS07_058-059_Store.indd 59 8/21/11 3:51:47 PM
WORDS: JEFFREY MACINTYRE / IMAGE: JACQUELINE KLASSEN
STORE
58
N
ew Yorkers fancy themselves
as few things more than
authentic, independent and
resilient. The epicurean set carry on
in the same vein, defiant to uphold the
traditions of the corner deli and the all-
night diner as much as the next-new-
thing eatery. So, its little surprise that
New York spawned Magnolia Bakery,
that local stalwart of scratch baking
which turned 15 years old this August.
Time was, Magnolia was a single
bakery of humble means in the
West Village of Manhattan. Today,
between locations in the Upper West
Side, Grand Central Terminal, and
Rockefeller Center, its a culinary brand
on the march. Its expansion of late
has it putting down stakes in a corner
storefront space at Bloomingdales on
Fifth Avenue, and it recently landed in
Los Angeles and Dubai.
Its calling card may have been an
iconic Sex and the City cupcake cameo
10 years ago, but the folks behind
Magnolia tout something else to explain
its lasting power: nostalgia.
Every neighbourhood had a bakery,
explains Steven Abrams, Magnolias
owner. Theyve disappeared now.
Where I grew up in Queens,
says Abrams, 53, there were all
these bakeries. Those places have
slowly died out, leaving a hole in the
culture and weve flled it. No base,
no mix no problem, claims the
Magnolia management. As Bonnie Lloyd,
Magnolias President and Chief Baking
OS07_058-059_Store.indd 58 8/21/11 3:51:45 PM
59
Ofcer says: We started with classic
chocolate and classic vanilla. Weve
added to the mix. But I shouldnt say that
there is no mix.
We bake about 120 variations of
these products every day in all our
stores, including cupcakes, she adds.
According to Lloyd, also 53, there is
little risk of this bakery becoming a
victim of its own much-hyped success.
We know what our customers like
and what sells well. We can adjust our
baking over the course of a day.
Magnolias clientele runs the gamut
of men and women, locals and tourists
alike. The Magnolia menu is full of
baked goods of every sort. Prices range
from $1 up to ritzy cakes north of $50.
Yet for all the small-town pretense,
Magnolia is a powerhouse, a name
recognisable to anyone who has read
a New York travel guide in the last
decade, let alone the syndicated long
tail of Sex And The City fame.
Still, this clout may prove key in
shoring up its argument of prolonging
the baking traditions of bygone days.
In this country where packaged foods
have been part of the culture since the
1970s, Its rare to have a bakery that
really bakes, says Lloyd. We bake on
our premises. Weve been doing it for 15
years, so theres no reason to change a
formula that works.
Magnolia Bakery, 401 Bleeker Street, New York,
(212) 462-2572; www.magnoliabakery.com
OS07_058-059_Store.indd 59 8/21/11 3:51:47 PM

60
WE PICK UP SOME
STYLISH SUITCASE
FILLERS IN GERMANY
Shopping Pad, $8.
Never forget your list
again with this rather
quirky notepad.
ITABA, Tngesgasse 42
Karate Chicken, $58.
Who says the
Germans have no
sense of humour?
Rtzel & Co, Berliner St. 42
Figurine, $29.
Gloriously upbeat
design from a local
Frankfurt artist.
1 2
1 3
2
FRANKFURT
BOOTY
3
OS07_060-061_Booty.indd 60 8/21/11 3:53:31 PM

60
WE PICK UP SOME
STYLISH SUITCASE
FILLERS IN GERMANY
Shopping Pad, $8.
Never forget your list
again with this rather
quirky notepad.
ITABA, Tngesgasse 42
Karate Chicken, $58.
Who says the
Germans have no
sense of humour?
Figurine, $29.
Gloriously upbeat
design from a local
Frankfurt artist.
1 2
1 3
2
FRANKFURT
BOOTY
3
OS07_060-061_Booty.indd 60 8/21/11 3:53:31 PM
61
German Vinyl $3.
Old school German
pop. Record player
not included.
Oxfam, Tngesgasse 35
032c magazine, $14.
Hip German style
magazine.
Ubervart, Kleiner
Hirschgraben 14
+-0 Alarm Clock, $56
Japanese design with
Asian simplicity.
Form Im Raum,
Berliner Str. 60
4 5
6
4
6
5
OS07_060-061_Booty.indd 61 8/21/11 3:53:33 PM
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fitflop.pdf 8/22/11 1:18:51 PM
63
CALENDAR
RHINE IN FLAMES
BEIJING FRINGE FESTIVAL
BRAZILIAN INDEPENDENCE DAY
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
SEOUL FILM & VIDEO FESTIVAL
september
T
h
u
F
r
i
S
a
t
S
u
n
M
o
n
T
u
e
W
e
d
T
h
u
F
r
i
S
a
t
S
u
n
M
o
n
T
u
e
W
e
d
Thu
Fri
Sat
Sun
M
on
T
u
e
W
e
d
T
h
u
F
r
i
S
a
t
S
u
n
M
o
n
T
u
e
W
e
d
T
h
u
F
r
i
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
1
0
1
1
1
2
1
3
1
4
15
16
17
18
1
9
2
0
2
1
2
2
2
3
2
4
2
5
2
6
2
7
2
8
2
9
3
0
Explore Seouls creativity at the
Experimental Film & Video Festival.
www.ex-is.org
Fashion is practically a religion in
New York and this is its holy week.
www.mbfashionweek.com
Plays, concerts and performances
pop up all over Chinas capital.
www.beijing-tourism.com
Celebrate the biggest party in
samba-crazy Brazil.
www.braziltour.com
The banks of The Rhine will be
ablaze in pyrotechnic beauty.
www.rhein-in-f lammen.com
OS07_063-063_Calendar 63 8/21/11 3:56:41 PM
65
C
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C
O
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S
T
R
U
C
T
S
BEAUTY AT THE EDGE
OF THE SOVIET EMPIRE
P
9
8
MAIN
I. THE FASHlON HOAX P. 76 HONG KONG'S DlSAIIEAPlNG TAlLOPS I. 88 HOW TO DPESS FOP SUCCESS
OS07_065-065_MAINCover.indd 65 8/21/11 3:58:22 PM
65
C
O
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C
O
N
S
T
R
U
C
T
S
BEAUTY AT THE EDGE
OF THE SOVIET EMPIRE
P
9
8
MAIN
I. THE FASHlON HOAX P. 76 HONG KONG'S DlSAIIEAPlNG TAlLOPS I. 88 HOW TO DPESS FOP SUCCESS
OS07_065-065_MAINCover.indd 65 8/21/11 3:58:22 PM
66
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OS07_066-072_LastDaysFashion.indd 66 8/21/11 4:05:26 PM
66
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68
FASHION FAIL
T
hey say pop will eat
itself. If fashion ever
ate anything, it would
probably do the same.
Like an addict, the
industry keeps consuming the same
thing over and over again, hoping this
time the thrill will last. But it never
does. Once a line hits the runway its
already obsolete, ready to be ground
down and served up all over again.
Like an addict, fashion lies, cheats and
is really only concerned with itself.
Once it fnds a new addiction a new
model, muse, or designer it only
wants more of the same. Once youve
hung around with it for a while, it can
get, well, kind of boring.
I work closely with the fashion
industry in Australia. But Im not
going to tell you my real name. Not
because Im scared the hipsters might
come to my door and do something
nasty. But because Im afraid theyll
stop doling out my pay cheques. Yeah,
Im one of them. Sorry about that. But
think of this as a confession, an airing
of dirty size-zero laundry, a report
from the velvet trenches. Ill admit it:
I am a self-loathing fashionista and
Im biting the hand that feeds me.
Fashion is neurotic. Its this way
because wrapped up at the heart of
it lies a paradox. Fashion is all about
newness, but these days there are
very few genuinely new ideas to be
had. No matter how outrageous the
label, each collection must consist
of the same basic things: frocks,
separates, accessories. Occasionally a
new variation will arise the playsuit
or harem pants until consumers
realise (slowly, usually) how hideous
they make everyone look, at which
point theyll be quietly shelved for
<
7
H
9
;

68
FASHION FAIL
T
hey say pop will eat
itself. If fashion ever
ate anything, it would
probably do the same.
Like an addict, the
industry keeps consuming the same
thing over and over again, hoping this
time the thrill will last. But it never
does. Once a line hits the runway its
already obsolete, ready to be ground
down and served up all over again.
Like an addict, fashion lies, cheats and
is really only concerned with itself.
Once it fnds a new addiction a new
model, muse, or designer it only
wants more of the same. Once youve
hung around with it for a while, it can
get, well, kind of boring.
I work closely with the fashion
industry in Australia. But Im not
going to tell you my real name. Not
because Im scared the hipsters might
come to my door and do something
nasty. But because Im afraid theyll
stop doling out my pay cheques. Yeah,
Im one of them. Sorry about that. But
think of this as a confession, an airing
of dirty size-zero laundry, a report
from the velvet trenches. Ill admit it:
I am a self-loathing fashionista and
Im biting the hand that feeds me.
Fashion is neurotic. Its this way
because wrapped up at the heart of
it lies a paradox. Fashion is all about
newness, but these days there are
very few genuinely new ideas to be
had. No matter how outrageous the
label, each collection must consist
of the same basic things: frocks,
separates, accessories. Occasionally a
new variation will arise the playsuit
or harem pants until consumers
realise (slowly, usually) how hideous
they make everyone look, at which
point theyll be quietly shelved for
<
7
H
9
;

69
a few years before they come round
once more. Again displayed as utterly
new, unique, boundary-breaking,
zeitgeist-making.
Yes, silhouettes change and
colours morph over time. But here
too, novelty is a sham. The 1970s
plundered the 19th century, the
1980s looked to the 1940s (ask your
grandma those power shoulder
pads were nothing new), the 1990s
nicked stuf from the 1970s, and since
the turn of the millennium weve
churned through 1980s and now were
back to the 1990s again. Plus theres
the rotating, same-same triumvirate
of nautical looks (sailor hats, blue
and white stripes, anchor motifs),
safari (animal print, ridiculous Out
of Africa costumes) and chinoiserie
(giving Chinese factory workers a
chance to produce simulacra of their
countrys rich heritage for Western
high streets). The whole industry is
really just going round and round in
ever-decreasing circles. But theyre
hoping if they move fast enough
youll be sucked in just the same.
Perhaps we in the media should be
doing a better job at calling them out,
but, as I say, they pay my wages and
through big budget ad campaigns
my companys bills, too. They also fll
our wardrobes. You didnt really think
we could aford Christian Louboutin
heels and Balenciaga dresses on
journalists wages. did you? Whatever
fashion is about, were about too.
But at the same time were bored,
listless, looking for novelty (you
try and write your 26th completely
unrealistic story about why its OK
to wear shorts to the ofce or your
millionth expose on new pastels for
summer and see how you feel). Which
is why, like our fashion industry
70
FASHION FAIL
colleagues, well grab on to just about
anything exciting that comes along
especially if it seems dangerous,
provocative, mad or potentially illegal.
Since mainstream fashions stash
of new ideas burnt out decades ago,
everything original comes from
outsiders the weirder and more
messed up the better. But the cutting
edge is called that for a reason.
It hurts and it often leaves its
victims slashed and bloody in
the process. Fashion has always
had a thing for self-destruction.
Witness its morbid fascination with
brilliant but doomed chanteuse Amy
Winehouse. In 2007, Karl Lagerfeld
made her his muse for his December
Chanel show. Even when it was clear
the damaged singer was in freefall,
fashion was still knocking at her
door. Her posthumous line for Fred
Perry has already gone on sale. At a
photo shoot before her death a writer
for Harpers Bazaar described her as
unsteady... barely intelligible but
the (fashion) show went on.
Fashions chief purveyors are
famously unstable. Sometimes
tragically so the hanging suicide
of designer Alexander McQueen and
self-administered poisoning of stylist
Isabella Blow are at the saddest,
most extreme, end of the spectrum.
But then theres Donatella Versaces
well-publicised, long-running
drug addiction; Naomi Campbells
thuggish antics; photographer
Terry Richardsons alleged, less
than professional dealings with his
young models. All are still working
though: in fashion-think, criminals
are always cool. Sure theres the
occasional hypocritical slapping of
wrists: John Galliano was fred from
Christian Dior after video footage of
him abusing two women he thought
were Jewish and drunkenly declaring
I love Hitler surfaced on the TV
news. But was it the anti-Semitism
or the fact it got leaked that fnally
tipped logo overlords LVMH over
the edge? Kate Moss was dropped by
Chanel, H&M and Burberry after her
2005 drug scandal. But, shes still the
third best-paid model in the world,
raking in $13.5 million a year.
Even without the tabloid lifestyle,
Moss herself has always courted
outrage. Her waifsh frame ushered
in the era of painfully thin models in
the mid 1990s, and 15 years later its
still going strong. Given fashions yen
for reinvention, it might seem odd
that the super-skinny ideal has stuck
around so long. Im certainly ready
for it to end.
Every fashion shoot Ive been on,
I divide my time between hating
myself for treating the 14 or 15-year-
old models like (very lean) pieces of
meat and fguring out ways to cover
up bony clavicles, knobbly knees,
fragile-looking forearms.
Eating disorders are so widespread
no one even notices them anymore.
Some time ago, I issued a spotters
guide to bulimics and anorexics for
my photographers and stylists so
theyd know who to turn away. Look
for hairy arms, pinched lips, mood
swings and brittle nails, I said, and
unnaturally plump cheeks caused
by acidic vomit irritating the inside
of the mouth. But I still sometimes
get pictures of girls whose thighs are
smaller than their knees. Theyre
standard issue these days.
To sell clothes to adult women,
fashion looks to pre-pubescents.
Theres an old episode of Absolutely
Fabulous where Patsy says something
like, If the models get any younger
theyll be throwing foetuses down the
runway. These days, that seems more
like prophecy than comedy. Vogue
and Elle were recently called out for
sexploitation after using a 10-year-
old model in their editorial shoots.
Photos of Thylane Blondeau have her
heavily made-up, dressed in vampish
clothing, posing as a seductress,
a femme fatale. British Prime
Minister David Cameron has publicly
denounced the photos, and yes its
shocking thats exactly what fashion
wants. But in truth, Thylane isnt that
much younger than most girls in the
modelling world. Give her 10 or so
years and shell be over the hill.
But childhood isnt the only place
fashion stalks those with fat chests
and freakishly long legs. The newest
It Girl of the modelling world is
actually a man 19-year-old Andrej
Pejic whose androgynous looks have
seen him walk in shows for Givenchy
and Jean Paul Gaultier.
His topless cover for Dossier
magazine was censored by Barnes &
Noble in case customers confuse him
for a woman. Which youd think was
the whole point. Andrej is pretty: he
was even voted number 98 in FHMs
100 Sexiest Women in the World poll
this year. And he seems like a nice
bloke (hes from my hometown, so
I might be biased). But along with
Everything original
in fashion comes from
outsiders, the weirder
and more messed
up the better
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72
FASHION FAIL
kiddie models like Thylane and
regular catwalk waifs, he represents
something Ive always found sinister
about the industry that pays my
wages. The ongoing campaign to
demonise traditional womanly
features breasts, bottoms, thighs. So
far as fashions concerned, curves are
gross and not very proftable.
Obesity, as Karl Lagerfeld, the
industrys ever-shrinking, ghoulish
godfather, so politely points
out, is a social issue: In
France there are, I think,
less than one per cent of
people who are too skinny,
he says. There are nearly 30
per cent of young people who are too
fat. So lets take care of the zillions
of the too-fat before we talk about
the percentage thats left. But what
he fails to mention is how extreme
skinniness is what his industry runs
on. Its the ultimate drug, knocking
life into merchandising, retail and
branding. Pumping money into the
veins of haute couture, if not food into
the bellies of its adherents.
Fashion is meant to sell
clothes. Clothes are
bought in stores on
racks, hanging from
coat hangers or
increasingly on the
internet, displayed fat
against white studio
backgrounds. What
matters here is not
looking good on a
person, but looking
good on a hanger.
When people do have
to enter the equation,
in places like
catwalk shows and
editorial shoots,
it makes sense to hire the human
equivalent of those clothes hangers.
Pre-pubescents, teens whove dodged
puberty through starvation and
(occasionally) skinny men all ft the
bill perfectly.
Yes, fashion is meant to sell clothes.
But these days theyre almost beside
the point. The grand design houses
are multi-million dollar operations
and a large chunk of their
revenue comes not from clothing, but
assorted brand extensions: perfume
lines, handbags, licensing deals. In a
way, the clothes are just a front. The
people who wear them are walking,
talking brand ambassadors, meant
to inspire the rest of us who cant
aford $10,000 for a one-season frock
to instead drop our cash on branded
scents, accessories, TV shows, credit
cards. The
industry
doesnt
want
fatties
for
ambassadors.
Thats why
average-sized
women cant fnd
prt--porter clothes
that ft. They were
never meant for
them.
And thats why
fashion needs scandal,
it needs column
inches, it
needs
9
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AD
72
FASHION FAIL
kiddie models like Thylane and
regular catwalk waifs, he represents
something Ive always found sinister
about the industry that pays my
wages. The ongoing campaign to
demonise traditional womanly
features breasts, bottoms, thighs. So
far as fashions concerned, curves are
gross and not very proftable.
Obesity, as Karl Lagerfeld, the
industrys ever-shrinking, ghoulish
godfather, so politely points
out, is a social issue: In
France there are, I think,
less than one per cent of
people who are too skinny,
he says. There are nearly 30
per cent of young people who are too
fat. So lets take care of the zillions
of the too-fat before we talk about
the percentage thats left. But what
he fails to mention is how extreme
skinniness is what his industry runs
on. Its the ultimate drug, knocking
life into merchandising, retail and
branding. Pumping money into the
veins of haute couture, if not food into
the bellies of its adherents.
Fashion is meant to sell
clothes. Clothes are
bought in stores on
racks, hanging from
coat hangers or
increasingly on the
internet, displayed fat
against white studio
backgrounds. What
matters here is not
looking good on a
person, but looking
good on a hanger.
When people do have
to enter the equation,
in places like
catwalk shows and
editorial shoots,
it makes sense to hire the human
equivalent of those clothes hangers.
Pre-pubescents, teens whove dodged
puberty through starvation and
(occasionally) skinny men all ft the
bill perfectly.
Yes, fashion is meant to sell clothes.
But these days theyre almost beside
the point. The grand design houses
are multi-million dollar operations
and a large chunk of their
revenue comes not from clothing, but
assorted brand extensions: perfume
lines, handbags, licensing deals. In a
way, the clothes are just a front. The
people who wear them are walking,
talking brand ambassadors, meant
to inspire the rest of us who cant
aford $10,000 for a one-season frock
to instead drop our cash on branded
scents, accessories, TV shows, credit
cards. The
industry
doesnt
want
fatties
for
ambassadors.
Thats why
average-sized
women cant fnd
prt--porter clothes
that ft. They were
never meant for
them.
And thats why
fashion needs scandal,
it needs column
inches, it
needs
9
H
7
P
O

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74
FASHION FAIL
attention. It sells dreams rather than
clothes. Sometimes it sells nightmares.
Thus Gallianos Hitler-loving scandal
(nothing so cutting-edge as fascism)
is just as good for the industry as its
occasional and grotesquely ironic
firtation with regular-sized women.
Fashion loves a freak. When Vogue
Italia recently put three plus-sized
models on its cover it wasnt staking a
claim for the female of the species, it
was saying: Hey, look at these weirdos!
Please buy multiple copies and cover
us extensively in the fashion media!
Look how avant garde we are!
Vogue might not be running quite
as scared as the rest of the traditional
print media (though its circulation
fgures are starting to decline in
some territories), but its a bastion
of fashions old guard. Emphasis
on old. The new black in terms of
fashion media comes not from big
publishing houses, but bloggers like
Tavi Gevinson (a 15-year-old) and
street-style photographers such as
The Sartorialists Scott Schuman.
These are the folk flling the front rows
of fashion shows right now. Theyre
something new to play with. And while
they might have started of subverting
fashions strict hierarchy, these days
theyre part of the pecking order.
With fashions new focus on street
style, recessionistas and mixing
designer threads with chain-store
buys, the wider industry those
slaving away beyond the Milan-
Paris-New York axis is under
greater scrutiny. What happens in
the world of haute couture happens
on the high street. As Meryl Streeps
thinly veiled Anna Wintour parody,
Miranda Priestly, says in The Devil
Wears Prada: You think this has
nothing to do with you. You go to
your closet and you select that lumpy
blue sweater... but what you dont
know is that that sweater is not just
blue. Its not turquoise. Its not lapis.
Its actually cerulean. And youre
also blithely unaware of the fact
that in 2002 Oscar de la Renta did a
collection of cerulean gowns... and
then cerulean quickly showed up
in the collections of eight diferent
designers. And then it fltered down
through the department stores and
then trickled on down into some tragic
Casual Corner where you, no doubt,
fshed it out of some clearance bin.
But its not just colourways fltering
down from on high. Its ethics, too.
The fashion worlds dark underbelly
found in sweatshops with poor
working conditions, non-unionised
labour, child workers and pitiful pay
is all too easy to see, but few bother
to look. And dont think those Made in
Germany or Made in America labels
get you of the hook. Sweatshops
exist pretty much everywhere. And
the labels are just as easy to sew on
overseas. You can buy big reels of
them in the backstreets of Hong
Kong. On buying trips, we used to
joke that there must be factories
in Shenzhen called Germany,
France and USA.
Fast-fashion brands rip
of young designers work
Americas Forever 21 alone has
been sued over 50 times for
stealing the work of others and
passing it of as its own. And
retail workers at chains like
American Apparel complain
of sexual harassment,
exploitation and other
assorted dodgy practices.
Its a grim picture for an
industry that worships beauty.
But there you have it. High, low, in-
between all levels of fashion have
skeletons in the closet. And only some
of them are the ones draped in silk
and high-stepping down the runways.
Sometimes I fnd fashions wilful
ignorance funny. My favourite
fashion anecdote to tell outsiders
one Im sure sums up the whole
thing on some vast, metaphorical
75
The fashion worlds dark underbelly, in
sweatshops with child workers, poor conditions
and pitiful pay, is all too easy to see
level takes place in my hometown.
Every Autumn, Melbourne hosts the
LOreal Melbourne Fashion Festival.
The weather here is famously
changeable, especially in those
transeasonal days. Sometimes the
festival is freezing, sometimes its
blazing hot. Most events are held in
the citys Docklands area originally
a marshland, then a staging ground
for portside industries like cargo
handling, tanneries and abattoirs
before being revamped as an
inner-city yuppie lifestyle zone.
And when the weathers hot it
still reeks of dead fsh. During
Fashion Week, thousands of
models, journalists, designers
and buyers troop through and Ive
never heard one of them complain
about the smell. Even when their
eyes are nearly watering and the
occasional fy buzzes past.
Theyre too busy being fabulous to
notice the decay around them. Too
intent on chasing the next it thing to
realise that what theyre doing stinks.
Im one of them, so I cant exactly
wash my hands of the whole thing.
But I can tell you, theres something
rotten with the state of fashion.
*Ann Black is the pseudonym of a fashion
insider with more than ten years of experience
in the industry.
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78
HONG KONGS TAI LORS
O
n an inclined street
in the north-west of
Hong Kong Island,
a woman extends
a purple, likely
fake, Nike wallet in need of fxing. The
fabric loop that can be used to hold a
key ring has come undone; all it wants
are a couple of quick, violet stitches.
From his hawker stall, a canopied
box of metal and wood painted in
the usual primary green, the tailor
accepts. The wallet passes briefy
beneath Boon Cheung Luks rusted
sewing machine and the work is done.
The single city block is a close-
packed village of these emerald huts,
every one trading in some service
or good. Cars are not authorised
on this part of the hill, but above
and below the trafc is a force. Luk
perches on a stool in the small space
between the counter and his needled
machine, lean and grinning through
patent exhaustion. His face is lined
with deep creases, his grey trousers
perfectly starched. Like a doctor who
specialises in a feld of medicine, a
tailor must choose his course from
the start: he is either a cutter or a
sewer. Luk is a cutter. Even now, when
on the rare occasion asked, he carves
out mens button-down shirts and
trousers with a pair of heavy scissors,
sending them to local craftsmen to
be stitched. But quality sewers are in
short supply. It is just as well, he says.
I am getting old, too. I dont have the
energy to do so much work.
Fifty-odd years ago, Luk, then 12,
came to Hong Kong by boat from
the nearby Chinese province of
Guangdong. He began as a teenage
apprentice in his cousins workroom,
where, some way into four years of
training, he learned to outft calling
tourists. After a short stint operating
his own tailor shop, he landed in an
atelier in the Central district that
catered to European sailors. He
worked there, cutting the fabric for
elaborate uniforms and eveningwear,
for more than 20 years. The store
closed on New Years Eve, 2000. Luk
moved to his roadside stall the next
day, assuming control from its ill and
retired owner. Eighty per cent of my
customers come with new clothes
that dont ft well or old ones that are
coming apart, says the man who
has spent most of his life dressing
gentlemen in garments made to order.
Until two or three years ago he still
sometimes undertook the laborious
process of creating, from scratch, on
the narrow counter of that stifing
green stand, a suit. Patrons would
choose among the swathes of wool,
cotton and heavy tweed that hang
behind him, trapped in glass. Not
anymore, says Luk. Now theyre just
for decoration.
Hong Kongs esteemed tailoring
trade has, over the past few decades,
been in steady decline. Or, as Luk puts
it: This industry is dying. Soaring
rents and a dwindling demand for all
things tailor-crafted have made it
difcult for all but the most upscale
and illustrious shops to survive. To
cope with labour costs, those smaller,
lesser-known tailors left standing
have generally had to outsource
their work to China. Factories, many
of them in the burgeoning Chinese
border city of Shenzhen, churn out in
24 hours the jobs these Hong Kongers
once took weeks to complete. But it
is nearly impossible to control the
quality of the fnished pieces that
return, which is why some, like Luk,
have chosen to avoid the mainland. I
refuse to ruin my reputation to make
a few extra dollars, he says. Beyond
retirement, the only other option for
these sifus, or technical masters, is to
turn almost entirely to alterations.
Yum Kuen Tsu can recall a time
when tailors shops lined Kings Road
and their foremen regularly enlisted
his skill. But by 1997, the year of
the citys handover from British to
Chinese rule, they had started to
close. The last time I made a shirt
from start to fnish was 10 years
ago, he says from a seat inside his
stand, the only alterations stop in
the neighbourhood. The makeshift
booth, cobbled together from wood
scraps and striped with black and
white paint, clings to the residential
building next door. It is easy to miss.
What began as a lone potted plant has
climbed the wall and burst over the
top of the stall, obscuring it in a ft of
leafy greenery. Tsu, stooped over his
old, black Singer machine, his watch
and two calendars dangling overhead,
is shortening a pair of blue jeans
Soaring rents and a dwindling demand have
made it difficult for all but the most upscale
and illustrious shops to survive
79
YUM KUEN TSU AT WORK IN HIS BOOTH IN CENTRAL HONG KONG
80
HONG KONGS TAI LORS
with an elastic waist. A full-length
mirror tacked to the kiosks facade
invites customers to use the street as
a ftting room. On the rough plank
of one sidewall, an advisory in green
lettering reads: The Moment Which
Is Lost Is Lost Forever.
The work of patching holes, of
letting fabric out and taking fabric in,
is nowhere near as time and material-
consuming as bespoke tailoring. And
it is regular, dependable so long as
people purchase ready-made clothes,
they will need to have them altered.
Tsu is ageing quickly I cant see
clearly anymore, he says, his words
slow and cracked, his legs emaciated
in denim cutofs but these are
tasks he can still well manage. With
earnings of about $13 a day, he is
able to come up with the annual
government fee that occupying such
a stall necessitates. By law, these
outdoor stands can only be registered
in a single name and cannot be passed
on. When Tsu goes, the stand will go,
too. In any case, there is no one in
line to lay claim to it or the trade its
tenant belongs to.
That the youth of Hong Kong have
no interest in inheriting, or
resuscitating, the tailors craft is the
fnal blow. The most recent generation
of apprentices are now in their
mid-50s. Their children, who are
increasingly prolonging their studies,
fnd the pay and the protracted
training that come with the calling
unattractive. In this, Asias economic
and fnancial nerve centre, their aim
is to outft themselves in suits of the
highest calibre not to piece them
together. They dont have our
patience, says Mabel Wu, who for
two decades has owned a workroom
on the seventh foor of an apartment
building in the congested hotel mecca
of Tsim Sha Tsui, a high-rise district
that juts out into the harbour.
At 20, Wu answered a newspaper
ad and came to learn under a Mr
Wong, master of womens apparel.
She stayed on for eight years; for the
frst two she could do nothing but
observe, sweep the foors and answer
the phones. He was so skilled, she
In Hong Kong, young people want to
outfit themselves in suits of the highest calibre,
not piece them together
THE PAINSTAKING NATURE OF THE BUSINESS HAS PUT OFF POTENTIAL NEW RECRUITS
remembers of her teacher, he didnt
even need the help of a paper pattern
in order to cut.
The tailoress sits cross-legged in the
tiny studio, her age belied by a pixie
cut, short gauzy skirt and earrings
like bunches of silvery grapes. In the
corner by the door is her collection of
miniature sewing machines; trinkets
save for one that actually stitches and
doubles as a working phone. Behind a
square cutting table draped in white
cloth are three life-sized machines,
spaced just inches apart, for the
seamstresses who share in her work.
Mostly they perform alterations;
only occasionally will they fashion a
skirt or a blouse. It is hard to imagine
four women in the room at once.
People are set on buying from the
boutique or the internet, Wu says,
even if its more expensive that way.
(Once, she tells, a man brought in two
identical pairs of ill-ftting designer
jeans and asked that they be used
to make a single pair of well-ftting
ones). She is still hoping to pass her
knowledge on to an apprentice, even
though, as she says, there are no
youngsters joining us; they think
it is a useless trade. But Wu wont
advertise for a trainee. Im leaving it
up to fate.
Across the waters of Victoria
Harbour, another dressmaker
contemplates her age. Avon Lo runs
Margaret Court Tailoress in Lan Kwai
Fong, the renowned strip that at night
becomes a haven for inebriated, bar-
hopping tourists (Margaret herself is
retired). Her shop is perhaps the best
known of a fast-diminishing number
with an expertise in womens custom
clothing. But a loyal client base may
not be enough to save it. Old buildings
in the neighbourhood of the kind the
atelier inhabits are being razed at an
unsettling rate to make way for more
watering holes. And every two years,
Los rent shoots up. When it climbs
again in 2012, she may not oblige.
We are getting... old! she sighs.
When you do one thing for so long...
Everyone is tired. We need rest. She
REELS OF THREAD IN AVON
LOS WORKSHOP (ABOVE) AND
(BELOW), SOME OF THE TOOLS
OF THE TRADE
AD
82
HONG KONGS TAI LORS
has been working with the same
few seamstresses for nearly three
decades. They came to Margaret
Court together, 18 years ago.
Lo shufes, small and bespectled,
from one attraction to the next. Here,
swatches of Thai silk and chifon are
purchasable by the metre. There, a
stack of yellowing style books, the
tome at the top is from 1996, flled
with ladies in patterned vests and bold
skirt suits. She pulls from a stufed
plastic folder sheet after sheet of her
own hand drawings sketches done
in blue pen and sometimes stapled to
the magazine images her customers
have asked her to recreate. See this?
Look here! See this? Soon, all of the
jobs done over the past months are
before her, in paper form. Lo shields
the mound with her slight frame to
keep it from toppling. The women who
have worn themselves out with her
are also at work; one marks gold tissue
for cutting with a fragment of blue
chalk. The base rate for an evening
gown of the kind she is crafting, fabric
not included, is $230. A wedding
gown, like the one draped between
the two curtains of an improvised
ftting room, strapless and gossamer
white, is signifcantly more. To lower
prices, they would have to delegate to
mainland factories. And I wont do
that, Lo says.
Neither will the operators of WW
CHAN & SONS, one of the last
To lower prices, they would have to delegate to
the factories in mainland China, which is
something that they will not do
AVON LO WORRIES HIGH RENTS WILL FORCE HER OUT OF HER LOCATION IN THE CITYS CENTRAL DISTRICT
AD
84
HONG KONGS TAI LORS
tailoring establishments in the city
rooted frmly in the Shanghainese
tradition. WW Chan, now 90, was
a pupil of the legendary hongbang
(literally red group) tailors,
so-called, it is said, because the
foreigners they catered to in the
Shanghai of the 1920s and 30s were
often redheaded. Many of those
garment men were natives of Ningbo,
in the eastern coastal province of
Zhejiang, and no small number of
them would eventually fee to Hong
Kong to escape the political turmoil
on the mainland.
A graduate of Chinas earliest
tailoring school, Chan opened a frst
shop in Hong Kong in 1950, relocating
to the second foor of Burlington
House, a high-rise in Tsim Sha Tsui,
15 years later. The place is there still,
insisting on a standard of quality that
only the biggest names can aspire to.
Blocks from Burlington House,
two Indian men jog back and forth,
pursuing potential customers
across Nathan Road, waving fiers
with an urgency. Need a tailor?
Ladies shirts! Cheap suits! Free tie!
Frenzied touts peddling electronics
and plugging restaurants are a
permanent fxture of Kowloon, and
they have not overlooked the tourist
tailoring business. As with every
market they have tried to corner, the
hawkers, typically members of Hong
Kongs large and long-established
South Asian population, trade in
package deals. It is unlikely that the
goods they have made up, mostly in
Shenzhen, ever quite match in calibre
the mens doggedness in chasing
sightseers and shouting prices.
WW CHAN & SONS, on the second
foor of the old, elevatorless building,
is a world apart from the city stirring
THE LAST TIME TSU MADE A SHIRT FROM START TO FINISH WAS 10 YEARS AGO
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AD
86
HONG KONGS TAI LORS
outside. The shop is outftted in the
deep mahogany of a cigar lounge,
its vast countertops fronted by rose
velvet chairs. Tailors cut in the
centre of the elegantly sparse space,
pinning paper patterns to fabric with
marble slabs. Generations of bankers
and lawyers have been fitted here
and asked to admire themselves in
dressing rooms paneled on all sides
with mirrors.
After you go bespoke, if you can
aford it, you never go back, says
general manager Patrick Chu, who
has been with the company for over
20 years. By Shanghainese custom,
every stitch is done by hand save for
the suits main seam. Chu gently lays
out a charcoal jacket of thick wool.
Minute black dashes process over
the lapel and across the borders of
its glossy sapphire lining, every one
a testament to manual labour. Even
the buttonholes, ringed in silk thread,
are the products of nothing but a few
nimble fngers.
In a workshop one fight up, those
fngers are fying. Half of the 20
artisans employed by WW CHAN &
Sons are sewing through the current
shift, just about all of them T-shirted
men between the ages of 50 and 60.
Some stand, some sit on wooden
stools, half-fnished suits of mixed
English and Italian design sleeveless
or lining-less or patterned with white
thread hanging above them. Amid
the clutter of material scraps and
spools of thread, of irons rigged with
slim hoses to suspended water jugs
and the noise of a Cantonese radio
programme, they seem suspended in
time. One is fashioning a small black
pocket. Another is fattening the navy
cloth of a jacket just one takes close
to 60 hours to complete against a
rigid pillow that is meant to simulate
a mans chest.
And in the backroom, a boy in his
20s, almost startling in his youth.
Time starts up again. There is much
to learn, and though he may be alone,
he is there, measuring fabric with a
wooden ruler, ready to receive it.
Hillary Brenhouse is a freelance writer based
in Hong Kong.
ARTISANS IN WW CHAN & SONS WORKSHOP PIECE TOGETHER SUITS
A
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AD
86
HONG KONGS TAI LORS
outside. The shop is outftted in the
deep mahogany of a cigar lounge,
its vast countertops fronted by rose
velvet chairs. Tailors cut in the
centre of the elegantly sparse space,
pinning paper patterns to fabric with
marble slabs. Generations of bankers
and lawyers have been fitted here
and asked to admire themselves in
dressing rooms paneled on all sides
with mirrors.
After you go bespoke, if you can
aford it, you never go back, says
general manager Patrick Chu, who
has been with the company for over
20 years. By Shanghainese custom,
every stitch is done by hand save for
the suits main seam. Chu gently lays
out a charcoal jacket of thick wool.
Minute black dashes process over
the lapel and across the borders of
its glossy sapphire lining, every one
a testament to manual labour. Even
the buttonholes, ringed in silk thread,
are the products of nothing but a few
nimble fngers.
In a workshop one fight up, those
fngers are fying. Half of the 20
artisans employed by WW CHAN &
Sons are sewing through the current
shift, just about all of them T-shirted
men between the ages of 50 and 60.
Some stand, some sit on wooden
stools, half-fnished suits of mixed
English and Italian design sleeveless
or lining-less or patterned with white
thread hanging above them. Amid
the clutter of material scraps and
spools of thread, of irons rigged with
slim hoses to suspended water jugs
and the noise of a Cantonese radio
programme, they seem suspended in
time. One is fashioning a small black
pocket. Another is fattening the navy
cloth of a jacket just one takes close
to 60 hours to complete against a
rigid pillow that is meant to simulate
a mans chest.
And in the backroom, a boy in his
20s, almost startling in his youth.
Time starts up again. There is much
to learn, and though he may be alone,
he is there, measuring fabric with a
wooden ruler, ready to receive it.
Hillary Brenhouse is a freelance writer based
in Hong Kong.
ARTISANS IN WW CHAN & SONS WORKSHOP PIECE TOGETHER SUITS
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JASPER ad Open skies 19.5x26.indd 1 8/14/11 12:24 PM
88
THE 1967 GUIDE TO GETTING
AHEAD IN STYLE, LIFE, LOVE
AND BUSINESS, BY EDITH HEAD
OS07_088-097_BookExtract.indd 88 8/21/11 5:02:21 PM
89
INTRODUCTION
In your search for success, of course, clothes cannot take the
place of the essential qualities needed for that success. Looking
like a super-efcient executive secretary may help you get the
job, but it wont help you punctuate the letters. Looking like a
perfect homemaker may impress the eligible bachelor you invite for
dinner, but it wont disguise the fact that your cofee tastes like mud.
Clothes can make you look the part you want to play, but they
cant replace the ability to play it. So dont make success impossible
by wanting something for which your skills, abilities and talents
are hopelessly inadequate. Dont set your heart on a job or a man
which you cant handle, or cant get. Aim high but keep your
goals achievable.
AD
90
DRESS FOR SUCCESS
Women come in a vast variety of
recognisable basic types: the cute
type, the majestic type, the dainty
type, the boyish type, the clinging-
vine type, the outdoor-girl type, the
sexy type, and many others.
Decide right now which basic
type you are. Ask yourself how big
a part your clothes have played in
making you that type. Would you
rather be a diferent type? Would
you prefer being chic to being cute,
looking dramatic to looking majestic,
appearing more feminine, less
mousey, more striking? What you
wear, more than any other factor, can
improve the type you are or change
your type completely.
Throughout my career I have
used clothes to turn drudges
into princesses, plain Janes into
glamour girls, frumps into fashion
plates. As one of my star friends
insists, If Cinderella had Edith
Head, shed never have needed a
Fairy Godmother.
IN BUSINESS
Success in business means diferent
things to diferent women. To some
women and girls, their business lives
are merely intervals between the time
they leave school and the time they
get married. To them a successful
business career is a short one,
leading not to the front ofce, but
straight to the altar with a golden ring
on the fnger. If you are in this group
we devote [the following] to you. But
in the meantime we suggest you
make the most of your success story
at the office by reading this chapter
too. Who knows, you might marry
the boss!
What you wear for that interview
will also depend to some extent on
the calibre of the job youre after.
It is obvious that if you are being
interviewed for a secretarial position
that pays from $65 to $100 a week,
wearing a $5,000 mink coat or
lavish jewellery will not be good
judgment even if your father is a
millionaire. We talked to numerous
personnel directors, and their
consensus of opinion is that in hiring
young people for secretarial or other
clerical work, they want people that
ft in with the general character of
the organisation and with the other
personnel. Obviously a girl with a
millionaires wardrobe could only
incur envy and animosity among a
group of girls less richly endowed.
The basic elements of any business
womans wardrobe should rely on
this trio: simple casual suits, tailored
C
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adam n eve.pdf 8/22/11 2:20:14 PM
92
DRESS FOR SUCCESS
dresses and good separates (shirts,
blouses, sweaters and other tops).
Before you are interviewed for the
job you want, try on the complete
outft you intend to wear. Look at
yourself in the mirror from every
angle, including sitting down which
is the way you will look most of
the time to the person who will
make the decision. Ask yourself
these questions: (a) Do I look well
groomed? (b) Do I look neat? (c) Do I
feel comfortable and at ease? (d) Does
my skirt ride up too much? (e) Have I
worn too much (or too little) (f) Does
this outft really ft the image of the
position I hope to fll?
We have known instances where
extremely capable women failed
to get a job because they looked too
elegantly put together. One personnel
director confded to us in a specifc
case: "I didnt hire her simply because I
felt anyone that looked that attractive
would have a date every night of the
week and would never be free to stay
until 5.15pm in an emergency."
This doesnt mean that dressing to
get a job should be an effort to make
your self less attractive. It means
you should look your best but
your business best rather than your
beau-catching best.
Vast changes have taken place
in the past 20 years in types of
dressing. Remember when the word
schoolteacher conjured up a vision
of a hard-bitten, fat-chested, fat-
heeled, bespectacled female with
no more sex appeal than a dishpan?
Gone are those days. Schoolteachers
today look as pretty and fashionable
as other businesswomen, but they
dont come into the classroom done up
like ' Sex Goddesses'.
Today men expect this same
kind of authenticity in theatrical
costuming and they expect the
same kind of ftness for the occasion
in everything you wear too. In
Hollywood we call this aspect of
costuming the acceptance look
a good term to have in your own
wardrobe vocabulary.
ON HOW TO DRESS
Again you have to have a specifc goal
in mind. What does getting ahead
mean merely getting a $5 raise
every six months? Or does it mean
moving gradually or quickly up the
ladder to genuine career status? A
private secretary to the president?
A private office of your own? Or
whatever is your goal?
No doubt you will have noticed that
the female executives in your chosen
feld make a point of dressing a little
diferently from the run-of-the-mill
ofce girls. Where the girls in the
What does getting
ahead mean? Ending
up a private secretary
to the president?
AD

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47347_Stoli_elit_Ad_Rocks_195x260.indd 1 01.08.11 14:56
94
DRESS FOR SUCCESS
stenographic pool come into the ofce
in sweaters and skirts, the executive in
charge wears a completely co-ordinated
costume. Where the receptionist may
go to lunch with a scarf over her head
and no gloves, the executive-to-be
wears a smart hat and gloves, if only
to set her apart from the crowd.
She eschews faddy here-today-
gone-tomorrow styles for things that
refect quality and taste. She resists
the desire to have a lot of changes in
her wardrobe in order to concentrate
on fewer, more elegantly fashioned
costumes that do more for here, and
which are not the lookalike wardrobes
of the other girls. She invests in clothes
which are not strikingly diferent but
which are intrinsically fner.
The appearance you make on your
rise to success must be in keeping with
both where you are and where you want
to go. This imposes some hardships
on you, perhaps, in comparison to
the carefree little fle clerk who nobody
sees. She can be stockingless, girdleless,
gloveless, hatless and shiftless with
far less danger than you can. You
have something to live up to: your
future success in the exciting job you
want most.
When you reach the top run its a
diferent story. The eccentricities of
the genius who is top man (or woman)
on the totem pole of tycoonery are not
only condoned but admired.
What you wear when you sit in the
presidents chair is entirely up to you.
At that point you can give this to your
assistant and make notes on what
youll wear as chairman of the board.
There is one rule that must never
be overlooked. It is simply Get
Organised. First, organise your
purchases. Dont be carried away by
that cute little orange dress when you
have no suitable shoes, bag, gloves
or hat to go with it, unless you can
aford a complete set of accessories
for every outft. Work out your colour
schemes carefully before you buy so
that accessories can be interchanged
and every costume you wear presents
a complete picture from head to toe.
Second, organise yourself for
each days activities. It only takes a
few minutes every night, but often
makes the diference between giving
an impression of thrown-together
carelessness or a look of perfection. A
mad scramble in the morning, wildly
pulling things out and dressing like a
house on fre will get you nothing but
high blood pressure. And speaking
of a house on fre, who ever heard of
a freman not laying out his clothes
before he goes to bed? He just jumps
into them and slides down the pole.
You might not be able to match him in
speed, but you can arrive at the ofce
every morning calm, cool, collected
and on time. A good way, by the way,
to keep from being fred.
How do you do it? First, review what
your next days activities are going
to be. Business before pleasure of
course, but consider also your lunch
date, cocktail date and dinner date,
if any. Pick the basic dress or suit or
costume that will work for all three.
Lay out the shoes, handbag, hosiery,
jewellery, gloves everything you
will need for the ofce.
If there is any doubt about how the
costume fts you or the length of the
skirt, try it on to make sure. Its better
to switch the night before than to start
all over in the morning.
If you have after-hours activities on
that day, select something right for the
Your appearance on
the rise to the top must
be in keeping with
where you want to go
94
DRESS FOR SUCCESS
stenographic pool come into the ofce
in sweaters and skirts, the executive in
charge wears a completely co-ordinated
costume. Where the receptionist may
go to lunch with a scarf over her head
and no gloves, the executive-to-be
wears a smart hat and gloves, if only
to set her apart from the crowd.
She eschews faddy here-today-
gone-tomorrow styles for things that
refect quality and taste. She resists
the desire to have a lot of changes in
her wardrobe in order to concentrate
on fewer, more elegantly fashioned
costumes that do more for here, and
which are not the lookalike wardrobes
of the other girls. She invests in clothes
which are not strikingly diferent but
which are intrinsically fner.
The appearance you make on your
rise to success must be in keeping with
both where you are and where you want
to go. This imposes some hardships
on you, perhaps, in comparison to
the carefree little fle clerk who nobody
sees. She can be stockingless, girdleless,
gloveless, hatless and shiftless with
far less danger than you can. You
have something to live up to: your
future success in the exciting job you
want most.
When you reach the top run its a
diferent story. The eccentricities of
the genius who is top man (or woman)
on the totem pole of tycoonery are not
only condoned but admired.
What you wear when you sit in the
presidents chair is entirely up to you.
At that point you can give this to your
assistant and make notes on what
youll wear as chairman of the board.
There is one rule that must never
be overlooked. It is simply Get
Organised. First, organise your
purchases. Dont be carried away by
that cute little orange dress when you
have no suitable shoes, bag, gloves
or hat to go with it, unless you can
aford a complete set of accessories
for every outft. Work out your colour
schemes carefully before you buy so
that accessories can be interchanged
and every costume you wear presents
a complete picture from head to toe.
Second, organise yourself for
each days activities. It only takes a
few minutes every night, but often
makes the diference between giving
an impression of thrown-together
carelessness or a look of perfection. A
mad scramble in the morning, wildly
pulling things out and dressing like a
house on fre will get you nothing but
high blood pressure. And speaking
of a house on fre, who ever heard of
a freman not laying out his clothes
before he goes to bed? He just jumps
into them and slides down the pole.
You might not be able to match him in
speed, but you can arrive at the ofce
every morning calm, cool, collected
and on time. A good way, by the way,
to keep from being fred.
How do you do it? First, review what
your next days activities are going
to be. Business before pleasure of
course, but consider also your lunch
date, cocktail date and dinner date,
if any. Pick the basic dress or suit or
costume that will work for all three.
Lay out the shoes, handbag, hosiery,
jewellery, gloves everything you
will need for the ofce.
If there is any doubt about how the
costume fts you or the length of the
skirt, try it on to make sure. Its better
to switch the night before than to start
all over in the morning.
If you have after-hours activities on
that day, select something right for the
Your appearance on
the rise to the top must
be in keeping with
where you want to go
95
ofce that can be dressed-up for your
date. Its amazing what a softer blouse
and pretty jewellery can do for a simple
suit. Carry with you dressier gloves and
a glamorous cocktail hat, and you have
it made. The extras will all ft neatly
into your hatbox or tote bag, so you can
switch on the glamour after five.
KEEPING A MAN
The contents of this may be a shock
to the woman who feels that the less
she wears in pursuit of a man the
better. To her we can only say that
while the boys ogle and applaud the
charms of Venus Unadorned in art
galleries, night clubs and between
the covers of some magazines, its the
covered girls rather than the Cover
Girls they invariably marry. Man is
a possessive animal by nature and
cares little about sharing his wealth
of wifely treasure with the wolf-pack.
And corny as it may seem in our
free-wheeling society where topless
bathing suits, bottom-revealing pants
and above-the-knee skirts abound,
most men shudder at the thought
of their wives as striptease artists
beyond the masters bedroom, that is.
When you place yourself on the
launching pad, pointed towards
the great adventure of matrimony,
please be realistic and pick a goal
you can reach. Falling in love with
a man so famous, so rich or so
handsome that youre unlikely ever
to meet him is propelling yourself
toward heartbreak. Even if you did
manage to get into orbit with such
a paragon, consider the difculties
of keeping up with him as you fght
of the competition. Look all around
you for a man to marry rather than
star-gazing. Count the available men
you see every day at the ofce, at
church, at the railroad station, at the
skating rink, the country club or the
beach. One of them may be just for
you. Ask yourself if you measure up
to the challenge of attracting him
with what you wear every day.
In spite of the oft-repeated phrase
mouthed by everyones Aunt Tillie that
all men are alike, we urge you to start
on your husband quest by discarding
this notion instantly. The only way
all eligible men are alike (regardless
of size, shape, personality, fnancial
standing) is in their desire to stay in
the lead and to avoid the altar while
being chased by some woman, or more
likely, several. Men, dear reader, are
very much in demand. Statistics prove
(1) women outlive them by at least
three years, leaving a growing residue
of eager widows to add to the already
sizeable population of mate-hungry
women, and (2) there are 3,617,545
more unattached women then men in
the United States (single, separated,
divorced and widowed). In Australia
the picture is in reverse, in case you
want to go there.
THAT FIRST MEETING
Before advising you on how to dress
to get a husband we must, of course,
assume that you already know an
eligible man a man you would like
to marry. We have shed tears over
the laments of girls who spent an
entire years savings at plush resorts
where the huntresses outnumbered
96
DRESS FOR SUCCESS
the quarry ten to one. Our advice to
women is very practical. If you just
cant meet any men in your own
town or city, pack up your vacation
wardrobe and go to a convention hotel.
Pick the convention where youd be
likely to meet the kind of man you
think youd like. Bankers, lawyers,
doctors, dentists, plumbers, printers,
publishers and advertising men all
attend conventions by the hundreds.
If this doesnt appeal to you, you
might try spending your vacation
travelling back and forth on a train or
plane that plies between two points
well traversed by businessmen. For
example, you could take any non-stop
fight between New York, Chicago, Los
Angeles or San Francisco.
But you may say, why would any
man want to meet me? Im far from
beautiful, and just not the type they
turn around to look at. Our answer
is simply that very few women are
sensationally beautiful. If you can
make yourself interesting to look
at and interesting to be with your
attraction to the opposite sex will be
more than satisfactory.
Frequently at parties and premieres
attended by Hollywood stars, visitors
are shocked when they see the wives of
our handsomest flm stars. These men,
who work constantly, with women who
are the epitome of glamour, very often
marry girls who are quite ordinary to
look at. The unknowing are inclined
to comment, How on Earth did she
ever get him? I can tell you, because
I know. She interested him more than
other women.
Its obvious that you cant really
show how interested you are in a man
unless you know something about
him. This is the second step, once
youve met him.
GETTING TO KNOW
HIM
Youve spotted your game now, and
you want to bring him back alive
with an engagement ring in his paw.
Whats the bait that will make him
follow you to the ends of the earth
or propel you down the aisle to the
strains of Lohengrin? Getting to know
him, getting to know all about him, as
one of the lovely songs from the King
And I so aptly put it. Draw him out;
discover his interests, idiosyncrasies,
likes and dislikes. If possible try to
fnd out who his favourite actresses
are in motion pictures, television and
the theatre. This might be the clue
to the type he likes. Ask him why he
likes these stars. Is it the way they
look, the way they talk, the parts they
play? Youll learn a lot about that
man simply by listening. Dont forget
however, that a much too aggressive
attitude and too many pointed
questions might scare him away. Be
interested, not inquisitive.
Now let's consider the first
date inevitable outcome of the
successful meeting. Heres where
what you wear comes into play
even more importantly. If he tells
you exactly where he is taking you,
the solution to the question of what
to wear is quite simple. But suppose
he invites you to have dinner with
him on Saturday night. You cant
ask him where? or how much
money do you plan to spend? This
is the time where good judgement
takes over. If you consider all the
possibilities for dressing for that
first date, you can be perfectly
dressed for almost any eventuality.
This is called playing it safe.
96
DRESS FOR SUCCESS
the quarry ten to one. Our advice to
women is very practical. If you just
cant meet any men in your own
town or city, pack up your vacation
wardrobe and go to a convention hotel.
Pick the convention where youd be
likely to meet the kind of man you
think youd like. Bankers, lawyers,
doctors, dentists, plumbers, printers,
publishers and advertising men all
attend conventions by the hundreds.
If this doesnt appeal to you, you
might try spending your vacation
travelling back and forth on a train or
plane that plies between two points
well traversed by businessmen. For
example, you could take any non-stop
fight between New York, Chicago, Los
Angeles or San Francisco.
But you may say, why would any
man want to meet me? Im far from
beautiful, and just not the type they
turn around to look at. Our answer
is simply that very few women are
sensationally beautiful. If you can
make yourself interesting to look
at and interesting to be with your
attraction to the opposite sex will be
more than satisfactory.
Frequently at parties and premieres
attended by Hollywood stars, visitors
are shocked when they see the wives of
our handsomest flm stars. These men,
who work constantly, with women who
are the epitome of glamour, very often
marry girls who are quite ordinary to
look at. The unknowing are inclined
to comment, How on Earth did she
ever get him? I can tell you, because
I know. She interested him more than
other women.
Its obvious that you cant really
show how interested you are in a man
unless you know something about
him. This is the second step, once
youve met him.
GETTING TO KNOW
HIM
Youve spotted your game now, and
you want to bring him back alive
with an engagement ring in his paw.
Whats the bait that will make him
follow you to the ends of the earth
or propel you down the aisle to the
strains of Lohengrin? Getting to know
him, getting to know all about him, as
one of the lovely songs from the King
And I so aptly put it. Draw him out;
discover his interests, idiosyncrasies,
likes and dislikes. If possible try to
fnd out who his favourite actresses
are in motion pictures, television and
the theatre. This might be the clue
to the type he likes. Ask him why he
likes these stars. Is it the way they
look, the way they talk, the parts they
play? Youll learn a lot about that
man simply by listening. Dont forget
however, that a much too aggressive
attitude and too many pointed
questions might scare him away. Be
interested, not inquisitive.
Now let's consider the first
date inevitable outcome of the
successful meeting. Heres where
what you wear comes into play
even more importantly. If he tells
you exactly where he is taking you,
the solution to the question of what
to wear is quite simple. But suppose
he invites you to have dinner with
him on Saturday night. You cant
ask him where? or how much
money do you plan to spend? This
is the time where good judgement
takes over. If you consider all the
possibilities for dressing for that
first date, you can be perfectly
dressed for almost any eventuality.
This is called playing it safe.
97
But lets face it, a soft dark dress
and a soft pastel suit dont make a
wardrobe. These are the staples that
belong in every womans closet. The
building of the right wardrobe for
every occasion depends on the man.
Men fall into fve categories:
THE SPORTSMAN
If hes a rugged sportsman, women are
taboo on fshing trips, anathema on the
golf course and excess baggage on a
bear hunt. Hes one of the strong men
who likes his women weak. He wants
to pursue his game with the boys and
come home to a little woman who
is waiting, wide-eyed, to hear how
he caught the swordfsh, made
that hole-in-one or stalked that
grizzly. Such men want their
women feminine and the only
pants they want to see you in are
sexy hostess pajamas.
MAN ABOUT TOWN
He is aware of everything thats in,
from the latest discotheque dances
to the hit musical shows. He has read
this months best seller and knows the
head waiter in the best restaurants.
Invariably he is articulate and
entertaining as a conversationalist.
This makes it essential for you to be a
good listener. But dont think you can
get away with dumb, adoring silence
forever. He expects an intelligent
comment once in a while.
THE SHY TYPE
You will recognise him by his quiet,
unassuming manner, his soft-spoken
voice, his solid colour neckties,
defnite opinions and the relaxing
fact that he doesnt proposition you
on your frst date. With this man,
anything overt or obvious in your
actions, conversations or wearing
apparel will send him scurrying back
to the serenity of his lonely pad and all
the trappings of bachelorhood.
THE INTELLECTUAL
What would be the shy mans
chloroform is this mans meat. Hes a
long hair and doesnt mind if you wear
yours down your back. Conservatism
in any form is just plain corn to him,
so dont be square enough to wear
conventional-looking costumes for
his sake. He goes for Pop Art, Op Art,
modern ballets and girls who make
the scene with him can look as kookie
as they wish.
THE EXECUTIVE
Hes the man who has it made. If you
are lucky enough to have latched
onto one of this rare species, work
fast. You can be sure plenty of other
women have a bead on him too. He is
a very definite man. He knows what
he likes and makes fast decisions.
He is neat and well organised and
cant abide sloppy, lazy, disorderly
females. Dont giggle, sit up straight,
and be on time! Well, youve met
your man and landed him. Next step
the honeymoon.
How To Dress For Success is out now on
V&A Publishing. www.vam.ac.uk
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98 98
99
: ? < < ; H ; D J M E H B : I
The former Soviet Embassy, Havana, Cuba, 2009
100
COSMIC CONSTRUCTIONS
C ; ; J ? D = F E ? D J
Institute of Research, Kiev, Ukraine, 2007

I A O M 7 H : I!
The Institute of Robotics and Technical Cybernet-
ics (Architects: S Savin, B Artiushin), Saint Peters-
burg, Russia, 1987.
102
102
103
: ; I E B 7 J ? E D
Monument to the Battle of
Bash-Aparan. (Architects: R Israelyan)
Armenia, 1979.
F E ? D J I E < L ? ; M!
The Ministry of Highways, Tbilisi,
Georgia, 2003.
104
: ; I ? = D I < E H B ? < ;
The Architecture Faculty at the Polytechnic
Institute of Minsk and its succession of
overhanging lecture theatres. (Architects: V
Anikin, I Yesman) Belarus, 1983.
105
104
: ; I ? = D I < E H B ? < ;
The Architecture Faculty at the Polytechnic
Institute of Minsk and its succession of
overhanging lecture theatres. (Architects: V
Anikin, I Yesman) Belarus, 1983.
105
106
106
B 7 A ; F B 7 9 ? :
Crematorium (Architect: A Miletski)
Kiev, Ukraine, 1985.
9 ? H 9 K B 7 H J > ? D A ? D =!
The Druzhba sanatorium (Architect:
I Vasilevsky, Y Stefanchuk) Yalta,
Ukraine, 1985.
Cosmic Communist Constructions
Photographed by Frederic Chaubin,
$58, is published
by TASCHEN and
is available at
www.taschen.com
109
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110
EMIRATES NEWS
ROME & KL
NEXT UP
FOR A380
EMIRATES HAS ANNOUNCED THAT
Rome and Kuala Lumpur will
be the next destinations for its
fagship A380.
As of December 1, the double-
decker superjumbo will make
daily fights to the Italian city,
and will be the frst A380 service
to fy to Malaysias capital city.
These new destinations
follow on from the A380s
continued expansion, which
sees flights to Johannesburg
as of October 1 this year and
Munich from January 1 2012.
EMIRATES HAS OPENED ITS SECOND DEDICATED
First Class Lounge at Dubai International
Airport. The lounge has been kitted out with
plush leather armchairs, two dining areas,
shower facilities, wireless LAN connectivity
and a quiet zone. Located on Concourse 1, it
will facilitate easy and seamless travel for
First Class passengers departing from any
of the 14 gates located on the concourse.
NEW
FIRST
CLASS
LOUNGE
OS07_110-110_EKNews.indd 110 8/21/11 4:27:54 PM
Managed by VAMED and Collaboration with
Medical University of Vienna International
Member of Association of
Private Hospitals of Malaysia
Halal certification for
Food & Beverage Category
Member of Medical
Tourism Association

Services -
ONCOLOGY HEART & LUNG WOMEN & CHILDREN PLASTIC RECONSTRUCTIVE, DERMATOLOGY & BURNS CENTRE UROLOGY, NEPHROLOGY, MENS HEALTH AND WELLNESS EMERGENCY ROOM
EXECUTIVE HEALTH SCREENING RADIOLOGY & NUCLEAR MEDICINE DIGESTIVE DISEASE UNIT PHYSICAL & REHABILITATION MEDICINE LIFESTYLE MODIFICATION CENTRE PATHOLOGY
MEDICAL SPECIALTIES SURGICAL SPECIALTIES
. . .
. . . .
. .
Malaysian Society For Quality
in healthcare 2010
Joint Commission
International Accreditation
2008
Winner Best Brands
Wellness Hospital 2009 - 2010
Asian Society for Quality
in Healthcare
Frost & Sullivan
Healthcare Services Provider
of the Year 2010
.
Prince Court Medical Centre 39 Jalan Kia Peng 50450 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Tel: +(60)3 2160 0000
Direct line: +(60)3 2160 0124 Fax: +(60)3 2160 0010
. .
. .
24 Hours Toll FREE :1-800-88-PCMC
email: ibl@princecourt.com
website: www.princecourt.com
About Malaysia
Geographically, Malaysia is as diverse as its culture. From cool hideaways in the highlands to
warm, sandy beaches and rich humid mangroves, the capital city of Kuala Lumpur also offers
a lively nightlife scene and a fascinating art and performance culture, which blends contem-
porary and traditional styles from many backgrounds. One of Malaysia's key attractions is its
extreme contrasts. Towering skyscrapers look down upon traditional wooden houses built on
stilts, and five-star hotels sit several meters away from ancient reefs.
About Prince Court Medical Centre
Prince Court Medical Centre is a 300 bed private medical facility located in the heart of Kuala
Lumpur. Born of a Malaysian vision to be the forerunner in the provision of clinical services
and patient care delivery, we are internationally accredited by Joint Commission Interna-
tional (JCI). We aim to be the leading healthcare provider in Asia. We provide a comprehensive
range of family-centred healthcare services.
International Business Lounge
Prince Court Medical Centre is fast becoming a hospital of choice for our international
patients. Over the years, we have seen a steady increase in patients coming from all over the
world. Our International Business Center is specifically designed to ensure all the needs of our
international patients are met. A dedicated team has been appointed to respond to requests,
co-ordinate with agents, arrange the admission and discharge of patients and follow up
post-discharge to ensure our services are of the highest possible standards. Services for
interpreters and visa extension can also be arranged on the patients behalf.
We are here for you
Its difficult to decide when it comes to your health as there can be no compromise. Latest
technology and modern procedure will save your life but it cant bring a human touch to your
heart. You may see us as just another hospital that provides services for you and loved ones.
You may also see us as just another hospital that only invests latest technology.
This is where Prince Court Medical Centre is different from the rest. We invest in the latest
technology so you can be assured of the best result. We incorporate our Asian hospitality to
ensure you and loved ones feel at home in a foreign land.
112
EMIRATES NEWS FEATURE
A SIX-COURSE MEAL WITH A RANGE
of mezze, canaps and wines may
sound like a feast for a special
occasion, but as of last month it
is simply the norm when fying
Emirates premium classes.
On August 1, Emirates relaunched
its new premium dining service for
First Class and Business Class.
Refurbished and equipped with
bespoke Royal Doulton crockery
made from bone china and Robert
Welsh cutlery designed exclusively
for Emirates, this is a serious
statement of luxury.
We wanted to ensure we have fair
and restaurant culture in the fying
experience, explains Robin Padgett,
Vice-President of Aircraft Catering
for Emirates.
The idea was to completely
redefne what Business Class
dining on Emirates meant for our
customers, and for that we went
back to the basics, says Padgett.
We had to establish what type of
restaurant service we wanted. If
First Class was a Dine on Demand
fne-dining service, then we wanted
Business Class to be more of a
bistro-style service.
A quick look over the Dubai-to-
Sydney menu sees meals such as
grilled tenderloin steak and seafood
biryani on ofer, as well as the new
additions of a soup service and a
light bites menu that ofers
comfort foods (a beef steak pie or
Thai chicken skewers) should you
want a little something if you are
feeling peckish.
When establishing the new service,
the rule of thumb was would you
get this in a restaurant? Padgett
says that this was applied to every
decision taken.
In a restaurant, they dont have
trolleys so we stopped using
them, and now the service is done
with restaurant style trays. In fne
dining restaurants they have elegant
glasses so we have replaced
traditional airline style with stylish
restaurant glassware.
In First Class, the emphasis was
less on revolutionising the dining
service, and more on tweaking it in
order to ensure it retained the highest
quality bespoke service. We wanted
to refne the service and make sure
that whilst you are tucking into your
chicken consomm or caviar, you
know you are in First Class a frst
rate fne dining experience with all
the bells and whistles, says Padgett.
Emirates varies its menu depending
on its routes. We have fve highly
experienced chefs who take a lot of
time devising menus, says Padgett.
We design as far as we can down
to specifc cities. In some countries,
such as the UK, there arent huge
regional diferences, but it is a lot
more accented in India for example.
The diference between Hyderabad
and Delhi is massive, so we can
design destination specifc menus.
It is by combining the use of this
regional knowledge with a restaurant
mind-set that is making premium
dining on Emirates one of the most
sought-after tables in the sky.
The Best
Table in
the Sky
With bespoke cutlery and fine bone china,
this is a serious statement of luxury
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114
EMIRATES NEWS GREEN
TREES PLANTED AT WOLGAN VALLEY
RESORT AND SPA
175,000
3.3mil
KGS OF ONBOARD WASTE RECYCLED BY
EMIRATES IN 20102011
114
LEADING
THE WAY
CONCERNS OVER CARBON EMISSIONS
have long been issues in the
aviation industry. Investing in ways
to reduce environmental impact
has become paramount for airlines
such as Emirates.
Emirates 2010-11 Environmental
Report shows its fuel and CO2
efciency level is 26 per cent better
than the global airline average.
With more than 90 per cent of its
environmental impact
coming from its feet,
this is a highly
signifcant fgure.
The report also
coincided with
two test fights
of a new fexible
routing initiative
called the INSPIRE
programme. Results
from the test fights (from Dubai to
Brisbane, and from Perth to Dubai)
showed that over 6,250 litres of fuels
could be saved, as well as 16,000kg
of CO2 emissions, if aircraft are
allowed to follow fexible fight paths
over the Indian Ocean. Emirates
long-haul fights to Australia are
a frequent route with 63 weekly
fights. Flexible routing will save
2.47 million litres of fuel and 6,850
tonnes of CO2 in 2011. Emirates
takes its commitment to
the environment very
seriously and strives to
be an industry innovator
and leader in feet
eco-efciency said
Andrew Parker, Senior
Vice-President, Public,
Industry, International and
Environmental Afairs.
MOBILE SHOPPER
This smartphone app
works as a guide to green
and ethical shopping. It
has a database of more
than 120,000 products
and by scanning a
products barcode it will
reveal the companys
environmental history.
7 BILLION
The United Nations has
recently announced that
the worlds population
will reach 7 billion by
October. According to the
UN Population Division,
there are already 1 billion
more people alive than in
October 1999.
The US jet-
manufacturer, Boeing,
has completed the
first trans-atlantic
flight of a large
commercial aircraft
powered solely by
sustainable aviation
jet-fuel blend. The
747-8 freighter
flew from Everett,
Washington to Paris
Le Bourget Airport,
using a 15% blend
of camelina-based
biofuel combined with
traditional kerosene jet
fuel in all four engines.
TEN AIRLINES HAVE PLEDGED TO INVEST
in the development of biomass-
derived jet-fuel.
The ten carriers have committed
to buying fuel made exclusively
from post-recycled urban and
agricultural waste, as of when the
biofuel plant is built in 2013.
The plant, that is to be built by
biofuel producers Solena Fuels,
is expected to produce 16 million
gallons of jet fuel, recycling 550,000
tonnes of waste from landflls. By
2015 the fuel output, which is likely
to be a 50/50 blend of biofuel and
petroleum, is expected to support
operations at three airports.
This latest announcement
shows the growing trend of airline
companies researching alternative
means of jet fuel. Rising fuel
prices have caused carriers to start
looking into alternative means of
reducing their costs.
AIRLINES LOOK TO
ALTERNATIVE FUEL
5
0
%

THE AVIATION
INDUSTRYS TARGET TO
REDUCE ITS
CARBON EMISSIONS
BY
SOURCE: WWW.ENVIRO.AERO
SOURCE: EMIRATES
SOURCE: EMIRATES
TRANS-ATLANTIC BIOFUEL CROSSING
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A population of 74 million, half of which is under
the age of 29
Approximately 500,000 students graduate annually
from more than 150 universities
Around 26 million young, well-educated and motivated
labor force
Highly competitive investment conditions
A country with unique R&D incentives and tax deductions
Access to Europe, Caucasus, Central Asia, the Middle
East and North Africa
17
th
largest economy in the world (IMF-WEO, 2010)
15
th
most attractive FDI destination for 2008-2010
(UNCTAD World Investment Prospects Survey)
Fastest growing economy in the world with an impressive
GDP growth rate of 11% in the first quarter of 2011
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Today, Turkey is one of our best performing markets not only in
terms of sales and market penetration, but in terms of profitability
as well. Turkey is an exciting place for business with a great potential
and we are optimistic about the future of the country.
Count Anton-Wolfgang von FABER-CASTELL, Chairman & CEO
SMART TRAVELLER
REHYDRATE WITH WATER OR JUICES FREQUENTLY.
DRINK TEA AND COFFEE IN MODERATION.
LOOSEN CLOTHING, REMOVE JACKET AND
AVOID ANYTHING PRESSING AGAINST YOUR BODY.
CARRY ONLY THE ESSENTI AL I TEMS THAT
YOU WILL NEED DURING YOUR FLIGHT.
EXERCISE YOUR LOWER LEGS AND CALF
MUSCLES. THIS ENCOURAGES BLOOD FLOW.
APPLY A GOOD QUALI TY MOISTURISER TO
ENSURE YOUR SKIN DOESNT DRY OUT.
CABIN AIR IS DRIER THAN NORMAL THEREFORE
SWAP YOUR CONTACT LENSES FOR GLASSES.
TO HELP YOU ARRIVE AT YOUR
destination feeling relaxed and
refreshed, Emirates has developed
this collection of helpful travel tips.
Regardless of whether you need to
rejuvenate for your holiday or be
efective at achieving your goals on
a business trip, these simple tips will
help you to enjoy your journey and
time on board with Emirates today.
IN THE AIR
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY
CONSULT YOUR DOCTOR BEFORE
TRAVELLING IF YOU HAVE ANY
MEDICAL CONCERNS ABOUT
MAKING A LONG JOURNEY, OR IF YOU
SUFFER FROM A RESPIRATORY OR
CARDIOVASCULAR CONDITION.
PLAN FOR THE DESTINATION WILL
YOU NEED ANY VACCINATIONS OR
SPECIAL MEDICATIONS?
GET A GOOD NIGHTS REST BEFORE
THE FLIGHT.
EAT LIGHTLY AND SENSIBLY.
AT THE AI RPORT
ALLOW YOURSELF PLENTY OF TIME
FOR CHECKIN.
AVOID CARRYING HEAVY BAGS
THROUGH THE AIRPORT AND ONTO
THE FLIGHT AS THIS CAN PLACE THE
BODY UNDER CONSIDERABLE STRESS.
ONCE THROUGH TO DEPARTURES TRY
AND RELAX AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.
DURING THE FLIGHT
SUCKING AND SWALLOWING WILL
HELP EQUALISE YOUR EAR PRESSURE
DURING ASCENT AND DESCENT.
BABIES AND YOUNG PASSENGERS
MAY SUFFER MORE ACUTELY
WITH POPPING EARS, THEREFORE
CONSIDER PROVIDING A DUMMY.
GET AS COMFORTABLE AS
POSSIBLE WHEN RESTING AND
TURN FREQUENTLY.
AVOID SLEEPING FOR LONG PERIODS
IN THE SAME POSITION.
WHEN YOU ARRIVE
TRY SOME LIGHT EXERCISE OR READ
IF YOU CANT SLEEP AFTER ARRIVAL.
DRINK
PLENTY
OF WATER
MAKE
YOURSELF
COMFORTABLE
WEAR
GLASSES
TRAVEL
LIGHTLY
KEEP
MOVING
USE SKIN
MOISTURISER
EMIRATES NEWS
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EMIRATES NEWS
118
All passengers arriving into the
US need to complete a CUSTOMS
DECLARATION FORM. If you are travelling
as a family this should be completed
by one member only. The form must be
completed in English, in capital letters,
and must be signed where indicated.
The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival
/ Departure Record) should be
completed if you are a non-US citizen
in possession of a valid US visa and
your fnal destination is the US or
if you are in transit to a country
outside the US. A separate form
must be completed for each person,
including children travelling on their
parents passport. The form includes a
Departure Record which must be kept
safe and given to your airline when you
leave the US.
If you hold a US or Canadian
passport, US Alien Resident Visa
(Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a
valid ESTA (right), you are not required
to complete an immigration form.
TO US CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION FORMS
CA
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WHETHER YOURE TRAVELLING TO, OR THROUGH, THE UNITED
States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs
and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey
is as hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will ofer you two
forms when you are nearing your destination. We provide
guidelines below, so you can correctly complete the forms.
CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM IMMIGRATION FORM
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EMIRATES NEWS
118
All passengers arriving into the
US need to complete a CUSTOMS
DECLARATION FORM. If you are travelling
as a family this should be completed
by one member only. The form must be
completed in English, in capital letters,
and must be signed where indicated.
The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival
/ Departure Record) should be
completed if you are a non-US citizen
in possession of a valid US visa and
your fnal destination is the US or
if you are in transit to a country
outside the US. A separate form
must be completed for each person,
including children travelling on their
parents passport. The form includes a
Departure Record which must be kept
safe and given to your airline when you
leave the US.
If you hold a US or Canadian
passport, US Alien Resident Visa
(Green Card), US Immigrant Visa or a
valid ESTA (right), you are not required
to complete an immigration form.
TO US CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION FORMS
CA
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IF Y
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WHETHER YOURE TRAVELLING TO, OR THROUGH, THE UNITED
States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs
and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey
is as hassle free as possible. The Cabin Crew will ofer you two
forms when you are nearing your destination. We provide
guidelines below, so you can correctly complete the forms.
CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM IMMIGRATION FORM
119
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430
THE TOTAL SIZE OF THE BUILT UP AREA IN FOOTBALL PITCHES OF THE
DEPARTURES AREA IN TERMINAL :
THE NUMBER OF STAFF IN THE KITCHEN OF THE EMIRATES FLIGHT
CATERING CENTRE AT ANY ONE TIME:
AD
80 mm wide x
224 mm high
ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR
TRAVEL AUTHORISATION (ESTA)
IF YOU ARE AN INTERNATIONAL
TRAVELLER WISHING TO ENTER
THE UNITED STATES UNDER THE
VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME,
YOU MUST APPLY FOR
ELECTRONIC AUTHORISATION
ESTA UP TO HOURS PRIOR
TO YOUR DEPARTURE.
ESTA FACTS:
CHILDREN AND
INFANTS REQUIRE AN
INDIVIDUAL ESTA.
THE ONLINE ESTA SYSTEM
WILL INFORM YOU WHETHER
YOUR APPLICATION HAS BEEN
AUTHORISED, NOT AUTHORISED
OR IF AUTHORISATION
IS PENDING.
A SUCCESSFUL ESTA
APPLICATION IS VALID
FOR TWO YEARS, HOWEVER
THIS MAY BE REVOKED OR
WILL EXPIRE ALONG WITH
YOUR PASSPORT.
APPLY ONLINE AT WWW.CBP.GOV/ESTA
NATIONALITIES ELIGIBLE
FOR THE VISA WAIVER
*
:
ANDORRA, AUSTRALIA,
AUSTRIA, BELGIUM, BRUNEI,
CZECH REPUBLIC, DENMARK,
ESTONIA, FINLAND, FRANCE,
GERMANY, HUNGARY, ICELAND,
IRELAND, ITALY, JAPAN, LATVIA,
LIECHTENSTEIN, LITHUANIA,
LUXEMBURG, MALTA, MONACO,
THE NETHERLANDS, NEW
ZEALAND, NORWAY, PORTUGAL,
SAN MARINO, SINGAPORE,
SLOVAKIA, SLOVENIA, SOUTH
KOREA, SPAIN, SWEDEN,
SWITZERLAND AND THE
UNITED KINGDOM**.
* SUBJECT TO CHANGE
** ONLY BRITISH CITIZENS QUALIFY
UNDER THE VISA WAIVER PROGRAMME.
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For more information: www.emirates.com/ourf leet
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CARGO
PLA
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For more information: www.emirates.com/ourf leet
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173 x 100 mm
126
EMIRATES NEWS FLEET GUI DE EMIRATES NEWS FLEET GUI DE
Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-300ER Number of Aircraft: 58 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 3 Range 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
126
EMIRATES NEWS FLEET GUI DE EMIRATES NEWS FLEET GUI DE
Boeing 777-300 Number of Aircraft: 12 Capacity: 364 Range: 11,029km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777-200LR Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 266 Range: 17,446km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-300ER Number of Aircraft: 58 Capacity: 354-442 Range: 14,594km Length: 73.9m Wingspan: 64.8m
Boeing 777-200 Number of Aircraft: 9 Capacity: 274-346 Range: 9,649km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 60.9m
Boeing 777F Number of Aircraft: 3 Range 9,260km Length: 63.7m Wingspan: 64.8m
127
Airbus A340-300 Number of Aircraft: 8 Capacity: 267 Range: 13,350km Length: 63.6m Wingspan: 60.3m
Airbus A380-800 Number of Aircraft: 16 Capacity: 489-517 Range: 15,000km Length: 72.7m Wingspan: 79.8m
Airbus A340-500 Number of Aircraft: 10 Capacity: 258 Range: 16,050km Length: 67.9m Wingspan: 63.4m
Airbus A330-200 Number of Aircraft: 27 Capacity: 237-278 Range: 12,200km Length: 58.8m Wingspan: 60.3m
Boeing 747-400F/747-ERF Number of Aircraft: 4/2 Range 8,232km/9,204km Length: 70.6m Wingspan: 64.4m
128
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N
ext month is our Adventure issue and
we will be climbing, exploring, inventing,
dangling, trekking and generally
enjoying ourselves as we take a walk on the wild side.
We feature one of the best (and funniest) adventure
books ever written and explore the mysterious side
of Yemens enchanting capital, Sanaa. Our movie
expert casts his eye over the adventure genre,
while we map one of Emirates newest routes:
Copenhagen. We also chronicle the life of one of the
worlds greatest ever explorers. So sit back, buckle
up, and enjoy the ride.
n
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224 mm high
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Open Skies - September 2011

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elit luxury vodka 40% Alc/Vol. Distilled from grain. 2011

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