ENGINE TUNE-UP a. Testing Cylinder Compression Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached.

Remove all spark plugs. Set the throttle to wide open position and leave it open for the test. Crank the engine with the starter and test the compression of each cylinder with a compression gauge. The compression of all cylinders should be uniform within 15 pounds. A reading of more than 15 pounds above normal indicates carbon or lead deposits in cylinder. A reading below normal indicates leakage at the rings, valves, or gaskets. b. Tighten Cylinder Head and Manifold Compression leaks may be stoped by tightening cylinder head nuts or bolts, providing the heads are not warped and the head gasket is in good condition. Tighten cylinder head nuts to 50-60 foot-pounds torque. Tighten the intake and exhaust manifold bolts and nuts to 25-30 foot-pounds torque. c. Clean, Adjust, and Install Spark Plugs Sandblast the spark plugs, wipe the porcelain clean, file the electrode tips lightly and adjust the spark gap to 0.025. Using a 14 mm spark plug socket, tighten the plug to 24-30 foot-pound torque. d. Clean and Inspect Battery Cables Remove the cables from the battery. Clean the battery terminals and cable connectors. After connecting cables to the battery, cover the terminals and connectors with a film of petrolatum to retard further corosion. e. Test Generating System Have the battery tested. If the battery was low in charge, have the generator and regulator tested. f. Clean and Test Distributer Clean grease and dirt from the distributor housing, distributor caps, and ignition wires. Have the distributor advance tested. g. Time Ignition Check the initial timing with a distributor timing fixture.(4o B.T.C.); Total Advance 17-19o (See "I. Road Test") h. Test Spark Intensity A quick check on spark intensity can be made with the engine idling. Disconnect one spark plug lead at a time and hold it 3/16 inch from the cylinder head. If the spark jumps this gap regularly, it is satisfactory. If unsatisfactory at all spark plugs, trouble exists in the coil, condenser, rotor, internally in the distributor or the external primary circuit. If unsatisfactory at some but not all spark plugs, trouble exists with the plug wires. i. Check Manifold Vacuum

Check the manifold vacuum with a vacuum gauge. The vacuum should be 18-21 inches (of mercury) with the engine idling. j. Clean and Test Fuel Pump Remove and clean the fuel pump sediment bowl. Test the fuel pump pressure and vacuum. The pressure for a V8 should be 3.5 to 4.5 p.s.i. The vacuum should be 10 inches (of mercury). A general check of the pump condition can be made by measuring the amount of fuel it will deliver in a definite period of time. At idle speed, the pump should displace one pint in 45 seconds or less.

k. Clean and Adjust Carburetor Wipe off dust and dirt from carburetor. For "Dry-Type" air cleaners, wash filter element in kerosine. Re-oil the element with engine oil. For" Oil-Bath" air cleaners, clean the oil sump and refill to the level mark with engine oil. DO NOT ALLOW THE FELT PAD TO GET OILY. Adjust engine idle speed to 475-500 r.p.m. Adjust the idle mixture screw in until the engine starts to miss, then back the screw out until it runs smoothly. The "97" carburetor has two idle mixture screws. Both must be adjusted to balance the engine at idle speed. l. Road Test After the tune-up is complete, road test the vehicle by accelerating rapidly several times on the highway. If the eingine "pings", tighten the vacuum brake on the distributor until the "ping" disappears. Engine firing order: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2 Breaker Point Spacing: 0.014-0.016 in. Breaker Point Spring Tension: 20-24 oz. Condenser Capacity: 0.29-0.32 mfd. Battery Capacity: 100 amp. Generator: 6 volt 30 amp. Oil Pan bolts 15-18 foot-pounds torque. Fuel Pump push rod length: >8.870 in.