RoughGuide之雅典

Athens
DIRECTIONS
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
John Fisher and

Paul Hellander
NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

www.roughguides.com
2
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Contents
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill ................102
Introduction 4
CONTENTS
Skndagma and around ..................112
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki............117
Suburban Athens............................123
Ideas 9 Attica ............................................133
Further Afield ................................140
The big six ......................................10
Acropolis ..........................................12
Classical Athens ..............................14
Roman Athens..................................16
Accommodation 153
Byzantine Athens..............................18 Hotels ............................................155
National Archeological Museum ......20 Hostels ..........................................162
Cultural museums ............................22 Campsites ......................................162
Modern Athens ................................24
Hills and views ................................26
Green Athens....................................28 Essentials 163
Restaurants and tavernas ................30
Cafés and bars ................................32 Arrival ............................................165
Music and entertainment..................34 City transport ................................166
Nightlife ..........................................36 Information ....................................168
Markets and shopping......................38 Directory ........................................169
Orthodox Athens ..............................40
Athens on foot..................................42
Seaside Athens and Language 173
island escapes ..............................44 Basics ............................................175
Out of Athens ..................................46 Menu reader ..................................180
Places 49 Index 183

The Acropolis ..................................51
Pláka................................................61
Monastiráki and Psyrrí......................70 Colour Maps
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona........80
Platía Omónias and around ..............88 Athens
The Archeological Museum, Central Athens
Exárhia and Neápoli ......................95 Athens Metro
4
Introduction to
Athens
INTRODUCTION
In most minds, Athens is a city that happened two-

and-a-half thousand years ago, and it’s true that
even now that past looms large – literally, in the
shape of the mighty Acropolis that dominates almost
every view, as well as in every visitor’s itinerary. Yet
Athens is also home to over four million people, more
than a third of the Greek population and is very
much a city for the twenty-first century, one that has
transformed itself for the 2004 Olympics.
For many, the stunning

remains of the ancient
Classical Greek city are the
highlight of any visit.The
National Archeological
Museum has the finest col-
lection of Greek antiquities
in the world, and there are
plenty of smaller specialist repository of ancient sites
museums. Even on a brief and museum pieces. It’s
visit, however, it is a shame worth taking the time to
to see Athens purely as the explore some of the city’s
When to visit
Athens is at its most agreeable outside the peak period of early July to the
end of August, when soaring temperatures (sometimes over
40°C), plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can be
overpowering. Perhaps the best months to visit are May to
early June, September and October – temperatures are
pleasant (20°C and upwards), and visitors fewer. In
April you can also see lovely displays of spring flowers
on the surrounding mountains. The winter months can
be very cold, and February is often rainy.
Contents Introduction
5
쒀 Byzantine
INTRODUCTION
Mosaic
neighbourhoods: in partic- There are spectacular

ular, the old nineteenth- bird’s-eye views from the
century quarter of Pláka central hills of Lykavitós
has a delightful mix of and Filopáppou, while
Turkish, Neoclassical and more adventurous walkers
Greek island-style architec- can head for the moun-
ture and intriguing little tains that ring the city.
museums devoted to tradi- Springtime hikes here
tional arts, from ceramics reveal the astonishing
to musical instruments. range of Greek wild flow-
Here you’ll also encounter ers – especially on the vast,
scattered relics of the largely unspoilt slopes of
Byzantine and medieval Mount Párnitha.
town that captivated Byron Outside the city itself
and the Romantics. Just to you’ll find more ancient
the north of Pláka, the sites, while sun-worship-
bazaar area around Athinás pers flock to the suburban
and Eólou retains an beach resorts.There’s the
almost Middle Eastern chance to escape to the
atmosphere, while the islands, too, several of
National Gardens and ele- which can be reached from
gant Kolonáki offer respite the busy port of Pireás in
from the bustling city. Still just a couple of hours.
well within the limits of For some, however, the
Greater Athens are the biggest surprise in Athens is
peaceful monasteries of the vibrant life of the city
Kessarianí and Dhafní, the itself. Cafés are packed day
latter with Byzantine and night, and the streets
mosaics the equal of any in stay lively until 3 or 4am,
Greece. with some of the best bars
6
쑽 Neoclassical
and clubs in
the country.
Eating out is
INTRODUCTION
great, with
statue
establishments
ranging from
lively tavernas
to the finest
gourmet
restaurants. In
summer
much of the
action takes
place out-
doors, com-
plemented by
open-air
films, concerts
and classical
drama.The
extraordinari-
ly diverse
shopping
scene ranges
from colour-
ful bazaars and lively street system – particularly the
markets to chic shopping newly expanded metro –
malls filled with the latest you’ll have no difficulty
designer goods. And with a getting around.
good-value public transport
쑽 Kolonáki
7
 ATHENS AT A GLANCE
INTRODUCTION
The Acropolis
쒀 National
The Acropolis remains the city’s

biggest attraction. Dominating its
southern slope is the restored
Archeological museum
second-century Roman Herodes

Atticus Theatre, a spectacular set-
ting for performances of music
and Classical drama during the
summer festival.
쑽
Pláka Street
The National Archeological
Museum
By far the most important mus-
eum in Athens, the National
Archeological Museum houses the
world’s greatest collection of
Cycladic, Minoan, Mycenaean and
Classical Greek art.
Kolonáki
For fashionable shopping,
Kolonáki is the city’s most chic
central district. Should you tire of Pláka
hunting for the latest designer The largely pedestrianized area of
gear, you’ll find some great pave- Pláka, with its narrow lanes and
ment cafés and restaurants – or stepped alleys climbing towards
come here at night for the bars the Acropolis, is perhaps the most
and buzzing live music venues. attractive part of Athens. It’s
쑽
Herodes Atticus Theatre
8
쑽
Delphi
INTRODUCTION
touristy, but full of atmosphere and nities for eating, drinking and
the city’s best for idle wandering. above all shopping – from flea mar-
kets to upmarket designer shops.
Cape Soúnio Often busy and noisy, you’ll still
Cape Soúnio’s dramatic setting find the occasional quiet oasis in
overlooking the Aegean has made it the high-rise urban surroundings.
a landmark for centuries to boats
sailing between Pireás and the Delphi
islands. Its tremendous views and Set amongst the massive crags of
evocative Temple of Poseidon cer- Mount Parnassós, Delphi is the
tainly impressed Byron – who carved site of the most important oracle in
his name on one of the pillars. ancient Greece. Today, its awe-
inspiring ruins and spectacular
Monastiráki setting make it one of the most
While less touristy than Pláka, memorable excursions from
Monastiráki still has great opportu- Athens.
쑽
Monastiráki
Ideas
Contents Ideas
10
The big six
Athens is still
defined above all by
the brief period of
glory it enjoyed in
the fifth century BC
– the Golden Age of
Classical Athens.
The signature image
of the city, and an
absolute must-see, is the National Archeological
rocky hill of the Acropolis, Museum
The gold Mask of Agamemnon from
topped by the Parthenon. Mycenae is the biggest crowd-puller in
Athens’ premier museum.
Smaller, lesser-known
쑺 P.96 쑺 THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL
ancient sites are scattered MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
throughout the city centre.
The city’s Archeological
Museum, too, is one of the
world’s greatest, with
treasures not just from
Athens but from all the
cultures of ancient Greece.
The modern city is not
always beautiful, but it is
enjoyable, with its buzzing
outdoor restaurants and
cafés, great nightlife, and
easy access to a
spectacular coastline.
Lykavitós Hill
Climb Lykavitós Hill – or take the funicu-
lar – for spectacular views of the city,
including the Acropolis.
쑺 P.104 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쒀
Contents Ideas
11
Acropolis Tower of the Winds

Crowned by the Parthenon, and surrounded On the site of the Roman Forum, the
by the major relics of ancient Athens, the intriguing and well-preserved Tower of the
Acropolis is one of the archetypal images of Winds is compass, weather vane, sundial
Western civilization. and water-clock in one.
쑺 P.51 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀 쑺 P.71 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽
Temple of Poseidon
Dominating Cape Sounío, the Temple of
Poseidon commands magnificent views of
the seas and islands around Athens.
쑺 P.133 쑺 ATTICA 쑽
Street life
In summer, life in Athens moves on to the
streets, terraces and roof gardens. Dining or
drinking al fresco, with the Acropolis as back-
drop, can be an unforgettable experience.
쑺 P.85 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Contents Ideas
12
Acropolis
Exploring the
Acropolis and its
surrounds can easily
absorb an entire
day. While the
Parthenon is the
most imposing of
the remains atop the
steep-sided hill, it’s far
from the only one; the
Acropolis has an
extraordinary concentration
of superlative Classical
architecture, all of it dating
from just a few decades at
the height of ancient
Athenian democracy. The
Acropolis Museum houses
many of the treasures from
the site and hopes one day
The Erectheion
to complete its collection The most sacred of the ancient temples
with the returned and a superb example of Ionic architec-
ture, the Erectheion’s south porch is sup-
Parthenon Marbles. ported by six larger-than-life maidens –
the Caryatids.
쑺 P.56 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쒀
The Parthenon Marbles

Part of the pediment of the Parthenon has
been reconstructed in the Acropolis
Museum – although the Elgin Marbles
remain in the British Museum, despite a
long Greek campaign to reclaim them.
쑺 P.56 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쑽
Contents Ideas
13
The Propylaia
The imposing entrance to the Acropolis now
as in Classical times, the Propylaia were
considered by ancient Athenians to be their
most prestigious monument.
Acropolis Museum
Containing almost all the treasures
removed from the site since the 1830s, the
museum includes fine sculptures that once
adorned the Acropolis buildings, such as
the Kritias Boy pictured here.
쑺 P.57 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쑺
Acropolis son et lumière

The Acropolis is spectacularly lit at night
throughout the summer, effects that can be
enjoyed from vantage points across the city.
Contents Ideas
14
In the fifth century
Classical Athens
BC, the city-state of
Athens suddenly
found itself secure
and wealthy, having
defeated the
Persians and risen
to dominate their
mainland rivals.
They celebrated
their success by a
radical experiment
with democracy,
and with a flourishing of
art, architecture,
literature and philosophy
whose influences imbue
Western culture to this day.
The physical remains of the
Classical Golden Age are
still to be seen everywhere
in Athens, and with the
city’s reconstruction more
is emerging almost daily.
Kerameikos
A tranquil, little-visited site that incorpo-
rates the cemetery of ancient Athens as
well as fragments of the city walls, gates
and the roads that led to them.
쑺 P.83 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI
& ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Contents Ideas
15
Temple of Athena Nike

Small but perfectly formed, this temple to
Athens’ patron goddess encapsulates the
ideals of Classical architecture.
Stoa of Attalos
The reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos,
part of the ancient Athenian marketplace,
shows how Classical Athens might have
looked in its heyday, and houses the Theatre of Dionysos
Museum of the Agora. The stunning theatre where the
쑺 P.60 쑺 THE ACROPOLIS 쑽 masterpieces of Classical drama were
first performed.
Monument of Lysikratos
In a quiet corner of Pláka, this is a lone sur-
vivor of what was once a long line of simi-
lar monuments celebrating victory in
ancient drama contests.
쑺 P.64 쑺 PLÁKA 쑽
Contents Ideas
16
The Romans
Roman Athens
controlled Athens for
some eight hundred
years, but they left
relatively few
monuments. On the
whole they
respected the
artistic and
architectural
heritage of Classical
Athens, while the
city itself became
something of a backwater
of the Empire. There were,
however, two great
benefactors in particular
whose legacy has survived:
the Emperor Hadrian and
Herodes Atticus, a Hadrian’s Library
wealthy Roman senator. You can only admire it from the other side
of a fence, but the scale of the Emperor’s
structure is truly impressive.
쑺 P.74 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽
Tower of the Winds

Situated in the Roman forum, this curious
yet graceful octagonal tower has each of
its well-preserved faces decorated with a
relief of the eight winds.
쑺 P.71 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쒀
Contents Ideas
17
The Roman Forum

Built by Julius and Augustus Caesar as an
extension of the busy Greek marketplace,
the Roman Forum is one of the main
attractions in Monastiráki. The site includes
the oldest Mosque in Athens, the Fethiye
Tzami.
Hadrian’s Arch
Erected by Hadrian to mark the division
between the ancient Greek city and the The Areopagus
modern Roman one, this imposing arch This low, rocky hill below the Acropolis has
rises to a height of eighteen metres. rich historical significance: in ancient times
it was the site of the Council of Nobles and
쑺 P.115 쑺 SMNDAGMA & AROUND 쑽
the Judicial Court, and later St Paul
preached here, setting in train the conver-
sion of Athens to Christianity.
Odeion of Herodes Atticus

The partly reconstructed theatre at the foot
of the Acropolis is today a stunning setting
for events at the annual Hellenic festival.
Contents Ideas
18
When the Roman
Byzantine Athens
empire split, Athens
came under the
control of
Byzantium
(Constantinople) and
the Byzantine
empire. The schools
of philosophy were
closed, and many of
the city’s “pagan”
temples converted
to churches. The
legacy of the early
Christians is a series of
beautiful ancient
monasteries, as well as
museums and wonderful
frescoes and icons.
Kapnikaréa
The eleventh-century church of
Kapnikaréa, right in the heart of Athens,
makes for an extraordinary contrast to the
packed shopping streets surrounding it.
Contents Ideas
19
Byzantine and Christian
Museum
The richness of many of the icons on dis-
play is typical of the Byzantine era’s artistic
styles.
쑺 P.106 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS 쑺
Christ Pantokrator
Christ sits in majesty at the heart of the
world-famous cycle of mosaics in Dhafní
Monastery.
쑺 P.125 쑺 SUBURBAN ATHENS 쑽
Dhafní Monastery
The fortress-like exterior of the Monastery of
Dhafní, on the western fringes of Athens,
gives little clue of the glories within.
Contents Ideas
20
Athens’ National
National Archeological Museum
Archeological
Museum is among
the world’s greatest
museums, with an
unrivalled collection
of ancient Greek
art. It spans every
era from prehistoric
and the
development of
Mycenaean and
Minoan culture,
through Classical
Greece and on to
Roman and early The museum building
Byzantine times. The imposing Neoclassical building hous-
Extensive renovation ing the Museum occupies an entire block,
set back from the street amid jungly gar-
for the 2004 dens.
Olympics has 쑺 P.96 쑺 THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
provided a setting to
match the contents.
Highlights are the
finds from graves at
Mycenae, and from the
excavations of Akrotíri on
the island of Thíra
(Santorini).
The Vafio Cup

This wonderful gold cup, one of two dat-
ing from around 1500 BC, depicts a bull
being trapped, and was made by beating
the gold into a hollow mould.
Contents Ideas
21
Poseidon
In this graceful bronze statue from the mid-
fifth century BC, Poseidon stands poised in
perfect balance as he prepares to hurl his
(missing) trident.
MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쑽
Frescoes
The Archeological Museum holds an impor-
tant collection of frescoes; this example
from Akrotíri depicts two boys boxing, its
style clearly influenced by Minoan Crete.
The Little Jockey of

Artemission
In another masterpiece of animated bronze
sculpture, the delicate-looking rider – prob-
ably a boy – seems far too small for his gal-
loping mount.
MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쑽
Contents Ideas
22
The city’s lesser-
Cultural museums
known museums
should not be
overlooked. Among
the best are the
Benáki and
Kanellópoulos
museums, each
housing magnificent
private collections
that cover every age
of Greek art and
history from the
prehistoric era to
the nineteenth-century
independence struggle.
Others are more specialist:
for example, the
Goulandhrís Museum of Kanellopoulou Museum
Right under the Acropolis at the top of
Cycladic Art concentrates Pláka, the Kanellopoulou Museum fills a
on artefacts predating the former private home with a treasure trove
of fine art.
Classical era, superbly 쑺 P.65 쑺 PLÁKA 쒀
displayed, while the
Museum of Greek Folk
Art features ceramics,
jewellery, weaving and
other crafts.
Museum of Greek Popular

Musical Instruments
Superbly displayed in a Neoclassical
building, the museum traces the history
of virtually every type of instrument
ever played in Greece.
Contents Ideas
23
Museum of Greek Folk Art

A superb collection of arts and crafts, includ-
ing regional costumes and shadow puppets.
쑺 P.61 쑺 PLÁKA 쒀
Benáki Museum
Occupying a graceful nineteenth-century
mansion, the Benáki collection is of
exceptional variety and quality.
쑺 P.105 쑺 KOLONÁKI &
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Goulandhrís Museum of
Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art
This small collection is extremely well pre-
sented, and contains fine examples of
Cycladic art.
쑺 P.105 쑺 KOLONÁKI &
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쒀
Contents Ideas
24
Plans for a city of
Modern Athens
broad boulevards,
drawn up in the
nineteenth century
when Athens
became capital after
Independence,
didn’t survive long.
After World War II,
instead, rapid
growth saw the city
emerge as a vibrant,
stimulating and exciting
mix of East and West,
urban and rural, where
chickens roost next to
Internet cafés, and eastern-
style bazaars vie for space
with chic outlets of Armani
and Zara.
The metro
The development of new metro lines has
helped transform the city centre, cutting
traffic and pollution and providing fast,
efficient and easy-to-use transport.
쑺 P.166 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쒀
Contents Ideas
25
Platía Omonías
A great central meeting point; its perimeter
is lined with kiosks selling everything from
papers and lottery tickets to watch-straps.
쑺 P.88 쑺 PLATÍA OMONÍAS & AROUND 쑺
The Voulí Platía Sondagmatos

The vast Neoclassical Greek parliament Skndagma Square is the vital heart of the
building is guarded by evzones, goose- modern city, bounded on one side by the
stepping in colourful traditional costume. parliament building and surrounded by
쑺 P.114 쑺 SMNDAGMA & AROUND 쒀 bustling commercial streets.
쑺 P.112 쑺 SMNDAGMA & AROUND 쑽
Contents Ideas
26
Athens is dotted
Hills and views
with hills and
surrounded by
mountains, almost
all of which offer
great views and the
opportunity to
escape the clamour
of the city for a
while. Inevitably, the
Acropolis seems to
find its way into
every photo, but there are
fine cityscapes to be
enjoyed in other directions
too. The Acropolis itself
offers good views of the
city, while Lykavitós is the
other classic viewpoint –
with the added advantage
of a walk through elegant
Kolonáki and a funicular to
get you to the top. On the
fringes of the city, the
mountains of Imittós and
Párnitha are surprisingly
rugged – making them
excellent hiking territory.
The Acropolis
Great views as you look northeast from the
Acropolis, with Pláka below, Skndagma and
the city centre behind, and Lykavitós in the
background.
Contents Ideas
27
Lykavitós
From the top, Athens is laid out before you
in all directions – on a clear day you can
see as far as the mountains of the
Peloponnese.
쑺 P.104 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS HILL쑽
The Pnyx
The remains of the ancient Athenian assem-
얏
bly stand at the summit of the Hill of the
Filopáppou Pnyx, looking out over Pireás to the sea.
Filopáppou hill, romantically known in antiq-
uity as the Hill of the Muses, is topped by a 쑺 P.82 쑺 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
grandiose monument to the Roman senator EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쑽
after whom it is named.
쑺 P.82 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI &
ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Lófos tou Stréfi

Stréfi hill is little visited and offers a quiet
escape from the streets of
surrounding Exarhía.
쑺 P.98 쑺 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
Contents Ideas
28
At first sight Athens
Green Athens
is not a green city,
but it has its
moments. The
citizens decorate
their balconies with
potted plants and
shrubs, while in the
older quarters
bougainvillea
covers many
houses. In spring, flowers
try to blossom everywhere
– archeological sites and
the steeper slopes of the
hills are ideal breeding
grounds. At the very heart
of the city, the National
Gardens offer almost
tropical luxuriance, while
as soon as you leave the Égina
The island of Égina, less than an hour by
city limits, nature reasserts hydrofoil from Athens, is famed for its
itself immediately, whether many green orchards bearing pistachios.
쑺 P.147 쑺 FURTHER AFIELD 쒀
in the mountains, the
coast or the nearby
islands.
The National Gardens

Part formally laid out, part distinctly over-
grown, the National Gardens make for a
refreshing, shady escape from the sum-
mer heat.
쑺 P.114 쑺 SMNDAGMA & AROUND 쒀
Contents Ideas
29
Ruins in spring
Even in the heart of Athens, in springtime
flowers burst through and adorn the many
ancient remains.
Lykavitós
The lower slopes of Lykavitós and many of
the city’s other hills are covered in pine
trees and succulents.
쑺 P.104 쑺 KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Mount Párnitha
Less than an hour by bus from the city cen-
tre, Mount Párnitha is remarkably wild, with
a fabulous variety of alpine flowers in
spring.
Contents Ideas
30
Athens has a huge
Restaurants and tavernas
variety of restaurants
and tavernas. The
atmosphere is
invariably relaxed,
though the city does
have its share of
fancy places. There’s
virtually every type
of cuisine too, but
the vast majority of
places, and the ones
most frequented by
locals, remain no-
frills tavernas. Most
menus are simple,
but you can rely on
good-quality, fresh
ingredients: if you’re
not sure about the menu,
you can often go into the Zidhoron
kitchen and see what’s on In the heart of trendy Psyrrí, Zidhoron is a
modern take on a traditional
offer. A typically Greek way mezedhopolío.
to eat is to order a selection 쑺 P.79 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쒀
of small dishes –
mezédhes – to share. Koukáki
An excellent eating locale just outside the
Locals generally eat late: centre.
2–3.30pm for lunch, 쑺 P121 쑺 METS, PANGRÁTI
& KOUKÁKI, 쑽
9–11pm for dinner. Away
from the touristy areas, you
may find restaurants
deserted if you go much
earlier than this.
Contents Ideas
31
Pláka
Most Athens restaurants have a terrace,
courtyard or stretch of pavement on which
tables are set up outside in summer. The
pedestrian streets of Pláka provide a partic-
ularly atmospheric setting.
Taverna Damingos
A basement taverna that’s still going strong
into its third century.
Taverna music
Evening performances of traditional Greek
music are common, and while often rather
touristy they are occasionally great.
Áno Petrálona
Away from the touristy central districts,
neighbourhoods such as Áno Petrálona gen-
erally offer more authentic menus and a
more local atmosphere.
쑺 P.85 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI &
ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쒀
Contents Ideas
32
There seems to be a
Cafés and bars
café on every corner
in Athens, most of
which open from
mid-morning till late
in the evening.
They’re an essential
part of the social
fabric of the city,
always full of groups
of people chatting
(on their mobiles if
not to each other), smoking
and drinking. Join them
over a Greek coffee or the
quintessential summer
drink, a frappé: iced
instant coffee, whipped to
a froth. If you fancy a cold
beer, you can have that in
a café too – many
effectively become bars in
the evening, when they
turn down the lights and
turn up the music. Places
that describe themselves
as bars, with only a few
exceptions, are much
fancier and more
Brettos
expensive. Backlit bottles decorate Brettos, a peren-
nial Pláka favourite that’s a liquor store
by day and bar at night.
Contents Ideas
33
Psyrrí
By night, Psyrrí buzzes with some of the
city’s trendiest bars and restaurants, while
by day it’s a relaxing place for a coffee.
Exárhia
An alternative feel prevails at the cafés
and bars in this bohemian district.
쑺 P.100 쑺 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM,
EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쑽
Platía Filomoússou Eterías
Competing cafés and restaurants in the
heart of Pláka.
Skholarhio
This traditional ouzerí in Pláka serves excel-
lent mezédhes.
Contents Ideas
34
To see the best live
Music and entertainment Mégaro Mousikís
traditional Greek The city’s major concert hall, the Mégaro
Mousikís, hosts prestigious performances
music, perhaps all year-round.
surprisingly you 쑺 P.169 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑽
need to visit during

the winter months,
as in the summer
many musicians are
off touring the
country.
This is also when
the major ballet and
drama
performances are
staged, and the
sporting calendar
is at its busiest. The
summer, however, is
the festival season,
and most important of all is
the June-to-September
Hellenic Festival of dance,
music and ancient drama,
Rebétika
with many of its Traditional music falls broadly into two
performances staged in the categories: rebétika, the drugs-and-out-
cast music brought to Athens by Greeks
ancient theatres of Herodes from Asia Minor in the early twentieth
Atticus and Epidaurus. There century; and dhimotiká, traditional folk
music.
are also annual rock, jazz 쑺 P.94 쑺 PLATÍA OMONÍAS & AROUND 쑽
and blues events at this time,
and you may see big
international tours at one of
the outdoor venues.
Contents Ideas
35
Street music
The pedestrianization of much of the centre
has allowed street performers and traders
to thrive; the approach to the Acropolis is
particularly good for seeing buskers.
Football
There are three major football clubs in Athens:
Panathinaikós, Olympiakós and AEK; the
atmosphere on match days is intense.
쑺 P.170 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑺
Lykavitós Theatre
The theatre perched atop Lykavitós is a
spectacular venue. Many of the city’s major
rock events are staged here.
쑺 P.105 쑺 KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Contents Ideas
36
Nightlife
Clubs and dance
bars are hugely
popular in Athens,
and often extremely
sophisticated.
Downtown, the
hottest action is in
the Psyrrí and Gázi areas,
but in summer many close
down and decamp to a
string of hangar-like places
on the coastal strip from Kolonáki
Pireás to Várkiza. Expect Kolonáki has a fair spread of clubs, which
tend to be generally more upmarket than
the unexpected: most play those in Psyrrí or Gázi.
recent hits, but don’t be 쑺 P.111 쑺 KOLONÁKI & LYKAVITÓS HILL 쒀
surprised if the sound

shifts to Greek or belly-
dancing music towards the
end of the night. The gay
scene in Athens is mostly
very discreet, but there is
an increasing number of
clubs and bars; Gázi is the
hottest new area, while
more established places
are mostly in Kolonáki or
off Syngroú Avenue.
Bee Bar
Typically cool designer bar in Psyrrí, a
great place to meet up at the beginning of
the evening, or to chill out in later.
쑺 P.79 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSRRÍ 쒀
Contents Ideas
37
Beach clubs
Beachside clubs and bars open up in sum-
mer to cater to the clubbers seeking the
cooler climes of the coast.
Live bands
Clubbing The local rock scene is small but interest-
Expect a hefty bill if you join the clubbing ing – you can expect anything from rock to
crowd, but at least the admission price usu- reggae to blues.
ally includes your first drink.
쑺 P101 쑺 THE ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM,
쑺 P.87 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI & EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI 쒀
ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쑽
Contents Ideas
38
Shopping in Athens
Markets and shopping Street markets
Street markets held across the city are
is decidedly great places to stock up on picnic fare
schizophrenic. On and get a taste of local Athens.
the one hand, the 쑺 P.170 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑽
bazaar area is an
extraordinary jumble
of little specialist
shops and stalls,
while almost every
neighbourhood still
hosts a weekly
street market. On
the other, the
upmarket shopping
areas of the city
centre, and the
malls and fashion
emporia of the ritzier
suburbs, are as glossy and
expensive as any in Europe.
The food halls of the central
market and the picturesque
flower market nearby are
particularly worthwhile, while
if you’re into trawling through
junk, don’t miss the Sunday
morning flea markets in
Monastiráki and Pireás.
Contents Ideas
39
Monastiráki flea market

Odhós Ermoú Experience the Sunday morning buzz in the
Ermoú, off Skndagma square, is one of the streets around Monastiráki.
prime downtown shopping streets, home to
department stores and high-street labels.
쑺 P.70 쑺 MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ 쑽 Períptero kiosks
Handy for anything from newspapers to cold
drinks, tobacco and any manner of essen-
tials, kiosks are found on every corner and
stay open all hours. Several in Omónia spe-
cialize in the foreign press.
쑺 P.88 쑺 PLATÍAS OMONÍAS & AROUND 쑽
The fish market

Seafood and fish play a big part in the
Athenian diet, and at the bustling fish
market you’ll see residents and taverna
owners alike browsing the catch.
쑺 P.88 쑺 OMÓNIA 쑽
Contents Ideas
40
Greece remains a
Orthodox Athens
deeply traditional
and for the most
part culturally
homogeneous
society, and over
ninety-five percent
of the population
belongs to the
Greek Orthodox
Church. For all its
surface modernity,
Athens is no
exception. The Orthodox
church plays a significant
part in most people’s lives:
ceremonies like baptisms,
weddings and funerals are
very important, and the
festivals of the church
calendar – Easter above all
– are celebrated with
gusto. Name days –
celebrating the saint after
whom you are named –
are more significant than
birthdays.
Icon shops
Icons, from cheap reproductions aimed at
the tourist market to expensive and exqui-
site copies are sold everywhere: some of
the best are found in the religious artefact
shops around Platía Mitrópoleos.
Contents Ideas
41
Historic icons
When you’ve had your fill of browsing the
icon shops, check out their historic predeces-
sors at the Byzantine and Christian museum.
쑺 P.106 쑺 KOLONÁKI AND
LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Platía Mitrópoleos
The square itself is more of a draw than the
cathedral here, but there has been a church
on this site for centuries
Baptism ceremonies
Events like baptisms bring out a vast,
extended family – all of whom can expect
lavish hospitality.
Contents Ideas
42
Central Athens is
Athens on foot Apostólou Pávlou
Modern sculpture adorns the pedestrian-
compact enough to ized street that overlooks the Agora and
be able to walk Acropolis.
almost anywhere. 쑺 P.80 쑺 THISSÍO, GÁZI
& ÁNO PETRÁLONA 쑽
One of the lasting
legacies of the run
up to 2004 Olympics
is undoubtedly be
the network of
pedestrian streets
that transformed the
centre of town.
Quite apart from the
pleasure of being able to
witness the ancient sites
from a traffic-free
environment,
pedestrianization, together
with the extension of the
metro and other public
transport initiatives have
started to have an effect on
Athens’ critical pollution Odhós Ermoú
problems. Ermoú is a wonderfully traffic-free route
from Skndagma down the Monastiráki.
Contents Ideas
43
Kolonáki
The upper reaches of Kolonáki climb
steeply towards Lykavitós hill – it’s easiest
to take the funicular up and walk down.
쑺 P.102 쑺 KOLONÁKI
& LYKAVITÓS HILL 쑽
Odhós Adhrianoú
From Thissío metro all the way through
Pláka, Adhrianoú is lined with bustling cafés
and shops.
Dhionysíou Areopayítou
A relaxed, traffic-free street on the south
side of the Acropolis, passing the Herodes
Atticus Theatre.
Contents Ideas
44
Athens is
Seaside Athens and island escapes
surrounded by the
sea, and the Greek
nation has a
seafaring tradition
going back to
Classical times.
There are some
great beaches in
easy reach, though
on summer
weekends they’re
packed to capacity.
At many of the best
you pay for entry, Náfplio
allowing you to use The beautiful old town of Náfplio, with its
picturesque castles, attracts plenty of
a range of facilities weekending Athenians, ensuring lively
nightlife to go with the sights.
from loungers to
watersports. More
adventurously, from
the port of Pireás
you can get a ferry
to one of a number
of nearby islands,
escaping in just a
couple of hours (half
that if you take a
hydrofoil) to an entirely
different world.
Beach at Vouliagméni
Vouliagméni has some of the most attrac-
tive and exclusive beaches on the devel-
oped strip south of the city.
쑺 P128 쑺 SUBURBAN ATHENS 쒀
Contents Ideas
45
Póros Temple of Afaia, Égina

Picturesque Póros lies in close proximity to The rural island of Égina seems another
the mainland, ensuring a steady stream of world – the serene Temple of Afaia can be
customers for its fine waterfront restaurants reached by a good local bus service.
and cafés. 쑺 P.147 쑺 FURTHER AFIELD 쒀
쑺 P.148 쑺 FURTHER AFIELD 쑽
Ferries from Pireás
Part of the magic of visiting the islands is
the journey itself; an impressive array of
ferries, catamarans and hydrofoils offer a
smooth crossing as they run between the
bustling port and the islands.
Contents Ideas
46
Attica, the province
Out of Athens
surrounding Athens,
has numerous
attractions beyond
the obvious ones
offered by its
beaches: above all,
the important
outposts of Classical
Athens, made all the
more appealing now
by their rural isolation.
Further out, some of the
great sites, including
Delphi and Mycenae, are
an easy day-trip. The
mountains, with their
traditional villages, walking Mycenae
The discovery of Mycenae in the late
and even skiing nineteenth century was a seminal event in
opportunities, are yet Greek archeology, proving that Homer and
the stories of ancient, pre-Classical civi-
another alternative. lizations were not mere myth.
Rhamnous
Ancient Rhamnous is little visited, but the
site enjoys a spectacular location over-
looking the island of Évvia.
쑺 P.136 쑺 ATTICA 쒀
Contents Ideas
47
Delphi
Delphi, home of the Delphic Oracle, was
thought by the ancient Greeks to be the
centre of the earth. It’s still among the most
impressive of all ancient sites.
Eleusis
The Sanctuary of Demeter at Eleusis –
accessible by city bus from Athens – was
one of the most important in the ancient
world.
Temple of Poseidon
Cape Soúnio and the beautiful temple that
stands at its tip have long been a landmark
for sailors approaching Athens.
쑺 P.133 쑺 ATTICA 쒀
Mount Parnitha
Looking out from the ancient fortress of
Phyle, just an hour from the centre of
Athens, the unspoilt nature of Mount
Parnitha is readily apparent.
쑺 P137 쑺 ATTICA 쑽
Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places
Contents Places
Places
Contents Places
51
The Acropolis
The rock of the Acropolis, crowned by the dramatic
ruins of the Parthenon, is one of the archetypal images
PLACES The Acropolis

of Western culture. The first time you see it, rising
above the traffic or from a distant hill, is extraordinary:
foreign and yet utterly familiar. The Parthenon temple
was always intended to be a landmark, and was famous
throughout the ancient world. Yet even in their wildest
dreams its creators could hardly have imagined that the
ruins would come to symbolize the emergence of
Western civilization – nor that, two-and-a-half millennia
on, it would attract some three million tourists a year.
The Acropolis’s natural setting, a chapter fall within one of three
steep-sided, flat-topped crag of separate fenced areas: the sum-
limestone rising abruptly a hun- mit of the Acropolis, which
dred metres from its surround- includes the Parthenon itself,
ings, has made it the focus of the the Propylaia – the gateway
city during every phase of its through which the ancient sanc-
development. Easily defensible tuary was entered – the
and with plentiful water, its ini- Acropolis Museum, and other
tial attractions are obvious – even temples including the
now, with no function apart Erectheion and the Temple of
from tourism, it is the undeniable Athena Nike; the South Slope
heart of the city, around which PARTHENON
everything else clusters, glimpsed
at almost every turn.
Crowds at the Acropolis can
be horrendous – to avoid the
worst, come very early or late in
the day.The peak rush usually
comes in late morning, when
coach tours congregate before
moving on to lunch elsewhere.
The sites included in this
Acropolis tickets and opening times

A joint ticket (e12; free to under-18s and EU students; E6 for non-EU students
and EU citizens over 65; free on public holidays and Sundays Nov–March) covers
the Acropolis, Ancient Agora and South Slope, plus the Roman Forum, Kerameikos
and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The smaller sites also offer individual tickets,
but only the joint one is valid for the summit of the Acropolis, so if you visit any of
the others first, be sure to buy the multiple ticket or you simply end up paying
twice; it can be used over four days, although there doesn’t seem to be any way
of indicating when it was issued.
The Acropolis itself is open every day April–Sept 8am–7pm, Oct–March
8am–4.30pm. The South Slope (individual entry E2) and Ancient Agora (individual
entry E4) are open daily April–Sept 8am–7pm, Oct–March 8.30am–3pm.
Contents Places
52
ER RI
SAR
LOU
0 150 m M Áyii
O Y IG
O Asómati
KA
U NIKA
OU
LEOKORIOU
LEPENIOTOU
OU
PO
LE
UL
PE
TE
OYIGOU
Thissio M
OP
PLATIA
IVIS
NI
OS
AK
OU
THISSIOU
OT
N
LO
IRA
YO
OU
U
KT
The Acropolis PLACES
STOLI
N AVA R H O U A P O
FI
A
V
KL
AM
SI Athenaeum
KHRISTOKOPIDHOU
LI
ESOPO
Maria Callas
ID
N S ER AV L I T O N
IL
IVIS
HO
IOU M
AD
EO FE ISS
ASTIN G O S
TH O
LOU
N
DH
HR
U
S RA U
IA
S
NO
PAV
AKA
U
MAN
TOS
M O N AUS T I R Á K I
IP P O
U F IL
LOU
Hephaisteion Stoa of AY IO U
Zeus T O PLATIA
E T AVISSYNIAS
KY N OU
STO
AN
IF
Entrance
RM
ES
Ayía
AD
NO
TO
APO
HR
Marina
U
Monastiráki
IA
Voulefterio
N
OTRYNEON Flea Market
OU
Ancient IFE
FIGALI AS Tholos STO
S
Agora U
Y KO
AD
PN Monument of Odeion
HR
Eponymous of Agrippa Stoa
IA
of Attalos
N
ITH
IOU LIO U SM Heroes
OU
Palace (Agora KLA Hadrian's
& Stoas Museum) DHOU Library
DH EYI
E OS
IO N
N
Y
Áyii PI AR
DH
LOU
IT SIO Entrance KI
EX
OU U
Apóstoli LI
IP
S N
PO
TAXIA R H O
PAV
PO
U
LY
EP
GN Fethiye
AM
IN
Areopagus Mosque
O
N
ON
LOU
TO
RO
Rock
DA
U
OU
SK
Roman
STO
IO
OS
DH
Forum
OU
MI
N
TR
SE
PA
OÖ Tower of
APO
OU
Museum of Greek U
M
Folk Art: Man & Tools TH the Winds

AR RA IOU
TH RIL
ET
OU OLO
SY
VO AV
Kanellopoulou
M.
SA U U
S
Propylaia Museum
LO
U
Athena TH
Entrance EO
Promachos RI
Beule Gate Erechtheion
AS
Panathenaic
Temple of
PR
Way
YT
Athena Nike
AN
Old Temple
IO
U
DH Theatre of Sanctuary Acropolis

I O Herodes Atticus of Artemis
RO
N Parthenon
VE
YS
IO
RT
U
OS
OU
AR Stoa of Acropolis
AT O N
EO Museum
GA
Eumenes
Asklepion
N
PA
LL
STR
EO
YI
I
ER TO
YL
T
MS
DI
UE U Panayia
OP
AL
GO
S
Khryssospiliotissa
VE
NO
Theatre of
PR
FR
RI
AT
Dionysos
NO
AN GE LIK
TI
GA
THE
RO
KA Odeion of
EP
Pericles
PA R
RA LL
IM
VE
AR A
ON
TZ IS
EN
U
GA FR
OU
IER PE
DH
DH
AT
LLO
ID
RT
RN I TI RI
HO
I
AT
OF
IO
HI
RY
OU
FE SK PRO
ASY
KA
NA Y MA N
HT
N
RE HO YS V AKH
U
MAKRIYIÁNNI
THR
OU
EO
SO TI KA
IO
EK
FRO S VA
S
NIS LL
YL
U Entrance
NO
GA
KO OT
ER
U I
N
AR
RO
OP
O
LL
EO
SE
VY
PR
PA
I
S
IT
YIT
NO
PLATIA
LAZARETTOU New Acropolis OU
NO
N Museum Site Akropoli

MISA
ZI
TZ
HE
TR
AM
NI
M
HA
I
OU
N
RT
RALIO
AN
TZ
KA
SE
RA
PA
TA YI
IK
IT
SI I
ZI
M
RI
R M
HR
TOU
TR
AK
A
AK
Akropoli
OU
AR
IS
OU
M
M
OM
TO
RIN
TR
U
MI
PO
Contents Places
53
Approaches to the Acropolis
The sites are ringed by a pedestrian walkway, allowing views of the Parthenon to
be appreciated from almost every angle. You may get a little lost among the jum-
ble of alleys in Pláka, but the rock itself is always there to guide you. The Acropolis
itself can be entered only from the west, where there’s a big coach park at the

bottom of the hill.
On foot, the most common approach to the ruins is from the northwest corner
of Pláka, on a path that extends above Odhós Dhioskoúron where it joins Theorías.
You can also approach from the south, where pedestrianized Dhionysíou
Areopayítou (Metro Akropoli) offers access to the South Slope; from the north via
the Ancient Agora (entrance on Adhrianoú; Metro Monastiráki); or, slightly further
but repaid with excellent views of both Agora and Acropolis, from Thissío along
traffic-free Apostólou Pávlou (Metro Thissío).
with its two great theatres; and They were built from the same
the Ancient Agora. marble as the temple, and in
There are no shops or restau- grandeur and architectural
rants within the Acropolis area, achievement are almost as
although you can buy water and impressive.The ancient
sandwiches, guidebooks, post- Athenians, awed by the fact that
cards and so on from a couple such wealth and craftsmanship
of stands near the Beule Gate. should be used for a purely sec-
There’s also a handy branch of ular building, ranked this as their
Everest right opposite Akropoli most prestigious monument.
metro station (at the corner of Walking through the gateway,
Mariyiánni and Dhiakoú) and which would originally have
plenty of similar places around had great wooden doors, is your
Monastiráki metro. If you want only chance to enter any of the
to sit down, there are cafés and ancient buildings atop the
tavernas nearby in almost every Acropolis.To the left of the cen-
direction: see Pláka (p.68), tral hall (which before Venetian
Monastiráki (p.77), Makriyánni bombardment supported a great
(p.121) and Thissío (p.85). coffered roof, painted blue and
gilded with stars), the
The Propylaia Pinakotheke was an early art
Main Acropolis site. Today, as gallery, exhibiting paintings of
throughout history, the Homeric subjects by
Propylaia are the gateway to the
PROPYLAIA
Acropolis. In Classical times the
road extended along a steep
ramp to this monumental dou-
ble-gatehouse; the modern path
makes a more gradual, zigzag-
ging ascent, passing first through
an arched Roman entrance, the
Beule Gate, added in the third
century AD.
The Propylaia were construct-
ed by Mnesikles from 437–432
BC, and their axis and propor-
tions aligned to balance the
recently completed Parthenon.
Contents Places
54
The development of the Acropolis
The rocky Acropolis was home to one of the earliest known settlements in Greece,
its slopes inhabited by a Neolithic community around 5000 BC. In Mycenaean
times it was fortified with Cyclopean walls (parts of which can still be seen),
enclosing a royal palace and temples to the goddess Athena. By the ninth century
BC, the Acropolis had become the heart of Athens, the first Greek city-state,
sheltering its principal public buildings.
Most of the substantial remains seen today date from the fifth century BC or
later, by which time the buildings here were purely religious. The entire area was
reconstructed in 449 BC, following its sacking during the Persian Wars. This vast
project, coinciding with the Golden Age of Classical Athens, was masterminded by
Pericles and carried out under the general direction of the architect and sculptor
Pheidias. It was completed in an incredibly short time: the Parthenon itself took
only ten years to finish.
The monuments survived barely altered for close to a thousand years, until in
the reign of Emperor Justinian the temples were converted to Christian places of
worship. Over the following centuries, the uses became secular as well as reli-
gious, and embellishments increased, gradually obscuring the Classical designs.
Fifteenth-century Italian princes held court in the Propylaia, and the same quar-
ters were later used by the Turks as their commander’s headquarters and as a
powder magazine. The Parthenon underwent similar changes from Greek to
Roman temple, from Byzantine church to Frankish cathedral, before several cen-
turies of use as a Turkish mosque. The Erechtheion, with its graceful female fig-
ures, saw service as a harem.
The Acropolis buildings finally fell victim to war, blown up during successive
attempts by the Venetians to oust the Turks. In 1684 the Turks demolished the Temple
of Athena Nike to gain a brief tactical advantage. Three years later the Venetians, lay-
ing siege to the hill, ignited a Turkish gunpowder magazine in the Parthenon, in the
process blasting off its roof and starting a fire that raged for two days and nights.
The process of stripping down to the bare ruins seen today was completed by
souvenir hunters and the efforts of the first archeologists (see p.56).
The fate of the buildings since has been little happier. After Independence, Greek
archeologists cleared the Turkish village that had developed around the
Parthenon-mosque and did work intended to preserve the structures: in the long
run, though, much of this proved destructive. Meanwhile, earthquakes have dis-
lodged the foundations; generations of feet have slowly worn down surfaces; and,
more recently, sulphur dioxide deposits, caused by vehicle and industrial pollution,
have been turning the marble to dust.
Since a 1975 report predicted the collapse of the Parthenon, visitors have been
barred from its actual precinct, and a major, long-term restoration scheme of the
entire Acropolis embarked upon. With the work completed as a result of the 2004
Olympics, the Acropolis would be free of scaffolding and reconstruction work for
the first time in decades.
Polygnotus.The wing to the The Panathenaic Way

right is much smaller, as Main Acropolis site. The
Mnesikles’s original design Panathenaic Way was the route
incorporated ground sacred to along which the great proces-
the Goddess of Victory and the sion for ancient Athens’
premises had to be adapted as a Panathenaic Festival, in honour
waiting room for her shrine – of the city’s patron goddess
the Temple of Athena Nike. Athena, passed every four years.
Contents Places
55
The procession wound right process was undertaken in the
through the Classical city from run-up to the 2004 Olympic
the gates now in the Games – the temple was tem-
Kerameikos site (p.83) via the porarily dismantled and its pieces
Propylaia to the Parthenon and, taken away for restoration and

finally, the Erectheion. One of cleaning.
the best-preserved stretches of The best views of the temple
the ancient route, which was of are from inside the Acropolis, to
course used as a road between the right after passing through
festivals too, can be seen just the Propylaia. Here also are the
inside the Propylaia. Here you scant remains of a Sanctuary of
can make out grooves cut for Brauronian Artemis. Although its
footholds in the rock and, to function remains obscure, it is
either side, niches for innumer- known that the precinct once
able statues and offerings. In housed a colossal bronze repre-
Classical times it ran past a ten- sentation of the Wooden Horse
metre-high bronze statue of of Troy. More noticeable is a
Athena Promachos (Athena the nearby stretch of Mycenaean
Champion), whose base can just wall (running parallel to the
about be made out. Athena’s Propylaia) that was incorporated
spear and helmet were said to into the Classical design.
be visible to sailors approaching
from as far away as Sounío.The The Parthenon
statue was moved to Main Acropolis site. The Parthenon
Constantinople in Byzantine was the first great building in
times and later destroyed. Pericles’ scheme, intended as a
new sanctuary for Athena and a
The Temple of Athena Nike home for her cult image – a
Main Acropolis site. Simple and ele- colossal wooden statue of Athena
gant, the Temple of Athena Nike Polias (Athena of the City) over-
stands on a precipitous platform laid with ivory and gold plating,
overlooking the port of Pireás with precious gems as eyes and
and the Saronic Gulf.The tem-
ple’s frieze depicts the Athenians’
victory over the Persians at
Plateia. A relief from inside the
temple, Victory Adjusting her
Sandal, is now one of the star
exhibits in the Acropolis
Museum. It was from this site
that in myth King Aegeus main-
tained a vigil for the return of
his son Theseus after slaying the
Minotaur on Crete – and where
Aegeus threw himself to his
death, mistakenly believing
Theseus had perished.
Amazingly, the whole temple
was demolished by the Turks,
who used its material for a gun
emplacement, and reconstructed
from its original blocks two
hundred years later.The same
PARTHENON FRIEZE
Contents Places
56
The Parthenon Marbles
The controversy over the so-called Elgin Marbles has its origin in the activities of
Western looters at the start of the nineteenth century. Chief among these were the
French ambassador Fauvel, gathering antiquities for the Louvre, and the British
ambassador Lord Elgin. Elgin obtained permission from the Turks to erect scaf-
folding, excavate and remove stones with inscriptions. He interpreted this con-
cession as a licence to make off with almost all of the bas-reliefs from the
Parthenon’s frieze, most of its pedimental structures and a caryatid from the
Erechtheion – all of which he later sold to the British Museum. There were per-
haps justifications for Elgin’s action at the time – not least the Turks’ tendency to
use Parthenon stones in their limekilns, and possible further ravages of war –
though it was controversial even then.
The Greeks hope that the long-awaited completion of the new Acropolis
Museum (see p.59) will create the perfect opportunity for the British Museum to
bow to pressure and return the marbles. But despite a campaign begun by Greek
actress and culture minister Melina Mercouri in the early 1980s, there is so far lit-
tle sign of that happening.
an ivory gorgon death’s-head on length to width, width to

her breast.The sculpture has long height, and even such relation-
been lost, but numerous later ships as the distances between
copies exist (including a fine the columns and their diameter
Roman one in the National – is constant, while any possible
Archeological Museum). Despite appearance of disproportion is
the statue, the Parthenon never corrected by meticulous mathe-
rivalled the Erechtheion in sanc- matics and craftsmanship.
tity, and its role tended to remain
that of treasury and artistic The Erechtheion
showcase. Main Acropolis site. The
Originally the Parthenon’s Erechtheion was the last of the
columns were brightly painted great works of Pericles to be
and it was decorated with the completed. Both Athena and the
finest sculpture of the Classical city’s old patron, Poseidon
age, depicting the Panathenaic (known here as Erechtheus),
procession, the birth of Athena were worshipped here, in the
and the struggles of Greeks to most revered of the ancient tem-
overcome giants,Amazons and ples.The site is the oldest on the
centaurs – also brightly coloured. Acropolis, home to the original
Of these, the best surviving Mycenaean palace. It was here,
examples are in the British according to myth, that Athena
Museum in London (see box and Poseidon wrangled for pos-
above); the Acropolis Museum session of Athens. A contest was
has others, but the greater part of held to decide their rival claims,
the pediments, along with the judged by their fellow Olympian
central columns and the cella, gods. At the touch of Athena’s
were destroyed by the Venetian spear, the first ever olive tree
bombardment in 1687. sprang from the ground, while
To achieve the Parthenon’s Poseidon summoned forth a
exceptional harmony of design, spring of sea water. Athena won,
its architect, Iktinos, used every and became patron of the city.
trick known to the Doric order Today, the sacred objects with-
of architecture. Every ratio – in are long gone, but the series
Contents Places
57
of elegant Ionic porticoes sur- Labelling is fairly basic, so to
vive, the north one with a par- explore in detail a supplemen-
ticularly fine decorated doorway tary guide is useful, though it’s
and frieze of blue Eleusinian also easy to eavesdrop on the
marble. By far the most striking many tour guides passing

feature, however, is the famous through – indeed, usually it’s
Porch of the Caryatids, whose impossible to avoid doing so.
columns form the tunics of six In the first rooms to the left
tall maidens.The ones in situ are, of the vestibule are fragments
sadly, replacements. Five of the of sculptures from the Old
originals are in the Acropolis Temple of Athena (seventh to
Museum, while a sixth was loot- sixth century BC), whose
ed by Elgin, who also removed a traces of paint give a good
column and other purely archi- impression of the vivid colours
tectural features – they’re that were used in temple deco-
replaced here by casts in a differ- ration. Further on is the
ent colour marble. Moschophoros, a painted mar-
ble statue of a young man car-
The Acropolis Museum rying a sacrificial calf, dated
Main Acropolis site. April–Sept Mon 570 BC and one of the earliest
11am–7pm, Tues–Sun 8am–7pm; examples of Greek art in mar-
Oct–March Mon 10am–3pm, Tues–Sun ble. Room 4 displays one of
8.30am–3pm. Placed discreetly on the chief treasures of the build-
a level below that of the main ing, a unique collection of
monuments, the Acropolis Korai, or statues of maidens.
Museum contains virtually all of The progression in style, from
the portable objects removed the simply contoured Doric
from the site since 1834. clothing to the more elegant
and voluminous Ionic designs,
ACROPOLIS MUSEUM
is fascinating; the figures’ smiles
also change subtly, becoming
increasingly loose and natural.
The pieces of the Parthenon
frieze in Room 8 were buried
in the explosion that destroyed
the Parthenon, thereby escap-
ing the clutches of Lord Elgin.
This room also contains a
graceful and fluid sculpture,
known as Iy Sandalízoussa,
which depicts Athena Nike
adjusting her sandal. Finally, in
the last room are four authen-
tic and semi-eroded caryatids
from the Erechtheion, dis-
played behind a glass screen in
a carefully rarefied atmosphere.
Theatre of Dionysos
South slope site. The Theatre of
Dionysos is one of the most
evocative locations in the city.
Here were hosted the first
Contents Places
58
performances of the masterpieces Theatre of Dionysos – is the sec-
of Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides ond-century Roman Herodes
and Aristophanes; it was also the Atticus Theatre (Odeion of
venue in Classical times for the Herodes Atticus).This has been
annual festival of tragic drama, extensively restored for perform-
where each Greek citizen would ances of music and Classical

take his turn as member of the drama during the summer festival
chorus.The theatre could hold (see p.170). Unfortunately, it’s
some 17,000 spectators – consid- open only for shows; at other
erably more than Herodes times you’ll have to be content
Atticus’s 5000–6000 seats; twenty with spying over the wall.
of the original 64 tiers of seats Between the two theatres lie
survive. Most notable are the the foundations of the Stoa of
great marble thrones in the front Eumenes, originally a massive
row, each inscribed with the colonnade of stalls erected in the
name of an official of the festival second century BC.Above the
or of an important priest; in the stoa extend the ruins of the
middle sat the priest of Dionysos Asklepion, a sanctuary devoted
and on his right the representative to the healing god Asklepios and
of the Delphic Oracle.At the rear built around a sacred spring.
of the stage along the Roman Today, it’s a pleasantly peaceful
bema (rostrum) are reliefs of spot, shaded by cypress trees; the
episodes in the life of Dionysos. most obvious remains are of a
Sadly, this area is roped off to pro- Byzantine church of the doctor-
tect the stage-floor mosaic, a saints Kosmas and Damian.
magnificent diamond of multi- Follow the steps above the
coloured marble best seen from Theatre of Dionysos, then a path
the seats above. to the right, and you’ll come to a
vast grotto, converted perhaps a
Around the Theatre millennium ago into the chapel
South slope site. The dominant of Panayía Khryssospiliótissa; it’s
structure on the south side of the worth a look for the setting
Acropolis – much more immedi- rather than the faded iconogra-
ately obvious even than the phy inside.
THEATRE OF DIONYSOS
Contents Places
59
The New Acropolis Museum Areopagite”, who became the
Leóforos Dhionysíou Areopayítou, oppo- city’s patron saint.Today, there’s
site the South Slope site. After years little left on the ground, and,
of delays, work on the new historic associations apart, the
Acropolis Museum finally began Areopagus is notable mainly for

in 2003.This is set to be stun- the views, especially down over
ning: the top storey is an all-glass the Agora and towards the
affair designed to house the ancient cemetery of Kerameikós.
Parthenon Marbles (those already
in the Acropolis Museum, plus The Ancient Agora
the restored Elgin Marbles), with Ancient Agora site. The Agora or
a direct view up to the market was the heart of ancient
Parthenon itself. Downstairs, the Athenian city life from as early
rest of the contents of the current as 3000 BC.Today, the site is an
Acropolis Museum will be far extensive and rather confusing
better displayed than they can be jumble of ruins, dating from
now, and there’s also a raised, various stages of building
part-glass floor, added to the between the sixth century BC
design to preserve and display and the fifth century AD. As
remains of early Christian well as the marketplace, the
Athens, discovered during build- Agora was the chief meeting
ing work. place of the city, where orators
held forth, business was dis-
The Areopagus cussed and gossip exchanged. It
Immediately below the entrance to the was also the first home of the
Acropolis. Slippery, rock-hewn democratic assembly before that
stairs ascend the low, unfenced shifted to the Pnyx, and contin-
hill of the Areopagus, the site of ued to be its meeting place
the Council of Nobles and the when cases of ostracism were
Judicial Court under the aristo- discussed for most of the
cratic rule of ancient Athens. Classical period.
During the Classical period the Originally the Agora was a
court lost its powers of govern- rectangle, divided diagonally by
ment to the Assembly (held on the Panathenaic Way and
the Pnyx), but it remained the enclosed by temples, administra-
court of criminal justice, dealing tive buildings, and long porti-
primarily with cases of homi- coed stoas (arcades of shops). In
cide. In myth it was also the the centre was an open space,
rock (pagos) where Ares, God of defined by boundary stones.
War, was tried for the murder of The best overview of the site
one of Poseidon’s sons. Aeschylus is from the exceptionally well-
used this setting in The preserved Hephaisteion, or
Eumenides for the trial of Temple of Hephaistos, which
Orestes, who stood accused of overlooks the rest of the site
murdering his mother from the west. An observation
Clytemnestra. point in front of it has a plan
The Persians camped here dur- showing the buildings as they
ing their siege of the Acropolis were in 150 AD, and the various
in 480 BC, and in the Roman remains laid out in front of you
era Saint Paul preached the make a lot more sense with this
“Sermon on an Unknown God” to help (there are similar plans
on the hill, winning amongst his at the entrances).The temple,
converts Dionysius “the sometimes known as the
Contents Places
The Acropolis PLACES 60
STOA OF ATTALOS
Thisseion (the exploits of reconstruction of the stoa was

Theseus are depicted on the undertaken by the American
frieze), is dedicated to School of Archeology in Athens
Hephaistos, patron of black- between 1953 and 1956. It is, in
smiths and metalworkers. It was every respect except colour, an
one of the earliest buildings of entirely faithful reconstruction
Pericles’ programme, but also of the original; lacking colour or
one of the least known – per- no, the building is spectacular.
haps because it lacks the curva- Sadly, it doesn’t deliver inside –
ture and “lightness” of the the display is small and old-
Parthenon’s design.The barrel- fashioned, with labels that look
vaulted roof dates from a as if they’ve been here since it
Byzantine conversion into the opened in 1957.The bulk of
church of Saint George. what you see is pottery and
The other church on the site coins from the sixth to the
– that of Áyii Apóstoli (the fourth century BC, plus some
Holy Apostles), by the south early Geometric grave offerings
entrance – is worth a look as – including red-figure dishes
you wander among the exten- depicting athletes, musicians and
sive foundations of the other minor deities, together with an
Agora buildings. Inside are frag- oil flask in the form of a
ments of fresco, exposed during kneeling boy. Look out for the
restoration of the eleventh- ostraka, or shards of pottery, with
century shrine. names written on them. At
annual assemblies of the citizens,
Stoa of Attalos these ostraka would be handed
Ancient Agora site. For some in, and the individual with most
background to the Agora, head votes banished, or “ostracized”,
for the Museum, housed in the from the city for ten years.
magnificent Stoa of Attalos.The
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61
Pláka
The largely pedestrianized area of Pláka, with its nar-
row lanes and stepped alleys climbing towards the
PLACES Pláka
Acropolis, is arguably the most attractive part of
Athens, and certainly the most popular with visitors. In
addition to a scattering of ancient sites and various off-
beat and enjoyable museums, it offers glimpses of an
older Athens, refreshingly at odds with the concrete
blocks of the metropolis.
Although surrounded by huge, even though let down somewhat
traffic-choked avenues, Pláka by poor lighting and labelling. Its
itself is a welcome escape, its nar- five floors are devoted to
row streets offering no through- collections of weaving, pottery,
routes for traffic even where you regional costumes and
are allowed to drive. Nineteenth- embroidery, along with other
century houses, some grand, traditional Greek arts and crafts.
some humble, can be seen every- On the mezzanine floor, the
where, their gateways opening carnival tradition of northern
onto verdant courtyards over- Greece and the all-but-vanished
looked by wooden verandahs. shadow-puppet theatre are
With scores of cafés and featured.The second floor
restaurants to fill the time features exhibits of gold and
between museums and sites, and silver jewellery and weaponry,
streets lined with touristy shops, much of it from the era of the
it’s an enjoyable place to wander. War of Independence.The
The main disadvantage is price – highlight, though, is on the first
things are noticeably more floor: the reconstructed room
expensive in Pláka than in much from a house on the island of
of the rest of the city. Lesvós with a series of wonderful
murals by the primitive artist
Museum of Greek Folk Art Theofilos (1868–1934), naïve
Kydhathinéon 17. Tues–Sun 10am–2pm. scenes from Greek folklore and
E2. The Folk Art Museum is one history, especially the
of the most enjoyable in the city, independence struggle.
SHOPS ON ADHRIANOÚ
Contents Places
62 KLADHOU IPPO
of Attalos U AGORAS
ADH
ON
RIA
OS
P I K I L IS RH NO
Fethiye Medresse
A
U
PA N
XI
Mosque Museum of Greek
TA
EPAM PELO
Ancient Agora INON P ID H Popular Musical
DA A
Entrance Instruments
Roman
IOU
P O LY G N O T O U
DHI
Forum 1 OYE
NOU
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VRI
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DHIO SKOU RON

K IR
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Apóstoli Tower of IS T
Pláka PLACES
UA
OU
MOUSEOU
the Winds
EO
KO
PA N O S
KL
Turkish
MAR
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KLEPSYDHRA
ISI
Baths
2 LIS
MN
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THR ASSIV SIO
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MITROÖU OU
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3
Museum of Greek THOLOU 6 7
EREK
Folk Art: Man & Tools 5
ARETOUSAS
THEORIA PRYT
S A N IO
Kanellopoulou U
Museum P RY T
ANAF IÓTI K A AN
IOU
Ayios
Athena Nikólaos
Promachos
Ragavás
STR
AT O
Agrippa
Monument Sacred
NO
Way Acropolis
Old Temple
S
Propylaia
Entrance
Parthenon Acropolis
Museum
Temple of
Athena Nike
Sanctuary Panayia
of Artemis Khryssospiliotissa
Chalkothek
Asklepion
THRA
SYLL
Odeion of
Theatre of Stoa of Eumenes Perikles
OU
Herodes Atticus
Theatre of
Dionysos
DHION
YSIOU
AREOP
AY I T O
EREKHTHIOU
U Entrance
PROPYLEON
PA RT HE NO
MAKRIYIÁNNI
N
Lalaounis
TIDHO
KALLISPERI
Museum
NO S
New Acropolis
MITSEO
K A R YA
0 100 m R O V Museum Site

ER TOU
GA
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Children’s Museum Permanent exhibits include

Kydhathinéon 14. Tues–Fri 10am–2pm, features on the Athens metro,
Sat & Sun 10am–3pm. Free. Aimed how computers work, and the
at the under-12s, the Children’s human body.
Museum is as much a play area
as a museum. Labelling is Frissiras Museum
entirely in Greek, and the place Monís Asteríou 3 and 7
is primarily geared to school wwww.frissirasmuseum.com.
groups, who take part in Wed–Thurs 11am–7pm, Fri–Sun
activities such as chocolate- 11am–5pm. E6. Housed in two
making – but it should keep beautifully renovated Neoclassical
young kids amused for a while. buildings, the Frissiras Museum is
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63
N
LOU
APOLLONO
S
IZE
Eleftheroudakis
VEN
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APOLL
TH O U
E.
SKOUF
S
AYIA S FILOT HEIS
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FI LE LL IN O
PLACES Pláka
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Compendium
N
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A Russian Church
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Jewish Museum
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EATING & DRINKING
YI TO U Brettos
IO U A RE O PA 16 Ionos 12
D H IO N YS Damingos Iy Klimataria 3
TZIREON
(Ta Bakaliarakia) 15 Nefeli 5

NNI
Daphne’s 14 Palea Taverna Tou Psarra 7

Dhioskouri 2 Palio Tetradhio 6
YIA
MAKRI
Akropoli Eden 4 O Platanos 1

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To Háni 13 Vyzandino 11
POR
billed as Greece’s only museum Rego among them – as well as

of contemporary European art. It many less obvious Greek and
has over three thousand works – other European artists.Temporary
mostly figurative painting plus a exhibitions, along with the shop
few sculptures, a regular and café, are at no. 3 a block
programme of exhibitions, a fine away.
shop and an elegant café.The
space at no. 7 houses the Centre of Folk Art
permanent exhibition, which and Tradition
includes plenty of names familiar Angelikís Hatzimiháli 6. Tues–Fri
to English-speakers – David 9am–1pm & 5–9pm, Sat & Sun
Hockney, Peter Blake, Paula 9am–1pm. Free. The Centre of
Contents Places
64
Folk Art and Tradition houses a Jewish Museum of Greece
collection of costumes, Níkis 39. wwww.jewishmuseum.gr.
embroidery, lace and weaving, Mon–Fri 9am–2.30pm, Sun
along with musical instruments, 10am–2pm. E3. Elegantly
ceramics, and icons and religious presented in a series of dimly lit
Pláka PLACES
artefacts. Appropriately, it rooms, with plenty of

occupies the former home of explanation in English, the
Angelikís Hatzimiháli, a famous Jewish Museum tells the history
ethnographer whose of Jews in Greece. Downstairs
championing of traditional are art and religious
Greek arts and crafts was one of paraphernalia, many of the
the chief catalysts for their pieces centuries old.The
revival in the early twentieth centrepiece is the reconstructed
century.The house itself – synagogue of Pátra, dating from
designed for her in the 1920s – the 1920s, whose furnishings
is a large part of the attraction, have been moved here en bloc
with its cool, high rooms and and remounted.
finely carved wooden doors, Upstairs, more recent history
windows and staircase. At the includes World War II and the
back, narrow stairs descend to German occupation, when
the kitchen with its original Greece’s Jewish population was
range, while upstairs there’s a reduced from almost 80,000 to
library and rooms where classes less than 10,000.There are fea-
are held to pass on the traditions tures, too, on the part played by
of crafts like embroidery and Jews in the Greek resistance, and
weaving. stories of those who survived
the Holocaust.
MONUMENT OF LYSIKRATOS
The Monument of Lysikratos

In the southeastern corner of
Pláka, the Monument of
Lysikratos, a tall and graceful
stone and marble structure from
335 BC, rises from a small, tri-
angular open area with a couple
of quiet tavernas. It’s near the
end of Odhós Tripódhon, a relic
of the ancient Street of the
Tripods, where winners of
drama competitions erected
monuments to dedicate their
trophies (in the form of tripod
cauldrons) to Dionysos.The
Monument of Lysikratos is the
only survivor of these triumphal
memorials. A four-metre-high
stone base supports six
Corinthian columns rising up to
a marble dome on which, in a
flourish of acanthus-leaf carv-
ings, the winning tripod was
placed.The inscription tells us
that “Lysikratos of Kikyna, son
Contents Places
KANELLOPOULOU MUSEUM
65
European travellers – Byron is
said to have written part of
Childe Harold here, and the
street beyond,Varonos, is named
after him.The old Street of the
PLACES Pláka
Tripods would have continued
in this direction – many impor-
tant ancient Athenian buildings
are thought to lie undiscovered
in the vicinity.
Ayía Ekateríni Church

Platía Ayía Ekateríni. May–Oct Mon–Fri
7.30am–12.30pm & 5–6.30pm, Sat &
Sun 5–10pm; Nov–April
7.30am–12.30pm, Sat & Sun 5–10pm.
Free. St Catherine’s Church is
one of the few in Pláka that’s
routinely open. At its heart is an
eleventh-century Byzantine
original – although it has been
pretty well hidden by later
additions.You can see it most
clearly from the back of the
church, while in the courtyard
in front are foundations of a
of Lysitheides, was choregos Roman building. Inside, the
(sponsor); the tribe of Akamantis over-restored frescoes look
won the victory with a chorus brand new, and there are plenty
of boys;Theon played the flute; of glittering icons.
Lysiades of Athens trained the
chorus; Evainetos was archon”. Kanellopoulou Museum
In the seventeenth century the Theorías 12, cnr Panós. Tues–Sun
monument became part of a 8.30am–3pm. E2. Though there’s
Capuchin convent, which pro- nothing here that you won’t see
vided regular lodgings for examples of in the bigger muse-
The Anafiótika
The main arteries of Pláka, above all Kydhathinéon with its crowds of restau-
rants and Adhrianoú, home of the Manchester United beach towel and “Sex in
Ancient Greece” playing cards, can become depressingly touristy. For a break,
climb up into the jumble of streets and alleys that cling to the lower slopes of
the Acropolis. There are still taverna tables set out wherever a bit of flat ground
can be found up here, but there are also plenty of quieter corners redolent of a
different era.
The whitewashed cubist houses of Anafiótika, as this quarter is known, pro-
claim a cheerfully architect-free zone. Many of the haphazard buildings were orig-
inally erected by workers from the island of Anáfi in the southern Aegean, who
were employed in the mid-nineteenth-century construction of Athens. Unable to
afford land, they took advantage of a customary law to the effect that if a roof and
four walls could be thrown up overnight, the premises were yours at sunrise.
Contents Places
66
ums, the Kanellopoulou collec- century provided the separate
tion, exhibited in the topmost facilities you see today. The
house under the Acropolis, is tepidarium and caldarium, fitted
well worth a visit. On the lower out in marble with domed
floors the many gorgeous gilded roofs and rooflights, are
Pláka PLACES
icons first grab your attention, particularly beautiful. The

but there’s also Byzantine jew- underfloor and wall heating
ellery, bronze oil lamps and systems have been exposed in
crosses, and Roman funerary places, while upstairs there are
ornaments; some of the smaller photos and pictures of old
items are exquisite. Athens. Labelling throughout is
Upstairs is ancient pottery and in Greek only, so it may be
bronze, including items from worth using the audio tour on
Minoan Crete and from Egypt, offer (e1, plus a deposit).
and Stone Age tools.The top
floor is perhaps the best of all,
with pottery and gold jewellery
from the Geometric, Classical,
Shops
Hellenistic and Roman periods. Amorgos
Items here range from some Kódhrou 3. A small handicraft
astonishingly well-preserved shop filled with tasteful
large water jars and kraters to the woodcarvings, needlework,
bronze ram from the prow of a lamps, lace and shadow
battleship, shaped like a dog’s puppets.
snout.
Cine Paris
Museum of Greek Folk Art: Kydhathinéon 22. Cult movies
Man and Tools shown on the rooftop, while at
Panós 22. Tues–Sat 9am–2pm. e2.
OLD HOUSES AGAINST ACROPOLIS WALLS
A brand-new branch of the
Greek Folk Art museum, in
another fine mansion, this is
devoted to the world of work.
The exhibits of tools and anti-
quated machinery concentrate
on the pre-industrial world,
with collections of agricultural
implements and the like.
Turkish Baths
Kirístou 8. Wed & Sun 10am–2pm.
Free. Constructed originally in
the 1450s, though with many
later additions, the Turkish
Baths were in use right up to
1965. Newly restored, they
offer an insight into a part of
Athens’ past that is rarely
glimpsed and are well worth a
look. Traditionally, the baths
would have been used in shifts
by men and women, although
expansion in the nineteenth
Contents Places
67
Frissiras Museum Shop
Monís Asteríou 3. Classy store in
this modern art museum selling
posters, cards and upmarket
gifts.
PLACES Pláka
Spyros Aravandinos
Adhrianoú 114. Perhaps the
ultimate tourist shop.With a
branch directly opposite at no.
95, between them they sell
every souvenir conceivable,
from shadow puppets, sponges
and shells to tacky T-shirts and
priapic Pans.
Tribos
Angélou Yéronda 9. Alternative gift
shop that’s more interesting
than most, with folk art and
puppets among the hippy
PLÁKA ALLEYWAY accoutrements.
street level there’s a small shop

where you can pick up that
poster of Gone With the Wind in
Bars
Greek you always hankered Brettos
after. Kydhathinéon 41 t210 32 32 110. By
day a liquor store, selling mainly
Compendium the products of their own family
Níkis 28. Long-established, distillery, at night Brettos is one
friendly and good-value of the few bars in Pláka. It’s a
English-language bookshop, simple, unpretentious place with
with a small secondhand barrels along one wall and a
section; it also sells magazines. huge range of bottles, backlit at
night, along another.
Eleftheroudakis
Níkis 20. Not as impressive as the
main branch of this bookshop
chain (see p.92), Eleftheroudakis
Cafés
still has a good selection of Dhioskouri
English-language books, maps Dhioskoúron, cnr Mitröon. Popular
and guides. café right on the edge of Pláka
overlooking the Agora. Simple
Elliniko Spiti food – salads and omelettes – as
Kekropós 14, just off Adhrianoú. well as the inevitable frappés
Amazing artworks and pieces of and cappuccinos.
furniture from found materials,
including driftwood metal and Galaktopolio Iy Amalthea
marble. Probably too big to take Tripódhon 16. Tasteful if pricey
home (for your wallet as well as “dairy”, serving mostly crêpes as
your suitcase), but well worth a well as non-alcoholic drinks.
look.
Contents Places
68
O Glykis Daphne’s
Angélou Yéronda 2. A secluded Lissikrátous 4 t210 32 27 971, wwww
corner under shaded trees just .daphnesrestaurant.gr. If you want to
off busy Kydhathinéon, impress the in-laws, this is the
frequented by a young Greek place to bring them. Everyone
Pláka PLACES
crowd. It has a mouthwatering from the Clintons through half of

array of sweets, as well as cold Europe’s royalty to Angelina Jolie
and hot appetizer plates. has eaten here – and they make
sure you know it. Classy Greek
Ionos food is served in an attractive
Angélou Yéronda 7. Good coffees courtyard out back – expect to
and snacks, but above all a great spend at least e50 a head.
place to people-watch on the
busy Platía Filomoússou Eterías. Eden
Lissíou 12, off Mnisikléous t210 32 48
To Tristrato 858. Closed Tues. The city’s oldest
Dhedhálou 34, cnr Angélou Yéronda. and classiest vegetarian restau-
Daily 2pm–midnight. Coffee, fruit rant, in a retro setting on the
juices, salads, eggs, desserts and ground floor of an old mansion.
cakes. Exquisitely decorated but Dishes include mushroom pie,
expensive. chilli and soya lasagne; portions
aren’t huge but are very tasty.
Restaurants To Háni
Adhrianoú 138 t210 32 28 966.
Damingos (Ta Bakaliarakia) Right in the heart of pedestri-
Kydhathinéon 41 t210 32 25 084. anized Adhrianoú, this slightly
Eves only; closed mid-July to end Aug. old-fashioned place has linen
Tucked away in a basement tablecloths and tables in a gar-
since 1865, this place has dour den courtyard at the rear as well
service, but the old-fashioned as on the street in front. Prices
style (hefty barrels in the back are high for standard Greek
room filled with the family’s food, justified by the position
home vintages including a and because they often have
memorable retsina, excellent cod good traditional music.
with garlic sauce and good
value make up for it. Iy Klimataria
Klepskdhras 5 t210 32 11 215. Eves
only. Having recently celebrated
TAVERNA TABLES
its centenary, this unpretentious
and pleasant
taverna has
decent
inexpensive food,
mainly grilled
meat and fish. In
winter, you’re
likely to be
treated to live
guitar and
accordion music,
which inspires
sing-alongs by
Contents Places
69
Palio Tetradhio
Mnisikléous 26, cnr Thrassívoulou
t210 32 11 903. One of the
tavernas with tables set out on
the stepped streets beneath the
PLACES Pláka
Acropolis.The food is a cut
above that of most of its
neighbours, though you pay for
the romantic setting.
O Platanos
Dhioyénous 4 t210 32 20 666. One
of the oldest tavernas in Pláka,
with outdoor summer seating
under the namesake plane tree
TAVERNA CLOSE-UP around the corner from the
Roman agora. Reasonably-
the mostly Greek clientele. In priced specialities include chops
the summer, the roof opens. and roast lamb with artichokes
or spinach and potatoes.The
Nefeli barrelled retsina is the real thing.
Pános 24, cnr Aretoúsas t210 32 12
475. Taverna eves only, Ouzerí open all Skholiarhio
day. Delightful setting, with Tripódhon 14 t210 32 47 605.
tables under a secluded grape Attractive, split-level taverna,
arbour or in an old mansion also known as Ouzerí Kouklis,
with a panoramic view, on a with a perennially popular
peaceful side street. Does a small summer terrace, screened from
but interesting selection of the street. It has a great selection
moderately priced classic Greek of mezédhes (e2–4 each),
dishes such as veal and lamb brought out on long trays so
stamna (casserole baked in a clay that you can point to the ones
pot).There’s live Greek music that you fancy. Especially good
most nights and a small dance are the flaming sausages, bouréki
floor.The adjacent synonymous (thin pastry filled with ham and
ouzerí, overlooking the church cheese) and grilled aubergine,
of Ayía Anna, is a busier local and the house red wine is
hangout favoured by young palatable and cheap.
Greeks.
Vyzandino
Palea Taverna Tou Psarra Kydhathinéon 18, on Platía
Erekhthéos 16 at Erotókritou t210 32 Filomoússou Eterías t210 32 27 368.
18 733. A restored old mansion Reliable, traditional taverna that
in a splendid setting, on a tree- still attracts locals on this busy,
shaded and bougainvillea-draped touristy square.Take a look in
pedestrian crossroads.You’re best the kitchen at the moderately
off sticking to the mezédhes, priced daily specials, such as
which include humble standards stuffed tomatoes, youvétsi and
as well as pricier seafood and the like.
fish dishes.
Contents Places
70
Monastiráki and Psyrrí

Monastiráki and Psyrrí are enjoyable parts of Athens.
Less touristy than Pláka to the south, there are never-
Monastiráki and Psyrrí PLACES
theless plenty of sights and extensive opportunities for

eating, drinking and shopping. The Monastiráki area
has been a commercial hub of the city since Roman
times at least. The Roman Forum is still one of the
major attractions here, and though the district is no
longer at the heart of the city’s business life, its streets
are still crowded with shops and offices. The area
around the Forum feels like an extension of Pláka, with
its narrow lanes and traces of the ancient. To the east,
though, Odhós Ermoú and parallel Mitropóleos are
noisier, busier and more geared to everyday living.
The traffic-free upper half of Roman Forum

Ermoú is one of the city’s prime Entrance at Pelopídha, cnr Eólou. Daily:
shopping streets: if you’re after April–Sept 8am–7pm; Oct–March
Zara or Marks & Spencer, 8.30am–3pm. E2 or joint Acropolis
Mothercare or Benetton, this is ticket. The Roman Forum was
the place to head for. Funkier built during the reign of Julius
shops can be found in the Flea Caesar and his successor
Market area around Platía Augustus as an extension of the
Monastirakíou. older ancient Greek agora. Its
Between them, Monastiráki main entrance was on the west
and Psyrrí probably have more side, through the Gate of Athena
eating places per square foot Archegetis, which, along with
than anywhere else in Athens. the Tower of the Winds (see
Their characters are quite differ- opposite), is still the most
ent, though. Monastiráki restau- prominent remain on the site.
rants tend to be simple and
ROMAN FORUM
functional – especially the line
of places that spills onto
Mitropóleos as it heads up from
Platía Monastirakíou.
Psyrrí is more of a place for an
evening out – home to a throng
of trendy restaurants, mezedhopolía
and bars. Buzzing till late every
evening, it doesn’t have a great
deal to offer by day, although the
cafés seem to attract crowds
whatever the time. Psyrrí’s own
website – wwww.psirri.gr – is an
excellent place to find out what’s
going on and lists virtually every
restaurant, bar, shop and gallery in
the area.
Contents Places
PLÁTIA MONASTIRAKÍOU
71
which have
been exca-
vated. Inside
the fenced
site, but just
PLACES Monastiráki and Psyrrí

outside the
market area
to the east,
are the
foundations
of public
latrines dat-
ing from the
first century
AD.
This gate marked the end of a The Tower of the Winds

street leading up from the Greek Roman Forum. The best preserved
agora, and its four surviving and easily the most intriguing of
columns give a vivid impression the ruins inside the Forum site is
of the grandeur of the original the graceful octagonal structure
portal. On the side facing the known as the Tower of the
Acropolis you can still make out Winds.This predates the Forum,
an engraved edict of Hadrian and stands just outside the main
announcing the rules and taxes market area. Designed in the first
on the sale of oil. On the oppo- century BC by Andronikos of
site side of the Forum, a second Kyrrhos, a Syrian astronomer, it
gateway is also easily made out, served as a compass, sundial,
and between the two is the mar- weather vane and water clock –
ketplace itself, surrounded by the last powered by a stream from
colonnades and shops, some of one of the Acropolis springs.
Roman Athens
In 146 BC the Romans ousted Athens’ Macedonian rulers and incorporated the
city into their vast new province of Achaia. The city’s status as a renowned seat
of learning and great artistic centre ensured that it was treated with respect,
and Athenian artists and architects were much in demand in Rome. Not much
changed, in fact: there were few major construction projects, and what build-
ing there was tended to follow classical Greek patterns.
The history of this period was shaped for the most part by the city’s alliances,
which often proved unfortunate. In 86 BC, for example, Sulla punished Athens for
its allegiance to his rival Mithridates by burning its fortifications and looting its
treasures. His successors were more lenient; Julius Caesar offered a free pardon
after Athens had sided with Pompey, and Octavian (Augustus) showed similar
clemency when Athens harboured Brutus following Caesar’s assassination.
The one Roman emperor who did spend a significant amount of time in Athens,
and left his mark here, was Hadrian (reigned 117–138 AD). Among his grandiose
monuments are Hadrian’s Arch, a magnificent and immense library and (though it
had been begun centuries before) the Temple of Olympian Zeus. A generation later,
Herodes Atticus, a Roman senator who owned extensive lands in Marathon,
became the city’s last major benefactor of ancient times.
Contents Places
72
Fruit &
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Entrance Sokaras R O S S 24
Museum of OU
Greek Folk Art Gold Rose
Ancient Agora Stavros Melissinos
25
MONASTIRÁKI
EATING & DRINKING Hadrian's
OS
Antica Cioccalateria 7 Iy Oréa Ellás 24 KLADHOU

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P I K ILI
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EPA Mosque PELO
Blaze-T 3 Iy Stoa Tou Vangeli 2 MIN
OND P ID H
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Roman Forum
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Bread Deli 25 Taverna Tou Psyrri 9 P O L Y G N O TO U

DHIOS KOUR ON
VRIL
Café Abysinia 19 O Thanasis 22 Tower of

UA
Café Kornarou 23 Vibe 11 the Winds

PA N O S
MARKO
Floral Art Café 6 Ydria 26

Furin Kazan 27 Yoga Bala 4 T HRA S Y VO U L
Gotzila 5 Zidhoron 12 MITROÖU OU
Iy Ipeiros 18 Zjthos 15 0 150 m
THOLOU
Mandhra 10
Each face of the tower is in the form of the sea god,

adorned with a relief of a figure Triton. In Ottoman times,
floating through the air, personi- dervishes used the tower as a
fying the eight winds. Beneath tekke or ceremonial hall, terrify-
each of these it is still possible ing their superstitious Orthodox
to make out the markings of neighbours with their chanting,
eight sundials. music and whirling meditation.
The semicircular tower
attached to the south face was Fethiye Tzami and the
the reservoir from which water medresse
was channelled into a cylinder In the area around the Roman
in the main tower; the time was Forum can be seen some of the
read by the water level viewed few visible reminders of the
through the open northwest Ottoman city.The oldest
door. On the top of the build- mosque in Athens, the Fethiye
ing was a bronze weather vane Tzami, built in 1458, actually
Contents Places
73
Un vers ty
OU Athens
GL University
ZO
ST
Meat & MA
ES OU
EOLOU
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Museum of Greek Mavropoulos
Popular Musical
INON
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occupies a corner of the Forum ence, this was used as a prison

site. It was dedicated by Sultan and was notorious for its bad
Mehmet II, who conquered conditions; a plane tree in the
Constantinople in 1453 (fethiye courtyard was used for hang-
means “conquest” in Turkish). ings.The prison was closed in
There’s a fine, porticoed the 1900s and most of the
entrance, but sadly, you can’t see building torn down. Also nearby
inside, as it’s now used as an are the Turkish Baths (p.66).
archeological warehouse.
Across Eólou from here, more Museum of Greek Popular
or less opposite the Forum Musical Instruments
entrance, the gateway and single Dhioyénous 1–3. Tues & Thurs–Sun
dome of a medresse, an Islamic 10am–2pm, Wed noon–6pm. Free.
school, survive. During the last Superbly displayed in the rooms
years of Ottoman rule and the of a Neoclassical building, the
early years of Greek independ- Museum of Greek Popular
Contents Places
74
Musical Instruments traces the Museum of Greek Folk Art:
history of virtually everything Ceramics Collection
that has ever been played in Áreos 1. April–Sept Tues–Sun
Greece, including (in the base- 8am–7pm; Oct–March Tues–Sun
ment) some more unusual festi- 8.30am–3pm. e2. Squeezed
val and liturgical instruments between the walls of Hadrian’s

such as triangles, livestock bells library and the shacks of
and coin garlands worn by carni- Pandhróssou stands the Mosque
val masquers. Reproductions of of Tzisdarákis. Built in 1759, it
frescoes show the Byzantine has had a chequered life – con-
antecedents of many instruments, verted to a barracks and then a
and headphone sets are provided jail after Greek independence,
so you can hear the music made before becoming the original
by the various exhibits. home of the Greek Folk Art
The museum shop has an Museum in 1918.Today, as a
excellent selection of CDs for branch of that museum, it hous-
sale, concentrating, not surpris- es the Kyriazópoulos collection
ingly, on traditional Greek music. of ceramics – the legacy of a
Thessaloníki professor. Good as
Hadrian’s Library it is, the collection is in all hon-
Áreos cnr Dhexíppou. Bordering the esty likely to excite you only if
north end of the Forum site, and you have a particular interest in
stretching right through from pottery; most people will proba-
Áreos to Eólou, stand the surviv- bly find the building itself, the
ing walls and columns of only one of Athens’ old
Hadrian’s Library, an enormous mosques whose interior can be
building that once enclosed a seen, at least as big an attraction.
cloistered court of a hundred Though missing its minaret,
columns.Though closed to the and with a balcony added inside
public, you get a good view from for the museum, plenty of origi-
outside of the many surviving nal features remain. In the airy,
columns, as well as an idea of the domed space, look out for the
sheer scale of the place. striped mihrab (the niche indicat-
ing the direction of Mecca), a
calligraphic inscription above the
entrance recording the mosque’s
founder and date, and a series of
niches used as extra mihrabs for
occasions when worshippers
could not fit into the main hall.
Monastiráki Flea Market

Platía Monastirakíou gets its
name from the little monastery
church (monastiráki) at its centre.
Full of vendors selling nuts and
lottery tickets, fruit stalls and
kiosks, this area has been a mar-
ketplace since Turkish times and
is still the heart of a bustling
commercial neighbourhood.
In each direction you’ll see
signs proclaiming that you are
CERAMICS MUSEUM
Contents Places
FLEA MARKET
75
The Kapnikaréa
Mon, Wed & Sat 8am–1pm; Tues, Thurs
& Fri 8am–12.30pm & 5–7.30pm; Sun
8–11.30am. Free. The pretty
Byzantine church of Kapnikaréa

marks more or less the begin-
ning of the upmarket shopping
on Ermoú, looking tiny in these
high-rise urban surroundings.
Originally eleventh century, but
with later additions, it has a
lovely little dome and a gloomy
interior in which you can just
about make out the modern
frescoes.The church is allegedly
named after its founder, a tax
collector (kapnós means smoke –
entering the famous Monastiráki in the Byzantine era a tax on
Flea Market.These days this is a houses was known as the smoke
bit of a misnomer – there’s plenty tax).
of shopping, but mostly of a very
conventional nature.To the east, Platía Mitropóleos
Odhós Pandhróssou is almost A welcome spot of calm among
entirely geared to tourists. One of the busy shopping streets sur-
the most famous and quirkiest of rounding it, Platía Mitropóleos –
the shops here is that of Stavros Cathedral Square – is home to
Melissinos, the “poet-sandalmaker two cathedrals.The modern
of Athens” (see p.76). Mitrópolis is a large, clumsy
West of Platía Monastiráki, the nineteenth-century edifice; the
flea market has more of its old old cathedral alongside it is
character, and among the tourist dwarfed by comparison, but infi-
tat you’ll find shops full of nitely more attractive.There is
handmade musical instruments, said to have been a church on
or chess and tavlí boards, as well this site since the very earliest
as places geared to locals selling days of Christianity in Athens.
bikes, skateboards or camping What you see now dates from
gear. An alley off Iféstou is the twelfth century, a beautiful
jammed with record and CD little structure cobbled together
shops, with a huge basement from plain and carved blocks
secondhand bookshop. Around from earlier incarnations – some
Platía Avyssinías shops special- almost certainly from that origi-
ize in furniture and junky nal church.
antiques: from here to
Adhrianoú, the relics of the real
flea market survive in hopeless
jumble-sale rejects, touted by a
cast of eccentrics (especially on
Sundays). Odhós Adhrianoú is at
its most appealing at this end,
with a couple of interesting
antique shops, and some shady
cafés overlooking the metro
lines, Agora and Acropolis.
KAPNIKARÉA CHURCH
Contents Places
76
Shops opens to Mitropóleos on one
side and Pandhróssou on the
2morrow other.There’s a wide selection
Kynnétou 3. Vintage women’s of traditional arts and crafts,
clothing store in the flea market especially ceramics and wood-
that also sells its own designs. carving, and mercifully little of
the hard sell often encountered
7+7 in the nearby flea market.
Iféstou 7. A choice selection of There’s also a quiet café.
old and new rock and Greek
music on vinyl and CD.There Museum of Greek Popular
are several other music places Musical Instruments
nearby in the flea market. Dhioyénous 1–3. Excellent selec-
tion of CDs of traditional Greek
Apriati music, albeit not cheap, plus
Mitropóleos 9, cnr Pendelis. some simple instruments to
Athenians love their jewellery, make your own.
and this designer store – sand-
wiched between old-fashioned National Welfare
jewellers – is typical of the inno- Organization
vative upmarket style of the city. Ipatías 6, cnr Apóllonos. Rugs,
embroideries, copperware – tra-
Fokas ditional craft products made in
Ermoú 11. Department store at remote country districts.
the heart of the fashion shop-
ping area. Nikos Mavropoulos
Platía Mitropóleos 10. From the
Gold Rose outside a glittering Aladdin’s
Pandhróssou 85. Interesting little cave, this is one of a number of
shop with a wide range of jew- wonderfully old-fashioned stores
ellery and decorative items, from behind the cathedral selling reli-
icons to body piercings and gious paraphernalia – icons,
even samurai swords. bible covers, robes, chandeliers
and much more.
Kendro Ellinikis Paradosis
Mitropóleos 59 or Pandhróssou 36. Stavros Melissinos
This pleasant upstairs emporium Pandhróssou 89. The “poet-
sandalmaker” of
Athens, Melissinos
was something of a
celebrity in the
1960s, hammering
out sandals for the
Beatles, Jackie
Onassis and the like;
it is said that John
Lennon sought him
out specifically for
his poetic musings on
wine and the sea,
which Melissinos
continues to sell
alongside the
CATHEDRAL SQUARE
Contents Places
77
footwear.The sandals translate tle of the main Ermoú shopping
better than the poems. strip. Similar cafés can be found
in many of the side streets north
Annita Patrikiadhou of Ermoú.
Pandhróssou 58. Genuine antiqui-

ties – pottery and coins mainly, Floral Art Café
some of them made into jew- Platía Ayíon Anaryíron. Next door to
ellery – are sold here, with offi- the Antica Cioccalateria, the Floral
cial export licences to guarantee has a summer roof terrace
authenticity and legality. Prices where you can escape the
are steep – but then many of crowds.
the items are over 2000 years
old. Iy Oréa Ellás
Mitropóleos 59 or Pandhróssou 36.
Studio Kostas Sokaras Tucked inside the Kendro
Adhrianoú 25. Overlooking the Ellinikis Paradosis store, this
Stoa of Attalos, this place is atmospheric café has a small but
packed with a wonderful jumble inspired selection of traditional
of antiques and curiosities, mezédhes at good prices.There’s
including old shadow puppets, also a great view of the rooftops
brass doorknobs, musical instru- of Pláka on the slope towards
ments, pistols and more. the Acropolis.
Yiannis Samouelian Ydria

Iféstou 36. Long-established Adhrianoú 68 cnr Eólou. Platía Paliás
musical instrument shop in the Agorás, just round the corner
heart of the flea market, selling from the Roman Forum, is
hand-made guitars, lyra and the packed with the tables of com-
like. peting cafés.This is one of the
best for a quiet coffee or break-
fast; they also serve more sub-
Cafés stantial meals.
Antica Cioccalateria
Platía Ayíon Anaryíron. It seems there’s
a café on every corner in Psyrrí,
Restaurants
but if you fancy a change from Baïraktaris
frappé this place serves thirty Mitropóleos 88, cnr Platía
types of chocolate drink as well Monastirakíou. Over a century
as a similar variety of teas. old, this lively restaurant occu-
pies two buildings, the walls
Bread Deli lined with wine barrels and
Adhrianoú 52. Inside a glossy new photos of celebrities. Some
shopping centre in the flea mar- tables are on the bustling pedes-
ket district, this café/bakery trian street, but for a cosier
offers a quiet retreat from the atmosphere eat inside with the
furore outside. Great cakes and local regulars, where there’s
other bakery treats, too. often impromptu live Greek
music.The straightforward,
Café Kornarou inexpensive menu includes sou-
Kornárou 4. A good place to break vláki, gyros and oven dishes such
your shopping trip for coffee as tsoutsoukakia (meatballs in
and a sandwich, just off the bus- tomato sauce).
Contents Places
78
Brachera Iy Palea Skala
Platía Avyssinías 3 t210 32 17 202. Lepeniótou 25, cnr Leokoríou t210 32
Eves (from 9pm) & Sun lunch only. 12 677. With seating inside an
Closed Mon. Upmarket, modern old house and on a terrace in
Greek and Mediterranean summer, this place is generally
café/bar/restaurant in a restored packed and lots of fun. Excellent

mansion overlooking the flea mezédhes and wine at reasonable
market. In summer, the roof gar- prices to accompany the
den offers views of the Acropolis. acoustic house band.
Café Abysinia Iy Stoa tou Vangeli

Kynnétou 7, Platía Avyssinías t210 32 Evripídhou 63 t210 32 51 513. Open
17 047. Tues–Sun 10am–1am, Sat & Mon–Sat 6am–9pm (market hours);
Sun 10am–7pm. With dining on closed Aug. Congenial taverna
two floors, this restaurant is one with an authentic Greek atmos-
of the best in Athens, popular phere, frequented by local work-
with a local alternative crowd. ers and liveliest during late
The food, moderately priced, is lunchtime.The decor includes
also alternative – a modern take songbirds in a huge cage and a
on traditional mezédhes. Live large butcher block in the cor-
music most weekday evenings ner where your meats are cut to
and weekend lunchtimes. order. It serves simple, inexpen-
sive taverna appetizers, soups,
Furin Kazan grills and abundant Greek salads.
Apóllonos 2 t210 32 29 170. Closed
Sun. Strikingly decorated and Taverna Platía Iróon
popular diner-style sushi bar in Platía Iróon 1 t 210 32 11 915. With
a central location. tables set out on the less crowded
square in Psyrrí, this is a great
Gotzila place for people-watching;
Ríga Palamídhou 5 t210 32 21 086. inside, there’s often live music in
Eves only. Sushi bar in this über the evening.The food includes
trendy little street off Platía excellent fava (hummus-like bean
Ayíon Anaryíron. Mostly a late- purée) and taverna standards,
night joint, and not badly priced. good value for the location.
Iy Ipeiros Taverna tou Psyrri

Ayíou Filípou, just off Adhrianoú t210 Eskhklou 12 t 210 32 14 923. One
32 45 572. Daytime only. Very basic, of the most original and cheap-
cheap taverna at the edge of est establishments in Psyrrí,
Monastiráki flea market – popu- offering tasty traditional fare,
lar with locals for lunch and usually including fresh fish and
handy for the Agora. some less well-known recipes.
Menu in deliberately obscure
Mandhra Greek only, so it may be easier
Ayíon Anaryíron 8, cnr Táki t210 32 to choose from the kitchen.
13 765. Popular place right by
the main square in Psyrrí, with O Thanasis
live music most evenings and Mitropóleos 69. Reckoned to be
standard taverna fare at prices the best souvláki and gyros place
that reflect the location. in this part of Athens, where
there’s plenty of competition.
Inexpensive, and always packed
Contents Places
79
with locals at lunchtime: there’s popular meeting place. Food is
no booking, so you’ll have to served during the day.
fight for a table.Watch for the
side dish of peppers, which are Soul Garden
unusually fiery. Evripídhou 65 t210 33 10 907.

Popular bar/restaurant with the
Yoga Bala emphasis on bar, serving Thai-
Ríga Palamídhou 5 t210 33 11 335. influenced food, with a garden
Eves only. A super-stylish, expen- in summer, fine cocktails and a
sive Indian restaurant done out top-floor club (Fri & Sat).
in gold and pink, catering to an
upmarket Psyrrí crowd.
Zidhoron
Clubs
Táki 10, cnr Ayíon Anaryíron t210 32 Blaze-T
15 368. Closed Aug. A typical Psyrrí Aristophánous 30 t210 32 34 823.
upscale mezhedopolío, painted Freestyle disco with sounds
bright yellow and in a great loca- ranging from hip-hop to techno.
tion right by the square. It serves
tasty Middle Eastern foods like Vibe
pastourmás, haloúmi and hummus, Aristophánous 1 t210 32 47 94.
as well as Greek favourites such Minimalist, Japanese-style decor
as baked feta, grilled peppers and and frequent “happenings” at
baked aubergine. this bar/club, featuring guest
DJs playing everything from
Zothos trance to house.
Karaïskáki 28 t210 33 14 601. This
“beer restaurant” lays more
emphasis on the beer than the
food – claiming to serve 120
Live music
beers plus eight from the barrel. Pinakothíki
The accompanying dishes have Ayías Théklas 5 t210 32 47 741.
an appropriately Germanic Closed Sun. Small, cosy folk music
influence. venue with appearances from
respected Greek and foreign
artists.
Bars
Astron
Táki 3 t697 74 69 356. Eves only.
One of Psyrrí’s busiest bars –
partly perhaps because it’s so
small – which gets really packed
when the guest DJs crank it up
later on.
Bee
Miaoúli 6 cnr Thémidos t210 32 12
624. Closed Sun. Thanks to a loca-
tion right by an exit from
Monastiráki metro station on
the way up to Psyrrí, this cool,
modern, moodily lit bar is a
CAFÉ IN PSYRRÍ
Contents Places
80
Thissío, Gázi and Áno

Petrálona
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES
West of the Acropolis rise three substantial hills:

Filopáppou, Pnyx and the Hill of the Nymphs. Easily
accessed from Dhionysíou Areopayítou or Apóstolou
Pávlou, the pedestrianized streets that run around the
Acropolis site, they offer famous views of the city, look-
ing down over the Acropolis itself. There are also plenty
of paths for not too strenuous walking.
On the far side of Filopáppou Between them, these places
lies the quiet, residential neigh- offer some excellent and
bourhood of Áno Petrálona, authentic eating and drinking
among the least spoilt in Athens, options – a welcome antidote to
and with some of the city’s best Plaka’s tourist traps.You’ll find
tavernas. everything from the lively,
Thissío, to the north of here, is youth-oriented bars and restau-
an increasingly fashionable rants of Gázi to positively sleepy,
address where new bars and old-fashioned tavernas in Áno
cafés are edging out the more Petrálona.Thissío, easily accessed
traditional places. by metro, has a good mix, with
The Kerameikos site, north some of the best night-time
again, is remarkably little visited views of the Acropolis from
considering the riches inside – cafés around the traffic-free
above all, the remains of the main junction of Apóstolou Pávlou
cemetery of ancient Athens. and Iraklidhón. It also provides
Gázi, to the west and north of some lively nightlife, drawing a
Kerameikos, is a former industrial younger crowd. In Gázi, the
area where the reinvention of the trendy spots are more scattered,
old gasworks as the Tekhnópolis and the streets, some partly
cultural centre has sparked a rush derelict, can feel threatening at
of alternative bars and restaurants. night, so you may want to take
DHIONYSÍOU AREOPAYÍTOU
Contents Places
81
AHIL OS N
DH
L LLE
EOS AHI
EL
KO
Athinaïs &
IY
LO
IAS
Pieridhes Museum of
IO
NO
RY
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PLACES Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona

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PSYRRÍ
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ORFEOS M Thissio ERMOU
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S Camel Flea Market
ES
IRAKLIDHON Entrance
TH
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VA S
IR ILIS
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THISSÍO NILEO
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EX
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N TOS
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HO
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APO
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SSA
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DO
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PAV
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RA
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KO
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EATING & DRINKING

UM
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Athinaion Politeia 12 Mamacas 6

RO
TR
Barfly 4 Skoufias 16
ON
7 KO
TaUSokakia
K A K I tou
I
OIS Dirty Ginger

IRR Dirty Str-eat 2 Thiakou 19
KALL I
L DHAR 45° 5 Stavlos 11
I TSA
PA N AY Ikonomou 14 To Steki tou Ilia 10
T HISSEOS Interni 8 T’Askimopapo 17
Khrysa 15 Thalatta 9
0 300 m Kirki 13 Votanikos 1
To Koutouki 18 Zei 3
Contents Places
82
a taxi. Gázi is a late-night place: capped by a grandiose monu-
there’s not much point trying to ment to a Roman senator and
eat before 9, or drink before 11 consul, Filopappus, who is
– preferably later. It really depicted driving his chariot on its
comes into its own late on frieze.To the west is the Dora
Friday night and over the week- Stratou Theatre (see p.169). On
end – by day, and early in the the way up the hill, the main
week, it can be deserted. Áno path follows a line of truncated
Petrálona, too, is a short taxi ancient walls, past the attractive
ride from the centre, and most sixteenth-century church of
places are also easily accessible Áyios Dhimítrios, inside which
from Petrálona metro. are some original Byzantine fres-
coes. Further down, in the rock-
Filopáppou Hill face near the base of the hill, you
A network of paths leads from can make out a kind of cave
traffic-free Dhionysíou dwelling, known (more from
Areopayítou, below the imagination than evidence) as the
Acropolis entrance, up prison of Socrates.
Filopáppou Hill, also known in
antiquity as the “Hill of the The Pnyx
Muses” (Lófos Mousón). It pro- The Hill of the Pnyx was used
vides fabulous views of the in Classical Athens as the meet-
Acropolis and the city beyond, ing place for the democratic
especially at sunset (although assembly, which gathered more
night-time muggings have than forty times a year. All
occurred here, so take care). except the most serious political
This strategic height has played issues were aired here, the hill
an important, if generally sorry, on the north side providing a
role in the city’s history. In 1687 convenient semicircular terrace
it was from here that the shell from which to address the
that destroyed the roof of the crowd. All male citizens could
Parthenon was lobbed; more vote and, at least in theory, all
recently, the colonels placed tanks could voice their opinions,
on the slopes during their coup though the assembly was harsh
of 1967.The hill’s summit is on inarticulate or foolish speak-
VIEW FROM FILOPÁPPOU HILL
Contents Places
83
ers.There are some impressive
remains of the original walls,
which formed the theatre-like
court, and of stoas where the
assembly would have taken

refreshment.This atmospheric
setting provides commanding
Acropolis views, while benches
on the west side allow you to
contemplate the vista across
Pireás and out to sea.
Hill of the Nymphs

Observatory wwww.noa.gr. Open first
Fri of every month. The Hill of the
Nymphs (Lófos Nymfón) is so
called because nymphs were
associated with the dusty whirl-
winds to which this hill is par-
ticularly prone. Slightly lower
and quieter than its better- OBSERVATORY
known neighbours, it’s a peace-
ful place with good views across To the right of the entrance
to the western suburbs of can be seen the double line of
Athens and beyond, as well as the city wall.The inner wall
pleasant shaded walks.The sum- was hastily cobbled together by
mit is dominated by the impres- the men, women and children
sive Neoclassical bulk of the of Athens in 479 BC while
National Observatory of Athens. Themistocles was pretending to
First opened in 1842, though negotiate a mutual disarmament
with many later additions, it has treaty with Sparta. Two roads
been in operation as a research pierced the wall here: the great
institute ever since. Dipylon Gate was the busiest in
the ancient city, where the road
Kerameikos from Pireás, Eleusis and the
Entrance on Ermoú. Entry included in north entered; the Sacred Gate
joint Acropolis ticket. Providing a was a ceremonial entrance
fascinating and quiet retreat where the Ierá Odhós or Sacred
from the Acropolis, the Way entered the city – it was
Kerameikos site encompasses, used for the Eleusinian and
among other things, a section of Panathenaic processions (see
the old city wall, two important p.54 and p.137).
gates to the city, the Pompeion, Between the two gates are the
from which ceremonial proces- foundations of the Pompeion,
sions started, and, above all, part a spacious building with a peri-
of the principal cemetery of style courtyard, used for the
ancient Athens, which lay just preparation of festival proces-
beyond the walls. Always peace- sions and where the sacral items
ful, there’s something of an oasis used at the Panathenaic proces-
feel about the place, with the sion were stored. Branching off
lush Iridhanós channel, speckled to the left from the Sacred Way,
with water lilies, flowing across the Street of the Tombs, which
it from east to west. is actually the old road to Pireás,
Contents Places
Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona PLACES 84
KERAMEIKOS SITE
heads through the cemetery. has been converted into a

The burial mounds that have stunning series of spaces for
been excavated along either side concerts and changing
were reserved for the plots of exhibitions, mostly of
wealthy Athenians. Some twenty contemporary art and
can be seen, each containing photography.Two round gas-
numerous commemorative holders have become circular
monuments, and their original glass offices – one for Athens
stones or replicas reinstated.The 98.4FM, the other for
flat, vertical stelae were the main Tekhnópolis administration –
funerary monuments of the while in the various pumping
Classical world; the sarcophagi stations and boiler rooms
that you see are later, from the surrounding them, galleries and
Hellenistic or Roman periods. exhibition halls of varying sizes,
The sculpted crescent with the as well as a café, have been
massive base to the left of the created, many with parts of the
path is the Memorial of original machinery preserved.
Dexileos, a 20-year-old warrior The only permanent display
who died in battle in 394 BC; here is a small Maria Callas
there’s a relief scene of Dexileos Museum (Mon–Fri
on his horse.The adjacent plot 10am–5pm; free), whose
contains the Monument of collection of personal letters and
Dionysios of Kollytos, in the photos, plus a pair of gloves and
shape of a pillar stele supporting a fur coat, is really for fans only.
a bull.There are also many more
humbler monuments, such as Athinaïs
the poignant statue of a girl Kastoriás 34–36 t210 34 80 000,
with a dog on the north side of wwww.athinais.com.gr. A
the street. magnificent restoration of an
early twentieth-century silk
Tekhnópolis factory, the Athinaïs complex
Pireós 100 t210 34 67 322, contains a theatre, music space,
wwww.athens-technopolis.gr.The movie screen, two restaurants, a
former gasworks from which bar and café, exhibition halls, a
the Gázi district takes its name museum and, the real purpose
Contents Places
85
of the place, a sizeable
conference centre.The
Restaurants
Pierídhes Museum of Barfly
Ancient Cypriot Art (daily Voutádhon 34 t210 34 60 347. Eves
9.30am–1pm; E3) is beautifully only. One of the “neo-

presented in four small galleries, industrial”- style eating places
with some top-class exhibits popping up all around the Gázi
including ceramics and very area, Barfly is a moderate-to-
early glassware – although it expensive American-style diner
might seem strange to be with Mediterranean overtones.
admiring these Cypriot objects Good burgers with just a touch
in Athens.The museum shop is of Greece.
full of lavish (and lavishly
priced) arty gifts, while upstairs Dirty Ginger
are art galleries with temporary Cnr Triptolémou 46 & Persefónis t210
exhibitions. Details of what’s on 34 23 809. Summer only: Mon–Fri
can be found on the website or eves only, Sat & Sun daytime & eves.
in the local press. A tasty mixture of Greek and
foreign food at moderate prices,
with garden seating in the
Shops summer.With lively recorded
Greek music, it attracts a young
Dimitris Vasiliou crowd.
Adhrianoú 1, Thissío t 210 33 16 433.
A neat little craft shop in Dirty Str-eat
Monastiraki’s Flea Market. Items Triptolémou 12 t 210 34 74 763. Eves
on sale include attractive and only, closed Sun. This mid-range to
colourful ceramics and expensive restaurant has now
handmade jewellery from the expanded its menu to include
Cyclades Islands. meat in addition to the wide
selection of seafood – from
sardines and smelt to thick fillets
Cafés of sea bass and snapper.
Athinaion Politeia Ikonomou

Apostólou Pávlou, cnr Akamántos. An Cnr Tróön & Kydhantídhon t 210 34 67
enviable position in an old 555. Basic, moderately priced
mansion, with great views from home cooking served to packed
the terrace towards the pavement tables in summer.
Acropolis, makes this an Recommended dishes are rabbit
excellent place to relax over a stew and oven-baked lamb.
frappé. Light meals also served.
Interni
Kirki Ermoú 152 t210 34 68 900. Eves
Apostólou Pávlou 31 t210 34 69 960. only, closed Mon & Tues. Catering
Another café with a fabulous for a youngish clientele, Interni,
Acropolis view from its outdoor with its minimalist decor,
tables, serving good mezédhes as stresses Greek-European fusion
well as drinks and ice creams. food for serious diners and an
Popular with the clientele of the easy “food bar” option for those
late-night gay club (Lizard) with less time.
upstairs.
Contents Places
86
Khrysa Stavlos
Dhimofóndos 81 t210 34 12 515. Iraklidhón 10 t210 34 67 206.
Eves only, closed June–Sept. Classy Originally used as royal stables
and fairly pricey restaurant with during the nineteenth century,
some pavement seating, serving now one of the more popular
international cuisine like meeting points in the area, this

smoked salmon and duck in hip hangout is as much an
various sauces, including curry. eating place as a bar, gallery and
cafeteria.The food is a
To Koutouki moderately priced mixture of
Lakíou 9 t210 34 53 655. Closed Sun. fast fusion and standard Greek
Like a country house with roof classics.
seating overlooking Filopáppou
Hill, tucked just inside the To Steki tou Ilia
flyover, this inexpensive, Eptahálkou 5 t210 34 58 052. Closed
traditional taverna serves good Sun. This mid-range taverna on
mashed butter bean fáva and the pedestrianized road up
grilled meat. towards Thissío station is so
popular the owners have opened
Mamacas a namesake 200m further down.
Persefónis 41 t210 34 64 984. One Renowned for some of the
of the restaurants that made finest lamb chops in the city.
Gázi fashionable, and still a
favourite with the young, T’Askimopapo
fashionable and well heeled. Iónon 61 t210 34 63 282. Closed
Traditional Greek food, Oct–April. A wonderful winter
mezédhes-style, with a modern taverna with unusual, reasonably
twist. It’s fairly pricey, and like priced dishes like meat in
everywhere here doesn’t get creamy sauces, and rooftop
lively till late – some time after dining for balmy days.
midnight the DJs take over. Best
to book. Thalatta
Vítonos 5 t210 34 64 204. Closed
Skoufias Sun. Housed in a modernistic,
Tróön 63 t210 34 12 210. Eves only, marine-themed dining area, the
closed Sun. A pleasant and fairly pricey Thalatta (“sea” in
modern variation on the Greek Ancient Greek) specializes in
taverna scene, with a variety of fish.Young in style and options,
mid-range seasonal dishes – the the menu is fresh, creative and
honey-roast pork is the house busy.
speciality.
Votanikos
Ta Sokakia tou Thiakou Kastoriás 34–36 t210 34 80 000. A
Stratigoú Kolokotróni 58 t 210 92 49 big, modern-brasserie style place
614. A large, mid-priced taverna in the Athinaïs complex, serving
known for its pasta with lobster, modern Greek food, as well as
lamb chops and mixed salads. salads and the like. Mid-range to
Friendly management and expensive.
service, with outdoor tables on a
small square and live Greek Zei
music on weekends. Artemisíou 4, cnr Keramikoú t210 34
60 076. Eves and Sun lunch only;
closed Mon & Tues. Charming old
Contents Places
87
house serving imaginative mainly a young crowd; Fridays
Anatolian and Greek mezédhes feature music from the 1980s.
in an enclosed courtyard. Best
Thurs–Sat when it’s busy and Cone
there’s live rebétika and laïká Triptolémou 35, Gázi t 210 34 58 118.

music. Daily midnight–4.30am. Small gay
club that packs in the crowds
with Greek music.
Bars Floga
45° Perséfonis 19, Gázi t 210 34 13 952.
Lákhou 18, cnr Voutadhon. A big, Daily 10pm–4am. Relaxed, upstairs
lively rock-music themed gay bar/club with a view over
bar/café which makes a good the Tekhnópolis centre.
place to meet up in Gázi.
Raj Club
Stavlos Plateía Ayíon Asomáton, Thissío t 210
Iraklidhón 10 t210 34 67 206. In the 62 77 382. Opens midnight.
heart of the Thissío bar area, this Scattered over three levels, the
daytime café/bar/restaurant Raj dishes out a mix of
evolves at night into a funky mainstream dance to a backdrop
bar/club with jazz and soul of ethnic, Japanese and 1970s
sounds. decor motifs. Guest DJs make
occasional appearances.
Clubs Sodade
Triptolémou 10, Gázi t 210 34 68 657.
Camel Club Daily 11pm–3.30am. Stylish gay
Iraklidhón 74, Thissío t 210 34 76 crowd and great music – one
847. Opens 11.30pm. Indie rock room plays Greek and
and pop music are the themes at mainstream, the other quality
this newish bar club, drawing dance music.
Contents Places
88
Platía Omonías and

around
Platía Omonías and around PLACES
While Pláka, Sfndagma and Kolonáki are resolutely

geared to tourists and the Athenian well-heeled, Platía
Omonías (Omónia Square) and its neighbouring streets
revolve around everyday commerce and trade. Chaotic,
gritty and working class, Omónia in fact couldn’t be more
different from ordered, chic and urbane Sfndagma.
It is, however, one of the liveliest with imported manufactured
areas of Athens and boasts an goods, still reflect their origins in
extensive patchwork of small the Oriental souk system in the
shops and bazaars plying way that they are grouped
everything from power tools to together by specialization.
flowers, punctuated with vast Electrical goods, for example,
markets selling an abundance of dominate on Platía Klafthmónos
fresh produce. and Aristídhou, while food stores
As far as more conventional cluster around the central market
sights go, the area is home to a in the middle, especially along
clutch of small though quite Evripídhou, and clothes are
enjoyable specialist museums and found on Eólou and Ayíou
a series of elegant Neoclassical Márkou.
buildings strung out between Barrelling resolutely southwards
Sandagma and Omónia, a legacy from Omónia Square towards the
of the ambitious building Acropolis, throbbing Odhós
programme that followed Athinás, once the area’s red-light
Greece’s independence in 1821. district par excellence and now
The core of the city’s modern home to a bustling series of
market or bazaar is concentrated markets and small shops, offers
on Athinás and Eólou streets.The some of the most compelling
stores, though stocked mainly sights, sounds and smells of urban
Athens as East and West mingle
in a riotous blend of cultures and
peoples.
The meat and seafood market

Cnr Athinás and Evripídhou. The liveli-
est of the markets is the meat and
seafood market, set in a grand
nineteenth-century building. Its
fretted iron awnings shelter
forests of carcasses and mounds of
hearts, livers and ears – no place
for the squeamish. In the middle
section of the hall is the fish mar-
ket, with all manner of bounty
from the sea glistening on marble
slabs.
OMÓNIA SQUARE
Contents Places
89
N
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Contents Places
Platía Omonías and around PLACES 90
SEAFOOD MARKET
the heart of Athens for a good

The fruit and vegetable bazaar portion of the population. A
Athinás. The fruit and vegetable continuous turmoil of people
bazaar is arrayed around a and cars, it is Athens at its earth-
suspended archeological dig. iest and most urban. As one of
Grocers pile their stalls high the principal interchanges on
with sacks of pulses, salt cod, the expanded metro, the under-
barrels of olives and wheels of ground section has been totally
cheese. made over and is now stripped
Just west of here, Athens’ of the dingy shops it once
increasing multi-ethnicity is evi- housed, while the square above
dent in the streets around has been undergoing phases of
Evripídhou, where a growing seemingly perpetual renovations
community from South Asia, and makeovers.The perimeter
predominantly Bengalis, gathers of the square is dominated by
in large numbers around the kiosks selling everything from
spice-rich minimarkets and watchstraps to porn, clustered in
cheap and cheerful curry houses front of a mish-mash of shops
now springing up. and fast-food outlets.Though
slightly seedy in atmosphere, the
The flower market square and its surrounds are as
Eólou. The flower market, gath- safe as anywhere else in the city.
ered around the church of Ayía
Iríni, has stalls throughout the National Historical Museum
week, but really comes alive with Stadhíou 13. Tues–Sun 9am–2pm. e3.
the crowds on a Sunday morn- The National Historical
ing. Eólou itself also offers fine Museum focuses on Greek
views: walk it north to south, history from the Fall of
coming from Omónia, and your Constantinople through to the
approach takes you towards the time of King Otto.There’s a
rock of the Acropolis, with the strong section on the War of
Erechtheion’s slender columns Independence that includes
and pediment peeking over the Byron’s sword and helmet.
edge of the crag. Unfortunately, minimal labelling
leaves the visitor a little short of
Platía Omónias the historical context of the
Platía Omónias has little to offer displays.There are also
in terms of aesthetics, but it is photographic archives, an
Contents Places
91
ethnographic collection, a kitchenware, crockery and deco-
library and historical archives. rations, as well as rich collec-
tions of furniture displayed in a
City of Athens Museum series of lavish period rooms
Paparigopoúlou 5–7, Platía which include the king’s throne

Klafthmónos wwww.athenscitymuse- room as well as his personal
um.gr. 10am–2pm, closed Tues. e5. office and that of his wife and
The City of Athens Museum is consort Amalia.There is also a
concerned with a fairly narrow fascinating model of the city as
period of modern Greek history it was in 1842, with just three
– the reign of King Otto and hundred houses and a section of
Athenian cultural life in the the ancient city walls.
post-Otto period, and is housed
in two of the oldest buildings in Numismatic Museum
the city of Athens.The main Panepistimíou 12. Tues–Sun
building was the residence of 8.30am–3pm. e3. Housed in a
the German-born King Otto in grand building, this vast collec-
the 1830s before the new palace tion comprises over 600,000
(now the Parliament, on coins, ranging from Mycenaean
Sandagma) was completed in times through Classical,
1843. Appropriately enough, Macedonian and Roman to
one floor is dedicated to the Byzantine and the modern era.
royal couple. Highlights include In addition, there are weights,
their exquisitely furnished pri- lead stamps, medals, precious
vate studies, dining room and stones and a rich archive of
throne room. documents.
The second building is con-
nected to the first via a covered
walkway and comprises a col-
lection of period furniture as
Shops
well as an art gallery. Bachar
The museum’s exhibits include Evripídhou 31. Aromatic bags of
paintings and prints, carvings teas, herbs and medicinal
and everyday items such as remedies in large sacks.
LITTLE INDIA
Contents Places
92
Eleftheroudhakis is reasonably priced and stocks
Panepistimíou 17.The city’s best just about everything you could
bookshop, with five floors of want. It has several floors of
English books.There’s also an clothes, as well as a top-floor
Internet café and an excellent café with Acropolis views.
cafeteria with a large selection

of vegetarian dishes and sweets. Lalaounis
Panepistimíou 6. Home-base outlet
Iy Folia tou Vivliou of the world-renowned family
(The Book Nest) of goldsmiths, whose designs are
Panepistimíou 25, in the arcade and superbly imaginative and very
upstairs. The city’s most eclectic expensive.
selection of English-language
fiction, with a good collection Lambropoulos
of recent academic work on Eólou 99 t210 32 45 811. One of
Greece, and back issues of the Athens’ oldest and biggest
Korfes hiking magazine.There’s department stores,
also a full-sized travel shop on Lambropoulos is also one of the
the ground floor, with the biggest, stocking clothes,
complete line of Rough Guides household goods, sporting
and Anavasi maps. goods and electrical items at
reasonable prices.
Hondos Centre
Platía Omónias 4 t210 52 82 804. Road Editions
The city’s top department store; Ippokrátous 39. Has a good mix of
though it’s definitely no Harrods English and Greek travel guides,
– low-ceilinged, cramped and plus their own and other
crowded – the Hondos Centre companies’ maps.
Xylouris
Panepistimíou 39, in the arcade. Run
by the widow of the late, great
Cretan singer Nikos Xylouris,
this is currently one of the best
places for Greek popular, folk
and (of course) Cretan music.
Stocks items unavailable
elsewhere.
Restaurants
Athinaïkon
Themistokléous 2 t210 38 38 485.
Closed Sun. An old ouzerí that has
recently relocated, but without
losing its style – marble tables,
old posters, etc. Good-sized,
mid-priced mezédhes include
shrimp croquettes and mussels
simmered with cheese and
peppers.
PERIPTERO, OMÓNIA
Contents Places
VANGELIS TAVERNA
93
Lefteris
Satovriándhou 20 t210 52 25
676. A simple, cheap to
mid-range grill restaurant
serving decent souvláki,

special stuffed beef patties
and mayireftá; the draught
wines are also very good.
To Monastiri
Central meat market (entrance
from Eólou 81). Open 24hr.
The best of the three
restaurants here; the raw
Bar Guru Bar ingredients are certainly fresh,
Platía Theátrou 10 t210 32 46 530. and it serves patsás (tripe and
Busy and sometimes noisy “fun trotter soup), reputedly a good
restaurant” with a Thai twist. hangover cure.
The moderately priced dishes
are pretty authentic, though Nargis
dressed up to appeal to its fast, Sofokléous 60 t210 52 48 775.
funky clientele. Tucked inside a stoa, this small
Bengali canteen wins no prizes
Cellier le Bistrot for decor, but has an authentic
Panepistimíou 12 t210 36 38 525. Indian atmosphere and meat
With a Greek/international and vegetarian curries at very
menu and a wide selection of low prices.
wines, all dishes are carefully
prepared and well presented. It’s Pak Indian
popular with the business com- Menándhrou 13 t210 32 19 412. A
munity for lunch, while at night beautiful Indian restaurant,
there’s live piano music. somewhat at odds with its
surroundings.The food is
Ideal excellent – fresh and delicately
Panepistimíou 46 t210 33 03 000. spiced, and there’s interesting
Closed Sun. A mid-range (recorded) music, as well as the
restaurant with bright, cheerful occasional live concert.
art deco decor, serving
traditional, old-style mayireftá, Taÿgetos
imaginative daily specials and a Satovriándhou 4 t210 52 35 352.
decent selection of foreign- Closed Sun. A no-frills, budget
inspired dishes. restaurant with great souvláki,
grilled lamb and chicken sold by
Klimataria the kilo.There’s also a decent
Platía Theátrou 2 t210 32 16 629. A selection of mayireftá and
mid-range, old-world type of palatable draught wine.
taverna with rightly popular
sessions of Smyrna-inspired Vangelis
rebétika music sessions. It serves Sahíni 6, cnr Liossíon (sign in Greek).
a variety of rich mezédhes, with One of the friendliest and most
carafes of ouzo or draught authentic tavernas in central
retsina. Athens, with a relaxing garden
in use in summer. Mixture of
Contents Places
94
grilled and oven food with The city’s most important venue
superb kondosoúvli and kokorétsi for foreign and Greek rock, soul
their real speciality. Handy for and reggae groups – there’s a
the train station. good atmosphere in this
converted cinema.
Live music Stoa Athanaton

Sofokléous 19 t210 32 14 362.
Elatos 3–6pm & midnight–6am; closed Sun &
Trítis Septemvríou 16 t210 52 34 May–Aug. Rebétika place fronted
262. Closed Wed. An eclectic by bouzoúki veterans
assortment of dhimotiká. Hondronakos and company, and
serving good taverna food at
Rodon reasonable prices, but drinks are
Márni 24, Platía Váthis, Ambelókipi expensive.
t210 52 47 427. Closed in summer.
Contents Places
95
The Archeological
Museum, Exárhia and
PLACES The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli

Neápoli
Traditionally the stomping ground of anarchists, revolu-
tionaries, artists and students, the area to the north of
the main thoroughfares is nowadays home to a slightly
more sedate, though still bohemian, crowd. The area’s
outstanding highlight is the fabulous National
Archeological Museum, one of the world’s top ten
museums and an essential stop on any tour of Athens.
There are few specific sights (Polytekhnío), the university’s

otherwise, but it’s a rewarding school of engineering and sci-
part of the city for a wander – ence, played a significant role in
restaurants, cafés and bookshops recent Greek history. In
abound in the studenty area of November 1973 students here
Exárhia, while nearby Neápoli is launched a protest against the
home to a swathe of good, low- repressive regime of the
key tavernas, many featuring colonels’ junta, occupying the
rebétika-style atmosphere and building and courtyards. In
sometimes the music itself. response, snipers fired indiscrim-
Overlooking Neápoli, the little- inately into the protestors. Even
visited Stréfis Hill (Lófos tou today, nobody knows how many
Stréfi) provides a welcome break unarmed students were killed –
from the densely packed streets estimates range from twenty to
and affords fine views of the city. three hundred.The anniversary
While not a tourist sight as of the massacre is still commem-
such, the Neoclassical building orated by marches and sombre
housing the Polytechnic remembrance celebrations.
EXÁRHIA SQUARE
Contents Places
96
Bus Terminal (10m)
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U
National Archeological art.The biggest attraction is

Museum Schliemann’s gold finds from
Patissíon 44. e6. w www.culture.gr. Grave Circle A at Mycenae,
The National Archeological especially the funerary Mask of
Museum is an unrivalled treasure Agamemnon.The Mycenaeans’
house of Cycladic, Minoan, consummate art of intricate dec-
Mycenaean and Classical Greek oration is evident in a superb
Contents Places
97
EATING & DRINKING
After Dark 19 Intriga 6
Alexandra 15 Iy Lefka 16
Alexandria 1 L.A. Rock 7
Barba Yannis 13 O Pinaleon 17
Decadence 4 Recital 3
Pedhío Epistrofi Stin Ithaki 12 Rozalia 10

Exostrefis 8 To Steki tis Xanthis 9
tou Áreos Fairy Tale 2 Wunderbar 5
A Fournos 18 Yiandes 14
LE Iy Gonia 11
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Rebetikí lstoría
I P P O K R AT O U S
FANARIOTON
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NIKIFOROU OURANOU S N KO RI NEAPOLEOS

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golden-horned Bull’s Head and a suit of boar, and bull-vaulting

miniature golden owl and frog reminiscent of Knossós, and a
from Nestor’s palace at Pylos. large mixing bowl (krater) with a
Important finds from Tiryns chariot and warriors. Other
include Cretan-style frescoes delights are superb painted cups,
depicting chariot-borne women with their scenes of wild bulls
watching spotted hounds in pur- and long-tressed, narrow-waisted
Contents Places
98
men, and an eye-catching cup pieces on display are various
decorated with twining octopus- copies of the lost Pheidias
es and dolphins. Further refer- Athena, the original centrepiece
ences to Homer abound, most of the Parthenon.
notably a magnificent Boar’s Tusk
Helmet and an ivory lyre with Lófos tou Stréfi (Stréfis Hill)
sphinxes adorning the sound- Lying between the suburbs of
board. Neápoli and Exárhia, this sud-
The large collection of den break in the monotony of
Cycladic art contains pre- the cityscape is a little-visited
Mycenaean pieces from the oasis where you can escape for
Aegean islands. Many of these an hour or two from the street
idols suggest the abstract forms bustle.There is an easy path to
of modern Cubist art – most the hill’s low summit, where you
strikingly in the much-repro- can enjoy fine views over all
duced Man Playing a Lyre. parts of Athens.Take care here
Another unusual piece is a six- though with children, as there’s
teenth-century-BC cylindrical an unfenced drop on the east
vase depicting a ring of fisher- side.
men carrying fish by their tails.
Early sculpture highlights Pedhío tou Áreos
include the Aristion Stele of a One of the few green areas in
Young Warrior, with delicately the centre of Athens, the Pedhío
carved beard, hair and tunic- tou Áreos (Plain of Mars) is a
folds, and the Croesus kouros fairly large park of trees, gardens
(statue of an idealized youth), and meandering paths. A long
both from the late sixth century boulevard bisects the park, with
BC. a line of statues of heroes of the
The Classical sculpture col- Greek War of Independence
lection includes a mid-fifth-cen- keeping silent vigil over the
tury-BC bronze Statue of strolling visitors.
Poseidon, athletic body perfectly
balanced as he stands poised to
throw his trident. Other major
Classical works include the
Shops
Little Jockey of Artemission, the Action Records
delicate bronze figure seeming Mavromiháli 51 t210 36 19 924.
too small for his galloping While you can find all the latest
horse; the bronze Ephebe of Greek and non-Greek CDs at
Antikithira from the fourth cen- the major retail stores on
tury BC; and from the third Stadhíou or Panepistimíou, this
century BC the bronze head of is the place to buy a genuine
a philosopher, with furrowed bouzoúki, baglamás or laoúto if
brow and unkempt hair. you fancy your hand at playing
The most reproduced of all Greek music.
the later sculptures is a statue
from the first century AD of a
naked Aphrodite about to rap
Pan’s knuckles for getting too
Restaurants
fresh. There is also an extraordi- Alexandra
nary bronze equestrian portrait Zonará 21 t210 64 20 874. Closed
statue of the Roman Emperor Sun. A converted old house with
Augustus. Among other Roman smart decor, verandah seating in
Contents Places
99
summer and occasional Exostrefis
accordion music.The Lófos Stréfi. Entered from beside
imaginative, inexpensive dishes the basketball court on Stréfi
include aubergine croquettes, Hill, this breezy ouzerí amidst
beetroot salad with walnuts, and the pines offers substantial

meat in various sauces. portions of tasty food and a
range of ouzo, as well as wine.
Alexandria
Metsóvou 13 t210 82 10 004. Closed Iy Gonia
Sun. Enjoy mid-range Egyptian Arahóvis 59. Mushroom saganáki,
and Mediterranean specialities in meatballs, spicy sausages and
a restaurant setting reminiscent octopus are among the delights
of Old Alexandria with palm at this ouzerí.
plants, ceiling fans and a
pleasant, shaded garden to dine. Iy Lefka
Mavromiháli 121 t210 36 14 038.
Barba Yannis Closed Sun. Moderate to mid-
Emmanouíl Benáki 94 t210 33 00 range old taverna with great
185. Very popular, mid-range butter bean purée (fáva), black-
restaurant, serving a varied eyed beans, baked and grilled
menu of home-style oven food, meat with barrelled retsina.
with barrelled wine and a There’s also summer seating in a
relaxed atmosphere. In summer huge garden enclosed by barrels.
you can dine al fresco on the
pedestrianized street. O Pinaleon
Mavromiháli 152 t210 64 40 945.
Epistrofi Stin Ithaki Closed Nov–April. A classic ouzerí-
Cnr Kolétti and Benáki. Closed Sun. style establishment, serving rich
Featuring Santoríni wine, this mezédhes and meaty entrées,
ouzerí does a good line in fish washed down with home-made
and seafood mezédhes. wine. Advance booking is
recommended.
GROUNDS OF THE POLYTEKHNÍO
Contents Places
100
Rozalia musical tastes from the 1980s
Valtetsíou 58 t210 33 02 933. Ever- onwards, but especially
popular mid-range mezédhes- mainstream guitar-based rock.
plus-grill taverna, with excellent The scene can be fast and
chicken and highly palatable furious.
barrelled wine.You order from

the proffered tray as the waiters Recital
thread their way through the Eressoú 64 & Themistokléous t210 38
throng. In summer you can dine 05 556. Opens 7pm. One of the
in the garden opposite. oldest rock bars in the Exárhia
Square area. Pumped up rock
To Steki tis Xanthis blasts from the speakers to a
Irínis Athinéas 5 t210 88 20 780. crowd of mainly rock-savvy
Closed Sun. A delightful old students and head-bangers.
mansion with a roof garden that
offers fine views across to Stréfis
Hill.The mid-range house
specialities include rabbit stew
Clubs
and schnitzel. Decadence
Voulgaroktónou 69 & Poulherías t210
Yiandes 88 23 544. Opens 11pm. Popular
Valtetsíou 44 t210 33 01 369. A with students, classic
high-quality, moderate to underground rock reverberates
expensive new restaurant until late, while you can also
serving a range of dishes, from catch some independent rock
cold cuts to stuffed mushrooms, and electronic pop, and some
as well as meat and fish recipes live performances.
from Asia Minor.
Fournos
Mavromiháli 168 t210 64 60 748.
Bars Opens 7.30pm. Fournos means
“oven” in Greek – it can get
After Dark
O PINALEON
Dhiodótou 31 & Ippokrátous t210 36
06 460. Opens 9.30pm. A
downtown youth hangout in
happening Exárhia; the music
runs from classic rock to
present-day hits.
Fairy Tale
Kolétti 25 t210 33 01 763. Daily
10pm–3am. A classic city-style bar
drawing an arty, largely lesbian
crowd; guest DJs play a mixed
Greek and non-Greek music
selection. Also open Sunday
afternoons for coffee and cake.
L.A. Rock
Themistokléous & Methónis 58 t210
38 44 024. Opens 9.30pm. A rock
bar for all ages, encompassing
Contents Places
101
hot in this arty joint, where music from all over Greece.
electronic pop and rock feature Extremely popular with univer-
prominently. DJs and VJs sity students, who jam the dance
complete the scene. floor and aisles. Drinks E6 (two
drinks minimum).

Intriga
Themistokléous & Derveníon 60 t210 Enallax
33 00 936. Opens 11pm. Modern and Mavromiháli 139 t210 64 37 416.
classic rock echo through this Thurs–Sat. No cover charge, but
Neoclassical building, as well as reservation needed. Lively, friendly
black and progressive rock, venue hosting various folk-style
attracting students as well as acts; drinks are e6. Live gigs
serious barflies. mostly Thurs–Sat.
Wunderbar Mo Better
Themistokléous 80, Platía Exarhíon. Kolétti 32. E6 entry includes drink.
Opens 9am. Fans of electro and Cramped but fun bar on the
techno-pop gather at this first floor of a Neoclassical
alternative venue for non- building, with hip-hop, punk
mainstream sounds.The patrons and indie rock.
tend to be neo-mods with
eclectic dress and music sense. Parafono
Asklipíou 130A t210 64 46 512.
Small, congenial place featuring
Live music Greek jazz bands.
An Club Rebetikí Istoría

Solomoú 13–15 t210 33 05 056. Ippokrátous 181, Neápoli t210 64 24
Entry from E6. Basement club 967. Closed Wed & July–Aug.
featuring local and lesser-known Genuine rebétika sounds from a
foreign rock bands. good company in a large old
house; drinks cost E5.75, and
To Baraki Tou Vassili tasty food is also served.
Dhidhótou 3 t210 36 23 625. E13
entry includes first drink. Popular Taximi
showcase for up-and-coming Isávron 29 t210 36 39 919. Closed
rebétika acts and other singer- Sun & July–Aug. Crowded, long-
songwriters. established salon on the third
floor of a Neoclassical building,
Boemissa attracting a crowd of all ages.
Solomoú 19 t210 38 43 836. Food is served, including fruit
Midnight–late; closed Mon. plates and mixed appetizers.
Reservations recommended. There’s no cover charge, but
Rebétika and regional folk drinks cost E7.
Contents Places
102
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill

If you have money to spend, Kolonáki, a favourite haunt
of expatriates, is the place to do it, catering as it does to
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill PLACES
every Western taste from fast food to high fashion. It’s

also from here that a funicular hauls you up to Lykavitós
Hill, where some of the best views of the city are to be
had. Close by are a couple of fine museums: one devot-
ed to Cycladic Art; the other, the Benáki, an assembly
of just about all things Greek, from Mycenaean artefacts
to twentieth-century memorabilia. It was in this area that
the fourth-century-BC foundations of Aristotle’s Lyceum
– where he taught for thirteen years and to which
Socrates was a frequent visitor – were recently
unearthed during excavation work for a new Museum of
1 (150m)
N 2 Y I A N N I S TAT H A Christ 3
HERSONOS
Church
ANAGNOSTOPOULOU
MANTZAROU
DHIMAKI H OU
SKOUFA
PI
ITIS
A
ND
OMIROU RA
4 SA
DHIMAKI PETROU
LY K A V I T T O U LY K A V I T T O U Áyios
EVELP IDHO S RONG AKOU
ALEXANDHR OU SOUTSOU
STRATI OTIKOU SYNDH ESMOU
Yeóryios
ANAGNOSTOPOULOU
Museum of 5
Cravaterie Greek Costume 6
Nazionali DHIMOKRITOU
AKADHIMIAS
VALAORITOU
Petai 7
VOUKOURESTIOU Petai Funicular
ROMA
TSAKALOF
SOLON OS
FOKYLIDHOU
8
Railway
KRIEZOTOU
PINDHAROU Bettina KOLONÁKI
Kanari 5 Giorgos ARI
STI DOR
K Berto PPO AS
I R A K L I T O U Eleftheriadis P L AT I A U
S
A Lucci KLE
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NOU
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Friday
NOU
FSIP
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Market
KE
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VA P L AT I A RI
HOT
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KIA
K O L O N A K I O U 12 X E N O K R AT O U S
SI Benáki ( P L AT I A F I L I KÍ S Oikos S
LI Zamboulaki
IROD
Museum E T E R ÍA S ) 14 15
LOU
SS Petridis Carouzos
IS KA PAT R Christos
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British PS IARH
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A L To Paleopoleion O U I Kostarelos
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Evzones SO Council OAK

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Barracks Beauty I Enny di ALO IM

FI PEK 16
A Works Monaco IS
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Goulandhrís
U TA
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MA
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KI P L AT I A ILIS
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LAN
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OF IAS M
Evangelismos
OR
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IH
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ST
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GI
War
RI
SS Museum
RI
Museum
RIZA
Presidential IL
EO
Palace S
YE
OR Athens
YI National Gallery of Art &
OU Conservatory Aléxandros Soútzos Museum
B
Contents Places
103
Modern Art, though these remain unvisitable. If you’ve
the stamina, the other museums in the area – the War
Museum, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, the
National Art Gallery and the Aléxandros Soútzos
Museum – may appeal but are mainly for enthusiasts. At
PLACES Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill

night the area is at its livliest, with plenty of upmarket
bars, cafés and restaurants. Further east, the more mod-
ern areas of Ilísia and Ambelókipi, have more good
bars and music clubs, as well as the Mégaro Mousikís,
Athens’ princupal concert hall.
Kolonáki city’s chicest shopping district.
Bordered by grand Neoclassical Although not as architecturally
palaces at the bottom of inspiring as some of the more
Lykavitós and the residential traditional neighbourhoods of
areas higher up the hill, the Athens, it enjoys a superb site
centre of Kolonáki forms the on the southwest-facing slopes
ARYIROUPOLEOS
AR
S A R A N DA P I H O U
M
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Lykavitós
IA
N
S
Theatre
NIKOTS
La Joya(150m)
RI
DHASKA
IA
N
KO
Lykavitós
Hill
OR
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OG
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A
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D’IS H
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PLATIA NOU FILIM
DH
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DANTE DHI KY
LAHI TOS
NOK
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OR
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MOU
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YELO
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D H I N O K R AT O U S
Yennádhion
LE
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SOU
IDH
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Library
RAKI
LAC
IAS
U
Elefteriou
British Navy Venizelou
PIRO
S PET
HIT
Archeological Museum ON
Kriti (700m)
17 ON
EVZ
ANA
School SOU
IDHIAS
MONI
OS
OU
EVZ
Alsos
ADI
ONO
N Mégaro
Eleftherias Mousikís
ENN
Hospital
IAS
IOU EATING & DRINKING
VLAD
U Y
Agrio Rodho 3 47 Maritsa’s 7

I
RAK
H IM IR
R AV
LAM
INE Megaro
Alekos Island 5 Fourtouna 17
NNO
SEM
PET
Moussikis
Baila 14 Ikio 16
PSA
OU B
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Café Alu Alexándras
IPSI
4 To Kioupi 11
ITE
NIS
LAN
IOA
DOU Hospital
KOU
ENS
Central 12 Mommy 1
Palenque (600m)
LOU
MO
AIG
Cilentio 2 Rodhia 10
I
City 15 Rooms 8
INIT
Aretaíeion
0 200 m Dhimokritos Hospital6 Sale & Pepe 9
OU
Filippou 13 Ta Skalakia
PONDOU 18
Memphis (100m) Hi-Hat Café (400m) Tsai stin Sahara (50m) 18 (200m)
Contents Places
104
Lykavitós Hill
Lykavitós Hill offers tremendous
views at any time, but
particularly from late afternoon
onwards – on a clear day you
can see the mountains of the

Peloponnese. After dark, the
shimmering lights of Athens
stretch right across the Attica
basin.
To get to the summit you can
take a funicular from the top
FUNICULAR of Ploútarhou, not far from
Kolonáki square (Mon–Wed &
of Lykavitós, looking out over Fri–Sun 8.45am–12.40am,
the Acropolis and National Thurs 10.30am–12.40am, every
Gardens. 10min in summer, otherwise
The heart of it all is officially every 30min; e4). For the more
called Platía Filikís Eterías but is energetic, the principal path up
always referred to as Platía the hill begins by the bus stop
Kolonakíou, after the ancient across from the St George
“little column” that hides in the Lycabettus Hotel above Platía
trees on the southwest side. Dhexamenís and winds through
Dotted around the area are woods to the top.The lower
kiosks with stocks of foreign part of the path is easy enough,
papers and magazines, and there running through shady pine
are numerous cafés on trees; higher up, the going gets
Patriárhou Ioakím – stamping more exposed and strenuous,
ground of Kolonáki’s well- although you can take a break at
heeled residents – although the a small café halfway, right
assorted cafés and pubs nearby opposite the Acropolis.
on pedestrianized Tsakálof, On the summit stands the
Milióni and Valaorítou are better small, whitewashed chapel of
and slightly cheaper. Áyios Yeóryios (St George),
In the dozens of small, built in the nineteenth century.
upmarket shops the accent is An expensive restaurant
firmly on fashion and designer commands the adjacent terrace
gear, and a half-hour stroll around facing the Acropolis and the sea;
the neighbourhood will garner it also operates a café on the
the whole gamut of consumer terrace facing inland.
style. Patriárhou Ioakím and
KOLONÁKI STREET
Skoufá, with its cross-streets to
the northwest, comprise the most
promising area along with the
pedestrianized
Voukourestíou–Valaorítou–Kriez
ótou block, just below
Akadhimías.
For more random strolling, the
highest tiers of Kolonáki can be
very enjoyable, with steep streets
ending in long flights of steps,
planted with oleander and
jasmine.
Contents Places
105
items are
exhibited
chronologically
and clearly
labelled; ancient

finds are on the
lower floors and
the modern
Greek artefacts
on the upper
floors. Among
the more
ÁYIOS YEÓRYIOS CHAPEL unusual items
are collections of early Greek
The road up the hill goes to Gospels, liturgical vestments and
the open-air Lykavitós Theatre church ornaments rescued by
(see p.35). If you come down by Greek refugees from Asia Minor
the southeast slopes, you emerge in 1922.There are also dazzling
near the lovely little enclave that embroideries and body
the British and American ornaments, and some unique
archeological schools have historical letters and
created for themselves on photographs on the Cretan
Souidhías. Here, too, is the statesman Elefthérios Venizélos,
Yennádhion Library (t210 Asia Minor and the Cretan
72 10 536, Mon–Wed & Fri Revolution.
9am–8pm, Sat 9am–2pm) with The museum shop by the
its large collection of books on entrance stocks a fine selection
Greece and an unpublicized of books on Greek folk art, CDs
drawer full of Edward Lear’s of regional music and some of
watercolour sketches; good- the best posters and postcards in
quality and reasonably priced the city.
reproductions are on sale.
THE BENÁKI MUSEUM
The Benáki Museum

Koumbári 1, cnr Vasilíssis Sofías
wwww.benaki.gr. Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat
9am–5pm, Thurs 9am–midnight, Sun
9am–3pm. e6, temporary exhibitions
e3. The often overlooked but
fascinating Benáki Museum
should not be missed. Housing a
private collection donated to
the state in the 1950s by
Emmanouíl Benákis, a wealthy
cotton merchant, exhibits range
from Mycenaean jewellery,
Greek costumes and folk
artefacts to memorabilia from
Byron and the Greek War of
Independence, as well as
jewellery from the Hélène
Stathatos collection.
More than twenty thousand
Contents Places
106
Goulandhrís Museum of
Cycladic and Ancient
Greek Art
Neofktou Dhouká 4 wwww.cycladic
-m.gr. Mon, Wed, Thurs & Fri
10am–4pm, Sat 10am–3pm. e3.50.

The small, private Goulandhrís
Museum of Cycladic and
Ancient Greek Art is an
extremely well presented
collection that includes objects
from the Cycladic civilization
(third millennium BC), pre-
Minoan Bronze Age (second
millennium BC) and the period
from the fall of Mycenae to
around 700 BC, plus a selection
of Archaic, Classical and
Hellenistic pottery; in fact, you
may learn far more about these CYCLADIC MUSEUM
periods than from the
corresponding sections of the and shaded courtyard, from
National Archeological Museum. which a covered passageway
From the Cycladic period leads to the nineteenth-century
are distinctive marble bowls and Stathatos House, magnificently
folded-arm figurines (mostly restored as an extension for
female) with sloping wedge temporary exhibitions.
heads whose style was
influential on twentieth-century Byzantine and Christian
artists such as Moore and Museum
Picasso.Their exact purpose is Vasilíssis Sofías 22. Tues–Sun
unknown but, given their 8.30am–3pm. e4. Perhaps the best
frequent discovery in grave- feature of the Byzantine and
barrows, it’s possible that they Christian Museum is its setting:
were spirit-world guides for the a peaceful villa with courtyard
deceased, substitutes for the that once belonged to the
sacrifice of servants and Duchesse de Plaisance, an
attendants, or representations of extravagantly eccentric French
the Earth Goddess. philhellene and widow of a
Much of the top floor is Napoleonic general who helped
devoted to a collection of fund the War of Independence.
painted Classical bowls, often To enjoy the exhibits – almost
showing two unrelated scenes exclusively icons, housed in two
on opposite sides – for example, restored side galleries – requires
the star exhibit depicts revellers some prior interest. Labelling is
on one face and three men in sometimes Greek-only, and you
cloaks conversing on the other. are told little of the
Many of the more exquisite development of styles, which
items date from the fifth towards the sixteenth century
century BC, the “golden age” of show an increasing post-
Classical Athens. Renaissance Italian influence,
To round off the experience, owing to the presence of the
there’s a good shop, snack bar Venetians in Greece.
Contents Places
107
War Museum most of them major loans from
Cnr Vasilíssis Sofias & Rizári 2. the world’s best museums, and
Tues–Sat 9am–2pm, Sun these are definitely worth
9.30am–2pm. Free. The only catching.
“cultural” endowment of the

1967–74 junta, the War
Museum becomes predictably
militaristic and right-wing as it
Shops
approaches modern events such Beauty Works
as the Asia Minor campaign, the Kapsáli & Neofktou Doúka, Kolonáki
civil war and Greek forces in t210 72 25 511. Favoured by
Korea. Earlier times, however, Madonna and other celebrities,
are covered with a more the Beauty Works cosmetics
scholarly concern, showing the chain stocks all the classic
changes in warfare from brands.
Mycenae through to the
Byzantines and Turks. Among an Berto Lucci
array of models is a fascinating Sólonos 8 t210 36 03 775. Well-
series on the acropolises and priced men’s and women’s
fortresses of Greece, both clothes and accessories at one of
Classical and medieval. a chain of stores around Athens.
Shoes and classy leatherwear
National Art Gallery and feature also, including men’s
Aléxandros Soútzos Museum attaché cases.
Vasiléos Konstandínou 50. Mon & Wed
9am–3pm & 6–9pm, Thurs–Sat Bettina
9am–3pm, Sun 10am–2pm. e6. The Pindárou 41 t210 32 38 759.
state’s core collection of Greek Reliable, chic and classy clothes
art, from the sixteenth century store – Greek designers such as
to the present day, is combined Angelos Frentzos and Sofia
in the National Art Gallery with Kokosalaki feature heavily.
the private collection of the
Athenian lawyer Aléxandros SHOPPING IN KOLONÁKI
Soútzos.Today, the whole

shebang holds around 9500
paintings, sculptures and
engravings as well as miniatures
and furniture.
Although a slightly
disappointing experience, it’s
worth checking out the work of
Nikos Hatzikyriákos-Ghíkas
(Ghika), a modern painter well
represented on the ground floor,
as well as the small group of
canvases on the mezzanine by
the primitive artist Theofilos,
more of whose work can be
seen at the Museum of Greek
Folk Art in Pláka (see p.61).
A recent refurbishment has
created a much more prominent
area for temporary exhibitions,
Contents Places
108
Carouzos Giorgos Eleftheriadis
Patriárhou Ioakím 14 t210 72 45 Pindárou 38 t210 36 15 278. A
873. Part of a chain of great little boutique from a fine
upmarket boutiques selling Greek designer. Styles are avant-
high-quality clothing, with a garde – European in cut but
great range of classic and essentially Greek in style.

formal clothes for both men
and women, good-quality Gucci
shoes and accessories. Melathron Centre, Tsakálof 5 t210 36
02 280. A Gucci boutique in the
Christos Kostarelos heart of Kolonáki, with clothes,
Cháritos 44 t210 72 28 261. One bags and accessories.
of the most talented designers
in Athens, Christos Kostarelos Kanari 5
gives a new edge to native Kánari 5 t210 33 92 597. A mixed
Greek design – the superb bag here, with clothes, shoes,
fluffy shawls are a good buy. accessories, cosmetics and CDs
sharing the same spacious display
The Cigar area.Very chic and aesthetically
Kánari 21 t210 36 03 725. Fine progressive, with a hairdressing
cigars from Havana, Honduras salon on the second floor.
and Nicaragua, packed into a
small, humidified room. Oikos
Irodótou 26 t210 72 31 350.
Cravaterie Nazionali Interesting gifts or just items to
Valaorítou 5 t210 36 20 996. Small scatter around your lounge, – the
but stylish tie boutique, with a large collection of gadgets and
fine collection. objets makes for a refreshing
change from tourist trinkets.
Enny di Monaco
Irodótou 18 t210 72 17 215. To Paleopoleion
Occasionally eccentric, avant- Irodhótou 18 t210 72 43 922. Fine
garde clothing shop; the old French and Greek furniture
high-fashion labels include and antiques, including
Cesare Fabbri, Adam Jones, porcelain and perfume bottles.
Luella and Diana von
Furstenberg. Petai Petai
Skoufá 30 t210 36 24 315. A
Fresh Line jewellery store with a large
Skoufá 10 t210 36 44 015. collection garnered from Greek
Cosmetics store, selling hand- designers, featuring exquisite
made soaps made from Greek handcrafted silver, gold and
herbs such as nettle, thyme and precious stones.
saffron.
Petridis
Galerie Zamboulaki Plateía Kolonakíou 7 t210 72 38 434.
Háritos 26 t210 72 52 488. Old Long-established and producing
furniture and modern art make some of the best Greek-made
this place perfect for browsing; shoes in the country. In addition
you’ll find everything from used you’ll find men’s and women’s
monastery tables to embroidery. ranges from Charles Jourdan,
Camper, Parallele and other
top-line shoemakers.
Contents Places
109
This ‘n’ That Cilentio
Levéndi 7 t210 72 93 790. A touch Mantzárou 3 & Sólonos t210 36 33
of the Orient, with ethnic 144. Serving modern
fashions, kaftans, sandals and Mediterranean and Greek fusion
shawls. dishes, this upmarket and fairly

costly eatery in an old restored
building combines charm with
Restaurants rusticity. Many of the house
ingredients are organic.
Agrio Rodho
Sarandapíhou 15–17 t210 36 36 337. Dhimokritos
Closed Sun. A good place for a Dhimokrítou 23 t210 36 13 588.
post-Lykavitós theatre meal. Closed Sun. Occasionally snooty –
Food is homely as opposed to but good-value – restaurant in a
haute cuisine, plus game is also beautiful Neoclassical building
on the menu. with high ceilings and classy
interior decor.The vast menu
Central includes well-prepared dishes
Plateía, Kolonakíou t210 72 45 938. such as rabbit in lemon sauce,
This fairly upmarket and fun- fish soup, and cabbage dolmádhes
oriented lounge-bar-cum- with lamb.
restaurant does a funky twist on
modern Greek fare, serving a Filippou
good selection of salads and Xenokrátous 19 t 210 72 16 390. Closed
decent sushi. Sat eve & Sun. This conservative
PLATÍA KOLONAKÍOU
Contents Places
110
taverna, favourite of office workers sauce, while the prices go fairly
and residents, is liveliest at lunch. easy on your pocket.
The food is fresh and moderately
priced, and includes good grills, Rooms
stews and casseroles. Kriezótou 11 t210 36 15 628. A
mid-priced newcomer to the

47 Maritsa’s Kolonáki culinary scene, Rooms
Voukourestíou 47 t 210 36 30 132. is a bit of everything:
Fairly expensive restaurant with a delicatessen, sushi bar, café and
posh interior and pavement even cigar bar.Very popular
seating. Specializes in seafood like with the local trendies.
monkfish, crayfish fritters, lobster
spaghetti and grilled mussels. Sale & Pepe
Aristíppou 34 t210 72 34 102. Closed
Fourtouna Sun. Good-quality but fairly pricey
An. Polémou 22 t 210 72 21 282. Italian fare come to town in the
The best place for quality form of Sale & Pepe, high up on
seafood in Kolonáki, serving the flanks of Lykavitós Hill.The
moderately expensive, well- menu is simple yet hearty and the
prepared fish.The grilled or wine list is most impressive.
steamed crayfish is a speciality;
dishes are displayed in a wooden Ta Skalakia
boat in the front area.There’s Eyinítou 32, Ilísia, off some stairs
also a buffet range, and a decent behind the Holiday Inn t 210 72 29
wine list which includes lesser- 290. Ta Skalakia is not as cheap
known vintages from or unpretentious as it once was,
Macedonia and the islands. but still has many classic taverna
dishes and attracts a lively crowd.
Ikio
Ploútarhou 15 t 210 72 59 216. As
the restaurant name (meaning
“homely”) suggests, Ikio is an
Bars
unfussy taverna with a wide Alekos Island
range of oven-baked dishes and Tsakálof 42. Daily 11pm–3am. Long-
salads that don’t dent a huge established, easy-going basement
hole in your wallet. gay bar playing rock and pop
music; Alekos is one of Athens’
To Kioupi more colourful bartenders.
Platía Kolonakíou 4 t 210 36 14 033.
Closed Sun. A budget Baila
subterranean taverna with good, Háritos 43 t210 72 33 019. Opens
standard Greek fare such as 12.30am. More of a socializing
moussakás and dolmádhes. hangout than a full-on bar, with
drinks and coffees; the music is
Rodhia low-key, and patrons often
Aristíppou 44 t 210 72 29 883. Closed gather on the pavement.
Sun. Popular taverna set in a
cosy old house – the menu City
hasn’t changed in twenty years, Háritos 43 t210 72 28 910. Opens
but that doesn’t bother its many 9pm. Artists and wannabes hang
loyal regulars. Favourites include out here, where sipping drinks
beef in lemon sauce, lamb takes precedence over the light,
fricassee and octopus in mustard discreet music.
Contents Places
111
Clubs Kriti
Ayíou Thomá 8, Ambelókipi t210 77
Café Alu 58 258. Closed Mon. Live music
Skoufá & Omírou 58 t210 36 11 116. venue specializing in Cretan
Opens 10pm. Upbeat venue, music.

hosting guest DJs playing mainly
modern music. La Joya
Tsóha 43, Ambelókipi t210 64 40
Memphis 030. Open until 2.30am. Successful
Vendíri 5, Ilísia, behind Hilton Hotel. venue with a great atmosphere,
Roomy, comfy club/bar with beautiful decor and adventurous
a garden and a good sound food; it’s popular with celebrity
system pumping out rock parties.The music is rock, jazz
and dance. and Latin.
Mommy Lykavitós Theatre

Delfón 4 t210 36 19 682. Opens Lykavitós Hill. Spectacular outdoor
10pm. One of Kolonáki’s better venue used mainly for music
meeting places, this is a trendy concerts from May to October.
watering hole for thirty-
somethings where soulful Palenque
house is pumped out by Farandáton 41, Platía Ay. Thomá,
resident DJs. Ambelókipi t210 64 87 748. Live
Latin music by South American
groups, as well as salsa parties,
Live music flamenco music and dance
lessons.
Hi-Hat Café
Dhragoúmi 28 and Krousóvou 1, Ilísia Tsai stin Sahara
nr Hilton Hotel t210 72 18 171. Laodhikías 18, Ilísia. Admission and
Crowded, energetic bar that first drink e12. Local venue that
plays mainly blues music, but often hosts enjoyable Greek folk
also features Latin and jazz. nights.
Contents Places
112
Smndagma and around

All roads lead to Shndagma – you’ll almost inevitably
find yourself here sooner or later for the metro and bus
Sdndagma and around PLACES
connections. Platía Syndágmatos (Constitution Square),

to give it its full name, lies roughly midway between the
Acropolis and Lykavitós Hill. With the Greek Parliament
building (the Voulí) on its uphill side, and banks, offices
and embassies clustered around, it’s the heart of
Athens politically as well as geographically. The
square’s name derives from the fact that Greece’s first
constitution was proclaimed (reluctantly under popular
pressure) by King Otho from the palace balcony in 1843.
It’s still the principal venue for mass demonstrations,
and in the run-up to elections the major political parties
stage their final campaign rallies here. Vital hub as it is,
however, the traffic and the crush mean it’s not an
attractive place to hang around. Escape comes in the
form of the National Gardens, a welcome area of green-
ery stretching out south from the parliament building
and offering a traffic-free route down past the Záppio to
Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. In
other directions the prime shopping territory of Odhós
Ermoú heads west towards Monastiráki, with Pláka and
the Acropolis to the southwest; Stadhíou and
Panepistimíou head northwest towards Omónia; while
to the north and east lies Kolonáki and the embassy
quarter.
Hotel Grande Bretagne exception of the Voulí, the vast
Vasiléos Yeoryíou 1 t210 33 30 000, Hotel Grande Bretagne –
wgrandebretagne.gr. With the Athens’ grandest – is just about
PARLIAMENT BUILDING
Contents Places
113
the only building on Sandagma centre of Greek political
to have survived postwar intrigue: in one notorious
development. Past the impressive episode,Winston Churchill
facade and uniformed doormen, narrowly avoided being blown
the interior is magnificently up here on Christmas Day
PLACES Sdndagma and around

opulent, as befits a grand hotel 1944, when saboteurs from the
established in the late Communist-led ELAS resistance
nineteenth century – it’s worth movement placed a huge
taking a look inside, or having a explosive charge in the drains.
drink at one of the bars.There’s According to whom you
a rooftop pool, bar and believe, the bomb was either
restaurant, all with great views discovered in time by a kitchen
across the city. employee, or removed by ELAS
The hotel has long been at the themselves when they realized
National
SK
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Historical
OU
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UK Hotel Grande
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Bretagne
AKADH
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S< N DAG M A
PERIKLE M Benáki
O U S VA SS IL
EO S YE OR YI OUSyndagma Museum
VASILI
1 Tomb of the SSIS S
ERMO Syndagma OFIAS
U M Unknown
PLATIA Soldier Evzones
SYNDAGMATOS Voulí Barracks
MITROP Syndagma M (Parliament
OLEOS Building)
OTHON
OS
A POLLO NO S Syndagma
M
NON
NIKIS
S
SKOUF
VOULI
FILELLI
XE NO FO ND
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S
Botanical
A L IA
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Russian Church National
of St Nicodemus Y. S
Gardens
AM
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Jewish Presidential
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U
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THIN
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SI
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VA
Frissiras P E TA Anglican
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Church 2
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OR
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Entrance FO Záppio
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Hadrian's Arch S V Gardens
A SIL
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GA
S
Panatheniac
Temple of Stadium
Olympian Zeus
EATING & DRINKING
Aigli Restaurant Bar 3
0 150 m Everest 1
Oasis 2
Contents Places
114
that Churchill was one of their the National Gardens – not so
potential victims. much a flower garden as a
luxuriant tangle of trees, whose
The Voulí shade, benches and duck ponds
Platía Syndágmatos. Not open to the provide palpable relief from the
public. The Greek National heat in summer. It’s a great spot

Parliament, the Voulí, presides for a picnic.The gardens were
over Platía Syndágmatos from its originally the private palace
uphill (east) side. A vast, ochre- gardens, a pet project of Queen
and-white Neoclassical Amalia in the 1840s; supposedly
structure, it was built as the royal the main duty of the tiny Greek
palace for Greece’s first navy in its early days was
monarch, the Bavarian King fetching rare plants, often the
Otho, who established his gifts of other royal houses, from
capital in Athens and moved in remote corners of the globe.
in 1842. In front of it, goose- Despite a major pre-Olympics
stepping evzónes in tasselled clear-out, there’s still something
caps, kilt and woolly leggings – of an air of benign neglect here,
a prettified version of traditional with rampant undergrowth and
mountain costume – change signs that seem to take you
their guard at intervals in front round in circles back to where
of the Tomb of the Unknown you started.
Soldier. On Sundays, just before A small zoo (signed Irattikou)
11am, a full band and the entire contains ostriches, exotic fowl,
corps parade from the tomb to chickens, rabbits and domestic cats,
their barracks at the back of the and there’s a children’s playground
National Gardens to the rhythm on the Záppio side. Occupying an
of camera shutters. elegant little pavilion nearby is a
botanical museum.
The National Gardens On the far side of the gardens is
Entrances on Amalías, Vasilíssis Sofías, the Presidential Palace, the
and Iródhou Attikoú. Daily royal residence until Constantine’s
sunrise–sunset. Free. The most exile in 1967, where more
refreshing acres in the city are evzónes stand on sentry duty.
THE NATIONAL GARDENS
Contents Places
115
PLACES Sdndagma and around

THE ZÁPPIO
The Záppio mark the edge of the Classical

Open 24hr. On the southern side city and the beginning of his
of the National Gardens are the own. On the west side its frieze
graceful, crescent-shaped is inscribed “This is Athens, the
grounds of the Záppio. Popular ancient city of Theseus”, and on
with evening and weekend the other “This is the City of
strollers, they’re more open, and Hadrian and not of Theseus”.
more formally laid out.The With so little that’s ancient
Záppio itself, an imposing remaining around it, this doesn’t
Neoclassical edifice originally make immediate sense, but you
built as an exhibition hall, is not can look up, westwards, to the
open to the public. Although it Acropolis and in the other
has no permanent function, the direction see the columns of the
building has taken on great temple completed by
prestigious roles such as the Hadrian. Many more Roman
headquarters for both the Greek remains are thought to lie under
presidency of the European the Záppio area, and over
Union and for the people who towards the old Olympic
ran the 2004 Olympic bid. Stadium.
Hadrian’s Arch HADRIAN’S ARCH
Hadrian’s Arch stands in

splendid isolation on what feels
like one of the busiest corners
in Athens, where Odhós
Syngroú arrives in the centre of
town.With the traffic roaring
by, this is not somewhere you
are tempted to linger – but it’s
definitely worth a look on your
way to the Temple of Olympian
Zeus.
The arch, eighteen metres tall,
was erected by the emperor to
Contents Places
116
The Temple of Olympian Zeus complex and a gateway from
Entrance on Vasilíssis Ólgas. Daily: the wall of the Classical city.The
April–Sept 8am–7pm; Oct–March south side of the enclosure
8.30am–3pm. E2, or joint Acropolis overlooks a futher area of
ticket. The colossal pillars of the excavation (not open to the
Temple of Olympian Zeus – public) where both Roman and

also known as the Olympieion much earlier buildings have
– stand in the middle of a huge, been revealed.
dusty clearing with excellent
views of the Acropolis. One of
the largest temples in the
ancient world – according to
Cafés
Livy “the only temple on earth Everest
to do justice to the god” – its Ermoú 2, Platía Sindágmatos. Daily 24
construction was begun by the hr. With an Easy Internet Café
tyrant Peisistratos as early as the upstairs, this branch of the
sixth century BC, but only sandwich chain is always busy.
completed almost seven While you can eat in, you may
hundred years later under prefer to collect a picnic to take
Hadrian. It was finally dedicated to the National Gardens.
in 131 AD, an occasion that
Hadrian marked by contributing Oasis
an enormous statue of Zeus and West side of National Gardens,
an equally monumental one of opposite cnr of Amalías and Filellínon.
himself, although both have This café just off the main
since been lost. Just fifteen of avenue is an unexpected haven,
the temple’s original 104 marble offering ice cream, ouzo and
pillars remain erect, though the mezédhes in the shade.
massive column drums of
another, which fell in 1852,
litter the ground.To the north
of the temple enclosure, by the
Restaurants
site entrance, are various Aigli Restaurant Bar
excavated remains including an Záppio Gardens t210 33 69 363.
impressive Roman bath Pricey, smart restaurant with a
fabulous setting,
the haunt of
politicians and
diplomats.The
food is “modern
Mediterranean”,
which here
means Greek
with French
and Italian
influences.
TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS
Contents Places
117
Mets, Pangráti and

Koukáki
PLACES Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki

For a taste of old Athens, head along to Mets, a steep
hillside area with almost-intact streets of pre-World War
II houses. With their tiled roofs, shuttered windows and
courtyards with spiral metal staircases and potted
plants, they offer an intimate glimpse at the more tradi-
tional side of the city, and it’s here, around Márkou
Mousoúrou and Arhimídhous, that you’ll find the city’s
most authentic tavernas and bars. The residential dis-
trict of Pangráti, too, has a wealth of small, homely tav-
ernas and mezhedopoleía: Platía Plastíra, Platía Varnáva
and Platía Pangratíou are the focal points, the first with
a large, old-fashioned kafeníon where you can sit for
hours on a leafy terrace for the price of a coffee.
Several other fine tavernas lie tucked away on and
around Platía Varnáva and nearby Odhós Arhimídhous:
the latter also holds an impressive street market every
Friday. More places to eat lie down towards Leofóros
Vasiléos Konstandínou; while you’re there it’s worth tak-
ing a look at nearby Odhós Ágras, an attractive stepped
street where Nobel-laureate poet George Seferis once
lived.
Pangráti is also where you’ll can hop on to a #2, #4 or #12
find the original Olympic trolley to Platía Plastíra, or use
Stadium, which occupies an the very handy Akrópoli or
impressive spot next to Syngroú-Fix metro stations.
Ardhittós Hill, as well as Athens’
First Cemetery, where lie the
much-visited tombs of many of
the country’s luminaries.
Koukáki, huddled close
around the southern slopes of
Filopáppou Hill, is another
district that sees few tourists yet
lies in close proximity to the
slopes of the Acropolis and the
theatres of Dionysos and
Herodes Atticus.Tranquil and
shady, with tree-lined streets, it’s
another place that’s great for
eating and drinking.
You can reach all three areas
on foot from the centre, but if
you don’t fancy the stroll you
PANGRÁTI
Contents Places
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES 118
THE OLD OLYMPIC STADIUM
Centre of Jewish
EATING & DRINKING Folk Art & Museum
Tradition
Açai 5 Koukles 16
Aenaon 10 Mayemenos Avlos 2 Children’s
Apanemia 9 Pinelopi kai Mnistires 11 Museum Greek
Edodi 14 Psistaria Ambrosia 12 Frissiras Folk Art
The Guys 6 Spondi 15 Monument Museum Museum
Kalimarmaron 4 O Themistoklis 1 of Lysikratos
To Kalyvi 13 Vyrinis 8
PLÁKA
Karavitis 3 Xanthippi 7 P L AT I A
LY S I K R AT O U S Entrance
Theatre of
DHIONY Dionysos Hadrian's Arch
SIOU A
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MAKRIYIÁNNI
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G A R I VA L D I
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VE
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F R AT T I GA Museum Akropoli
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Contents Places
119
The Panathenaic Stadium Herodes Atticus later undertook
The old Olympic Stadium (aka to refurbish the 60,000 seats of
the Panathenaic Stadium or the the entire stadium; the white
Kalimármaro) is a nineteenth- marble from these was to
century reconstruction on provide the city with a

Roman foundations, slotted convenient quarry through the
tightly in between the pine- ensuing seventeen centuries.
covered spurs of Ardhittós Hill. The stadium’s reconstruction
This site was originally marked dates from the modern revival
out in the fourth century BC of the Olympic Games in 1896
for the Panathenaic athletic and bears witness to the efforts
contests, but in Roman times, as of another wealthy benefactor,
a grand gesture to mark the the Alexandrian Greek Yiorgos
reign of the emperor Hadrian, it Averoff. Its appearance – pristine
was adapted for an orgy of blood whiteness and meticulous
sports, with thousands of wild symmetry – must be very much
beasts baited and slaughtered in as it was when first restored and
the arena.The Roman senator reopened under Herodes
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Contents Places
120
Atticus. It’s still used by local sanctuaries existed along what
athletes and as the finishing was once a bucolic location.
point for the Athens Marathon Ardhittós Hill is still widely
– and indeed for the 2004 held to be haunted by ancient
Olympic Games marathon. spirits.
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES
The River Ilisós The First Cemetery

and Ardhittós Hill The First Cemetery (Próto
Few visitors to Athens would be Nekrotafío) shelters the tombs
aware of it, but the area bounded of just about everybody who
by the suburbs of Koukáki, was anybody in nineteenth-
Pangráti and Mets is in fact a and twentieth-century Greece,
river valley through which the from Heinrich Schliemann to
River Ilisós once flowed openly. former prime minister Andreas
In ancient times the river flowed Papandreou. The humbler
outside the protective walls of tombs of musicians, artists and
Athens, but nowadays it runs writers are interspersed with
mostly underground.The only ornate mausoleums of soldiers,
section visible to visitors is a statesmen and wealthy families,
small area at the south side of whose descendants come to
the supporting walls of the picnic, stroll and tend the
Temple of Olympian Zeus.The graves. The graveside statuary
double sources of this lost river occasionally attains the status
Ilisós are near the Kessarianí of high art, most notably in the
monastery and at Karéas near works of Ianoulis Halepas, a
the church of St John the belle époque sculptor from
Theologian. Tínos. Halepas battled with
Ilisós, in antiquity, was a demi- mental illness for most of his
god, the son of Poseidon and life and died in extreme
Demeter, and was worshipped poverty in 1943; his
in a sanctuary on Ardhittós Hill masterpiece is the idealized
next to the Olympic Stadium; Kimiméni (Sleeping Girl), on
several temples, bridges and the right about 300m in.
THE FIRST CEMETERY
Contents Places
121
wine, mezédhes and oven-baked
main courses. In summer there’s
outdoor seating in an enclosed
garden.

Kalimarmaron
Evforíonos 13 & Eratosthénous,
Pangráti t210 70 19 727. Closed Mon
& Sun. A neat little taverna with
a constantly changing menu of
carefully prepared and original
THE APANEMIA dishes.
To Kalyvi
Restaurants Empedhokléous 26, Pangráti t 210 75
20 641. Eves only, closed June–Sept.
Aenaon A good budget choice, serving
Plateía Varnáva 9, Pangráti t 210 70 excellent, traditional mezédhes-
15 169. Closed Sun. Mid-range type fare.The decor’s rustic and
place popular for its wine- they sometimes have live music.
mezédhes, especially the spicy
“fire and lava” version. Good Mayemenos Avlos
draught wine is served, and Amknda 4, Pangráti t 210 72 23 195.
rebétika sessions take place on The long-established
Friday and Saturday evenings. Mayemenos Avlos is one of a
trio of small tavernas on this
Apanemia diminutive square.The setting is
Erekthíou 2 & Veïkou, Koukáki t 210 intimate and the patronage
92 28 766. Closed Sun. A smart mainly Greek. Serves the usual
ouzerí with a particularly large grills and mezédhes at prices that
selection of decently priced don’t hit too hard, and there’s
mezédhes, seafood and fine meat occasional live music.
dishes such as pot-roast goat.
Pinelopi kai Mnistires
Edodi Imittoú 130, Pangráti t210 75 68
Veïkou 80, Koukáki t210 92 13 013. 555. Close to Plateía Profíti Ilía,
Eves only, closed Sun. One of Pinelopi kai Mnistires
Athens’ finest restaurants, Edodi (Penelope and her Suitors) is a
is a great place for a splurge.The bustling restaurant favoured by
imaginative dishes can be almost Greeks in search of fun and no-
dazzling – with prices to match nonsense food such as the
– and include swordfish in a mid-priced mousakás and
crust of potatoes with mustard souvláki.There’s live music most
sauce, and tart with feta, tomato, evenings.
aubergine and prosciutto.
Waiters will show you all of the Psistaria Ambrosia
various creations before you Dhrákou 3–5, Koukáki t210 92 20
make a choice. 281. Just up from Syngrou-Fix
metro, this popular grill place
Karavitis offers great value on a
Pafsaníou 4, Pangráti t210 72 15 155. pedestrian street full of fast-
Eves only. A traditional, good- food outlets and small
value taverna with draught restaurants.
Contents Places
122
Spondi The Guys
Pkrronos 5, Pangráti t 210 75 20 658. Lembési 8, Makriyánni t210 92 14
Eves only. A contender for Athens’ 244. Wed–Mon 10pm–3am. A cool,
best restaurant, the swish menu gay lounge-bar where the Greek
here is French-influenced and is and international music draws in
Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki PLACES
characterized by its combination a mature crowd.

of simplicity and originality.The
dishes include cream of Koukles
mushrooms with foie gras and Zan Moreás 3, cnr Syngroú, Koukáki
truffle, and fillet of sea bass in a t210 92 48 989. Wed–Sun only. This
fennel, olive-oil and vanilla sauce. gay establishment has the best
drag acts in Athens (Koukles
O Themistoklis means “dolls”).
Vasiléos Georgíou 31 & Spkrou
Merkoúri, Pangráti t 210 72 19 553.
An inexpensive little hole-in-
the-wall kind of eatery – known
Live music
as koutoúki in Greek – where Diavolos Musiki Spiti
the speciality is bekrí mezés (meat Dhrákou 9, Koukáki t210 92 39 588.
cubes in a spicy sauce). Closed Mon, Tues & May–Sept. Owned
by the popular singer Yiannis
Vyrinis Glezos, who sometimes puts in an
Arhimídhous 11, Pangráti t210 70 12 appearance himself, the music
153. Closed Sun. A good, low-key here ranges from rebétika to
and good-value taverna, with its popular in style.The cover charge
own house wine and a wide includes a drink, and on Thursday
variety of mezédhes.There’s nights there are tango lessons
garden seating in summer. followed by open dancing.
Xanthippi Café Asante

Arhimídhous 14 & Ágras, Pangráti Damáreos 78, Pangráti t210 75 60
t 210 75 60 514. Just behind the 102. E6. Expect to see anything
Olympic Stadium and set in a from mainstream bands to Afro-
converted old house, Xanthippi Cuban, Indian, Armenian or
serves appetizing mezédhes, African outfits, in this excellent,
crêpes and meat dishes. atmospheric venue.
Half-Note
Bars Trivonianoú 17, Mets t210 92 13 310.
Closed Tues and much of the summer.
Açai Good live jazz most nights,
Márkou Mousoúrou 1, Mets t 210 92 often featuring acts from abroad.
37 109. Opens 9pm. E12 entrance on
Fri & Sat. A popular venue with Stravos tou Notou
the over-thirties, the balcony Tharípou 37, Neos Kosmos. One of
here has some of the best views the liveliest rock clubs in town,
of Athens and Lykavittos by featuring mostly Greek acts but
night.The music varies from with the occasional foreign artist.
dance to mainstream.
Contents Places
123
Suburban Athens
Athens pushes its suburbs higher and wider each year
and all the places covered in this chapter, originally well
PLACES Suburban Athens

outside the city, are now approached through a more or
less continuous urban landscape. Nonetheless, they
variously offer fresh air, seaside settings, and a change
of pace from downtown Athens.
The monasteries of Dhafní Glyfádha and the beach suburbs

and Kessarianí, for example, surrounding it are the chief
just half an hour or so from the summertime escape for
centre, each retain a definite overheating Athenians: not just
countryside setting and make beaches, but cafés, restaurants,
for an enjoyable break from the clubs and more shops.
central bustle. Dhafní has world-
famous mosaics; while Dhafní
Kessarianí offers exceptional Ierá Odhós, Haïdhari t210 58 11 558.
peace and fine walking. Check latest opening details with the
The northern suburb of tourist office. As well as being a
Kifissiá, with its expensive fabulous example of Byzantine
villas, provides an insight into architecture at its best, Dhafní
wealthy Athenian life. Its relaxed Monastery is decorated with
combination of upmarket mosaics that are considered
shopping and café society, among the artistic masterpieces
especially busy on Saturdays, can of the Middle Ages.The
be combined with a visit to the eleventh-century church you
Goulandhrís Natural History see today replaced a fortified
Museum and Gaia Centre. fifth-century basilica, which in
On the coast, Pireás and the turn had been adapted from the
resort of Glyfádha are ruins of a sanctuary of Apollo –
technically not part of Athens the name is derived from the
(indeed, Pireás is a proud daphnai (laurels) sacred to the
municipality in its own right). god. Both the church and the
Nevertheless, they too are fortifications which enclose it
connected by excellent public incorporate blocks from the
transport and by an unbroken ancient sanctuary; however, the
ribbon of development. Pireás complex has been rebuilt and
has ferries to the islands, a restored so many times over the
couple of good museums and years that it’s hard to tell what is
some fine waterfront dining. original.
Dhafní transport
Take bus #A16 or #B16 from Platía Eleftherías, 300m down Pireós from Omónia
(Platía Eleftherías is popularly known as Platía Koumoundoúrou and the return
buses are so marked); the monastery is to the left of the road, about twenty min-
utes’ ride. Note that the Dhafní metro station is actually in the suburb of Dhafní,
on the other side of the city.
Dhafní is easily combined with a visit to Eleusis (see p.137), a further twenty-
minute ride on the #A16 bus route.
Contents Places
124
KIFISSIÁ
Kifissia
5 M
1 E7
AT I K
I OD
H OS Kat M
Maroussi
HAS S I AS
Athens Airport
M
Suburban Athens PLACES
AT
AS
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NÉA IRÁKLIO OD
IS SI
HO
ÁYII FILADÉLFIA M IraklioM S
KIF
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M Nea Ionia Irini
Olympic
NÉA IÓNIA Stadium
M IS
Perissos
EL
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M Ano GALÁTSI
Áyios Eleftherios M Patissia
PAT I S S I O N
HAÏDHÁRI IO N
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IE
M PSÍHIKO
RA EGALÉO Attiki M Ethniki Amyna
OD M Panormou
HO M Katehaki
S Larissa M M Victoria M
Metaxourghio
M Omonia M Ambelokipoi
N
IVO
Panepistimio M
M M Megaro Moussikis
O U L AMB R A
TH
ORI
Monastiraki
GRIG KI M Evangelismos
M M M
Line Syndagma
LI TÁVROS Thissio 1 ZOGRAFOÚ
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M Neos KESSARIANÍ Kessarianí

IV
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Rail
0 4 km
Tram
Contents Places
PANDOKRÁTOR, DHAFNÍ
125
have done since ancient times.
Athenians still come to collect
water from the local fountains,
though these days you’re
strongly advised not to drink

it.The monastery buildings
date from the eleventh century,
though the frescoes in the
chapel (a classic cross-in-square
design) are much later –
executed during the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries. It’s a
small place, and doesn’t take
long to see – don’t miss the
ram’s head spouting spring
water round the back of the
church.
The monastery gardens and
the pine-forested slopes around
Inside the church, the are popular picnic and hiking
celebrated mosaic cycle is spots for Athenians. Follow the
remarkable for its completeness: paths above the monastery, and
there are scenes from the life of you’ll find a number of chapels
Christ and the Virgin, saints, and ruined buildings, many of
archangels and prophets.The them signposted. From the top
most magnificent is the – follow signs to Lófos
Pandokrátor (Christ in Majesty)
KESSARIANÍ
on the dome: lit by the sixteen
windows of the drum, and set
against a background of gold,
this stern image directs a
tremendous and piercing gaze,
his finger poised on the Book of
Judgement.
Kessarianí
t210 72 36 619. Tues–Sun
8am–2.30pm; E2.50. The
monastery of Kessarianí is a
beautiful and wonderfully
peaceful place, just 5km from the
centre of the city and yet high
enough up the slopes of Mount
Imittós to escape the hubbub.
The sources of the River
Ilissos provide for extensive
gardens hereabouts, as they
Kessarianí transport
Take blue bus #223 or #224 from Akadhimías to the terminus by Kessarianí
municipal stadium. From here the monastery is a thirty- to forty-minute climb
straight ahead, on a path beside the road up the lower slopes of Mount Imittós.
Contents Places
126 1 (200m)
F I LY R O N
MYR N
KIFISSIA SIN
YSOU
IS
OU
DH
DHILIYIA
NNI THEOD.
DION
VI
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Centre Goulandhrís
TA T O I O U
MALIA
Natural History 2
DH RA GO UM
Y E O R G A N DA
3
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K O K K O TA
4
VA S . A
P L AT Í A
5 PAPA
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IAS
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TI A
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ARG
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0 250 m
Varsos 6 9 Kefalari Suites A
Taxiarchoú – there are peaceful, cool atmosphere, mean

wonderful views across Athens that it comes as a marked
to Pireás and the sea beyond, change of pace to the vibrancy
with the Acropolis rising in the of the city centre.
foreground. Shopping and dining aside, the
On the way down you can Goulandhrís Natural History
explore Kessarianí district. Its Museum (daily except Fri
attractively ramshackle streets 9am–2.30pm; E3) offers a more
don’t have anything specifically cultural excuse to visit. Set in a
to seek out, but there are plenty fine old mansion, the collection
of places to grab a bite or a has especially good coverage of
drink. Greek birds, butterflies and
endangered species such as the
Kifissiá monk seal and loggerhead sea
Set on the leafy lower slopes of turtle, plus a 250,000-specimen
Mount Pendéli, Kifissiá is one of herbarium. Perhaps more
Athens’ swishest suburbs, interesting, especially for kids,
offering some great designer the adjacent Gaia Centre
shopping and a good selection (same hours; E4.50) offers a
of upmarket eating and drinking mildly interactive trip through
options. Its lovely nineteenth- the natural cycle of the earth
century summer villas and – and ecological issues (note that
thanks to the location – the labelling is in Greek, so be sure
Kifissiá transport
Kifissiá is the northernmost stop on the metro, 35 minutes or so from Omónia,
passing the Olympic site at Iríni along the way. There are also numerous buses,
including the #550, which heads through the centre via Syngroú and Vassilísis
Sofías, and the #E7, #A7 and #B7, all of which start from Platía Káningos near
Omónia.
Contents Places
127
to get an audio guide). Lastly, Pireás
the Pinakothiki Kouvoutsaki Pireás has been the port of
(Tues–Fri 9am–2pm & 6–9pm; Athens since Classical times,
Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; free) is a when the so-called Long Walls,
private collection of modern scattered remnants of which can

Greek figurative art that’s worth still be seen, were built to
a quick look. connect it to the city.Today it is
Sidera Fire Club (50m)

Crete 1
Lésvos OU
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AR
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TID
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To Voliótiko 1911 3 Mistral D

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Contents Places
128
Pireás transport
The metro takes about twenty minutes from Omónia to Pireás. Bus #40 (every
10min 5am–midnight, hourly 1–5am) runs to and from Skndagma; #49 from
Omónia (every 15min 5am–midnight, hourly 1–5am). Bus #904 runs from near the
metro to Zéa Marina, trolley-bus #20 to Mikrolímano. Taxis cost E6–7 at day-tar-
iff from the centre of Athens – worth considering, especially if you’re heading for
Zéa Marina or Mikrolímano, which are a long walk from the metro.
a substantial metropolis in its export to Rome; and a huge

own right and the port has a grave monument that’s more
gritty fascination of its own, but like a miniature temple.The star
the real attractions are around of the show, however, must be
the smaller-boat harbours of the bronze kouros (idealized
Zéa Marina and Mikrolímano. male statue) of Apollo; dating
Here, the upscale residential from 530–520 BC, this is the
areas are alive with attractive earliest known life-size bronze.
waterfront cafés, bars and
restaurants.There’s also an Glyfádha and around
excellent Archeological Museum The southern suburbs of Athens
and a big Sunday-morning flea form an almost unbroken line
market – more an event to along the coast all the way from
experience than a place to shop. Pireás to Vouliagméni, some
Above all, Athenians come to 20km away.This is Athens’
Pireás to eat on the waterfront, summer playground, and the
and the excellent fish tavernas centre of it - for shopping,
are packed at weekends. clubbing, dining or posing on
the beach – is Glyfádha and its
Pireás Archeological neighbour Voúla. At weekends
Museum half of Athens seems to head
Hariláou Trikoúpi 31 t210 45 21 598. down here.The epicentre is
Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; E3. An around the crescent of Leofóros
excellent little museum, many of Angélou Metáxa, which curves
whose displays were dragged away from the coast road by
from the harbour bed. Specially Glyfádha’s main square.Virtually
good are the second-century- all the beaches here, and
AD stone reliefs of battles certainly all the more pleasant
between Greeks and Amazons, ones, charge for entry and offer
apparently mass-produced for all manner of activities: for a
quiet swim it’s better to
FERRY, PIREÁS
continue to Kavoúri or
Vouliagméni, where you still
have to pay but the atmosphere
is much more serene.
Vouliagméni itself is very
upmarket, its beautiful cove
beaches a traditional hang-out
of Athens’ rich and famous.
There is also pleasant (and free)
swimming to be enjoyed from
the rocks between here and the
resort of Várkiza, the last stop
for the local buses.
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129
Glyfádha transport
From central Athens take bus #A2 (which continues to Voúla), #E2 express, #A3 or
#B3: all of them leave from Akadhimías. For other beaches along the coast, trans-
fer onto local services #114 (Glyfádha–Kavoúri–Vouliagméni) or #115/6
(Glyfádha–Vouliagméni–Várkiza). The new coastal tram line should also start run-

ning in 2004, from Fáliro to Glyfádha.
Glou Exclusive
Koloktróni 9, Kifissiá. In the very
heart of the Kifissiá shopping
area, this Greek men’s fashion
chain is reasonably priced, though
the Exclusive bit of the name
indicates that it’s only the upper
end of their range on offer here.
Kaloyirou
Panayítsas 5, Kifissiá; Kkprou 72, Platía
Espéridhon, Glyfádha. Long-
established designer shoe store
(also with branches downtown).
Men’s and women’s ranges, from
Prada to Miu Miu, are stocked.
Li-La-Lo
Grigoríou Lambráki 16, cnr Angélou
VOULIAGMÉNI
Metáxa, Glyfádha. Big, glitzy jewellery
store specializing in silver.
Shops Preview
Central Prince Oliver Panayítsas 6, Kifissiá. Designer
Angélou Metáxa 23, Glyfádha. footwear – good range of lesser-
Upscale designer gear, known brands, though still
predominantly for men. expensive.
Ensayar
Angélou Metáxa 22 & 24–26, Glyfádha.
Men’s and women’s fashion in
Cafés
two shops (one apiece) from Ammonites Café-Restaurant
designer names such as Dolce Othónos 100, in the Gaia Centré
and Gabanna, and Voyage.This Goulandhrís Museum complex, Kifissiá.
street is lined with similar, if less Relaxed and luxurious, but the
glitzy, places.
Gallé
Kolokotróni 10, Kifissiá. Fashion
store with clothing, accessories
and shoes from the likes of Paul
Smith and Givenchy as well as
local designers. Marginally easier
on the wallet than neighbours
like Gucci and Kenzo.
KIFISSÍA
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130
sandwiches and light meals here food and atmosphere, with belly
come with a hefty price tag. dancers on Saturday nights.
Déja Vu Lifestyle Café Beer Garden Ritterburg

Platía Kefalaríou, Kifissiá. The name Ethnikís Andístasis 214, Kessarianí
says it all – come here to see t210 72 22 235. Closed Sun. Handily
and be seen while lingering situated right at the top of
over your cappuccino freddo or Kessarianí on the main road, this
salad lunch. German-themed places serves
Schnitzels, sausages and Bavarian
MoBi specialities, best sampled on a
Adhrianoú cnr Dhragoúmi, Kifissiá. variety plate.
Right opposite the metro
station, this is a handy place to Buffalo Bill
stop for a quick coffee and a Kkprou 13, Glyfádha t210 89 43 128.
sandwich. Eves only, plus Sun lunchtime; closed
Sun July–Aug. Get into the
Varsos Glyfádha mood at this lively,
Kassavéti 5, Kifissiá. This old- mid-priced Tex-Mex joint.As
fashioned patisserie specializing in you’d expect, there are steaks and
home-made yogurts, jams and chilli on offer, plus margaritas by
sticky cakes is a Kifissiá landmark, the jugful.
acting as a meeting place for the
whole neighbourhood. Dos Hermanos
Kyriazí 24, Kifissiá t210 80 17 337.
Closed Mon. Good Mexican food
Restaurants and tasty margaritas in a lively,
late-opening bar-restaurant,
Akhinós though with expensive Kifissiá
Aktí Themistokléous 51, Pireás t210 45 prices.
26 944. Wonderful seafood and
traditional Greek specialities Hard Rock Cafe
served on a covered terrace Etolikoú 28 cnr Papastrátou, Pireás
overlooking a small beach just t210 41 36 750. Burgers and beers
round the corner from the Naval in what seems an unusual
Museum. Pricey if you go for the location for a branch of the
fish, but less so than harbourfront international chain. In fact, this
alternatives. Book at weekends. industrial district behind the port
is becoming something of a
Akti nightlife hot spot, and this is the
Possidhónos 6, Vouliagméni t210 89 place to go before moving on to
60 448. Taverna right by the sea the clubs.
serving simple, fresh seafood. As
ever, fish is expensive but then Island
so is Vouliagméni and by those Limanakia Vouliagménis, km27 on
standards, Akti is good value. Athens-Soúnio road between
Waterfront tables are in great Vouliagméni and Várkiza t210 96 53
demand, so booking is essential. 563. Summer eves only. The place to
be seen, this bar-restaurant has a
Al Mawal magnificent view (if you get a
Marangoú 18, Glyfádha t210 89 44 table at the front), simple island
227. The best-value Lebanese decor, and an international menu
restaurant in Glyfádha – authentic at international prices. It serves
Contents Places
131
over Greece and smart, modern
decor make this a typical Kifissiá
hangout. It’s better value than
most, though, and often has
music on Friday and Saturday

nights.
Iy Orea Mykonos
Kilkís cnr Sfakión, Kastella, Pireás.
The hill above Mikrolímano has
great views and many
restaurants popular with locals.
This simple island-style fish
taverna, near the open-air
theatre, is one of the best, and
significantly cheaper than the
same fare on the waterfront.
MIKROLÍMANO, PIREÁS
Sotis
everything from sushi to steak, Konstantinoupóleos 9, Glyfádha t210
plus fine wines, and you’ll need 89 42 268. Greek taverna
to book. standards at reasonable prices in
this elegantly decorated place
Jimmy and the Fish right at the heart of Glyfádha’s
Aktí Koumoundhoúrou 46, Mikrolímano, restaurant strip, just off the main
Pireás t210 41 24 417. Excellent, square.
glamorous and inevitably
expensive fish taverna occupying TGI Fridays
the prime position among the Koloktróni 35, Platía Kefalaríou, Kifissiá
harbourside places on t210 62 33 947. Archetypal
Mikrolímano. Booking essential Kifissiá: burgers, ribs and mobile
at weekends. phones all round, but
considerably classier than the
Katsarina average branch of this chain.
Kifissías 311, Kifissiá t210 62 54 072.
Closed Wed. Excellent at the basics Time
– grilled meat and plain Greek Skouzé 14, Pireás t210 42 85 937.
dishes.There’s something of a The cosmopolitan nature of
crowd of (mainly Greek) Pireás is very much in evidence
restaurants on this stretch of here: this authentic, inexpensive
Leofóros Kifissías, about 700m Indo-Pakistani restaurant caters
north of Platía Platánou. largely to locals, in the midst of
a small ethnic and red-light
Masa quarter.
Ethnikís Andístasis 240, Kessarianí
t210 72 36 177. Closed Mon. Trata
Straightforward, inexpensive Platía Anayeníseos 7–9, Kessarianí
Greek taverna with good, simple t210 72 91 533. Closed Aug. Well-
food and barrel wines. known fish restaurant on a
square with several tavernas just
Monippo off Ethnikís Andístasis. Fish is
Dhrosíni 12, Kifissiá t210 62 31 440. always pricey in Athens, but this
Wide range of mezédhes from all is good value.
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132
Vincenzo Sussex Inn
Yiannitsopoúlou 1, Platía Espéridhon, Dhousmáni 8–10, Glyfádha t210 89
Glyfádha t210 89 41 310. Fine, 41 736. An English Pub right in
reasonably priced Italian fare, the heart of Glyfádha – with
including excellent pizzas from dartboard, rock music, Caffrey’s
a wood oven. and a quiz night every Thursday.
To Voliótiko 1911 Tesseres Epohes

Goúnari 9, Pireás t210 42 25 905. Platía Ayíou Dhimítriou 13, Kifissiá
Traditional Greek taverna right t210 80 18 233. An unpretentious
in the heart of the port area. little bar where you can enjoy
Gastronomy isn’t this area’s drinks, snacks, and excellent,
forte, but this is good value, and unamplified live Greek music.
a good option if you’re waiting
for a ferry.
Clubs
Bars New York Summer
Ethnárkhou Makaríou 10, Fáliro, near
Action Folie Stádhio Filías & Irínis t210 48 34 190.
Aktí Dhilavéri 9–11, Mikrolímano, Oriental in decor, the music
Pireás t210 41 74 325. Café-bar remains firmly Western, with
that’s open all day and most of popular dance sounds as well as
the night, every day.The tables Greek hits.
outside make a good place to
check out all the action of this Sidera Fire Club
buzzing nightlife area. Egáleo 21 cnr Mesolongíou, Pireás
t210 46 12 777. Big club with
Appaloosa three bars and a mix of music
Aktí Koumoundoúrou 62, Mikrolímano, from Greek to modern dance.
Pireás t210 42 20 138. A pub-bar
that’s open all day and late into Studio 54
the night.Terrace seating on the Ríbas 1, Várkiza t210 96 56 150.
waterfront, and a menu as varied Recently reinventing itself into
as cheese fondue, souvlaki and one of the hot spots in this
spaghetti, plus breakfasts and buzzing seaside suburb, Studio
Murphy’s stout. 54 plays standard dance vibes.
Sofa Café Venue

Possidhónos 32, Glyfádha t210 98 16 Km 30 on the Athens–Soúnio road,
092. Tranquil café-bar, with Várkiza t210 89 70 333. Venue’s
ambient music in the evenings, a lush setting and eclectic
popular place to chill out selection of dance music –
among the big clubs along the including some Greek – attracts
seafront boulevard. a young crowd.
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133
Attica
Attica (Attikí), the region encompassing the capital, is
not much explored by tourists – only the great romantic
PLACES Attica
ruin of the Temple of Poseidon at Cape Soúnio is well-
known. Yet a trip out here makes for a pleasant break,
with much of Greece in microcosm to be seen within an
hour or two of the capital. There’s mountainside at
Párnitha, rewarding archeological sites in Brauron and
Ramnous, and, if the heat is getting to you, plenty of
beaches too. Combine a couple of these with a meal at
one of the scores of seaside psarotavernas (fish restau-
rants), always packed out on summer weekends, and
you’ve got a more than worthwhile day out.
Cape Soúnio major sanctuary to the sea god.

A dramatic vantage point from Doric in style, it was built in the
which to look out over the time of Pericles, probably by the
Aegean, Cape Soúnio (Akrotíri architect of the Hephaisteion in
Souníou) has for centuries been the Athens Agora. It owes much
a landmark for boats sailing of its fame to Byron, who
between Pireás and the islands. visited in 1810, carved his name
On its tip stands the captivating on the nearest pillar (an
Temple of Poseidon unfortunate and much-copied
(Tues–Sun 10am–sunset; e5), precedent) and immortalized
the heart of what was once a the place in verse.The setting is
Attica transport
Soúnio buses depart on the hour and half-hour from the KTEL terminal on
Mavrommatéon at the southwest corner of the Pedhíon Áreos Park; there’s also a
more central (but in summer, very full) stop ten minutes later on Filellínon, south
of Skndagma at the corner of Xenofóndos. There are both coastal (paraliakó) and
inland (mesoyiakó) services, the latter slightly longer and more expensive. The
coast route normally takes around two hours; last departures back to Athens are
posted at the Soúnio stop.
There are frequent buses to Rafína (40min) and several a day to Marathónas
(many via the beaches at Skhiniás), Loútsa and Pórto Ráfti (Pórto Ráfti buses
sometimes give the final destination as Avláki).
For Vravróna it’s easiest to go to Loútsa, and then transfer to the local bus that
plies up and down the coast road: this bus stops right outside the site (look for the
Club Med, directly opposite) and terminates just beyond. Ramnous is not realisti-
cally accessible by public transport, though you should get a lift for the final few kilo-
metres if you take a bus to Ayía Marína (several daily) and hitch from the junction.
Buses to Párnitha run from Platía Váthis twice daily, at 6.30am (6.40am week-
ends) and 2.30pm, with extra services on Sunday at 8am and 3.40pm. Buses to
Fylí also leave from Platía Váthis.
For Eleusis take bus #A16 from Platía Eleftherías, on Pireós. Ask to be dropped at
the “Heroön” (Sanctuary), to the left of the main road, a short way into Elefsína. A
trip to Eleusis is easily combined with Dhafní (p.123), which you pass on the way.
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PLACES 134
CAPE SOÚNIO
propylaion (entrance hall) and

Attica
wonderful – on a clear day the stoa; cuttings for two shipsheds;

view takes in the islands of Kéa, and the foundations of a small
Kathnos and Sérifos to the Temple of Athena.The port of
southeast, Égina and the Lávrio, a little further round
Peloponnese to the west – and the coast, has numerous cafés
the temple’s picturesque semi- and restaurants, as well as a one-
ruined state makes this as room Archeological Museum
evocative a site as any in Greece. (Mon & Wed–Sun 10am–3pm;
Come early or late, though, if free) with finds from the site.
you want to avoid the crowds.
The rest of the site is of more The east coast: Rafína to
academic interest.There are Pórto Ráfti
remains of a fortification wall The east coast is a favourite
around the sanctuary; a weekend and holiday escape for
Vólos & Thessaloníki

Old Road to Delphi via
Thíva (Thebes) & Aigosthena
0 10 km Malakássa Ramnous
Límni
Áyia Triádha Marathóna
Skípiza Áy. Marina
Évvia
Báfi Refuge Marathónas

E75
Pan Cave Skhiniás

Párnitha
Phyle Klistón Thrakomakedhónes Áyios
Marathon Pandelímonas
Filí Néa Mákri
Menídhi
ATTIKÍ ODHÓS Pendéli
KIFISSIA
Eleusis
Elefsína PSYHIKO Rafína

Kórinthos & the Peloponnese
Palíni
tro
Salamína Dhafní
Loútsa
Me
Pérama
Peanía
Spáta Vravróna
Pireás ATHENS Kessarianí (Brauron)
M Eleftherios Venìzelos
Imittós E
Salamína Airport
The Cyclades
S
Pórto Ráfti
O
Markópoulo
Y
Glyfádha
ÍA
Voúla
Kavoúri Várkiza
Vouliagméni
Lagoníssi
Póros, Ídhra & Spétses
N
Kéa & K/thnos
Égina
Anávissos
sos
Ay. Marina
rónis
Égina Lávrio
Mak
Soúnio
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135
village of Marathónas, 42km
from Athens. Here, in 490 BC, a
force of 9000 Athenians and
1000 of their Plataian allies
defeated a Persian army 25,000
PLACES Attica
strong. After the victory a
runner was sent to Athens to
declare the news: having run the
first marathon, he delivered his
message and dropped dead.
Just 192 Athenians died in the
battle (compared to some 6000
Persians), and the burial mound
where they were laid, the
Tbmvos Marathóna
FERRY, RAFÍNA
(Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; e3),
can still be seen, off the road
jaded Athenians.The main route between Rafína and
out of the city heads straight for Marathónas. Consisting only of
the little port of Rafína, from overgrown earth piled ten
where you can head off to metres high, now rather
numerous islands, including overgrown and neglected, it is a
nearby Évvia. Boats aside, the quietly impressive monument.
appeal of the place is mainly The Mound of the Plataians,
gastronomic: the little fishing where the eleven Plataians
harbour’s line of roof-terrace (including a ten-year-old boy)
seafood restaurants is one of the who died were laid to rest, is
most inviting spots on Attica’s about 5km away near the edge
coast, with views of the comings of the mountain; there’s also an
and goings of the port a free archeological museum here
extra. (Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm; e3),
There are local beaches in easy with a sparse collection of
walking distance, and others, all artefacts, mainly from the local
with more seafront dining, Cave of Pan, a deity felt to have
further away along the coast.To aided the victory.
the north, en route to Marathon Marathónas village itself has
or Ramnous, Néa Mákri lies at plenty of places to eat, but there
the heart of a string of small are many more attractive options
beach developments. South, if you head for the coast.
there’s continual development
down through Loútsa to Skhiniás
Vravróna (p.136). Pórto Ráfti, Skhiniás, a long, pine-backed
just beyond, is more attractive, strand with shallow water, is one
with a scattering of popular of the best free beaches within
waterfront restaurants and, in easy reach of Athens. Big
summer, a thriving nightlife enough to allow some chance of
scene. escaping the crowds, its
southern parts are relatively
Marathon developed, with a number of
The site of the most famous and cordoned-off pay-beach sections
arguably most important and beach clubs offering
military victory in Athenian showers, umbrellas and
history is not far from the watersports. Further north
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136
there’s far less development Vravróna
apart from scattered tavernas on Site & museum summer Mon
the sand. 12.30–7pm, Tues–Sun 8am–7pm;
winter Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm. e3.
Ramnous Ancient Vravróna, also known as
Attica PLACES
Summer Mon 12.30–7pm, Tues–Sun Brauron, is one of the most

8am–7pm; winter Tues–Sun enjoyable minor Greek sites.
8.30am–3pm. e2. The little-visited The remains, centred on a vast
ruins of Ramnous stoa, are of a Sanctuary of
(Ramnoúndas) occupy an Artemis, goddess of hunting and
isolated, atmospheric hillside site childbirth, and protector of
with magnificent views steeply new-born children.Vravróna
down to the sea and across the was the chief site of the Artemis
strait to Évvia.The site was an cult, which staged an important
Athenian lookout point from the festival every four years.This
earliest times, and remains of featured a procession from
walls and fortifications can clearly Athens and other rites, now
be seen continuing way below shrouded in mystery, in which
the fenced site, all the way down young girls dressed as bears to
to the rocky shore. enact a ritual connected with
Within the site, the principal the goddess and childbirth.
ruin is a Doric Temple of The Stoa of the Bears,
Nemesis, goddess of divine where these initiates stayed, has
retribution. Pausanias records that been substantially reconstructed,
the Persians incurred her wrath along with a stone bridge; both
by their presumption in bringing are fifth century BC. Somewhat
with them to Greece a giant scantier are the ruins of the
marble block upon which they temple itself, whose stepped
intended to commemorate their foundations can be made out;
victory.They met their nemesis, immediately adjacent, the sacred
however, at the battle of spring still wells up, squirming
Marathon, and the Athenians used with tadpoles in spring. Nearby,
the marble to create a statue steps lead up to a chapel which
instead.There are also the remains contains some damaged frescoes.
of a smaller temple dedicated to The site – frequently
Themis, goddess of justice, and a waterlogged – overlooks a
section of ancient road. marshy bay, which comes alive
RAMNOUS
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137
and multicoloured paint
splodges on the trees).The
principal ones are the approach
to the Báfi refuge up the Hoúni
ravine, and the walk to the
PLACES Attica
Skípiza spring. Another highly
evocative spot for lovers of
classical ghosts is the Cave of
Pan, which Menander used as
the setting for one of his plays.
The best approach is by track
and trail from the chapel of Ayía
Triádha, 2.3km west of the top
station of the Mount Párnitha
télephérique. A topographical
map showing local landmarks
(labelled in Greek) is posted just
behind the church.
FORTRESS AT PHYLE
The mountain is also home to
the ruined but still impressive
early in the morning and late at fourth-century-BC Athenian fort
night with birdsong and the of Phyle, about an hour and
croaking of frogs.The site three-quarters on foot beyond
museum lies down here, a the village of Fylí (known locally
good 2km away by road.Various as Khasiá) via the restored
finds from the sanctuary are fourteenth-century monastery
displayed, including some of Klistón. Fylí itself is a
marble heads modelled after the popular country culinary outing
little girls, and bear-masks. for Athenians with lots of family-
style tavernas and restaurants.
Mount Párnitha and Phyle Note that roads on Párnitha
Scarcely an hour’s bus ride from are notoriously bereft of
Athens’ city centre, Mount signposts – so if you’re driving,
Párnitha is an unexpectedly vast Road Editions’ 1:50,000
and virgin tract of forest, rock Párnitha map is highly
and ravine. It will give you a recommended.
taste of what Greek mountains
are all about, including a good Eleusis (Elefsína)
selection of mountain flowers. Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm. e3. The
The trip is especially Sanctuary of Demeter at
worthwhile in March or April, Eleusis, on the edge of the
when snow lies surprisingly late modern town of Elefsína, at the
on the north side and, in its beginning of the Sacred Way to
wake, carpets of crocus, alpine Athens, was one of the most
squills and mountain windflower important in the ancient Greek
spring from the mossy ground, world. For two millennia, the
while lower down you’ll find ritual ceremonies known as the
aubretia, tulips, dwarf iris and a Mysteries were performed here.
whole range of orchids. Much The ruins of the sanctuary,
of the mountain is now a however, though extensive, date
National Park, and there are from several different ages of
numerous waymarked paths on rebuilding and are largely
the mountain (look for red discs reduced to foundations. It’s hard
Contents Places
138
The Mysteries of Eleusis
The ancient Mysteries had an effect on their initiates equal to that of any modern
cult. According to Pindar, who experienced the rites in Classical times and, like all
others, was bound on pain of death not to reveal their content, anyone who has
“seen the holy things [at Eleusis] and goes in death beneath the earth is happy,
Attica PLACES
for he knows life’s end and he knows the new divine beginning.”
Established in Mycenaean times, perhaps as early as 1500 BC, the cult centred
around the figure of Demeter, the goddess of corn, and the myth of her daughter
Persephone’s annual descent into and resurrection from the underworld, which
came to symbolize the rebirth of the crops (and the gods responsible for them) and
the miracle of fertility.
By the fifth century BC the cult had developed into a sophisticated annual fes-
tival, attracting up to 30,000 people from all over the Greek world. Participants
gathered in Athens, outside the Propylaia on the Acropolis, and, after various ritu-
als, including mass bathing and purification in the sea at Fáliro, followed the
Sacred Way to the sanctuary here at Eleusis. One theory suggests that one of the
rituals entailed drinking a potion containing grain-ergot fungus, producing similar
effects to those of modern psychedelic drugs. The Mysteries survived well into the
Christian era, but eventually fell victim to the new orthodoxy.
to work out what’s what, so the

best plan is to head for the
Restaurants
museum, which features models Akriogiali
of the sanctuary at various stages Just before the turn-off for the Aigeo
in its history and some excellent hotel, Soúnio t229 20 39 107.
finds from the site.This will Oct–April closed eves. This blue-
point you in the direction of the and-white taverna has both
most important of the remains, character and history – a
the Telesterion.This number of illustrious Greek
windowless Hall of Initiation lay guests have dined here.The
at the heart of the cult: it was food, mainly fish, is simple but
here that the priests of Demeter cooked to perfection.
would exhibit the “Holy
Things” – presumably sheaves of I Avli tou Antoni
fungus-infected grain, or vessels Nikoláou Plastíra 10, Néa Mákri t229
containing the magic potion – 40 97 709. Fri–Sun eves only.
and speak “the Unutterable Excellent home-made mezédhes
Words” whilst under their and mayireftá, moderately priced.
hallucinogenic influence.
I Avra
Limáni, Rafína t229 40 91 598. Set
on the harbour, I Avra serves
pricey but well-prepared grilled
fish and salads that even feature
fresh coriander, otherwise a
rarity in Greece.
Farangi
Leofóros Fylís, Fylí t210 24 11 475.
Moderately priced, hearty grills
and mezédhes are the order of
the day here.
ELEUSIS
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139
Ioakeim Rombolo
Limáni, Rafína t229 40 23 421. One Leofóros Marathónos, a little way out of
of the better harbour tavernas, Rafína on the way to Marathon t229
with prices that reflect this, 40 32 900. Closed eves & Mon. This
Ioakeim has been around for over mid-range, family-style
PLACES Attica
fifty years. Fish features in the restaurant has live music on
main, but try the wild leaf salads Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
or seaweed in season; there’s also
excellent pickled octopus. Sta Kala Kathoumena
Vasiléos Georgíou 8, Rafína t229 40
Kali Kardia 25 688. The moderately priced
Just behind the Town Hall, Kostí Palamá dishes show a marked home-
12, Rafína t229 40 23 856. Mon–Thurs cooking bent and include
eves only, Fri, Sat & Sun all day. The Constantinopolitan dishes such
inexpensive Kali Kardia specializes as gardhoúmbes (entrail sausages)
in grills, with excellent beef and pastourmadhélia (smoked and
patties and spare ribs. spiced meat wedges).
Kavouri Syrtaki
Perikléous 24, Paralía Marathóna Soúnio t229 20 39 125. Close to
t22940 55243. Mainly fish, with the ancient site and with a
a smattering of moderately stunning view, this simple
priced grilled meats and various taverna serves traditional dishes
mezédhes. in which fish features
predominantly.
Psarotaverna Paradhosiako
Paralía, Lávrio t229 20 60 841. Tria Adhelfia
Right on the waterfront, the Paralía Marathóna t229 40 56 461. A
excellent fish served here comes decent waterside taverna on the
straight from the boats – though beach at Marathon, with
as ever, it’s not cheap. middling prices.
Psaropoula-Bibikos Vrakha
Leofóros Avlakíou 118, Pórto Ráfti t229 Leofóros Plákas 99, Lávrio t229 20
90 71 292. A good fish taverna, 27 745. A good, inexpensive
also serving grilled meats and a place to sample suckling pig and
few mayireftá dishes, at prices that lamb cooked in vine leaves, or a
won’t break the bank. wide range of mayireftá.
TAVERNA, LÁVRIO Xypolitos
25th Martíou & Georgíou Papadópoulou
1, Loútsa t229 40 28 342. Mon–Fri
eves only, Sat & Sun all day. Xypolitos
is one of the oldest and best fish
tavernas along the coast,
although it’s a little pricey.
Contents Places
140
Further afield
With the use of a hire car or by taking one of many tours
available out of Athens, you can visit a wealth of sites
Further afield PLACES
and attractions, all within a few hours’ reach. Highlights

include the stunning ruins of Delphi (site of the famous
Delphic Oracle in ancient times), mountain hiking on the
slopes of Mount Parnassós and the impressive ancient
sites of Tiryns and Mycenae. From the port of Pireás,
too, you can easily jump on a comfortable ferry or fast
hydrofoil and be on a Greek island in the Argo-Saronic
gulf within an hour or two, making for some wonderfully
varied day-trips – although you may want to enjoy longer
outings by taking advantage of the countless places to
stay you’ll find everywhere you go.
Mt Parnassós
Delphi Aráhova
N
Dhelfí
Itéa
Livadhiá
Galaxídhi
Thíva
Gulf of Corinth
hiakoftó
Pórto
Akráta Yermenó
Dhervéni
Spíleo
Perahóra
Xylókastro Elefsína
Sólos● Kiáto Mégara ATHENS
ELMÓS Loutráki
KYLLÍNI
f Kórinthos
kes
Pireás
● Feneós K O R INTHÍA Salamína
Kastariá Corinth
Kartéri Lake
Stymfalía
Égina
Mycenae
Fíkhti ARGOLÍDHA Angístri Skála Ayía Marína
Égina
Paleá Epídhavros
ÉNALO Árgos
Lygourió
Epidauros Méthana
Tir yns
HÍA
Trípoli Náfplio Póros Póros
TolóKastráki
Parálio Ástros Galatás
Ermióni
Ástros Kranídhi Ídhra
Áyios Andhréas Pórto Héli Ídhra
Kósta
Paralía Tyroú Spétses
0 20 km
Leonídhi
Pláka
PÁ
Contents Places
THOLOS, DELPHI
141
ideally at the beginning or end
of the day, or (in winter) at
lunchtime, to escape the crowds.
The Sacred Precinct
contains most of the sights –
PLACES Further afield

including the Temple of
Apollo, the impressive theatre
and the stadium. The
Marmaria, or Sanctuary of
Athena, lies further east,
about a ten-minute walk along
the main road and on the
opposite side. The most
conspicuous building in the
precinct is the Tholos, a
fourth-century BC rotunda.
Three of its dome-columns
and their entablature have been
re-constructed but while these
Delphi amply demonstrate the original
Sacred Precinct daily: summer beauty of the building, its
7.30am–7pm; winter 8am–5pm; e6, ultimate purpose still remains a
or e9 joint ticket with museum. mystery. The historic Castalian
Museum summer: Mon–Fri spring is located on a sharp
7.30am–6.45pm, Sat & Sun bend between the Marmaria
8.30am–2.45pm; winter daily and the Sacred Precinct. It is
8.30am–2.45pm. e6, or e9 joint ticket marked by niches for votive
with site. Sanctuary of Athena daily: offerings and by the remains of
summer 8am–7pm; winter 8am–5pm; an archaic fountain house –
free. With its site raised on the water still flows from a cleft in
slopes of a high mountain the Phaedriades cliffs.
terrace and dwarfed to either Modern Dhelfí, just west of
side by the massive crags of the site, enjoys an impressive
Mount Parnassós, it’s easy to see location. Almost entirely geared
why the ancients believed to tourism, its attraction lies in
Delphi to be the centre of the its mountain setting, its
earth. As if the natural setting proximity to the ancient ruins
and occasional earthquake and and its access to the popular
avalanche weren’t enough to skiing centre of Mount
confirm a divine presence, this, Parnassós.There is a helpful
according to Plutarch, was tourist office (Mon–Fri
where a rock chasm was 7.30am–2.30pm; t226 50 82
discovered that exuded strange 900) in the town hall on the
vapours and reduced people to lower main thoroughfare.
frenzied, incoherent and Up to six buses a day run
prophetic mutterings.Thus was direct to Delphi from Athens,
born the famous Delphic leaving from the Liossíon
Oracle, to which kings and terminal. It’s also possible to
simple citizens flocked in an travel by train, though this
attempt to forsee their future. involves changing at Livadhiá
Delphi is a large and complex and a local bus from there. If
ruin, best taken in two stages, you’re driving, take the old road
with the sanctuary and precinct towards Thebes.
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142
The Delphic Oracle
The origins of the Delphic Oracle are uncertain but it was believed by the ancients
that the first oracle established on this spot was dedicated to Gea (Mother Earth)
and to Poseidon (the Earth Shaker). Subsequently the serpent Python, son of Gea,
was installed in a nearby cave, and communication made through the Pythian
priestess. Python was later slain by Apollo, whose cult had been imported from
Crete. Legend has it that he arrived in the form of a dolphin – hence the name
Delphoi.
For over a thousand years thereafter, a steady stream of pilgrims made its way
up the dangerous mountain paths to Delphi in order seek divine direction in mat-
ters of war, worship, love or business. On arrival they would sacrifice a sheep or
a goat and, depending on the omens, wait to submit questions inscribed on lead
tablets. The Pythian priestess, a simple and devout village woman of fifty or more
years in age, would chant her prophecies from a tripod positioned over the orac-
ular chasm.
Many of the oracular answers were equivocal. Croesus, for example, was told
that if he embarked on war against neighbouring Persia he would destroy a mighty
empire; he did – his own. But it’s hard to imagine that the oracle would have
retained its popularity and influence for so long without offering predominantly
sound advice.
One theory suggests that the prophetic inspiration of the Oracle was due to geo-
logic phenomena. The oracle may have been deliberately sited over a geological
or earthquake fault line that emitted trance-inducing gases such as methane or
ethane, which could have produced the kind of trances and behaviour described
by ancient witnesses of the Pythian priestesses.
Aráhova with skiers, but it’s worth a brief

The strung-out village of stop at any time of year to
Aráhova, dwarfed by the peaks browse the wide variety of local
of Parnassós, is a picturesque produce – including wine,
little place, with its vernacular cheese and local pasta known as
architecture, stone walls, wooden hilópittes – and to wander the
eaves, and shops selling all kinds attractive backstreets winding off
of craftware and foodstuffs. the busy main road.There’s a
During the winter it’s popular wide selection of good places to
wine and dine, many distinctly
TEMPLE OF ZEUS, DELPHI
upmarket. Not all are open in
summer, however.
The local festival of Áyios
Yeóryios (April 23, or the
Tuesday after Easter if this date
falls within Lent), centred on the
church at the top of the hill, is
the excuse for almost two days
of continuous partying, and one
of the best opportunities in the
region to see authentic folk-
dancing.
There are daily buses to and
from Athens and Delphi.
Contents Places
143
DELPHI: THE SACRED PRECINCT

N

Temenos of
Dionysos
Stadium
Theatre
Temenos of
Stage Poseidon
ay
Sacred W Altar of
Apollo
Sacred Way
Temple of Apollo
Terrace
Polygonal
Wall
Sanctuary of Gea Athenian Stoa
Bouleuterion ay
dW
cre
Sa
Treasury of
the Athenians
Monument of
the Admirals
Theban Treasury
Sacred
Siphnian Treasury Way
Main Entrance
Sikyonian Treasury
Offering of the Arcadians

0 20 m
Offering of Marathon
Mount Parnassós the area remains an attractive

Mount Parnassós, rising to break from the city.
almost 2500 metres at its highest The best routes for walkers are
point, is a popular climbing and those up from Dhelfí to the
walking destination, as well as a Corycian cave (practicable
ski centre in winter.The heights from April to Nov, but not in
are easily accessible, and though midsummer without a dawn
they no longer rank as complete start), or the ascent to the
wilderness, thanks to the ski summit of Mount Liákoura
station above Aráhova and its (2455m) that commences from
accompanying paraphernalia of the Yerondóvrakhos ski station
lifts, snack bars and access roads, (May–Oct only).With your
Contents Places
144
own transport you could drive overlooking the Saronic and
up the mountain from Aráhova Corinthian gulfs, you really get
on the south, or from Lílea, a sense of its strategic
Poladhrosos or Amfília on the importance. Amid the extensive
north slope, any of which can remains, you wander through a
easily be combined with a walk. jumble of chapels, mosques,

For extended explorations, houses and battlements, erected
Road Editions’ 1:50,000 map in turn by Greeks, Romans,
no. 42, Parnassos, is a wise Byzantines, Frankish crusaders,
investment, with an attached Venetians and Turks.
booklet summarizing a route to
the Corycian cave. Epidauros
Site: daily 8am–7pm. Museum:
Corinth summer Mon noon–7pm, Tues–Sun
Corinth daily: summer 8.30am–7pm; 8am–7pm; winter closes 5pm. e6.
winter 8am–5pm. e6. Acrocorinth: Epidauros (Epídhavros) is visited
summer daily 8am–7pm; winter primarily for its stunning
Tues–Sun 8.30am–3pm. Free. The ancient theatre, built around
ruins of ancient Corinth, which 330–320 BC, whose setting
displaced Athens as capital of the makes a compelling venue for
Greek province in Roman productions of Classical drama
times, occupy a rambling as part of the annual Hellenic
sequence of sites that encompass Festival (see p.170). With its
sections of ancient walls, backdrop of rolling hills,
outlying stadiums, gymnasiums Epidauros’s 14,000-seat theatre
and necropolises.The main merges perfectly into the
enclosure is given a sense of landscape – so well, in fact, that
scale by the majestic ruin of the it was rediscovered only in the
Temple of Apollo. Most nineteenth century. Constructed
compelling, though, are the ruins with mathematical precision, it
of the medieval city, which has near-perfect acoustics – such
occupy the stunning acropolis of that you can hear coins, or even
Acrocorinth, towering 565m matches, dropped in the circular
above the ancient city on an orchestra from the highest of
enormous mass of rock, still the 54 tiers of seats.
largely encircled by two The theatre, however, is just
kilometres of wall.This became one component of what was
one of Greece’s most powerful one of the most important
fortresses during the Middle sanctuaries in the ancient world,
Ages. dedicated to the healing god
There’s a four-kilometre climb Asklepios. A place of pilgrimage
to the entrance gate, but once for half a millennium, from the
you’ve reached the top and are sixth century BC into Roman
times, it’s now a World Heritage
ACROCORINTH
site. Close by the theatre is a
small museum, which is best
visited before you explore the
rest of the sanctuary – most of
the ruins visible today are just
foundations, so calling here
helps identify some of the
former buildings. The finds
displayed show the progression
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145
Náfplio
A lively, beautifully
sited town, Náfplio
exudes a grand, slightly
faded elegance,
PLACES
inherited from the days
when it was the
fledgling capital of
modern Greece in the
early nineteenth
Further afield
century.The postcard-
pretty old town, with
EPIDAUROS
its paved and mostly
pedestrianized streets, has an
of medical skills and cures used abundance of colourful and
at the Asklepion; there are tastefully decorated restaurants
tablets recording miraculous and handicraft shops, and there’s
cures alongside advanced- a pleasant buzz that you don’t
looking surgical instruments. often witness in Greek towns.
For the fit, the climb up to the
twin fortresses of Palamídhi
EPIDAURUS (EPÍDHAVROS)
N
Abaton
Temple of
Asklepios
Tholos Sanctuary of
Egyptian Gods
Asklepian Sanctuary
Stadium
Odeion
Gymnasium
Greek Baths
Parking
Museum
Hotel Xenia
0 100 m Ancient
Theatre
Contents Places
146
(daily: summer 8am–7pm; surrounded by citrus groves,
winter 8am–6.30pm; e4), out alongside a large modern
on the headland and prison.The setting is less
overlooking the old town, is impressive than that of its showy
well worth the effort.The neighbour Mycenae, which in
town’s third fort, the stunning part explains why this highly
Boúrtzi, occupies the Ayíou accessible, substantial site is
Theodhórou islet offshore from relatively empty of visitors; the
the harbour, and was built in opportunity to wander about
1473 by the Venetians to control Homer’s “wall-girt Tiryns” in
the shipping lane to the town near-solitude is worth taking.
and to much of Árgos bay. The site lies just to the east of
Café life – swelled at the main Árgos–Náfplio road,
weekends by crowds of visiting and frequent local buses drop off
Athenians – reaches the heights and pick up passengers outside.
of urban chic in the well-
patronized cafés lining the Mycenae
palm-tree fringed western Tucked into a fold of the hills
seafront of Bouboulínas.Things just east of the road from
are quieter on Platía Kórinthos to Árgos, the citadel
Syndágmatos, where places stay at Mycenae (Mykínes) (daily:
open late. summer 8am–7pm; winter
You can get to Náfplio by bus 8.30am–3pm; e6) bears
or – much slower but much testament above all to the
more attractive – by twice-daily obsession of the German
train. Both bus and train stations archeologist Heinrich
are within a 500m walk of the Schliemann (who also excavated
old town precinct. the site of Troy) with proving
that the tales of Homer had
Tiryns their basis in fact.
Daily: summer 8am–7pm; winter The extensive site is made up
8.30am–3pm. e3. In Mycenaean of two parts – the citadel itself
times the ancient fortress of and the Treasury of Atreus.The
Tiryns (Tíryntha) commanded most visually arresting part of
the coastal approaches to Árgos the citadel is the Lion Gate,
and Mycenae.The Aegean whose huge sloping gateposts
shore, however, gradually and walls were considered
receded, leaving this impressive Cyclopean by later Greeks, who
structure stranded on a low could only imagine that a
hillock in today’s plains, Cyclops could have constructed
them. Beyond the
Lion Gate is an
impressive Grave
Circle known as
“A” and originally
thought by
Schliemann to be
the actual tomb of
Agamemnon. It
was here that the
famous gold death
mask (see p.10) was
found in 1876.The
TIRYNS
Contents Places
147

MYCENAE
rest of the site is scattered over Égina

the hillside, while just down the Barely an hour and a half from
road is the tremendously Pireás, the rural island of Égina
impressive Treasury of Atreus, can easily be visited in a day.
which is what is now described Most visitors spend their day
as the Tomb of Agamemnon. ambling around the boat-packed
This was certainly a royal burial waterfront or through the back
vault at a late stage in Mycenae’s streets of the island’s main town
history, so the attribution to – also called Égina. Making use
Agamemnon or his father is as of the decent local bus service,
good as any.Whoever it might you could also head for the
have belonged to, this beehive- exceptionally well-preserved,
like structure is an impressive beautiful fifth-century BC
monument to Mycenaean Temple of Afaia (Mon–Fri
building skills. 8.15am–7pm daily; e4), which
Entrance
Grave Gate Tomb of
■ ■
ANCIENT MYCENAE
■
■
■
Circle B Aegisthus
■
■
■
■
■
■ ■
■
■ ■ Postern
■
■ ■
Lion Gate Royal
■
Gate
■
■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■
■
Palace
■ ■ ■
■
■
P Tomb of Grave Secret

■
■
Clytemnestra Circle A Cistern ■

■
■
■
T H E C I TA D E L
■
■ Bastion
Throne
■
▲▲▲
■
■
Room
■
South
■
■
■ ■
House Great Megaron House of
▲▲▲
▲
■
■
■ ■ Columns
■
Court
▲▲
■
■ ▲▲▲ ▲ ▲
■
■
■ N
■
▲
Merchants’ ▲
■
▲
■ ■
▲▲
▲▲▲ ▲ ▲
Houses ■
▲▲▲▲
■
■
■
Treasury of
Atreus LOWER CITY
(Tomb of ▲▲ ▲ ▲
▲ ▲▲▲
Agamemnon) P
▲▲▲
Entrance Gate 0 50 m
▲
▲▲
Modern village of Mykínes (2 km)
Contents Places
Further afield PLACES 148
FERRY TICKET BOOTHS
stands in lonely vigil at the Apónisos, with its two tiny

northeastern corner of the island; offshore islets. On the way
or the low-key fishing village of you’ll pass Malos (Megalokhóri)
Pérdhika with its cosy harbour and the small farming
and fish tavernas that are often community of Limenária, set at
frequented by Athenian yachties; the edge of a fertile plateau in
or perhaps the east coast resort the southeast corner of the
village of Ayía Marína. island.
There’s a good selection of There’s a decent sandy beach
accommodation in the port of at Skála, though you may find a
Égina, and plenty of good little more seclusion at
tavernas – restaurants here tend Halikádha pebble beach
to specialize in fish, usually (clothing optional), backed by
rather cheaper than in Athens or crumbling cliffs and pine-
Pireás.The island is also a big covered hills on the east side of
producer of pistachio nuts, and the island.
during the summer months you
can see the orchards around the Póros
island laden with them. Separated from the mainland by
Transport to and from the just a 450-metre strait, Póros
island is frequent and good; (The Ford) is in fact two islands:
you’ve a choice of ferries or Sferiá (occupied almost entirely
hydrofoils, and advance booking by Póros Town), and the much
is unnecessary – just turn up at more extensive Kalávria. Its
the ferry quay in Pireás and buy proximity to Pireás means it’s
a ticket from the booths. hugely popular, making Póros
Town, which is exceptionally
Angístri picturesque, a lively, animated
Just one hour’s ferry trip from place to be.The cafés, waterfront
Pireás – or fifteen minutes from tavernas and restaurants
Égina – Angístri is small enough entertain a seemingly endless
to be explored on foot, from the flow of customers, while
port of Skála to the delightful fishermen attempt to sell their
little bay, beach and hamlet of catch to passers by.There’s little
Contents Places
149
specific to seek out, although most of them built during the
the hilltop clocktower and eighteenth century on the
small, well-labelled archeological accumulated wealth of a
museum (Mon–Sat remarkable merchant fleet, were
8.30am–3pm; free) are worth a designed by Venetian and

look. For a more peaceful Genoese architects and are still
escape, head over to Kalávria, the great monuments of the
whose south coast is fringed by island. A town map is available
a succession of pine-shaded if you are interested in seeking
bays. any out – some are labelled at
the entrance with “Oikía”
Ídhra (home) and the family name.
The port and town of Ídhra Ídhra also reputedly has no
(Hydra), with tiers of greystone fewer than 365 churches – a
mansions and white-walled, total claimed by many a Greek
red-tiled houses climbing island, but here with some
steeply up from a perfect justice. The most important is
horseshoe harbour, make a the church of Panayía
magnificent spectacle. Both Mitropóleos, with a distinctive
beautiful and peaceful – thanks clocktower and a Byzantine
to an almost total ban on museum (Tues–Sun
motor vehicles – it is not 10am–5pm; e2). Thanks to the
surprisingly popular.You’ll see lack of transport, few people
it at its best if you visit on a venture away from the town, so
weekday or out of season: on a short walk will take you to
the plus side, the visitors mean surprising isolation; there are
plenty of excellent restaurants no real sandy beaches, but
and cafés, getting less expensive numerous rocky coves are
as you head away from the accessible (with less effort, you
waterfront. can also get to many by boat or
The mansions themselves, water-taxi from the harbour).
PÓROS HARBOUR
Contents Places
150
Restaurants Karathanasis
Aráhova t226 70 31 360. Filling
Agora soups in the cooler months,
Behind Égina Town’s fish market on alongside draft wine and assorted
Panayioti Irioti 28, Égina t 229 70 27 meat dishes year round and roof-
308. Agora is particularly good terrace seating in summer.

for relatively inexpensive
seafood, and there’s outdoor Karavolos
seating on the cobbles in Póros t229 80 26 158. Eves only.
summer. Busy taverna serving karavólos
(snails) and other imaginative
Ta Alonia fare such as saganáki (small
At the junction for the Mount Parnassos skillet) dishes. It’s signposted
ski centre, Aráhova t226 70 32 644. from the western waterfront.
Popular haunt serving excellent
pittes and good, solid mountain Taverna Leonides
fare. Epidauros t275 20 22 115. A
friendly spot with a garden out
Andonis back; book ahead if your visit
Pérdhika, 9km from Égina Town, Égina coincides with a performance at
t 229 70 61 443. The most the ancient theatre. Actors eat
popular of the fish tavernas on here after shows – photos on
the harbour here. A little pricey, the wall testify to the patronage
but the high-quality dishes are of Melina Mercouri, the
still good value Papandreous, François
Mitterrand and Sir Peter Hall.
En Etei 1929
Cnr Khr. Smkrnis & Markopoúlou, Náfplio Mandraki
t275 20 29 007. A shade upmarket, Skala, Angístri. Moderately priced
but worth it.The cuisine is unfussy grills and home cooking.
European with Swiss overtones –
fondue is on the menu – and Moita
pasta is a good choice. Ídhra t229 80 52 020. Just inland
from the waterfront, Moita
Epikouros serves interesting seafood and
Pavlou & Fredirikis 33, Dhelfí t226 50 Mediterranean fusion dishes. For
83 250. One of the best eateries that special evening it’s worth
in Delphi, the wild boar stew is splashing out.
particularly good here – and the
view from the terrace is Mykinaiko
stunning. Mykínes, Mycenae t275 10 76 724.
One of the best in the village
Kakanarakis in terms of both quality and
Vasilíssis Ólgas 18, Náfplio t275 20 value, with excellent oven-
25 371. Eves only. Lively place cooked dishes and a robust
serving a variety of reasonably draft red wine known as
priced and dependably good “Blood of Hercules” to wash it
mezédhes, plus dishes such as down.
braised cockerel with noodles,
and kokkinistó (meat simmered O Naftis
in tomato sauce). Douzína 66, Póros t229 80 23 096.
Popular with the yachting set,
Naftis has a varied menu of
Contents Places
151
grills, fish and mezedes as well as dishes) and the fried calamari is
a relaxing location. also well done.
Oasis Vasilis
Póros t229 80 22 955. One of the Staïkopoúlou 20–24, Náfplio t 275 20

longer-established harbourside 25 334. In a street where most of
tavernas on Póros, the the establishments serve similar
moderately expensive Oasis has a menus, Vasilis stands out
regular and faithful clientele – a through the freshness of its
good indication of its ingredients.Very reasonably
commitment to quality cooking. priced, too.
Panagiota Vakchos
Aráhova t226 70 32 735. A Apollonos 31, Dhelfí t 226 50 83 250.
friendly, family-style taverna One of the better quality
high above Aráhova, with fine, establishments in a village not
good-value lamb dishes, home- particularly well known for
baked bread and rich chicken great eateries.The view from
soup. this family place is quite
stunning, and the food is good-
Taverna Parnassos quality traditional fare that’s
Metókhi, Angístri. It’s worth the walk reasonable value for your euros.
up the hill for the views and the
good food here. Dine on mayireftá Xeri Elia
and enjoy the relaxing view down Ídhra t229 80 52 886. A cosy and
towards Skála. relatively inexpensive fish
taverna in an old stone house
Platanos that puts an inventive twist on
Póros t229 80 24 249. High up filling mayireftá dishes.
overlooking Póros port from a
little square hosting a clutch of Yambeia
less obvious tavernas, Platanos Aráhova t226 70 32 730.
specializes in meat dishes, and Moderate-value bar-restaurant
you can dine in the shade of a on the main street of Aráhova,
large plane tree. operating as a café during the
morning.The dishes are Italian-
To Steki influenced dishes, and there’s a
Panayioti Irioti 34, Égina t 229 70 23 small wine list, attentive service
910. A small mezédhes place and pleasant ambience.
behind Égina Town’s fish
market, with inexpensive to Yeitoniko
moderate prices.The grilled Ídhra t229 80 53 615. This popular
octopus is particularly good. taverna, about 500m inland
from the port, has tables on its
I Taverna tou Stelara roof and a small veranda. Serves
Bouboulínas 73, Náfplio t275 20 28 great home cooking and the
818. A good spot for home- pasta and vegetarian dishes are
cooked ladherá (olive-oil-based excellent value.
Contents Places
152
Contents Places
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
Accommodation
155
Hotels
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
Prices for accommodation are sites; hotels here are also relatively
highly seasonal and in the lead- expensive, however, and may be
up to the Olympics well over noisy. Formerly gritty and sleazy
half the city’s hotels seemed to but rapidly being gentrified,
have been refurbished, raising Omónia’s bazaar area is the city
their rates accordingly.The prices at its most colourful, while nearby
quoted in this guide represent Thissío is rather smarter and
the hotel’s cheapest double room airier. For more night-time peace,
in high season; much of the year, and better value, though, there’s a
you’ll find rates are lower than lot to be said for heading for one
this. By law, every room has to of the quieter neighbourhoods a
display its official rates on the little further out. Koukáki and
back of the door: it is illegal for a Pangráti are attractive parts of
hotelier to charge more than the city, and though slightly out of
this, and you can normally the way – twenty minutes’ walk
expect to pay less. Most places from Sandagma or the heart of
have triple and even four-bed Pláka – compensate with excel-
rooms, which can be a significant lent neighbourhood tavernas and
saving for a family or group. cafés.Around Exárhia and Platía
Breakfast is included in the Viktorías, to the north of
price at the more expensive hotels Omónia, you are again out of the
and is almost always available at tourist mainstream, but benefit
extra cost if it’s not included; from good-value local restaurants
check what you’ll get, however, as and the proximity of cinemas,
the standard Greek hotel breakfast clubs and bars.
of a cup of weak coffee accompa-
nied by a piece of dry cake and Pláka
some jam is rarely worth paying Acropolis House Kódhrou 6 t210 32 22
for. Most of our recommendations 344, f210 32 44 143. Metro Slndagma.
will offer more than that – usually A very clean, well-sited 150-year-old man-
some form of bufffet. sion much favoured by students and aca-
The quarters of Pláka, demics, who return year after year.
Monastiráki and Sbndagma are Furnishings are eclectic and some rooms
atmospheric and within easy have private baths across the hall. Rates
walking distance of all the main include breakfast. e60.
Booking accommodation
Athens hotels can be packed in midsummer, especially August – yet for most of
the year there are enough beds in the city to go around, and to suit most wallets
and tastes. It makes sense to book in advance if possible, or to find a phone and
ring around on arrival, rather than walk the streets looking: almost every hotel and
hostel will have an English-speaking receptionist.
The best rates may well be offered on the Internet – type “Athens hotels” into
any search engine and you’ll come up with dozens of hotel search sites, often with
excellent-value special offers. If you do just set out and do the rounds, try to start
as early as possible in the day. Especially in the cheaper hotels, standards can
vary greatly between rooms, so try to see alternatives before you check in.
156
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Adonis Kódhrou 3 t210 32 49 737, Monastiráki and
f210 32 31 602. Metro Slndagma. A
modern, low-rise pension across the street Psyrrí
from Acropolis House, with some suites.

Achilleas Lékka 21 t210 32 33 197,
The rooftop café has a stunning view of the
wwww.achilleashotel.gr. Metro
Acropolis and central Athens; breakfast
Slndagma. Three-star hotel in a central
included. e60.
location on a relatively quiet street. All
Byron Vlronos 19 t210 32 53 554,
rooms have been renovated and have a/c
f210 32 20 276. Metro Akrópoli. Set on
and TV. Breakfast is served on the roof ter-
a quiet side street within walking distance of
race, weather permitting. e140.
the Acropolis and Pláka museums, the Byron
Athens Cypria Dhiomías 5 t210 32 38
is a fairly basic place, attractively renovated
034, f210 32 48 792. Metro Slndagma.
with a/c and TV in each room. A few upper
Standard, modern tourist hotel, but with all
rooms have impressive Acropolis views.
the luxuries – a/c, satellite TV, mini-bar, data
e80.
ports – and good value for what you get.
Kouros Kódhrou 11, Pláka t210 32 27
Very close to Sjndagma. The more expen-
431. Metro Slndagma. A slightly faded
sive rooms have Acropolis views. e100.
atmospheric pension, but with adequate
Hermes Apóllonos 19 t210 32 35 514,
facilities: shared baths and sinks in rooms.
einfohermes@accommodate.gr. Metro
Doubles are overpriced but singles are bet-
Slndagma. Conveniently located two-star
ter value. Some balconies overlook the
hotel, with comfortable, well-equipped,
pedestrianized street, the continuation of
newly decorated rooms, and a hearty buffet
Voulís. e60.
breakfast included in the rather inflated
Nefeli Iperídhou 16 t210 32 28 044,
price. e120.
f210 32 25 800. Metro Slndagma. The
John’s Place Patróöu 5 t210 32 29
entrance of this modern-looking hotel is
719. Metro Slndagma. In a peaceful
actually at Hatzimiháli 2. Comfortably
backstreet of Mitrópoleos, this basic hotel
faded rooms all come with TV and a/c,
has rather dark rooms and shared bath-
though the lower floors do suffer from
rooms. It’s clean and inexpensive however,
some noise at night and service can be
and there’s a cheap restaurant on the
mixed. Discount for stays of more than
ground floor. e40.
two days. e80.
Kimon Apóllonos 27 t & f210 33 14 658.
Phaedra Herefóndos 16, cnr Adhrianoú
Metro Slndagma. A simple place, but the
t210 32 27 795, f210 32 38 461.
recently upgraded rooms here are spotlessly
Metro Akrópoli. Simple, newly renovated
clean with TV and a/c. A few of the upper
place that’s one of the best deals in
rooms have stunning Acropolis views. e60.
Pláka. Quiet at night, thanks to its
Pella Inn Ermoú 104 t210 32 50 598,
location at the junction of two pedestrian
wwww.pella-inn.gr. Metro Thissío. One
streets, with polite, welcoming manage-
of the best deals in the area, this family-run
ment. The cheaper rooms share bath-
hotel has enthusiastic management and
rooms but all rooms have TV and
startling views of the Acropolis from the
a/c. e50.
third floor up. e95.
Student’s Inn Kydhathinéon 16 t210
Tempi Eólou 29 t210 32 13 175,
32 44 808, wwww.studenttravellersinn
etempihotel@travelling.gr. Metro
.com. Metro Akrópoli. This long-estab-
Monastiráki. A favourite with students and
lished travellers’ haunt is a mixture of hotel
budget travellers. The rooms are tiny, most
and hostel, recently renovated and painted.
have shared facilities, and hot water can be
All rooms have en-suite baths, and there
sparse. But the view of the flower market at
are some triples and quadruples, as well as
Ayía Iríni across the quiet pedestrian walk-
dorm beds. Not the quietest location, but
way is enchanting, and it’s within walking
nice otherwise, with a small courtyard and
distance of most central sights. There’s also
Internet facilities open to non-residents.
a book exchange, drinks, fridge, plus a
Dorms e22–25, rooms e60.
handy affiliated travel agency. e55.
159
Thisseus Hostel Thisséos 10 t210 32 Cecil Athinás 39 t210 32 17 079,
45 960. Metro Slndagma. You don’t get wwww.cecil.gr. Metro Monastiráki.
much more central than this – three blocks Loving restoration of a run-down pension
west of Sjndagma – nor much cheaper. No has re-created the charm of the 150-year-
frills, but clean enough, and with a kitchen old mansion; attractively decorated rooms
for guests’ use, and some three- and four- are larger than average and all have a/c.
bed dorms. e30. The location in the heart of the market dis-
trict, gracious management, roof garden
and hearty breakfast with Cretan jams and
Thissío, Gázi and Áno yogurt make this a delight. e95.
Petrálona Dorian Inn Pireós 15-17, Omónia t210
523 9782, wwww.greekhotel
Erechthion Flammaríou 8 t210 34 59
.com/athens/dorianinn. Metro Omónia.
606, f210 34 62 756. Metro Thissío. A
Very close to Platía Omonías and handy for
reasonable mid-range option in this lively
the Acropolis, this is a bustling hotel popular
area behind the Acropolis. All rooms have
with both business visitors and tourists. The
a/c and TV. E95.
rooftop garden boasts a pool and excellent
Thission Apostólou Pávlou 25 t210 34
views. e160.
67 634, f210 34 62 756. Metro Thissío.
Evropi Satovriándhou 7 t210 52 23
Somewhat better value than the nearby
081. Metro Omónia. Very basic old-
Erechthion, this friendly place has a/c and
fashioned hotel with spacious rooms, made
TV in all rooms, and fine views from the roof
even cooler by ceiling fans. Best-value sin-
terrace. e100.
gles in town and reasonably quiet, despite
being only a block from Platía Omonías.
Platía Omonías and e35.
Feron Férron 43, Platía Viktorías t210
around 82 32 083. Metro Viktorías. A small, sim-
Attalos Athinás 29 t210 32 12 801, ple hotel with cheerful staff and en-suite
wwww.attalos.gr. Metro Monastiráki. baths in all rooms. Very good value. e80.
Modern hotel with clean, comfortable Zinon Keramikoú 3 and Zínonos t210 52
rooms with a/c and TV, friendly manage- 45 711, wwww.bestwestern.com. Metro
ment and great Acropolis views from the Omónia. A comfortable, reasonably priced,
rooftop bar. e80. three-star Best Western hotel just off Platía
The Alassia Sokrátous 50, Omónia t210 Omonías. Good-sized rooms have been
52 74 000, wwww.the recently renovated, and come with satellite
alassia.com.gr. Metro Omónia. Renovated TV and a complimentary bottle of wine. e95.
in 2002, the Alassia is a pleasant find in
what is still a rather undeveloped accommo-
dation area. Its designer decor is apparent
Exárhia and Neápoli
as soon as you enter the lobby. Rooms are Exarchion Themistokléous 55, Platía
on the small side, but are elegant and well Exárhia t210 38 01 256, f210 38 03
sound-insulated. Good value for money. 296. Metro Omónia. Big 1960s high-rise
e120. hotel, with an excellent location right on the
Hostel Aphrodite Inárdhou 12, cnr square – though this means the rooms on
Mikhaïl Vódha 65 t210 88 39 249, the lower floors can be noisy. e100.
wwww.hostelaphrodite.com. Metro Museum Best Western Bouboulínas 16
Viktorías. Under the same management as t210 38 05 611, wwww.bestwestern
the Student’s Inn in Pláka, and a very simi- .com. Metro Omónia. Recently taken over
lar set-up. Friendly and clean, with a/c and by the Best Western group and upgraded to
hot water in shared bathrooms, safe, free its international standards, this nicely placed
baggage storage and Internet access. hotel is at the end of the green strip sepa-
Dorms e17, bed in two-bed dorm e23, rating the National Archeological Museum
rooms e40. and the Polytekhnío. e110.
160
Orion and Dryades Anexartisías 5 t210 at the Grande Bretagne, the grandest of all
36 27 362, eorion-dryades@mail.com. Athens’ hotels with the finest location in
Metro Omónia. Quiet, well-run twin hotels town. Recently refurbished, it really is mag-
across from the Lófos Stréfi park – a steep nificent, with every conceivable facility.
uphill walk. Reception is in the cheaper Treatments in the spa cost more than a
Orion, which has shared bathrooms, a night at most hotels – rooms are over e300
kitchen, and communal area on the roof even for an off-season special offer. e400.
with an amazing view of central Athens. All
rooms in the Dryades are en suite with a/c
and TV. e110.
Mets, Pangráti and
Koukáki
Kolonáki & Lykavitós Acropolis Select Falírou 37–39 t210 92
11 611, wwww.acropoliselect.gr. Metro
Hill Syngroú-Fix. An excellent, tastefully renovat-
St George Lycabettus Kleoménous 2, ed boutique hotel within ten minutes’ walk of
Kolonáki t210 729 0711, wwww the Acropolis. Pastel and earthy shades char-
.sglycabettus.gr. Metro Evangelismós. acterize the welcoming rooms, which have
One of the classic five-star hotels in Athens, individually controlled a/c, satellite TV and
the St George has one of the best locations, modem ports. e125.
high up on Lykavitos hill overlooking Acropolis View Webster 10, Koukáki
Sjndagma and the Acropolis. Tasetfully done t210 92 17 303, wwww.acropolisview
up in boutique-hotel style, there’s abundant .gr. Metro Akrópoli. A well-maintained
marble and leather in the public areas plus a small hotel on a quiet residential street
welcome rooftop pool. e145 for courtyard whose front rooms with balconies and roof
view, e220 looking out on the Acropolis. garden live up to its name. All rooms have
Stratos Vassilikos Michalakópoulou a/c, TV and fridge, an ample breakfast is
114, Ilísia t210 77 06 611, wwww included and the lobby sports a friendly bar.
.airotel.gr. Metro Mégaro Moussikís. e130.
Predominantly a business hotel, but very Art Gallery Erekhthíou 5, Koukáki t210
comfortable, newly renovated and with all 92 38 376, ecotes@otenet.gr. Metro
the facilities you’d expect, including TV and Syngroú-Fix. A mansion that was formerly
Internet in the rooms, marble bathrooms, the home of a member of the owner’s fami-
and even a tiny gym. Good metro and bus ly, this popular pension is named for the
connections from its location near the US original artworks on the walls. Rooms are
embassy. e170. plain, but the place is distinguished by
knowledgeable and helpful staff, a conven-
ient location just a short walk from the
Sondagma and metro, and a bountiful breakfast (at extra
cost) served on a sunny terrace with
around Acropolis view. e70.
Arethusa Mitropóleos 6–8 and Níkis 12 Athenian Callirhoe Kalliróis 32, cnr
t210 32 29 431, earethusa@ Petmeza t210 92 15 353, wwww.tac.gr.
travelling.gr. Metro Slndagma. This mod- Metro Syngroú-Fix. Situated between
ern, quiet hotel with a/c and TV in each Koukáki and the centre, the Callirhoe was
room caters to independent travellers and made over a couple of years back as an
small groups. The reception staff are helpful upmarket “designer” hotel. It’s already start-
and enthusiastic, and rates quite reasonable ing to look slightly faded, but is centrally
considering the excellent location. e120. located and has good facilities – including
Grande Bretagne Vasiléos Yioryíou 1, TV and Internet in the rooms and a small
Platía Slndagma t210 33 30 000, gym – making it popular with business and
wwww.grandebretagne.gr. If someone leisure travellers alike. Worth checking for
else is paying, try to get them to put you up offers. e180.
161
Marble House Cul-de-sac off A. Zínni complex occupies some 75 acres of a pri-
35A, Koukáki t210 92 34 058, vate pine-covered peninsula, 25km from
einfo@marblehouse.gr. Metro Syngroú- downtown. It has three hotels and villas, with
Fix. Easily the best value in Koukáki, with a pools, private beaches, water sports, tennis
very helpful management. It’s often full, so courts, a health club and no fewer than six
call ahead. Eight of the rooms have a/c (for restaurants. A shuttle bus runs twice daily to
extra charge); most rooms have a bath, and central Athens (in case the weather prevents
there are also two self-catering studios for you using the helipad) and there’s every
longer stays. e45. other conceivable facility including a major
Philippos Mitséon 3, Makryiánni t210 thalassotherapy spa. From e220.
922 36111, wwww.philipposhotel.gr. Delfini Leohárous 7, Pireás t210 41 73
Metro Akrópoli. A small yet comfortable 110, wwww.4peiraias.gr/delfini. See
modern hotel located conveniently on the map on p.127. If you have a late ferry
southeast side of the Acropolis. There’s a arrival or early departure and want a func-
large atrium for breakfast or afternoon cof- tional, convenient hotel, this is it. Tiny
fee. e195. rooms, but each is nicely done out with
Villa Olympia Karatzá 6, Koukáki t210 fridge and balcony; there are also some
92 37 650. Officially designated for long multi-bed rooms available. e50, but dis-
stays only, the rudimentary no-frills rooms counts if you show this book.
are often available to tourists on a daily Kefalari Suites Pendélis 1, Kifissiá
basis in this ramshackle old house, run by t210 62 33 333, wwww.kefalari
an Englishwoman. Basic, but by far the suites.gr. See map on p.126. A dozen
cheapest place in town. e20. extremely luxurious suites, each with its
own decorative theme and with every facili-
ty you might want. A very long way from the
Suburban Athens bustle of central Athens. e200–500.
Acropole Goúnari 7, Pireás t210 41 73 Mistral Vasiléos Pávlou 105, Kastella,
313, wwww.acropole-hotel.gr. See map Pireás t210 41 17 150, wwww
on p.127. Perhaps the pick of the hotels in .mistral.gr. See map on p.127. Upscale,
the Pireás port area, this newly renovated rather bland hotel, but undeniably comfort-
place has a variety of rooms including able and with fine sea views, looking out
triples; some with Jacuzzi. Breakfast room over Mikrolímano. Satellite TV, data ports
and bar downstairs. e60. and many other facilities in the rooms.
Astir Palace Vouliagmeni Apollónos 40, Much better value than similar quality
Vouliagméni t210 89 02 000, places in the centre. e110.
wwww.astir.gr. The Astir Palace resort
162
Hostels
Hostels and campsites ACCOMMODATION
There are only a couple of Between the train stations and Omónia, the
places in Athens that can strictly only official youth hostel in Athens is friend-
be described as hostels, and only ly, informative and, although a little frayed at
one of these is officially the edges, includes a café and left-luggage
store. Annual membership costs e15; if
recognized. Several of the
you’re not a member e2.50 per day is
cheaper hotels listed above,
added to the cost of a bed. Dorms e8.
however, offer beds in shared Youth Hostel #5 Damaréos 75, Pangráti,
rooms.We’ve specified where near the huge Profítis Ilías church t210
this is the case – they’re 75 19 530, ey-hostels@otenet.gr.
significantly more expensive A bit out of the way, but this private hostel
than these hostels, but generally behind a green door is located in a quiet
more centrally located. neighbourhood, is very friendly, and has no
YHA Victor Hugo 16 t210 52 34 170, curfew. Trolleys #2 and #11 pass nearby.
f210 52 34 015. Metro Metaxourghío. Dorms e9.
Campsites
The city’s campsites are out in Camping Nea Kifissia t210 80 75 579.
the suburbs and not especially Located in the cool, leafy suburb of Néa
cheap – they’re only really Kifissiá, with a very welcome swimming
worth using if you have a pool. Take bus #A7 from Platía Káningos or
camper van to park. Phone metro to Kifissiá and transfer onto bus
ahead in season to book space. #528 to the stop close to the campsite.
Várkiza Camping t210 89 73 614.
Athens Camping Leofóros Athinón
Beachfront location just off the main road,
198–200 t210 58 14 114.
some 20km south of the centre, with a
The closest campsite to the centre of
swimming pool, bar and restaurant. Bus
Athens, re-opened after a revamp.
#A3 or #E2 from Amalías to Glyfádha then
Facilities include a minimarket, snack-bar
#115 or #116 to Várkiza.
and plenty of hot water. Take the Elefsína
bus #A16 from Platía Eleftherias.
Essentials
Contents Essentials
Essentials
Contents Essentials
165
Arrival
A new airport and substantial investment coastal suburbs of Voúla and Glyfádha; the
ESSENTIALS
in transport links have transformed #E92 (roughly every 45min 9am–9pm,
arriving in Athens. The airport is linked to every 90min 10.30pm–8am) to the
the city by bus, metro and a fast northern suburb of Kifissiá; #E93 (roughly
expressway, while plenty of taxis and city every 35min 6am–midinght, hourly
buses service Pireás for those arriving by midnight–6am) to Kifisós intercity bus
boat. Even driving in is relatively station; and #E97 (every 45–50min
straightforward thanks to the new 6am–6pm, every 60min 7pm–5am) to
Arrival
expressways. Dháfni metro station. All these services
cost e2.90, and the ticket (an imerísio) is
By air valid on all Athens public transport for 24
Athens’ modernistic Eleftherios Venize- hours. They should be bought from a booth
los airport (wwww.aia.gr) lies some beside the stops, or, if this is closed, can be
26km east of the city. Facilities are excel- purchased on the bus: make sure you have
lent, with ample money-changing small change. You need to validate the
bureaux, two American Express offices ticket once on the airport bus, and again
and several ATMs. Luggage-storage facili- for your first trip on the metro or city bus.
ties are open round the clock, as are the When departing, it’s worth buying your
shops, newsstands, cafés, a food court ticket, available from any city metro station,
and fast-food restaurants. There’s also an 24 hours in advance, to have a day’s free
official EOT tourist office (daily use of the transport system as well as your
8am–10pm; t210 35 45 101). It’s worth journey to the airport.
calling in here to pick up their excellent Getting into Athens by taxi is also pretty
map, and up-to-date information on swift. You can get to the city centre via the
museum and site opening hours. Attikí Odhós Expressway and the Ymittós
Public transport from the airport is in a Ring Road in less than thirty minutes at
state of flux, so it’s worth picking up the slow traffic times and in under an hour at
latest leaflet on the situation, widely peak times. The Attikí Odhós Expressway
available at the airport. From summer also links the airport with a large swathe of
2004, metro line 3 should extend to northern Athens and runs right around the
Dhoukíssis Plakentías station, from where city as far as Elefsína. A taxi fare is rough-
metro trains will share the suburban rail ly e12–15 to central Athens or Pireás.
lines to the airport. With around four trains Before setting out in a taxi, make sure that
an hour, this should be the most the meter is switched on to the correct
convenient way into the centre. rate (see taxis, p.167), but note that there
Alternatively, express bus #E95 (approx are numerous legitimate extras for airport
every 20min midnight–7am, every 30min journeys, luggage etc.
7am–7pm, every 15min 7pm–midnight;
70min) runs to Sjndagma Square in the By ferry
centre of town via Ethnikí Ámyna metro The simplest way to get to Athens from
station; #E94 (every 10min 7am–7pm, Pireás is by metro. Trains run from 6am
less frequently till midnight) goes to Ethnikí to midnight. For the airport, take express
Ámyna only. The journey is quicker if you bus #E96 (every 20min 7am–9pm, every
change to the metro at Ethnikí Ámyna, but 40min 9pm–7am). Taxis between Pireás
this is not easy if you’ve got a lot of and central Athens should cost around
luggage. Again, bus routes may change as e8, including baggage: getting a taxi
a result of the extension of the metro. when a ferry arrives is no easy matter,
Others are #E96 (every 20min 7am–9pm, though – you’ll need to be pushy, and
every 40min 9pm–7am) to Pireás via the almost certainly have to share.
Contents Essentials
166
City transport
Athens is served by slow but wide- The metro
Arrival ESSENTIALS
ranging buses, a curiously anachronistic

The Athens metro (w www.ametro.gr) has
but effective trolley bus network and a
been much expanded in recent years,
fast metro system which is currently
undergoing massive expansion; taxis fill in with the long-awaited addition of two
the gaps. As well as the metro/rail link to completely new lines and a couple of
the airport, there are two new tram lines: new stops added to the original Line 1.
one following the line of Leofóros Syngroú The system is a huge success: designed
from the centre to Fáliro on the coast near to handle almost half a million passen-
Pireás; the other running from Fáliro gers a day, it is fast, quiet and
through the seaside suburbs to Glyfádha. user-friendly. The stations are often
Public transport networks operate from attractions in their own right – displaying
around 5am to midnight, with only the air- artefacts discovered in their excavation
port buses running in the small hours. You and other items of local interest.
need to buy a ticket from a street kiosk or Further extensions to lines 2 and 3 are
metro station before you travel. underway, and likely to open in stages
A good website to start your planning is over the next few years. Meanwhile, Line
wwww.oasa.gr/uk/index_gr.asp, an 1 (green) runs from Pireás in the south to
English version of the official Greek Athens Kifissiá in the north; useful stops in the
Urban Transport Organisation website. centre include Thissío, Monastiráki,
Tickets and passes

Athens’ public transport is good value, especially with judicious use of the various
passes available. While most of the major sites are within walking distance of each
other, the expansion of the metro means that it often makes more sense to jump on
a train to go from, say, Omónia to Skndagma, than sweating it out on the streets. If
you can figure out the bus and trolley system, it’s even cheaper to use them instead.
The easiest and, for most visitors, best-value ticket is the 24-hour imerísio. This
costs E2.90 and can be used on all buses, trolleybuses and the metro, as well as
for a single trip to the airport. You validate it once, on starting your first journey, and
it is valid for 24 hours from then – cancel it again if you take the airport bus. The
ticket can be bought from any metro ticket office and many places where bus tick-
ets are sold (see below) – you can buy several at once and then cancel them as
necessary. There’s also a monthly pass for e35, or E17.50 for buses only.
Otherwise, individual metro tickets cost e0.60 on Line 1 for journeys within two
of its three zones (this will get you from the centre to either end of the line), e0.70
for any other journey (valid for ninety minutes from validation, for travel in one
direction – ie you can change lines, but you can’t go somewhere and come back).
They’re available from machines and ticket offices in any metro station, and must
be validated before you start your journey, in the machines at the top of the stairs.
Bus tickets cost e0.45 and must be bought in advance from kiosks, certain
shops and newsagents, or from the limited number of booths run by bus personnel
near major stops – look for the brown, red and white logo proclaiming Isitíria edhó
(tickets here). They’re sold individually or in bundles of ten, and must be cancelled
in a special machine when boarding. Cancelled tickets apply only to a particular
journey and vehicle; there are no transfers.
On both bus and metro, fare-dodgers risk an on-the-spot fine equivalent to forty
times the current fare.
Contents Essentials
167
Omónia and Viktorías. Line 2 (red) runs Taxis
from Sepólia to Dháfni, with central stops
at Omónia, Sjndagma and Akrópoli at the Athenian taxis have a rather dodgy repu-
foot of the Acropolis. Line 3 (blue) tation – due more to the cavalier attitude
extends from Monastiráki northeast to of the drivers than to the cars them-
selves. Drivers are notoriously capricious
ESSENTIALS
Ethnikí Ámyna and to Dhoukíssis
Plakentías, with trains continuing from and will often take you only where they
there via new suburban rail lines to the want to go rather than to your exact des-
airport. tination – justifiable to a point in a city
where getting from A to B can take up to
a couple of hours, but not helpful for for-
Buses and trolleys eign visitors. Few drivers speak English,
City Transport
Athens’ bus network, serving hundreds many still smoke in the cab despite an
of routes from the centre out into the official ban, and an unscrupulous minori-
straggling suburbs and beyond, has also ty will rip you off mercilessly. Prior to the
benefitted from much-needed investment 2004 Olympics, all Athenian taxi drivers
over recent years and the city now boasts were supposed to have attended “charm
a fleet of modern, comfortable buses, school” for re-education, but few locals
including a growing number of “green” expected to notice much change.
vehicles running off natural gas. There’s That said, Athens’ cabs are still among
also a substantial trolley bus network, the cheapest of any European capital –
long since disappeared from the streets fares around the city centre rarely run
of most cities in Europe. The original above e3, with a journey to the airport
Russian-made trolley buses of yesteryear only e12–15 and Pireás e6–8 from the
have almost all been replaced by modern centre. The exact amount is determined
and more comfortable air-conditioned by the pickup point and the amount of
versions. Using electricity as their primary luggage, with a minimum fare of e1.50.
source of power, they’re also equipped All officially licensed cabs are yellow, with
with diesel engines to manoeuvre around a special black-on-yellow number plate
traffic problems. beginning with the letter “T” (some older
The bad news is that the system is red-on-white plates are also still in circu-
pretty confusing – it’s not always obvious lation). You can wave them down on the
which bus to take or where to catch it – street, pick them up from ranks at the
and that buses can be very crowded at train stations, airport or the National Gar-
peak times (7–8.30am & 1.30–3pm), dens on the corner of Sjndagma, or get
unbearably hot in summer traffic jams, your hotel to phone one for you (adding a
and chronically plagued by strikes and e1.50 surcharge to the fare). They are
slow-downs; walking is often a better most elusive during rush hours, or when
option, particularly in the city centre. it rains.
Among the handiest of the trolley bus Make sure the meter is switched on
routes are the #1, which connects the when you get in, with its display visible
Larísis train station with Omónia, Sjndag- and properly zeroed. There are no fixed-
ma and Koukáki; and #2–#5 and #12, price rides in and around Athens – use of
which all link Sjndagma with Omónia the meter is compulsory, so if it’s “not
and the National Archeological Museum working”, find another taxi.
on Patisíon. Where other buses are con- Attempts at overcharging tourists are
venient, we’ve detailed them in the text, particularly common with small-hours
and most bus stops now show the routes arrivals at the airport and Pireás. A threat
of the main services using them. Check to have hotel staff or the tourist police
the “Going Places” section of adjudicate usually elicits co-operation, as
w www.oasa.gr/uk/index_gr.asp for they will very likely take your side and the
details of all transport options to just police have the power to revoke a driver’s
about anywhere in Athens. operating permit. In case of a dispute,
Contents Essentials
168
make an obvious written note of the vehi- seem to extend for a week or two either
cle’s number plate details. side of the actual date.
Every taxi must have a dash-mounted To help make ends meet on govern-
plastic placard listing regular rates and ment-regulated fare limits, taxi-drivers
extra charges in English and Greek. often pick up extra passengers along the
City Transport ESSENTIALS
Legitimate surcharges can considerably way. There is no fare-sharing: each pas-

bump up the final bill from the total senger or group of passengers pays the full
shown on the meter. These include extra fare for their journey. So if you’re picked up
charges for journeys to or from the air- by an already-occupied taxi, memorize the
port and train or ferry terminals, and for meter reading at once; you’ll pay from that
each piece of luggage over 10kg; the point on, plus the e0.80 minimum. When
rate per kilometre almost doubles hailing an occupied taxi, shout out your
between midnight and 5am, and there destination so the driver can decide
are Easter and Christmas bonuses, which whether he wants your custom or not.
Information
The Greek National Tourist Office sleep, as well as the city streets – or the
(GNTO; Ellinikós Organismós Tourismoú city maps produced by Emvelia
or EOT in Greek; w www.gnto.gr) has a (w www.emvelia.gr) or Falkplan. These
brand new central information office at and others should be available from good
Amalías 26, just off Sjndagma (t 210 local bookshops and some kiosks: the
33 10 392). This is a useful first stop for best source is the top floor of the Elefth-
information, and they have a good free eroudakis bookshop at Panepistimíou 17,
map as well as information sheets on between Sjndagma and Omónia.
current opening hours, bus and ferry Useful sources of information for
schedules, and so on. There’s also Inter- what’s on include the English-language
net access. If you are arriving by plane, daily Athens News, whose Friday edition
you could also call in at the airport has a complete events programme for
branch (see p.165). the weekend. Much more extensive list-
Useful maps to complement those in ings, but in Greek only, can be found in
this guide include the Rough Guide City Athinorama or Time Out Athens, both of
Map of Athens ( w www.roughguides which have screening times for all films
.com) – full-colour, non-tearable, weath- and exhaustive catalogues of nightspots,
erproof and pocket-sized, detailing restaurant, music and events. They’re
attractions, places to shop, eat, drink and published weekly on Thursdays.
Directory
AIRLINES Aegean, Vouliagménis 572 t 210 33 11 668, reservations t 800
t 210 99 88 300, reservations t 801 44 129 506; EasyJet, airport only t 210
11 20 000, airport t 210 35 30 101; 35 30 300; Hellas Jet, Michalakópoulou
British Airways, Themistokléous 1, 91, Ilísia t 210 74 57 700, reservations
Glyfádha t 210 89 06 666, airport t 801 11 53 000, airport t 210 35 30
t 210 32 30 453; Delta, Óthonos 4 815-9; Olympic, Fillelínon 15 t 210 92
Contents Essentials
169
67 663, reservations t 210 96 66 666, can directors. Films are always shown in
airport 210 93 68 424; Singapore Air- the original language with Greek subti-
lines, Xenofóndos 9 t 210 37 28 000; tles, and admission is E6–8. Downtown
Thai, Venizélou 32, Glyfádha t 210 96 indoor cinemas are concentrated on the
92 010. three main thoroughfares connecting
ESSENTIALS
AIRPORT ENQUIRIES t 210 35 31 000 Omónia and Sjndagma; and in
for airline offices at the airport, t 210 35 Ambelókipi, around the junctions of
30 000 for flight schedules. Leofóros Alexándhras and Kifissías. Cen-
AMERICAN EXPRESS Poste restante and tral and reliable outdoor venues include
money changing at the main branch at Cine Paris, on the roof at Kydathinéon
Ermoú 2 (1st floor), on the corner of 22, Pláka; Apostólou Pávlou 7, Thissío;
Sjndagma Square. Two offices at the air- Panathinea, Mavromiháli 165, Neápoli;
Information
port are open 24hr. Zefyros, Tróön 36, Thissío (good for film
BANKS AND EXCHANGE Most banks noir and Fifties oldies); Vox on the platía
have 24hr ATMs that accept debit cards. and Riviera at Valtetsíou 46, both in
Banking hours are typically Mon–Thurs Exárhia.
8.30am–2.30pm and Fri 8.30am–2pm. CLASSICAL MUSIC The summer-long
Exchange bureaux are open during regu- Hellenic Festival hosts many of Athens’
lar business hours throughout the city finest classical performances, and the
and are far quicker than banks – but city’s concert hall – the Mégaro Mousikís
check the commission and exchange on Vassilísis Sofías in Ilísia by the metro
rate. Most hotels will also exchange cur- station that bears its name – also has a
rency, though usually at a poor rate, and full season running throughout the winter
getting cash on a credit card is very months.
expensive. DANCE The one outstanding dance event
BEACHES Almost all the good beaches in worth catching is the Dora Stratou Ethnic
and around Athens demand payment for Dance Company performing in their own
entry, for which you’ll get a clean beach, a theatre at Arakínthou and Voutié on
lounger, somewhere to buy food and Filopáppou Hill (t 210 92 14 650). Per-
drink, and facilities including beach volley- formances (late May to late Sept
ball and all sorts of watersports. Some of Tues–Sat 9.30pm, Sun 8.15pm; E13)
the fanciest charge E10 per person at combine traditional music, fine choreog-
weekends; more basic places charge raphy and gorgeous costumes. To reach
E3–5. There are plenty of spots to swim the theatre, walk along the south flank of
for free, but this may mean from the the Acropolis until you see the signs.
rocks, or involve a long hike from the Tickets can almost always be picked up
road. On summer weekends, every beach at the door.
– and the roads to them – will be packed. DISABLED TRAVELLERS Hotels through-
CAR RENTAL Most car rental companies out Athens were refurbished in the
have offices near the top of Leofóros run-up to the Olympics, and many have
Syngroú, including Antena at no.52 accessible rooms and other facilities.
(t 210 92 32 544); Budget (no.8, t 210 However, the infrastructure of the city is
92 14 771); EuropCar (no.43, t 210 95 tricky for people in wheelchairs or with
88 990; Hertz (no.12, t 210 92 20 102); limited mobility. Pavements are rarely
Holiday Autos (no.8, t 210 22 23 088); smooth, there are many steep streets,
Thrifty (no.25, t 210 92 46 001); Sixt and the ground at most archeological
(no.23, t 210 92 20 121); and Status sites is extremely uneven. The new metro
(no.40, t 210 92 24 345). has excellent lifts from pavement level
CINEMA Athens has dozens of indoor direct to the platforms, but often a large
cinemas, and in summer many outdoor gap between the platform and the train.
screens showing second-run offerings, EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Australia,
classics and cult films, while festivals Dhimitríou Soútsou 37 t 210 64 50 405;
feature prominent European and Ameri- Canada, Ioánnou Yennadhíou 4 t 210 72
Contents Essentials
170
73 400; Ireland, Vasiléos Konstandínou 7 INTERNET There are plenty of Internet
t 210 72 32 771; New Zealand (con- Cafés throughout central Athens, mostly
sulate), Xenías 24, Ambelókipi t 210 77 charging around e2–4 per hour. They
10 112; UK, Ploútarhou 1, Kolonáki generally have fast connections and mod-
t 210 72 72 600; US, Vasilíssis Sofías ern machines, but are often smoky. Some
Directory ESSENTIALS
91 t 210 72 12 951. of the more central and reliable are: Easy

EMERGENCIES Ambulance t 166; Fire Internet Café, west side of Platía Sjndag-
t 199; Police t 100; Tourist police ma above Everest; Internet World,
t 171. Pandhróssou 29, Pláka; QuickNet, Glad-
FERRIES Almost any travel agent in stónos 4, Omónia; Sky Net, Voulís 30,
Athens can sell you a ferry ticket, but they Sjndagma; C@fé 4U, Ippokrátous 44,
don’t necessarily represent all companies, Exarhía; British Council, Platía Kolonáki
so be sure you’re not taking a roundabout (free access during library hours, Mon–Fri
route. In Pireás, there’s far more choice: 10am–7pm, Sat 10.30am–2pm).
unless you want a cabin, there’s rarely MAIL Post office hours are typically
any need to book ahead. Mon–Fri 7.30am–2pm; some main
FESTIVALS The great event of the Greek branches open evenings and Sat morn-
cultural year is the Hellenic Festival, which ings. The busy main office on Sjndagma
runs from June to September every year. It Square has long queues – it’s worth
encompasses a broad spectrum of cultural heading to the quieter branch nearby at
events, most famously ancient Greek the- Níkis 37. Overseas rates start at e0.65
atre (performed, in modern Greek, at the for a postcard sent anywhere in the world
Herodes Atticus Theatre on the south – you can usually buy a stamp ( gram-
slope of the Acropolis), but also traditional matósimo) from the vendor of the card.
and contemporary dance, classical music, MARKETS Many Athenian neighbour-
jazz, traditional Greek music and even hoods have a weekly laïkí agorá – street
rock. Other festival venues include the market – usually running from 7am to
open-air Lykavitós Theatre on Lykavitós 2pm. The most centrally located (listed by
Hill, the mansion of the Duchess of Plai- street name and area) are: Hánsen in
sance in Pendéli and the ancient theatre at Patissíon (Mon); Lésvou in Kypséli and
Epidauros (see p.144). Programmes of Láskou in Pangráti (both Tues); Xenokrá-
performances and tickets are best picked tous in Kolonáki, Dragoúmi in Ilísia, Tsámi
up as soon as you arrive in the city, or Karatássou in Koukáki and Arhimídhous in
even booked before you arrive. The festi- Mets (all Fri); and Plakendías in
val box office is in the arcade at 39 Ambelókipi (one of the largest) and
Panepistimíou (Mon–Fri 8.30am–4pm, Kallidhromíou in Exárhia, both on Satur-
Sat 9am–2.30pm; t 210 32 21 459, day.
wwww.hellenicfestival.gr). You can also MONEY Standard currency in Greece is
buy tickets at the Herodes Atticus box the euro, divided into 100 leptá (cents).
office (daily 9am–2pm & 6–9pm; t210 You may still see prices quoted in dhrach-
32 32 771) or at Epidauros. mas (the old currency) and many till
FOOTBALL The three major Athens teams receipts continue to show the value in
– Panathinaïkós, AEK and Olympiakós – both, but the old notes and coins are no
dominate Greek football. Panathinaïkós longer valid. The major credit cards are
are the most central, at Leofóros accepted virtually everywhere, though
Alexándhras in Ambelókipi (right beside perhaps with reluctance at the cheaper
the metro station). AEK play at the Níkos tavernas and bars.
Goumás stadium in Néa Filadhélfia (metro OPENING HOURS Traditionally shops and
to Perissós station, from where it’s less offices open from 8.30 or 9am until 1.30
than ten minutes’ walk). Olympiakós’ or 2.30pm, when there is a long break for
home is the Karaïskáki stadium in Néo the hottest part of the day. Most places,
Fáliro (right opposite the metro), newly except banks and government offices,
refurbished for the Olympics. then reopen in the late afternoon, from
Contents Essentials
171
about 5.30 to 8.30pm; they’re closed on you’ll need to know the access code for
Sundays, and often on Saturday, Monday Greece. For the domestic operator, call
and Wednesday afternoons. However, t 132; for the international operator, call
increasing numbers of places, especially t 139. Mobile phones are ubiquitous in
in the city centre and above all the tourist Athens, and if you have an international
ESSENTIALS
shops in Pláka, now remain open roaming facility, you should have no prob-
throughout the day. Hours can also vary lem using yours while here.
between summer and winter (usually THEATRE The contemporary Greek the-
Oct–March & April–Sept). atre scene is unlikely to be accessible
PHARMACIES The Marinópoulos branch- unless your Greek is fluent. As with Greek
es on Patisíon and Panepistimíou are music, it is essentially a winter pursuit; in
particularly good and also sell homeo- summer, the only productions tend to be
Directory
pathic remedies. Bakákos, on Platía satirical and (to outsiders) totally incom-
Omonías is the largest general pharmacy prehensible revues. However, well worth
in Athens and stocks just about every- catching is the Classical drama staged
thing. All pharmacies display a daily list of (June–Aug Fri & Sat nights) at the spec-
those open after-hours. tacular ancient theatre in Epidauros (see
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Official holidays are: p.144). For big productions you’re best
January 1; January 6; March 25; the first getting your tickets in advance as seats
Monday of Lent (variable Feb/March); can sell out quickly.
Easter weekend (variable March/April); TIME Greek summer time begins at 2am
May 1; Pentecost or Whit Monday (fifty on the last Sunday in March, when the
days after Easter); August 15; October clocks go forward one hour, and ends at
28; December 25 and 26. Many Atheni- 2am the last Sunday in October when
ans take their holidays at Easter and they go back. Greek time is thus always
during August, when some shops and two hours ahead of Britain. For North
restaurants will be closed. America, the difference is seven hours for
SKIING A day-trip to ski from Athens is Eastern Standard Time, ten hours for
easily arranged in winter: the main centre Pacific Standard Time, with an extra hour
at Mount Parnassós (p.143) is accessible plus or minus for those few weeks in
either by car or on an organized tour. To April when one place is on daylight
avoid the hordes, go during the week. saving and the other isn’t.
SMOKING Greeks smoke heavily, often in TOURS Most travel agencies offer a vari-
crowded public places such as cafés, ety of tours out of Athens, as well as
restaurants and bars. Public transport is day- or half-day tours of the city. The lat-
non-smoking, as are many offices, but only ter normally include a bus drive around
a small minority of places to eat or drink the highlights and a guided tour of the
will have effective non-smoking areas. Acropolis and its museum for around
TELEPHONES Phonecards (tilekárta) for e30. You could also take the “Happy
public phones are available from kiosks Train” ride, which sets out from the Platía
and small shops, starting at e3. For Paliás Agorás (on Eólou, just off Adhri-
international calls, though, an internation- anoú) and clatters past most of the
al calling card (such as AT&T) is usually major sites for an hour or so (e5, chil-
better value: if you already have one, dren e3).
Contents Essentials
172
Contents Essentials
Language
Contents Language
Language
Contents Language
175
Basics
LANGUAGE Basics
You can get by in Athens speaking only English – in the tourist areas
certainly there’ll always be someone who can speak it fluently. Away
from the centre you may struggle occasionally, but even here an
English-speaker is rarely far away. However, the effort of mastering a
few Greek words is well repaid, and will transform your status from that
of dumb tourístas to the more honourable one of xénos/xéni, a word
which can mean foreigner, traveller and guest all rolled into one.
The Rough Guide Greek Dictionary Phrasebook is full of more phras-
es that you’ll need. It also fills you in on cultural know-how and is sen-
sibly transliterated.
Pronunciation
On top of the usual difficulties of learning a new language, Greek
presents the additional problem of an entirely separate alphabet.
Despite initial appearances, this is in practice fairly easily mastered
and is a skill that will help enormously if you are going to get around
independently. In addition, certain combinations of letters have
unexpected results. Remember that the correct stress (marked with
an accent) is crucial.With the right sounds but the wrong stress peo-
ple will either fail to understand you, or else understand something
quite different from what you intended – there are numerous pairs
of words with the same spelling and phonemes, distinguished only
by their stress.
Set out below is the Greek alphabet, the system of transliteration
used in this book, and a brief aid to pronunciation.
Greek Transliteration Pronounced

Α, α a a as in father
Β, β v v as in vet
Γ, γ y/g y as in yes except before consonants or a,
o or ou when it’s a breathy g, approximately
as in gap
∆, δ dh th as in then
Ε, ε e e as in get
Ζ, ζ z z sound
Η, η i i as in ski
Θ, θ th th as in theme
Ι, ι i i as in ski
Κ, κ k k sound
Λ, λ l l sound
Μ, µ m m sound
Ν, ν n n sound
Ξ, ξ x x sound
Ο, ο o o as in toad
Contents Language
176
Π, π p p sound
Ρ, ρ r r sound
Σ, σ, ς s s sound, except z before m or g; single sigma
has the same phonic value as double sigma
Τ, τ
Basics LANGUAGE
t t sound
Υ, υ y y as in barely
Φ, φ f f sound
Χ, χ h before vowels, harsh h sound, like ch in loch
kh before consonants
Ψ, ψ ps ps as in lips
Ω, ω o o as in toad, indistinguishable from ο
Combinations and diphthongs

ΑΙ, αι e e as in hey
ΑΥ, αυ av/af av or af depending on following consonant
ΕΙ, ει i long i, exactly ι or η
ΕΥ, ευ ev/ef ev or ef, depending on following consonant
ΟΙ, οι i long i, exactly like ι or η
ΟΥ, ου ou ou as in tourist
ΓΓ, γγ ng ng as in angle; always medial
ΓΚ, γκ g/ng g as in goat at the beginning of a word, ng in
the middle
ΜΠ, µπ b/mb b at the beginning of a word, mb in the
middle
ΝΤ, ντ d/nd d at the beginning of a word, nd in the middle
ΤΣ, τσ ts ts as in hits
ΤΖ, τζ tz dg as in judge, j as in jam in some dialects
Words and phrases

Basics
Yes Né Day Méra

Certainly Málista Night Níkhta
No Óhi In the morning Tó proï
Please Parakaló In the afternoon Tó apóyevma
OK, agreed Endáxi In the evening Tó vrádhi
Thank you Efharistó Here Edhó
(very much) (polk) There Ekí
I (don’t) understand (Dhén) This one Aftó
Katalavéno That one Ekíno
Excuse me Parakaló, mípos Good Kaló
Do you speak Miláte angliká? Bad Kakó
English? Big Megálo
Sorry, excuse me Signómi Small Mikró
Today Símera More Perisótero
Tomorrow Ávrio Less Ligótero
Yesterday Khthés A little Lígo
Now Tóra A lot Polk
Later Argótera Cheap Ftinó
Open Anikhtó Expensive Akrivó
Closed Klistó Hot Zestó
Contents Language
177
Cold Krko Pharmacy Farmakío
With (together) Mazí (mé) Post office Tahydhromío
Without Horís Stamps Gramatósima
Quickly Grígora Petrol station Venzinádhiko
LANGUAGE Basics
Slowly Sigá Bank Trápeza
Mr/Mrs Kkrios/Kyría Money Leftá/khrímata
Miss Dhespinís Toilet Toualéta
To eat/drink Trógo/píno Police Astynomía
Bakery Foúrnos, Doctor Yiatrós
psomádhiko Hospital Nosokomío
Requests
To ask a question, it’s simplest to start with parakaló, then name the
thing you want in an interrogative tone.
Where is the Parakaló, o How much? Póso?
bakery? foúrnos? When? Póte?
Can you show me Parakaló, ó dhrómos Why? Yiatí?
the road to . . . ? yiá . . . ? At what Tí óra . . . ?
We’d like a Parakaló, éna time . . . ?
room for two dhomátio yiá dhko What is/ Tí íne/Pió íne . . . ?
átoma Which is . . . ?
May I have a kilo Parakaló, éna kiló How much Póso káni?
of oranges? portokália? does it cost?
Where? Poú? What time does Tí óra aníyi?
How? Pós? it open?
How many? Póssi, pósses or What time does Tí óra klíni?
póssa? it close?
Conversation
By far the most common greeting, on meeting and parting, is yiá
sou/yiá sas – literally “health to you”. Incidentally, the approaching
party utters the first greeting, not those seated at sidewalk kafenío
tables or doorsteps.
Hello Hérete Speak slower, Parakaló, miláte pió
Good morning Kalí méra please sigá
Good evening Kalí spéra How do you Pós léyete stá
Good night Kalí níkhta say it in Greek? Elliniká?
Goodbye Adío I don’t know Dhén xéro
How are you? Tí kánis/Tí kánete? See you tomorrow Thá sé dhó ávrio
I’m fine Kalá íme See you soon Kalí andhámosi
And you? Ké essís? Let’s go Páme
What’s your Pós se léne? Please help me Parakaló, ná mé
name? voithíste
My name is . . . Mé léne . . .
Contents Language
178
Greek’s Greek
There are numerous words and phrases which you will hear
constantly, even if you rarely have the chance to use them.These
Basics LANGUAGE
are a few of the most common.

Éla! Come (literally) but also Ópa! Whoops! Watch it!
“Speak to me!”, “You Po-po-po! Expression of dismay or
don’t say!”, and so on. concern, like French
Oríste! Literally, “Indicate!”; in “O là là!”.
effect, “What can I do for Pedhí moú My boy/girl, sonny, friend
you?” etc.
Embrós! Standard phone responses. Maláka(s) Literally “wanker”, but
or Léyete! often used (don’t try it!) as
Tí néa? What’s new? an informal term of address.
Tí yínete? What’s going on (here)? Sigá sigá Take your time, slow down.
Étsi k’étsi So-so. Kaló taxídhi Bon voyage.
Accommodation
Hotel Xenodhohío Hot water Zestó neró
Inn Xenón(as) Cold water Krdo neró
Youth hostel Xenónas neótitos Air conditioning Klimatismós
A room . . . Éna dhomátio . . . Fan Anamistíra
for one/two/ yiá éna/dhjo/tría Can I see it? Boró ná tó dhó?
three people átoma Can we camp Boroúme na váloume
for one/two/ yiá mía/dhjo/trís here? ti skiní edhó?
three nights vradhiés Campsite Kámping/Kataskínosi
with a double mé megálo kreváti Tent Skiní
with a shower mé doús
Travel
Aeroplane Aeropláno How many Póssa hiliómetra?
Bus, coach Leoforío, púlman kilometres?
Car Aftokínito, amáxi How many Pósses óres?
Motorbike, Mihanáki, papáki hours?
scooter Where are you Poú pás?
Taxi Taxí going?
Ship Plío/vapóri/karávi I’m going to . . .
Páo stó . . .
High-speed Tahkplio I want to get Thélo ná katévo
catamaran off at . . . stó . . .
Hydrofoil Dhelfíni The road to . . .O dhrómos yiá . . .
Train Tréno Near Kondá
Train station Sidhirodhromikós Far Makriá
stathmós Left Aristerá
Bicycle Podhílato Right Dhexiá
Hitching Otostóp Straight ahead Katefthía, ísia
On foot Mé tá pódhia A ticket to . . .Éna isitírio yiá . . .
Trail Monopáti A return ticket Éna isitírio mé
Bus station Praktorío leoforíon, KTEL epistrofí
Bus stop Stássi Beach Paralía
Harbour Limáni Cave Spiliá
What time does Ti óra févyi? Centre (of town) Kéndro
it leave? Church Eklissía
What time does Ti óra ftháni? Sea Thálassa
it arrive? Village Horió
Contents Language
179
Numbers
1 énas/éna/mía 30 triánda
2 dhko 40 saránda
LANGUAGE Basics
3 trís/tría 50 penínda
4 tésseres/téssera 60 exínda
5 pénde 70 evdhomínda
6 éxi 80 ogdhónda
7 eftá 90 enenínda
8 okhtó 100 ekató
9 ennéa (or more 150 ekatón penínda
slangy, enyá) 200 dhiakóssies/
10 dhéka dhiakóssia
11 éndheka 500 pendakóssies/
12 dhódheka pendakóssia
13 dhekatrís 1000 hílies/hília
14 dhekatésseres 2000 dhko hiliádhes
20 íkossi 1,000,000 éna ekatomírio
21 íkossi éna (all first próto
compounds written second dhéftero
separately thus) third tríto
Days of the week and the time
Sunday Kyriakí Twenty minutes Tésseres pará íkossi

Monday Dheftéra to four
Tuesday Tríti Five minutes Eftá ké pénde
Wednesday Tetárti past seven
Thursday Pémpti Half past eleven Éndheka ké misí
Friday Paraskeví In half an hour Sé misí óra
Saturday Sávato In a quarter- S’éna tétarto
What time is it? Tí óra íne? hour
One/two/ Mía íy óra/dhko iy In two hours Sé dhko óres
three o’clock óra/trís íy óra
Months and seasons

Note that you may see hybrid forms of the months written on
schedules or street signs; the below are the spoken demotic forms.
January Yennáris September Septémvris
February Fleváris October Októvrios
March Mártis November Noémvris
April Aprílis December Dhekémvris
May Maïos Summer Therinó dhromolóyio
June Ioúnios schedule
July Ioúlios Winter Himerinó dhromolóyio
August Ávgoustos schedule
Contents Language
180
Menu reader
Menu reader LANGUAGE
Basics
Aláti Salt Neró Water
Avgá Eggs Psári(a) Fish
(Horís) ládhi (Without) Oil Psomí Bread
Hortofágos Vegetarian Olikís Wholemeal bread
Katálogo, lísta Menu Sikalísio Rye bread
Kréas Meat Thalassiná Seafood
Lahaniká Vegetables Tyrí Cheese
O logariasmós The bill Yiaoúrti Yogurt
Méli Honey Záhari Sugar
Cooking terms
Akhnistó Steamed Sti soúvla Spit-roasted
Makaronádha Any pasta-based dish Stó foúrno Baked
Pastó Marinated in salt Tiganitó Pan-fried
Psitó Roasted Tís óras Grilled/fried to order
Saganáki Cheese-based red Yakhní Stewed in oil and
sauce; or any fried tomato sauce
cheese Yemistá Stuffed (squid,
Skáras Grilled vegetables, and so on)
Soups and starters

Avgolémono Egg and lemon soup Mavromátika Black-eyed peas
Dolmádhes Stuffed vine leaves Melitzanosaláta Aubergine/eggplant dip
Fasoládha Bean soup Revytho- Chickpea (garbanzo)
Fáva Purée of yellow peas, keftédhes patties
served with onion Skordhaliá Garlic dip
and lemon Soúpa Soup
Florínes Canned red sweet Taramosaláta Cod roe paté
Macedonian peppers Trahanádhes Crushed wheat and
Hortópita Turnover or pie stuffed milk soup, sweet or
with wild greens savoury
Kafterí Cheese dip with chili Tyrokafterí Cheese dip with chilli,
added different from
Kápari Pickled caper leaves kopanistí
Kopanistí, Pungent, fermented Tzatzíki Yogurt and cucumber dip
khtypití cheese purée Tzirosaláta cured mackerel dip
Krítamo Rock samphire
Vegetables
Angináres Artichokes Domátes Tomatoes
Angoúri Cucumber Fakés Lentils
Ánitho Dill Fasolákia French (green) beans
Bámies Okra, ladies’ fingers Horiátiki (saláta) Greek salad (with
Bouréki, Courgette/zucchini, olives, feta etc)
bourekákia potato and cheese pie Hórta Greens (usually wild),
Briám Ratatouille steamed
Contents Language
181
Kolokythákia Courgette/zucchini Radhíkia Wild chicory – a
Koukiá Broad beans common hórta
Maroúli Lettuce Rmzi, piláfi Rice (usually with
Melitzánes Aubergine/eggplant sáltsa – sauce)
LANGUAGE
imám slices baked with Rókka Rocket
onion, garlic and Saláta Salad
copious olive oil Spanáki Spinach
Patátes Potatoes Vlíta Notchweed – another
Piperiés Peppers common hórta
Pligoúri, Bulgur wheat Yígandes White haricot beans
pinigoúri
Fish and seafood

Astakós Aegean lobster Lakérdha Light-fleshed bonito,
Atherína Sand smelt marinated
Bakaliáros Cod or hake, usually Marídhes Picarel
latter Melanoúri Saddled bream
Barbóuni Red mullet Ménoula Sprat
Fangrí Common bream Mmdhia Mussels
Foúskes Uovo de mare (Italian), Okhtapódhi Octopus
violet (French); no Pandelís Corvina; also called
Menu reader
English equivalent for sykiós
this invertebrate. Platm Skate, ray
Galéos Dogfish, hound shark, Sardhélles Sardines
tope Sargós White bream
Garídhes Shrimp, prawns Seláhi Skate, ray
Gávros Mild anchovy Skáros Parrotfish
Glóssa Sole Skathári Black bream
Gónos, gonákia Any hatchling fish Skoumbrí Atlantic mackerel
Gópa Bogue Soupiá Cuttlefish
Kalamarákia Baby squid Spiníalo, Marinated foúskes
Kalamária Squid spinóalo
Karavídhes Crayfish Synagrídha Dentex
Kefalás Axillary bream Tsipoúra Gilt-head bream
Koliós Chub mackerel Vátos Skate, ray
Koutsomoúra Goatfish (small red Xifías Swordfish
mullet) Yermanós Leatherback
Kydhónia Cockles
Meat dishes
Arní Lamb lamb-mince
Bekrí mezé Pork chunks in red sauce casserole with
Biftéki Hamburger bechamel topping
Brizóla Pork or beef chop Païdhákia Rib chops, lamb or goat
Hirinó Pork Papoutsákia Stuffed aubergine/
Keftédhes Meatballs eggplant “shoes” –
Kokorétsi Liver/offal roulade, spit- like moussakás
roasted without bechamel
Kopsídha Lamb shoulder chops Pastítsio Macaroni pie baked
Kotópoulo Chicken with minced meat
Kounélli Rabbit Pastourmás Cured, highly spiced
Loukánika Spicy course-ground meat; traditionally
sausages camel, nowadays
Moskhári Veal beef
Moussakás Aubergine, potato and Patsás Tripe and trotter soup
Contents Language
182
Psaronéfri Pork tenderloin Sykóti Liver
medallions Tiganiá Meat chunks, usually
Salingária Garden snails pork, fried in its own
Soutzoukákia Minced meat fat
Menu reader LANGUAGE
rissoles/beef patties Tziyéro sarmás Lamb’s liver in cabbage

Spetzofáï Sausage and pepper Youvétsi Baked clay casserole of
stew meat and kritharáki
Stifádho Meat stew with tomato (short pasta)
and onions
Sweets and desserts
Baklavás Honey and nut pastry Loukoumádhes Dough fritters in honey

Bougátsa Salt or sweet cream pie syrup and sesame
served warm with seeds
sugar and cinammon Pagotó Ice cream
Galaktobóureko Custard pie Pastélli Sesame and honey bar
Halvás Sweetmeat of sesame Ravaní Spongecake, lightly
or semolina syruped
Karydhópita Walnut cake Ryzógalo Rice pudding
Kréma Custard
Fruit and nuts
Akhládhia Big pears Lemónia Lemons

Aktinídha Kiwis Míla Apples
Fistíkia Pistachio nuts Pepóni Melon
Fráoules Strawberries Portokália Oranges
Karpoúzi Watermelon Rodhákino Peach
Kerásia Cherries Smka Figs
Krystália Miniature pears Stafmlia Grapes
Kydhóni Quince
Cheese
Ayeladhinó Cow’s-milk cheese Katsikísio Goat cheese
Féta Salty, white cheese Kasséri Medium-sharp cheese
Graviéra Gruyère-type hard Myzíthra Sweet cream cheese
cheese Próvio Sheep’s cheese
Drinks
Alisfakiá Island sage tea kókkino/mávro red

Boukáli Bottle Limonádha Lemonade
Bmra Beer Metalikó neró Mineral water
Gála Milk Portokaládha Orangeade
Frappé Iced coffee Potíri Glass
Galakakáo Chocolate milk Stinyássas! Cheers!
Gazóza Generic fizzy drink Tsáï Tea
Kafés Coffee Tsáï vounoú “Mountain” (mainland
Krasí Wine sage) tea
áspro white
kokkinélli/rozé rosé
Contents Language
Index and small print
Contents Index and Small Print

184
A Rough Guide to Rough Guides
Athens DIRECTIONS is published by Rough Guides. The first Rough Guide to Greece, published
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185
Rough Guide Credits
Text editors: Fran Sandham Picture research: Jj Luck, Mark Thomas,
Layout: Diana Jarvis, Daniel May Sharon Martins
Photography: Paul Hellander Proofreader: Jan Wiltshire
Cartography: Draughtsman Ltd, Miles Irving, Production: John McKay
Katie Lloyd-Jones, Ed Wright Design: Henry Iles
The authors
INDEX
John Fisher co-authored the first edition of the Paul Hellander has been in and out of Greece for
Rough Guide to Greece and has been inextricably over thirty years, having graduated with a degree in
linked with Rough Guides ever since. He lives in Greek from Birmingham University. Imbued with an
South London with his wife and two young sons. indelible love of Hellenism, Paul has a particular
predilection for rocky islands, soaring mountains
and the sleepless Olympic city of Athens.
Acknowledgements
From John: Thanks are due to more people than From Paul: Many thanks to Angeliki Kanelli and
can be listed here, but above all to Dimitris Vana Kapsaski for sharing their Zografou home
Koutoulas, Calli Travlos and the staff of the GNTO in with me, as well as Marc Dubin and John Fisher for
London, Nick Edwards, Kate Donnelly, Yiannis support and valuable insight.
Mikhas and all at the prefecture of Pireás, Leonidas
Tsagaris, Lena Zolota; to everyone at Rough Guides,
especially Fran, Kate, Geoff, Ruth, Jj, Mark, Katie,
Miles, Diana and Dan; and as always to A and the
two Js for putting up with it for far too long.
Photo credits
All images © Rough Guides except the following:
p.2 The Parthenon © CORBIS p.34 Classical concert © Amet Jean Pierre/CORBIS
p.5 Mosaic of the Virgin Mary © Michael p.35 Street Musicians © Alamy
Freeman/CORBIS p.35 White Snake concert © James Sparshatt/
p.6 Neoclassical statue © Michael Freeman/CORBIS Pixida Athens Photographic Agency
p.10 Gold Mask of Agamemnon © Archivo p.35 Football © James Sparshatt /Pixida Athens
Iconografico, S.A./CORBIS Photographic Agency
p.11 Thissío street scene © Michele di p.36 Young people at a nightclub, Athens © Alamy
Giovanni/Pixida Athens Photographic Agency p.37 Reggae concert, Athens © Alamy
p.11 Parthenon: view to the Acropolis p.37 Young people at Athens nightclub © Alamy
© Neil Setchfield p.37 Athens nightclub © James Sparshatt /Pixida
p.12 Caryatids on Erectheion © Michele di Athens Photographic Agency
Giovanni/Pixida Athens Photographic Agency p.41 Icon of the Virgin Episkepis
p.13 Acropolis son et lumière © G Hellier/Robert Harding
© M.L. Sinibakdi/CORBIS p.41 Baptism © James Sparshatt /Pixida Athens
p.15 Museum of the Agora © James Sparshatt/ Photographic Agency
Pixida Athens Photographic Agency p.44 & p.129 Vouliagméni Beach © James
p.15 Temple of Athena Nike © Bettmann/CORBIS Sparshatt /Pixida Athens Photographic Agency
p.19 & p.125 Head of Christ as Pantocrator p.45 Soúnio Temple © John Fisher
© Elio Ciol/CORBIS p.48 Detail of chariot from Greek krater © Gustavo
p.19 Monastery of Dhafní Tomsich/CORBIS
© Archivo Iconografico, S.A./CORBIS p.117 Residential street in Pangráti © Michelle De
p.20 Gold Vaphio Cup © Gianni Dagli Orti/CORBIS Giovanni/Pixida
p.21 Poseidon © Vanni Archive/CORBIS p.118 The Olympic Stadium © Julia
p.21 Little jockey © Alamy Waterlow/CORBIS
p.21 Minoan fresco of two young men boxing p.120 The First Cemetery © Matt Barrett
© Gianni Dagli Orti/CORBIS p.125 Kessariani Monastery © Chris Hellier/CORBIS
p.23 Benáki museum © Alamy p.129 Shop front © James Sparshatt/Pixida
p.23 Female Cycladic Idol ©Gianni Dagli Orti/CORBIS p.134 Cape Soúnio from the sea © John Fisher
p.26 View from Acropolis towards Pláka © James p.144 Ruins of ancient city at Acrocorinth
Sparshatt /Pixida Athens Photographic Agency © Tim Thompson/CORBIS
p.29 Spring flowers © John Fisher

186
Index
A bars (by area):
Kolonáki and
100
Ionos
Kirki
MoBi
68
85
130
Lykavitós Hill 110 Oasis 116
accommodation 153 Mets, Pangráti Iy Oréa Ellás 77
accommodation map 156 and Koukáki 122 To Tristrato 68
Acrocorinth 144 Monastiráki and Psyrrí 79 Varsos 130
INDEX
Acropolis 51 Pláka 67 Ydria 77

Acropolis map 52 Suburban Athens 132 campsites 162
Acropolis Museum 57 Thissío, Gázi and Áno Cape Soúnio 133
Acropolis Museum, New 59 Petrálona 87 car rental 169
Agamemnon 147 bars Cathedral (Mitrópolis) 75
Agora 59 45º 87 Cave of Pan 137
airlines 168 Açai 122 Ceramics museum 74
airport 165 Action Folie 132 chemists 170
airport enquiries 169 After Dark 100
Children’s Museum 62
Alekos Island 110
American Express 169 cinema 169
Appaloosa 132
Anafiótika 65 City of Athens Museum 91
Astron 79
Ancient Agora 59 Baila 110 city wall 83
Angístri 148 Bee 79 clubs (by area):
Áno Petrálona 80 Brettos 67 Exárhia and Neápoli 100
Áno Petrálona map 81 City 111 Kolonáki and
Aráhova 142 Fairy Tale 100 Lykavitós Hill 111
Archeological Museum, Koukles 122 Monastiráki and Psyrrí 79
National 96 L.A. Rock 100 Suburban Athens 132
Archeological Museum, Recital 100 Thissío, Gázi and Áno
Marathon 135 Sofa Café 132 Petrálona 87
archeological sites Soul Garden 79 clubs
Acropolis 51 Stavlos 87 Blaze-T 79
Agora 59 Sussex Inn 132 Café Alu 111
Corinth 144 Tesseres Epohes 132 Camel Club 87
Delphi 141 The Guys 122 Cone 87
Eleusis 137 beaches 169 Decadence 100
Epidauros 144 Benáki Museum 105 Floga 87
Karameikos 83 bureaux de change 169 Fournos 101
Marathon 135 Intriga 101
buses 167
Mycenae 146 Memphis 111
Byzantine and Christian Mommy 111
Ramnous 136 Museum 106
Roman Forum 70 New York Summer 132
Soúnio 133 Raj Club 87
Sidera Fire Club 132
South Slope
Tiryns
51
Temple of Olympian Zeus 116
146
C Sodade
Studio 54
Venue
87
132
132
Vravróna 136
Ardhittós Hill 120 cafés (by area): Vibe 79
Monastiráki and Psyrrí 77 Wunderbar 101
Areopagus 59
Pláka 67 consulates 169
Asklepion 58 Suburban Athens 129 Corinth 144
Asklepion, Epidauros 145 Sjndagma and around 116 currency 170
Athena Nike, Temple of 55 Thissío, Gázi and Áno
Athinaïs 84 Petrálona 85
Attalos, Stoa of 60
Attica
Attica map
133
134
cafés
Ammonites Café-
Restaurant 129
D
Ayía Ekateríni Church 65 Antica Cioccalateria 77
dance 169
Áyii Apóstoli 60 Athinaion Politeia 85
Bread Deli 77 day-trips maps 134, 140
Áyios Yeóryios 104
Café Kornarou 77 Dhelfí 141
Déja Vu Lifestyle Café 130 Delphi 141
Delphi map 143
B Dhioskouri
Everest
Floral Art Café
67
116
77
Delphic Oracle 142
Demeter, Sanctuary of 137
Galaktopolio Iy Amalthea 68 Dhafní Monastery 123
banks 169 O Glykis 68 Dopnysos, Theatre of 57

187
disabled travellers 169
drink 182 H information office
Internet
168
170
Hadrian’s Arch 115

E Hadrian’s Library
Hellenic Festival
74
170
J
Herodes Atticus Theatre 58
Égina 147 Hill of the Nymphs 82 Jewish Museum
Elefsína 137 Hill of the Pnyx 82 of Greece 64
Eleftherios Venizelos
INDEX
history, Roman 71
Airport 165 history, Classical 54
Eleusis
Elgin Marbles
embassies
137
56
169
hostels
Hotel Grande Bretagne
162
112
K
hotels
emergency phone Achilleas 158 Kalimármaro 119
numbers 170 Acropole 161 Kanellopoulou Museum 65
Epidauros 144 Acropolis House 155 Kapnikaréa 75
Erectheion 56 Acropolis Select 160 Kavoúri 128
Exárhia 95 Acropolis View 160 Kerameikos 83
Exárhia map 96 Adonis 158 Kessarianí monastery 125
The Alassia 159 Kifissiá map 126
Arethusa 160 Kifissiá 126
F Art Gallery
Athenian Callirhoe
160
Astir Palace Vouliagmeni 161
160
Klistón monastery
Kolonáki
Kolonáki map
137
103
103
ferries 165, 170 Athens Cypria 158 Koukáki 117
Attalos 159
festivals 170 Koukáki map 118
Byron 158
Fethiye Tzami 72 Cecil 159
film 169 Delfini 161
Filopáppou Hill
First Cemetery
flea markets
82
120
74, 128
Dorian Inn
Erechthion
Evropi
159
159
159
L
flower market 90 Exarchion 159 language 173
Folk Art and Tradition, Feron 159 Lavrio 134
Centre of 63 Grande Bretagne 160 Liákoura, Mount 143
food 180 Hermes 158 Lófos tou Stréfi 98
football 170 Hostel Aphrodite 159 Loútsa 135
Forum, Roman 70 John’s Place 158 Lykavitós Hill 102, 104
fruit and vegetable bazaar 90 Kefalari Suites 161 Lykavitós Hill map 102
funicular 104 Kimon 158 Lysikratos, Monument of 64
Kouros 158
Marble House 161
Mistral 161
G Museum Best Western 159
Nefeli 158
M
Orion and Dryades 160
Gaia Centre 126 Pella Inn 158 mail 170
Gázi 80 Phaedra 158 Marathon 135
Gázi map 81 Philippos 161 Marathónas 135
Glyfádha 128 St George Lycabettus 160 Maria Callas museum 84
Goulandhrís Museum of Stratos Vassilikos 160 markets 74, 88, 90, 170
Cycladic and Ancient Student’s Inn 158 Medresse 72
Greek Art 106 Tempi 158 menu reader 180
Goulandhrís Natural History Thisseus Hostel 159 metro 166
Museum 126 Thission 159 Mets 117
Villa Olympia 161
Greek Folk Art, Mets map 118
Zinon 159
Museum of 61 Mitrópolis 75
Greek Folk Art: Man and mobile phones 171
Tools, Museum of 66 Monastiráki 70
Greek language
Greek National Parliament
173 I Monastiráki flea market 74
Monastiráki map 72
building 114 money 170
Ídhra 149
Mound of the Plataians 135
Ilisós river 120
Mount Immitós 125
Immitós, Mount 125
Mount Liákoura 143

188
Mount Parnassós 143 Parafono 101 Pireás map 127
Mount Párnitha 137 Pinakothíki 79 Pláka 61
movies 169 Rebetikí Istoría 101 Pláka map 62
museums Rodon 94 Platía Kolonakíou 104
Acropolis Museum 57 Stoa Athanaton 94 Platía Mitropóleos 75
Acropolis Museum, New 59 Stravos tou Notou 122 Platía Monastirakíou 70
Archeological Museum Taximi 101
Platía Omonías 90
(Marathon) 135 To Baraki tou Vassili 101
Tsai stin Sahara 111
Platía Omonías area map 89
Benáki Museum 105 Platía Syndágmatos 112
Byzantine and Christian Mycenae 146
Pnyx 82
INDEX
Museum 106 Mysteries of Eleusis 138

Pompeion 83
Centre of Folk Art and
Tradition 63
Póros 148
Pórto Ráfti 135
Children’s Museum
City of Athens Museum 91
Frissiras Museum
62
62
N Poseidon, Temple of
post
133
170
Gaia Centre 126 Náfplio 145 Presidential Palace 114
Goulandhrís Museum of National Art Gallery and Propylaia 53
Cycladic and Ancient
Aléxandros Soútzos Psyrrí 70
Greek Art 106 Psyrrí map 72
Museum 107
Goulandhrís Natural History public holidays 171
Museum 126 National Archeological
Museum 96 public transport 166
Greek Folk Art 61
Greek Folk Art: Ceramics National Gardens 114
National Historical
Collection
Greek Folk Art: Man
and Tools
74
66
Museum
Néa Mákri
90
135
R
Greek Popular Musical Neápoli 95
Instruments 73 Neápoli map 96 Rafína 135
Jewish Museum New Acropolis Museum 59 Ramnous 136
of Greece 64 Numismatic Museum 91 restaurants
Kanellopoulou Museum 65 47 Maritsa’s 110
Maria Callas Museum 84 Aenaon 121
Agora 150
National Art Gallery and
Alexandros Soútzos
Museum 107
O Agrio Rodho
Aigli Restaurant Bar
Akhinós
109
116
130
National Historical
Museum 90 Olympian Zeus, Akriogiali 138
Numismatic Museum 91 Temple of 116 Akti 130
Pierídhes Museum of Olympic Stadium, Old 119 Al Mawal 130
Ancient Cypriot Art 85 Omónia Square 90 Ta Alonia 150
Pinakothiki Kouvoutsaki 127 Omónia Square area map 89 Alexandria 99
Pireás Archeological opening hours 170 Alexandra 98
Museum 128 Andonis 150
War Museum 107 Apanemia 121
music, live (by area):
Kolonáki and
101 P Athinaïkon
I Avli tou Antoni
I Avra
92
138
138
Lykavitós Hill 111 Baïraktaris 77
Panathenaic Stadium 119 Bar Guru Bar 93
Mets, Pangráti
Panathenaic Way 54 Barba Yannis 99
and Koukáki 122
Pangráti 117 Barchera 78
Monastiráki and Psyrrí 79
Platía Omonías Pangráti map 118 Barfly 85
and around 94 Parnassós, Mount 143 Beer Garden Ritterburg 130
music, live Párnitha, Mount 137 Buffalo Bill 130
An Club 101 Parthenon 55 Café Abysinia 78
Boemissa 101 Parthenon marbles 56 Cellier le Bistrot 93
Café Asante 122 Pedhío tou Áreos 98 Central 109
Diavolos Musiki Spiti 122 pharmacies 171 Cilentio 109
Elatos 94 phones 171 Damingos
Enallax 101 (Ta Bakaliarakia) 68
Phyle 137
Half-Note 122 Daphne’s 68
Pierídhes Museum of Ancient
Hi-Hat Café 111 Dhimokritos 109
Cypriot Art 85 Dirty Ginger 85
Kriti 111 Pinakothiki Kouvoutsaki 127
La Joya 111 Dirty Str-eat 85
Pireás 127 Dos Hermanos 130
Lykavitós Theatre 111
Pireás Archeological Eden 68
Mo Better 101
Museum 128 Edodi 121
Palenque 111

189
En Etei 1929 150 Taverna tou Psyrrí 78 Annita Patrikiadhou 77
Epikouros 150 Rodhia 110 Apriati 76
Epistrofi Stin Ithaki 99 Rombolo 139 Bachar 91
Exostrefis 99 Rooms 110 Beauty Works 107
Farangi 138 Rozalia 100 Berto Lucci 107
Filippou 110 Sale & Pepe 110 Bettina 107
Fourtouna 110 Skholiarhio 69 The Book Nest 92
Furin Kazan 78 Skoufias 86 Carouzos 108
Iy Gonia 99 Ta Sokakia tou Thiakou 86 Central Prince Oliver 129
Gotzila 78 Sotis 131 Christos Kostarelos 108
INDEX
To Háni 68 Spondi 122 The Cigar 108
Hard Rock Cafe 130 Sta Kala Kathoumena 139 Cine Paris 66
Ideal 93 Stavlos 86 Compendium 67
Ikio 110 To Steki 151 Cravaterie Nazionali 108
Ikonomou 85 To Steki tis Xanthis 100 Dimitris Vasiliou 85
Iy Ipeiros 78 To Steki tou Ilia 86 Eleftheroudakis 67, 92
Interni 85 I Taverna tou Stelara 151 Ellinko Spiti 67
Ioakeim 138 Syrtaki 139 Enny di Monaco 108
Island 130 Taÿgetos 93 Ensayar 129
Iy Stoa Tou Vangeli 78 TGI Fridays 131 Fokas 76
Jimmy and the Fish 131 Thalatta 86 Fresh Line 108
K’Askimopapo 86 O Thanasis 78 Frissiras Museum Shop 67
Kakanarakis 150 O Themistoklis 122 Galerie Zamboulaki 108
Kali Kardia 139 Time 131 Gallé 129
Kalimarmaron 121 To Voliótiko 1911 132 Giorgos Eleftheriadis 108
To Kalyvi 121 Trata 131 Glou Exclusive 129
Karathanasis 150 Tria Adhelfia 139 Gold Rose 76
Karavitis 121 Vakchos 151 Gucci 108
Karavolos 150 Vangelis 94 Hondos Centre 92
Katsarina 131 Vasilis 151 Iy Folia tou Vivliou 92
Kavouri 139 Vincenzo 132 Kaloyirou 129
Khrysa 86 Votanikos 86 Kanari 5 108
To Kioupi 110 Vrakha 139 Kendro Ellinikis Paradosis 76
Iy Klimataria 68 Vyrinis 122 Lalaounis 92
Klimataria 93 Vyzandino 69 Lambropoulos 92
To Koutouki 86 Xanthippi 122 Li-La-Lou 129
Iy Lefka 99 Xeri Elia 151 Museum of Greek Popular
Lefteris 93 Xypolitos 139 Musical Instruments 76
Taverna Leonides 150 Yambeia 151 National Welfare
Mamacas 86 Yeitoniko 151 Organization 76
Mandhra 78 Yiandes 100 Nikos Mavropoulos 76
Mandraki 150 Yoga Bala 79 Oikos 108
Masa 131 Zei 86 Petai Petai 108
Mayemenos Avlos 121 Zidhoron 79 Petridis 109
Moita 150 Zjthos 79 Preview 129
To Monastiri 93 Roman Forum 70 Road Editions 92
Monippo 131 Spyros Aravandinos 67
Mykinaiko 150 Stavros Melissinos 76
O Nafti
Nargis
Nefeli
150
93
69
S Studio Kostas Sokaras
This ‘n’ That
To Paleopoleion
77
109
108
Oasis 151 Tribos 67
Sanctuary of Demeter 137
Iy Orea Mykonos 131 Xylouris 92
Pak Indian 93 shops (by area): Yiannis Samouelian 77
Iy Palea Skala 78 Exárhia and Neápoli 98
Skhiniás 135
Palea Taverna tou Psarra 69 Kolonáki and
Lykavitós Hill 107
skiing 171
Palio Tetradhio 69 smoking 171
Panagiota 151 Monastiráki and Psyrrí 76
Pláka 66 Soúnio 133
Taverna Parnassos 151 Stoa of Attalos 60
O Pinaleon 99 Platía Omonías
and around 91 Stoa of Eumenes 58
Pinelopi kai Mnistires 121
Suburban Athens 129 Stoa of the Bears 136
O Platanos 69
Platanos 151 Thissío, Gázi and Áno Stréfis Hill 98
Taverna Platía Iróon 78 Petrálona 85 Suburban Athens map 124
Psaropoula-Bibikos 139 shops Sjndagma 112
Psarotaverna 2morrow 76 Sjndagma map 113
Paradhosiako 139 7+7 76
Psistaria Ambrosia 121 Action Records 98
Amorgos 66

190
T tickets
time
Tiryns
166
171
146
Vouliagméni
Vravróna
128
136
taxis 167 tourist office 168

Tekhnópolis
telephones
84
171
tours
Tower of the Winds
transport
171
71
166
W
Temple of Afaia, Égina 148
Temple of Athena Nike 55 Treasury of Atreus 147 War Museum 107
Temple of Olympian trolley buses 167
Turkish Baths 66
INDEX
Zeus 116
Temple of Poseidon
theatre
133
171
Tjmvos Marathóna 135
Z
Theatre of Dionysos 57
Theatre of Epidauros
Theatre of Herodes
144
V Záppio 115
Atticus 58
Thissío 80 Várkiza 128
Thissío map 81 Voulí 114

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Terminus Nea Ionia
Doukissis
Interchange Pefkakia Plakentias
Perissos Halandri
under construction
Ano Patissia Ay. Paraskevi
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Attiki Katehaki
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Egaleo Ambelokipi
Ay. Savas
Metaxourghio Megaro
Geoponiki Omonia Moussikis
Votanikos
un
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de
rc
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Panepistimio
Monastiraki
Thissio Syndagma
Petralona
Tavros Akropoli
Kalithea
Moschato Syngrou-Fix
Pireas Faliro
Neos Kosmos
Ay. Ioannis
Dhafni
Alexandrous Penagoulis
under construction
Ilioupoli
Argyroupoli
Elliniko
East Airport
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Athens

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

John Fisher and

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

Tips for reading this e-book

Places 49 Index 183

In most minds, Athens is a city that happened two-

For many, the stunning

neighbourhoods: in partic- There are spectacular

The Acropolis remains the city’s

second-century Roman Herodes

Acropolis Tower of the Winds

The Parthenon Marbles

Acropolis son et lumière

Temple of Athena Nike

Tower of the Winds

The Roman Forum

Odeion of Herodes Atticus

The Vafio Cup

The Little Jockey of

Museum of Greek Popular

Museum of Greek Folk Art

The Voulí Platía Sondagmatos

Lófos tou Stréfi

The National Gardens

need to visit during

surprised if the sound

Monastiráki flea market

The fish market

Póros Temple of Afaia, Égina

PLACES The Acropolis

Acropolis tickets and opening times

Folk Art: Man & Tools TH the Winds

DH Theatre of Sanctuary Acropolis

N Museum Site Akropoli

PLACES The Acropolis

Polygnotus.The wing to the The Panathenaic Way

PLACES The Acropolis

an ivory gorgon death’s-head on length to width, width to

PLACES The Acropolis

where each Greek citizen would ances of music and Classical

PLACES The Acropolis

Thisseion (the exploits of reconstruction of the stoa was

DHIO SKOU RON

0 100 m R O V Museum Site

Children’s Museum Permanent exhibits include

Centre of Folk of Greece

Paris Tribos Frissiras

(Ta Bakaliarakia) 15 Nefeli 5

Daphne’s 14 Palea Taverna Tou Psarra 7

Akropoli Eden 4 O Platanos 1

M Galaktopolio Iy Amalthea 10 Skholiarhio 8

billed as Greece’s only museum Rego among them – as well as

artefacts. Appropriately, it rooms, with plenty of

The Monument of Lysikratos

Ayía Ekateríni Church

icons first grab your attention, particularly beautiful. The

street level there’s a small shop

crowd. It has a mouthwatering from the Clintons through half of

Monastiráki and Psyrrí

theless plenty of sights and extensive opportunities for

The traffic-free upper half of Roman Forum

PLACES Monastiráki and Psyrrí