Making a hollow ring - Fretz Design, Goldsmiths, Jewelry, Smithing Tools and Met...

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MAKING A HOLLOW RING

These four stakes (R-1,R-2,R-3 and F-8) are designed to make hollow rings. They are also useful for general forming and large bezel work. By choosing different stakes, a single blank as it is formed, will take on many different shapes. The metal conforms to the curve of the stake as the hammer compresses the metal against it.

The first step in designing a hollow ring is to make a paper pattern. It is a good idea to make the metal inner rim first as this determines the ring size. Then make the pattern fit over this band. The paper pattern allows the craftsperson see the

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shape in 3-D if the ends are taped together. This pattern can be fixed to the sheet metal with rubber cement or two way tape before cutting with a jewelers saw and a 2/0 blade. Make a metal template if the design is to be repeated often.

The ring blank is bent into a U shape with round pliers and one set of tabs bent to meet. It is much easier to do one side at a time. Doing both together makes it a balancing act.

File the ends to be soldered true so the seam will be tight. Flattening and getting a perfect fit is easy if the ends are very lightly hammered over a Rolled Edge Domed Bezel Stake (B-6 Stake) . Two bench mounted holders save changing time on projects requiring multiple stakes.

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Use a hard solder for the first seams. It is important to use enough solder so this seam does not have to be resoldered. Hard solder works best if done once. Flip over and repeat the forming and soldering of the other side. Hammer either side of the solder joint on the same stake again so the seam domes up slightly. It is important not to hit the solder. Use a plastic or rawhide hammer to be safe. The slightly domed solder seam is easier to clean up. File with a #2 cut flat file. Follow up with 320 emery cloth or paper to leave a relatively smooth surface.

Begin hammering the top section of the ring over a Tapered Rounded Raising Stake (R-2) or if the ring is big, a Rounded Raising Stake (R-3). The ring will become round if the ring is rotated around the stake while hammering. Plannish the low spots to bring them up. This seems backwards, but because the metal has nowhere to go after striking the stake, the stretched metal pops up. The smoothing of the metal against a stake with repetitious hammer blows is called plannishing.

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The ring shank or any part of the ring can be domed on a Horn Stake (F-8). This is done by leaving a space between the metal and the stake and using the rounded side of the plannishing hammer to move the metal down to the stake without stretching it. This is raising and does not thin the metal like plannishing. The doming of the shank reduces the ring size and this can be helpful getting the correct size. After the desired form is roughed out, the hammer is flipped over and the flat side is used to plannish the piece smooth.

Stamp the hallmarks on the inner band at this stage as stamping later becomes impossible. Slide the inner band inside the ring shell.

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The first step in designing a hollow ring is to make a paper pattern. It is a good idea to make the metal inner rim first as this determines the ring size. Then make the pattern fit over this band. The paper pattern allows the

Tap both ends of the inner band with a slightly larger dapping punch to get a very tight fit. This will make the solder seams virtually invisible.

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A top unit or bezel is made with a slight taper. The taper is useful because the top unit will get tighter as it moves into position. If the side walls of the top bezel are parallel, you only have one chance at a good fit.

A vent hole should be drilled before soldering the inner ring and top to the ring blank. It is important to do this as part of a seam will not close, or worse, you could have the piece explode.

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Chrysoprase rough was then cut to fit with a slight bevel. Set by chasing and then ground and polished flush with the rings top. The inner band is trimmed off with a 2/0 jewelers saw blade and the whole ring filed flush. First 320, then 600 emery cloths were used to smooth the surface. The first buffing compound was bobbing on a wool sewn buff and this was followed by white diamond on a cotton buff. PRICE LIST - BEZEL INSTRUCTIONS - TRICKS FOR HOLLOW RINGS HOME PAGE - TOOLS PAGE - H-1 STAKE HOLDER INSTALLATION gold@fretzgoldsmiths.com FRETZ DESIGN, LLC 20 Elm Street P.O. Box 1010 Bucksport, Maine 04416 207-469-2700

2006 Fretz Design

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